Matador Trips

Top 10 European Cities to Stretch Your Dollar this Summer

28 Jun 2008 in Destinations, Urban by Craig Martin

Feature photo (Bilbao) by fabiovenni. Riga, Photo above by normis

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Looking for hot, affordable Europe this summer? Avoid the traditional centres and check out these great cities.

Bilbao

From the twisted metal of the Guggenheim Museum to the quiet courtyards nestled amongst apartment blocks, this Basque city in Northern Spain is a compact architectural gem: .

Relax in the city and munch down tapas and seafood accompanied by local wine; but if you feel like a spot of exercise Bilbao is also a great entry point for the lesser-known Northern route of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela.

Tallinn

Even in the middle of summer this northern-most Baltic city is not going to give you a hot reception, but its city walls encompass something unique.

Estonia is the only country in the world to deem internet access a basic human right and it is this aggressively forward-looking mindset that’s transforming the cityscapes into a fusion of medieval stone with steel and glass.

Bike tours of the city are recommended while the close of day is best enjoyed with a few shots of local spirit Vana Tallinn.

Riga

Popular with pre-wedding stag and hen parties arriving from Britain, it can be hard to look beyond Riga’s pub-crawl nightlife. The quiet hours of the morning, however, are perfect for wandering through riverbank parks, exploring the old town and admiring the Art Nouveau architecture which seems to rear at every turn.

The sun sets late during summer, so there’s still a stain of light at midnight. It’s a brilliant time to be at the stylish Skyline bar atop the Reval Hotel.

If you’re more at home in the forests than the bars, some of Latvia’s best hiking can be found in the Sigulda Forest Park just hours from the capital.

For more on Latvia, listen to the author’s podcast, Top 5 European Destinations for the Falling US Dollar.

Vilnius

Photo by txd

Walking through Vilnius is an experience not to be missed: it’s easy to happily lose yourself for quite some time. Turn one corner to find yourself on a riverside beach-front; another to be in an ex-KGB prison converted into an Occupation museum.

Perhaps the most disorientating moment is when you cross into Uzupis — the breakaway republic within the capital city. Or is it when you cross a street to see the world’s only Frank Zappa statue? I don’t know!

One thing for sure is that the view from the Cathedral spire helps you take in the city even if it doesn’t help you come to grips with its quirks.

Krakow

Photo by soylentgreen23

Leafy parks surround Europe’s largest town square: relax in a cafe, take in the churches and boutiques, then take a pleasant half-hour stroll to find yourself in Poland’s newest shopping centre.

Krakow is, in my mind, the best city Poland has to offer short-term tourists: relaxed yet energetic, it’s the perfect place to guzzle pierogi and beer. Krakow boasts a good number of hostels and railway “hostel finders” during the peak season to ensure no one has to miss out.

An important day trip from Krakow is the the WWII concentration camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau. Go by public bus rather than coach to save yourself enough money for a night’s accommodation.

Brasov

Coming to Romania? Do yourself a favour and head for the hills. Bus or train north of Bucharest into Brasov and you’ll find yourself in the heart of the Transylvanian countryside.

Visit imposing castles, walk leafy forests and scream as your driver slams on the brakes to avoid the horse and cart that’s just pulled out in front of you.

Brasov has modern cafes dotting its high street but explore further to find local restaurants where three course meals cost under €10. Kismet Dao hostel organizes independent castle tours for a great price.

Istanbul

Photo by whatcouldgowrong

From a street vendor’s pilaf to a carpet-seller’s tea this city is a sensory indulgence. Within Sultanahmet — the tourist district — you’ll find the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia, Basilica cisterns, Topikapi palace and more ancient ruins than you can shake a stick at.

Combine that with the constant clamour of touts and the heady mix of shopping in the Grand Bazaar for a winning formula. Take the time to speak with touts — make it clear you’re not going to buy anything and have a conversation: they have fascinating insights into people and places.

Vienna

Photo by nonanet

A city of culture, street art and coffee with a smaller financial footprint than Paris or Rome. Have a picnic in the grounds of Schönbrunn Palace, watch The Third Man before going to find the filming locations (or cheat and do a tour), or get cultural in the Museumsquartier.

There’s fantastic food from all over the world — including some of Europe’s best sushi in the Naschmarkt — but who’s going to leave the city without a Wiener schnitzel?

Budapest

Home of hot baths and hot clubs, this is a beautiful city with wonderful support for independent travelers. Whether you’re researching the history or discovering the nightlife, Budapest will meet your needs.

A myriad of bridges cross the river dividing Buda from Pest, while Margaret Island is home to lovely parks and relaxing bars. Under the streets lie kilometers of wine cellars to be explored: Hungary makes some terrific wines at great cost-to-taste ratios.

Cesky Krumlov

Perhaps the best place in this list is little-known Cesky Krumlov; and you couldn’t ask for a finer medieval town to appear out of your fairy tales. The river swings through the cobbled streets while the castle looks down on art galleries and cafes.

Whether you prefer exploring the castle and gardens or rafting down the Vlatava, make sure you stop for a local beer along with live music in the Gypsy Bar or, even better, a warm mead in the Two Marys during the cool of the evening.

Community Connection

Ready to hit the cities of Europe? Come on over! When planning flights within Europe I’d recommend looking at skyscanner, for train timetables the German Rail website.

Also, if you’re planning to travel at all by Eurail, check out or download my audio guide Everything You Need to Know About Traveling By Eurail Pass.

Finally, for direct connections to hundreds of travelers and local experts as well as organizations, volunteer opportunities and more on Europe, check out our destination Europe pages here at Matador

10 Things To Do In Europe That Will Make You Smarter

22 Jun 2008 in Uncategorized by Liv Hambrett

Feature photo by thomas-sommeregger Photo above by pete_the_painter

Combining academia with cultural immersion: surely this is the ultimate education? We strained our brains and came up with a list that balances lessons and leisure to turn you into a European scholar du jour.
1. Learn to sail a Yacht in Greece.

Improve your motor skills and hand eye coordination (all part of the overall smarts package) and learn to sail a yacht around Greece. Perhaps, just to get into the theme, pack Homer’s Odyssey or read up on Greek’s wonderful history.

