Beyond Lisbon and Algarve: Exploring the Lesser Known Portugal

24 Feb 2009 in Destinations by Claudio Silva

Feature photo by ►JOTA ENE◄. Photo above by Rhys Stacker.

While Lisbon and the Algarve coast are getting more and more popular, the rest of Portugal is wide open for novel travel experiences.

Before the World Expo 2000, Euro 2004, and Cristiano Ronaldo, Portugal was one of Europe’s secrets. People looked at it as “that other country” in the Iberian peninsula, a mere appendage of Spain. And besides, most people had studied Spanish as opposed to Portuguese, its superior, arguably sexier, counterpart.

After these events, however, the rest of the world began to take notice of the Portugal. Lisbon was described as trendy, and the Algarve coast was heralded as the new European beach spot. A tourist avalanche ensued.

While Lisbon is a spectacular, cosmopolitan city, and the Algarve coast has world class waves and seafood, the rest of Portugal is relatively unvisited. Read on to find out about five fascinating alternatives in the land of Magellan, Camões, and José Saramago that are definitely worth your while.

Porto

Photo by vhf.

The Cidade Invicta is Portugal’s second largest city, and its cultural heart. Downtown Porto had been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and features a different architectural ambiance than Lisbon.

The Romans named the city Portus Calle, from which the name Portugal was derived. Porto residents are incredibly proud of their hilly, industrial city.

The ultimate way to experience Porto is to drink port wine, which is native to that region (now you know where Port wine gets its name). The locals wax lyrical about vinho do Porto, and with just cause.

The city also offers stunning scenery, amazing local cuisine, a thriving art scene, a thumping nightlife, and the Douro River, which is an attraction by itself. If you are a fan of the beautiful game, do take in a match of futebol at the city’s Estádio do Dragão, where FC Porto teaches other teams how to play the sport.

Peniche and Óbidos

Peniche and Óbidos are two small towns located within 30 minutes of each other, about an hour north of Lisbon, but worlds away. Already popular with French and German tourists, Peniche is one of the westernmost points in continental Europe.

It’s a town of fine, sandy beaches, impressive waves, an abundance of water sports, rocky cliffs, whitewashed buildings dotting its coast, and some of the most delectable seafood in the country. It is also a great place for whale watching.

Óbidos is a different animal entirely. A medieval village of winding, cobblestone streets, it is Old Europe at its finest. Most of the village is located inside the city walls, and a large castle offers protection from possible invaders.

The best part? You can actually sleep in the Castle, as it is part of the Pousadas de Portugal hotel network. (If you have a couple hundred Euros to spare, that is.)

Sintra

Photo by Ivy Dawned.

Ok, so technically Sintra is within the Lisbon District, but it is a town and municipality of its own. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sintra’s allure is its architecture, a testament to the Romantic influence in the region.

The city houses several historical palaces including the Palacio da Pena and a Royal Palace used by Portugal’s nobility until the 1910 revolution. Other attractions include the old Moorish Castle, hailing from the time that the Iberian Peninsula was a stronghold of North African Arab and Berber kingdoms. The city is great for walking and contemplating the 19th century architecture.

Évora

To truly understand Portugal’s history and its people, a visit to the Alentejo Province is in order. The region is far from the ocean and offers a way of life uninfluenced by the cultural exchange common in all port cities. The cultural center of this region is the ancient town of Évora, which has been there for over 2,000 years.

Naturally, it contains a Roman temple, several ancient cathedrals and palaces, and the lovely Lóios Convent and Church, which were built in the 15th century and are also part of the Pousadas de Portugal network. It is no surprise that this is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Photo by Natália Tricô.

Coimbra

Coimbra houses one of the oldest universities in the world. With a population of over 30,000 students, 10% of them hailing from other countries, it is a given that Coimbra’s opportunities for night time debauchery are varied and intense.

Coimbra hosts two festivals in honor of its students, roughly in the beginning and end of each school year. The bigger of the two is the Queima das Fitas, an eight day long cornucopia of beer and entertainment.

Since Coimbra has been around for over a thousand years, it is another place where you will find a lot of Roman artifacts, as well as several imposing palaces, cathedrals, monasteries, libraries, and a stunning botanical garden.

