Castles, Wine, and History on The Cathar Trail

Photo by Wy@rt

This summer at Montpellier’s food and wine festival, Le Festin de Rabelais, I fell in love with the A.O.C. Corbieres reds.

These earthy wines, whose color is reminiscent of the orange-red soil of the region, inspired me to visit the wilds of the Corbieres. There I found more great wine, good food, incredible places for walks and hikes, and a stunning history, that of the Cathars.

In the middle ages, particularly the 12th and 13th centuries, the Cathars were a spiritual-religious group of people all across France who interpreted Christianity differently from the surrounding Catholic orthodoxy. They were especially concentrated and well-received in the south, in and around the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

They followed what they saw as a more authentic spiritual path, one that held the sensory and material world as the deception of a false god, not a divine creation. The path out of this deception was to deny the material world its power, to live a simple life, and to focus on one’s spiritual origins.

Woven into these fundamentals were the practice of vegetarianism, equality of the sexes, belief in reincarnation, and forsaking material consumption for power and display.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

In Languedoc, the Cathars were protected by the count of Toulouse and permitted to carry on their ways, unlike in other parts of France where Catharism was treated as heretical. This held until the early 13th century when the Cathars were deemed too successful and independent.

Both the king of France and Pope Innocent III wanted dominion over them: what they really wanted was possession of the south. Together, king and pope came down on the Cathars in a crusade, Christian against Christian, massacring anyone in their path.

Called the Cathar Crusade or the Albigensian Crusade, after the southern city of Albi, this is one of the darkest marks in the history of France and of Christianity.

Today, there is still a somber and mournful feel to the sites. As you travel through a vast sea of vineyards and rolling hills, you encounter countless crumbling castle-fortresses on hilltops, reminders of a dangerous past.

There is also a surviving spirit, whispering that the Cathars survived in their own way, and that tolerance is far more valuable than what’s gained through greed and corruption. The Cathars today are something of a romantic group in the country’s imagination. Some people even say there are living Cathars in these remote hills.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

Here are my recommendations on how to enjoy this region in a low-key and affordable way:

1. You really can’t go wrong on any road you take.

This is especially true if you head from the north around Béziers, Narbonne to Carcassonne, then south to Foix, Limoux, Quillan, Lagrasse, and Durban.

All along the way, vineyards welcome unscheduled drop-in visits and tastings with colorful and often creative roadside signs. You’ll find a warm and welcoming people, so don’t be shy to give it a go and don’t worry if your French consists of the rudiments of the last pages of your travel guidebook. Wine is a universal language and easily understood.


2. Whether you opt to walk, cycle, or drive, follow the Cathar Trail.

The Cathar Trail, or Le Sentier Cathar, gives one of the best cross sections of the Corbieres, not to mentioncovering the major Cathar sites of the wider region. The trail is around 250 kilometers and starts in Narbonne.

It continues to Port-la-Nouvelle, Durban, Padem, Duilhac, Galamus, Bugerach, Quillan, Puivert, Espezel, Comus, Montségur, Roquefixade, and on to end in Foix.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

    3. Take a few detours:

  • Renne-le-Chateau, near Couiza, for a seriously New Agey place dedicated to both Mary Magdalene and Cathar history
  • Limoux for the warm cheer of the town. Take a picnic lunch along their river, and and try the Blanquette de Limoux, a solid sparkling wine that has absorbed the red mineral of the soil.
  • The castle at Arques, offering a lovely drive through low green hills, along valley streams, and deep into that red earth.

4. The entire Aude, of which Corbieres is a part, is dotted with vineyards and little restaurants and cafes advertising the local vintages and fare. Corbieres has a huge variety of terroirs, a fact you’ll easily understand as you wind around its hills, forests, and streams that result in several different growing zones.

Keep your eye open for restaurants and cafes where the locals are gathering; these are a sure sign of a good place.

Some Resources:

The Cathar Way – A Walker’s Guidebook by Alan Mattingly (ISBN: 9781852844868), published by Cicerone Guides.

The Sentier Cathar – In the Footsteps of the Cathars

The Cathars of Languedoc

Community Connection

Matador member toby has blogged about another French wine warren, the Rhone Valley. And Matador contributing writer Craig Martin gets you up to speed on wine know-how in his informative article, How To Drink Wine Like a Pro.

Oeno travelers may like to record their favorite wines and wine experiences in The Little Black Journal of Wine: A Wine Lover’s Record Keeper

How to Rock a Tapas Bar When Traveling Solo

Feature photo by Perrimoon / Above photo by Beebe Bahrami

Tapas bars are all about meeting friends for a snack and a drink after school or work.


If you are traveling alone
, tapas bars both pull and repel: you want to be a part of the mob scene, eating and drinking, but you feel you’ll stick out, or it’s so crowded you don’t have your own mob of friends to help push you in.

Many times in the past I’ve wandered by a packed tapas place in Spain’s cities and was dying to go in but felt intimidated as a solo female traveler. But after 22 years of facing the invisible barrier, I’ve overcome the psychological obstacles that held me back.

Photo by jenny downing

Here are 5 tried and true tips to have a marvelous time joining the mob scene at tapas places and enjoying some of Spain’s best cuisine:

1. Pick the tapas place well.

Many cities in Spain have certain streets known exclusively for their tapas. Ask around for these spots. Once there, go into the places that are mobbed with warm, gregarious locals. This is always the sign of a place with great tapas and a welcoming attitude.

