Naturally heated pool, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

If you thought the Caribbean was all about cruise ship and cocktails, think again.

Often bypassed for more touristy destinations, with only 40,000 or so inhabitants, Dominica is small but charming, the ideal spot for a romantic getaway.

Dominica is mountainous, and the towns boast a friendly, rustic elegance. Countless jungle trails lead to waterfalls and steaming hot springs. Don’t expect to lounge in a beach chair; Dominica is all about exploring, getting dirty and embracing romantic discovery.

Orientation

Middleham Falls, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

The Commonwealth of Dominica lies in the middle of the Lesser Antilles, with Guadeloupe to the north and Martinique to the south. Roseau, the capital, is on the southwestern side, facing the Caribbean.

Getting to Dominica can take some planning. There are two airports on the island, Canefield near Roseau and Melville Hall on the northeastern side, but flights can be expensive.

Neighboring islands Martinique and Guadeloupe are better hubs for connecting flights to North America and Europe. From there you can take a ferry through L’Express des Iles, which will take you to the Port of Roseau.

Dominica uses the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD). Many places accept US dollars, but this can lead to confusion and paying more than you need to. In Roseau there are several ATMs which make getting cash easy. Exchange rate (as of April 23, 2008) is 1 USD= 2.67 XCD.

If you stay in a small guesthouse, plan to budget about $30-60 USD per night for a double. Eco-lodges and resorts run a little more expensive and can range anywhere from $50-$250 per night for a double.

Dominican Hospitality

Strangers will greet you with a friendly smile and an additional “be cool maaan.”

To take advantage of this ambiance, stay in a local guesthouse. Despite a small population, people all over the island open up their houses and beds to tourists. You can expect a genuine morning “how are you” and breakfast, complete with a glass of passion fruit or sorrel juice.

In Roseau, your best bets are Ma Bass Guest House and St. James Guest House. For a more romantic getaway, nothing compares with one of the eco-lodges.

Dominica has become a hot spot for the adventurous travelers who stay in charming but authentic rainforest lodges. On the east side of the island, near Rosalie, check out the 3 River Eco Lodge. This lodge also owns the adjacent Rosalie Forest Lodge which can hook you up with a treehouse, a Creole cooking class, or even a local homestay.

Close to popular Trafalgar Falls is Papillote Wilderness Retreat, which offers four hot spring pools and a yard with clucking chickens and preening peacocks.

The Perfect 10 day Itinerary

10 days on a small island can seem like a long time, but once you fall into the chill swing of things you might wish for 10 weeks.

For a good introduction to Dominica, you’ll want to have at least 2 days to hang out and explore Roseau. Stay in the city for 5 nights and use the other days for day-trip excursions.

After you’ve have your fill of “city” living, work your way up north for 2 nights in Calibishie. If you haven’t made it to Portsmouth yet, now is the time.

For your last 3 days, explore the Carib Territory and the eastern side of the island. Take a drive down to La Plaine; this section of road takes you along an impressive section of Atlantic coastline where you’ll feel like you’re in Pirates of the Caribbean.

Relaxing in Roseau

Roseau is tiny by capital city standards, but there’s lots to do. Botanical gardens, zouk music bars, fried chicken, and colorful daily markets are only the beginning.

Roseau can also be used as a base camp; from here you can easily take day trips to Champagne Beach, Scott’s Head, Trafalgar Falls, Emerald Pool, Soufrière Springs, Boiling Lake and maybe even try some whale watching.

Staying in the capital also allows you to take advantage of a variety of restaurants and bars after a day of exploring; what better way to enjoy a strenuous day’s hike than drinking a fresh Kubuli while watching the sun set over the Caribbean Sea?

Valley of Desolation, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

Welcome to the Jungle

If you’re in the mood for something more secluded, reserve a few days for a stay in the jungle; there’s nothing more romantic than holing up in the heart of tropical trees and waterfalls.

Dominica’s various lodges and cabins are ideal for this; you’ll be nestled into your own tropical wonderland, free to explore the surrounding areas. If the beach is calling you, make your way up to the fishing village of Calibishie, which features the only sand beach on the island.

Here you can spend a few days lounging around and taking part in the local fishing life, complete with seafood dinner with a view.

Take time to plan for some of the top excursions that are Dominican favorites: Boiling Lake, Scott’s Head which is known for some excellent diving and snorkeling, the Carib Territory – home to the indigenous population of Dominica – and finally, the northern city of Portsmouth and Fort Shirley.

Hot Springs and Waterfalls

Maybe the most romantic aspect of Dominica is the plethora of waterfalls and hot springs. Known as the “nature island” Dominica offers a pristine Caribbean wilderness. In fact, Dominica is the only island in the Lesser Antilles with a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Most of Dominica’s environmental attractions are in Mornes Trois Pitons National Park and therefore require an eco-tourism site pass. Single site passes can be purchased for $5 XCD, usually close to the site. Unlimited week passes are $26 XCD.

From Roseau you can reach most of the major waterfalls and outdoor attractions, although some take longer hikes to get to than others.

Trafalgar is the closest to the capital and therefore the most crowded; go in the morning to avoid the mid-day crowds that flock in from harbored cruise ships.

For a more secluded hike, put Middleham Falls on your list. The most popular trail access is from Laudat and consists of a winding jungle path that takes you through the depths of the Caribbean flora and fauna before arriving at the impressive Middleham Falls.

Because of the longer hike to get to the falls, Middleham is less frequented.

On the east side of the island you will find hikes to both Sari Sari and Victoria Falls; both are classified as medium to difficult, but well worth the effort. Keep in mind that the trails can often be slippery and tiring; you’ll need sturdy shoes and some sustenance.

Pick up a few baguettes, fresh fruit and a loaf of homemade banana bread at one of the local stores before hitting the trail.

Volcanoes and Spas

Emerald Pool, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

Beyond waterfalls, Dominica is one of the youngest islands in the Lesser Antilles, meaning that its volcano base is constantly changing the landscape.

Active volcanoes mean a wealth of natural hot and sulfur springs scattered around the island. One of the island’s favorite natural hot springs is Screw Spas in Wotten Waven – just up the valley from Roseau – run by a quirky man with dreads and a constant smile.

For more luxurious spa destinations check out Rainforest Paradise, Jungle Bay Resort and Spa and Rainforest Shangri-La Resort which offer luxurious specialties like aromatherapy massages, mud scrubs and yoga.

Chowing Down

With all the physical activity that your Dominican adventure will entail, there’s no question you will build up an appetite. The staple Dominican diet consists of a hearty amount of chicken, rice, plantain and manioc root.

Roseau offers a variety of restaurants from traditional Caribbean to Chinese. Fresh fruit is served as is or pressed into juices, and you can’t come away from Dominica without a new addiction to passion fruit juice.

For a quick bite, many roadside “snackettes” offer a selection of meat pies and sandwiches; the best ones made with a codfish. These are often the best places to get the low-down on local life. Stop in, buy a sandwich and a local Kubuli beer and prepare for a story.

Getting Around

Mini-van ‘buses’ run often and are dependable. If you want to explore independently at a slow pace, renting a car is a good way to go. Remember that Dominicans drive on the left side of the road.

Dominican law requires a Dominican driver’s license, which costs $12 XCD. Pick one up at the car rental agencies. Keep in mind that 4 wheel drive vehicles are helpful but not necessary, but beware of the many potholes which cover the roadways, and you’ll be driving on the left hand side of the road!

