Backpacker’s Secret Guide to Cabo Polonio

30 Aug 2008 in Destinations, Guides by Tyler Wetherall

Feature photo by libertinus Photo above by libertinus

Cabo Polonio is half mad and beautifully unusual.

If the bright lights and crowds of Punta del Este put you off, escape it all completely for a few days of mellow madness in Uruguay´s strangest treasure.

Cabo Polonio is a secret that is slowly leaking out, because once you know about it you can´t keep your mouth shut. With no running water, no electricity, no roads, and not an Internet cafe in sight, Cabo Polonio is a truly unique experience. Although this sandy outcrop is a permanent home to 70 people – an eclectic mix of fishermen, eccentric expats, and hippies – there isn´t even a postal address, as it has never been registered as a residence.

Orientation

On the eastern coast of Uruguay, Cabo Polonio sits on a sliver of sand jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean, with two stretches of clean, white beach sheltered by rollicking sand dunes and rugged tufts of forest. At the outermost point, a grand lighthouse looks out over two rocky islands, home to a large colony of sea lions.

Cabo is somewhere between a working fishing village and a self-contained hippy retreat, eerily reminiscent of the 70s movie, “The Wickerman.” It is made up of a chaotic scattering of multi-coloured houses and inventive shacks dotted across the grass and sand, with some chickens, cows and horses grazing in between. You will see fishermen bringing in their catch along the beaches, and a happy band of hippies permanently crafting their wares along the dusty paths, selling to what tourists they see.

Without water or electricity, there is neither Internet nor mobiles, and only one land-line. The residents survive by collecting rain water in wells, which is pumped up for drinking and showering. While only the lighthouse is powered by the national grid, some shops and houses run essentials like refrigerators and lights from generators, but most people make do without.

The village is centred around a sandy circle with a handful of miscellaneous stores, cafes and posadas branching off in lanes. You can buy most basics in the two larger shops, although sometimes there is a wait for the next delivery of fresh produce like vegetables and eggs.

Although those in the known descend on Cabo from December to March, supporting the very basic tourist infrastructure, the whole town grinds to a halt in the off season, with very few options for food or accommodation.

Cabo has just been made part of Uruguay´s National System of Protected Areas, which means even though people have been building houses illegally there for years, no further development will happen, a blessing which will save it from turning into just another sea-side resort town.

Photo by libertinus

Getting There

There are no roads leading to Cabo, which gives it the wonderful sensation of complete isolation.

But it is situated only 7 km from the highway, Ruta 10, in the Rocha province. You can reach this magical spot on a four-hour bus journey from Montevideo for $12 on Rutas de Sol. It stops in every village along the way, but this is the most direct route, so sit back and enjoy this scenic strip of coast.

The bus drops you off at an isolated outpost with just two little shops and a man waiting for your arrival to offer a lift on one of his big yellow 4×4 trucks.

The budget option is to walk through the sand dunes, but it is tough on the thighs, especially with a heavy rucksack. Trucks are only $3 and if you get a seat up on top, it’s a great 20 minute cross-country ride, dodging sand dunes and shrubs, before the expanse of beach is spectacularly unveiled, and you find yourself hurtling along the surf.

Accommodation

When you jump off the 4×4 in what functions as the main square, you´ll most likely be greeted with friendly offers of accommodation from locals, including Alfredo, who runs the one hostel: Cabo Polonio Hostel.

The solar-panelled hostel has good basic rooms with breakfast included for $25, and has a bar, restaurant and a relaxing patio with hammocks. Just 100 m from the sea, the hostel also offers guided trips and horse rental.

Cabo also has two hotels, which can boast of their electrical prowess.

For the truly atmospheric experience, though, forego all modern luxuries and rent a cabana from one of the locals.

The larger of the two mercados will help you find available rooms or houses. These can vary from wooden shacks with corrugated iron roofs and basic bunk beds for less than $10 a night, to solar-paneled holiday homes with sea views and patios.

Check out Cabo Polonio accomodations for some options.

Photo by libertinus

Sights and Activities

You can explore Cabo Polonio in less than an hour.

Make like the locals and throw off your shoes to wander the dusty paths barefoot, soaking up the often bizarre sights, such as Perdida, the local bartender’s pet penguin, waddling along the road.

A short walk beyond the town towards the sea you will find the lighthouse, built in the 1880s.

It is worth paying the $0.70 entry to make your way up the never-ending staircase, just for the view from the top of the endless sea and across the flat farmlands of Uruguay. The very friendly lighthouse staff will also let you into the light bulb itself for a cheesy photo op.

Cabo, once famed seal hunting territory, now protects its large colony of sea lions (or lobos marinos) who live on the two rocky islands beyond the lighthouse.

One or two are usually sunbathing on the rocks underneath the lighthouse, but in mating season thousands flock to the mainland, with the females lounging on every available surface as the males fight for their attention.

The principal attraction is, of course, the beaches. If you find yourself there in off-season you can often have the beach completely to yourself. Nothing beats waking up early and making the first set of footprints across unmarked sand. The water is clean and just cool enough to be refreshing, with good waves on one beach and sheltered swimming on the other.

Part of the beauty of this place is the slow pace of life. There is very little to do here, so when you see locals getting stuck into their first cerveza early in the morning, the best thing to do is join in. Asking a resident if he ever gets bored living here, he replied, “Isn’t it better to be bored here than anywhere else in the world?”

But if you grow tired of watching the sun move in the sky, the surrounding area makes for great walking, or you can hire horses for a couple of dollars.

Night Time

The true magic of this place comes to life as the sun sets. Remember to stock up on candles from the local shop before night falls, as these will be your only source of light. Take a moment to appreciate the complete darkness. Away from the city lights and smog you can see the Milky Way as you sit on your patio and sip a beer.

Brave the torchlit walk from your lodging to the “main street” just to see Josario’s Bar, the only bar which stays open year round. This unique hidden den is cut into a field with a ceiling made of entwined flowers, which drip into your glass of wine as you drink.

