9 Montana Backpacking Trips That Will Blow Your Mind

Photo: Jeff Handlin

From alpine tundra to lush valleys, hot springs to waterfalls, here is some of the most amazing terrain in the world and how you can get there.

There is something about waking up deep in the backcountry, having carried all of your gear in to camp near a quiet lake or alpine cirque with panoramic views of the surrounding peaks.

You can find dozens of places like this in the Big Sky State. These are nine of my favorites, the ones I consider the “ultra-classic” Montana experiences.

Montana has incredibly varied terrain, so I’ve included different regions as well as different levels of difficulty and distance.

East Rosebud Trail (aka The Beaten Path)

Location: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness

Arguably one of the best hiking experiences the Rocky Mountains has to offer in any state, the East Rosebud trail between Red Lodge and Cooke City has something for everyone, from wildlife that walks right up to you, to incredible fishing in lakes surrounded by craggy peaks, to trailside berries to munch on.

A strong hiker could make this 26 mile hike in one day, but if you want to get the most out of the trip, expect to spend three or more days out there. Though the trail gets its nickname from the mid-summer throngs of people, it’s far from crowded. Take any of dozens of side trails and you’ll find yourself in complete solitude.

Cottonwood Creek, Crazy Mountains

Location: Gallatin National Forest

Unlike many backpacking routes, this hike offers great mountain views right from the start. The trail follows Cottonwood Creek through prime moose habitat before climbing to excellent camping in the beautiful glacial tarn that embraces Cottonwood Lake.

Fishing is good at Cottonwood Lake, but another unnamed pond just below Cottonwood has water so clear you can watch the foot-long trout strike your line. Make sure you bring a stove to cook your catch as firewood is scarce.

Photo: Jeff Handlin

Boulder Pass

Location: Glacier National Park

If you’re looking for a variety of interesting geological features Boulder Pass won’t disappoint. The beginning of the hike is marked by ample huckleberries along alpine lakes, lovely expanses of prairie and spectacular views of Harris Glacier. Waterfalls line the mountainsides as you make your way up to Boulder Pass.

Here, the geology gets more interesting. The terrain resembles a moonscape with lava pools and other reminders of the area’s volcanic past. The trail goes through Hole-in-the-Wall campground, said to be the most remote campsite in Glacier Park, and along narrow cliff-side trails Glacier is famous for.

Bechler River Trail

Location: Yellowstone National Park

Bechler River Trail has everything people come to Yellowstone Park for: wildlife, waterfalls, hot springs, picturesque river canyons, and great fishing. It is also one of the least visited areas of the park. That said, don’t leave getting your backcountry permits until the last second.

Camping is limited to established campsites and there aren’t many. It is also one of the least strenuous trails in the Rockies, being flat or a slight decline for most of its substantial length. Its flat grade turns boggy in some areas, making it almost impassable until early August.

Photo: Jeff Handlin

Big Creek to Bear Creek Traverse

Location: Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

The first several miles of the Big Creek Trail wander along the bottom of a forested canyon and belie the rugged nature of the Bitterroot range. Stepping out of the trees near Big Lake, however, will introduce you to the jagged peaks that characterize most of the hike, twice crossing the spine of the Bitterroot divide between Montana and Idaho.

The stunning views and complete solitude make the considerable trek in well worth it.

Moose Lake Trail

Rehydrating. Photo: Mike Willis.

Location: Bob Marshall-Great Bear Wilderness

This trail, located just south of Glacier Park’s southern boundary, offers what’s best about the Bob Marshall Wilderness: options. Studying the map for a few minutes will reveal almost infinite possibilities from lake-to-lake angling excursions to alpine summit expeditions.

The trail to Moose Lake begins in dense woods but soon opens up into spectacular views north into Glacier and south/east into the Great Bear Wilderness.

From there, drop into Moose Lake, or change your mind and climb to Tranquil Basin, descend into Elk Lake or hook up with the Twenty-five Mile Creek Trail.

From there, choose between heading for the Middle Fork of the Flathead River or climbing Vinegar Mountain. You get the idea.

Hyalite Creek to Hyalite Peak

Location: Gallatin National Forest

This trail is short but sweet, and considered by many to be the premier hike of the Bozeman area. In the first five miles to Hyalite Lake, the trail passes eleven seperate waterfalls cascading from Hyalite Basin’s red rock bowl. At Apex Falls, just below Hyalite Lake, the trail branches toward Apex Crest and Hyalite Peak.

Hyalite Peak may not be the highest peak in the Gallatins, but it may be the most beautiful, looking down on one of the most unique drainages in Montana.

Crystal Lake-West Peak

Photo: Jeff Handlin

Location: Lewis and Clark National Forest

Starting at Crystal Lake, the trail leads in a long loop to the top of the Snowy Mountains, connecting with several side trails that lead to peak-bagging opportunities—notably Promontory and Grandview Peaks. At least two cave entrances along the trail will entice spelunkers to light up and explore.

Upper Potosi Hot Springs

Location: Tobacco Root Mountains

The Tobacco Root Mountains are often overlooked when it comes to backcountry adventures. Big mistake. The landscape is more arid than most in Montana, which makes for open, panoramic views. Hot springs on the trail bubble into primitive backcountry soaking pools. A just reward for the hike in.