Other sources of information

Once you start doing some research, you will find that many Dominican websites look like they were made in the early 90s; don’t hold it against them, the information they contain is up to date and helpful. Good places to start are A Virtual Dominica, Discover Dominica and Visit Dominica.

You can also check out Dominica: The Nature Island of the Caribbean an online book which I designed and wrote last spring.

Community Connection!

Having hitchhiked across the Caribbean, Matador traveler anthonygatti knows his stuff about a lot of the islands. Deva has spent the last month in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, giving a good insider perspective to Caribbean travel that doesn’t include cruise ships.

Photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

From the lonely shores of Changlang Beach on the Thai mainland, the view is of a calm sea dotted with craggy, verdant isles. As the sun sets, the receding tide barely laps the shell-studded sands while locals wade in placid waters, trailing fishing nets.

It’s a wonderfully languid scene, epitomizing the perennial laid-back vibe of this province way down on the western coast of Thailand

Tranquil Trang

Trang (pronounced ‘Dtrang’ with a hard consonant) encompasses an area with a 120-mile coastline as well as 47 islands stretching from the lower Andaman Sea to the Straits of Malacca.

The provincial capital of Trang was once a bustling port, attracting Fukien Chinese settlers at the turn of the 20th century.

Although the town moved thirty miles inland due to flooding, it retains charming outside influences in its architecture, temples, and food; the latter includes a unique breakfast consisting of strong coffee (‘kopii’) laced with condensed milk, dim sum, and hot soymilk.

Unlike nearby Phuket or Krabi, Trang has been spared from rampant development, thanks to a vibrant local economy not dependent on tourism.

Trang will probably remain pristine, given that two thirds of the province, replete with lushly forested hills, white sand beaches, limestone caves, and waterfalls, has been designated as national parkland.

Trang sustained relatively little damage from the 2004 tsunami, although on Muk and Libong islands, tidal waves destroyed fishing boats and homes.

Today, the only readily visible indications of the devastating event are tsunami escape route signs posted throughout coastal areas.

The islands beckon during the sultry month of April, especially if your idea of paradise includes getting back to basics. The Changlang beachfront has no vendors, Internet cafes, and fast foods joints, and the islands hold promise of even more blissfully simplistic surroundings.

Island Idyll

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

You could spend months exploring all the islands of Trang. But for starters, there are five larger ones off the coast that are regularly serviced by ferries from the mainland: Muk, Kradan, and Hai in the north, and Libong and Sukorn in the south. For easy island hopping, hire your own long-tail boat with an operator/guide.

Ko Muk

Ko Muk is the most well known, not because of its sun-drenched beaches or Muslim fishing village, but because of an intriguing natural formation located on the uninhabited side of the island.

Called the Emerald Cave (‘Tham Morakot’), its name becomes obvious once you swim through a concealed tunnel that breaks into a green lagoon fringed by white sand and contained by tall limestone cliffs framing a patch of sky.

The cave is only accessible during low tide, and a guide will be especially handy as you may bobble for 260 feet in pitch darkness, depending on when you go. Plan carefully; otherwise, you may be stuck inside until the tide goes down.

Ko Kradan

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

Ko Kradan holds the Guinness Book of World Record for the largest underwater wedding, where couples (and diving enthusiasts) exchange vows and sign marriage certificates under the sea every Valentine’s Day.

Aside from this quirky, fun-loving extravaganza, Ko Kradan boasts some of the best snorkeling spots in the deep azure waters off its cliffs.

Schools of brilliant fish weave around pink sea fan and rounded brain coral, and other multicolored sea life.

Ko Libong

Nature lovers will enjoy Ko Libong, Trang’s largest island and sanctuary to a variety of local and migratory birds. It is also home of the dugong, or manatee, that feed off of the island’s sea grass beds. The timid mammal is now endangered, and sightings are extremely rare.

Ko Sukorn, Ko Hai, and the uninhabited isles in between are less frequented, but offer hidden reefs and quiet spots for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking.

Island Living

Accommodations are readily available on Muk, Kradan, Hai, Libong, and Sukorn islands, ranging from spartan to more kitted-out bungalows. Mid-range to luxury hotels can be found on the mainland. Check sites such as www.hotelthailand.net for an extensive listing of places to stay.

While there is no bad time to visit, the drier months from December to April are considered the high season, reflected in higher hotel rates and visitor numbers. If you’re on a budget (or slightly misanthropic), go during the monsoon season from May to October. Sunshine is still aplenty, and short bursts of rain offer relief from the heat.

While food choices are an eclectic mix of Thai, Chinese, Muslim, and international fare, there is not a wide range of dining venues. At hotels, food and drink prices tend to be on the high side, compared to the mainland. However, the seafood cannot be fresher, and you can usually grill the catch of the day to your own liking.

You can also visit the many Muslim fishing villages in the area for inexpensive meals and possible accommodations.

There isn’t much in terms of nightlife outside of open-air resort bars and the occasional impromptu beach party. Expect mellow evenings spent sipping beer while watching karaoke or bonding with fellow travelers.

Getting There

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

Nok Air, the low-cost affiliate of Thai Airways, flies directly from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Trang every day. Weekday fares are cheaper (starting from $60 one way, 80-minutes) and bookings can be made online.

Two “express” trains leave Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Station every evening. Second class sleeper fare starts at $17 and the 540-mile journey takes 15 hours. Click here for train information.

Buses also depart regularly from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal on Pinklao-Nakorn Chaisi Road. Click here for bus information.

Once you’re in Trang, get on a taxi or ‘song thaew,’ a pickup fitted with narrow wooden benches and tin roof, bound for one of the piers (if you’ve opted for train travel, you’ll already be near Kantang pier).

Certain piers are much closer to some island groups: Pakmeng, Chaomai, and Kuantunku piers are north, nearer to Ko Muk and surrounding isles; Kantang and Taseh piers are south, closer to Ko Libong and Ko Sukorn.

Ferries depart regularly and a one-way ticket costs from $4 to $10, depending on your destination. If traveling in a group, it may be just as cost-effective (and faster) to charter your own long-tail boat at the pier.

Alternately, you can get to the mainland or islands from Phuket, Krabi, Ko Lanta, and other nearby provinces. Check with local travel agents for options.

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are backpacking in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

The awesome SE Asia travel website TravelFish has a solid Trang travel guide.

Justin88 is traveling in South East Asia until he runs out of money, currently bound for Malaysia. Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Photo by Hal Amen

Zipping down from Luang Prabang?

Cruising up from Phnom Penh? Shooting over from BKK? Make sure to cool your jets for a few days in the southern Lao town of Champasak.

Orientation

Champasak lies 25 miles downstream from the southern hub of Pakse. It’s on the shore opposite the highway, accessible by boat from the Ban Muang docks.

Nearly the entire town is laid out along a single road that parallels the Mekong River. In the center, a traffic circle (with no traffic to speak of) rings a decaying stone fountain that hints of this town’s distinctive past.

Faded Grandeur

photo by Hal Amen

In Champasak you’ll find the same “go with the river’s flow” mentality celebrated by backpackers further north at Muang Ngoi Neua and further south on the Four Thousand Islands. But there’s more to Champasak than banana milkshakes and hammock naps.

