Photo above: earcos, Feature photo: moriza

Europe

Amsterdam

The “bicycling capital of Europe” tops many lists—including this one, it seems—as the most bike friendly city anywhere. Safe and extensive route networks, serious governmental promotion, and a bike culture that transcends class boundaries are all reasons why 40% of the city’s traffic moves on two wheels.

Barcelona

Barcelona’s Bicing program, one of many mass bike rental systems that have popped up recently in Europe and beyond, debuted two years ago, and the Catalan capital hasn’t looked back. An annual Bike Week is held in late May to spread the word.

Berlin

Photo: tandemracer

Commuting Berliners are never lonely—400,000 of them pedal to work each day. City leaders still aren’t satisfied with this figure, and millions of euros have been allocated to encourage more cyclists to take to the streets. There’s even a website that helps you map out bike-specific routes.

Copenhagen

In the Danish capital, nearly a third of the workforce gets to the office by bike. By some estimates, that’s more than 1 million kilometers pedaled every day!

For a truly alternative urban experience, check out Christiania, a neighborhood of 850 that, in addition to setting up a semi-independent government and decriminalizing trade in cannabis, has banned cars.

Paris

Paris gets a nod here for its creation of Vélib’, the world’s largest public bicycle rental program. Twenty thousand stylish three-speeds are distributed among 1,450 rental stations throughout the city, available to subscribers at variable rates (rides under 30 minutes are free).

North America

Boulder

Denver’s little hippy bro to the north dedicates 15% of its transportation budget to improving and promoting bicycle travel. Nearly every major roadway has a designated cycling area, and they’ve even instituted a pilot program to get kids biking to school. This guy has created a very cool color-coded route map, complete with local attractions.

Chicago

Photo: mugley

Mayor Richard Daley is set on turning Chicago into “the most bicycle-friendly city in the United States.” It doesn’t appear to be all talk, either, as more bike lanes pop up all the time, and last year the city passed laws to protect cyclists’ safety.

All you could ever want to know about Chicago’s bicycle initiatives—and much more—can be found here.

Davis

It’s said that there are more bikes than cars in this small, northern California city of 62,000. Not only that, but its official motto is “Most bicycle friendly town in the world.” Davis has no school buses—kids are encouraged to ride to class instead. The entire month of May is dedicated to Cyclebration…and the list goes on.

Ottawa

The States may have its bright spots, but the fact remains that Canada’s capital claims the highest percentage of bike commuters on the continent. Its 170 km worth of paths make it easy to get from point A to B, though two-wheeled traffic is sure to drop between December and March. Further info is available here.

Photo: MaximeF

Portland

You were worried there for a second, weren’t you? No, I haven’t forgotten what most people consider the bike capital of the U.S. The only thing as impressive as Portland’s bicycle infrastructure (including a 260-mile network) and commuter stats (almost 10%, the highest in the country) is the camaraderie of its cyclist community.

San Francisco

The founding city of the Critical Mass bicycle demonstration can’t be overlooked. Over the past decade, bicycle collisions have declined while the number of bike commuters has nearly doubled.

Photo: Charles Haynes

Add San Francisco’s constant activities like removing car parking to make room for bike parking, distributing Watch for Bikes stickers (to be placed on driver’s side rearview mirrors), and its pending Bike Share program and you get one of the world’s bike-friendliest cities.

Elsewhere

Photo: Dan Zen

Beijing

Debatable? Sure. But the city with probably the most bicycles of any in the world can’t be considered bike unfriendly, can it?

The sheer number of cyclists necessitates some pretty sophisticated infrastructure for the travel, storage, and repair of two-wheeled vehicles.

Cape Town

African cities might not be the first you think of for bike friendliness, but Cape Town is doing its best to change that.

The South African capital is in the process of beefing up its pedal-power credentials with the creation of cycling lanes, dedicated bike parking, and public commuter showers.

Bogotá

Bogotá’s transportation initiatives have been a model for change throughout Latin America, and its treatment of bicycles is no exception. Miles of safe, segregated bike paths and Sunday Ciclovía events (where main throughways are closed to cars) make Colombian cyclists very happy.

Perth

With more than 700 km of bike routes and plenty to see along them, Australia’s fourth largest city is where it’s at for Down Under saddle jockeys. For maps, recommended rides, and other cycling goodies, this site has what you need.

Community Connection:

If you’re looking for some inspiration to make the switch to bike commuting, check out this article.

In the interest of geographical diversity, this list includes picks from across the globe. Did we get some wrong? Leave any out? Let us know in the comments!