More Information:

Gallatin National Forest Headquarters
Federal Building
P.O. Box 130
Bozeman, MT 59771
(406) 587 – 6701

Glacier National Park
Off Hwy. 2
P.O. Box 128
West Glacier, MT 59936
406-888-5441

Bob Marshall Wilderness hike

Lewis & Clark National Forest
Augusta Information Station
Augusta, MT 59410
Phone: (406) 562-3247

Custer National Forest
Beartooth District, Rt 2, Box 3420, Red Lodge, MT 59068
406/446-2103

Crystal Lake hike

Lewis & Clark National Forest, Judith Basin Ranger District
PO Box 869
Great Falls, Montana 59403
(406) 791-7700

Bechler River Trail

Yellowstone National Park
P.O. Box 168
Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190
phone: 307-344-7381
fax: 307-344-2005

Visit the backcountry planner on Yellowstone’s website — the backcountry office can be reached at 307-344-2160.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re looking for even more reasons to visit Montana, here are four more .

Melbourne: A surprise awaits you at every turn

30 Mar 2009 in Destinations by Carlo Alcos

Photo: ZeHawk

Whether you’re living in Melbourne or just visiting, you’re always one corner away from a pleasant surprise.

Europe Down Under–that’s how I feel about the Victorian capital. At one point it was the nation’s capital, but an irresolvable dispute with Sydney gave Canberra that distinction.

14 months ago, my wife and I settled into a flat in the quiet, leafy beach suburb of Elwood. It became our base for learning what it meant to be a Melburnian. We got day jobs; we patronized the local shops; we found our favourite café.

I was cycling home from work the other day, keenly observing life as it whizzed by, when I started reflecting on what makes Melbourne, well, Melbourne.

I silently concluded that I love this city; you will too, and here are a few reasons why:

Trams ‘n’ trains

Yes, the locals perpetually complain about the public transportation system. The fact is, they don’t know how good they have it. The city and surrounding areas are fully serviced by a combination of trains, trams and buses. Unlike Sydney where you might have to pay four separate fares to get to your destination, Melbourne has one ticket for all the services.

Photo: macinate

There’s something romantic and nostalgic about trams. Not many cities have a comprehensive network of them, and if you want a unique experience, book yourself onto the Colonial Tramcar Restaurant (pictured above).

The ‘no worries’ culture

For a big city, the residents are pretty laid back. Look around and you’ll see hundreds of cafes full of folks sipping their lattes. The easy attitude may best be felt on the banks of the Yarra River where people lazily stroll or sit at the river’s edge and ponder.

World class events

There are only four tennis grand slams and Melbourne is home to one of them–that’s enough in my books to give the city full props. For two hot weeks in January, the Australian Open at Melbourne Park is host to the game’s top players, and draws in hundreds of thousands of fans.

Photo: brettmarlow1

Like food and drink? Be here in March when the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival pulls in top chefs from around the world–it’s 17 days of gastronomic bliss.

Following on its heels, the city’s testosterone rises a few notches during the Australian Grand Prix. The usually serene Albert Park is transformed into a track for Formula 1 race cars whipping around at 200 km/h.

If you happen to be here on the second Tuesday in November, don’t miss the Melbourne Cup. Although it’s also known as “The Race That Stops a Nation“, Melbourne is the only place in Australia where race day is a statutory holiday.

The weather

Four seasons in one day. Terribly cliched, but terribly true. I learned fast that layering is key as the climate can change dramatically, several times, in a single day. It’s also the windiest city I’ve ever been to; perhaps a bad-hairday town, it’s paradise for kite and wind surfers.

Photo: Author

Australians reading this are right now saying, “what? how can you love the weather there?”, and I understand that. It’s not easy to love. But it’s part of Melbourne’s identity and, hence, now mine. And that’s when you start loving it.

Keeping it real

Melbourne has done a stellar job of keeping local entrepreneurs in business. While big box shops and franchises do exist, the amount of independently owned cafes, restaurants and boutiques is staggering, ensuring a new experience every single time you venture outside.

Photo: avlxyz

Environmental conscience

On my ride to work it’s heartening to see the amount of cyclists on the road and the plans to make the city more bike friendly. There’s also the Target 155 campaign — an appeal to residents to cut back water usage to 155 liters per day. Of course, that’s just good sense as the dams near record-lows.

Photo: Looking Glass

The state government is committed to sustainability, promoting ways to cut back on energy and plastic usage, and generally helping residents become good global citizens. At my work they’ve recently replaced the Nescafe with organic, fair-trade instant coffee.

If you’re bored, you’re not trying very hard

You don’t have to look hard or travel far for a bit of adventure. The Central Business District (CBD) is small and compact with a zillion hidden laneways and alleys, each hiding shops, cafes and even street art for you to discover.

Suburbs like Fitzroy, Prahran, St. Kilda, and Carlton (among others) teem with their own cultural variances and enough things to explore to keep you busy for days. Just last week my wife and I took a walk to the St. Kilda pier and spotted a penguin. There’s always a surprise.

Photo: reinn

Day and weekend trips outside Melbourne can provide brief respite from the city. There is hiking in the Dandenong ranges, surf beaches in Torquay, and one of the best stretches of coastline in the world, the Great Ocean Road (for hikers, check out my post on the Great Ocean Walk).

There is a lifetime of experiences in and around Melbourne. The time will come when I will stop calling it home, and I am certain that when it does, there will still be many things I haven’t done or seen. But this is what will keep me coming back.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Has Melbourne caught your eye? Feel free to ask our resident expert any questions you have about this wonderful city.