What else are you going to do on the deck of a moored yacht, in the middle of the Mediterranean? For some ideas, check here.

2. Sit in Freud’s waiting room and peruse his books.

The museum itself is rather unsure of the best way of directing you around, but all you need to do to feel intellectual, is take a seat in the waiting room that launched an entire school of psychology. Select a book, sit back, and soak it up.

3.Take a turn about the Athenian Agora.

Once upon a time Athenians strolled through the Agora, did some shopping at the markets and caught up on each other’s news. Fast forward two thousand years later and you can do the same, minus the markets and minus the Ancient Greek.

If there is anywhere one should stroll around, pontificating, it is beneath the Acropolis and amongst world famous ancient ruins, upon which walked some of the greatest thinkers to ever live. You’ll be philosophizing before you know it.

4.Learn to cook in Sicily.
Photo by Ozchin

Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean basin, is famous for its citrus fruit, desserts and for being strategically placed in the trade routes throughout history.

Its cuisine is a fantastic fusion of cultural influences, from the various foreign populations that have surrounded and, at times, dominated it.

Spanish, Arab, Greek, even North African (in the far western corner) cultures have all had their part in the development of Sicilian cuisine, so why not learn how to eat like a King in a region of Italy that certainly knows how?

5. Stroll the hallowed grounds of Oxford, dipping into the Bodleian Library.
Photo by davemorris

It’s the oldest university in the English speaking world and has produced no less than 25 British Prime Ministers, 12 saints, a handful of actors and far too many writers to count (although, we could try … Lewis Carrol, C.S. Lewis, Oscar Wilde, John Donne, J.R.R. Tolkein …)

The grounds of Oxford buzz with braininess, so take a stroll and get smart by osmosis. If you’ve got time, pop into the Bodleian Library, the uni’s main research library and the second oldest in Europe. Tip: for those wanting to blend in, students call it The Bodley or just, The Bod.

6. Take a Creative Writing Course in Sardinia.

What better place to get inspired than the beautiful Sardinia. With scenery that will dissolve even the most stubborn writers block and Italian food galore to feed your inner creative genius, a creative writing course in Sardinia might just propel you to literary greatness.

7. Bow to the Humble Walking Tour in Berlin.
Photo by chrisdavis

When it comes to cities with starring roles in Modern history, Berlin is the Oscar Winner.

Swallow your pride and book into a walking tour. They’re free, comprehensive and incredibly informative.

The guides are passionate and multilingual and you will be moved to tears on the steps of the Old National Gallery during the final speech.

8. Perfect Your Palette with a Wine Tasting Tour in France.
Photo by max-all

Everyone wants to be the person people look to when ordering the wine for dinner, especially if you earned your (red, white and blue) stripes in France.

Book yourself into a Wine Tasting Tour in the land of Bordeux and Burgandy and improve your mind and your palette.

9. Brew your Signature Scent in Cologne.

Take a fragrant chemistry lesson and walk away with your own personal signature scent. Learn the art behind the making of perfume, the different families, and how to distinguish an eau de cologne from an eau de toilette.

10. Take The Pub Crawl of Intellectuals in Dublin.
Photo by chrisdavis

What if you could walk away from a pub crawl with your brain cell count not only intact, but potentially multiplied? Is that even possible, I hear you ask? Some of the best writers to have ever lived would argue, absolutely, so why not give it a go?

Follow the trail of literary luminaries and drink in their favourite watering holes as actors perform scenes from their most famous works.

So there you have it. Learn to sail, cook and write, whilst sampling the finest wines and walking in the footsteps of humanity’s finest thinkers, from Socrates to Oscar Wilde. Learn by osmosis or get your hands dirty, either way, you’ll be the person at dinner parties that everyone wants to talk to.

Community Connection

Looking to connect with other travelers or local experts in Europe? Check out the destination Europe page at Matador, where you’ll find links to hundreds of travelers, as well as blogs, volunteer organizations and opportunities, feature articles, and more.

Top 10 Places to Be On Election Night 2008

16 Jun 2008 in Destinations by Thursday Bram

“The bump heard round the world.” Eric Miller / REUTERS

For the 2004 election, my friends and I — despite an interest in politics — couldn’t think of a great place to spend election night. We decided to camp out in front of the television with two bottles of Boone’s Farm (one red and one blue) and do a shot of the appropriate colored drink.

Needless to say, that plan did not work out well, and I’ve spent the last four years trying to think up a better way to spend Election Night 2008.

1. Dixville Notch, New Hampshire

Dixville Notch, a town of just 75 people, is the first place in the U.S. to declare its results in every Presidential election. The entire town gets up and votes at midnight, allowing them to declare their results immediately.

There are a few other small towns that follow midnight voting traditions, but Dixville Notch has been doing it continuously since 1960. The results often lead the morning news on Election Day.

2. Bob Barr’s Headquarters, Atlanta, Georgia

Anyone with access will be trying to get into either Barack Obama or John McCain’s campaign party on Election Night. Odds are good that one of those campaigns will have reason to throw one heck of a shindig.

But the real party might be at the Libertarian candidate’s headquarters . A decent showing is all it will take to make Barr’s party cheerful. And Libertarians, as a rule, know how to throw good parties.

Photo by pingnews

3. The Green Zone, Baghdad, Iraq

The Green Zone may not be the safest place in the world to watch the U.S. election, but it may be one of the most meaningful.

Depending on the results of the election, the nature of U.S. involvement in Iraq may change beyond all recognition.

4. The Local College’s Watch Party

Any school with a political science department will be throwing some sort of watch party and will probably have some free pizza you can mooch while you’re at it.

Pick one where an actual poli sci professor will be in attendance — you’ll get far more colorful commentary than CNN can get past the censors.

5. Silver Reef Hotel & Casino, Ferndale, Washington

The Silver Reef Casino is not on this list for any particular merit of its own. However, it offers a particularly nice dinner about twenty minutes from the Canadian border.

If you’re planning an expatriate lifestyle if one candidate or another wins — I’ve already heard it from both sides! — you could stop worse places than Ferndale on your way to Canada.