2. Read the menu from the outside.

From the edge of the bar, locate the chalk board or printed listing of tapas being offered and decide what you want. Memorize it, as well as what you want to drink. Then slowly move in.

Photo by clspeace

3. Don’t be intimidated when you order.

Everyone is packed in? No room at the bar to place your order? No matter, Spanish bartenders are some of the most aware and mindful people on the planet. Have faith in them and patiently worm your way toward the bar.

As you do, one of two things will happen. Either the bartender will make eye contact and expect you to tell him what you want to drink and eat, or, the sea will start to part and you’ll eventually get to the bar counter and can place your order there.

Then, hold the spot for as long as you like. Or, pay up and carry your drink and tapa out to the edge again. I prefer holding the spot. It’s more central and fly-on-the-wall-ish.

Photo by Brian Solis

4. As you eat and drink, exude confidence.

Do whatever it takes, a silent mantra, if necessary: “I belong here, I am a part of this afternoon/night, I belong.”

Suddenly, you do belong, you have a place. Spaniards love confidence and honestly. Even if no one is meeting you there or talking to you, you obviously are there for some good reason. That confident look says it all. Relax, soak it up, watch people, take in what they are eating and drinking, what they are wearing and talking about.

In doing this, you expand the sensory experience of these rich, vibrant places.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

5. When you are done, move on.

Check out the next place that strikes your fancy. Or, locate the perfect spot for dinner and when you are seated, exude the same confident posture and look. It’s infectious.

One last parting word of advice: In the big cities and the really swank and touristy parts of town, always know where your wallet is and don’t have anything on you that can be easily pick-pocketed or that is of great value. This foresight also makes for a more relaxing and enjoyable night out.

Community Connection

For more on Spain, including blogs, local travelers to connect with, local experts to show you around, and volunteer opportunities, please check out Matador’s Spain page.

The 10 Most Spectacular Train Journeys in the World

22 Nov 2008 in Best Trips, Fresh Ideas by Matt Scott

Feature photo by Train Chartering, Private Hire Trains & Rail Cars
. Photo above by motxilos!

Here are some of the best trips anyone can take on a train.
Glacier Express

Taking almost eight hours to complete its journey, the Glacier Express has a reputation for being the slowest ‘express’ in the world – but it’s also one of the most beautiful. Linking the two mountain resorts of St. Moritz and Zermatt in the Swiss Alps, the journey covers 291 bridges and 91 tunnels.

At its highest point, the Glacier Express reaches 2,033 meters (6,670 feet) in altitude at the Oberalp Pass as it travel through some of the most stunning mountain scenery Europe has to offer: alpine meadows, mountain streams, snow peaked mountains and glacial valleys.

Harzer Schmalspurbahnen

Situated in the Harz mountains of central Germany, this route connects the main cities of Wernigerode, Nordhausen and Quedlinburg, as well as several smaller towns in the region. It passes over 140 km (87 miles) of steep track, through stunning forest and mountain scenery.

Renowned for being the longest narrow gauge track in Germany and featuring only steam locomotives, the Harzer Schmalspurbahnen is a unique way to discover this relatively unexplored area of Germany.

Photo by lazytom.

Eurostar

What better way to reach the continent for a weekend break, or the start of longer travels? With the completion of the high-speed rail link and the opening of a new station at St. Pancras, only 2:15 hours separate central Paris and central London.

Eurostar now operates from three English terminals–London, Ashford, and Ebbsfleet–and offers direct services to northern France, Central Paris, Disneyland Paris, Brussels, and ‘Snow Train’ routes to southern France, all at a top speed of 300 KmH (186 mph).

The Orient Express

Few names conjure up images of luxury and indulgence like the Orient Express.

The setting of mystery novels, dozens of films, and witness to countless romantic encounters, the original (and some would argue the best) ‘Great Rail Journey’ offers luxury from a bygone era while visiting some of the continent’s best cities: London, Venice, Rome, Budapest and Prague.

Photo by Zed.Cat

The West Highland Railway

The West Highland Line, running from Glasgow to Fort William and Mallaig, is one of Britain’s top rail journeys, taking passengers back to a time when steam was the way to travel. It passes through the wild Rannoch Moor, and through hills and bogs within view of Ben Nevis – Scotland’s highest peak.

One of the highlights of the journey is passing over the Glenfinnan Viaduct- one of the largest concrete engineering feats of the late 19th century (and more popularly known for appearing in the Harry Potter films).

The Trans Siberian Railway

The Trans Siberian Railway is the ultimate rail journey, the longest in the world (and possibly the coldest if you go at the wrong time of year), a journey of almost mythical proportions that spans two continents while staying in a single country.

There are three routes that travelers can take to explore the Siberian expanse: The Moscow-to-Vladivostok route at over 9,000 km (6,000 miles), and two routes from Moscow to Beijing: one through Mongolia, taking six days and almost 8000km (5000 miles), or one which takes almost a week to complete and travels via Manchuria.

Without leaving your seat, you pass through the end of Europe and cross almost the width of Asia, clattering your way across nearly a third of the globe.

Photo by Che89.

Jungfraubahn

At only 9km (5.5 miles), great railway journeys don’t get much shorter than the Jungfraubahn. Running from Kleine Scheidegg to the highest railway station in Europe at Jungfraujoch, this Swiss cog railway runs almost entirely though a tunnel built into the infamous Eiger.