[Author's note: Before going to Portugal, do brush up a bit on their three biggest soccer teams: Benfica, Sporting, and FC Porto. Pick an allegiance. Your knowledge of the sport will help you ease your way into any conversation. Also, the smallest effort to at least know some basic phrases in Portuguese will be appreciated. The Portuguese are proud people. I guess you would be too if Vasco da Gama was your compatriot.]

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If your trip to Portugal keeps you in the Algarve region, check out our Surfers’ Guide to the Algarve Coast, which offers advice about the best places to surf, sleep, and eat.

9 Places to Experience Now Before They Literally Vanish

19 Feb 2009 in Adventure, Destinations, Nature by Kelly Parker
From tropical islands to glacial terrain, beloved places around the world are literally disappearing due to various issues from global climate change and deforestation to abusive or poorly-managed tourism.

1. Tuvalu

Photo above by mrlins

This Polynesian island nation is only 10 square miles and 4.5 meters above sea level… at its highest point. Tuvalu is the fourth smallest country in the world and is slowly disappearing into the Pacific Ocean. It is poised to be one of the first nations to experience the effects of sea level rise caused by climate change- a real-life Atlantis in the making.

2. The Columbia Glacier, Alaska

Photo above by Wikimedia Commons

The Columbia Glacier in Alaska’s Prince William Sound is one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world. It has been estimated that this 54 km wide chunk of ice may well be transformed into a large fjord within 50 years and perhaps in less than a decade.

3. Rainforests of Papua New Guinea

Photo above by ajvhan

Papua New Guinea is home to the world’s third largest rainforest, with many microclimates and endemic species. Unfortunately, this area is being logged and cleared with little regard for the environmental consequences. Satellite imagery reveals destruction on such a large scale that within 12 years nearly all accessible forest is predicted to be destroyed or degraded.

4. Indo-Pacific Coral Reef

Photo above by kimberlyfaye

The Indo-Pacific contains 75% of the world’s coral reefs and has the greatest coral diversity in the world. An estimated 600 square miles of reef has been disappearing per year since the late 1960s, due to various causes, including deforestation and climate change. See it now before it’s gone.

5.The Maldive Islands

Photo above by Wikimedia Commons

A group of atolls in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives hold the record for being the lowest country, averaging just 1.5 meters above sea level. They are being threatened as the sea level continues to rise as a result of global warming, and may be totally submerged within 50 years.

6. Himalayan Glaciers

Photo above by ilkerender

These glaciers crown the highest mountain range in the world, and are the source of the seven largest rivers in Asia. If you’ve been gearing up to plan your Himalayan glacier trek, you might want to go soon: if the present rate of melting continues, a large number of them may disappear by 2035.

7. Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail

Photo above by kudumomo

The remains of this ancient Incan city are one of the most beautiful and enigmatic sites in the world. The ruins are rapidly being worn down by the thousands of tourists treading across its stones, and this unbridled growth in tourism is irrevocably damaging the site- including the Inca Trail which leads to Machu Picchu itself.

8. The Pyramids of Giza

Photo above by Wikimedia Commons

The Pyramids of Giza and the Great Sphinx are some of the greatest marvels of ancient Egyptian architecture. Yet, unrestricted development and urban sprawl from nearby Cairo threaten the ancient pyramids and the Great Sphinx. Air pollution eats away at the magnificent structures, and sewage from adjacent slums weakens the plateau upon which they stand.

9. Amazon Rainforest

Photo above by vaka0627

The Amazon rainforest alone produces more than 40% of the world’s oxygen and is the largest and most species-rich, diverse ecosystem on earth. It is estimated that the Amazon is vanishing at a rate of 20,000 square miles per year. If nothing is done, the entire Amazon could well be gone within 50 years.

Community Connection

The question remains: How can we visit these places without contributing to the very factors that accelerate their destruction? A good starting point is to find volunteer programs that align you with locals in everything from habitat restoration to education. Another consideration: choose alternatives to flying.

13 Dream Locations for Travelers in Love

Travel, like love, will change your life. Both force us to strip down to our most honest and real selves. And if you’ve found someone to share a journey with… then anyplace can become paradise. Here are a few.