6. Texas’ 22nd Congressional District, Houston, Texas

We forget sometimes that there will be other names on the ballot besides the Presidential candidates. All 435 seats in the House of Representatives are up for grabs, and Texas-22 will be the hardest race of them all.

Republican Tom DeLay, ex House Majority Leader who resigned because of corruption, gave up this seat in 2006 and it’s been a bone of contention ever since. Republican Pete Olson faces off against incumbent Democrat Nick Lampson.

Nobody’s willing to make a bet on who will actually win, and there are predictions that this will be a tough race for both candidates.

Mike’s Place. Tel Aviv. Photo by Chris-Yunker

7. Mike’s Place, Tel Aviv, Israel

Mike’s Place is a bar popular with both locals and expats in Tel Aviv, as well as American visitors.

It’s right next to the American embassy and is beach-front property if you need a break from the electoral count.

There’s no doubt that the next American president will have some opportunities to further the Middle East peace process, and the best place to hear about it is on the ground at Mike’s.

A word of warning — Mike’s was the target of a suicide bomber in 2003, so check the U.S. State Department’s advisories beforehand. A moving documentary was made about that night, Blues by the Beach.

8. Your Local Polling Place

Most precincts are still looking for election judges for the general election. You can sign up at the local board of elections and, depending on what state you live in, you can even get paid.

Talk about democracy in action — election judging gives you the opportunity to not only see how voting works but might give you the chance to count a few votes, too!

9. Old Hagatna Grill, Hagatna, Guam

If you want to watch the votes roll in from start to finish, you really should start at 6 p.m. EST. You’ll have a long night ahead of you, though: in 2004, George W. Bush wasn’t declared winner until 11:30 a.m. on Wednesday.

It makes sense to go to a time zone where breakfast occurs about the time the polls are closing. You don’t even have to leave American soil to do it. Guam is a U.S. territory and is on Chamorro Standard Time, where 6 p.m. translates to 9 a.m. ChST.

The Old Hagatna Grill, located in Guam’s capital, opens at 6 a.m. local time and it doesn’t close until 11 p.m.

10. The CNN Center, Atlanta, Georgia

The CNN Center acts as a hub for thousands of news sources. If you want to make sure that you get every little tidbit on the results of the election, the CNN Center is the place to be. You might even get the behind the scenes opinions of “The Best Political Team on Television.”

No matter where you plan to spend Election Night 2008, don’t forget to vote! If you’re planning on going out of town, make sure to complete an absentee ballot, available through your state’s website.

Community Connection

Interested in organizing a trip to one of these places or setting up a local watch party? Post a notice about it at Matador’s forum.

10 Things to do in Amsterdam BESIDES Smoking Pot

11 Jun 2008 in Couples, Urban by Marla Seidell

Feature photo by goulao Photo by rhoadeecha

Clear your head and get outside to explore Amsterdam like a local.

Contrary to Pulp Fiction lore, there’s more to Amsterdam than hash bars.

Coffeeshops are the shit for many an Amsterdam virgin, yet locals view them as tourist traps lacking in “gezelligheid,” or coziness, the cornerstone of Dutch culture. Smoking yourself into a coma at the Bulldog is just fine, but you’re going to miss out.

Follow these ten tips and you’ll do Amsterdam like a local.

1) Immerse yourself in art.

From Spui take tram 2 or 5 to Museumplein, where the Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum keep you occupied for hours.

View Van Gogh’s life through art, from the Potato Eaters up through the last two months of his life in France.

Holland’s Golden Age is the highlight of the Rijksmuseum. Don’t miss Vermeer’s Milkmaid.

2) Day trip it.

For an excursion, the 15-minute train ride to Haarlem is worth the trip.

Browse fashionable boutiques, visit the Gothic St. Bavo church, and walk to the Frans Hals art museum.

For eats, kick back at the spacious Café Brinkman (grandcafebrinkman.nl) on the square, and to top off the day, have drinks at Café 1900 (Barteljorisstraat 10) on the way back to the train station.

Photo by goulao

3) Drink up.

With more than 1200 intriguing pubs to crawl you’ll have more than your fill.

Start at the Heineken brewery (Stadshouderkade 78) to see how famous beer is produced. Check out Café Belgique to taste smooth Belgian brews like La Chouffe and La Trappe Dubbel.

Other standouts: gallery/bar Schuim (Spuistraat 189), Gollem, and In De Wildeman.

4) Night bike it.

Amsterdam is most romantic at night, when the city is aglow from lit up bridges and canals.

Start at Leidseplein and bike down Kerkstraat to the Amstel River, where you’ll find the Skinny Bridge in all its glory.

Cut across Waterlooplein to Jodenbreestraat, which takes you into Nieuwmarkt. Pay a visit to the Waag, a pub/restaurant that once formed the city wall, or brown bar Café ‘t Loosje (Nieuwmarkt 32-34).

Photo by katielips

5) Club it.

For pre-partying, head to Lux (Marnixstraat 403) Bitterzoet (Spuistraat 2), or Seymour Likely (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250) for live DJs.

Join the dance crowd at Mazzo (Rozengracht 114), Club More (Rozengracht 133), and Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8). For a laid-back vibe, check out Café Alto (Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115) for local jazz acts.

Photo by tylerdurden

6) Shop for treasures.

Walk the famous 9 streets (theninestreets.com), to pick up cutting edge fashion and eclectic wares.

Don’t miss Lady Day, which sells vintage and secondhand European fashion for a steal. Browse for a designer fragrance like Creed at Skins Cosmetics, investigate the Paul Frank Store , and get pampered at Spoiled, where you’ll be custom matched to a designer pair of jeans.

Photo by earcos

7) Do it like the Dutch.

Nothing says typically Dutch better than a hunk of Gouda stuffed in a fresh bread roll.

Savor this ritual by picking up a sandwich at Broodje van Kootje (Spui 28). Grab a newspaper at the Athenaeum bookstore across the way, and plunk yourself down on a bench in the square.

For another Dutch favorite, visit the Pannekoekenhuis, a tiny upstairs restaurant on the second floor of a narrow canal house. Dive into big pancakes, served sweet or savory.

