Photo by Jochen Westermann

You float down the Nam Ou, a large, clear river flowing through the tropical mountains of northern Lao PDR.

A light breeze cools your face and tranquility resonates in your bones. The holy city of Luang Prabang was magical, but now you are leaving the luxury hotels and package tourists behind, venturing deeper into the heart of Indochina.

Village children play by the edge of the water and wave and smile as you slowly float by. Other villagers wade in the river, casting silver fishing nets.

Your boat catches sand by a landing dock and a shocking sound of silence overwhelms you: no motorbikes, no cars - not a trace of man-made clatter.

Welcome to the village of Muang Ngoi Neua.

Orientation

photo by Jom Manilat

Muang Ngoi Neua is a day’s boat ride north of Luang Prabang. The riverside village consists of a single path that is only 100 meters long. The word ‘path’ must be used instead of ‘street’ because there are no vehicles or bicycles in the village.

There is generator powered electricity for a few hours in the evening, but even then it’s used sparingly. It’s precisely this lack of modern technology that gives Muang Ngoi Neua its charm and appeal.

What to do without electricity? Some travelers head straight into the jungle to follow hiking paths that snake between the mountains, but many others crash into their hammocks and lounge away the days. Muang Ngoi Neua exemplifies the word “chill”.

Laid-back Locals

The people of Lao are widely regarded as some of the most friendly and easy-going people in the world, and Muang Ngoi Neua locals are even friendlier than folks in the larger towns.

They are accustomed to hosting travelers, but are still eager to chat you up over a bottle of Beerlao or shots of lao lao (sticky rice whiskey). Most locals are enthusiastic about practicing their English, while others just pass time Lao-style: “take it easy, no problems, same same.”

Sights and Activities

photo by Jochen Westermann

Two days is plenty of time to enjoy the village and explore its surroundings, but many travelers fall in love with the tranquility of Muang Ngoi Neua and stay for weeks.

An excellent hiking path originates on the south side of the village. Follow the path by the school and after about 5km you’ll come across Tham Kang (Middle Cave) and Tham Pha Kaeo (Holy Image Cave). The caves extend deep into the rocks, so bring a torch and watch your head.

For the more adventurous, a narrowing hiking path continues deep into unsettled wilderness and winds between soaring mountains. The path splits at least twice, so be sure to get a map from the village, bring a compass, or hire a local guide if you plan on venturing more than 5km past the caves.

If you’re interested in the 130 foot waterfalls of Tat Mok and the swimming holes they crash into, you’ll need to find a local guide with a boat. Fear not, however, as the guides will find you! It’s a half-day journey to go and return as it requires a short boat ride and a hike into the wilderness to the falls.

Haggling with your guide is expected, but 50,000 Kip (about $5) per person is a typical fee. Don’t forget your swimming trunks! Locals and guesthouse owners are happy to arrange other various river activities like tubing, kayaking, and fishing – simply ask and they’ll set you up.

Lao Lao and Malevolent Roosters

One lazy afternoon a local teen convinced me to buy a bottle of lao lao for 10,000 Kip (~$1), which I considered a pretty good deal. He then led me over to his family’s shop and proceeded to dunk a used water bottle into a rusting 30-gallon vat of moonshine.

“Hum,” I mused, “this can’t be good.” Later that night I presented my bounty to a crowd of fellow travelers and locals huddling around a bonfire and was surprised to find that my lao lao was actually better than the labeled glass bottle variety.

Please be forewarned: even good lao lao is not very good. It’s certainly a matter of opinion, but most Westerners only drink it because it’s local and does the trick – certainly not for the taste.

Muang Ngoi Neua rejects vehicles and technology in favor of naked babies and exceptionally loud roosters. The roosters sound like they could raise the dead. Be prepared for the bird alarm clock to sound at 4 am and for the choir to last until noon. People go to bed early, get up early with the roosters, fantasize about turned the birds into chicken soup, and then take an afternoon siesta.

Life in Muang Ngoi Neua is relaxed, easy-going, and very Lao.

Arriving and Departing

photo by Yabbox

Slow boats up and down the Nam Ou are becoming less frequent as Lao roadways are improving and regular buses become more frequent. Slow boats still run to and from Muang Ngoi Neua, however, and the scenery makes it worth your while to haggle with boat drivers.

If coming from the south, arrange for a boat from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw. Slow boats have sporadic schedules that are subject to demand, so you might need to make a few trips to the dock before finding a boat.

Chartering a boat tends to cost around 1 Million Kip (~$100) and comfortably holds 10 people, so it’s possible to bargain for 10,000 Kip (~$10) per person. If the slow boats do not gather enough riders to travel, less scenic buses regularly travel from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw. Once in Nong Khiaw, regular boats go to Muang Ngoi Neua for 20,000 Kip (~$2) and take about an hour.

If coming from the north, arrange for a boat from Muang Khua to Muang Ngoi Neua or Nong Khiaw (the driver will drop you off at Muang Ngoi Neua if the boat continues to Nong Khiaw).

Once again, departure times from Muang Khua depend on demand. There’s generally one or two each morning and it’s sometimes possible to charter a boat and front the 1 Million Kip (~$100). Waiting for a full boat, however, gets the price down to 10,000 Kip (~$10) per person. The journey from Muang Khua to Muang Ngoi Neua takes about 7 hours.

Guesthouses & Restaurants

There’s no shortage of guesthouses along the village strip. Yellow signs with red lettering advertise most of the guesthouses and restaurants. Standard accommodation is a bungalow with hammock and outside bathroom for ~30,000 Kip (~$3) per night. There are some guesthouses that offer rooms with private bathroom, but no electricity means no A/C, fans, or hot showers.

Many guesthouses have attached restaurants and balconies that overlook the river.

Restaurants serve local Lao food along with local interpretations of Western food. Laap is an excellent Lao dish served everywhere.

Look for a sign towards the end of the main stretch that says “BBQ Fish” with an arrow pointing to the right and you’ve found my favorite eating and bonfire stomping grounds. May is the plump old lady who runs the place and she’ll take care of you like one of her own. Definitely try the fish: caught that day a mere 20 feet away from your plate.