Before the French consolidated the region and added that pesky “s” to the name, there were three separate Lao kingdoms. One of them just so happened to be the Kingdom of Champasak, seated in the town that still bears its name.

It may be hard to believe this lazy village once hosted royalty. But while it lacks anything approximating Pakse’s Champasak Palace Hotel, there are faded reminders of greatness to explore.

Some of Champasak’s grandeur remains in the colonial buildings, stained by the weight of time and humidity, that line the main road. Enjoy the atmosphere conjured by these shadows from the past as you relish a slow meal of laap, sticky rice, and Beer Lao at one of the many delightfully mellow riverside restaurants.

The Main Attraction

Champasak boasts something else unique in southern Laos: a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins of Wat Phu Champasak straddle the mountains and the Mekong plain 7 miles south and west of town on the main road.

If you’re planning a visit to Angkor Wat later in your trip, Wat Phu is the perfect prelude for what you’ll see there. Travelers who have already been to Angkor will appreciate the elevated location of these ruins. Wat Phu affords impressive views, something you don’t often find at Angkor.

This temple complex served as the spiritual nexus of an ancient culture as early as 2,000 years ago.

Centuries later, Champasak became part of the vast Khmer empire, and you’re sure to note the similarities between the sculptures and carvings here and those at Cambodia’s world-renowned site. If you look closely, you can see remnants of the pilgrimage route that once connected the two.

Today, Wat Phu invites you to relive the experience of a devotee as you ascend the stone staircases scented with sweet frangipani blossoms that connect the site’s multiple levels.

Along the way, you’ll pass statues decorated in saffron robes and fresh flowers, perhaps with a group of monks in attendance.

From the top level, it’s possible to look back over the entire complex, further out across the colorful plain, and eventually to the Mekong shimmering in the distance.

Each year, the ruins are overrun with local revelers during the Bun Wat Phu Champasak. Sporting events, Buddhist ceremonies, and live music abound at this popular festival.

If your visit happens to coincide (festival dates are determined by the lunar calendar and usually fall in February), book your Champasak accommodation well in advance. At other times of the year you’re likely to have the place to yourself.

Other Sights and Activities

photo by Hal Amen

While it’s a safe bet any visitors to Champasak have come for Wat Phu, other nearby sights reward travelers who choose to linger. For an active temple, check out Wat Nyutthitham one block west of the main drag.

There’s another wat north of the circle where the ferry docks, and yet another can be found about 5 miles to the south, past where the road curves toward Wat Phu.

More Khmer ruins are on display at Um Muang, downstream a piece on the opposite bank. To get there, hire a boat from Champasak for around $10 round-trip. Floating lazily along the Mekong is half the fun.

The flat dirt roads around Champasak are great to explore on your own. Most guesthouses rent out bicycles, and some have motorbikes.

Follow any path and you’re sure to come upon conical-hatted farmers at work in green fields, laughing Lao children, and maybe a water buffalo cooling off in a mud puddle.

Arriving and Departing

Champasak, located just off well-traveled Highway 13, is a breeze to reach. Buses from points north and south travel this road and will probably drop you at Ban Lak 30, a couple miles east of the Ban Muang docks. You shouldn’t have any trouble arranging local transport to cover this distance.

Unless you specify otherwise, your boatman will ferry you a mile or so north of Champasak’s traffic circle. The standard crossing runs less than 10,000 kip ($1).

Alas, the heyday of boat travel in southern Laos is over, and the slow boat connecting Pakse to the Si Phan Don island of Don Khong seems to have been discontinued. Private boats can still be chartered (expensively) in Pakse for the journey to Champasak if you so desire.

Circle of Asia’s “Vat Phou Cruise” package is a roundtrip between Pakse and the Cambodian border, with onboard accommodation.

From Thailand, use the border crossing east of Ubon Ratchathani. Despite its continuing obscurity, there’s also a crossing with Cambodia at Voen Kham. Embassy employees, guidebooks, and tour operators alike may tell you it’s not possible to purchase a visa upon exit/entry, but this author had no trouble doing so.

Your best bet is to arrange transport through a guesthouse on your way down, or in Stung Treng, Cambodia, if coming the other way. As always, check with passing travelers for the latest updates.

Guesthouses and Restaurants

photo by Hal Amen

Champasak guesthouses offer a variety of accommodations, from the standard $3 fan bungalow to larger, indoor rooms with A/C, private bath, and hot water for up to $15. Try to find one with a nice seating area facing the river, where you can string a hammock and contemplate the Mekong’s swift current.

In addition, most of the guesthouses have attached restaurants. The one associated with A Nou Xa Guesthouse, north of the fountain circle, serves carefully prepared and deliciously authentic Lao cuisine, with an atmosphere that can’t be beat.

Cash and the Net

There are no banks between Pakse and Stung Treng, so remember to conduct any necessary financial business before striking out. U.S. dollars are sometimes accepted, Thai baht less so—it pays to stock up on kip.

A couple houses (one just south of the circle) advertise Internet connections, but this is nothing more than a local’s personal computer. Rates are twice what they are in Pakse.

Fewer services means more time for relaxation. Enjoy it while you can!

Community Connection!

Many Matador members have a soft spot for Laos. Check out Matador contributor Justin Landrum’s guide to Muang Ngoi Neua, maybe the chillest backpacker hideout in all of SE Asia.

TravelFish, an online resource dedicated to SE Asia travel, has an excellent Champasak travel guide.

Nomadic Matt recommends Southern Laos in his excellent list of 8 ways to get off the SE Asian tourist trail. Your faithful editor Tim Patterson fell in love with Lusty Luang Prabang. Although his profile is a little sparse, Robb Cadwell knows more about Laos than just about any Westerner.

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Photo by Matthew Kepnes

In Southeast Asia, all roads lead to Bangkok, and for most backpackers, Bangkok means Khao San Road. Khao San is the first stop on the Southeast Asian tourist trail, which loops through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia.

You could follow the tourist trail to Chang Mai, float down the river to Luang Prabang, cross over the mountains to Vietnam, dip into Cambodia, and finally head back to Bangkok, hitting all the major tourist stops along the way.

Or maybe you could follow the trail south to Krabi or Ko Phi Phi, rock out under the Full Moon on Ko Phan Ngan and go diving in Ko Tao. Maybe you’ll even drop into Malaysia. Maybe not.

But why stick to the major sights? Sure, places like Angkor Wat and Luang Prabang are famous for a reason, but unique and memorable experiences await if you take the initiative to explore a bit further than the average backpacker.

Here are 8 fresh ideas for how to get off the Southeast Asian tourist trail.

Bike the Mekong River.

Many tour operators offer cycling trips through the Mekong delta. This is a more adventurous way to see the area than the typical bus/boat package tour option.

photo by Matthew Kepnes

Bike tours take you off the main roads and along dirt tracks in the rice paddies. You feel less like a tourist being shuttled from attraction to attraction, and more like a traveler, exploring at your own pace.

I had a great experience with Delta Tours. But if you are an experienced biker, why not do it yourself?

Editor’s Note: Check out Hal Amen’s excellent guide to cycling Highway 1 in Vietnam.

Visit a National Park in Vietnam.

Most people travel to Vietnam and do the typical nature tours of Halong Bay, Sapa, and the Mekong Delta.