If you have any experiences yourself from Melbourne that you want to share, leave a comment below!

Words from Russia: A Couchsurfer’s Take on its Culture

29 Mar 2009 in Cultural Immersion by Carlo Alcos

Photos: author

You never know until you ask. A Russian couch surfer takes a couple of minutes to answer a question about his culture.

I first met Maxim at the train station in Petrozavodsk, Russia. My wife and I had contacted him through Hospitality Club only a couple of days earlier from St. Petersburg. Even though our train rolled in at 6:50 AM, there he was, greeting us with a big, warm Russian smile.

Petrozavodsk is 400 km north of St. Pete and was founded by Peter the Great in 1703 to manufacture weaponry (the city’s name means “Peter’s Factory”). In one of the suburbs, Martsialnye Vody, you can find the oldest spa in Russia.

Keen to show us his city, Maxim brought us home and fed us pelmeni (dumplings), then allowed us a brief rest before ushering us out the door. We walked down to the embankment, a boardwalk on the shores of the second largest European lake, Lake Onega.

While we walked around the old factory city, we talked about Russia — about its politics, its police, and its culture.

The One Question Interview

What do you feel is the most important aspect of Russian culture?

“Hmm…I think it’s sincerity and honesty that has been berhymed by our poets. In this country, poets, writers and musicians have always been the ‘conscience of the people’. It’s very important to perceive Russia and its people through getting acquainted with the Russian literature and poetry.”

Maxim is known as “svini4″ at HospitalityClub and can also be found lounging around CouchSurfing.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Someone else who’s fired up on Russian lit is Matador community member and contributor Robyn Johnson, not to mention laser tag!

Thinking of doing some couch surfing yourself? Make sure to read Turner Wright’s tips on setting up a killer profile. Or maybe you’re already addicted and looking for the camaraderie of a fellow serial couch surfer.

Boating Big Sky: Montana’s Classic River Trips

Feature photo and photo above by Brian French.

From flatwater to class V, Montana has incredible rivers and stoked communities of paddlers. Local boater Brian French leads us down some of the classic Big Sky runs.

As the last snowstorms leave their mark on the western Montana landscape, thoughts of rivers and boating begin to dominate my mind. Soon the enormous accumulation of snow nestled in the high country will find its way to area creeks and rivers, creating the opportunity for something truly remarkable – exploring the northern Rocky Mountains by boat.

I have been exploring the waters of western Montana for seven years now. I typically paddle well over 100 days in any given year and I try to commit to exploring at least a few new rivers or creeks every season.

I am a kayaker at heart, so I tend to prefer stretches that are a little more difficult in terms of whitewater. There is plenty of difficult water in Montana and plenty of opportunities for first descents. There are also plenty of opportunities for rafters, canoeists, touring kayakers, tubers, and pretty much all manner of folks who enjoy days on the water.

Whether you are looking for a full-on Class V nightmare with arduous portages or a crystal-clear, slow moving mountain stream with fishing that can only be described as “blue ribbon,” Montana has something for everyone.

Following are brief accounts of some of my favorite river trips in the state of Montana. I have included very basic logistics for planning trips on these stretches. For more detailed information on boating opportunities in Montana and the surrounding area, visit my blog, Montana eddy hop.

Have fun out there and remember: safety first!

Middle Fork of the Flathead River, Montana (Wilderness Section)


Photo by Brian French.

Originating in the heart of the Great Bear Wilderness, the Upper Middle Fork flows north through one of the most pristine canyons around and then forms the southern boundary of Glacier National Park.

Needless to say, the scenery on this river is unimaginable, and the water is perhaps the most crystalline blue water in the country. There is also great whitewater on this stretch, and difficulties vary dramatically with flows.

In order to run this stretch, you have to get yourself to Schaffer Meadows, either by plane, backpacking or horse packing. I highly recommend taking the flight from Kalispell with Red Eagle Aviation – although somewhat costly (about $350 per plane, enough for about two people plus gear), the folks who fly you in are super friendly and the flight is out of this world.

The flight to Middle Fork of the Flathead. Photo by Brian French.

You fly over the Flathead Valley, through a notch in the mountain crest, and then through the middle of the Great Bear Wilderness, looking south into the Bob Marshall Wilderness and north into Glacier.

When combined, these wilderness areas comprise the second largest roadless area in the lower 48 – take the flight, it’s worth every penny.

If you haven’t yet made this journey, you should really find a way to do so – the flight into Schaffer and float out on the Middle Fork is an ultra-classic Montana experience.

There’s no other feeling in the world like a multi-day float trip. Middle Fork of the Flathead. Photo by Brian French.

M.F. Flathead logistics: Class IV (IV- at low flows – below 6000 cfs at West Glacier, but solid IV at all others).

The water never really stops moving on this stretch, making it really fun and continuous. Rafters in your crew need to be pretty experienced as the upper part of the stretch can be very tight and technical.

The Spruce Park series contains the best and most difficult whitewater, and is towards the end of the trip. The put in is Schaffer Meadows, where the river is but a small mountain stream, and the standard takeout is Bear Creek access east of Essex on U.S. Highway 2.

You can also keep paddling past Bear Creek and take out at Essex in order to pass the Goat Lick – a popular gathering area for mountain goats.

Blackfoot River, Montana

Canoeing the Blackfoot. Photo by Brian French.