1. Berlin, Germany

Photo: Roman Lashkin

Berlin: bullet-ridden buildings and graffiti adorned subways.

2. Tallinn, Estonia

Photo: chillihead

Tallinn: fairy tale city with crazy party scene.

3. Hồ Chí Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Photo: mknobil

Hồ Chí Minh City: French colonial buildings, traditional Asian temples, and a cosmopolitan nightlife, flying through chaotic streets by motorbike (xe om) and exploring old world monuments, sidewalk cafes, and rows of silk, spice, and medicinal markets.

4. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Photo: Marcelomdrs

Rio: Carnaval, Samba, footbal.

5. Australia

Photo: Corey Leopold

Australia: catching the sunrise at Ayers Rock. Diving at the Great Barrier Reef.

6. Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia, Canada

Photo: Rick McCharles

7. Big Sur, California, USA

Photo: Doug Letterman

8. Koh Chang, Thailand

Photo: v a i r o j

Escape the crowds of Phuket and head over to Koh Chang’s empty beaches.

9. Santorini, Greece

Photo: Wolfgang Staudt

Santorini: seaside cliffs, black sand beaches, and blue-and-white houses on the caldera’s edge.

10. Morocco

Photo: bachmont

Morocco: exotic treats in the Djemaa el-Fna market in Marrakech, getting lost in the twists and turns of the streets of Fes el-bali, surfing Essaouira.

11. Kerala, India

Photo: albany tim

Kerala: floating down the labyrinth of Kerala’s backwaters on a kettuvallom (a thatched-bamboo cargo boat), gliding by coconut trees and seaside villages.

12. Andalucia, Spain

Photo: jmsuarez

Andalucia: flamenco, bullfighting (ok, not so romantic), the royal Islamic architecture in the Alhambra.

13. Moscow, Russia

Photo: AlphaTangoBravo / Adam Baker

Moscow, Russia: land of intrigue, vodka, and Doctor Zhivago, the gilded minarets of St. Basil Cathedral and the lantern-lined streets of Old Arabat.

Samantha Brown’s Top 5 Valentine’s Day Getaways in the US

9 Feb 2009 in Couples, Relaxation by Juliane Huang

Feature photo and photo above courtesy of Samantha Brown.

The Travel Channel’s Samantha Brown has put together her top five romantic getaways for those in the US this Valentine’s Day.

With 10 years of travel experience, Samantha Brown is no stranger to overnight stays. Here are her five top hotel choices, from the lavish to economic. She also gives us tips on how to find a great hotel in the midst of a not-so-great economy.

1. Sunset Key Guest Cottages, Key West, FL

“It’s where I spent my honeymoon.”

Located on a luxury island 500 yards from Key West, Florida, the Sunset Key Guest Cottages offer patrons individual bungalows endowed with front porches and rocking chairs. Every morning warm muffins and freshly squeezed orange juice are left on the porch in a picnic basket for guests to enjoy over ocean views.

Rates start at $500 and climb depending on how high guests want to take their levels of luxury.

2.The Library Hotel, New York City, NY

Touted as Manhattan’s most celebrated luxury concept hotel, The Library Hotel defines modern elegance and extravagance. Rooms are filled with books on myriad subjects. From architecture to biographies, even to erotic literature, each floor is dedicated to one of the ten major categories of the Dewey Decimal System.

Around $375 lands guests complimentary breakfasts, including espresso and cappuccino, a wine and cheese reception, and in-room access to the top 100 films from the American Film Institute. On the penthouse floor, The Library Hotel offers a poetry garden and writer’s den.

Photo by drewsaunders.

3. The Pod Hotel, New York City, NY

“Create more space by holding on to each other; you were going to do that anyway right?”

For young hipsters on a budget but unwilling to stay at Motel 6, the Pod Hotel is the perfect alternative. Established on 51st Street, the Pod Hotel offers a great location at an affordable $79-99 a night with cool features (mp3 docking stations, free WiFi, LCD TVs), and a dimmer lights.

4. Hotel San Jose, Austin, TX

This former motor lodge is now a very cool hotel with a desert Zen atmosphere. Sitting in one of Austin’s hippest neighborhoods, Hotel San Jose offers a great location on South Congress Street.

Right across the street is one of the best live music venues, The Continental, and Joe’s Coffee, which plays movies in the parking lot and live music on Sundays.