And the bigger questions… What is it that makes a place “bike friendly” anyway, and how can you encourage your city, town, or village to fall in line?

Photo: saltyseadog

You can, of course, take the gondola up — but we both know how much more you’ll appreciate the panoramic views over Vancouver when you feel like you’ve earned them. But don’t get too cocky; it’s not as easy as you think.

The base of Grouse Mountain is easily reachable from Vancouver by public transit or car. Once there you can decide if you want to give the Grouse Grind a go, or if you’d be more comfortable skimming over the tree tops in the Skyride.

If you choose the former, be prepared. Wear sturdy footwear and bring water. I’ve seen unprepared hikers being carried back down when they couldn’t continue (with a look on their face like they’d just spent a week in the desert). I’ve also seen countless visitors wearing jeans, flips-flops, and Gucci handbags. This is not a walk in the park, so give it the respect it deserves.

The hike is a steep one, and is mostly up steps. If you’re in decent shape, expect to complete it within one to one and a half hours. If you’re fitter than a fiddle, you can try to break the official men’s record of 26:19 or the women’s of 31:04.

Plenty to do and see in the summer

Sure enough, in the wintertime you can shush your way down the ski runs, ride in a horse-drawn sleigh, ice skate and snowshoe. But there is also plenty to do during the summer months.

Photo: unwritten

No matter how you decide to get to the top, you face a variety of entertaining summer activities. Some of the things on offer: scenic chairlift rides, ziplines, paragliding, and helijet rides. You can also visit the grizzly bears at the wildlife refuge, watch the lumberjack show, or take in a flick at the Theatre in the Sky.

On a clear day, Grouse has some of the best views over Vancouver, the surrounding areas, and Burrard Inlet, so don’t forget your camera.

It’s not advisable to hike down the Grind, but for just a few bucks you can descend in the Skyride. Make sure you hold on as it passes the towers — it can get a bit bumpy!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more in our mountains series, click here for posts on peaks like Volcan Licancabur in Bolivia, Tai Shan in China, Mt. Etna in Sicily, and Katahdin in Maine.

Photo: mfajardo

1. Kettlehouse Brewing Company, Missoula, Montana

Known lovingly as the “K-hole” by Missoulians, this tiny brewery features an even smaller taproom where you’ll find locals of all stripes downing Cold Smoke Scotch Ale.

They don’t serve food, but the intensely hoppy Double Haul will usher in the perfect ending to a day of fly fishing the Clark Fork (a mere 200 feet from the front door) or exploring Glacier National Park.

2. Barrio Brewing, Tucson, Arizona

If you’re visiting Tucson to cure Seasonal Affective Disorder, consider this brewery for your therapy. Barrio is hard to find, but the beer and the beautiful view of the surrounding mountains makes it worth the effort.

Their porter is a GABF award winner and even in the heat of summer should not be passed over for the lighter beers in their lineup. Don’t be alarmed when the patrons shout that a train is coming. Beers go on special when the railroad gates come down over the road outside.

3. Full Sail Brewing Company, Hood River, Oregon

This tiny town in the Columbia River Gorge is the gateway to Mt. Hood and home to some of the world’s best windsurfing and kayaking. The drive through the gorge to get there is worth the trip itself, but the beers take it to the next level. Enjoy a cask-conditioned Imperial Stout while looking out over Hood River and the Columbia Valley.

4. Second Street Brewery, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Break away from the tourist strip and head to Second Street for late afternoon sun and fresh beer out on the patio. You can hear live music, mingle with locals, and drink a great Scotch Ale.

5. Clipper City Brewing Company, Baltimore, Maryland

Every year, scores of tall ships sail into Baltimore’s historic ship-building Inner Harbor as mobile museums. After exploring some of the ships that altered the course of human exploration and transportation, grab a Loose Cannon IPA. Clipper City is known as much for their whimsical beer labels as for their small-production winter reserve ale.

6. Free State Brewing Company, Lawrence, Kansas

Kansas may be considered fly-over country, but as you look over the wheat fields, you’ll realize all those craft beers you’ve enjoyed your whole life were born right here. What better way to get in touch with the beer’s grainy lifeblood than a stop into Free State? Lemongrass Wheat is the perfect thirst-quencher for a summer afternoon on the prairie.

7. Uncle Billy’s Brew & Que Smokehouse & Brewery, Austin, Texas

While you’re in Austin checking out the music scene, get back to what Texas is really about by visiting Uncle Billy’s. Don’t expect to find a dark beer on tap, but the Back 40 Blonde is surprisingly hoppy. Also available are brews by the newly opened 512 Brewing.