The warren-like den was designed by blind owner Josario, and feels more like a set from Midsummer`s Night Dream than a bar. With jugs of wine only $3, you can spend a long evening here chatting with locals by candlelight, while Gershwin and Miles Davis lull you into a drunken haze.

Every additional drink makes the dark walk back to your lodging that much harder. Listen out for the sound of the sea lions barking to each other in the night, making an eerie cackling. This is how Cabo Polonio is, half mad and beautifully unusual.

Singapore on a Shoestring Budget

27 Aug 2008 in Destinations, Guides by Felicia Wong

Feature Photo by besar_bears

Photo above by murli

After a long trip through Thailand, Cambodia or Indonesia, arriving in Singapore can really shock your wallet when prices seem too similar to those back home. FELICIA WONG, Matador’s Singapore Expert, shares 9 things to see or do for near-to-nothing in the sunny city-state.
1. The Botanic Gardens

Sixty-four hectares of lush greenery, the Singapore Botanic Garden is a tranquil oasis of calm in the midst of the city. Pack a picnic from the supermarket and lounge around on the grass for a lazy afternoon. Entertain yourself by watching the squirrels frolic or observe local couples having their wedding pictures taken (and trying to look romantic despite sweating in their wedding finery).


GETTING THERE: Closest MRT (subway) station is Orchard, followed by a short bus ride. It’s close to the British and American embassies, and cab drivers all know it.

2. The Esplanade Theatres

Often referred to as “bugs’ eyes” or “the durian” (a stinky spiky fruit), the Esplanade has much to offer to visitors. Check listings online or drop by to find out about free events. Weekends often bring free live performances on the waterfront promenade.

Photo by virusinside

Best kept secret: The library@esplanade on the third floor is a slick arts library with a wide range of movies, musical scores, CDs, and magazines.

Foreigners cannot check items out, but they can browse. Find yourself a seat overlooking the sea to enjoy the view, safe from the humidity. The facility (like almost all of downtown Singapore) is WiFi-enabled.

For cheap and tasty local grub (the fancy restaurants in the Esplanade building are anything but), head for the open air local food centre beside the Esplanade building, across from the Marina Square Mall (with giant staircase).


GETTING THERE: Closest MRT is City Hall (walk through the subterranean mall) or Raffles Place (across from the Fullerton Hotel).

3. The Merlion

It’s weird, it’s touristy, but oh what fun to snap pictures of OTHER tourists snapping pictures with the half-fish, half-lion creature created by the Singapore Tourism Board in the 1970s as a tourism symbol (don’t ask). Be amused by the bus loads of Asian tourists excitedly striking poses with the watery beast. You can easily visit the Merlion by walking across the bridge from the Esplanade theatres.


GETTING THERE: Closest MRT station is Raffles Place, or stroll from City Hall, and pass the Esplanade Theatres.

4. Free Museums

Singapore’s museums often do not charge entry fees for permanent displays, requiring payment only for special exhibits or features. On Fridays after 6 PM, the museums allow free entry for all, and may even include free guided tours. Check the National Heritage Board’s website for information on opening hours, exhibits, and other details.

5. Free Movies

The newly-refurbished National Museum holds open-air Friday night movie screenings every so often on its front lawn. The movie nights are often themed (they have held the ‘Audrey Hepburn’, ‘Retro’ and ‘Asian Horror’ series so far), and make for great fun and a free night out. Check the museum’s website for information, but be sure to get to the lawn early to secure a good spot!

GETTING THERE: Closest MRT station is Dhoby Ghaut station, or also walkable from City Hall.

6. Wander Little India

Little India is chaotic and it’s not eat-off-the-floor clean like the rest of Singapore, but it certainly has character. Stroll around the narrow streets overflowing with stalls blasting Bollywood tunes, get a henna tattoo, or enjoy cheap, tasty and authentic Indian food at the numerous food stalls.

Photo by sami73

For extra fun, visit the massive Mustafa Shopping Centre, Singapore’s only 24 hour shopping mall. The quirky mall sells everything from groceries to clothing to electronics to toilet bowls, and even cars. It’s quite the experience for free, if you manage not to be enticed into buying something you never knew you needed.

GETTING THERE: Closest MRT station is Little India.

7. Places of Worship

Little India and Chinatown are home to many Hindu and Buddhist temples, which you can visit for free. The temples are usually abuzz with activities at every hour of the day, so you can observe devotees of the respective faiths going about their religious rites. Of course, be respectful when taking photographs and abide by customs such as removing your shoes or being dressed appropriately.

8. Off the beaten track: East Coast Park

East Coast Park, Singapore’s largest– stretching 15 km along the coast– gets you out of downtown Singapore and is a great place to get some exercise (besides power-walking through malls, of course). Rent bicycles, in-line skates, or even go windsurfing or canoeing. Camping is also possible if you can beat the heat (permits not required for 3 nights or fewer), and there are public bathrooms with cold showers available every 500m or so. The McDonald’s here features the world’s very first “skate through,” where there’s a special line for in-line skaters.

*Singapore’s other parks in the suburbs also have bicycle and in-line skate rentals. Check the National Parks website for information.

GETTING THERE: Take bus 36 from downtown or the airport and alight around Marine Drive. You will need to ask for directions to find the underpass that takes you beneath the freeway and to the park. A cab from downtown could set you back S$18 or so. Check here for directions.

9. Off the beaten track: Pulau Ubin (Ubin Island)

One of the last surviving “rural” areas of Singapore, Pulau Ubin is an island about 10 minutes off the eastern coast of mainland Singapore. The tiny (and dwindling) community tries hard to hold onto its rustic way of life and still has chickens and ducks waddling around. The best way to explore the island is to rent a bicycle. Visit the mangrove swamps and Chek Jawa beach, home to Singapore’s native flora and fauna. There’s also a disused granite quarry and a shrimp farm on the island.

GETTING THERE: Take the MRT to Tampines MRT station and transfer to bus 19 to get to Changi Village jetty. Boats from the Changi Village Jetty leave when there are 12 passengers (S$2/pax), or you can pay the difference to leave immediately.