8 ) Indulge, Indonesian style.

A former colony of the Netherlands, Indonesia now occupies Amsterdam, in terms of cuisine.

The rice table (a smorgasbord of dishes) is the name of the game but you can opt for the Nasi Goreng (fried rice) at Sie Joe.

For something more upscale, consider Tempoe Doloe, on the boutique-lined street, Utrechtsestraat or Puri Mas, located in the entertainment district of Leidseplein.

9) While the day away in a café.

At Café Zeezicht (Hoofdweg 456), people watch on the outdoor terrace, sipping a Dutch style latte and nibbling on the best apple tart in town. Brown cafes, named for their wooden interiors, are good for mingling with the locals.

Cafes not to miss: De Balie, Café De Tuin (Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 13), and Café ‘t Smalle (Egelantiersgracht 12).

10) Walk it.

Start at the eastern end of the Albert Cuyp street market in the ethnically diverse neighborhood De Pijp.

Peruse Dutch treats like fish, cheese, and chocolate among 300 stalls. Take a right on Ferdinand Bolstraat, then a left on Stadshouderkade.

Take a right at Spiegelgracht for a stroll in the antique district. Turn left onto Herengracht to see splendid 17th century canal houses. Make a right at Leidsestraat and go up to Singel.

Hit the Singel lunch Café (Singel 404) for homemade soups and baguette sandwiches.

8 Places To Experience Unspoiled China

8 Jun 2008 in Cultural Immersion, Fresh Ideas by David DeFranza

Feature photo by dbking Photo above by Luo Shaoyang

Choking on construction dust in the Chinese cities? Escape to one these unspoiled destinations.

Help spread the word!


When people dream of a trip to China, they imagine dramatic, mist cloaked peaks, the solitary and serpentine Great Wall, and small, alley neighborhoods functioning as they have for centuries.

Unfortunately, these things are becoming increasingly difficult to find as China continues to industrialize at an ever more dizzying rate. The pace and pollution of modern China often leaves travelers feeling frustrated and confused.

Still, there are many places that are, and likely will always remain, the very embodiment of a traveler’s fantasy. Following are eight of the very best:

Putuoshan

The small island of Putuoshan is a few hours by ferry from the mainland city of Ningbo, and only an overnight boat ride from Shanghai. Still, after coming from China’s congested coast, Putuoshan seems like another world.

The island is covered by temples, pagodas, and narrow, cobblestoned, streets. It is populated by monks, monkeys, and a few fisherman and ringed by their boats and the best beaches in northern China.

Putuoshan is an excellent and extremely accessible place to escape the hustle of the coast, and would make a perfect weekend getaway from Shanghai.

If you want more information on traveling to Putuoshan, a good place to start is this online guide.

Pingyao, Photo by spyderball

Pingyao

Located in central China, the small town of Pingyao makes an excellent stopover for travelers on their way to Xi’an.

Surrounded by a completely intact city wall dating to the Ming Dynasty, Pingyao allows the traveler to experience authentic imperial era architecture that has remained untouched by vigorous restorations and largely unspoiled by encroaching industry.

Certainly not unknown to tourists and travelers, Pingyao was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. Even though it can, at times, be crowded, Pingyao is an excellent place to get a taste of life in ancient China.

Xiahe

Located in northwestern China’s Gansu province, Xiahe is home to the Labrang Monastery, one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the world.

Often billed as a more accessible alternative to Tibet, Xiahe is, in fact, an excellent place to experience Tibetan culture in an intimate way.

The town is nestled in a mountain valley and though there has been some newer, Chinese-style, construction, the architecture is very much in a traditional Tibetan style.

Xiahe is very popular with foreign backpackers, but if the sound of familiar languages is getting you down there are numerous opportunities to escape.

Xiahe is a great jumping off point for further adventures, whether you are looking for an afternoon’s trek up a nearby mountain, or a multi-day overland journey through some of the most infrequently touristed terrain in China.

More basic information can be found at the Travel Guide China and, to get excited about visiting, check out this collection of photos.

Kanas Lake, Photo by Clemson

Kanas Lake

If you are looking to get as far away from the city, tourists, or people in general, as possible, than a trip to Kanas Lake is the answer.

Situated in the northern part of Xinjiang province, the lake lies close to the Russian border, amidst a landscape more characteristic of Siberia than the deserts of Xinjiang.

Getting to the lake is not easy. Without a prearranged tour, travelers must rely on one of the infrequent and irregular buses or a costly taxi.

Still, the trip to the lake itself, on a road that starts in the desert and climbs to grasslands and then into the mountains, is worth the effort.

Once there, visitors stay in one of several log cabins and can enjoy hiking, relaxing, and generally enjoying the natural scenery.

If you are lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the fabled “Kanas Lake Monster.”

Changbai Shan and Baihe

Changbai Shan is China’s largest nature reserve and offers near limitless opportunities for hiking and exploration. Located in the northeastern province, Jilin, Changbai Shan is an overnight train away from Beijing.

The closest town, which serves as a good entry point or base for day trips, is Baihe.

While not the most beautiful town in China, Baihe is small and relaxing, characterized more by its famous Meiren Song pine trees than its buildings and architecture.

If Baihe is not your style, or if you plan to spend several days in Changbai Shan, staying in one of the park’s guest houses may be the best option.

Though a little expensive by Chinese standards, these guest houses save a morning and evening bus trip, and allow you to explore less frequented areas of the park.

Lijiang, Photo by livepine

Lijiang and Tiger Leaping Gorge

You will not be able to spend much time in China before you hear the praises of Lijiang. Located in the southwestern province of Yunnan, the old town of Lijiang has been popular with backpackers for decades.

Lijiang is often used as a starting point for excursions to the villages of the many minority cultures populating the area.

In addition to this, the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge, which provides a scenic, three day, trek, is located just outside Lijiang. The trail winds through the gorge, one of the world’s deepest, offering some breathtaking and dizzying views, and passes by numerous lodges that provide food and accommodation.

The Tiger Leaping Gorge has been repeatedly threatened by hydroelectric development on the upper Yangtze River.

However, as of publication, all plans for development that would flood the gorge have been canceled. Still, it is well worth looking into before you plan a trip.