When in Texas do as the Texans do and slather their signature habanero hot sauce on your food.

8. Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn, New York

Photo: Techincolocalvary

Brooklyn Brewery’s central location in the city makes it an easy stop-over between sites and events. Notable brews are The Pennant Ale ‘55 and the Post Road Pumpkin, one of the best flavored ales around.

9. Sleeping Giant Brewery/Lewis and Clark Brewing Company, Helena, Montana

This small city is central to all locations in the Big Sky State but is best known for its deep roots in the boom-and-bust world of precious metals. Stop into Lewis and Clark (still known as Sleeping Giant to the locals) for a burger and a Tumbleweed IPA, one of the best IPAs in the country.

10. Deschutes Brewery & Public House, Bend, Oregon

Bend has become synonymous with rec-head culture. At Deschutes you’ll find friends recounting the day’s rides along McKenzie River Trail or how the world looked from atop one of the Three Sisters.

While the Deschutes brewery has a nice taproom, its Public House offers special brews — like cask-conditioned ales — that the brewery doesn’t.

11. Ale Asylum, Madison, Wisconsin

You expect something different from this funky Midwest college town and the Ale Asylum delivers. The cleverly named brews run the emotional gamut from Ambergeddon to Happy Ending, fitting perfectly with the underground culture of the city that gave us The Onion.

The brewers bring their eclectic tastes to the taproom. The Hopalicious APA, as the name suggests, tastes like it’s brewed on the other side of the Rockies.

12. Boundary Bay Brewery, Bellingham, Washington

Ideal parking at the Boundary Bay Brewery, Bellingham, WA. Photo: Evil Erin

A trip to the San Juans won’t be complete without a stop at Boundary Bay. Like most taphouses worth visiting, it’s often packed with locals. The IPA has the hoppiness associated with the Pacific Northwest, and the Amber is well balanced and smooth.

13. Asheville Pizza & Brewing Company, Asheville, North Carolina

Asheville Pizza does various takes on the traditional pie, and their Shiva IPA and Houdini ESP are both exceptional brews.

14. Moab Brewery, Moab, Utah

Moab is home to Canyonlands and Arches National Parks and is unique in the world for its mountain biking scene. When visiting the Moab Brewery, check out the Dead Horse (named after the famous Canyonlands vista point) and Deraillieur Ales.

15. AleSmith Brewing Company, San Diego, California

AleSmith shows you what craft brewing is all about. Both the brewmasters and their beers have won awards. They have a huge selection (by brewery standards) on tap, so expect to spend a full weekday afternoon sampling. Note: the taproom isn’t open weekends.

Happy folks beering up at the The Long Trail Inn, Vermont. Photo: broken_images

16. Long Trail Brewing Company, Bridgewater Corners, Vermont

The Green Mountains of Vermont are home to the Long Trail, the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the U.S. It crosses the state’s highest peaks from the Massachusetts state line 270 miles north to the Canadian border. It’s also the namesake of Long Trail Brewing, one of New England’s premier micros.

Stop into their active brewery and see the action from a balcony above the floor on a self-guided tour, or just enjoy one of their signature ales on a balmy day in their riverside “beer garden.”

17. Twisp River Pub, Twisp, Washington

Northwest sport climbers and mountaineers alike will run across the small town of Twisp at some time in their lives, if only passing through to get to the exposed granite of the northern Cascades. The Twisp River Pub is excellent; Methow Brewing is a true microbrewery, keeping batches to 100 gallons or less for the highest quality. They also pull some beers by hand using a traditional beer engine.

18. Novare Res Bier Cafe, Portland, Maine

Old Port’s Novare Res has the best beer selection anywhere in New England. Whether you grab a seat inside at one of the wood-paneled bars or outdoors on the expansive patio, anything from Maine’s local Allagash Brewing is a good pick for a pint.

19. Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats, Rehoboth Beach, Delaware

Expect something different from Dogfish Head beers — like the Raison d’Extra, a brown ale brewed with raisins. If you’re going to sample more than a couple, bring money for a cab. These beers not only have plenty of alcohol, but they seem to have been magically brewed to hit harder than most. Dogfish also handcrafts gin, vodka, and rum. Plan to sleep in.