Not for quiet lovebirds, Hotel San Jose is tailored more for the party couple looking to love it up and live it up together. And with $100 rates for shared bathrooms on weekends, this hotel is definitely an affordable option.

Photo by Beard Papa.

5. Inn of the Five Graces, Santa Fe, NM

“This was one of the best beds I have ever slept in. And being on the road 240 days a year, let’s just say I’ve slept around.”

Ranging on the more expensive side, the Inn of the Five Graces averages $375 a night for an intensely romantic, mysterious, and exotic experience.

Guests feel like they have been transported by Aladdin’s magic carpet as rooms are decorated with beautiful textiles some would expect to find on the silk road. The slow, relaxed dripping water sounds of the courtyard fountains and the superbly comfortable beds make this establishment truly phenomenal.

Value added extras: free mini bar, breakfast, wine and cheese reception every evening. One of the rooms even has carving of the Kama Sutra on the headboard.

How to find the best hotel for your ever decreasing buck:

  • Brown advises lovebirds to look for off-season destinations as one of the ways to help mitigate travel costs.”Right now it’s beaches, especially in the Northeast. Sure it’s cold, but you’ll have the place all to yourselves, which could be incredibly romantic.”
  • Or as an alternative to traveling on the amorous holiday, Brown suggests couples create a personal version by reserving their celebratory weekend for another day: “Valentine’s Day weekend is one of the busiest in the hotel industry, so hotels are going to be able to charge whatever they want.

    “But if you hold off and go just one weekend later, the rates will be substantially lower. So give your sweetie your gift of a romantic weekend on Valentine’s day, but scheduled for another time. If they don’t appreciate it, then my advice would be to break up with that person; they are only going to get worse.”

  • In the city, business hotels offer cheaper rates on the weekends (think Wall Street in NYC). “Take advantage of the road warriors going home.”
  • Las Vegas and Orlando have cheaper rates during the week.
  • Check out the destination’s Visitor’s Bureau website. “These sites really cater to people in search of deals.”
  • BedandBreakfast.com: B&Bs are great, inexpensive options for the cozy couple just looking to get away from it all. “They are no longer like staying at an aunt’s house that smells of bad perfume and cats.”

Community Connection:

For more information on Samantha Brown, including her taping schedule, you can visit her page on the Travel Channel website.

8 Cities That Burn Through Your Money

6 Feb 2009 in Destinations, Urban by Veronica Hackethal

Photo by James.

Sometimes travel calls for a splurge.

In Brussels, I went overboard on a $90 cab ride (it was a Mercedes– I’d never ridden in one before). The ride was worth every penny.

When traveling to a pricey destination, preparing mentally (and increasing your credit limit) can lessen the shock. A 2008 Mercer survey listed the following as the world’s most expensive cities:

1. Moscow

Moscow has been number one on Mercer’s list for the last three years. Home to the most billionaires in the world (74), Moscow’s cost of living is 42% higher than New York’s. On Tretyakovsky Proezd, you can stroll past upscale boutiques like Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., Armani, and Prada.

You can put your nose to the window on Tverskaya Street (Gorky Street), the nighttime playground of the nouveau riche Russians.

Thankfully, walking through Red Square is still free. And the Moscow Metro, with its famous architecture and artwork, only costs 19R ($US 0.70).

2. Tokyo

Photo by Anna Pearson

Along with New York and London, Tokyo is one of the world’s three financial command centers. In Tokyo, you can go overboard at the Aragawa Steakhouse, number one in 2006 and 2007 on Forbes Most Expensive Restaurants in the World list.

At Aragawa, you’ll pay upwards of $400 for the sake-fed Wagyu beef.

Luckily, Tokyo’s subway is cheap: 160 yen ($US 1.80) to 300 yen ($US 3.40). And a springtime picnic under the sakura (cherry blossoms) in Shinjuku Gyoen National Gardens won’t break the bank.

3. Oslo

Norway’s recent oil boom spurred a massive infusion of wealth. The maritime sector also remains strong, with many of the world’s largest shipping companies based here.

Prices on goods and services are among the highest of any city. A beer at a pub costs up to 87 NOK ($12). Hearing the fat ladies sing at the Norwegian National Opera will drain you of 160-400NOK ($US23-$US57).