For a more detailed description of the trek, this personal account sums it up well.

Xishuangbana Region

Travelers coming from southeast Asia will feel right at home in Xishuangbana. Located in the deep south of Yunan province, the region is bordered by Laos and Myanmar. It is famous for its minority cultures, stilt houses, jungle treks, and lazy river cruises.

The central town is the uninspiring Jinghong, which serves as a base for journeys to the more picturesque villages surrounding it.

There are several buses that travel from Jinghong to the major outlying villages, but to find more secluded spots travelers take boats, rent bicycles, or even walk.

For more information about travel in Xishuangbana, visit this account of a bicycle trip through the region.

Tiger Leaping Gorge, Photo by livepine

Wenchang and Dongjiao Yelin

China is not often praised for its beaches. Much of the coastline of the mainland is, unfortunately, densely developed or features bleak views of industrial infrastructure.

However, finding a place for quality beach time in China is not impossible, and Dongjiao Yelin, a coconut plantation off Hainan Island, is the place to do it.

Dongjiao Yelin has slowly been attracting some resort development. Fortunately, most places have maintained a pleasant, relaxing, “thatched hut” style that has not tarnished the beautiful white sand beaches and clear blue waters.

The nearby town of Wenchang is the transportation link to the coconut plantation and beaches. Though it has a few of the “gray boxes” that characterize much of modern Chinese architecture, Wenchang is, for the most part, a small, quiet, town.

The best, most up to date, information on Dongjiao Yelin for budget-minded travelers can be found at the Haikou Banana Hostel.

Modern China is constantly growing and changing. Largely, this means it is about hustle and bustle.

If your travels in China are, or you fear they may become, more hectic and frustrating than enjoyable, give one of these destinations a try.

After a few days, you will forget all about the congestion and pollution, and rediscover what makes travel in China truly amazing: great food, ancient culture, and an incredibly open, friendly people.

Community Connection!

Some of Matador’s best writers and most inspiring people are currently in China. They include phishtopher, an anthropologist currently researching Tibetan narratives in western China and India, and sascha, a writer and shiftless hobo who survived the massive Chinese earthquake.

Thinking of studying in China? Check out the guide to study abroad in China over at the MatadorStudy blog.

For more reading on China, check out this collection of stories about China and Tibet.

Have you been to China? Did you discover any cool places? Share your travel tales by leaving a comment below!

6 Under-the-Radar Destinations In The Middle East

4 Jun 2008 in Cultural Immersion, Fresh Ideas by Benjamin Orbach

Siwa, Egypt, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Benjamin Orbach has lived in the Middle East for years. Here are his recommendations for hidden destinations off the beaten track.

The great pyramids of Giza, the pink facades of Petra, the blue minarets of Istanbul, and the storybook walled cities of Jerusalem and Damascus are some of the highlights that lure travelers to the Middle East.

If you make it to these postcard spots, you won’t go home disappointed.

But there is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Jerusalem called Rahmo, where they serve the best kubbe soup this side of an Iraqi or Kurdish grandmother’s kitchen.

And deep in the Western Desert, between the oasis of Siwa and Egypt’s border with Libya, there is a place where the stars shine brightly and rocket across the sky.

Whether you are traveling in pursuit of history, good food, nightlife, nature, spirituality, or the journey itself, here are six suggestions for lesser known stops across the Middle East that will make your trip truly one-of-a-kind.

Ancient Ruins

In Cairo, Egyptians boast of 7000 years of history. In Jerusalem, Israelis celebrated 3000 years of Jewish history. In Syria, both Damascus and Aleppo claim to be the oldest city inhabited on earth.

With great history come great ruins – the pyramids of Giza, the temples of Luxor and Karnak, the oval forum at Jerash, and Palmyra, Syria’s “bride of the desert.”

All of these ruins are fantastic, but to get off the tourist trail in your pursuit of history and magnificent ruins, visit St. Siman’s Basilica in northern Syria.

Dating from the 5th century, St. Siman’s is not as old as some of the region’s more notable sites, but its triple arched basilica is fantastic, a natural beauty actually – it hasn’t been restored.

St. Siman was a shepherd turned ultra pious priest. For 37 years, he stood atop a pillar and preached to the visiting faithful, who had heard of his righteousness from near and far and came in search of guidance and miracles.

The lack of tourists, the desert breeze, and the landscape views combine to make St. Siman’s serene.

While all that remains of the once 15 meter-tall pillar is a stone nub centered in the courtyard between the ruins of the four basilicas, the place is worth a visit.

The columns of St. Siman’s triple arched façade are crowned with elephant ear stone leaves that seem to blow in the wind.

The lack of tourists, the desert breeze, and the landscape views combine to make St. Siman’s serene. The site is an easy half-day trip from Aleppo, 60km away.

St. Simian carving detail, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Savory Food

The home of slowly roasted meat on a spit, cauldrons of freshly fried falafel, and bowls of humus and sweet olive oil, the Middle East is a foodie’s paradise.

Add to the mix mansaf, a communal lamb dish that you roll in your hand with rice and eat standing in a circle or maqlubeh, an upside down Palestinian rice dish with chicken, cauliflower, almonds, and spices, and you find yourself making Solomon-like decisions about what to have for dinner.

A lesser known contender to these delicacies is kubbe soup.

In the great tradition of savory ethnic dumplings that you’ve come to know and love (wontons, ravioli, and kreplach to name a few), kubbe are Iraqi-Kurdish pastries filled with shredded meat and spices, served in a choice of three different kinds of broth: tart vegetable, sweet tomato, and beet

Rahmo serves Jerusalem’s best kubbe soup and is an institution almost as old as Israel itself.

They probably have great kubbe soup in Iraq, but I don’t think it is worth the trip.

Instead, go to one of Rahmo’s two locations in Jerusalem.

Rahmo serves Jerusalem’s best kubbe soup and is an institution almost as old as Israel itself. The original Rahmo is around the corner from the Iraqi market in Mahane Yehuda, Jerusalem’s bustling open-air market in the center of town.