But Vietnam has a plethora of National Parks that allow each traveler to see what I think is the best part of Vietnam – its natural beauty. Most of the parks go unvisited by tourists, but offer rewarding scenery, excellent trails, the chance to spot rare creatures and a little bit of solitude from the masses.

Editor’s Note: Matador’s Vietnam expert knows a great deal about the National Parks of Vietnam, especially in the North.

Check out the temples in Lopburi, Thailand.

Those seeking historical ruins in Thailand tend to focus on the two main sights: Ayuthaya and Sukkothai. While Lobpuri doesn’t compare to these places in terms of grandeur, there are some really nice temples here that make the city worth a visit.

Most people come as a day tour from Bangkok but those who stay longer can experience a typical, rural Thai town. Enjoy the great night market by the train station, watch the school children socialize in the town center, and meander through the town and immerse yourself in small town Thai life.

Watch out for the hyperactive troop of monkeys that roam the city. They are known to grab things right from your hand!

Chill out in Kep, Cambodia.

photo by Ross Borden

This quiet French colonial town is a nice alternative to Sihanoukville, the fast-paced, party capital of Cambodia’s beach scene.

Kep’s beaches are peaceful and you won’t find as many people here. You can get to Kep by detouring to Kampot instead of going straight to Sihanoukville from Phnom Penh.

Be sure to make the trip out to Koh Tonsay, or Rabbit Island, where there are basic bungalows and locals serve up fresh seafood dishes like shrimp or crab with local cracked pepper sauce.

Editor’s Note: I love Kep. The best place to stay is Le Bout de Monde.

Explore the Northeast of Thailand.

Sometimes referred to as Isaan, this area is mostly rice paddies and dusty towns. The Northeast is the poorest region of Thailand and also the least touristed.

Most people don’t speak English here and there are few major attractions, but the area holds a friendly, laid-back charm and gives you a unique view of rural Thai life. The roads are unpaved, the towns have few tourist services, and you certainly won’t find any posh hotels, but you will experience Thai life at the local Thai price. For those looking for the real Thailand, you’ll find it in Isaan.

Editor’s Note: Ryan Libre has spent a lot of time in Isaan – check out his recent podcast at the travelers notebook.

Escape to a Random Thai Island.

photo by Ross Borden

Ko Phi Phi, Samui, Phuket, Ko Chang, Ko Tao…you’ve heard the names. They are all amazing islands, but also some of the busiest in Thailand. Secluded beach life is hard to come by on these developed islands.

If you really want peace and quiet, find a random island. Thailand has hundreds of islands, and although most have some form of tourism infrastructure, if you make the effort to catch one extra ferry or visit a place that isn’t in the guidebook, you just might find your paradise.

For example, Ko Chang is surrounded by a large chain of islands, and although most are private and used for dive trips, there are many that most people never even think to visit.

Down south near Malaysia there are many undeveloped islands, too. Thai beach paradise is out there, it just takes a little effort to find it.

Looking for an quiet island? Ask Voralak, a Matador contributor who lives in Bangkok and just published a Backpacker’s Secret Guide to the island of Trang, Thailand.

Meander through Southern Laos.

Most people tend to skirt through Laos, hitting the major destinations before crossing into Vietnam or looping back to Thailand.

The typical backpacker sees Vien Vieng, Vientiane and Luang Prabang – all of which are heavily touristed. There isn’t much to do in Laos and the road is pretty rough, so most people skip over the really exciting part of the country – the south.

Don’t miss a chance to check out this area, especially the amazing Bay of Islands, a large expanse of the Mekong River with over 4,000 islands to explore.

Who knows, maybe you will see the famous pink dolphin before it goes extinct!

Editor’s Note: Check out this Backpacker’s Secret Guide to Champasak, a chill temple town in southern Laos. Can’t quite make it to the south? Go to the organic farm outside Vien Vieng!

Seek Adventure in Sarawak, Malaysia.

Sarawak is rugged Malaysia. Most people follow the Southeast Asian tourist trail from Thailand to mainland Malaysia and on to Singapore. Some make the effort to cross over to Sarawak, but the mountainous region still feels remote.

If the Malaysian mainland is an interstate expressway, Sarawak is a small side highway. Those who take the initiative to explore Sarawak will find deep jungles and unexplored mountains. Want to channel your inner Joseph Conrad? Sarawak is the place.

Editor’s Note: Check out islandhapa’s awesome blog about participating in a tattoo convention in Sarawak (which is on the island of Borneo, by the way).

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are backpacking in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

Justin88 is traveling in South East Asia until he runs out of money, currently bound for Malaysia. Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

For up to date travel guides and guesthouse reviews, be sure to check out TravelFish, our favorite resource for trip planning in Southeast Asia.

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

photo by denisema4, creative commons

Recently, some friends asked me to recommend a Caribbean island getaway that would put them beyond the reach of the cruise ship crowds while keeping them within their modest budget.

They wanted to go somewhere lesser-known, somewhere that wasn’t arduous to reach but felt like light-years from home—a place where they could wash all the woes of the world away with tropical cocktails, plenty of beach time and a dollop of Caribbean culture.

Without hesitation, I told them to go to…

Jost Van Dyke.

Nestled in the Virgin Island archipelago some 1,100 miles southeast of Miami lies the former Dutch pirate haven of Jost Van Dyke (pronounced “yost”), named after the obscure marauder who used it as a base for his illicit activities.

This eight square-mile island in the British territory has volcanic origins and a rugged landscape graced by some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world. The approximately 150 inhabitants take great pride in keeping their island outside the boundaries of time.

As a Virgin islander myself, I can tell you that Jost Van Dyke (JVD) is the place where those of us who have already escaped the rat-race go when we want to escape completely.

Stress Free Zone

photo by denisema4, creative commons

The relaxation capital of the Caribbean is Ivan’s Stress Free Bar at White Bay.

Imagine a mile of soft, plush, white-sandy beach coupled with electric-blue water.

Tall, svelte palms watch over the paradise like loyal sentinels determined to keep any reality spoilers from robbing you of your timelessness; hammocks sway; a tree-swing dangles; waves gently lap the shore–there are bikinis–and no one is behind the bar.

Wait a minute! No one behind the bar? Now, what’s so stress free about that?

No one is behind the bar because at Ivan’s, you make your own drink and record it in a ledger á la the honor system. There’s no chance of getting stressed out because your drink wasn’t strong enough or the barkeep wouldn’t make eye contact.

Ivan’s Stress Free Bar is a one-of-a-kind hangout. The insides are decorated with seashells as wallpaper and photographs of revelers. Live music can break out anytime.

If you are a Kenny Chesney fan, you’ll be interested to know that this is the famous Ivan Kenny sings about in the song, “Somewhere in the Sun”. In fact, Ivan’s Bar is the setting for Kenny’s video, “No Shoes, No Shirt, No Problems”.

Ivan even offers equipped and bare camping sites, as well as cabins. Up the hill, Ivan has a comfortable guesthouse for rent with A/C. He throws a traditional West Indian BBQ on Thursdays only, but meals can be found down the beach within walking distance.

Beyond The Bar

For travelers who don’t want to drink their entire holiday away, JVD offers plenty to do away from the bar. There’s no shortage of snorkeling and SCUBA opportunities, mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, sailing, bone-fishing, and one should not miss a visit to the natural wonder known as the “Bubbly Pool.”