4. London

Photo by Paul Bence

With English as the native tongue of business, London is another one of the world’s top financial centers. According to a recent Zagat survey, London is the priciest city in the world for dining. An average dinner here sets you back 58 GBP ($US 79).

Fortunately, a ride on London’s famous Tube starts at 1.60 GBP with an Oyster card, or 4.00 GBP in cash ($US 2.25-6.00), while the iconic double decker buses cost just 1.00-2.00 GBP ($US 1.50-3.00).

5. Seoul

Seoul is sixth in the world with respect to the number of Fortune Global 500 transnational companies headquartered here. The affluent Gangnam district will suck you dry.

But sampling kimchi at the Kimchi Field Museum only costs 3000 SKW ($US 2.20). Vices also come cheap in Seoul. A pack of Marlboro’s costs 1900 SKW ($US 1.40), and a pint of local Korean draft beer costs 2500 SKW ($US 1.80).

6. Copenhagen

Much of Copenhagen’s recent wealth stems from the Medicon Valley on its outskirts, one of the strongest pharmaceutical and biotech clusters in Europe.

According to British lifestyle magazine Monocle, Copenhagen was the best city for quality of life in 2008 and the World’s Best Design City 2008. A recent boom in modern architecture led to a profusion of buildings by Hadid, Liebeskind, Foster, and others. Thankfully, viewing the buildings is free.

7. Geneva

Here, the cost of living index is 50% higher than in Chicago or San Francisco. With a historically strong private banking tradition, Geneva remains the world’s sixth most important banking center.

Watchmaking also remains a stalwart, with Rolex, Patek Philippe, Raymond Weil, and Omega all headquartered here. Chocoholics beware: a twelve ounce assortment of Teuscher truffles sets you back SFr 44 ($US 38)!

8. Hong Kong

Photo: Steve Webel

Hong Kong is nearly 20% more expensive than NYC. With one of the freest capitalist economies in the world, Hong Kong has the greatest concentration of corporate headquarters in the Asian Pacific region.

Indulgences gouge you here. A superior room at the landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel costs HKD 3200 ($412) a night, and a 60 minute Chinese massage at the Mandarin’s spa costs HKD 900 ($116).

Luckily, the funicular that climbs the 373 meters between central Hong Kong and the Peak only costs HKD 22 ($US 2.84, one way).

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

With the economic recession spreading around the world, it’s unlikely that any of these expensive cities will be on budget travelers’ 2009 itineraries. If you’re looking for some shoestring itineraries, be sure to check out Matador’s budget guides, which cover Berlin, New York City, Paris, and Singapore, among others!

11 of the World’s Most Vegetarian-Friendly Cities

Vegetarian food / Photo by Herr_Bert

Whether you’re a staunch vegetarian or simply seeking new gastronomic experiences, put the following veggie-friendly cities on your travel agenda.

1. Singapore

With its sizable Indian and Chinese populations, going vegetarian is easy in Singapore. Hawker centers and food courts throughout the city offer plenty of veggie choices. Or head to colorful Little India for authentic, exclusively vegetarian cuisine at long-established Komala Vilas or chain restaurants Sagar Ratna and Saravana Bhavan.

2. Chiang Mai

The second largest city in Thailand, Chiang Mai is a haven for vegetarians and vegans alike. Open-air eateries within walking distance of the city center abound, and can usually be identified by yellow banners bearing a single Chinese character (‘jay’ or vegetarian).

Try a meatless version of Khao Soi, a northern Thai favorite consisting of egg noodles in a soupy coconut curry sauce, garnished with pickles, shallots, and lime.

Khao Soi / Photo by Jason Hutchens

3. Taipei

Based on Buddhist practices, vegetarian food in Taiwan has developed into a separate cuisine, replete with varieties of chewy “meat” fashioned out of gluten or textured soy protein. Taipei and Taichung, a smaller city in the central part of the island, teem with vegan food stalls and buffet-style restaurants serving everything from stewed “beef” to stir fried “squid.”