The Blackfoot River was the first stretch of water I really got to know in Montana. Made famous by Norman Maclean’s A River Runs Through It, this river is in Missoula’s back yard and is a wonderful place to spend a lazy day on the river.

I personally prefer to canoe the Blackfoot. It has a great, 18-mile Class II stretch of water that is perfectly suited for canoeing. Rafters, kayakers, and even tubers in the summer enjoy this stretch as well.

Just like the majority of other large rivers in Montana, there are numerous potential stretches to run on the Blackfoot, and the majority of the water is Class II or lower.

The fishing on the Blackfoot is outstanding, and I have encountered more wildlife on the Blackfoot than on any river anywhere. Bear, elk, mule and whitetail deer, moose, mountain lion, bald and golden eagle, numerous species of waterfowl, river otter, and countless other critters call the Blackfoot corridor home. Having this river so close is one of my favorite things about living in Missoula.

Blackfoot logistics: Class II (III- at high flows).

Multiple stretches are possible, but the standard put in is located at Roundup off Highway 200 northeast of Missoula. The take out is at Johnsrud Park, or you can easily take out at the Ledge just upstream to avoid the Johnsrud mayhem (take 200 towards Great Falls from Bonner east of Missoula, you can’t miss the Blackfoot corridor).

Roundup to Johnsrud is about 18 miles, or you can easily put in at the Whitaker Bridge to cut the distance in half and access most good whitewater. This river is well worth exploring.

Montana’s Northwest Corner Classic Duo: Kootenai River and Yaak River


Kootenai Falls. Photo by Brian French.

The northwest corner of Montana contains one of the most unique ecosystems and incredible watersheds in the state. The Yaak River corridor is a mini-rainforest that contains a remote canyon with one of the best stretches of whitewater around that rafters and kayakers both enjoy.

The Yaak flows into the Kootenai River, which is a beautiful large volume river that is slow-moving and mellow in all places but Kootenai Falls, an amazing canyon that contains arguably the rowdiest big water in the state of Montana.

With simple, roadside logistics and a wilderness feel, the Yaak River winds its way down a canyon filled with old-growth western cedars and lichen-covered rock formations. The water is continuous, fun Class III/IV with a couple solid Class IV rapids thrown in the mix.

This is a classic Montana adventure that is always worth the drive. You are almost guaranteed to have this stretch to yourself, and there is excellent camping at Yaak Falls – an impressive waterfall that is the put-in for the run.

Stomping at Kootenai Falls. Photo by Brian French.

The Kootenai Falls section of the Kootenai River is less than 30 minutes from the Yaak and is a stomping stretch of Class IV+ big-water that is basically a playboater’s pipedream.

Beginning with a very straightforward 18-foot waterfall, the Kootenai drops more than 100 vertical feet in the next mile, which is a gradient more common of low volume creeks than rivers with over 15,000 cubic feet per second of volume.

Superwave. Photo by Brian French.

This stretch has enormous waves and holes. Right after the falls is Superwave, probably the rowdiest wave in Montana that is truly huge and very intimidating. As is said in the Montana Surf guidebook, the Kootenai River is as close to the Zambezi as you’re going to get in Montana, and is an incredible boating experience.

Yaak River Logistics: Class IV-V.

To find the put-in, look for Yaak River Road west of the town of Troy on U.S. Highway 2. Follow this road up to Yaak Falls campground and put-in at the base of the Falls (you can run the Falls at lower flows, but you better stick your line or you’re slamming directly into a rock wall).

There is a parking area at the Highway 2 bridge over the Yaak, right above the confluence with the Kootenai.

Kootenai River Logistics: Class IV+ (big, pushy water).

Located on U.S. Highway 2 just east of the town of Troy. There is a nice rest area and trail to the river at Kootenai Falls (clearly marked), or paddlers may want to find the road that drops in about a half-mile to the east of the rest area that follows the tracks.

If you park here, it’s a much shorter walk to the river and you can put-in and take about three paddle strokes before getting launched over the Falls…good way to lively up yourself!

Once a paddler you can never look at water the same; you’re always scouting. Photo by Brian French.

Yellowstone River, Montana

The Yellowstone River originates in Yellowstone National Park and is America’s longest free-flowing river. The Yellowstone watershed contains runoff from the Beartooth Mountain Range, which contains Granite Peak, Montana’s highest point at over 12,000 feet.

The Yellowstone River flows through some of the most spectacular scenery in Big Sky country, and has some of the best fishing in the state as well.

From the Paradise Valley north of Gardiner to the confluence with the Missouri River, the Yellowstone has countless stretches of enjoyable water that draw rafters, drift-boaters, kayakers, and canoeists.


Putting on or taking out, a good river trip = joy. Photo by Brian French.

It is hard to imagine a more beautiful river than the Yellowstone – this is the old favorite of many water enthusiasts in the state and for good reason. It is hard to focus on anything but peace and serenity when floating past the cottonwoods and amongst the white pelicans of the Yellowstone River.

Yellowstone River logistics: Countless stretches are possible on this river.

Starting at Gardiner north of Yellowstone Park, the upper Yellowstone generally has more difficult whitewater than the lower reaches. There are two world-class canyons within Yellowstone Park, the Grand Canyon and the Black Canyon, that are fabled to be incredible runs and are unfortunately illegal because of Park Service policies prohibiting paddling in Yellowstone Park.