Drugs, Cash, and the Internet

Drugs are illegal in Laos. That said, teenage locals in Muang Ngoi Neua may offer to sell you marijuana and you’ll likely see more than one backpacker with a joint. The village is nothing close to the free-wheeling drug scene of Vang Vieng, but soft drugs are common place.

As far as cash is concerned, there are no ATMs, banks, or Western Union stations. Most guesthouses will accept US dollars and a few may be persuaded to accept Thai Baht, but they’ll quote poor exchange rates for their troubles. You’re best off stocking up with Kip before arriving.

At the top of the boat landing stairs is a small building with a sign that proclaims the existence of “Internet!” in Muang Ngoi Neua. Don’t be frightened, however, because I’m not convinced it really works. Posted hours of internet operation are 5pm-6pm, but separate day visits at 5:05pm and 5:30pm revealed locked doors, lights off, and no sign of a generator. Write any necessary emails before departing for the village.

Happy Travels!

Muang Ngoi Neua is short on luxury, but rich in character, Lao culture and roosters. This sleepy little village has certainly been discovered by your fellow backpackers, but it’s off the beaten track and provides a revitalizing destination for jungle treks, swimming and just chilling out and watching the river flow by.

Community Connection!

The Gibbon Experience is hands-down the best eco-tourism experience in Lao. Check out the article “The Gibbon Experience” in Matador’s Traverse magazine, or Punchy’s blog about his zip-line experience in the canopy jungle.

Ever wonder what writing for a guidebook is like? Matador member LornaNorth’s blog “Laos - Working As A Rough Guide Writer” offers a behind the scenes picture of guidebook research in SE Asia.

Also check out the uncensored version of an article MatadorTrips.com editor Tim Patterson published in the San Francisco Chronicle - Lusty Luang Prabang.

The Matador Team tries to publish the most inspiring free, online travel guides in the world.

But we’re hardly the only travel writers scouring the planet for truly special places - and posting the best discoveries online.

To celebrate this wealth of free travel resources, each week MatadorTrips will spotlight the best travel guides we find on the Internet, themed to a specific destination.

“Best Trips” is an echo of our sister publication BraveNewTraveler’s popular Best of the Week.

Open your imagination. Get inspired.

“More Discerning Puntas”

For chill beaches, leave Buenos Aires for Uruguay - and don’t stop at Punta del Este.

Thanks to my friend Kat for pointing me to the excellent travel section in the Guardian, the most sensible of U.K. newspapers.

Wonder of wonders, the Guardian recently ran a top-notch feature on the quiet coast of Uruguay, including a mention of the beach hostel where I’m typing right now.

Also check out my latest blog from Punta del Diablo, and Jaunted.com editor Paul Brady’s pick for best beach bar and best empanada on the Uruguayan coast.

“Iguazu Falls By Moonlight”

How to make Argentina’s most romantic destination even sultrier? Just add moonlight.

One of the very first guides published on MatadorTrips was to Iguazu Falls, described by Lucia as the most romantic destination in Argentina.

Now, our friends at Argentina’s Travel Guide report that it’s possible to visit the falls by moonlight for 4 days during the full moon.

Never heard of Iguazu? ATG has a good primer.

“Argentine Nights”

Tango, Vino…and Controversy!

We took a lot of harsh criticism for the “Guide To Getting Laid In Buenos Aires” over at MatadorNights. I don’t feel too bad though, because even the New York Times failed to please the Argentine blogosphere with their recent feature on ex-pat bohemians in Buenos Aires.

And at least we aren’t being accused of stealing material…

Have you come across any free online travel resources for Argentina or Uruguay? Please leave a comment below!

Photo by Surfing Byron Bay

Byron Bay, New South Wales, Australia, is an ideal destination for newbie surfers. Surrounded by ocean and outstanding waves, Byron’s all-year-round warm climate and exceptionally friendly locals make learning to surf safe, comfortable and fun.

Despite the town’s thriving tourism industry, laws preventing over-development have helped Byron Bay maintain its breathtaking natural beauty. The locals are all extremely environmentally aware, and locally made environmentally friendly and organic produce are abundant.

Orientation

photo by Angie Takanami

Getting to Byron is very easy from either Brisbane International Airport or the Gold Coast’s Coolangatta Domestic Airport. From either airport Byron-bound shuttle buses take you right into the town center.

Finding a place to stay in Byron is equally easy. There are many backpacker’s resorts, motels, hotels and apartments available.

Remember that Byron Bay is a popular destination, so it’s always important to book in advance. Most of the accommodation is conveniently located adjacent to the main street, which is close to the beaches.

For those who want a little bit more privacy, there is also a wide range of accommodation available just out of town, among the shrubs and along the beaches.

Surf School

Byron Bay offers a range of surf breaks for all levels and conditions. Surf lessons with a registered school are the best way to get to know the basics of catching a wave.

photo by Angie Takanami

For expert coaching and unparalleled friendliness, Surfing Byron Bay is my top recommendation.

You don’t need any equipment; wetsuits/rash vests and beginner’s surfboards are all provided. Just take a big smile and you will have the time of your life!

Surfing Byron Bay boasts a wide range of learn-to-surf programs, from half day, full day, 2, 3 and 5-day programs, private lessons, women’s only lessons, group lessons, kids lessons, surf safaris and even ongoing private or small group coaching. All lessons are conducted by expert coaches in safe environments.

The school’s office is located right in the middle of town, next to the bus stop on Johnson Street. Coaches take you to the beach in one of the school’s vans.

You learn how to surf, but will also learn a lot about water safety, rips and currents, so that once your lessons are over you’ll be well qualified to get out and catch some waves on your own!

Surfing is by no means an easy sport, but by starting off with expert instruction in one of the world’s most pristine beach towns, you will be catching waves in no time. Soon you’ll find yourself planning all your future journeys to surf destinations.

Nightlife

By night, all the Byron Bay locals gather at the pubs and bars to knock back a few pints and chat about the day’s surf conditions. I encourage you to get to know the locals, and the best way to do so is to go out and drink with them!

As for food, you can find everything from organic wood oven pizza to sushi, kebabs and Thai food.

Other Activities

There are a lot of other adventure sport offerings in Byron, such as scuba diving off Julian Rocks, kayaking with dolphins, whale watching, and even skydiving over the cape. Tours can be booked at one of the many travel agents along Johnson Street.