Two stations in the middle of the tunnel allow passengers to disembark and look out over stunning mountain views. However, though it’s a short trip, this classic route does not come cheap.

The Flam Railway

The Flam Railway runs 20km (12 miles) between Myrdal, at 865 meters (2838 feet) above sea level, down to the fjords of Flam. This is an incredible feat of engineering, one of the steepest non-cog railways in the world and Norway’s most spectacular tourist attraction.

Boasting views over part of the world’s longest fjord – Sognefjord – as well as deep river valleys and airy peaks, the train seemingly clings to the side of the mountains in an unforgettable journey.

Photo by Ant and Carrie’s Photos.

The Danube Express

Explore the very best of Eastern Europe with luxury train travel on the ‘Hotel on Wheels’. From the mythical Transylvania and the fairy tale cities of Budapest and Prague to Sofia and Krakow, the Danube Express offers six classic journeys across the former Soviet states, combining rich history and beautiful cities with stunning scenery.

For those with a longing for the classic days of rail travel, there is even the option to combine voyages into an epic Central and Eastern Europe exploration.

The Stendhal

Board in Paris in the evening and wake up in Venice the following morning. Saying goodbye to the City of Lights, the journey takes in picturesque French villages and the hills of southern France before taking the Simplon Tunnel under the Alps.

With a range of sleepers available- from six and four berth couchettes to one to three berth sleepers, the Stendhal doesn’t have the luxury or reputation of many other trains sharing the same track, but with tickets starting from around $60 one way, it is a timeless (and cheap) way to visit one of the greatest cities in Italy.

Community Connection:

Not headed to Europe any time soon? In North America, try 21 Trains that are Cheaper than Flying.

8 Natural Wonders of Chile

Chile, that thin, long country with mountains to the east and the ocean to the west, boasts astounding geographic diversity as one of its principal attractions for travelers.

From the Atacama Desert of northern Chile–some parts of which have not received rain in 200 or more years– to the massive glaciers of the south, where visitors are likely to experience weather that takes them through four seasons in a single day, Chile delivers on its promise.

Here are 8 natural wonders that should move Chile to the top of your trip list:

Photos: Julie Schwietert (Matador Travel)

1. The sand dunes of the Atacama Desert.

Photo: clearlycool (Flickr creative commons)

2. The massive glaciers of Tierra del Fuego.

Photo: angela7dreams (Flickr creative commons)

3. The 6000 ft. tall granite walls of Torres del Paine.

Photo: winkyintheuk (Flickr creative commons)

4. The penguins of Punta de Arenas.

Photo: Steve Deger (Flickr creative commons)

5. The active Volcán Villarica, just outside of Pucón.

Photo: philliecasablanca (Flickr creative commons)

6. The surreal world of the Atacama Desert.

Photo: magical-world (Flickr creative commons)

7. The pristine beaches of Easter Island.

Photo: magical-world (Flickr creative commons)

8. The quiet bays of Chiloe.

Photo: velazsolano (Flickr creative commons)

Photo: SFmatador (Flickr creative commons)

Community Connection: Have you been to Chile? Thinking about going? Share your favorite natural wonders or questions about Chile below. Read Matador member VickiElizabeth’s blog, “10 Things I Have Learned in Chile.” Check out Matador organization Patagonia Volunteer, which offers numerous opportunities for travelers to volunteer in the Southern Cone.

5 Best Drives in Puerto Rico

15 Nov 2008 in Destinations, Guides by Julie Schwietert

Feature photo by anaivette64 / Above photo by KidneyNotes

Unlike many other Latin American countries, Puerto Rico has a limited transportation system. While publicos (collective vans) can move you from one city to another, getting to the departure point is often difficult and time-consuming, and pinning down a schedule is next to impossible.

Driving the island is the best way to get to know Puerto Rico. At just 100×39 miles, it’s easy to discover almost all that Puerto Rico has to offer in a short period of time.

And what the island offers is extraordinary, especially considering its size. These five best drives will take you from the coast to the island’s interior, showing you the diversity of Puerto Rico’s geography:

  • the turbulent waves of the Atlantic north coast
  • the smooth as a plate waters of the Caribbean south coast
  • the curious karst limestone formations
  • the extensive underground cave system
  • the dense and lush rainforest
  • the desert

The itineraries include starting and destination points, with must-see sites along the route. Some lodging recommendations are also included.

Itinerary One: San Juan-Loiza-Rio Grande

If you want to hang out in the capital for a day or two before renting a car, Old San Juan is a compact, walkable historic center with plenty to see and do.

For an impressive view of the bay, climb to the top of either of the old city’s forts: Fuerte San Cristobal or Fuerte San Felipe (referred to as El Morro). Pass through the only remaining gate of the walled city and stroll along the waterfront “Paseo de la Princesa,” particularly inviting in the evening.

On weekend nights you’ll happen along arts and crafts vendors and musicians on this path. But if it’s daytime and you’re in the mood for art, check out Museo de las Americas, located in the Cuartel de Ballaja building.

And if you’re a late night music lover, no stop to San Juan is complete without a visit to the seedy but perennially popular Nuyorican Café. Celebrity sightings here have included Benicio del Toro and Scarlett Johansson…though not together.

This itinerary takes you to one of the island’s favorite beaches, but if you’re already jonesing for sand and surf, throw a towel down at Escambron (aka “La Ocho”), a small but worthy stretch of beach wedged between Old San Juan and “New” San Juan.