Community Connection: Matador member Mal visited Singapore recently and wrote about the trip over in the Community blog.

She described Singapore as “an oasis amidst the frenetic pace of an around the world trip that tested me on every level.”

Have you been to Singapore? Share your experiences in a comment below, or set up your free profile today on Matador!

Insider’s Guide to Tokyo

Photo above bykalleboo.

Helpful hints for travelers looking to explore Japan’s megalopolis.
1. Trains, Trains, and Trains

Tokyo Station is a major hub of local trains, subway stops, and the famous high speed shinkansen. This train, if operated from the northernmost point in Japan (Cape Soya) to the southernmost cape (Sata), could take you across the length of the country in a little over ten hours, running at 200 km per hour.

Take advantage of trains by visiting the old capital of Kyoto, only two and a half hours away. The route cuts through the countryside, in and out of endless tunnels, with the occasional view of Mt. Fuji. Tourists have the opportunity to purchase the Japan Rail Pass, a ticket that provides unlimited access to nearly all trains within a given time.

If you stay within city limits, don’t fear – in Tokyo, you’ll never tire of watching people boarding the local lines for their morning commutes. If you think you’ve been on a crowded bus, or in a jam-packed rock concert, you have never seen anything quite like Japan Railways in the morning; staff are actually hired to be “pushers” – people whose sole purpose is to shove passengers into trains that are already at what westerners might consider full capacity.

Words just can’t do this justice:

With the exception of occasional suicides as people toss themselves on the tracks–a phenomenon that is actually quite common in Tokyo– this form of transportation is punctual to a fault: an 8:32 arrival means an 8:32:00 arrival, not one second wasted.

In the next 10 years, Tokyo and Osaka will be linked by one of the world’s few maglev (magnetic levitation) trains. East to central Japan in one hour. The speed? 581 kph. The price? One can only imagine.

2. Love Hotels

Japan, although conservative on many faces, maintains a very open-minded attitude about sex, whether this includes desensitizing youth to violent sexual activity in manga (Japanese comic stories), or creating a specific place for two young lovers to escape their parents and friends for an intimate rendezvous.

Love hotels provide quick, cheap, and sometimes automated love nests. Guests can choose to buy a “short rest” for a few hours, or book the room until 10 AM the next morning.

A variety of themes are available: the otaku (roughly translated… nerd) who wants a sci-fi adventure in the bedroom, the animal lover who might prefer to be surrounded by leopard skin, or vain couples who like to have mirrors covering 360 degrees of motion.

The largest concentration of love hotels is located just west of Shibuya Station, next to many less reputable shops… and upscale fashion outlets.

Photo by thecameo.

3. The Lights of Shinjuku

Impressive and monumental. The area surrounding Shinjuku Station exposes you to more square footage of advertising and media than anywhere else in the world. Just be careful not to cave to your consumer side!

4. A Sunday in the Park

You look around at all the things one might expect to see in a well-populated Japanese city – the schoolgirl in a tailored Prussian uniform, a no-smiles salaryman who is never in anything but a hurry… all this has vanished. In its stead, what you see in Yoyogi Park in Harajuku is nothing less than an outcry for expression, a shrugging-off of the rules and everything they stand for.

Every Sunday, and often, other days of the week, this area north of Shibuya is inundated with amateur musicians, street acts, starving artists, girls in Gothic makeup and black clothes, and jugglers, all joining young lovers looking for a quiet walk in a patch of green, and fathers tired from 18-hour weekdays but still able to enjoy playing catch with their sons.

Spend the day here, or stay for the afternoon – how many countries can say they have KISS cover bands performing on Sunday?

Photo by wili_hybrid.

5. Various Views

One reason the movie “Lost in Translation” was such an effective example of the loneliness of being abroad (in addition to having Bill Murray’s charming demeanor and Scarlett Johansson’s stunning visage) was the recurring view of the Tokyo skyline.

From the Park Hyatt Hotel in Shinjuku (location of most of the movie), one does get a sense of waking up in a strange place in a different world, and, from that height, no one can fool himself into believing home is just around the corner.

Although the city doesn’t exactly come across as having any major architectural sensations, the grey boxes that are the offices and homes of the multitudes of salarymen are quite the sight at night, or at sunset, or when Mt. Fuji can be seen to the west.

Try the expensive drinks at the New York Bar in the Park Hyatt, or check out the art exhibits perched atop Roppongi Hills. Although you may not find meaning in the expanse of lights that is the heart of Japan, it’s still enjoyable to share over a cup of coffee with a new friend.

6. The Attire

Even with the continued influence of Hollywood celebrity endorsements on brand-name clothes (Cameron Diaz and Brad Pitt are some of the more well-known sellouts in Japan), I’ve discovered Japanese keep their own standards on fashion and… ugh… what’s “hot.”

Photo by globetrotterl.

You might see a girl from Tokyo University decked out in high-heeled leather boots, short dark jean shorts, topped off with a leather metal-link belt, a white long-sleeve shirt with an interesting Engrish (see below) phrase, and necklace upon necklace upon necklace.

On the other hand, there are those who prefer to don makeup until their faces seem as though plastic, wearing a simple dress with white lace… living dolls.

Men are no exception, some a close second to the ladyboys of Thailand, others “selling” themselves at host bars in seedy areas of this great metropolis. In Japan, men and women play the roles of hosts and hostesses for those customers who wish to pay for conversation. Talking, drinks, and perhaps karaoke. Nothing more. For a more detailed look at this life, you might want to check out Lea Jacobson’s Bar Flower.

7. The Homeless of Ueno Park

The homeless problem in Japan is completely ignored by those in any position of authority. In Ueno Park, location of one of the larger homeless populations, you might find yourself surprised.

If I could say one thing about the homeless in Japan, it would be: I believe they keep their dignity. These are not people begging on the streets, scrounging for one yen coins in a pile of garbage; often you will see them clean, reasonably well fed, and no different than any other Japanese citizen.