I also suggest a day trip out to the stoner paradise village of Nimbin to blow your mind at the Marijuana Museum, or get captured on live web-cam at the hemp bar, where beer is not allowed

Enjoy the Waves!

Byron Bay is truly one of Australia’s most special places. When I have time off, it’s the first place I think of for a surfing vacation.

For further information regarding surf lessons with Surfing Byron Bay, visit their website or feel free to contact me for more details.

Community Connection!

There are a lot of surfers in the Matador lineup.

Rhys is a native Australian who knows some good waves in Vietnam. Surfergrl lists Australia as her top favorite place.

HawaiiBren can point you to the Top 10 South Shore Spots For Surfer Chicks, and over at the traveler’s notebook the inimitable Spencer Klein shares the Top 10 Surf Spots (For Mortals) In Hawaii.

Also check out whereisbowdo?’s definitive list of the top 10 beaches in Australia.

Not a Matador member yet? Sign up for free by clicking here.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

High on a windswept hilltop in Cambodia’s Dangrek range near the Thai border, the stone windows of Preah Vihear temple have opened on the same impressive view for almost a thousand years.

Green plains 1500 ft below stretch to the horizon, and a few faint dirt roads extend in impossibly straight lines before vanishing behind a curtain of humid, blue haze.

A few anachronistic pieces of rusting Khmer Rouge artillery dot the temple grounds, serving as a reminder that the hilltop hasn’t had an entirely peaceful history.

Preah Vihear’s remoteness keeps the throngs of Angkor Wat tourists away, and if you’re ready to brave Cambodia’s notoriously bad roads on the back of a battered dirtbike you’re likely to score a hilltop temple sunrise all to yourself.

Solitude never comes easy, though. Expect to end each day by unclenching your cramped hands from the bike’s luggage rack, rattled to the core by some of the roughest roads around and covered from head to toe in fine Cambodian dust.

Adventure and hardship go hand in hand, right?

Coming From Thailand

Full disclosure - Preah Vihear is accessible without a visa from the Thai town of Si Saket on a paved highway. The border at Preah Vihear isn’t a true entry point, though. You’ll be allowed to enter the temple for a few hours to look around, but you’ll have to leave the same way you came.

Also, only visitors from the Cambodian side will catch the sunrise since the border doesn’t open until mid-morning. Cambodia needs your dollars far more than it’s neighbor to the west, and the dirtbike pilgrimage from Siem Reap is an unforgettable adventure.

The Ride

Whoever coined the term ‘dancing roads’ to describe Cambodia’s unmaintained thoroughfares was a master euphemist.

Backpackers have supposedly made it to Preah Vihear via moped, but ruts a foot deep or more swallow tires to their axles and destroy shock absorbers.

There’s a fine line between adventurous and crazy: don’t attempt this trip on anything less than a dirtbike (or a 4×4 if you have a bigger group).

photo by Andris Bjornson

Long days of riding will exhaust you, and it just takes one bad move to send you flying over the handlebars.

With the nearest medical facilities hundreds of kilometers away in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, this is best avoided.

Unless you’re an experienced rider, hire a driver who knows what he’s doing. Whatever you do, don’t attempt this trip in the rainy season.

Depending on your budget, you have a few options for finding a driver and bike in Siem Reap. Hidden Cambodia is a western run outfit, and will set you up with safety gear, guides, and bikes…all at premium prices.

Rates range from USD 155 to USD 185 per person/per day depending on the number of travelers.

On a tighter budget, consider Chaioffroadtrip. Chai is a safe driver, and you won’t meet a more friendly or honest Cambodian.

Chai quotes USD 80 per person per day on his website. All of the above prices include bike, driver, gas, food, accommodation, and admission fees.

Another option is to watch for locals riding around Siem Reap or Anlong Veng on dirtbikes. Most are amenable to negotiating impromptu trips for the right price.

However you find your prospective driver, do yourself a favor and sit down for a beer or a cup of tea with him before committing to the trip.

You’re going to spend at least six hours a day with your pelvis pressed into this guy’s tailbone…you’d better hope you get along.

Also, try to get a feel for whether the driver you’re considering knows how to fix his own bike. From where you’re headed, it’s a long way to the nearest garage.

Points En Route

The city of Anlong Veng 200+ km north of Siem Reap is home to a number of oddly non-judgmental monuments to the architects of the Khmer Rouge government, including Pol Pot’s grave.

At Koh Ker, the ruined once capital of the Khmer Empire doesn’t see many visitors. Beng Mealea is a temple complex even more jungle-ravaged than Ta Prohm at Angkor Wat, and definitely worth a visit.

Find a few of these spots on a map, connect them with a hand drawn line, and you’ve got the recipe for a dirtbike adventure lasting somewhere between 4 and 7 days.

photo by Andris Bjornson

Most travelers choose to start and finish their trek to Preah Vihear in Siem Reap, but other options exist.

If you’re headed to Phnom Penh, you could end your trip in Tbeng Meanchey and connect with onward public transportation. It’s possible to cross to/from Thailand near Anlong Veng, but onward transportation can be sketchy, so make sure to cross early in the day.

Safety

Like most third world countries, Cambodia is a place where travelers must accept responsibility for their own safety. Thousands of landmines placed over decades of conflict litter the countryside.

photo by Andris Bjornson

Temple sites have been cleared of landmines, but pay close attention to boundary warning signs. Travel only on worn roads and paths and never wander into the underbrush

Solo female travelers in particular should be on their guard. Assaults, though rare, have been known to take place even around Siem Reap.

What To Pack

There’s not a lot of trunk space on the average dirtbike, and you’ll probably wear your luggage on your back. Bring something to keep warm, and something to keep dry.

A krama (checkered Cambodian scarf) is great for keeping the dust out of your mouth. Bring a first aid kit; in Preah Vihear province you’re on your own when it comes to medical care.

Accept that you’re going to smell like hell by the end of the trip and don’t bring much extra gear. You’ll feel every ounce of gear in your pack slamming down on your shoulders as the bike ‘dances’ over the Cambodian ‘roads’.