4. Kyoto

While Japan is generally not very veg-friendly, you can easily find unique Zen Buddhism-inspired vegetarian cuisine in Kyoto. Called shojin ryori, the multi-course meals are served in or near the city’s many temples, such as Nanzen-ji, Daitoku-ji, and Tenryu-ji.

Local specialties include yuba (tofu skin), fu (wheat gluten), and produce such as eggplant, daikon, and root vegetables. Dishes are meticulously prepared and presented; unfortunately, dinners can be quite pricey.

5. Vancouver

With a sizable organic and sustainable cooking movement, Vancouver is home to a large variety of vegetarian fare and natural food markets. Sample vegan pizza at Jamaican Pizza Jerk, satisfy late night comfort food cravings at The Naam, or take your pick from many ethnic and fusion restaurants around the city.

Photo by Rodefeld.

6. Sydney

From ethnic restaurants to beachside cafes, non-meat options are pretty much de rigueur in this laid-back city. Sydney is also particularly vegan-friendly with Chinese mock meat and vegetarian dim sum restaurants. Favorites include Iku Wholefood and Laurie’s Vegetarian Take Away.

7. London

The veggie dining choices in London are as diverse as its population, offering everything from meatless variations of British favorites, such as sausage and mash and shepherd’s pie, to masala dosa and chickpea tagine.

Exclusively vegetarian restaurants have also cropped up, serving creative fusion fare. Notable eats include Riverside Vegetaria, The Gate, and Manna.

8. San Francisco

With its countercultural traditions and penchant for locally grown foods, the Bay Area has long boasted plenty of veggie-friendly choices. Snack on tofu dogs at a Giants’ game in AT&T Park, check out the vegan ice cream at Maggie Mudd, or splurge on a vegetarian feast at Millennium.

9. Portland, OR

Portland buzzes with an eco-friendly vibe and it’s quickly becoming an herbivore’s dream destination. From downtown food carts to eclectic restaurants and stores, such as Paradox Palace Café, Voo Doo Doughnuts, and Food Fight!, Portland’s got something even hardcore vegans will appreciate.

Photo by ~MVI~.

10. New York City

The vegetarian experience in the city that never sleeps goes beyond ethnic dining. Whether you’re seeking kosher raw foods, gourmet macrobiotic dishes, or vegetarian diner fare, you will find it here. NYC is also home to a number of health food stores, as well as the Natural Gourmet Cookery School, which offers a four-course vegetarian dinner prepared by students each Friday.

11. Mexico City

Purely vegetarian restaurants and health food stores can be found throughout the city, including chains of Super Soya, The Green Corner, and Vegi Market.

Street vendors, hawking fruit (coconut sprinkled with chili and lime), elote (corn), and fresh juices, among other goodies, also ensure that vegetarians eat well in Mexico City.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you prefer cooking for yourself on the road, check out Eva Holland’s article, “What Every Backpacker Should Know About Cooking for Themselves.”

World’s Most Amazing Archipelagos

Feature photo by Uninen. Photo above by nattu.

These geographic wonders have a wealth of beauty.

An archipelago is an “expanse of water with many scattered islands,” or a cluster of islands, typically found in the open sea. Although generally the result of volcanic activity, archipelagos are also shaped by other forces of nature, including erosion and rising or falling sea tables; as dynamic land masses, archipelagos tend to offer dramatic scenery.

Here are some of the most amazing examples worldwide:

Tierra del Fuego

Photo by longhorndave.

At the southern end of South America, the last echoes of the Andes Mountains collapse into the sea. Tierra del Fuego, the Land of Fire, is renowned for its snowy peaks rising from turbulent waters above Antarctica. The Patagonian forests are complex and mystical with huge cypress trees and pudu-pudu, a deer that’s only 20 inches tall.

Tristan da Cunha

Photo by brunosan.

The volcanic rocks of Tristan da Cunha are the most remote scraps of land on Earth. The closest land is the island of Saint Helena, where Napoleon was exiled, and that’s still 1,500 miles away. Africa and South America are both 2,000 miles away.

A handful of flightless birds seen nowhere else in the world keep the 250 inhabitants of Tristan da Cunha company while stalwart British fishermen keep a wary eye on the volcano that destroyed their only settlement 70 years ago.

The landscape of the islands is austere. While there are no glaciers, the bare ground of Gough Island—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—seems surreal. What lies behind the high cliffs of the aptly named Inaccessible Island?