Why? Public baths for one: cheap, efficient ways to get clean. And the value the Japanese place on the freshness of food; convenience stores and supermarkets will usually toss out bento (ready-made meals) in less than a day, and might accommodate any homeless person who is willing to consume such “spoiled” goods.

Housing is not exactly cheap in the heart of Tokyo, and cardboard or sheet metal shanties can be seen in Ueno. Dignity triumphs over adversity, though; the owners typically remove their shoes at the threshold of the makeshift house, just as they would entering any other respectable establishment.

Photo by leadenhall.

8. Store Fronts

In addition to being one of the more English-friendly countries, Japan makes it easy even for non-native speakers to find their way through the cuisine; whether you’re examining menus at sushi restaurants near Tokyo Station in or in one of the more obscure corners of Ueno, take note of the great care cafes will take to ensure you eat with them.

Wax models of some of the more popular dishes are available for viewing in glass cases at the entrance of these restaurants. It’s become such a standard around Japan that artists who create some of the better food sculptures can make a decent living.

And, just as you’d expect with places serving seafood, there might be tanks of live fish, which will shortly be sliced and served with wasabi; freshness is nothing less than a virtue in Japan (some fish are served cut, but with heart still beating to ensure the best possible flavor).

Of particular interest are the blowfish tanks, containing the expensive delicacy fugu, a fish known for its high concentration of poison in the internal organs. Although the dish is more of a novelty for tourists–it doesn’t really have too much flavor raw– the emperor remains the only Japanese forbidden to indulge.

9. Engrish

Photo by gilgongo

10. Pachinko

It’s like a drug – total oblivion, dissolution from reality, drowning in a mixture of red lights and deafening sounds. And, personally, I don’t think it’s all that fun, either.

Pachinko is the most widespread video game in Japan, available from almost any corner in Tokyo to the southern island of Yakushima. What is it? Technically, it’s a computerized version of pinball; a player launches multiple metal balls and maneuvers them into holes on the board, which, if they find their marks or achieve a certain sequence, activate a video screen slot game.

More winnings equal more metal balls. Metal balls equal prizes. Prizes equal money.

As one might expect, laws on gambling have simple loopholes. Just like in Vegas, there are 24/7 slot jockeys who spend entire days waiting for that one big payout to buy their next meal.

Stop by a nearby parlor for the experience (and maybe pick up a little cash), but be prepared to have your senses totally overwhelmed: flashing lights, painfully loud sounds, stale cigarette smoke…

Chill Caribbean: Going Slow in Abaco

23 Aug 2008 in Destinations by Tammy Gray-Searles

Photo by woody1778a.

“Abaco is not for sissies.” That’s one of the first things you’ll hear from locals if you ask about traveling to the fabled outer islands of the Bahamas.

It’s not that they don’t want you there or that they’re unfriendly. They just want to warn you, in advance, not to expect big resorts and pampering, or even things like steady electricity, air conditioning, or maybe even ice cream.

In the Abacos, everything runs a little differently. Time doesn’t have much meaning, distance is measured by how fast your boat can go, and things happen when they happen.

This may sound like bliss, but keep that in mind when ordering dinner. It may take an hour and a half or better to get your food if the cook has to run down to the dock to pick up a shipment of food.

On the way, he may run into an old friend and stop to share a beer and some memories. You may show up promptly for your guided snorkeling trip, only to wait at the docks for two hours because your guide had a little too much Kalik last night.

Making dinner yourself is an option, but your choice of main dish ingredients will probably be limited to whatever fish was caught that day.

Photo by comecloser.

On the other hand, if you can let go of expectations and go with the flow, not caring when or if supper arrives, whether the local market will finally get some milk back in stock, or when the electricity will come back on, the Abacos are paradise.

Some of the most beautiful and pristine beaches can be found there, and most of the time you can have them all to yourself.

Perhaps one of the most charming islands in the Abacos is Elbow Cay, home to Hopetown. Settled by British loyalists, Hopetown fuses Bahamian and English culture, but, like the rest of the Abacos, the British must have adapted to the laidback way of life.

No stuffy restaurants or jacket and tie requirements here. One small restaurant on the north end of the island, which doesn’t even seem to have a name, has a large sign outside proclaiming, “No shoes, no shirt, NO PROBLEM.”

The Abaco Inn describes its service as “barefoot elegance.” In fact, the churches are probably the only places on all of Elbow Cay where a shirt and shoes are required.

While there is plenty to do on the island, come prepared to make your own entertainment and to do lots of relaxing. Fishing and snorkeling charters are almost always available. Just ask any local to find out which guides are available while you’re there.

Photo by comecloser.

Since the island is only one-half mile wide and seven miles long, you can do plenty of exploring on your own without fear of getting lost.

Crime is virtually unheard of in the islands, and even for a small-town girl like me it was surprising to see valuables left sitting unattended on the dock. The only thing to keep a close eye on is your beer. Cases of Kalik don’t exactly get stolen, but sometimes they are borrowed and shared.

You can rent a boat to get around the island or a golf cart for driving to town. No vehicles, including golf carts, are allowed in town, except for the rare delivery truck. The “streets” look like oversized sidewalks, with a small Datsun pickup barely fitting between buildings as it delivers goods to the market.

There are three small markets on the island — most of the time. Sometimes one is closed, sometimes another is out of nearly everything. If you have dietary restrictions, it’s best to bring what you need with you because you never know what you may find, or not find, at the local markets. Remember, you are on one of the last “outposts,” and delivery of goods is on the same sort of time schedule as the rest of the Abaco islands.

There are plenty of restaurants to choose from on the island, with Captain Jack’s and Munchies among the most popular. Munchies looks like a small shack, and customers sit on the screened-in porch to dine.

Photo by JasonBechtel.

Here you can eat amazing conch-burgers, made up of deep-fried pieces of conch (a type of mussel, pronounced “konk”) placed on a bun and topped with lettuce and a mouthwatering version of tartar sauce. It’s hard to say if Munchies has the best ice cream in the world, or if it just tastes better on a beautiful tropical island, but it’s the place to go for Rum Raisin and Coconut Ice Cream — if the shipment of ice cream has arrived.