The middle and lower Yellowstone reaches, from around Livingston down, contain very scenic, mellow stretches with great fishing and amazing playboating features at higher flows. Rafters and drift boaters from all over the country flock to the Yellowstone during the warm months of the year.

Community Connection

Interested in learning more about Montana? Check in with our local Montana experts, including Montana Expert N. Christine Olson, who has put together an Angler’s Guide to Spring Fly Fishing in Montana.

Always been interested in learning how to paddle but never tried? Check out our Step by Step Guide to Getting into Whitewater Paddling. Learn how there is a whole new world out there when you see it from the river.

Easy Does It: Quandary Peak

Photos: author

Colorado’s Quandary Peak is an ideal first ‘14er’ for hikers and travelers.

At 14,265 feet, Quandary is the highest peak in the Tenmile Range. There’s straightforward, all-season access via Highway 9, with the trail head just eight miles south of cushy Breckenridge.

Quandary’s wide, mild East Ridge slopes make for an excellent introduction to hiking above treeline in the summer and backcountry skiing when the snow falls.

Consequently, you’ll never have Quandary Peak to yourself. The weekday I climbed, I set out at a laughable 11:00 AM and passed other hikers—though not frequently, fairly consistently—even on the way down.

But regardless of whether reading this makes you want to book it to Breck or jot a mental note to stay clear, let me assure you the views from the top can be enjoyed by visitors of all levels of expertise.

A word of warning: approaching the summit from directions other than east yields technical slopes. These are prone to avalanches in winter and can be dangerous any time of year. Don’t underestimate.

Community Connection

Planning to hit up Quandary while the snow’s still on the ground? Before you go, brush up on our First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding and 8 Pieces of Gear to Keep You Warm and Safe in the Backcountry.

4 More Reasons to Visit Montana NOW

24 Mar 2009 in Best Trips, Destinations by Teresa Ponikvar

Feature photo courtesy of Travel Montana. Photo above by golampo.

Montana is more than just a place to enjoy the great outdoors, and now is the best time to experience it.

We all know Montana’s skiing, paddling, and backpacking are fantastic—but why else should you visit the Big Sky State now?

1. To get a peek at the future.

Haven’t used the word “foodshed” in causal conversation yet? You will one day soon. Head to Montana to check out a thriving local food movement.

You can plan a summer visit and chat with growers at farmers’ markets all over the state, and, of course, sample the fruits of their labors—everything from peaches to bison burgers.

Farmer’s market in Missoula. Photo by JustinKnabb

.

Visit the Montana Homegrown site to learn about farmers who are going beyond organic to consider the relationships of food to culture, agriculture to wilderness, growers to consumers—and to schedule farm tours.

Planning a winter trip? Sample local, in-season produce on top of a gourmet wood-fired pizza at Biga Pizza in Missoula—and wash it down with a local wine or microbrew (Moose Drool, anyone?). Red Lodge and Big Sky Breweries offer free tours—just contact them in advance.

Photo by Bitteroot.

2. To put the world in perspective.

There’s nothing like pondering geologic time for making your worries seem insignificant. Fifteen thousand years ago, the valleys of Western Montana flooded repeatedly into a huge, glacier-dammed lake.

When the ice dams failed, the water swept across western Montana, Oregon, and Washington—all the way to the Pacific—and the evidence of these catastrophic floods is still visible today.

Photo by Bitteroot.

Ancient lake shores are still etched into the mountains that ring the city of Missoula—a striking sight if you know what you’re looking at. Farther north, on the Flathead reservation, take a look at Rainbow Lake, formed when gushing flood waters plucked chunks out of the bedrock and carried them away. Visit the Montana Natural History Center or pick up a copy of David Alt’s fun and informative book, Glacial Lake Missoula and Its Humongous Floods, and keep your eyes open for more flood landmarks.

3. To learn history.

Memorial sculpture at little Bighorn Battlefield Nat’l Monument. Photo by virago.

In Eastern Montana, the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument provides a haunting look at a period in American history that has continuing repercussions in the present. From June through August, get the story of the battle from lively ranger talks—and then take a van tour with Crow guides from the reservation’s community college for a different perspective.

Visit the park in late June for the battle reenactments—one is put on by the National Park Service, the other by a local Crow family. Be sure to stop into a local bar the night before the “battle” to observe in-uniform Cavalry soldiers from all over the world getting into character.

Photo by michael gallacher.

4. To get some culture.

For the stout of heart (and stomach), there’s the Testicle Festival in Clinton, Montana, from July 29 through August 2—a bawdy celebration of Rocky Mountain Oyster season. Have a ball gulping down the protein-rich signature dish, observing the Wet T-Shirt Contest and the Hairy Chest Contest, and watching Hell’s Angels mingle with wide-eyed college freshmen from the nearby University of Montana.

Also, if you’ve never been to a rodeo, Montana is the place for you see how long 8 seconds can last.

Photo courtesy of Travel Montana.

If your tastes run more to the literary, visit Missoula in late October for the Festival of the Book, now in its tenth straight year. Spend three days visiting with and listening to renowned authors from all over the United States and all over the literary map.

Book lovers and aspiring writers will be sprinting frantically all over town, trying to squeeze in just one more panel or reading.

Also in late October in Missoula, observe a wonderfully weird meshing of Montanan and Mexican culture at the Day of the Dead Parade—local artists, dancers, and children put on a colorful and macabre show, and the dancing and reveling continue into the night.