My own favorite though, is Ocean Park, a cleaner and typically less crowded beach in an upscale neighborhood just a couple miles away from the airport. If you decide to overnight before pressing on, check out lodging at Tres Palmas Inn, which is just across the street from the beach.

Photo by Oquendo

Once you’ve got wheels, head out of the city towards Loiza and Rio Grande. You could take the new toll highway, but you’d miss out on some spectacular driving. Instead, turn left on Road 187 before the airport and head through the beachside town of Pinones.

The road is lined with ramshackle kiosks where fried treats are cooked up on wood-burning fires, and if you’re thirsty, look for a man scaling a coconut tree with his machete; he’ll be happy to hack off the coconut’s cap and hand you a refreshing pick-me-up for a couple bucks.

This two lane road is ideal for rolling down the windows and turning up the tunes. Pull off the pavement, though, and you’re in for a real treat: a well worn track runs through the sand dunes overlooking the water and despite the rampant problem of litter, there’s some camera-worthy scenery and plenty of places to pull over to enjoy it.

Back on the pavement and leaving Pinones behind, you’ll cross the Rio Grande and head into the predominantly Afro-Puerto Rican town of Loiza, which has a rich and interesting history. The bridge that brings you into Loiza was constructed in the 1970s; before that, Loiza was geographically isolated and residents had to cross the river on a makeshift ferry.

If you stop here for a couple hours you’ll still get a sense that Loiza is on the geographic and social margins. Check out the small but beautiful church, named for Loiza’s patron saint, Saint Patrick (and ask a local to tell you why).

Ask around for the artist Samuel Lind and visit his studio, which is located in the home he’s been building for years. Lind is a famous painter, sculptor, and lithograph artist.

Head out of Loiza, still on 187, and follow the signs to Rio Grande. After some road that looks pulled straight out of a romantic movie, you’ll break back out onto the highway and find yourself just outside the town that’s home to North America’s only rainforest, El Yunque.

Check out Hal Amen’s The Best Hikes in Puerto Rico Guide for advice about best trails to visit in the park.

Rio Grande’s a good place to call it a day; head up into the hills for Villa Sevilla, a guest house owned and run by proprietors Marina and Wally Lawson. The grounds are rife with plantain, mango, passion fruit, and dozens of other fruits and vegetables, and when you hear the hens clucking you’ll know a fresh egg has just been laid.

Enjoy the salt-water pool and the views from the porch of the Chalet, which is perfect for a small group of friends. The smaller Casita is good for singles and couples. Marina and Wally are attentive proprietors and have been ranked #1 of all 97 B&B lodgings in Puerto Rico for the past two years on TripAdvisor.

Be sure to ask Wally if you can try his homebrew: beer made with passionfruit straight from the vine.

Photo by Coast Guard BM

Itinerary Two: Rio Grande-Fajardo-Guavate-Ponce

From Rio Grande, make your way southeast on Route 3 to Luquillo Beach, consistently ranked by guidebooks as one of Puerto Rico’s best. Luquillo’s waters are typically calm, and the expanse of beach is long, giving people plenty of room to stretch out.

If the afternoon sun has you burned out, drive Route 3 on over to Fajardo and visit Las Cabezas de San Juan, a nature reserve that contains seven ecosystems in a single park. The guides are knowledgeable and while securing entry to the park is onerous (see practical tips), the effort is worth it.

Stick around until dusk and then head out for Fajardo’s bay for a guided kayak trip through the bioluminescent mangroves. Puerto Rico has three of the world’s handful of bio bays, and Fajardo is the best on the main island. You can find a dozen or more operators trying to sell you a trip in the bay’s main parking lot.

Overnight in Fajardo and wake up with an appetite: you’re headed for Guavate, THE place to experience Puerto Rico’s favorite culinary delight: pig on a spit. Take 30 west to 52 south; exit at the sign for Guavate.

The road up to Guavate is lined with kiosks and open-air patios packed with people hungry to chow down on roasted or fried pork and tostones (fried plantains). Cars are parked every which way wherever drivers can find a space; be bold and follow suit.

Head back down the hill and hit the highway, headed southwest on 52 for Ponce, Puerto Rico’s second largest city and the so-called “pearl of the South.” This drive will take you through the mountains, and you’ll notice a drastic change in landscape—from moist and lush to dry and cactus-marked—once you start your descent towards Ponce.

Once in the pearl of the South, take a turn around the main plaza, stopping to see the old fire house, the cathedral, and—my favorite—King’s Cream ice cream (try the coconut and almond—together—they can’t be beat). Tuck in for the night at the historic, family-run and locally owned Hotel Melia (and be sure to enjoy breakfast the next morning on the rooftop terrace).

In the morning, scale the hill with the cross of La Vigia in your sights. If the elevator’s working, ascend to the top of the cross for a sweeping view of the Caribbean; if it’s not, check out the house.

If you’re wondering what else to do in Ponce, check with Quique at the Melia; he’s a friendly person who will go out of this way to help his guests.

Photo by bitshaker

Itinerary Three: Ponce-Guanica-Sabana Grande-Cabo Rojo

Ponce could keep you busy for a couple of days (did you take the trolley tour around town yet?), but head on out to the hills for another Fideicomiso property, Hacienda Buena Vista.

A former coffee plantation, Buena Vista is tucked into a densely forested mountainside just off Road 501, and offers an informative tour of the carefully restored house and the grounds. If you time your visit right, you might just get to try some of the locally made chocolate.