This is a tidal pool with a narrow opening to the sea that catches any big swell and harnesses its energy through the opening to create a million tiny bubbles that tickle the skin in a whirlpool effect.

In addition to activities on JVD, one could easily visit the numerous enchanting islands that make up the US and British Virgin Islands via the convenient ferry network.

There are camping facilities on Jost Van Dyke, Anegada, Tortola, St. John and St. Croix.

Shelter

Various accommodations await at White Bay from bare campsites to luxury villas on the hillsides.

White Bay Campground (Ivan’s)–Equipped campsites for $35.00 ($25.00 in summer); bare Campsites for $15.00; Cabins for $50.00 to $60.00 ($40.00 – $50.00 in summer). All with shared kitchen and rest room facilities.

Vittles

photo by denisema4, creative commons

White Bay has no shortage of eateries. Several places exist to cater to your savory needs from burgers to four-course dinners.

Expect to pay $6-12 for breakfast and lunch and up to $32 for a four-course candlelit dinner at the Sandcastle Hotel. That is, of course, at the extravagant end of the spectrum.

A short taxi ride away ($10) is Foxy’s Tamarind Bar at Great Harbour where you can find a comparable range of plates as described above.

Nocturnal

It is impossible to know which nights will be lively and which ones mellow here. The best bet is to go on a walkabout beneath the stars and beside the waves and look for the lights and listen for the music.

One thing to count on is the above Foxy’s Tamarind Bar which has a crowded dinner rush and a consistent lively atmosphere, often with live music. You will be more than content no matter what you find; just accept the night for what it is.

Diurnal

With a 1,054-foot peak, numerous hidden coves, coral reefs galore, perennial trade winds and clear water, water all around; there is no shortage of activities to help purge the previous night’s indulgences from your pores.

A couple of adventure companies are there to satisfy your need to explore. Sea and Land Adventure Sports—Located in White Bay, this outfit offers a comprehensive selection of bikes, kayaks, boats and the like.

Jost Van Dyke SCUBA and Eco-Adventure Tours—Located in Great Harbour, this outfitter has a fuller list of options and a website that is worth a look.

Getting In and Out

While JVD feels like a world-away, it’s actually rather accessible without incurring great expense. The regional hub of St. Thomas (STT) is one of the cheapest places to fly into in all of the Caribbean.

My friend flew recently from LAX to STT for under $350 R/T with only one stop on Spirit Airlines.

I have seen fares for under $50 each way from Ft. Lauderdale on this airline. I can hook you up with great fares through my website.

Once on STT, you’re only a ferry ride (or two) away from complete escape. There are two ferry terminals on STT: Charlotte Amalie (CA) is a five-minute cab ride from the airport and Red Hook (RH) is about 30-40 minutes.

Pay attention to where your ferry is going from and to; some of the islands have numerous terminals and going to the wrong one can mean a long (and costly!) cab ride to the part you want to access. Here are ferry schedules throughout the US and British Virgin Islands.

A direct ferry goes from RH to JVD and back on Fridays/Saturdays/Sundays. For all other travel days (or if those times don’t work), it is best to go from CA to West End, (WE) Tortola and then transfer to a ferry to JVD.

And that works going the other way, too. Just check out the ferry link above and work it out. A roundtrip ferry ticket to JVD from STT will cost you between $50-$70 plus a $5 departure tax upon leaving JVD. The journey is 45 – 90 minutes depending on transfers and customs.

One More Thing

Both the US and British Virgin Islands use the US Dollar as their official currency and it is important to note that while Americans don’t need passports to travel to the US Virgin Islands, They DO need one to enter the British Islands. No visa required in either case.

For more information, visit www.jostvandyke.com and www.bviwelcome.com

Photo by Horizon

A lot of people laugh when I suggest they consider Iran as the destination for their next holiday. Many think I’m joking, or just plain crazy, but I tell them that I’m totally serious.

The few people who have made the journey to Iran don’t laugh – they rank it among their favorite countries in the world to visit.

After 10 trips to Iran during the past few years, there are clearly many things about this most misunderstood of countries that keep calling me back. If you are looking to get off the well-trodden trail, I say head for Iran.

Here’s why:

1. The People

photo by Horizon

Iranians have a centuries old reputation for being a very hospitable people, especially when it comes to foreign guests. This dates back to a time when nomadic people roamed the Middle East and Central Asia.

The hospitality tradition has only intensified in recent years, and with so few Western travelers coming to Iran these days, many who do go are overwhelmed by the warm welcome.

For citizens of the United States who are wary of our government’s relationship with Iran, I can say that Iranians have a more favorable view of Americans than ANY of the other twenty nations I’ve visited since 9/11.

2. Amazing History

The Persian civilization is one of the oldest civilizations on earth and there are reminders of that great history scattered all over the country.

Whether it’s archaic and abandoned ruins dotting the sides of highways, or the ubiquitous call to prayer, visitors will experience a very ancient land with a vibrant and vital society.

UNESCO has granted World Heritage status to several locales in Iran, including the city of Esfhan, which many refer to as a “Middle Eastern Florence,” and the ruins of Persepolis, where Alexander the Great defeated the Persians in 334 BC.

3. Nature

photo by Horizon

Iran is a very large country and is home to some of the most varied landscapes in the world. For adventure travelers, all that separates you from skiing and scuba diving on the same weekend is an hour-long flight.

Iran boasts vast desert and forest areas. Several endangered animals roam Iran, including the Asiatic cheetah, and the country is one of the biggest fruit growers in the region.

4. Getting Around is Easy

With an airport in every decent sized city in Iran, and government subsidized airfare, getting around Iran is easy. Extensive railroad and bus routes are also available, making all parts of Iran truly accessible to travelers.

5. Iran is affordable

Inflation in Iran is soaring, but your dollar will still get you much further there than in most other top destinations. For the trip of a lifetime, it’s a bargain.

6. Untouched

photo by Horizon

There are so few tourists traveling to Iran that it could feel like a lonely place if not for the Iranians’ warmth and their inviting nature. This characteristic makes it possible to truly connect with the people of Iran and their history.

7. Breaking Stereotypes

By visiting Iran, you are making two statements: “I am my own person,” and “I will inform myself about the world.”

Iran has been demonized for decades, but nearly all people who travel there come home with their stereotypes shattered, replaced by fond memories of gracious hosts and unforgettable landscapes.

Community Connection!

The gorgeous photos that accompany this piece were taken by Horizon, a Matador member from Abadan Iran.

Malbec and Mountains. Photo by Nicole Heyman

After a week in Buenos Aires dancing the tango and discovering just how delicious a malbec can be, it’s time to head to Mendoza to visit Argentina wine country.

Mendoza produces what is widely considered the best malbec in the world. Even though tons of foreign investment has poured in over the last few years, the commercialization of wine tourism has not yet caught up with the newfound popularity.

Visiting wineries in Mendoza is still an adventure, with the possibility of getting up close and personal with the winemaking process. Walk through the madness of crush during the peak of the harvest and you can see, touch, and taste the grapes as they make their transformation into wine.

Arriving In Wine Country

An overnight bus or quick 1 1/2 hour plane ride from B.A. will leave you face to face with the dramatic snow capped Andes. This towering mountain range protects the vines, while the runoff from its peaks irrigates the arid land.