20. New Belgium Brewing, Fort Collins, Colorado

New Belgium was one of the founders of the microbrew movement and has since grown to the point that it blurs the line between micro and macro. Their top-notch beers have a wide fan base, but they also put on a deep roster of community events focused on sustainability.

Don’t miss the summer Bike-In Cinema nights (think drive-in, but with bikes and beer). There’s nothing more pleasurable than lying back on the grass under glittering stars, sipping a Fat Tire Amber and enjoying a flick with 300 like-minded souls.

Community Connection:

Traveling this Spring? Check out our roundup of 10 of the World’s Best Beer Festivals in May.

This isn’t the first Trips article to profile standout towns. Make sure to check out Gateway to Pristine America: 12 Towns on the Edge of Spectacular Wilderness as well as our picks for the Top 15 Adventure Towns Worldwide.

All photos: Carl Montgomery

Near-continuous violence since the Soviets invaded in 1979 has been effective at erasing Afghanistan from most tourists’ maps.

But it seems the government is hoping for a change with the creation last week of the country’s first national park. In addition to attracting visitors, the park should provide vital protection to a region where it’s been lacking in the past.

Band-e-Amir National Park is located in central Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush Mountains and includes five high-altitude lakes. Nearby Bamyan Valley made headlines in 2001 when its massive, 1,500-year-old Buddha statues where dynamited by the Taliban.

The park’s establishment could also tip the scales in the region’s favor regarding its pending candidacy for UNESCO World Heritage status.

Visitors will still have difficulties to contend with — ongoing military actions being the first that comes to mind, as well as a local fishing method utilizing hand grenades. But the park also offers much in the way of pristine nature, according to BBC reporter Alan Johnston:

“In the stillness of the high, thin air, the blue and turquoise waters are often like glass, perfectly reflecting the slopes around them.”

For more on this fresh travel destination, check out the BBC’s take here.

Community Connection:

Alan Johnston isn’t the only one reporting from the ground in Afghanistan. Matador members YoLeven and moshdeh are currently in-country, and they’ve posted a couple killer blogs about their experiences.

Other ideas on travel to protected natural areas, including some as unexpected as this one, can be found in 13 of the World’s Richest National Parks.

One of the newest members of our growing roster of Matador destination experts, Dominic is a travel writer and photographer based in Montevideo.

About me: I say “cheers” in ten languages and counting. I enjoy meeting newness – whether it be a different type of cheese or a new country.

In addition to Uruguay, some of his favorite travel destinations have been Colombia, Australia, Japan, and Denmark.

I’m fired up on: Culture. History. Writing. Photography. Speaking Spanish. Playing basketball. Reading. Cooking. Still learning more and more salsa. New-ness. Now.

Dominic has this to say about his adopted home country: “Whether you are in the town-ish capital city of Montevideo, or hanging out on the beaches of Rocha, Uruguay will offer its visitor a memorable time.”

Let’s collaborate: I am currently in Montevideo, writing for a few publications, starting to take my photography seriously (as I know when and where to show my expensive camera and equipment). I am keeping a blog here if you want to check it out.

For further collaboration, visit his Matador profile.

Community Connection:

The Matador community is full of destination experts who can help you plan your next trip, field oddball questions about their region, or just fill out your travel network! Search their ranks on this page.

For information on how to become a destination expert yourself, click here.

Photo: Jayel Aheram

From the imperial Japanese conquest to the genocidal madness of the Khmer Rouge, the brutality was fierce and many were subject to its realities. The people of these countries haven’t forgotten their past ordeals and many sites have been erected to remind us of the horrors of war.

Here are seven humbling experiences in Asia:

Photo: breezyjay

1. The Cu Chi Tunnels

This rabbit warren of tunnels, located an hour outside Ho Chi Minh City, was a hotbed of guerrilla activity during the Vietnam War. Ex-Vietcong soldiers guide you around the site and through the underground passages.

Seeing the claustrophobic confines the Vietnamese endured for over 10 years gives you respect for their toughness and determination to win.

Tip: The tunnels are tight and dirty — dress appropriately. And don’t skip the anti-American propaganda film at the beginning.

2. Korean War POW Camp

During the Korean War, tens of thousands of North Korean and Chinese POWs were confined in this camp on Geoje Island, off the southern tip of the Korean peninsula. The entire area has been reconstructed, with life-sized dioramas depicting the soldiers working, rioting, and even doing their business in the latrines.

3. Tuol Sleng Prison and Killing Fields

Tuol Sleng Prison — code named S-21 — is where the Khmer Rouge interrogated and tortured nearly 17,000 victims during their murderous four-year reign. The prison was a high school, converted shortly after the Khmer Rouge took power. Photos of the thousands of victims can be viewed here, reminding us that these were real people.