In the bleak midwinter months after a day on the slopes, look for warming music, food, art, and workshops in everything from animal tracking to African dance, in cities from Whitefish to Hardin.

In the summer, rest those paddle-sore arms at any number of beer-and music-drenched outdoor events. Grab a copy of the local independent paper, or just ask the nearest fly fisherman, barista, or burrito-scarfing student—and then head out to get inspired by Montana’s energetic and eclectic cultural scene.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Headed to Big Sky Country? Be sure to touch base with one of Matador’s Montana experts to get some insider information that will help you plan your trip.

5 Choice Spots to Enjoy Spring Blooms

22 Mar 2009 in Best Trips, Destinations, Family, Nature by Hal Amen

Photo: *Solar ikon*

Spring has come to the northern hemisphere. Here are some of the best places to enjoy the blossoms.
Tokyo, Japan

Spring is practically defined by the cherry blossom. Many cities around the globe pride themselves on the beauty of their sakura trees—D.C., Vancouver, and Seoul all hold dedicated festivals—but why not head to the source?

Petals drift down in surreal snowfalls that cover the wide, black paths of Tokyo’s Imperial Palace complex. From here, you can walk along a carpet of softest pink to Yasukuni Shrine, where the combination of spiritual tranquility and seasonal beauty invites visitors to linger longer than they planned.

Of course, the capital is one among hundreds of venues for sakura sightseeing in Japan. The imperial charm of Kyoto’s parks and shrines provide an excellent backdrop for the blossoms, while Nagoya, Kamakura, and Osaka are also popular destinations.

When the flowers appear depends on the latitude, climate, and recent weather of each location. As of now, recommended 2009 viewing times for Tokyo and Kyoto run from the end of March through the first week in April.

Schedules for these and other regions can be found here.

Photo: Zest-pk

Lisse, Holland

The Dutch tulip is another spring specimen of world-class renown.

Amsterdam’s floating flower market of Bloemenmarkt is good for a splash of fragrance and color in any season, and flower history buffs can tour the city’s tulip museum.

But it’s Lisse, a town 40 kilometers southwest of Amsterdam and well-served by public transport, that’s home to the world’s largest flower garden, the Keukenhof.

Open from March 19 to May 21, 2009, the vast grounds of the Keukenhof feature over 7 million flower bulbs, many of them tulips. In addition, boat tours, workshops, and bicycle rentals are available, ensuring an overdose of springtime fun.

The Lake District, England

Photo: ginnerobot

A cradle of bucolic scenery year round, England’s Lake District reveals something special each spring, when daffodils erupt across the hills and dales.

This is where Wordsworth “wandered lonely as a cloud.” If you’re seeking poetic inspiration, or just a pleasant stroll through the golden daffodils, fit Lake District National Park into your itinerary.

The town of Ambleside hosts its Daffodil and Spring Flower Show this March 28 and 29, but the blooms will be going off throughout April as well.

Chappell Hill, TX, USA

Photo: robholland

There’s a species of lupine so beloved by Texans that they named it their state flower back in 1901. Each spring, the bluebonnet carpets the plains and Hill Country of eastern and central Texas.

These blossoms are at their peak in April, and the Chappell Hill Bluebonnet Festival is held mid-month accordingly. Ask the locals and they’ll be happy to tell you this is the only “official” bluebonnet festival in Texas.

Yet, it’s just as easy to spot blue-hued meadows along state highways, thanks to a wildflower seeding project prompted by former First Lady, Lady Bird Johnson.

If the flowers on their own aren’t enough for you, consider an outing along the Texas Bluebonnet Wine Trail. This network of East Texas roads traverses prime bluebonnet country while connecting you to more than half a dozen local wineries.

Photo: g-hat

Perth, Australia

Travel budgets are tight these days. If you simply can’t manage a trip to watch the buds bloom this spring, don’t despair. Keep in mind—one hemisphere’s summer is another’s winter.

When September rolls around, head to Western Australia for a second-chance spring.

Perth is the place to be, where the annual Kings Park Festival lasts all month. Live music, art installations, and cultural performances add to the attraction of the flowers blooming throughout the park and botanical gardens.

For the flower obsessed (there’s one in every group), the tourism board of Western Australia suggests a three-day itinerary heading north out of Perth. Thousands of species bloom in this region of the country, making it the ideal destination for enjoying spring Down Under.

Community Connection

Do you suffer a touch of flora-mania? What are your favorite places to take in spring blooms? Let us know in the comments.

Sakura got a mention in our 8 Cities That Burn Through Your Money, while Amsterdam’s Bloemenmarkt landed among the Top 10 Free Things to Do in Europe. Check out what else made these lists!

Beyond Paris: 5 Other Places to Experience La Belle France

Photo by feuilllu

Feature photo by meanest indian

Looking to branch out from la vie Parisienne? Here is a list of my favorite places to take a French vacation sans the Eiffel Tower.
1. The Loire Valley

Kings, queens, and the bourgeoisie alike spent generations snatching up real estate in this prime, perfect-for-building-castles location. As a result, the Loire Valley is home to some of the most iconic French images outside of Paris.

Photo by FlickrDelusion

Here, you can visit Catherine de Medici’s graceful home at Chenonceau, Francois I’s ostentatious hunting lodge at Chambord, and even the grave of Leonardo da Vinci at Amboise.