Head straight to Aristedes Villanueva, the nexus of happening hostels and outdoor restaurants. Damajuana Hostel is a good pick for its clean, bright rooms; nice sized pool with adjoining ping pong table; attentive and friendly staff; and overall festive atmosphere (50 pesos/ $15 USD per night). Other guesthouses to consider are Break Point and Itaka House.

Wine Tasting Time

Start your wine education at Vines of Mendoza in the center of town, where you can sample a selection of the region’s best. The tasting room here gives a solid introduction to the Mendoza wine scene through guided pours.

I opted for ¨Los Malbec,¨ (45 pesos) a side-by-side tasting of the region’s infamous grape produced in 5 different styles. Continue tasting at Winery, a cooperative chain wine store, started in Buenos Aires.

Located just off the main plaza in a charming colonial building, one of the few that survived the devastating 1861 earthquake, Winery has a hip restaurant and a new center called ¨wine point¨ which focuses on tastings and seminars.

Further Afield

Photo by longhorndave

The route around Mendoza to visit wineries can be large and overwhelming, but with the right map and a bit of planning, it is easily navigable.

Splurge on the wine map, ¨caminos de las bodegas,¨ (30 pesos) found at any main wine store to begin planning your tour. You´ll find a set of 3 maps conveniently breaking down the three main wine destination areas: Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu, and Valle de Uco.

Plan on fitting 3 to 4 wineries into a day’s visit, since each bodega tour lasts an hour to an hour and a half. Many wineries are open to the public without reservation, but it’s best to call at least a day ahead to secure a booking.

You don´t want to make the same mistake I did, showing up to a winery ready for a day of fun only to be rejected by a gun-toting guard at the front gate.

Lujan de Cuyo

Begin your wine tour in Lujan, the closest region to Mendoza city, and the one with the highest concentration of quality wineries, not to mention the sunniest climate.

Wake up early to watch the clouds part over your first vineyard stop of the day, perhaps a traditional style adobe winery like Hacienda de la Plata or Lagarde. These historic buildings are rare since most were demolished in the earthquake, and new regulations don´t permit building with adobe.

For a stellar tour make your way to the larger production Tapiz winery. After a horse-drawn carriage ride through the vines, veteran tour guide Caroline will bring you into the vineyard to taste the difference between the ripe berries of malbec, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and merlot; show you how their leaves vary in shape and color.

The tour ends with tank samples of juice that is in the process of being fermented into wine.

After two wine tours and an early morning buzz, it’s time for lunch, and several bodegas offer a sumptuous feast. My favorite, Ruça Malen, serves a 5 course gourmet interpretation of traditional fare, paired with their line of malbec, in the middle of the vineyards. Only a glass wall separates diners from the surrounding vines (90 pesos).

The Best Wine In Mendoza?

The author working in a Mendoza winery. Nicole Heyman

Achaval Ferrer produces the region’s highest scoring wine, and is also regarded by tourists and locals alike as the crème de la crème.

Here you will see the specially selected grapes gravity-fed into all-cement tanks. Their philosophy is that cement gives the most consistent temperature control, where open fermentation is conducted to bring out all of the flavors of the wine.

Even though they are in the heart of an area subject to hailstorms, the Achaval Ferrer team would rather risk losing all of their crop one year, than reduce the amount of sunshine — and therefore potentially the quality of the grape — by installing protective netting.

High standards and an excellent tour complete with barrel tasting of their exclusive wines make this winery an absolute must visit.

Round off the day with another version of ultra modern at Pulenta Estate. Here they employ all three methods of fermentation–barrel, tank, and cement—depending on the desired style and vintage.

Although once inside you might feel like you are on a space ship surrounded by aliens instead of in a tasting room surrounded by barrels, a sip of their ripe and clean sauvignon blanc will bring you right back down to earth.

Alta Vista, Vistalba, and Catena Zapata are other noteworthy wineries to visit in Lujan de Cuyo for their architecture and tasting rooms.

Maipu

For day two of wine touring, change the pace by throwing a bicycle into the equation. This is easy in Maipu where vendors have created bike and wine tours.

Since the wineries in Maipu are fewer and the area to cover less vast, biking is an ideal way to get around. The roads are scenic, especially those just off the main drag of Urquiza, lined with trees that once acted as a shady cover for the grapes being transported to and from the winery.

The streets can get a bit dusty — after all this is the desert — so go prepared with lots of water, sunscreen, and sunglasses.

A smart plan of attack for the day is to rent your bikes at the beginning of town where the bus lets you off (a 45 minute ride on #10 from city center), then head straight to the far end of Maipu. This way you limit your mileage the more you drink.

Start at Carinae, a quaint boutique winery owned by a French couple, and named after a constellation only visible during grape harvest. From here, it’s only a short journey down the road to Tempus Alba, where you can sit outside and enjoy some artisanal cheese and wine perched atop the vines at their outdoor terrace wine bar.

Many bikers dine at the gourmet Almacen del Sur, conveniently located in the middle of the bike route. I opted for Casa de Campo, a small country style restaurant serving home-made local fare like wild rabbit and suckling pig.

If you´re thirsting for more, La Rural is a grand old winery back at the beginning of Maipu with an extensive wine museum, where you can witness the revolution in technology and winemaking from a century ago.

Valle de Uco

Photo by ANOXLOU

Valle de Uco is about an hour south of Mendoza by direct bus, and is considered the up and coming wine region. The valley is known for greater temperature variation between day and night, creating thicker grape skins and in turn more complexity in the wine.

Many wineries have vineyards in all three regions, as a sort of security against hail and poor vintages. It’s common to create a blend from the different regions, although estate-single vineyard wines are also coming into fashion, catering to a discerning clientele.

Three state of the art wineries worth visiting for their striking architecture and wine are Andeluna, O´Fournier, and Salentein. Keep in mind that the distances between these wineries are great, so you´ll need a car or taxi to get around even if you bus it down to the Valle.

The perfect marriage between food and wine always discussed in culinary circles is brought to life at O´Fournier where the owner of the bodega is married to the chef of the restaurant. Needless to say, the food and wine pairing here is harmonious.

Salentein also boasts an excellent restaurant. Once you’ve completed a day in the Valle de Uco, you’ve covered the best of Mendoza wine country. You can return to wherever you came from full and buzzed, with back vintages of wine that would never show up at a wine store back home.

Community Connection!

For more on sipping vino in Mendoza, check out Christian Denes’ article on MatadorTravel, Mendoza’s Secret or for a comical take on Maipu’s ‘wine and bike’ tours, check out this blog. Mendoza is also the jump-off place for big adventures such as rapelling, climbing Mt. Aconcagua or skiing in nearby Las Leñas.

For the very latest on Matador in Argentina, check out our Destinations section.

photo by Eve Hyman

Buenos Aires, city of faded elegance and resurgent culture. You couldn’t be more thrilled to plunge into the place everyone is talking about, but there’s one problem:

You only have 5 days.

Never fear, hit and run traveler. Here’s the crash course to a city with some of the world’s greatest nightlife, cafes and dining.

Day 1:

You’ve been traveling for hours. You almost broke the door of the flimsy taxi that dropped you at your short-term rental apartment in Palermo. You’re exhausted, hungry, and Delta misplaced one of your bags.

But tonight is your first night in Buenos Aires. You grab a nap and a shower and order a steak at the café next door. You’re itching to experience some of the best in Latin American nightlife.