Eating and Sleeping

Accommodations along the way are surprisingly not too shabby. In particular, don’t miss the guesthouse on the cliffs above Anlong Veng at what was once the ‘mountain house’ of Ta Mok, brother number four in the Khmer Rouge.

Hammocks offer great views of the Cambodian plains, a cool breeze keeps the mosquitoes away, and the basic single rooms are clean.

photo by Andris Bjornson

There’s a guesthouse in the ramshackle village at the entrance to the Preah Vihear temple complex where you’ll have to stay if you want to catch the sunrise from the temple. Both of these guesthouses cost about $4 usd per night, depending on your negotiating skills.

Food in Preah Vihear province (as in the rest of Cambodia) is simple but tasty: rice with various meats and vegetables. You’ll find restaurants in Anlong Veng and Tbeang Meanchey. Elsewhere it’s possible to buy meals from local families.

In either case, it’s best to eat whatever your host recommends, as it’s probably the freshest food available.

Travel guidebooks often suggest avoiding ice, but few things are more refreshing after a hard day’s ride than Crown beer poured over a single giant ice cube in a glass mug.

In Cambodia, it’s traditional to clink glasses before every sip. If you slip up and drink without toasting you’re expected to down the rest of your beer.

You have to love a culture that has ‘traditional’ drinking games. Cheers!

Community Connection!

MatadorTrips.com editor Tim Patterson has traveled to Cambodia several times and wrote a Backpacker’s Guide To Cambodia. Also check out his guide to Koh Rong, a remote island off the Cambodian coast.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

The adventure tourism boom has Nepal firmly in its sights, and Kathmandu’s Thamel district overflows with same kind of wall-to-wall tourism industry you’d expect to see on Bangkok’s Khao San Road.

Popular treks in the Everest Base Camp region and around the Annapurna Circuit, while as spectacular as ever, are now crowded with travelers.

If you’d rather share a cup of sweet tea with a Tibetan refugee than a bottle of beer with another backpacker at the end of each day’s hike, consider a trip to the base camp of the little known third tallest mountain in the world: Mt. Kangchenjunga.

Tucked away in the remote northeast corner of the country, the almost complete lack of tourist infrastructure in the Taplejung district of Nepal makes for an adventure that’s equal parts rugged and rewarding.

The 20+ day Kangchenjunga loop trek will have you subsisting on a diet of rice and lentils, sleeping chilly nights in drafty huts, and teetering across bridges you’d probably rather your mother never even imagine.

If you make it, though, the pay-offs are huge: You’ll be rewarded with unique insight into Nepali village life by living it from the inside out; you’ll experience every climate Nepal has to offer, from steamy jungles to jumbled glaciers; and if you’re lucky, you’ll make pre-dawn alpine starts to catch early morning views of 28,169 ft tall Mt. Kangchenjunga before the afternoon clouds close in at each of its two base camps.

Get a Fixer

Many independent travelers recoil at the thought of hiring a guide, but the Taplejung district of Nepal is a truly remote corner of the world.

Unless you know the Nepali for “I’m sorry to hear the airplane hasn’t been able to land in the fog for 15 days, can you please call your friend in the next village to book me a spot on the bus to Birtamod?” you’re really best off hiring a guide to accompany you from Kathmandu.

Find a trekking agency in Kathmandu that’s willing to provide just the basics: a permit, travel arrangements, and a guide who knows the area. Trek Nepal is a Nepali owned and operated outfitter located in the center of Thamel where you’ll always find someone ready to talk about adventure plans over a cup of tea.

Eating and Sleeping

The Kangchenjunga trekking loop connects just enough tiny villages to make traveling without a tent or cooking gear possible. Along the way, you’ll roll out your sleeping bag on bare wooden beds in basic teahouses frequented by porters or in family homes. High in the mountains, you’ll spend a few nights in stone huts used seasonally by yak herders.

If your guide doesn’t plan ahead, you may find yourself spending the occasional night in a cave.

Lunch and dinner on a Kangchenjunga trek will inevitably consist of dal (lentils) with baht (rice). Dinners are often augmented with a side of boiled potatoes or a spinach-like green vegetable. Dal baht can be surprisingly tasty and restorative after a long day of uphill trekking - don’t hesitate to ask for seconds and thirds.

photo by Andris Bjornson

Breakfasts generally take the form of some combination of eggs, crispy pan fried chapati, and instant noodle soup.

The alcoholic beverage of choice is tongba: a bitter drink made from hot water, fermented corn, rice, and millet and sipped through a straw from what looks like a miniature butter churn.

It’s possible to negotiate rates for food and lodging as you go, but you won’t save much and you’ll always be left wondering who came out on top.

A wiser alternative is to pay a lump sum to the trekking agency to cover food and lodging. This will make it in the guide’s best interest to negotiate fair deals, and it will leave you free to enjoy the trip.

What to Pack

Pack light and try to fit everything in a large daypack. Bring a sleeping bag rated to at least 0º F/20º C, a sleeping pad, and warm clothes including a hat and gloves.

The key to beating Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is to drink lots of water, so each trekker should carry bottles with at least 2 liters of capacity. Safe, boiled water from locals is a good way to fill bottles and make friends, but plan on bringing a few bottles of iodine tablets or a similar treatment option to fill in the gaps.

Even with a guide, stay oriented and carry a map. The Himalayan Maphouse publishes an excellent topographic map called ‘Kangchenjunga - Base Camp Trail’ covering the entire area in 1:100,000 scale.

photo by Andris Bjornson

Packing a few energy bars from Kathmandu to supply extra calories on particularly strenuous days is a good idea.

Finally, load up on medical supplies and know how to use them. If something goes wrong, medical help may be days away. Bring enough basic supplies like band-aids and antibiotic ointment so that you can treat locals you meet along the way. Don’t treat anything out of your depth, but be generous where you can.

Getting in and out:

Taplejung, district capital of Nepal’s Taplejung district, is the closest town to Mt. Kangchenjunga accessible by road or air. Each option - driving or flying - is an adventure in itself.

Since you’ll probably visit Taplejung exactly once in your life the best plan is probably to try one on the way in, and the other on the way out.