Some of the chateaux have been converted into modern-day hotels and restaurants guaranteed to bring out your inner aristocrat.

Accessible from Paris as a day trip (but with plenty to see and do during an extended stay), the Loire Valley is a great option for travelers wanting to break up their Parisian stay with a non-Parisian adventure.

2. Alsace

Alsace now belongs to the French, but the local flavor is heavily German.

France and Germany spent centuries disputing ownership of this eastern region, with France only definitively laying claim to the land in 1945.

After exploring the countryside, be sure to visit Strasbourg, which is not only France’s sixth most populous city, but also home to a world-famous Christmas market, an impressive Gothic cathedral, and numerous European institutions.

Don’t miss the area known as La Petite France and its winding streets, flowing canals, and 16th- and 17th-century homes. For those hoping to practice their auf wiedersehens as well as their au revoirs, Strasbourg’s German Quarter should do the trick.

Photo by marcella_bona

3. Burgundy

Burgundy, or Bourgogne in French, is known as the gastronomic capital of France; the only way to visit this center-east region is on an empty stomach.

Specialties include adventurous escargot, hearty boeuf bourguignon, and the classic coq au vin.

Prefer a liquid diet? Burgundy’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are some of the finest in the world.

Bypass the larger cities of Dijon and Auxerre for villages such as Beaune and Aloxe-Corton. As you sip the locally produced Meursault, dine on regional cuisine, and stroll the vine-laden hillsides, you’ll finally know what it’s like to live la belle vie.

Photo by Éole

4. Champagne

If those Burgundy wines sit well with you, you’ll also want to head north to Champagne. The bottles here are just as prized, only this time they come with bubbles.

Small, non-exporting producers are everywhere, but if you want to sip like a jet-setter, check out the cities of Épernay or Reims, where you’ll find all the big-name Champagne houses: Moët et Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Taittinger, to name a few.

Take a tour of their naturally chilled caves (Taittinger’s is the best) and they’ll serve you a glass when the tour’s done.

History buffs will also enjoy a visit to Notre-Dame de Reims. After centuries of serving as the coronation site of French kings, this inspiring cathedral barely escaped total destruction during the two World Wars.

5. Provence

Between the seemingly endless clouds and rain, the rushed pace of life, and the Parisian penchant for wearing all black, the City of Lights can sometimes feel like anything but.

Provence offers an escape from the capital’s melancholic mood. Color reigns supreme in this mythical southern locale, as bright yellow buildings and fields of lavender radiate in the sunshine.

Stay in tranquil Arles, whose history dates back to the Greeks and whose Roman arena is still in use today.

After seeking out the areas of town that inspired paintings by Van Gogh, rent a car to explore the surrounding countryside and authentic Provençal villages.

Feel the warm breeze on your face as you wander a grove of olive trees, spot wild horses and pink flamingos in the Camargue, or sip the local liqueur, Pastis, on a sun-baked terrace. Now, who needs Paris when they’ve got all that?

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more ideas on getting beyond Paris, check out How to Travel in France for Less Than $100 a Day and Castles, Wine, and History on the Cathar Trail.

Koreans in…Mexico City?

Photo: avlxyz

Every day, everywhere, cultures collide in combinations that go unnoticed. Stumbling on the results can be one of travel’s greatest rewards.

The close, dark store smells of garlic, chilies, maybe a little ginger. Racks overflow with instant noodle cups and bags of shrimp chips. In my hands a six-pack of kimchi ramen and a tray of freshly made tteok (Korean glutinous rice cakes).

I walk up to the counter, fumble in my pocket, and pluck out a wad of worn peso bills, still mesmerized by my discovery of this genuine, expansive Korean community lodged in the center of Mexico City’s tourist district—the Zona Rosa.

Koreans first came to Mexico in the early 1900s, fleeing the Japanese occupation of their homeland. Many found tough, low-paying work on farms in the country’s northern regions, where pockets of Mexicanized Korean communities still exist.

But Mexico City’s Koreans are more recently arrived, the result of South Korea’s economic boom of the ‘60s and ‘70s. In the D.F., traditions intertwine.

You’re almost as likely to find your mouth watering at the scent of bulgogi as tacos al pastor in the Zona Rosa.

While no immediately observable synthesis has taken place (you can’t get kimchi tacos here like those served up by Los Angeles’ Kogi truck), strolling down Calle Florencia between Reforma and Chapultepec makes for a culturally disorienting experience.

Community Connection

For more on Mexico City’s Korean community, check out the Matador Travel blog “Los Coreanos.” Curious what else you don’t know about the largest metropolis in the world? Give our “Green Guide to Mexico City” a read.

A Foodie Primer for Mexico: 10 Foods to Try

20 Mar 2009 in Food by Sarah Menkedick

Photo: Rob West

Forget the murky blobs of refried beans, gooey overcooked cheeses, packaged flour tortillas, dull strips of chicken and flavorless tomatoes that pass for Mexican food in so many places. Here are 10 things you’ve gotta try to get a real taste.
1. Tacos

Photo: Alaskan Dude

You may think you know the taco. You’ve met it in Chicago or even Beijing. But you do not know the taco until you are standing on the corner of a sun-flooded street at 7 AM, elbow to elbow with hungry Mexicans on their way to work, watching the taquero carve meat off the spit, spoon it into warm corn tortillas, fold said tortillas into small moons, and repeat the process, fluently, rapidly.