It’s Wednesday and you’ve read about a notorious global hip hop party across the railroad tracks in Palermo Hollywood. You make your way to Niceto and hit the line at the door.

By midnight and you like what you see. There are hipsters in converse and skinny jeans, but they’re so much better looking here.

Beautiful People

By the time you graduate to the club entrance, you decide the stereotypes were all too true – Buenos Aires is full of beautiful people.

Inside, there’s a cumbia / emcee duo rapping along to a dubby, hip-hop version of the indigenous rhythm. They play toy keyboards with mouthpieces and employ masked disguises.

They’re followed by a female rapper, Princesa, who also rhymes to cumbia-infused beats. Then it’s Villa Diamante on the ones and twos and you’re intrigued by his choices, vowing to locate a mixtape online.

Niceto has a brilliant sound system and your friend who’s been living in Buenos Aires for the past couple of months convinces you to order a Fernet and Coke, a medicinal sort of herbal concoction.

The drink wakes you up and gives you a happy buzz.

At 3 am you hop in a cab to Recoleta. Rumi is good on Wednesdays and shows off a different side of Buenos Aires than what you experienced at Zizek. Bottle service and Brazilian models make for a nice contrast with the cumbia underground kids.

You last until about 4:30 at Rumi and, with the party in full swing, bow out for a well-deserved rest.

Day 2:

photo by Eve Hyman

You sleep in and make your way to Plaza Serrano for breakfast – fresh squeezed orange juice, a cappuccino and three croissants for the equivalent of $2.50 USD. You like it here already.

The plaza is more traffic circle than anything else, but it manages to afford some awesome people watching. There are cafes on every corner and crafts and clothing sold in the plaza and on the sidewalks.

There’s an easy sort of hustle to the area and it’s fun to walk around and try to get your bearings.

You’re in Palermo Viejo, on the Soho side of the train tracks, east of downtown. It’s said to be the hippest part of town and by the looks of the indie designer boutiques and the Diesel store on the corner, you agree.

You make your way down Gurruchaga to El Salvador street and then head to Plaza Armenia and the park – where there’s another outdoor fair with local artisans selling jewelry, pottery, and art.

You’re tempted by restaurants on every block and make a mental note to come back for as many meals as you can handle. By now it’s nearly noon – lunchtime for much of the world but not by Argentine standards.

Evita!

You still have a good couple of hours so you walk down Armenia toward the Botanic Gardens in Palermo Park. Nearby is the Evita museum and you’d like to cross that one off your list before you get completely immersed in the weekend.

You learn a lot about the feminine rights movement in Argentina, about Juan and Eva Peron’s particular brand of fascism, and about fashion. The new museum is an interesting combination of politics and show business, reminiscent of Ronald and Nancy Reagan, minus the greed.

You’re glad to erase the Madonna version from your consciousness and replace it with the country’s national heroine whose rags to riches legacy includes women’s suffrage, the national mobilization of workers, foreign diplomacy, and a post-mortem kidnapping.

Eating Well

All this learning has made you hungry. You hop in a cab and head back into Soho to Freud and Fahler for lunch.

Freud and Fahler is a charming, European café on Gurruchaga that has an amazing lunch special paired with the best white wine you’ve ever had. It’s a blend of Chenin and Chardonney and it tastes like cool, melted citrus.

You’re at a sidewalk table munching on bakery breads and some kind of spread that tastes healthy and rich at the same time.

After your organic greens and a risotto, the bill comes in just under $12 USD. You make your way back to the apartment for a siesta.

At 10pm you enter La Cabrera on Niceto and Serrano. You’ve been told it’s the best parilla in Palermo and you are ready to see what all the fuss is about.

The steak comes out on a chopping board with an array of vegetable accessories including marinated peppers, olives, pureed pumpkin, eggplant in olive oil, and baby red potatoes.

The caprese salad that seemed like such a good idea as a starter is now an obstacle for the task ahead of you. You do your best and are thankful your friends were smart enough to suggest you share entrees.

Latin Elegance, Bohemian Charm, Trashy Sex

The people at the table next to you were really friendly and suggest you join them for a drink. From La Cabrera, your group makes its way to Milion, a mansion-turned-bar in Barrio Norte.

Milion is elegant and exclusive. The drinks are impressive and you hang out on a balcony overlooking a large garden. From the street you never would have guessed this place could look the way it does – straight out of a 19th century Louisiana plantation.

The polo players and European expatriots are chatty, but after two rounds you decide to try Cocoliche, the downtown alternative to Milion.

A taxi drops you on a residential street and you have to ring a bell to get in.

It feels like trespassing as you make your way upstairs to the parlor where there’s an art exhibit by a local photographer. Then you head into the main room and the bar and you’re glad you left Milion.

This is what you came to South America for. Cocoliche is Bohemian and eclectic, in a European squat meets New York City’s Lower East Side kind of way. It’s random and entertaining in the bar where cool locals drink cans of Quilmes or Fernet-Cokes.

Downstairs a deejay plays to a dark room as the dance floor fills up.

Cocoliche is the perfect transition from Milion to the last stop for the night: Kim y Novak. A local recommends the spot as “fantastic trash” and claims it rivals London or New York for dirty chic.

At Kim y, a crowd similar to the one at Cocoliche and at Niceto spills out the door onto the sidewalk, drinks in hand.

You immediately notice the colorful, vinyl booths and artsy décor and the transvestite clique that occupies the middle of the bar. Downstairs in the cave there are deejays and action on the dance floor, despite signs that prohibit dancing.

There’s also plenty of action in the bathroom, apparently, from the long lines and socializing going on in front of the unisex doors. The entire place is sexually ambiguous and chaotic – it’s an entertaining end to a fun-filled night on the town.

It’s dawn when you realize you’re very close to your apartment. You stumble home and take your drink to go.

Day 3:

It’s Friday and you’ve decided to leave Palermo and explore old Buenos Aires. You’ve scheduled a walking tour of downtown and San Telmo. You meet your guide at Cafe Tortoni in Microcentro (downtown).

Alan Patrick is English and has been giving historic tours of downtown for the past couple of years. He shows you La Casa Rosada (Argentina’s White House) in Plaza de Mayo, site of the meetings of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo every Thursday afternoon.

The Madres organized a resistance and an official reckoning in response to the 30,000 disappearances by the Argentine dictatorship of the late seventies and early eighties.

They continue their work of searching for the remains of lost family members and their abducted children, and of holding members of the military regime responsible for their crimes.

Next, Alan leads you into the grand Cathedral of Buenos Aires off the plaza, then down Peru street past a number of milongas. The milongas are where tango shows take place, and some nearby murals depict the history of the tango.

Other murals tell of social protest and the rise of the labor unions that continue to hold influence over national politics.

You learn that Argentina has the second highest education rate of Latin America, just under Cuba. You pass a restaurant called Rey Castro and are surprised to learn that Fidel enjoys popularity in Argentina, alongside his compadre, national hero Che Guevara.

San Telmo

In San Telmo, you learn about the history of the conventillos. They are mansions that became tenement houses after yellow fever caused the city’s wealthy class to move to higher ground in Recoleta and Belgrano.

The aristocracy abandoned their property in the 19th century and newly arriving Italian and Spanish immigrants took over the large French homes and converted them to apartments.

You take a tour of El Zajon, the most famous conventillo, that includes secret passageways. Finally, you end up in Plaza Dorrego, the heart of San Telmo, where you peruse crafts and watch live candombe drummers accompanied by dancers.