The restaurant is cafeteria style and its clientele are working class; the restaurant cut its teeth feeding workers their meal for the day. While it may be of the people, Rahmo’s food is fit for a king.

Ignore the smell of the kerosene burners and enjoy the kubbe soup, a full meal that borders on a holy experience. The new Rahmo is near Zion Square, on Yoel Solomon street, in the center of the city.

Istanbul, Golden Horn, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Nightlife

Conventional wisdom across the Middle East dictates that if you are looking for a party, you should go to Beirut or Dubai. Both are home to beautiful people who spend lots of money in clubs that will make your ears bleed until well past dawn.

On the other hand, I’m not sure anyone has ever gone to Amman to party. While Jordan sets the region’s standard for hospitality, the country is generally known for its quiet on the nightlife front. Some, who love the country less than I, have even called Jordan “boring.”

Make no mistake, if you are traveling to the Middle East for nightlife, Amman should not be your first choice. Still, if you’ve come to Jordan for Petra and Jerash, and you find yourself in Amman on a Thursday night, Nih is where you want to be.

Nih is where Amman’s wealthy Jordanian and Palestinian yuppies come to party. Behind a gigantic wooden door and down a flight of steps, there is a secret loungy world where beautiful people dance on tables and eat and drink to their hearts’ content.

Located around the corner from the Howard Johnson’s in Shmesani, be sure to arrive early (before 10) or you probably won’t get in. Prices for food and drink are reasonable, certainly better than what you would pay in Dubai.

St. Simian ruins, Syria, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Nature

Bedouin plodding through the desert under the hot mid-day sun, they lead their pack-heavy camels by a leather strap. No other image is more associated with the Middle East, than that of the desert. And nothing irritates the people of the region more than the preconception that everyone here rides a camel.

Surrounding the region’s deserts, there are crowded cities and small villages built on top of the remnants of great civilizations. And there are green spots and nature reserves, too, especially in the countries of the Levant – Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, and even Jordan.

Visit in the spring and catch the yellow, red, pink, and black wild flowers.

For nature lovers who prefer green to brown, and who are looking to get off the beaten path, head to the Golan Heights.

Prior to the 1967 war, the Golan was part of Syria; today, it is part of Israel. It takes less than five minutes in the Golan Heights to recognize the land’s beauty and value. The mountains are green, full of water, and overlook Israel’s largest water supply, the Sea of Galilee.

The strategic plateau is as close as 40KM away from Syria’s capital, Damascus. Though disputed land, the Golan is entirely safe and home to some wonderful hikes, the best is the very green upper trail of Nahal Yehudia, a national Israeli park.

Lined with waterfalls and swimming holes, there is a place where you are forced to jump (or descend a ladder bolted into a giant boulder if you are so inclined) into the cool water below. Visit in the spring and catch the yellow, red, pink, and black wild flowers.

View of Istanbul from Yoros Castle, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Spirituality

Choosing a spiritual place off of the tourist trail in a part of the world full of God is tough. The history of the Islamic Empire resonates throughout the region in mosques that are in many cases each country’s finest work of art.

Within a few hundred feet in Jerusalem, you will find the remains of the Jewish Temples, the site of Christ’s resurrection, and the place where Mohammad ascended to heaven in his dream.

In my Middle Eastern meanderings, I’ve always found the desert to be a spiritual place.

Yet for many travelers, the most ornate or historic place of worship does not necessarily equate to a spiritual experience.

In my Middle Eastern meanderings, I’ve always found the desert to be a spiritual place. It is a place that produces dreams, hope, and feelings of supreme humility in the face of overwhelming nature. No desert is prettier than the pink and red Wadi Ram of Jordan.

Trekking off the beaten path though, a lesser known, and more traditionally colored spot can be found in the western reaches of Egypt, in the desert surrounding the Oasis of Siwa.

At Siwa there is a great sand sea—with crests 20 to 30 meters tall—that blows across the desert plains. Cruising up and down its waves in a four wheeled drive vehicle is fun.

Drinking tea at sunset is picturesque. But the real attraction is after hours, in the darkness of night, when the stars shine, suspend time, and inspire belief in a higher power, whether that be God, science, or both.

Siwa is two buses and 11 or 12 hours from Cairo, depending upon how many times the bus overheats along the way.

The Journey

While some travel for the destination, others hit the road for the journey itself. Tiziano Terzani wrote a wistful, make you want to grab your backpack and go book called A Fortune Teller Told Me: Earthbound Travels in the Far East, that is really about appreciating the full process of traveling.

Terzani eschews flights and instead travels by train and by ship, making sure not to miss anything about the way there. But there are no India-like train trips in the Middle East.

And with neighborly relations between many of the region’s countries complicated at best, it isn’t easy to find a desert caravan styled journey that allows you to appreciate the path along the way.

Still, in the spirit of traveling to a place and knowing how you got there in every sense, there is a wonderful day trip along the Golden Horn in Istanbul.

The Golden Horn, in the heart of Istanbul, is where the Bosphorus meets the Sea of Marmara. Along the Old City’s docks, facing a minaret-studded landscape of Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Suleymaniye Mosque, vendors hawk knickknacks and snacks and commuters stream on to ferries that will take them home.

Hop a ferry to Anadolu Kavagi and sit on the deck. For an hour and a half, the ferry makes stops between Europe and Asia. The landscape changes between former crusader forts to shattered docks to the homes of the clearly well-off. Along the way, it is all Istanbul.

At the end of the line, hike to top of the hill and the site of the old Yoros Castle. There are stunning views of Istanbul to the west and the Black Sea to the east. Before returning to the Golden Horn, make sure to stop at one of the fresh fish restaurants along the wharf.

Community Connection!

Matador is representing in the Middle East.

Emily Hansen, is currentlyteaching English in Istanbul - “It’s my New York, but better,” she writes.

Matador member DWB is the guy to talk to about Syria, writing:

Forget everything you’ve ever read in the news about Syria. While Syria’s international standing goes up and down (more down than up recently), the people to meet and places to see here never cease to amaze and impress me.

Then there’s Jason Rezaian, who wrote one of the most popular articles published at Matador Trips:

7 Reasons to travel to Iran Now

Jungle Wonderland: Khao Sok National Park, Thailand

3 Jun 2008 in Nature by Hal Amen

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

If you only go to southern Thailand for the beaches, well, you’re missing out.