By Air

A Royal Nepal Airlines Twin Otter makes two weekly flights from Biratnagar (Nepal’s second largest city) to Suketar (Taplejung’s airport). Flights depart at 7am to beat mountain weather and only hold 18 passengers, so book ahead.

The spectacular flight offers views of snow capped Himalayan peaks to the north and ends with a hair-raising landing on an airstrip floating above the clouds.

Jovial Nepalis laugh at every turbulent bump which helps ease the tension. Cross your fingers on the takeoff: if the pilot comes up short it’s a 1,000 ft tumble to the valley floor in Taplejung.

By Bus

The paved Mahendra Highway connects Kathmandu with the small transit hub of Birtamod on its way to northeastern India. The paved road north from here to Taplejung goes as far as the tea growing town of Ilam before deteriorating to a rough dirt track.

Fortunately, Nepalis think nothing of taking an overloaded bus down roads that a westerner would think twice about exploring in a 4×4. Conditions have a significant effect on travel times, and the Birtamod/Taplejung trip will likely take more than a day.

Costs

I paid $900 for what ended up being a 21 day trip. Included in that was a Royal Nepal Air ticket from Kathmandu to Biratnagar (USD 91) and from Biratnagar to Suketar (USD 65). The remaining cost breaks out to about $35/day for food, lodging, and guide.

Trip Length / Schedule

It’s a 7 day hike from Suketar (the closest airport) to Ghunsa (the first point where you really start popping out over the tree line). If you’re a mountain seeker looking to get up into alpine territory, a trip shorter than 14 days to this region may not be rewarding.

If you’re there for the village life, and don’t mind spending most of your time at the lower jungle elevations it could still be a great spot for a week long trek. There’s a holy shrine to the goddess Pathibhara Devi on a high hilltop within two days walk of Suketar where there’s a Buddhist lamp lighting ceremony on every full moon.

If you only had a week, this would be my recommendation:

Day 1: Fly to Biratnagar
Day 2: Fly to Suketar/walk to Deurali
Day 3: Hike to Pathibhara, and from here, on to Chhiruwa
Day 4: Hike to Lingkhim
Day 5: Hike to Suketar
Day 6: Fly to Kathmandu via Biratnagar

Community Connection!

Matador’s Nepal expert, Grady, is a documentary film-maker who grew up and went to international school in Kathmandu.

Several Nepali NGOs have profiles on Matador, including the Center For Cultural Studies and Volunteering.

The extraordinary Everest Peace Project, which brought a team of Israeli and Palestinian mountaineers to the summit of Everest, was recently featured in Matador’s Traverse magazine.

Are you thinking of visiting Nepal? Dive into the Matador community and make the connections you need for a life-changing trip.

Lift tickets at Vail, Aspen, Breckenridge, and the other top-name resorts are approaching $100. It’s enough to make you wonder whether it’s possible to ski Colorado without taking out a second mortgage.

But fear not. If you’re able to venture south, away from the over-developed I-70 corridor and beyond the glitzy boundaries of the mega-resorts, Colorado’s endless mountains hold some real gems.

Two of the best under-the-radar CO ski areas are Wolf Creek and Monarch Mountain. Neither is terribly large. Nor do they offer faux-alpine condo blocks, five-star restaurant chains, or opera houses. In fact, each has little more than a base lodge, rental shop, and a few eating establishments.

What they do have, though, is what counts most for a killer ski vacation: incredible natural snow, lift lines that are manageable on weekends and holidays and practically nonexistent during the week, and ticket prices you won’t kick yourself for paying.

photo courtesy of Hal Amen

In addition, both Wolf Creek and Monarch rank high on the environmental scorecard of the Ski Area Citizens’ Coalition, which coincidentally places several of the state’s better-known mountains towards the bottom of its low-impact list.

So let’s wrap up. You get dreamy snow, relative seclusion, extra money in your wallet, and a genuine Rocky Mountain experience, minus boutiques selling fur coats and $275 sunglasses.

Wolf Creek

“The Most Snow in Colorado.” Enough said. But not only does Wolf Creek consistently rack up the most inches in the state (450 on average and up to 600), the light, soft quality of its powder is truly something to be experienced. And at $48 a day, it’s a steal to do so.

Another unique aspect of Wolf Creek is its relatively open trails. Whereas runs on other mountains may be hemmed in by thick woods, trees are more sparsely situated at Wolf Creek, giving you the freedom to cut lines across the mountain however you please.

photo courtesy of Hal Amen

In 1999, the Alberta quad lift was added, increasing Wolf Creek’s lift-serviced acres from 600 to 1,600. The new terrain is primarily gladed, with numerous powder chutes and bowls.

Wolf Creek’s location, while prime for snowfall, also keeps the crowds of wealthy Texans and Denver day-trippers away.

Seated just east of the summit of the formidable Wolf Creek Pass, it can be difficult to reach when the snow really starts dropping.

In fact, during the 2007-08 season alone the pass was closed more than a dozen times.

Accommodation in the town of South Fork, also on the eastern side of the pass, provides both the shortest and least intense drive to the mountain.

However, if you’re staying for more than a couple days, you’ll probably want to head over the pass to the livelier population center of Pagosa Springs.

Reasonably priced motels can be found here, and after a long day of cutting through the powder, you can relax in the hot springs in the center of town.

(Note: Just how long Wolf Creek will remain a down-to-earth ski mountain is uncertain. See the Friends of Wolf Creek website to learn about a development proposal being fought both by locals and the ski area management itself.)

Monarch Mountain

Monarch can’t compete with Wolf Creek in the snowfall race, but its high elevation ensures that it gets hit with the good stuff pretty often (averaging 350” annually). What’s more, the unassuming charm of this mid-state mountain is sure to win you over.

Your fellow skiers and riders are as likely to be sporting blue jeans as the latest Spyder gear, while the views from the top of the peak will leave you breathless.

You won’t find as much in the way of technical challenges at Monarch either; nearly every run can be tackled with intermediate skills. However, the opening of the 130-acre Mirkwood Basin in 2005 has added some much-appreciated double-black terrain. A 15-minute hike is required to access this hidden stash, but its chutes, rock cliffs, and tree skiing are worth the effort.