Cap’n Jacks is on a dock in downtown Hopetown (downtown being the entire town). There is seating indoors at the bar or outside on the covered dock. Everything on the menu is good, but the atmosphere is even better.

Watch the boats sail in and out of the harbor, with the picturesque lighthouse in the background, and join in the always-interesting dining conversation, which is usually a friendly debate about boats, fishing, or beer.

Some nights, local reggae bands play live music, the tables are pushed aside and there is dancing on the dock. This is as close as it gets to nightlife in Hopetown.

Other great places to eat include Hopetown Harbour Lodge, Abaco Inn, and Sea Spray Marina. For other suggestions, ask a local and they’ll make sure you know everything you need.

A description of Elbow Cay would not be complete without a mention of the fantastic beaches. On one side of the island is the powerful Atlantic Ocean, with giant crashing waves and rugged beauty.

On the other are the clear, calm warm waters of the Abaco Sea, in unbelievable shades of turquoise blue and green. Both sides have gorgeous sandy beaches that you can walk along for miles. On the north end of the Atlantic side, however, is a large rocky outcropping where the waves turn to saltwater mist as they hit the rocks.

Although not ideal for beachcombing, this is a beautiful place to stand in awe at the size and power of the ocean. It may also be good for on-shore fishing, but I never had the chance to try it out.

Along the Abaco Sea side of the island, you can walk nearly all the way from the north end of the island to the harbor at low tide. The south end of the island is cut off from the harbor by marsh-like areas, which also help protect the island’s gem, Tahiti Beach.

Photo by deanbkrafft.

Tahiti Beach was named one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and once you’re there it’s easy to see why. It’s also easy to wish that it hadn’t been named, so that no one else would ever discover it.

You can walk out for what seems like miles in only waist-deep turquoise blue water, with tropical fish darting in and out around your ankles. Sandbars along the way offer private places to relax, although the privacy is not usually necessary since there are rarely more than three or four people along the entire stretch of beach.

At Tahiti Beach is Tilloo Cut, where the Atlantic and the Abaco Sea meet. It’s amazing to stand in tranquil, waist deep water and watch the waves of the Atlantic break over the coral formations.

The beauty of Elbow Cay is unspoiled by mega-resorts, tourist traps and the “comforts” of modern society. Sure, you can get phone service, satellite tv and wireless internet service, but why?

The memory of schedules, ringing phones, bad news on tv and the constant need for new information quickly and quietly slips away on Elbow Cay, the perfect paradise — as long as you’re not a sissy.

10 Places You Can Still Go Skiing or Snowboarding in Summertime

20 Aug 2008 in Adventure, Fresh Ideas, Guides by Dana Ranill

Homepage photo and photo above by ckindel. Thompson Pass, Valdez, Alaska.

Most people don’t think of summer as a time for skiing or snowboarding, but if you’re willing to hike, you don’t have to wait until December to make turns.

North America has a predictable stash of snowfields every summer season.

You’ve probably passed right by them on road trips this month, wondering what it would be like bust out a pair of skis or snowboard and schlep your way up–and then down–that mountain.

Don’t just imagine, get out there and ride!

The following is a sampling of some of the best North American places you can either still make turns right now or plan on them for next summer.

Thompson Pass, Valdez, AK

Alaskan natives define Chugach as “The mountains of the people.”

Now home to the World Extreme Skiing Championships, the Chugach have become a mecca for extreme skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts.

With winters receiving an average 1,000 inches of snow, and marine conditions off the Port of Valdez that cause that snow to grip to the steep 40-50 degree terrain, you’ll be blessed with conditions like nowhere else on earth.

It’s also a safe bet that after the official “ski season” ends, the Eastern Chugach will be primed well into summer. Off Thompson Pass, some 20 miles outside of Valdez, skiers can choose from day long ski tours, cat skiing or big mountain heli-skiing.

With single runs ranging from 3,000-5,000 vertical feet, it’s possible to bag six runs and 20,000 vertical feet in one day. My advice? Make the most out of this experience by booking a room at Thompson Pass Mountain Chalet B&B, conveniently situated at the base of the pass, and hire a professional guide.

Check out some of these sources for more information on:

  • Chalet
  • Guides (Alaska Backcountry Adventures)
  • Snow Dome, Mt. Hood, OR

    Photo by jikido

    High above Mt. Hood’s superpipes and lap parks and summertime snowboard camps, you can enjoy the terrain above Timberline Lodge sans summer crowds by skiing/boarding Hood’s Snow Dome.

    Most of the skiable routes off the summit are steep and exposed, however Snow Dome is more mellow, a Mt. Hood summer ski tour favorite. And with an average 500-600 inches of winter snowfall, good conditions last well into summer.

    Keep in mind, Hood’s exposure as the highest peak in Oregon makes it prone to big storms. In June 2008, three climbers got caught in a late season snowstorm and never made it off the mountain.

    Minimize your risk by checking local weather forecasts and wearing a satellite beacon while climbing.

    Rock Creek Headwall, Beartooth Pass, MT

    If you’re following the masses to Yellowstone this summer, take a detour out of the park’s northeast entrance on Highway 212.

    Between Cooke City and Red Lodge, you’ll find yourself winding up the gnarly switchbacks of Beartooth Pass Road to a lofty 11,947′ elevation.

    Rock Creek Headwall will beckon you to get out of the car, grab your board and boot pack your way across the plateau at the top of the pass to Rock Creek. With access to high elevation snowfields and numerous snow covered chutes, Beartooth offers steep and challenging terrain right off the top of the pass.

    Get in a quick summer shred sesh or maybe a few; stick out your thumb and shuttle back and forth for several runs in one day. Here’s one cowboy who has Beartooth dialed. Check his site out for detailed info about the pass and surrounding areas.