From Ponce, head west on Highway 2 towards Guanica. It was in this town’s bay where the US launched its invasion in 1898. Today, the town has become a little-visited but worthwhile stop for visitors to Puerto Rico’s southwest coast. Guanica is also noteworthy for its dry forest.

Somewhat out of the way, but worth the detour for the religious or simply curious, is the Virgen del Pozo (Virgin of the Well) sanctuary in Sabana Grande. Located on Highway 364, Km 2.4, the sanctuary attracts faithful Catholics asking or thanking the Virgin for miracles.

An entire room is filled with evidence of miracles, including photographs, crutches, medallions, and letters written by people grateful for the Virgin’s intervention.

An entire room is filled with evidence of miracles, including photographs, crutches, medallions, and letters written by people grateful for the Virgin’s intervention.

From here Sabana Grande, make your way southwest, picking up Highway 102. One of the few roads in Puerto Rico that can truly be called an oceanfront drive, 102 winds through old pineapple and sugarcane farms, leaving you on a stretch of two lane road where you’re driving almost level with the ocean.

Cabo Rojo has dozens of roadside kiosks where you can pull over and sample all kinds of seafood treats. Be sure to save this stretch of the drive for the sunset.

Itinerary Four: Cabo Rojo-Rincon

Highway 102 leads you north all the way up the western coast. Take it to Highway 429, which will lead you straight into the popular surfing town of Rincon. While you could spend a day or two just lounging on beaches here, don’t skip the lighthouse at Punta Gorda or the monument to the discovery of Puerto Rico, just north of Rincon in the town of Aguado.

Photo by Oquendo

Itinerary Five: Ponce-Corozal-San Juan

If you’ve had enough of the beach, choose north on Highway 10 instead of west when leaving Ponce, and head into the Puerto Rican interior. The road north will take you through the mountains, near the coffee lands of Jayuya.

You’ll skim the edge of the Rio Abajo State Forest before ending up in Arecibo, home to the famous observatory. While I’d only recommend a stop at the observatory if you’re really into astronomy, Playa Sardinera and the Natural Reserve of Cueva del Indio (Indian’s Cave) are both worth a visit before you head east towards San Juan.

Although you could take the slower, more scenic route, patching together a drive through some back roads between Arecibo and San Juan, Highway 22 might be a better option. If you want one more stop before arriving in San Juan and trying out some of the activities mentioned in Itinerary 1, be sure to swing by the Bacardi factory in Catano. Tours—and two drinks—are free.

After trying out these routes, you’re likely to see why Puerto Rico’s nickname is the “Island of Enchantment.” Sappy? Sure. But it’s also true.

Practical Tips:

*Several airports receive daily flights from the mainland US. The main international airport is located in the capital, San Juan (SJU). Other airports include Ponce and Mayaguez.

*Car Rental: You will need a driver’s license and a valid credit card. Debit cards are not accepted by all rental agencies, so if you’re planning on paying with debit, check with the local rental office before you arrive. A reliable and affordable local company is Charlie Car. With locations throughout the island, Charlie is a locally owned operation that has excellent service.

*Speed limit, distance, and gas: Don’t let the seemingly low prices at the gas pump fool you. Pull out your calculator; gas is measured in liters.

*Tolls: Have some cash on hand while driving; there are some tolls along these routes. For more information about tolls and driving in general, visit the Department of Transportation’s website. The site also has excellent detailed maps.

*Fideicomiso properties: Open only Wednesday-Sunday and rarely answering the phone, the Fideicomiso properties are difficult to get into, but are worth the effort. Call in advance for a reservation and be persistent.

8 Massive Mountains That Mortals Can Summit

Photo by thehutch

Spend much time in the mountains and you will inevitably find yourself gazing upward towards the high summits of great peaks.

If you are traveling in the Andes, Rockies, Alps, Himalayas, or another great range, the summits of these impressive peaks may seem like impossible objectives.

But in fact, the summits of even some of the highest mountains in the world are accessible to mere mortals: those with good fitness but limited technical experience. Of course, no trip into the mountains is without danger and those considering a trip up any mountain should be well versed in the hazards of changeable mountain weather and the difficulties of route finding.

More importantly, those considering a journey up a high mountain should be willing to take the time required to properly acclimatize. Failing to do so means failure, injury, and possibly death.

Keeping these caveats in mind, here are eight massive mountains that mortals can summit:

1. Mount Fuji

At 12,388 feet, Mount Fuji is not nearly the tallest mountain in the world. However, this imposing volcanic peak is the tallest mountain in Japan and seems to tower over the surrounding landscape.

The climb is aided by a network of well-stocked huts along the common trails that offer food and accommodation to weary hikers. Ascents of Fuji can easily be arranged independently, but it could be cheaper to join one of the many organized tours which typically include all food, lodging, and transport. Most people time their climb so they are on the summit at sunrise.

2. Mount Whitney

When approached from the east, Mount Whitney, the tallest mountain in the continental United States, looks like an impossible objective. However, the typical hiking trail, though long, is not unattainable.

The major challenges for those wishing to reach the 14,505 foot summit are the altitude, which requires adequate time for acclimatization, and obtaining a permit from the U.S. Forest Service.

Photo by Darcy McCarty

3. Mount Temple

Mount Temple, 11,624 feet, dominates the landscape around Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Canada. Situated in the middle of the Canadian Rockies, this is no easy feat.