Monarch’s lift tickets come in at $52 a day, and this price drops to $42 if you buy at least one day in advance online. As if this weren’t good enough, even bigger deals have become available in recent years.

This season, Ski Free Colorado has partnered with Philips 66 to offer a buy-one-get-one-free voucher whenever you purchase 10 gallons of gas from a participating station. That’s $26 a lift ticket! The vouchers are valid at Crested Butte, Winter Park, and Copper Mountain as well.

Monarch is also more accommodation-friendly than Wolf Creek. The small city of Salida, brimming with motels, lies 20 miles east of the mountain on Highway 50. Even more conveniently located is the Monarch Mountain Lodge, just 3 miles away. The adjacent village, Garfield, has several vacation homes available for rent.

Practical Info

The closest major airport to Pagosa Springs (Wolf Creek) is in Albuquerque, a 4-hour drive to the south. Alternatively, the tiny airport of Durango is just 60 miles away.

It takes a little over 3 hours to reach Salida (Monarch Mountain) from the Denver International Airport, and about an hour less from Colorado Springs.

Community Connection!

Chris Weiss is a powder hound living in Colorado who has written some sweet blogs about ski areas in Vermont. Chris is fired up on big whiteouts, beautiful rolling singletrack and writing about his experiences .

Snowloon also knows a thing or two about secret Colorado powder stashes.

Photo by Santiago Tarallo

Mar del Plata is the surf city of Argentina. 600,000 people live in this beach town south of Buenos Aires, and sometimes it seems like most of them are out in the lineup. The waves aren’t the greatest in the world, but the vibe is stellar and the locals know how to party.

Fall and winter pack the best swell, with Antarctic currents making the water feel like, you know, it’s coming from the Antarctic.

During the summer the beaches are literally packed with Porteños, vacationers from Buenos Aires, as well as sun-seekers from the rest of the country. While the swell tends to die, the water temperature rises nicely…like the countless thongs and killer nightlife.

Weather Conditions

Water temperature varies greatly. Summertime temps hover around 20 degrees. Fall cools down and by the time winter arrives in June, the water’s generally slurpy-brain-freeze cold: like, 8 degrees on average.

A 3/2 shorty suffices in the summer; spring and fall you can get by with a 3/2 full suit; winter demands a minimum 4/3 suit with booties, gloves and hood.

The best swells come from the south. In the summer you should be happy to get four or five feet at a period of anything more than 8 seconds.

The rest of the year you can expect something like this on a pretty consistent basis, but five-day dry spells are not at all uncommon. If you’re making the five-hour trip down from Buenos Aires be sure to check a swell report or grab a look at the breaks on a webcam.

photo courtesy of wehiga80

The best time to be in the water is early morning before the wind picks up. Of course, the best time to be in a nightclub is early morning before the doors close.

Here the true dilemma of the Marplatense surfer!

However, if a large night has outbid an early morning wake-up, the wind will often die for about an hour around sundown, giving you a great time to be in the water, especially during the summer when crowds will have thinned.

Sharks, No. Shit, Yes.

There are no sharks in Mar del Plata—because they would have nothing to eat. Really, you will be lucky to see any sign of life at all in the water. There is a large port and the corresponding filth emanates south of Playa Grande.

Migrating trash from the beaches, especially during the summer, makes for some less-than-lovely paddling encounters. The largest concerns, however, come from post-storm runoff and the sewage processing plant located about 10km north of the city.

Processing here is definitely something of a euphemism: the sewage is oxygenized to expedite the decomposition and then pumped out in a giant pipe. Pretty gross? Lets call it the less glamorous side of the South American experience.

Fortunately swells generally come from the south or east. On the chance that your visit corresponds with a northern swell, the further south you can go the better.

The Breaks

Mar del Plata’s coast has been refitted with a swarm of jetties which, depending on the placement, have either created or destroyed the city’s surf spots. Most of the jetties are north of the city center in the neighborhood of La Perla.

Depending on swell direction and size these jetties can throw off some fun, hollow, little waves. Most of the time, though, their quick close-outs are more suited to body boarders. Look for something coming from the southeast at 5-7 feet for them to be working.

Playa Varnesse

Heading south from the city-center and its filthy, surfless beach (Playa Popular) the next beach you hit is Playa Varresse. Varresse used to be home to Mar del Plata’s best wave, a long right point break that was used for the Pan-Am games in 1995.

Shortly after this the point was blocked by the construction of a jetty and the wave was lost. Now the beach is substantially protected, but does pick up an eastern swell and can be a good place for beginners.

It’s also definitely worth checking on a big southerly where the classic point can still go off in front of the southern jetty.

Playa Grande

The most well-known and consistent breaks in Mardel come next as you’re heading south. Signage will indicate the beach: Playa Grande. The spot to be will shift from the north jetty to the south jetty depending on swell size and direction; sadly, it’s almost never hard to tell: unless you’re on dawn patrol, the pack should be thick.

The northern break is called Biologia, and is the most consistent spot during the small summer swells. The southern break is called Yacht, gets going during the fall and can be a really quality right point. Both receive wind protection from the respective jetties that they abut.

photo courtesy of carlosallevato

However, both waves also host some of the city’s most competitive crowds, whose presence and size can at times be debilitating. Like anywhere where there aren’t enough waves to go around, the vibe isn’t exactly friendly, but people are respectful and mostly just focused on catching what they can and having fun with their crew.

The exceptions are a few snaky body-boarders and teenagers—basically, city surfing as normal. In any case, comply with typical etiquette and surf with some confidence and you’ll have no problem.

Hell, get out before 10 a.m. with a decent swell and you’ll probably have a rocking good time.

Waikiki

Keep heading south and after about 3km you’ll pass Punta Magotes, the most familial of Mardel’s beaches. This ends at a point break called Waikiki.

Waikiki is exclusively a longboarder break at anything under 5 feet. Even on larger swells the wave is considerably mushy—like the real Waikiki but not as good.

Still, as far as longboarding waves go, this is the best option when there isn’t enough swell for things to be working at Playa Grande. And, since the crowd is generally older, the vibe is a good deal more relaxed.

Playa Mariano

After Punta Magotes comes Playa Mariano (it’s sometimes also referred to by the names of its balnearios, such as Honu Beach). This is Mardel’s beach break with the most exposure to southern swells, so it is generally faster and more powerful than the beaches closer to the city.