    Muir Snowfield, Mt. Rainier, WA

    Photo by kaj097

    On a clear day in Seattle, or from any elevated point in the state of Washington, Mt. Rainier’s 14,411′ snowy cone glistens in the distance.

    Located in the Central Cascades of Mt. Rainier National Park, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in the state and is a popular training ground for mountaineers getting ready to trek the Himalayas.

    For those wanting an introduction to ski mountaineering, the Muir Snowfield is a classic trip, skiable year-round between 7,000 and 10,000 feet.

    For those wanting an introduction to ski mountaineering, the Muir Snowfield is a classic trip, skiable year-round between 7,000 and 10,000 feet.

    Check here for photos and a story of a summertime descent of the Muir snowfield.

    Dead Dog Couloir, Torrey’s Peak, CO

    Any top dawg’s legs are as good as dead after tackling Dead Dog Couloir on Torrey’s Peak this summer. At 14,267′, Torrey’s is the only peak of its gargantuan size on the Continental Divide. Its sheer height alone makes it a magnet for mountaineers, climbers and expert skiers who scream down the 45 degree pitch of Dead Dog Couloir.

    Locating the line is the easy part. It’s right in the middle of Torrey’s Peak and splits it in half. Getting up and back down is another situation altogether. Ice axe, crampons and a helmet are a must.

    And the narrow rock choke up top, with runneled-out moguls, lots of rocks (plus lots of people looking to bag a 14er), make this a difficult route to maneuver. But if you’re up for hiking 1,500 vertical feet and combining that with no-fall zone turns, this will be the perfect mental and physical challenge.

    As always, do your research before you go and learn from the dudes who have done it before you.

    North Couloir, North Peak, CA

    Ditch the hordes of Yosemite day hikers and head up the 12,242′ Eastern Sierra peak, known as North Peak. North Peak is located in Yosemite’s neighboring Inyo National Forest and has a number of gullies with excellent ski descents.

    North Couloir, in particular, is highly desirable come summer. With approximately 2,000 feet of skiable vert at a challenging 45-50 degrees, any backcountry skiers or boarders will get what they’re looking for.

    To access North Peak, go to Saddlebag Lake off of Highway 120 on the Tioga Pass and take the water taxi service to get across (or hike the 3.5 mile approach around the lake).

    For detailed instructions, visit www.summitpost.org. Keep in mind that in late summer or fall, the snow hardens into ice and becomes more appropriate for ice climbing.

    Even though North Peak is easily hiked in one day, making it a somewhat popular backcountry route, the 360 degree view of the parks below will more than compensate for the people you pass on the way up.

    Chockstone Couloir, The Grand Mogul, ID

    Redfish Lake, once known for its red-scaled sockeye salmon that used to spawn in its waters, is now a popular fishing and boating retreat where people come to enjoy its serene mountain atmosphere.

    From the patio of Redfish Lake Lodge, which was built in 1929, tourists marvel at the spectacular peak at the northwest end of the lake, the Grand Mogul.

    At 9,733′, Grand Mogul is one of the Sawtooth’s most prominent peaks and is home to the Chockstone Couloir, a moderate snow climb that’s skiable well into summer.

    From the lake, Chockstone is the obvious couloir that splits the Mogul in half. A 15-20 minute shuttle boat across the lake is the best way to approach. But like North Peak, the 40-50 degree pitch and 1,000 vertical feet of skiable summertime terrain makes this a technical run.

    Check out this powdermag.com first hand account of skiing the ‘Tooths in July for more info.

    Balu Pass, Connaught Drainage, Rogers Pass, BC

    Driving up the Trans-Canada Highway between Golden and Revelstoke is like venturing into the French Alps; jagged peaks and massive snowfields characterize the high alpine corridor of Rogers Pass.

    But while most folks will patiently wait for winter’s snowfall, sticking to Kicking Horse or newly opened Revelstoke Mountain Resort, backcountry enthusiasts can veer off the beaten path at Rogers Pass Interpretive Centre and pick their way amongst wildflowers to the snowy Selkirk Mountains of Glacier National Park.

    Following a trail head located directly behind the Best Western, there’s a gradual climb from the valley bottom, past large slide paths, to a broad col on Balu Glacier. Head straight up the incline and find 32-37 degrees of effortless sloping snowfields to take you back down to the bottom.

    Plan for at least four hours up and check with locals at Revelstoke Alpine Equipment for current conditions.

    Tuckerman’s Ravine, Mt. Washington, NH (until mid-summer)

    Unless you’re from there, the East Coast is one of the last places you might think of for planning a spectacular backcountry adventure, especially in the summer.

    But for those who are willing to hike, the Head Wall of Tuckerman’s Ravine in New Hampshire’s White Mountain National Forest has been a hot spot for over 60 years.

    Thanks to last winter’s hearty snowfall, the glaciated Tuckerman’s was blessed with ample snow coverage well into summer. The hike into the base of the Ravine takes over two hours. Avalanche danger is at a minimum in early June, and snow is stable, but the terrain is still steep with 50 degree chutes.

    In addition to the Head Wall, Hillman’s Highway, Right Gully and Left Gully are some other options that will keep your thighs burning. There’s even moderate terrain lower down for the less adventurous and plenty of hootin’ and hollerin’ from Lunch Rocks, where hikers gather to cheer their fellow shredders down from the top.

    For detailed directions to get there visit here.

    West Hourglass Couloir, Nez Perce, WY

    It’s hard to resist that photo op under the antler archway in Jackson Hole. But considering three million other people visit Grand Teton National Park every year, save the urge for later and head straight into the park and over to Lupine Meadows trailhead.

    You might find a full parking lot here too, since Lupine Meadows provides access to all major peaks in the Central Tetons, but if you hike your way out of the masses, about three hours up a dirt trail to the base of Nez Perce’s many couloirs, your camera will be thanking you.

    One boot pack up West Hourglass Couloir and you’ll be situated at 11,901 feet with a panoramic view of the Grand and Middle Teton.