Still, the summit is accessible by most fit hikers willing to work their way up the trail, which is a bit of a scramble at times. The best part of this trail, however, is that it provides all of the adventure of climbing a massive mountain, without requiring any advanced technical knowledge. Keep in mind, however, that route finding can be a particular challenge on this mountain.

4. Mount Kilimanjaro

At 19,308 feet, Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa. It is also a largely non-technical trekking objective. Dealing with the altitude is certainly the main challenge when ascending Kilimanjaro.

Fortunately, the popular Marangu, or “Coca-Cola” route, has several huts for climbers to sleep in while they adjust to the altitude. Other routes offer smaller crowds and the opportunity for camping.

Photo by TroyMason

5. Pokalde Peak

Pokalde Peak, also known as Dolma Ri, is a 19,048 foot trekking peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Climbing this massive mountain in the Himalaya requires adequate acclimatization, a good degree of physical fitness, and some exposed scrambling.

From the summit, trekkers enjoy views of Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Pumori. Climbing the peak does require trekking permits, which will total $350 to $400 USD. Also, a guide, easy to arrange in Kathmandu, can be helpful for acquiring permits and route finding.

If you want to venture into the Himalaya but don’t have summit fever, check out The 5 Best Treks In Nepal, Trekking the Annapurna Sanctuary in Nepal, and Trekking the Mt. Kangchenjunga Circuit In Nepal.

6. Pico de Orizaba

18,490 foot Pico de Orizaba, in Mexico, is the third highest peak in North America and an excellent objective for mountaineers of any ability.

Unlike previous peaks in this list, Orizaba does require the use of crampons, an ice axe, and possibly roped travel. Knowing how to self-arrest with an ice axe and basic knowledge of glacier travel are necessary, but not impossible to learn under the supervision of an experienced guide.

For more information, check out the excellent Mexico’s Volcanoes: A Climbing Guide.

7. Mount Elbrus

Mount Elbrus, 18,510 feet, is the highest mountain in Europe. Located in southeastern Russia, the summit is snow covered but accessible via cable car. The normal route is also fortified with a string of huts, making it easy to plan

accommodation and allow time for acclimatization. Several permits are required for climbers attempting Elbrus, so be sure to begin planning well in advance of your arrival in Russia.

8. Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado is the second highest mountain in South America and, at 22,608 feet, the highest on this list. Truly a massive mountain, Ojos del Salado would certainly require crampons, ice axes, and extensive glacier travel experience, if it weren’t located on the edge of the Atacama desert.

As it is, the peak is mostly dry and rocky from base to summit, making it an accessible, albeit challenging, objective for novice mountaineers or experienced hikers. The entire climb is typically described as a hike because though it is long and at a very high elevation, it is almost completely non-technical, except for an exposed scramble below the summit.

This final scramble, along with the extreme height of the mountain, means that hiring a guide is advisable for inexperienced hikers.

If you love hiking and want to try climbing some of the highest mountains in the world, any of these eight massive peaks would be a great place to start.

Photo by Darcy McCarty

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Plan on hiking the snowy, icy backcountry? Check out Hal Amen’s “How to Survive an Avalanche” and David DeFranza’s “11 Most Dangerous Mountains in the World for Climbers.”

GOODS: Get your climbing and hiking gear here! Crampons, Hiking Poles , and The Backpacker’s Field Manual, Revised and Updated: A Comprehensive Guide to Mastering Backcountry Skills are some of the items we recommend!

The Love Tour: World’s Best Cities for Singles

10 Nov 2008 in Destinations by Sascha Matuszak

Photo by seven_resist

I encourage every single person to go on a Love Tour across the planet. Go from city to town to village and find yourself a lover to enjoy it with. Do the love tour.


Just so you have an idea
of what you might be facing on this magnificent tour, here’s a list of my favorite cities for singles, and the reasons why I like them. Feel free to follow me on my tour, or just apply my reasoning to cities you like.

Or just close your eyes and spin the globe. Love, after all, needs no planning.

In no particular order:

Shanghai

If you are single, Shanghai could be a good place for you. I am not going to get into the Asian fetish discussion here; I am just putting forth theories based on observation.

Shanghai was once the Paris of the Orient; as such, it presented us with a collection of lush and lavish images of pre-WWII splendor. Shanghai was Casablanca with seductive beauties and cold-hearted gangsters instead of Nazis and Resistance fighters.

Today, Shanghai is the drop off point for all MBA students who cannot find a job in the US and are interested in adventure and thrill. Living costs are high for China, low for the West.

If you have an education, finding a job will not be hard. If you like to party, Shanghai is definitely partying. For single men, the many beauties of China, who come to the city from around the PRC to make their fortune, will make you lose your mind.

For single women who like the MBA type, Shanghai has tons of ‘em. If you like hot sophisticated Asian guys, then you are at a veritable buffet. Have fun.

Berlin / Photo by humain

New York

The only problem with New York is cost.

If you can rent a spot with some friends out in Brooklyn and have a job to afford it, then you’re in the mix. NYC has the best hot dogs on the planet. It boasts the best clubs, bars, theaters, museums — it is one of the most influential cities in the world.

There are more highly educated, single women in NYC than you can shake a drink at. Which makes it tough for other single women, statistically, especially if we include the vast numbers of muscle-bound, clean cut, fine dressing, paycheck-cashing gay men that bounce around the city all day and night.

But for some reason, even though single women abound, there are still cafes, bars, and parks filled with eligible bachelors. And any man who can make it in New York is probably worth spending some time with on the Love Tour.