Photo: leojmelsrub

The Killing Fields are located just outside Phnom Penh. It is here where the “enemies of the people” were executed. They were most often clubbed over the head in order to save bullets. Bullets are available to visitors, however, which you can shoot out of AK-47 rifles. Appropriate, or not? You decide.

4. The Massacre Museum

This museum/memorial in Nanjing, China, is dedicated to the victims of the rape of Nanjing. In 1937, Japanese troops occupied the city and went on a six-week spree of rape and murder, culminating in the death of some 300,000 unarmed Chinese.

They were so savage in their attacks that a Nazi official living in the city tried to intervene. He even wrote to Hitler to plead for German pressure. You know you’ve crossed the line when the Nazis are telling you to chill out.

5. The War Remnants Museum

Photo: imjoshdotcom

Formerly known as “The Museum of American War Crimes,” this one’s located in Ho Chi Minh City. It is dedicated to showing the world the depths to which the Americans and their allies went to keep the Vietnamese people down.

While sometimes overwrought with histrionic propaganda, the museum hits visitors in the gut with graphic images of the effects of Agent Orange and napalm, along with three jarred human fetuses deformed by exposure to dioxin. Not for the faint of heart.

Tip: Go well after lunch.

6. Panmunjeom and the DMZ

The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) bisects the whole of the Korean peninsula, acting as a buffer between the two countries. It’s four kilometers wide and, apart from being the most heavily armed border in the world, is very surreal. You know you’re visiting a place that could erupt in violence at any moment.

The Panmunjeom “truce village,” also known as the “Joint Security Area,” lies right in the middle of the DMZ. It’s home to a handful of buildings, where the two sides face off in this last Cold War outpost. You can walk into one of the meeting rooms which span the actual border.

The line of demarcation is drawn on the floor and even along the negotiation table. Stern-faced North Korean soldiers watch your every move, while sunglass-sporting Southern troops face down their Northern adversaries in rigid Tae Kwon Do stances.

Tip: Pay attention to the dress code and don’t point — it’s strictly prohibited.

7. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

Photo: troshy

It’s impossible to walk away from here without a sense of humility and sadness. The surroundings are so peaceful and beautiful it’s hard to imagine Hiroshima was the site of the world’s first atomic attack on 6 August 1945.

Most haunting is the A-bomb Dome, which is the skeletal remains of the Industrial Promotion Hall, the building closest to the bomb’s hypocenter that remained standing. It’s a concrete reminder of the victims of the bombing.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Does “dark tourism” — visiting sites related to death and suffering — turn these places into mere spectacles? You may find your answer in this article.

And what if you do visit an old war site — is it OK to document what you see? Ian MacKenzie discusses it here.

Feature photo and photo above by Radio Nederland Wereldomroep.

Why visit Angola? A quick Google search brings up articles about a past war and its consequences. The red, yellow, and black flag with a prominent machete is all but welcoming.

Angola is not a tourist destination, but a true “third-world” country. You probably have heard very little about it, if at all. Its infrastructure is in urgent need of repair…and you can’t get past that machete on the flag!

But these facts are exactly what make Angola so alluring. It’s one of Africa’s best-kept secrets and one of its least understood countries.

Here are five reasons to book that trip to Luanda, Angola’s capital, in the coming year.

1. CAN 2010

The Euro Cup’s lesser-known but equally competitive cousin, the African Cup of Nations (known as the CAN), takes place every two years. In 2010, it’s going down in Luanda, Benguela, Lubango, and Cabinda — coincidentally, the cities most suited to receive travelers to Angola.

The CAN has spurred massive reconstruction projects in these four areas, and a frenzy to construct more hotels, restaurants, roads, and other tourist-related infrastructure is underway throughout the country.

The two-week tournament to decide the best football team in Africa is a festival of vibrant color and thunderous sound. There are no football fans in the world like the Africans, who have no qualms about employing full body paint to express support for their team.

Photo: tata_aka_T

2. Latin Flavor

Angola is one of only six African countries where English or French is not the lingua franca. (Just to put things in perspective: there are 52 countries on the continent.) Portuguese is spoken by nearly all Angolans, and the culture is a lot closer to that of Bahia in northern Brazil than, say, Cape Town in South Africa.

The capital city of Luanda has architecture reminiscent of Lisbon’s rather than London’s, with orange thatched roofs and a distinct Latin flavor.