    Skiing down may not be easy at 40 degrees but the surrounding rock walls sure are beautiful. While conditions hold nicely into the afternoon – the couloir doesn’t see much sun until later in the day – this slope is an active avalanche path. Make sure you have proper knowledge of conditions beforehand.

    Checke here for details on getting to the trailhead.

    Note on Safety

    Please use this guide responsibly. As with any activity, your best bet is to venture out with local experts, and please help preserve the fragile ecosystems above treeline by minimizing your impact, always.

    Keep in mind that while summertime is less prone to avalanche danger, rock fall is just as abundant. Prior snow safety instruction and extensive experience in the backcountry are a must.

    Check with local guides, keep your guidebooks handy, and refer to a local avalanche forecaster before hitting any alpine slope.

    Rescue beacon, crampons, harness, rope, ice axe, and medical supplies are some of the essentials you’ll need during your ascent/descent, and early morning (before sunrise) departures should be a no brainer. Double check trailhead fees in local wilderness areas and find out if you need a permit.

    Like the idea of hitting one of these places but have no idea where to begin? Check out out our First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding.

    The 5 Best Treks In Nepal

    19 Aug 2008 in Adventure, Guides, Nature by David DeFranza

    Feature photo by thetravellinged. Photo above by jmhullot.

    From the Langtang Region to the Annapurna Circuit, this guide takes you through five of the most beautiful and rewarding treks in the Himalayas.

    When you walk the crowded streets of Thamel, Kathmandu you will be bombarded by signs advertising trekking tours, guide companies, and a number of shops selling new and used gear.

    Photo by phitar.

    And with good reason: the treks in Nepal, which wind through the world’s highest mountains, are unique in the world.

    The only problem is picking which one you want to do first.

    Here, in no particular order, are five of the best treks in Nepal:

    1. The Langtang Region

    A trek through the Langtang region will take you to 4,700 meters (15,419 feet) with excellent views of both the Annapurna region to the west and the Makalu region to the east. The trek also passes by Buddhist monasteries and a nature reserve renowned for animal viewing.

    Perhaps the best thing about the 14-day trek is that it begins near, or even in, Kathmandu. This makes it very easy to organize and is an excellent option for those pressed for time or looking for an easy introduction to trekking in Nepal.

    For more information about trekking in the Langtang region, check out the excellent guide at Yeti Zone.

    Photo by judepics.

    2. The Mt. Everest Circuit

    Nestled in the Khumbu region, home to Sherpa and Tibetan Buddhist cultures, there are many reasons to visit this area of Nepal besides getting a glimpse of Chomolungma, as Everest is known to the people who live around her.

    Treks in the Khumbu typically range from 17 to 25 days, depending on the route. Though it was once popular to begin treks into the Khumbu from just outside Kathmandu, heavy Maoist activity in these areas has forced most trekkers to fly to Lukla, which sits at 2,680 meters (9,380 feet).

    From Lukla, most trekkers head straight for Namche Bazaar and then on to Gorek Shep, a small town that provides unparalleled views of Mt. Everest. Going all the way to Everest base camp or making the route a loop by visiting the Gokyo Lakes (highly recommended) will both add days to the trip.

    For help planning, the Yeti Zone has an excellent description of the Everest Circuit, including the Gokyo Lakes loop.

    Photo by Curr_En.

    3. The Annapurna Circuit

    The major trek in the west of Nepal is the Annapurna circuit. Reaching a height of 5,300 meters (17,388 feet), the circuit traverses the incredible mountains and glaciers of the Annapurna Conservation Area.

    The circuit takes between 16 and 20 days from Pokhara, Nepal’s third largest city. Though the elevations are just as high as in Khumbu, the Annapurna Circuit begins near sea level and allows more time for gentle acclimatization.

    The Annapurna circuit is popular because it allows trekkers to pass through diverse terrain, from jungle to high alpine, and passes through a region dominated by Tibetan Buddhist culture. At one point, trekkers even have the opportunity to look into the heavily restricted Mustang Region, which extends all the way into Tibet itself.

    Yeti Zone also provides an excellent guide to the Annapurna Circuit.

    Photo by judepics.

    4. The Annapurna Sanctuary

    The Annapurna circuit itself does not actually go to the common base camp of Annapurna. It is the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, which also begins from Pokhara, that leads to the base of this impressive 8,091 meter (26,545 feet) mountain.

    The trek takes between eight and ten days, round trip from Pokhara, and can be a real trial for the unacclimatized. The base camp, at 4,157 meters (13,638 feet), can also be reached as an extension from the Annapurna Circuit.

    At the edge of the base camp is the memorial to Anatoli Boukreev. Boukreev, one of the world’s great mountaineers, was killed in an avalanche on the peak in 1997. For lovers of mountains and mountain lore, the experience is moving, to say the least.

    Matador Trips will be publishing a detailed guide of the Annapurna Sanctuary trek later in August.

    Photo by judepics.

    5. Mt. Kangchenjunga Circuit

    If you are looking for something a bit more remote and much less traveled, the trek to the base camp of Mt. Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters, 28,169 feet) may be just the thing.

    It is best to plan at least 20 days to reach the base camp of the world’s third highest peak and return. Unlike the other treks on this list, the amenities on the Mt. Kangchenjunga route will be basic. While a tent is not required, expect meals of daal (lentils), rice, chapati (an unleavened bread), and the occasional vegetable curry.

    Well off the beaten path, the Kanchenjunga Circuit is a great way to spend time with local Nepali people far away from the hordes of other trekkers who flood more popular treks in peak seasons. For more information on the Mt. Kanchenjunga Circuit, check out Andris Bjornson’s excellent guide at Matador Trips.

    Community Connection:

    Check out the organizational profiles of Matador members offering volunteering opportunities in Nepal, including The Red Panda Project and The Everest Peace Project. Do you have an organization doing great work around the world? List your organization with Matador today!

    Top 10 Most Dangerous Waves in the World

    12 Aug 2008 in Guides, Nature by Rhys Stacker

    Feature photo by REUTERS/Mike Hutchings. Photo above by kanaka

    These days, with super advanced equipment, tow in access, and internet swell tracking, a growing number of surfers are getting rides on incredibly powerful waves.