Barcelona

Paris might be the City of Love, but Barcelona is the city of Luvin’. Paris is the last place you want to be if you are single. Couples everywhere smoochin’. It’s horrible. But in Barcelona, everyone is single. I am telling you: Everyone Is Single.

People are hanging out in the streets till all hours of the night drinking, eating, gesticulating wildly, kissing and gazing at each other, arguing and throwing stuff around. The food is amazing, the prices are good, Spanish people (men AND women) look and dress beautifully.

Barcelona / Photo by tóxico

The Bay Area

How can you possibly beat the Bay area? It can’t be done. Whatever your heart’s desire, the Bay’s got it. Studly gay men, punk rocker chicks, bald gong fu bad-asses, sultry Latinas and Asians, smooth Black women and hairy hippies.
The Bay’s got it all. And it is a beautiful city with a long history and a culture all its own.

As with NYC, if you don’t have the cash, all these wonders and treats are out of your reach. Kinda. It is possible to live in expensive cities for cheap and still have a great time as a single, but that is another column. This is just about where it’s at. In the Bay, you can head to a few places to get your single funk on:

Get yourself a Mission Burrito. Head to ChaChaCha and drink some Sangria. Put on a gimp suit and head to Castro or Folsom … check out the piers and strippers down on Broadway.

Get a tattoo at Goldfields: I did.

Go to North Beach and hit on an Italian. Then go have some pasta together. Head out to Sunset and chill on the beach, smoke Buddha and talk about the demise of the federal government with a cute intellectual.

Go to Oakland and peep the real life. Have some chicken or BBQ somewhere and walk around. Find a thug to love ya for a night.

If you have a gig keeping you afloat in the Bay, then you can have a very fine time.

NYC / Photo by Erica Simone

Berlin

Now a while back people might have disputed as to where the most fun is to be had in Germany. A few would have probably said Munich because of Oktoberfest, but other than that Munich has no parties. It is the center of the conservative south. Imagine Texas with lots of good beer.

A more knowledgeable cat might have said Cologne, because this city is just so much fun. The banks of the Rhine are a beautiful place to fall in love and there are cute little cafes and pubs scattered throughout the town.

But these days, nothing beats Berlin. It’s just too pimpin’ and too cheap. All of the artists, writers, punks, charlatans, seductresses and their hangers-on are leaving Budapest and going to Berlin to make love behind statues and on the steps of one of the dozens of museums.

The cost of living is the cheapest for its size anywhere in (northern) Europe and the citizenry is young and proud.

Any city in the former Yugoslavia

Yes. The former Yugoslavia has an impossible number of out of sight amazing ladies. The whole is surrounded by beautiful mountains, sleepy Carpathian towns, and tributaries of the Danube.

There are coastal towns that will make you marry the next person who smiles at you and settle down to have children together. The mountain towns will swallow you up and you will stagger out of bed for the sole reason that cevapcici tastes heavenly. Many a traveler have stumbled upon this paradise and stayed for years.

And it is affordable. Everyone can speak a bit of English and no one will carry you away to some dungeon. You can live there for a long time by just hanging out and getting to know people. You will most likely get taken in.

I shouldn’t be telling you this.

Portland, Oregon

This place is just too cool. The people here are so aware and so enlightened that permaculture in your backyard is a must. Sage and rosemary grow around the neighborhood. There are bike clubs and strip joints and parks and hot springs just a few miles away.

You have Mt. Hood and Mt. St Helens within driving distance, and coastal towns like Astoria are a bit more than a day. It’s a great place to find a partner and build a dream home off the grid.

Now, I have been to some cities and had a great time, but there are dozens and dozens of beautiful, amazing cities out there that I have never been to that are reputed to have a great singles scene. Here is a short list based on hearsay:

Cali, Colombia

Forget what you heard. This place is supposedly chill and easy with excellent food, dance clubs and cool little bars everywhere and – without question, so they say – the most beautiful women in the world. And they are nice and friendly.

Unfortunately, this place might be a little hairy for single women. But I have met some badass women along the road and if you are one of those, then go to Cali, grab a dude and go emerald hunting. Cuz although Cali is cheap, there ain’t much there in terms of work for a gringo save the emerald business. Teach English? Enjoy.

San Francisco / Photo by Al Bar

Sydney, Australia

Supposedly one of the youngest (people-wise) cities in the world, and one of the hardest partying. I am not sure if this is all true, because the Aussies I usually talk to are drunk and hollering. So here is what I pieced together from all my sources:

There is the Outback on one side, the Gold Coast on the other and volcanoes and rain forest-covered mountains in between. All along this coast are small towns with all of the ingredients needed for an excellent time as a single nubile human.

And from what I hear, it is possible to stay on and get a job at the odd bar, restaurant or dive shop and live for a year or two. And Aussies are cool as hell. I have never met a more rowdy, drink-happy, friendlier group of people anywhere. Check it out and let me know what the deal is.

Santiago, Chile

I know everyone talks about Brazil and Argentina, but I have it from reliable sources that Chile is easier on the single traveler, just as beautiful if not more so, and the people are friendlier than (supposedly) snooty Argentines and less apt to stab you than a Brazilian.

Chile has all the coastline and mountainside you could ever ask for and the country is stable, very modern and the people seem sensible and chilled out after getting rid of their demons of the past.