It is also cleaner and, with a variety of peaks, it’s far less crowded. It is particularly wind sensitive, so getting out early can be really advantageous.

In front of the lighthouse, at the south end of the beach there is also a long right point that will go off on a large southerly, and is arguably the best wave around. However, conditions for this are fickle, and even locals have a hard time predicting its appearance.

On a given day though, Playa Mariano is probably the best place to look for waves in the Mar del Plata area.

Further south there are more waves and fewer people. It can be a fun place to explore with miles of beach break to choose from. Quality generally increases as one approaches the little town of Chapadmalal in the south; from there you’re getting close to Miramar and a whole new scene.

Access

If you have a short-board, you can grab a bus. The 221 runs all along the coast and accepts change—fare of about $1.30. From the city center the 571 and 511 will take you to a stone’s throw of Playa Grande, but you’ll need a bus card, which you can buy at the main bus terminal or other kiosks around the city.

The 511 and 221 will also get you as far as Playa Mariano and the other beaches in the south.

Equipment

All the major surf beaches during the summer have surf schools offering rentals and classes. In addition Birdband has boards, wetsuits, wax and a super friendly shaper/owner Pepe Hill. It’s located in front of the cemetery on Almafuerte between Pellegrini and B.D.Irigoyen.

Casi Nuevo buys and sells all sorts of new and used boards, wetsuits and the necessary supplies. It’s in the city center at the corner of Rivadavia and 14 de Julio.

Accommodations

Hostel Playa Grande is a five minute walk down the hill to the breaks at, yep, Playa Grande. The hostel has a fun, young vibe, and caters to surfers, with boards to rent and organized surfing classes.

Another inexpensive option is Hotel Pergamino, which is located in the city center and is normally about $5 cheaper per night; its downside that it’s located a 30-minute walk or 10-minute bus-ride to any surf.

Community Connection!

There are lots of surfers in the Matador community, including a 26 year old man from London who came to South America by cargo ship and is slowly making his way up the coast of Brazil, or Spencer Klein, a great writer who knows all the best waves in Panama.

Then there is David Miller’s soulful classic on surfing Baja, still one of the best pieces ever published on Matador: Notes On Los Pitayeros: Surf, Camping And Hallucinogenic Cacti On The Pacific Coast Of Baja

Have you been to Mar del Plata? Know any great waves you want to share? Leave a comment below!

The first time I went to Iguazú Falls I was in love.

I had just fallen for a boy named Ed who promised me he would show me the world. In the end he did just that, but the trip to Iguazú was our first together. This is probably why I tell everyone who asks me about Argentina to visit Iguazú and the red province of Misiones.

Photo by Lucia Byttebier

There’s something ancient and magical about this corner of northern Argentina, tucked between Paraguay and Brazil.

The indigenous Guaraní people who populated these lands in pre-Columbian times left their spirit behind in the crimson earth, steaming jungles and raging river waters.

It was here that Ed and I discovered a part of Argentina we had never experienced before, even though both of us are native Argentines. Our trip to Misiones opened our hearts - and sent us tumbling into each other’s arms.

A Legend Of Young Lovers

Old Guaraní legends tell of the monstrous serpent who lived in the Iguazú River. Every year Guaraní tribesmen would sacrifice a young virgin and throw her into the furious waters for the serpent.

Guaraní tribes from far and wide were invited to attend the ceremony, but one year, a young chieftain by the name of Tarobá laid eyes upon the beautiful virgin, Naipí, who had been chosen for the sacrificial rite.

Taroba fell in love with Naipi on the spot and tried to convince the council of elders to free her from her doom. Defeated, he decided to capture his love and escape with her by moonlight in a canoe.

Tragically, the serpent saw the lovers escape and became enraged, lashing her tail with such force that the river split apart, the earth broke open and the mighty Iguazú Falls were formed.

Wanting to remain together forever, Taropá’s spirit was transformed into the trees that guard the falls, while Naipí’s long hair became the water that eternally cascades down.

The nearby town of Puerto Iguazú offers a good variety of accommodation for every type of budget. Backpackers and young travelers will find Los Helechos hostel a fitting retreat with air conditioned rooms among bird-filled gardens and a small but convenient swimming pool.

Beyond Iguazu

Iguazú Falls is spectacular. Go. You will be blown away.

Photo by Lucia Byttebier

But remember - Iguazu isn’t the only attraction in Misiones. To truly open your heart to the ancient magic of the red province, you need to get off the tourist trail. Here are some insider tips to hush-hush destinations:

Jesuit Mission Ruins

Jesuit missionaries arrived in South America in the 17th century during the Spanish colonization to convert the Guarani to Christianity.

The missions they built here were not meant to enslave the indigenous natives, but to protect the land and its people from slave-hunters working for more mercenary European colonists.

Today baroque walls of red sandstone stand amidst lush green fields in San Ignacio.

As one ventures near, the exquisite marriage of European religious architecture and Guarani artistry is clear, with indigenous carvings of river-snakes intertwined with elegant classical ornamentation.

San Ignacio is protected by UNESCO, but there are other Jesuit reductions nearby that are kept by local organizations, such as Santa Ana and Nuestra Señora de Loreto.

Both of these ancient ruins are half-eaten by the jungle: roots and canopies invade the old stone walls in a silent struggle to reclaim the land.

Photo by Lucia Byttebier

Santa Ana has been left as found without the preservation works that were undertaken at San Ignacio. Here, the vestiges of the once busy missions are scattered around the dense jungle floor, where vines and thick branches garland down from stately trees.

Nuestra Señora de Loreto, only about 30 minutes away from Santa Ana, is guarded by an army of quiet lizards who bask in the sun on the ancient mission walls.

There is also a carved pillar here that has been all but eaten up by the bark of a tree. Each year the tree engulfs the pillar a little more, but prying the thick roots away would mean destroying the 400 year old pillar, so the rock and tree remain locked together in a slow embrace.

Caves and Camping

Misiones is all about nature, and there’s no better way to appreciate it than by camping. There are many excellent camping grounds , but the Paraje Tres de Mayo in the district of Garuhapé is the best.