    What makes a wave dangerous?
    Is sheer size an accurate indicator for how hazardous a surf spot is? Read on for our roundup of the top ten most dangerous waves in the world.

    1. Cyclops (remote south coast Western Australia)

    This ultra square-shaped, below sea level, one-eyed monster tops the list for good reasons. It’s impossible to paddle into on a surfboard and almost unrideable towing behind a jet ski.

    If you blow a wave here you’ll be washed straight onto the dry rocks, which is a bummer because the nearest medical help is hours away.

    2. Teahupoo (Tahiti)

    The scary thing about Teahupoo (pronounced Cho-poo) is that as the swell gets beyond 10 feet the wave doesn’t so much get taller, it just gets more enormous, often looking like the entire ocean is peeling over with the lip.

    Falling off here is almost a guarantee of hitting the razor sharp coral reef below, which wouldn’t be so bad if the locals didn’t insist on using fresh Tahitian lime juice to sterilise the reef cuts. Ouch.

    3. Shipsterns (Tasmania, Australia)

    Set along a remote length of pristine Tasmanian coastline, you could almost call this area picturesque if the wave itself wasn’t so ugly.

    Raw Antarctic swells come out of deep ocean and jack up into a roaring righthander in front of the cliff which gives the spot its name. The uneven reef causes weird steps and bubbles in the wave, which are always a pleasant surprise when you’re still trying to navigate the drop down the face.

    Photo by jurvetson

    4. Dungeons (Cape Town, South Africa)

    It’s not that shallow and it doesn’t break in front of any rocks, but it is located off the tip of South Africa in the freezing Southern Ocean in shark infested waters. Dungeons regularly holds waves up to 70 feet, which is why organisers have chosen to hold the annual Big Wave Africa contest here since 1999.

    5. Pipeline (Oahu, Hawaii)

    The shallow lava reef that shapes Pipe’s famous round tube is actually full of trenches and bumps -meaning a nasty old time for anyone falling out of the lip from 12 feet above. Which happens with surprisingly regularity, even to the experienced locals.

    Perhaps almost as dangerous are the insane crowds that flock to Pipe any time it gets good, with fearless Hawaiians competing with pros, wannabes and tourists for the set waves.

    Photo by felipeskroski

    6. Desert Point (Lombok, Indonesia)

    This beautiful lefthander peels over very shallow coral somewhere off the dusty island of Lombok. The wave is less dangerous than the hazards of extreme boredom during flat spells (there’s nothing on land but a few run down losemans), overcrowding, contracting malaria and the fact that medical access is hours away.

    7. The Cave (Ericeira, Portugal)

    With all the ingredients that a dangerous wave should have, including a shallow reef, urchins and hot-tempered Latino locals, its not surprising The Cave has been described as Europe’s heaviest wave. It was once the preserve of Portugal’s bodyboarding set, but pros like Tiago Pires have been taking it on in recent years – and surviving.

    Photo by bevankoopman

    8. Lunada Bay (California, USA)

    Perhaps one of the best right handers in California, Lunada is a great performance wave at six feet but it also handles swell right up to 20 feet. It’s not an overly dangerous wave in itself, but the locals are another matter.

    Visiting surfers have reported slashed tyres, rocks thrown, fist fights and a seemingly disinterested local police force. You’re on your own here.

    9. Gringos (Arica, Chile)

    Chile has a bunch of waves as equally as heavy and urchin-infested as this one but El Gringo is included in this list because of the damage it did to the pro surfers who surfed it in 2007’s WCT event. There were numerous broken boards, embedded urchin spines and slashed heads. And they surf for a living. Imagine what it’d do to you?

    10. Tarqua (Lagos, Nigeria)

    The good news is that this beach break located at the entrance to the Lagoon of Iddo in Lagos is often a fun, wedging peak. The bad news is the 60 million litres of raw sewage and tonnes of industrial waste produced by the 8 million inhabitants of Lagos every year that flows out into the ocean. Other hazards include floating carcasses, rubbish and the occasional mugging on the beach.

    Community connection

    Looking for waves for mere mortals? Check out Spencer Read about searching for surf in Vietnam with Rhys Stacker’s “China Beach and Beyond” article here.

    And for an all around great surf story and guide to Central America, check out Spencer Klein’s classic Another End of the Road.

    The World’s Most Spectacular Roads

    3 Aug 2008 in Adventure, Destinations by Juliane Huang
    For those who consider the journey to be as important as the destination, road trips have long provided amazing views and a sense of adventure.


    Below are some of the world’s most spectacular roads
    . Fair warning to viewers: these images are shockingly attractive and have been known to induce wanderlust in those who gaze upon them.

    Denali National Park, Alaska, Photo by nicmcphee

    Timgad, Algeria, Photo by gabyu

    Italy, Photo by skino

    Illinois, United States, Photo by jamesjordan

    Zion National Park, Utah, United States, Photo by wolfgangstaudt

    Dades Gorge, Morocco, Photo by wolfgangstaudt

    Meadowlands, New Jersey, United States, Photo by bobjagendorf

    Greenwich Township, Berks County, Photo by nicholas_t

    Highway 98, Arizona, United States, Photo by paraflyer

    Las Canadas del Teide, Spain, Photo by hyperfinch

    Monument Valley, Utah, United States, Photo by hyperfinch

    Himalaya Highway, Photo by babasteve

    Route 40, Argentina, Photo by rob

    Beaver, Utah, United States, Photo by areyoumyrik

    Glacier Point, Yosemite National Park, United States, Photo by candiedwomanire

    Utah, United States, Photo by areyoumyrik

    Pacific Coast Highway, California, United States, Photo by tylerdurden

    Lehigh County, Pennsylvania, United States, Photo by nicholas_t

    Lapaz to Coroico, Bolivia, Photo by backpackerben

    Southern Bolivia, Photo by philliecasablanca

    Camino a Urubamba, Cusco, Peru, Photo by lebce

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