As for jobs and housing, Santiago is cheaper than most American cities, but the job market for an unskilled vagabond might be slim. Try getting an indispensable skill or three before going on the Love Tour. It helps.

What cities would you add to the Love Tour? Share your favorite (and your reasons!) below.

Community Connection

Interested in how your love tour can translate into learning a new language? Check out Sascha’s companion piece: 5 Reasons Why Dating Abroad is the Best Way to Learn a Language.

Need to know more about getting your groove on as a mobile single? Check out Matador editor Tim Patterson’s perennially popular article, “Hostel Sex: A Practical Guide for Backpackers.” For some laws of love for the road, read Ekaterina Petrovna’s guide.

Need a little black book to log your love on the road? Matador recommends Moleskines.

Exploring the World’s Most Sacred Mountains

Feature photo by SparkyLeigh. Photo above by padraic woods.

A list of some of the most awe inspiring sacred mountains on the planet.

Some mountains have attained legendary status for their danger and difficulty. Others simply dominate the landscape, commanding the attention of all who pass by. Still other mountains are revered as sacred.

Whether thought to be the homes of gods or the sites of important historical events, these sacred mountains continue to draw pilgrims who often endure extreme hardships to show their devotion.

Even if you are not a member of the faithful, these sacred mountains are unique destinations for your own pilgrimage.

Photo by TCL 1961.

Mount Kailash

Few mountains are as distinctive as Mount Kailash. Rising prominently above the Tibetan Plateau, Kailash is the source of four of Asia’s biggest rivers and is considered sacred by four religions: Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Bon.

Located in western Tibet, Kailash is not the easiest peak to get to; a trip requires numerous permits and either a hired driver or agonizingly slow hitchhiking. Still, joining the thousands of pilgrims who travel to the mountain and make the 32 mile circumnavigation is an incredible experience well worth the effort.

Photo by feligoo.

Mount Sinai

In the Bible, God hands the law to Moses, who is charged with explaining it to the wandering Israelites, on the summit of Mount Sinai. Though the exact location is a matter of heated debate, many have traditionally thought the site to be either Mount Serbal, Mount Catherine, or Mount Sinai itself.

All are relatively close to one another and can be climbed via various hiking trails. Certainly, this would be an interesting, albeit hot, hike for anyone interested in biblical history.

Photo by Flickmor.

Adam’s Peak

Located in central Sri Lanka, Adam’s Peak is considered sacred by Hindus, Buddhists, and Muslims, but is also a minor pilgrimage site for Christians and Jews.

The draw is not the peak itself but an imprint in the summit variously believed to be the footprint of Buddha, Shiva, Adam, and Saint Thomas. The pilgrimage season reaches its peak in April and most ascents take place at night, allowing for sunrise views from the summit.

Photo by backpackphotography.

Devil’s Tower

Situated in the plains of northeastern Wyoming, the monolithic Devil’s Tower looms on the horizon, growing larger as visitors approach. Once at the base, the igneous columns sweep upwards, curving towards the crisp, western sky.

The tower is considered sacred by many Native American tribes, including the Lakota Sioux, Cheyenne and Kiowa. Ceremonies are held in the month of June, celebrating the Tower, during which time climbing is discouraged. If you want to climb to the summit, come prepared with technical gear and expertise as there are no walkable routes.

Photo by Peter Nijenhuis.

Uluru

Commonly called Ayers Rock, Uluru is a large rock formation in central Australia. Technically not a mountain, Uluru consists of the hard, rocky remains of a larger mountain that has eroded away. However, any visitor will tell you that the formation commands the landscape just as a mountain would.

Uluru is sacred to the Aboriginal people who live in the area. It is possible to climb Uluru, via a chain-assisted trail, but climbing is discouraged by Aboriginal people. Enjoying the dramatic colors of the formation at sunset, however, is recommended by everyone.

Photo by Antre.

Mauna Kea

At 13,796 feet, Mauna Kea is the highest peak in Hawaii. Some argue that Mauna Kea is, when the height from base to summit is considered, the tallest mountain on Earth. Either way, the summit of Mauna Kea is one of the best sites in the world for astrological observation.

It is thought that people have been looking at the stars from the peak for centuries and the mountain has important cultural significance to native Hawaiians.

In addition to stargazing, Mauna Kea is a site of prayer, burials, the consecration of children, and other ritual activities. The summit is accessible by trail or by Hawaii Route 200.

Photo by Aaron D. Feen.

China’s Sacred Mountains

If you are looking for sacred mountains, you need go no further than China. The traditional “must visit” mountains include Tai Shan, Hua Shan, Heng Shan, and Song Shan, the Five Great Mountains of Taoism, as well as Wutai Shan, Emei Shan, Jiuhua Shan, and Putuo Shan, the Four Sacred Mountains of Chinese Buddhism.

In addition, there are the Wudang Mountains and Laoshan, the legendary birthplace of Taoism. All of these mountains are serious destinations for Chinese and foreign tourists, featuring well-established infrastructure and sometimes massive crowds. If you are looking for a more relaxed destination in China, check out 8 Places To Experience Unspoiled China.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Fascinated by mountains and the people who climb them? Check out The Explorer’s Club: Travel’s Most Secret Society Revealed, Trekking the Mt. Kanchenjunga Circuit in Nepal, or Trekking the Annapurna Sanctuary in Nepal.

GOODS:

Jon Krakauer’s books about some of the world’s great mountains are classics of the genre. Try Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster, or Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains.

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