More Deliciousness

Alan Patrick is a fan of the artisanal beer available at one of the cafes so you enjoy a stout brew with him before heading over to meet friends for a late lunch at Desnivel.

Rather than discouraging your stomach, last night’s meal has only made your craving for Argentine carne that much stronger. Desnivel is a world away from the formality of La Cabrera.

It’s a meeting hall sort of restaurant with a butcher’s case at the entrance and sausage links and other cuts of meet hanging from the ceiling.

You start the meal with the traditional chorizo appetizer and find it totally different from the Mexican chorizo you know. It’s more like the beef blend version of an Italian sausage. It comes with chimichurri, Argentina’s only use of spice, but you don’t need it.

This is the most flavorful piece of meat you’ve ever encountered and you understand why choripan, chorizo in a half baguette, is the man-on-the-street’s lunch of choice.

Your entrée, or plato principal, has a similar name but is an entirely different dish. A bife de chorizo is a great cut of steak. You’ve ordered the mini and it’s plenty along with the pure mixto, mashed potatoes and mashed pumpkin, plus a salad.

Lopez is the popular red wine blend of Malbec and Cabernet found in most restaurants in town. It is surprisingly good at $7 USD a bottle.

Strolling the Cobblestones

You have to walk off lunch so you wander through San Telmo peering in the windows of the antiques shops and walking through the Mercado de Antiguedades where stands and stores of collectibles include leather bags, vintage movie posters, chandeliers, jewelry, and rare books.

You pass the historic Bar Britanico, its utilitarian interior is night and day from the elegant Tortoni but rich in history.

You cross Brazil street and enter Parque Lezama just in time for a free concert in the park. There’s a local rock band and their fans join neighborhood families and couples seated in the open air ampitheater.

The sound is surprisingly good and the place is the perfect precursor for your plans for the night. You have tickets to see a band you like at a rock venue in Palermo. You head back to your apartment to freshen up before an 11pm dinner reservation in Palermo Hollywood.

Green Bamboo is a hip, Vietnamese-fusion restaurant and bar in the heart of Palermo Hollywood, a neighborhood named for the recent proliferation of TV studios on its streets.

The Belgian bartender at Green Bamboo makes you a fresh papaya and ginger vodka smoothie that sets the tone for the meal. You enjoy a seafood curry in a pop art setting that is just the counterpoint to your afternoon in San Telmo.

From Green Bamboo you hop a cab to Salon Pueyrredon to see Los Peyotes, a Buenos Aires, sixties style, garage rock band. The space is another old frenchie mansion but the walls have been painted red and the bar is legitimately punk rock.

The band hits the stage in fake fur vests and false saber-tooth necklaces with bowl-cut hairdos. They are amazing and the room is packed with pogo-ing Argentines. Deejays follow the band and the party goes until 6am when the crowd moves to the choripan stands on Sante Fe.

You aren’t able to pass up the choripan.

Day 4:

photo by Eve Hyman

You only have two more full days in the city but you’re a little run down from all you’ve been jamming in to your visit so you opt for a spa package. For $85 you spend over four hours being pampered and then sleeping in the sun.

You treat yourself to an hour and a half massage, a facial, and enjoy the sauna, pool, and rooftop solarium.

Afterwards, you walk over to the nearby Recoleta fair where you browse books and gifts in the ritzy part of town. It’s a beautiful Saturday afternoon – perfect for ice cream. Your tiramisu/lemon chocolate mousse cone is surprisingly like Italian gelato. This is a great day.

A Secret Restaurant

A month ago you made reservations for an underground restaurant you read about in the travel section of the New York Times. Casa Salt Shaker is one of the puertas cerradas, secret dining experiences available in Buenos Aires.

Chef and sommelier Dan Perlman and Host Henry Tapia open their home on weekend evenings to diners who choose to experience their themed, five course meals.

Tonight’s dinner is in homage to Henry’s hometown of Lima and to Veracruz, Mexico. It’s entitled “Aztec-Inca Face-Off” with dishes that might have been served in the respective empires. You opt for the additional wine pairing and learn about regional wines of Mendoza.

Ciudad Konex is your party destination following dinner. From Barrio Norte, it’s a ten-minute taxi ride to Abasto, home of the factory turned night club.

There’s a Balkan themed party tonight with the band “Kosovo Ska” and a tango/ baile funk orchestra performing live.

The main space is a converted parking lot with a stage, dance floor and bar. There are probably over a thousand people in attendance including the outdoor courtyard that has swings, a stairway and stage, and paper mache mushrooms.

Like in the other boliches and bars you’ve visited, the party at Konex goes until past dawn and includes deejays, projections, and friendly partygoers. The fiesta tonight is like an underground party or a rave, minus the heavy drug usage.

It’s a happy celebration and it’s hard to leave but you have one last place you want to try out before you go to bed.

Guevara, named for Che, is just off Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. There’s no sign but the mask and angel wings in the window is a dead giveaway. This ramshackle bar has an awesome crowd and draft pitchers for $1 USD.

There are two floors in a small space full of locals and travelers. You can order over the balcony of the second floor and the bartender hands your drinks up to you. It’s grimy and popular and you find the sidewalk in front of Guevara is a perfect place to watch the sunrise, urban Argentina style.

Day 5:

It’s your last real night out so you decide to go big and stay up in San Telmo for the morning Feria de Antiguedades. Your new friends from Guevara keep you company as your beers become morning coffee in the square.

Vendors set up stands in every inch of space and there are antique cameras, furnishings, hats, jewelry, and Peron memorabilia as far as the eye can see. Tango bands play in the street and tourists flock from every angle.

By noon, you’ve maxed out your capacity for people watching and souvenir shopping.

You get a cab to nearby La Boca to see the port and the neighborhood famous for its brightly colored houses along El Caminito. After lunch and more tango music, a taxi brings you to your apartment where you sleep for hours.

T-T-T-Tango!

You get up just in time to make it to La Viruta down the street in the basement of the Armenian Cultural Center. There, you enter the rec-room-like space that is the epicenter of Argentina’s tango circuit.

A group lesson at 8pm lasts nearly two hours while you pick up the basics and watch pairs of professionals in a skating rink-like setting. The time flies by while you’ve been mesmerized by the intimate performances in this casual setting full of singles and couples of every age and nationality.

You’ve never cared about any kind of ballroom dancing but at La Viruta you come to understand the hype and surprisingly, you’ve become inducted and emerge a tango fan.

Day 6:

Brazil is calling and you have to leave Argentina. On the way to the airport you have your last breakfast in Plaza Serrano and say goodbye to Buenos Aires, vowing to return for more steak, tango, culture, and nightlife.

The people you’ve met have made a lasting impression in a very short time. They really are beautiful, inside and out, and you’re sure you’ll be back soon for another visit.

Matador offers one stop shopping for planning your trip to Buenos Aires. Maybe shopping isn't the best term though, because all of our information is free. Here are some resources to get you started:

The 10 Best Places to Stay in Buenos Aires

Guide to Getting Laid in Buenos Aires

Top 10 Bars in Palermo, Buenos Aires

The Best Of The Buenos Aires Dance Scene

Best Trips: Argentina / Uruguay

Or feel free to get in touch with one of the many Matador members living in Buenos Aires right now.

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