You do not know the taco until you dress it with delicate thin guacamole, cilantro, and perhaps a dabbling of red chili sauce, and it fills your mouth with the flavors of corn, meat, and spice. Until you use your fingers to pick up the little biteful of filling that fell out onto the Styrofoam plate. Then you know the taco.

2. Chilaquiles

Chilaquiles are yet another Mexican food invented by an enterprising woman faced with a pile of stale tortillas. Nowadays, they’ve moved from creative leftovers to the star of the breakfast show. They should come sizzling, the green or red sauce bubbling in a clay pot, the white cheese popping with freshness.

There should be raw sliced onions, epazote (a Mexican herb used in many dishes), white cheese, and sour cream to create that blend of tangy and creamy that defines this dish.

You can order red chilaquiles, made with a blend of tomatoes and dark purple and red chiles, or green chilaquiles, made with the sharp, seedy goodness of tomatillos. If you’re in Oaxaca, you have to head to the Merced market for the best chilaquiles in Mexico.

3. Tortillas Fresh Off the Comal

Photo: Francisco Chaves

The comal is a round, clay Mexican grill, upon which señoras heat fresh hand-pressed tortillas. Watch and you’ll see the tortillas puff up a little, at which point the señoras will flip them briskly. When they’ve firmed and cooked through, they’re filled or topped to make quesadillas, empanadas, or memelas.

Quesadillas and empanadas are tortillas filled with mushrooms, squash flowers, chile-rubbed pork, or huitlacoche. They’re delicious, but in my opinion the way to really experience the simply joy of this tortilla is to try a memela. A warm tortilla, a thin layer of black beans, and queso fresco. Nada mas.

4. Molé

Photo: Moody 75

“You first need to get the peanuts, you get the salt and the bread, you grind and you fry the chiles, you boil the chocolate…get cinnamon and bananas, get cloves and oregano, get thyme and the blackest pepper, you grind it in México!”

Look no further than Mexico’s beloved Lila Downs for a celebration of molé. An indigenous specialty, it is used to celebrate weddings, funerals, birthdays, Sunday afternoons, and the richness of life. You can’t leave Mexico without a little molé in your blood.

5. Fruta con chile

Photo: Michale

Yes, I know it’s quite simple. Take a mango, sprinkle some chili powder and sauce on it, douse it in lime, and you’re done. But the flavor combo is so quintessentially Mexican, and so ubiquitous, that you can’t pass it up. Literally—there are stands hawking mangos, jicamas, cucumbers, and whatever else is in season con chile on just about every street corner.

You’ve got the vibrant sweetness of the fruit with the slightly dangerous spark of the chile—a bite of Mexico, in a word.

6. Micheladas and Sueros

Photo: Sette

As the caipirhina is to Brazil and the mojito is to Cuba, so micheladas and sueros are to Mexico. The michelada is a squint-and-tear-inducing combo of chile sauces mixed with beer. If you can drink it and not wince, you’re meant to stick around Mexico for a while. A suero is beer with salted lime juice.

Drink either down with a Dos Equis, Indio, Corona, or Victoria.

7. Tamales

Photo: phil_g

“Taaaaaammaaaaallllleeeeeeeeeess!!” goes the refrain, an ear-splitting ululation heard blocks away. Or sometimes, when a man pedaling a tamale cart passes, “Tamales, tamales, tamales, tamales,” the hypnotic mechanical repetition drawing people from their houses like zombies.

The tamal, swaddled in banana leaves or cornhusks, tasting of moist maize and meat and slow-cooked sauce, is the heart of all things Mexican.

Opening it is like opening an intimate secret, a gift. Inside you’ll find soft grainy maize, and nestled within it (depending on the type of tamal you’ve chosen) chicken with black, yellow or green mole, strips of poblano or jalapeno pepper, thick bean paste, or a simple sprinkling of herbs.

8. Elotes

Photo: Sarah Menkedick

At around 5 PM, the elote carts roll into the streets. Steam bellows from the huge metal pots, in which thick hominy is cooking in herbed juices. Order either an elote, which is corn on the cob smothered with mayonnaise, fresh white cheese, chile powder, and lime, or an esquite, which is corn in a cup with the same concoction.

9. Pozole

In my experience, all cultures have their traditional soups. In France, it’s French onion thick with cheese and bubbling, in China it’s a combination of medicinal herbs and fruits, in Russia it’s borscht…and in Mexico, it’s pozole. A steaming bowl of pozole should clear out the sinuses and give you a tangy, lime-infused jolt of energy.

You can order a variety of broths, all of which should come with chewy hominy, crunchy radishes, shaved cabbage, and plenty of lime to squeeze over the top.

10. Barbacoa

Want to find the roots of Texas BBQ? Head to one of Mexico’s markets and order up a plate of barbacoa. Traditionally a dish reserved for village festivals and weddings, barbacoa is made by roasting a whole sheep or lamb in a pit dug in the ground.

The meat slow-cooks for days underneath the cover of maguey leaves. No marinades or sauces are used. When the meat is tender and pulling apart, it’s taken out of the pit and served with a variety of sauces, guacamole, and lime.

So forget your experiences with Mexican food up until now and remember—you can’t leave Mexico until you’ve wept from the power of the chile, and held a warm tortilla in your hand.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Can’t make it to Mexico just yet? Then test drive some of the Best Taquerias in San Francisco, instead.

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