Seasoned travelers will find parallels between Angola and other Latin American cultures — Argentines have their tango while Angolans have their kizomba, a suggestive dance involving two clasped partners in a rhythm very similar to Caribbean zouk, which brings me to my next topic…

3. Music & Nightlife

Even during the civil war that wrecked the country, angolanos never gave up an excuse to party. In fact, one of the national pastimes is inventing a reason to do so. The nightlife in Luanda and Benguela is off the hook, with party-goers leaving their houses around midnight and only returning at 5 am.

In Luanda, there’s something for everyone — if European house music is your thing, head to Chillout. If you’re looking for a more native experience, there are numerous terrace parties around the city, as well as more Afro-centric nightclubs like W Club and Jango Veleiro.

In these places you’ll find the electric, raw, roughhouse beat called Kuduro (literally meaning “hard ass,” as in steel buns), which has been making headlines around the world ever since M.I.A. did a song with the visionary, manic, Buraka Som Sistema. Watch the video below:

It’s physically impossible to sit still while listening to that jam.

4. No McDonald’s

Or Starbucks, for that matter. Mainly due to its years of communist rule (ending in 1991), and a civil war that made foreign investors wary, Angola has largely been spared the worldwide homogenization of culture. There are no discernible North American chain stores, restaurants, or the like.

If you want a real coffee, you go to a café; if you want a burger, you get a massive one with egg, mayo, ketchup, and fries from one of the many burger stands spread around the country’s main towns. Most establishments are still mom ‘n’ pop.

In the same vein, you won’t find a Hyatt, Marriott, Sheraton, Hilton, or any other big-name hotel. Instead, look to the numerous pensions, B&Bs, and bungalows in the more rural areas. The few big hotels in Luanda are too expensive anyway.

Photo: Felipe Miguel

5. Diverse Topography

The country has desert, rainforest, canyon formations, savannahs, plateaus, and 1600 km of coastline. Many beaches are virtually virgin, especially in the province of Benguela and the islet of Mussulo off the coast of Luanda.

In the extreme north of the country is the Congo rainforest, while in the Namibe province — easily accessible by car coming from Lubango (and you get to drive on Serra da Leba) — you’ll find the Namib desert, with its prehistoric cave paintings, rock structures, and safaris.

In the province of Bengo, about an hour and a half south of Luanda, you can sleep amongst animals in bungalows located in Kissama National Park. After the war tore through the region, new animals had to be flown in from South Africa in a modern-day Noah’s Ark experiment.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Is Africa in your travel plans? Be sure to check with Matador’s destination experts — there are 8 in Africa! — for local recommendations.

Photo above: NeilsPhotography, Feature photo: juanete

Psychedelic desert: the Southwest Circuit

You’re in the middle of Bolivian nowhere.

In front of you is a shallow bowled depression, its center carpeted in a bright green lake filled with flamingos. Over your shoulder rise twin volcanic peaks, capped with ice. Just beyond the next ridge stretches a snow-white salt flat, rippling with heat from the midday sun…

Few travelers to Bolivia miss the “Southwest Circuit.” The Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat, is its star attraction. Standing in the center of its 4,000-square-mile expanse, horizons vanish, leaving nothing but blinding white below and rich, unblemished blue above.

Those lucky enough to visit during the wet summer, when the entire plain is covered in an inches-thick pool of water that reflects the cloudy sky, can convince themselves their Land Cruiser has taken flight.

But the salar fills only one day of the circuit tour. The rest are spent tearing through some of the most inhospitable desert terrain on the planet.

Brilliantly colored chemical lakes, peak after peak of snowy volcanoes, and Andean wildlife (llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, flamingos, and ostrich, for starters) all compete with the salar for your camera’s memory card megabytes.

Photo: zaturno

I doubt anyone regrets the trip—that said, all tours are not created equal.

The salar and deserts of Los Lípez see more visitors every year. Caravans of jeeps depart daily from the town of Uyuni, the traditional starting point. After four days stuck in the middle of the globular tourist amoeba, many are left asking, “Is there a better way to do this?”

The answer is yes.

Turn the tables: start in Tupiza

Your best option for escaping the crowds is to traverse the circuit in reverse. Make the town of Tupiza your point of origin, with a tour that loops through the sights and ends in Uyuni.

Photo: zaturno

In addition to having the Lípez to yourself, you’ll be saving the best for last. Why knock out the salar on the first day, as the typical Uyuni tours do? They also require a long, backtracking drive on the last day.