The Thousand Islands

Photo by Alberto OG.

In the Saint Lawrence River between New York State and Canada, the Thousand Islands have long been home to the rich and famous; in fact, many of the islands are privately owned. The curiosities inhabitants have left behind make the 1,800+ islands of the archipelago as strange as they are beautiful.

Heart Island supports an actual castle with towers, a yacht house, and a stained glass dome. The crumbling ruins of a Revolution-era fort adorn one island; Yale University’s secret society, Skull and Bones, owns another.

Other islands are so tiny that they can barely support a single house, though all of the islands must be above water 365 days a year and must support at least two trees to be considered part of this archipelago.

Svalbard

Photo by gogoolplex.

Svalbard, meaning “cold edge,” describes a group of islands found halfway between Norway and the North Pole. Though geographically large, the Svalbard has only 2,500 permanent inhabitants.

Local law requires residents and visitors alike to carry hunting rifles outside the settlements at all times—a last-resort defense against the 500 polar bears that roam the islands. Svalbard has no trees, but during the four months of constant daylight, Arctic wildflowers bloom everywhere.

Truly entrepreneurial spirits should know that citizens of countries signatory to the Svalbard Treaty may go to Svalbard without a visa and legally open their own coal mine.

The Artificial Islands

Photo by Pete the painter.

The Dubai harbor has more than doubled its size in five years; massive dredging has created very large and expensive artificial islands off the coast of the city-state whose exploits approach mythic proportions.

Between the three Palm Islands, the vast artificial Waterfront, and the massive archipelago called The World, Dubai’s new land will house over 3 million people when done. The islands already look like nothing else in the world.

The artificial islands are resorts, their beauty entirely artificial and entirely commercial. Whether it is a tremendous waste of resources, or greedy profiteering, or mere vain showmanship, Dubai has done the impossible and made land where there was none.

The Dodecanese

Photo by Michelos.

Many of the world’s most beautiful archipelagos gained their renown for pristine beaches, clear oceans, or stunning terrain. The famous Dodecanese, off the southwest coast of Turkey, have all of these in abundance, but they also bear the stunning marks of 3,000 years of advanced culture.

The islands have been ruled by the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Ottomans, Italians, and — finally — by the Greeks again, and all of these cultures have left their mark with spectacular ruins and structures.

The Colossus of Rhodes, a Wonder of the World, briefly stood guard near (or, more whimsically, over) the most famous island’s harbor. John of Patmos allegedly received the visions which became the Book of Revelation on Patmos. The Knights Hospitaller built a massive Crusader fortress on Rhodes, and churches abound.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Are you a lover of under-visited, isolated islands? Check out Matador contributing editor Tim Patterson’s picks for the Top 6 Most Enchanting Undeveloped Islands in the World. Or, read up on Japan’s often overlooked south, in Shima to Shima: Southern Islands of Japan.

The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Feature photo by G u i d o

Even with the current exchange rate with the Euro, you can still travel well in Southern France.

Cheap and Romantic Lodging Options

Forget staying in hotels, even the budget ones. Southern France is filled with self-catering urban apartments and rural bungalows. Renting one of these for a week or two cuts down lodging costs by 30% to 50% and honestly, they up the romance and authenticity of being there by 200%.

The beauty of renting a place is that you unpack once and spend the rest of your time exploring the area– eating, drinking, wandering, hiking– without stress. And that is how one arrives at the good life.

Some suggested sites to search for your temporary home away from home are:

Photo above by van Ort

Eating and Drinking

Having your self-catering accommodation offers the next big economic and romantic move: the ability to shop at the famous Provencal daily and weekly markets and sample the true terroir of the land: locally-grown food and wine.

Buy your fruits and vegetables, cheeses and sausages from the people who make them, as with the wine. Rent a bike, land your hands on one of the GR foot trail maps, and cycle and walk to villages and towns on market day.

If there is one thing people love to talk about, it’s their local food and wine, and where and from whom to buy it.

Weekly food markets occur in nearly every town and village. When you arrive at your home base, ask the tourist office for a list of nearby markets.

And always ask the locals. If there is one thing people love to talk about it’s their local food and wine, and where and from whom to buy it. Tourist offices are also well equipped to help you with details.