The nearby Indian Cave, which looks out to a natural swimming hole fed by cool waterfalls, is rumored to have been the home to groups of hunters and gatherers who left behind remains of their primitive tools made of shells and bone.

Hikes above and around the cave take you deep within the damp undergrowth where hordes of butterflies rest in red-water puddles.

The water is red because the soil in Misiones has staggering levels of iron, making the earth come alive in shades of flaming terra cotta. The red rapids of the mighty Misiones rivers churn and curl with the richness of minerals.

For Ed and I, the trip to Misiones was about connecting with the raw force of nature, with the people who gave life to this part of Argentina, and most of all, with each other.

For a moment we put our European roots aside, and remembered the original inhabitants of our country. The native red soil of Misiones stuck to our shoes and jeans and hearts.

Community Connection!

Matador members who loved their trip to Iguazu Falls include Morris Abroad, an expert on Buenos Aires, and Helena de Natalio, who creates clothing and accessories in Buenos Aires and travels regularly between BA and San Francisco.

Heli-Heaven Photo by Steve Langer

What is paradise?

Perhaps to a fly fisherman, paradise is bone fishing in the Bahamas. Or to a golfer it’s playing Pebble Beach. For an accomplished powder skier there is no question: paradise is definitely helicopter skiing in British Columbia.

It is incomparable. It is awesome. It is the ultimate ski experience. Most importantly, it is habit forming. In my many years of helicopter skiing I can’t recall how many people have said “I had to do this once… it’s the trip of a lifetime”.

Only once? Good luck.

Pure Powder

Having lived the majority of my life in Colorado I have done plenty of powder skiing. However, there is powder skiing within the confines of a ski area, there is powder skiing in the backcountry, and then there is heli-skiing: a whole new ballgame.

While not for the meek nor for the beginner, heli-skiing is far from the exclusive domain of extreme mountain pros.

The magic of a helicopter lifting off and whisking you and a few friends into the sky, dropping you on top of a pure and untouched ridge with nothing but a bowl of clean, light frosted flakes below is simply an out-of-this-world experience.

While not for the meek nor for the beginner, heli-skiing is far from the exclusive domain of extreme mountain pros.

Since the advent of wider and more user-friendly powder skis some 15 years ago, deep powder skiing has become significantly more accessible for mortals like you and me. These days, any skier who maintains good physical conditioning and can handle most trails at their local ski resort can learn the basics of deep powder skiing in only a few runs.

Why British Columbia?

Why, one might wonder, has British Columbia become the Mecca for heli-skiing?

The first key to B.C.’s inside track is elevation. When you start at valley elevations of 150 to 500 meters above sea level, surrounded by peaks that reach 3000 meters, you get more than great potential for big-time vertical.

You also get the perfect environment for safe helicopter usage, as these elevations are low enough for helicopters to work within their optimum performance levels.

Powder Paradise photo by Steve Langer

Try the same thing in Colorado, for example, and you are asking the equipment and pilots to perform in an environment that pushes the limits of both the aircraft and the skill set of even the best pilots.

Add to this the fact that British Columbia enjoys an incredibly reliable storm track and thus a great snow pack, and the recipe for paradise is complete.

A Short History Of Heli-Skiing In British Columbia

In the late 1960’s the industry began with a company that still flourishes in the province,
CMH, or Canadian Mountain Holidays which was started by the visionary ski guide, Hans Gmoser.

Now with about a dozen lodges spread throughout some of the best powder skiing locations in B.C., CMH has set the standard for the industry.

CMH was followed about 10 years later by several companies which were started by some of Gmoser’s original guides, including companies such as Mike Wiegele Helicopter Skiing out of Blue River B.C. and Selkirk Tangiers in Revelstoke B.C., both of which have enjoyed over 25 years as key players in the industry.

A New Generation Of Heli-Skiing

It didn’t stop there, however. As the next generation of guides grew up working for these successful companies, there were individuals among them who possessed the entrepreneurial spirit.

Ready for the hot-tub yet? photo by Steve Langer

Coincidentally, at the same time, the province of British Columbia was interested in finding ways to bring more tourist dollars into the region.

For powder hounds, it was a perfect storm: smaller boutique operations began to pop up throughout the province offering a more personalized experience.

These new operators generally used smaller more powerful helicopters, with an emphasis on quality, service and amenities such as massage and great food, all fostered by the enthusiasm of a younger generation who cut their teeth guiding and working with many of the pioneers of the industry.

Ski guides in Canada must be certified by either the European or the Canadian mountain guides associations

Additionally, with the number of operations having increased significantly, the competition for skiers also increased.

What had once been a seller’s market, with very few companies providing heli-skiing services, became a much more balanced market.

These days, after the initial heli-ski boom, three to four times the number of operators are all vying for heli-ski dollars and attracting new clients by providing increased quality and value.

Safety Standards

With such growth also come growing pains. Responsible operators take great care in selecting and continually training both their guides and support staff in all areas of skiing and guiding safety.

Ski guides in Canada must be certified by either the European or the Canadian mountain guides associations, both of which require years of on the job experience as an apprentice as well as rigorous training and testing before a guide can be certified.

(A note of warning: in the United States no such requirement exists).

Additionally, the industry in British Columbia is self governed by it’s own association - Helicat Canada - which insists that its member operators meet specific standards relative to operations, safety, and environmental stewardship.

This alliance creates a conduit within which the various operator members can compare notes together with their associates in the Canadian Avalanche Association to keep a close eye on snow safety issues throughout each season.

The current president of Helicat Canada, John Forrest, is a partner in one of the finest of the newer operations, Northern Escape Heli-Skiing in the town of Terrace.

A good personal friend and a consummate professional, John is just one of many of his generation who are taking the mechanized ski industry in British Columbia to the next level.

While heli-skiing carries certain inherent dangers that should be carefully considered before determining that this is the vacation for you, it’s comforting to know that the level of expertise and cooperation among the heli-ski professionals of British Columbia continues to bring the highest possible levels of safety to a truly great adventure sport.

Community Connection! Matador member Tal Fletcher is a heli-ski guide in Alaska. David Miller wrote a classic profile of Tal a while back in Traverse magazine - “Feeling Gravity’s Pull”.