By ditching the masses, you’ll avoid the sketchier agencies operating out of Uyuni. Companies there pop up and disappear again without notice, making it close to impossible to get reliable recommendations.

For the most part, Tupiza-based agencies are more established. They have a smaller customer base, and therefore more to prove.

Regardless of who you go with, your tour from Tupiza will look something like this:

Day 1

Bust out of town around 9am and drive till sunset through canyon-cut, cactus-covered terrain. Though lacking “big-name” sights, the day exposes you to the desolation of Los Lípez and gives you a glimpse of what life is like for the few communities living here. Other jeeps = scarce to nonexistent.

Day 2

The mountainous, llama-filled desert continues, transforming mile by mile into the surreal vistas that make it onto the postcards. Once you enter Eduardo Avaroa National Wildlife Refuge, it’s on: colored lakes, hot springs, flamingo flocks, geysers, crazy rock formations, and painted volcanoes.

At some point, you’ll hit Laguna Verde and Volcán Licancabur in the country’s southwest corner. From here, you can tack on an extra day and climb the 19,400 ft (5900 m) Licancabur or other peaks. It’s also possible to hop over the border, connecting to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.

Photo: wili_hybrid

Day 3

After two days of solitude, the Land Cruisers start to multiply around the eerily red Laguna Colorada. Pulling up at the sculpted rocks that surround Árbol de Piedra, only to find them covered with sunburned, North-Faced climbers, comes as quite a shock.

More lakes await, and the end of the day will bring you to the edge of the salar itself.

Day 4

Photo: hillsieboy

This is really a long half day. Wake before dawn to catch the sunrise on the salt.

A visit to the cactus-infested Isla del Pescado is followed by a group photo shoot in the middle of the salar, where the lack of distance perspective makes all kinds of crazy camera illusions possible.

After checking out a hotel made entirely of salt and a stop at a tourist market, you should pull into Uyuni around 1pm.

Practicalities

Tupiza is roughly 11 hours by train from Oruro, and a handful more from La Paz. Hop the train if you can; the buses running the route are old and drafty. Breakdowns are common.

Solo travelers and couples should schedule at least one extra day in Tupiza — longer in the low season — to find a group to hook up with. Standard tours won’t leave with fewer than four passengers; five or six means less legroom but bigger savings.

Photo: Naturaleza

Killing time in town isn’t difficult. This is Butch and Sundance country (the outlaws were gunned down in a village less than an hour away), with scenery rivaling the best of the American West.

Horseback riding, canyon hiking, and rock climbing will keep you occupied till your tour leaves.

Operators running out of Tupiza are scarce compared to the hordes of Uyuni-based agencies. Tupiza Tours is one of the originals and has managed to maintain a solid reputation through the years. Yet even with them, it’s essential to double check the contract—triple check if your group is doing anything other than the standard 4-day tour.

Other options include Valle Hermoso and El Grano de Oro Tours.

One last note: it gets cold in the desert. Damn cold. Accommodations are basic and unheated. Bring a sleeping bag or rent one from your company — even in the summer. During the winter, if you’re lucky your guide will give you a hot water bottle each night to stuff into the bottom of your bag. Yeah…daaaamn cold.

Photo: jaytkendall

Community Connection:

Check out today’s companion post, “Summiting Mount Doom in Bolivia,” for further details on climbing Volcán Licancabur.

For more on Bolivia’s spectacular sights, read about photographer Ron Dubin’s assignment in the country in “Big Bolivian Sunsets.”

If you’re looking to mix a little philanthropy with your visit to the country, Matador member org Sustainable Bolivia offers a range of rewarding volunteer opportunities.

Feature photo: kiki-bolivien, Others: author

Images of Tolkien’s volcano come to mind. Perfectly coned slopes loom over a stretch of desert so sinister it could be taken for Mordor itself.

I always thought Frodo was a chump, but after climbing the 19,423 ft (5,920 m) Licancabur, I’m willing to cut him some slack.

Backdrop: Desolation

This peak lives in the extreme southwestern corner of Bolivia, straddling the border with Chile.

The nearest town, San Pedro de Atacama, is on the Chilean side, but the trail to the summit is in Bolivian territory.

Lagunas Verde and Blanca (named for the colors of their naturally chemical-rich waters) lie at Licancabur’s base, and this pocket of surreal scenery is visited on most tours of Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit.

Getting to the mountain independently is possible, but it’s more conveniently done as an add-on day to the tour. Either way, a guide is mandatory for the climb.