Somewhere between the thick, smoggy excitement of Bangkok and the extravagant white-sand brilliance of the Andaman Coast hide the remnants of one of the world’s oldest rainforests.

Since 1980, Khao Sok National Park has guarded 739 square kilometers of this unique environment, doggedly proving that Southern Thailand is more than beach bungalows and full moon parties.

History and Layout

Nestled within a mountainous region in the southwest of Surat Thani province, Khao Sok’s jungle ecosystem formed as early as 160 million (yes, million!) years ago.

Combining characteristics of both rainforests and tropical evergreen forests, this truly ancient landscape overflows with misty limestone cliffs, waterfalls, and the cries of rare animals.

Khao Sok connects with a handful of other parks and wildlife reserves to total 3,000 square kilometers of protected wilderness.

Khao Sok is home to an incredible diversity of plant and animal species.

Interestingly, it was communist insurgents who helped ensure this preservation.

In the 1970s, they set up camp amid the dense jungle and imposing karts of Khao Sok, and in the process of fighting off the Thai Army they also kept out loggers and miners eager to make off with the area’s natural resources.

Conservation unfortunately gave way to modern necessity in 1982 with the construction of the Ratchaprapha Dam. The resultant Chao Lan Reservoir, spanning 165 square kilometers to the north of the park, is now a huge tourism draw, but much of the native wildlife was less than thrilled about it.

Attempts were made to capture and relocate animals in the area, without much success; 52 of the river’s fish species were lost.

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Khao Sok lies off Highway 401, 120 km west of the town of Surat Thani and just 60 km from Takua Pa on the northern Andaman Coast.

From the highway (km 109), a short road winds down to the actual park entrance where admission fees are collected.

It’s along this stretch that you’ll find most of the guesthouses, with the thickest cluster surrounding the bridge over the Sok River. Additional options are sprinkled here and there down other nearby highway turnoffs.

Tigers and bears and…flowers? Oh my!

Left undisturbed by natural and, to some extent, human forces for millions of years, Khao Sok is home to an incredible diversity of plant and animal species.

Elephants, tigers, barking deer, sun bears, and cobras are just a few. Pythons as thick as your thigh have been spotted in the deep jungle.

While you’re certain to see some spectacular wildlife during your stay, keep in mind that most animals stay well away from established trails, and many are nocturnal. Birders will likely have better luck.

But Khao Sok’s most famous resident is much less elusive. Flowers of the genus Rafflesia are the largest in the world and are found in only a scattering of locations around Southeast Asia.

Perched atop some of the park’s high ridges are groupings of one Rafflesia species. They bloom from November to March, giving off an odor of rotting meat to attract flies for pollination. One week after they open, they die.

These flowers are extremely rare and sensitive to disturbance. Remember to keep your distance, no matter how badly you want to get that perfect macro shot.

Rafflesia, Photo by Hal Amen

Exploration

Hiking, whether to see the flowers or simply to take in the diverse sights of the jungle, is a rewarding experience in Khao Sok. The mountainous terrain offers routes of varying lengths and difficulties.

For a true lounging experience, rent a tube and let the river current do its thing.

If you prefer to do your trekking on the back of an elephant, that can also be arranged.

The porous limestone underlying the forest gives shape to some impressive caves. Depending on water levels, it’s possible to either walk or swim through some of them.

However, this can be dangerous: in October of 2007, six tourists and their two guides died in a cave during a flash flood. Make sure you have proper gear and that your guides know their stuff.

River tours are another popular activity. Guided kayak, canoe, and raft trips aren’t terribly exhilarating, but you’re sure to spy plenty of mangrove snakes and baby pythons hanging in the branches canopied above you. There’s always a place to take a refreshing dip, as well.

For a true lounging experience, rent a tube and let the river current do its thing. Just don’t try this when the water is low, or you’ll wind up stumbling through ankle-deep pools on foot.

Khao Sok Tree House Resort, Photo by Hal Amen

Various boating excursions are available on the reservoir, where the karst cliffs spike out of the water like knife blades and your chances of seeing wildlife are slightly higher.

The park operates three clusters of floating guesthouses on remote sections of the lake, accessible by motorboat.

Most of these activities require a guide. This goes for hiking as well, as many of the longer trails are unmarked and getting lost would be very bad news indeed.

Numerous operators offer tours, ranging from afternoon outings to multi-day, all-inclusive packages that provide transport from Phuket, Krabi, etc. and allow you to partake of everything listed above.

There are two alternatives when arranging a tour. Your first is to book through one of the big-name companies, either online or at a tourist center on the west coast. Some popular names include Limestone Lake Rainforest Tours, Siam Inter Tour, and, with a focus on canoe/kayak tours, PaddleAsia and Sea Canoe Thailand.

Otherwise, simply book through your guesthouse once you get to the park. Art’s Riverview Lodge and Our Jungle House are used by tour groups and therefore see lot of traffic, but they get mixed reviews.

Better for the independent traveler are any of the places along the road just before the main park entrance, such as Khao Sok Tree House Resort. Each should have similar tour opportunities on tap, as well as an onsite restaurant. Even if yours does meals, Thai Herb Restaurant by the river bridge deserves a visit.

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Climate

Khao Sok is the wettest place in the whole country, its berth in the Phuket Mountains square in the sights of both the Indian and Pacific monsoons.

Your best bet for sunny skies is between December and April, though there will still be sporadic showers most days.

Expect your fair share of run-ins with six- and eight-legged creatures. Just remember to keep it in perspective: those huge spiders chilling in your guesthouse bathroom and that leach clamped onto your ankle (don’t freak out, they’re harmless!) are simply testaments to the rainforest’s explosion of life.

Arriving and Departing

Khao Sok is the perfect stopover between Bangkok and the Andaman Coast, and buses and minivans travel direct to the park from both Surat Thani and Phuket.

Public buses connect these two locales as well, and you can arrange for the driver to drop you at the turnoff for the park on Highway 401. This will give you more freedom to survey and choose from the many guesthouses.