Flea Markets

Most flea markets occur on Sundays, though some are on Saturdays. Flea markets bring out the diverse color of society and are a great way to see the old fashions and aesthetics of a place.

Moreover, flea markets let you find a one-of-a-kind treasure to take home at a bargain price. Again, the local tourist office can tell you when and where these occur. Avignon and Montpellier have terrific flea markets as do other main towns.

Cultural Activities for Free (or Almost)

Music in the open air, galleries showing off the artistic genius of the area, hikes, sunset vistas from perfect perches– these are many of the free experiences you can find easily in Provence. Concerts are listed on church doors and at tourist offices. Gallery exhibits often have a sidewalk billboard announcing a little hidden plaza where there’s an exhibit.

The person from whom you rented your apartment can tell you the best place to watch the sunset in their town. (In Avignon, it is at the top of the Rocher des Doms gardens). Also ask them where the best trails are for hikes.

If museums are a must, take advantage of the all-city admission deals where you purchase a pass for a one or two-day access to all sites, rather than paying the higher individual admission fees.

Finally, rent a bike and/or buy a good walking map and use your own muscles to motor about. Slow Travel France is a great resource and offers terrific ideas and guidance for hikes in the Luberon.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Two Itineraries for Touring Provence

These two one-week itineraries capture the highlights of Provence. They complement each other well so if you have two full weeks, I’d give them both a go.


Week One: Arles, Nîmes, and the Camargue, or, The Roman, Romany, and Cowboy Route

  • Make Arles your home base—renting a studio in the heart of town, where you can enjoy strolls in the streets Van Gogh once walked.
  • Dine at the family-run places that advertise plat du jour, repas à prix fixe, or formules (set menus). These reasonably-priced set menus and specials tend to offer local, seasonal foods at the best prices.
  • Arles’ market days are Wednesday and Saturday.

  • Rent bikes to tour the Camargue, which you can do from Arles. Be sure to have plenty of sunscreen and mosquito repellent. July and August are the worst months for mosquitoes, but May, June, September and October (maybe even November) can be bad as well.
  • Take the train for a day trip to Nîmes. If you want to go further afield, make another day trip to Montpellier, to the west, or Marseilles, to the east.
  • Nîmes’ market day is Monday.

  • Take a local bus to Les Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer for a beach day, enjoying shellfish, chilled dry rosé wine, and this pilgrimage site where it is believed many sacred Marys, including Mary Magdalene, and other biblical figures, arrived by boat from the Holy Land around AD 40.

  • Les-Stes-Maries’ markets days are Monday and Friday.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt


Week Two: Avignon, Le Luberon, and the Pont du Gard, or, the Medieval Towns and Villages Route

  • Make Avignon your home base. A great hotel, if you decide on that option over the lodging suggestions above, is the Hotel Medieval, which rents studios with kitchenettes at weekly rates. It’s in the heart of medieval Avignon.
  • Allow 2-3 days just to soak up Avignon’s cultural, culinary, and social scenes. Enjoy the gallery exhibits, the church concerts, the food and flea markets, and the bistros scattered throughout the old Papal town.
  • Avignon’s market day is Monday. It also has the daily Les Halles covered food market that is a treat to shop.

  • Take a bus to Gordes and hike around this mountaintop town for the day: Take a linking bus or hire a taxi to the Abbaye de Senanque in a hidden valley nearby.
  • Take a day bus to Uzès and the Pont du Gard, preferably during Uzès market days of Wednesday or Saturday.

  • Take the train to Aix-en-Provence for the day and soak up the university atmosphere (which also means good eats at good prices).
  • Aix’s market is open every day on the Place Richelme.

  • Make a day trip to St-Rémy-de-Provence and enjoy a smaller-scale but quintessential Provencal town on the edge of the Alpilles limestone mountains.
  • St.-Rémy’s market day is Wednesday.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more tips to travel France on the cheap, check out How To Travel in France for Less Than $100 a Day, or our list of 10 Free Things To Do in Paris.

And for a more personal take on travel in France, check out these blogs from Matador community members: The Quiet of the Dordogne, by member Maija, or Is There Any Where I’d Rather Be?, by member terryodee.

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