The Ascent

After a short sleep in one of the little refugios on the shore of Laguna Blanca, the trek begins an hour before sunrise. With its silhouette blacking out the stars, Licancabur is even more ominous.

You’ll start shedding layers once the sun crests the horizon and soaks everything in golden warmth. The new light will also have you throwing glances over your shoulder after each deliberate step to gawk at the desert plain, dotted with volcanic humps, stretching away behind you.

The going is slow — your guide wisely sees to that. Even towards the bottom, the elevation can cripple. If you get the soroche headache before the halfway point, you’re done. You won’t be allowed to summit.

The last 500 meters of climb blur — step, gasp, head rush…over and over. No one speaks; no one can. Eventually you hit snow, then the false peak, and 30 minutes later the pile of sticks and stones that marks the top.

The Summit

Your guide will give you no more than 10 minutes topside; you should be ready to descend before that anyway.

Remind yourself to take at least a short break from the camera so you can enjoy the experience LCD-free.

Check out the little lake in the volcano’s crater (some say it’s the highest in the world), and with dizzy eyes try to make out the remains of Incan temple foundations — that’s right, people have been climbing this rock for centuries.

If you’ve been chewing your coca, the descent should be no problem. Each meter dropped is a deeper inhale of O2. By the time you hit bottom, you’ll feel like an Incan mountaineer yourself.

For advice on getting to Licancabur, click over to today’s companion post, “Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit. Backwards.”

Community Connection:

Along with Mount Doom, China’s Tai Shan is another peak heavy with legend. Read how to summit it — and ensure you’ll live to see your 100th birthday — here.

If you prefer your mountains extra spicy, consider these 11 that David DeFranza singled out as the world’s most dangerous.

In the LA area? You can check out her full collection between April 7-May 3. Gallery details here.

1. In the ancient city of Bagan, formerly known as Pagan, you will still see oxcarts and horse carts as ordinary transportation. A family pays their respects to the young novice in training as they pass by one of the many hundreds of grand temples and pagodas.

2. This golden cave near Pindaya, Burma, contains over 8,000 images of Buddha in all shapes and sizes. Some of the older statues and images in the cave have inscriptions dating to the late 1700s.

3. Around Inle Lake, you will see the unique Intha Fishermen who balance one foot on the tip of their narrow boat and oar with the other ankle. The golden weir on the boat is the fishing net.

4. Two Intha Fishermen head out from the wharf where we spent a few ends of days — a good time to fish.

5. This man has most likely been forced out of his village to work as hard labor. The more bags of charcoal he can carry off the boat, the more he will earn.

6. Two sisters bathe around 8 a.m. in the large lake near Pindaya across from golden temple spires. They are unashamed to perform their daily ritual as we observe nearby.

7. Our small group attracts many children who offer us fragrant flower necklaces and magic lava rocks. Most people in Burma use thanaka — a paste made from tree bark — to paint their faces and protect them from the sun.

8. Playful novices look forward to a few minutes away from their rigorous training in the monasteries. Their red robes stand out from the old white-washed temple.

9. An 84-year-old nun smokes a cheroot — an herbal tobacco cigarette.

10. In Mt. Popa, Burma, capersome monkeys outnumber the population and live amongst the villagers. They love to perch on monuments and colorful facades for some good portraits!

11. The ruins of Bagan cover an area of 16 square miles. The majority of its buildings were built in the eleventh to thirteenth centuries when Bagan was the capital of the First Burmese Empire. Standing atop one of the thousand temples, a Bagan sunset is an awesomely beautiful and iconic landscape.

12. A timely snapshot of a single monk and cyclist crossing the U-Bein Bridge at sunset while a lone boatman returns to the shore of Taungthaman Lake.

13. Herdsmen, field workers, and families use baskets across their shoulders and on their heads to carry crops, kindling wood, and even their babies. Many smoke cheroot cigars to relax.

14. All young Buddhist boys live at least 6 weeks a year in the monastery during their childhood — many will spend their entire lives. It appears these boys are sharing common stories.

15. Burma’s U-Bein Bridge is the longest teak bridge in the world built from unwanted teak columns from the old palace during the move to Mandalay. Everyday at sunset, monks, cyclists, villagers, and oxen parade across like shadow puppet theatre.

Community Connection:

For more photography from Burma (Myanmar), check out Ryan Libre’s “Controlling Light.” Tim Patterson provides a unique written picture of life among northern Burma’s Kachin minority in “Kachin Christmas: Finding Faith in Myanmar.”