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

Voralak is a writer based in Bangkok who wrote about the islands of Trang in southern Thailand in an earlier guide for Matador Trips. Dane, another Bangkok based writer, recently wrote a great article about the luxury of time for Brave New Traveler.

Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

5 Best Hudson River Valley Day Trips

1 Jun 2008 in Couples, Family by Julie Schwietert

Feature photo by brunotessa Photo above by PBoGS

Need to escape the Big Apple?

New York City is consistently ranked among America’s favorite travel destinations, but few visitors know that an entirely different yet equally interesting world lies less than an hour outside the urban bustle of Manhattan’s concrete canyon.

Photo by Randy OHC

This guide to the five best Hudson River Valley day trips gives you itineraries that are new even to locals.

These peaceful escapes are far enough off the beaten path not to be overrun, but close enough to public transport for you to easily get back to the city.

The itineraries are intended to be flexible. Some offer lodging options and can easily be extended into weekend trips. For the ambitious traveler, the itineraries can also be combined into a single journey.

No Car? No Problem!

The Hudson River Valley is serviced by Metro North trains, which run to and from New York City. All of the sites listed in these itineraries are located within 20 minutes of a train station; taxis at each depot are available to help you reach them.

Here are the top 5 peaceful escapes in the Hudson Valley.

Graymoor Spiritual Life Center

Just off Highway 9, the main road taking you out of Manhattan and into the Hudson River Valley, is the “blink-and-you’ll-miss-it” town of Garrison, which is where you’ll find Graymoor, a spiritual center staffed by Franciscan friars.

The grounds are extensive and beautiful, and there are many quiet places for reflection, writing, or enjoying nature.

One of the main functions of the center is to host one-day and weekend retreats, and there are at least two every month, except June.

Graymoor also has rooms available (singles and doubles) for visitors who would like to engage in self-directed reflection; for $65 a night, you will be provided with basic but comfortable and private accommodations and three meals.

If you won’t be staying over, there’s still plenty to see and do. The grounds are extensive and beautiful, and there are many quiet places for reflection, writing, or enjoying nature.

Be sure to check out the sweeping view of the valley from the cliff just to the right of the old friary.

There’s also a bookstore, gift shop, and thrift store on the grounds. The proceeds from the latter go to the St. Christopher’s Inn, which is a rehab facility.

Photo by tonythemisfit

*Tip: The Appalachian Trail cuts through Graymoor’s property; in fact, until 1994, Graymoor provided lodging and meals to tired hikers. (They now permit hikers to set up tents on their ball field).

If you plan to explore the Valley on foot, consider combining the itineraries by using the AT as your thoroughfare.

Headed north from Graymoor, you can follow the AT over to Highway 301 East, which will lead you to the Stonecrop Gardens, Fahnestock State Park, the Taconic State Outdoor Education Center, and the Chuang Yen Monastery.

Stonecrop Gardens

A few miles past Graymoor, further north on Highway 9, you’ll come to a stop light marking the junction of 9 and Highway 301. Turn right (east) and you’ll come, more or less in succession, across each of the remaining itinerary sites.

The first of these destinations is Stonecrop Gardens, a tucked off-the-road secret garden. Actually, Stonecrop is several gardens: woodland, water, grass, alpine stone, cliff rock, and English, to be exact.

Open from the beginning of April until the end of October, Stonecrop is a plant lover’s dream. Be sure to visit the picturesque pond-side conservatory.

If you want to know what plants will be flowering during your visit, check the bloom calendar. If you’re a gardener, ask about Stonecrop’s seminum and rarium programs, which provide native and rare seeds at a reasonable price.

*Tip: Be sure to check days and hours of operation in advance. At the time of this writing, a $5 admission fee is charged to each visitor.

Photo by bucketwater

Fahnestock State Park

The 14,000+ acre Clarence Fahnestock State Park is a multi-use site that is equally welcoming to the hard-core outdoor enthusiast and the passive recreationalist.

Depending on the season, visitors can enjoy cross-country skiing and snowshoe trails, fishing, and hiking. Go as deep into the park as you like, but there’s plenty to keep you busy just off the shoulder of Highway 301.

Going east, you’ll come across a small lake. You can enjoy a picnic on the shore or rent a rowboat by the hour or by the day.

A bit further up the road, just past Canopus Lake, you’ll find the entrance for “the beach,” a lakeside shore built in the 1970s with sand trucked in from Long Island.

For information about activities, permits, and hours visit the park’s website; maps and additional information can be found here.

Photo by christinahope

Taconic Outdoor Education Center

Taconic Outdoor Education Center is actually a part of Fahnestock State Park, but the Center is worth its own listing because it offers some special experiences, including maple sugaring (the process of tapping maples for the sap that will become syrup).

The TOEC is especially great for families, hosting occasional recreation festivals during which kayaking, orienteering (finding your way around in the woods), and other sports and skills are taught.

The TOEC also offers affordable lodging, camping, and retreat options.

Chuang Yen Buddhist Monastery

Just past the “Town of Kent” sign on the north side of Highway 301 is the unassuming entrance for the Chuang Yen Monastery.

As you enter the wooded property and the road yields to a view of the massive temple, you’ll be amazed to learn that such a tiny, out of the way town is home to the Buddhist Association of the United States.

Enter the Great Buddha Hall or Kuan-Yin Hall and engage in meditation. Walk around the Seven Jewels Lake and watch fish and turtles going about their business.

Visit the Woo-Ju Memorial Library to see one of the best collections of Tibetan Buddhist literature in the United States.

If you happen to visit on the weekend, free vegetarian meals are offered to guests between noon and 1 PM. If you like Chuang Yen so much you’d like to stay a bit longer, modest lodging and meals are provided for just $15 a night. Retreats are also offered periodically.

Community Connection!

Matador members (heart) NY.

Lola recently wrote a fun blog about the Hudson Valley town of Peekskill.

Veronica, an expert on NY art museums, writes:

“One of the best things about living in NY is the embarrassment of cultural riches–and particularly the amazing museums.”

For info on the hottest bars and clubs in the Big Apple, check out Kyle’s guide to the Top 10 Nightlife Spots In NYC.

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