Meet an Expert: Iran

31 Aug 2009 in Destination Experts by Hal Amen

Photos: Jason Rezaian

Jason Rezaian isn’t just Matador’s destination expert on Iran — he does this for a living.

Ever had a travel question you wanted answered about Iran? This is your lucky day. Long-time Matador member Jason Rezaian happens to be our destination expert on the country, and he comes to us well qualified.

In his own words:

I assist journalists as well as private citizens in their travel plans for Iran, and I would love to answer any questions you may have.

How’s that for an invitation?

Here’s a little more about this week’s expert:

Favorite places I’ve been: Esfahan, Iran. Bangkok. New York City. Musee Rodin, Paris. Havana.
Languages spoken, other than English: Farsi and Spanish
I felt the most immersed in a foreign culture when: Getting my drycleaning done in Tehran.

Jason has shared his experiences here on Matador in the article A Common Language: Discovering Baseball in Iran, and he blogs about expat life in the country for the San Francisco Chronicle website.

He’s also writer and executive producer of a documentary titled “A World Between.”

Got questions? All you have to do is click over to Jason’s Matador profile and send him a message.

For more on his professional services, visit Iran Media Service.

Community Connection

Don’t forget, we’re always looking to expand our roster of destination experts. If you think you’ve got what it takes, read this forum post about how to apply.

Wordless Wanderlust: Into the Alps

29 Aug 2009 in Mountains by Hal Amen
Here’s some weekend wanderlust inspiration for you. Get out and explore.

Community Connection

Who doesn’t love a good mountain? Visit Matador Network’s Mountains page for more.

Want to be a successful travel photographer?

Grab Matador’s Free Report 15 Publications That Pay For Travel Photography and kickstart your new career!

A Budget Travel Guide to Iceland

28 Aug 2009 in Guides by Katie Hammel
Sunset in Iceland

Photo: Deivis

Economic collapse or no, Iceland is still expensive to visit. But planning a budget trip is possible.
When to Go

Iceland is cold (though not as cold as you’d expect — temps don’t often drop much below 30F/-1C) and dark in the winter. Summers are warm…er, reaching highs of around 70F/21C in midsummer, when the days stretch into night and the sun barely sets.

Of course, this is when everyone wants to visit, and when prices for flights and hotels are the highest. Come in late fall or early spring instead to take advantage of rock-bottom hotel prices and cheap flights. The savings on airfare alone can reach 50%.

Getting There

Icelandair only operates out of a few U.S. airports, so your best bet is to book tickets to your departure point separately if you don’t live in a hub city.

Reykjavík, Iceland

Photo: sillygwailo

A more roundabout option is to score cheap tickets to a European city and connect from there to Reykjavik on Iceland Express, the country’s low-cost carrier. Tickets from cities like Copenhagen can be as low as $100 round trip.

Taxis from the airport to downtown Reykjavik run as high as $100 one way. A cheaper option is the Flybus, which costs around $17 and drops passengers at the BSI Bus Terminal, a 5-minute walk from the city center.

Make It a Short Stay, or a Combo Trip

It’s a simple equation — spend less time in the country and you’ll spend less money. You can get a good taste in a few days, and because Iceland is just over 5 hours from New York, you won’t feel compelled to stay longer to justify the lengthy plane ride.

You can also combine a trip to Iceland with a few more days in another European city. Icelandair offers free stopovers in Reykjavik on your way between Europe and the U.S.

Drive Yourself

There’s no need to hire an expensive driver or shell out for tours to see the major sites around Reykjavik. Rent a car for around $70/day and set out to explore the Golden Circle yourself.

Strokkur Geyser

Photo: exfordy

You’ll drive through Thingvellir National Park and an awesome landscape, dotted with rifts where two tectonic plates are moving apart. The gurgling Geysir no longer erupts, but nearby Strokkur still puts on a reliable show. The thundering Gullfoss waterfall is also nearby.

Along the way you can stop to make friends with the short, stocky (don’t call them ponies), and incredibly inquisitive Icelandic horses.

If you plan on venturing further out, costs are going to add up. Many portions of the Ring Road that circles Iceland are unpaved and you’ll need to spring for a 4WD vehicle with extra insurance.

Don’t need a car for the whole trip? Arrange to pick it up and drop it off at different locations, which most companies will allow you to do for free or for a very small fee.

Self-Cater and Save on Dining

Dining in Reykjavik is expensive — save by staying in accommodations with a kitchenette so you can cook for yourself.

For cheap eats, try one of the famous Icelandic hot dogs, addictive tubes of grilled lamb meat topped with mustard, ketchup, gravy, remoulade, and onions, which cost under $3.

Icelandic hot dogs

Photo: sillygwailo

Get your seafood fix at Icelandic Fish and Chips, an organic bistro with a rotating selection of freshly caught, battered and baked fish.

Tapas Barinn may sound like it specializes in Spanish cuisine, and while it does serve some traditional tapas dishes like patatas bravas and calamari, it also offers the Icelandic specialties of smoked puffin and grilled whale. Since portions are small (like the prices) you can try some of the more unusual local fare without fearing you’ll waste money.

Don’t Blow Your Booze Budget

Being on a tight budget doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the famous Rúntur, the all-night weekend pub crawl on Laugavegur Street in Reykjavik. Just do as the locals do and start your imbibing at home.

Stock up on booze at the airport duty free when you arrive and save as much as 60% off prices in the local liquor store. Arriving at the club well-tipsy avoids the need to buy rounds of $6-$8 beers.

Get Your Lopapeysa from a Granny

Distinctive handmade sweaters called lopapeysas are the quintessential Icelandic souvenir, but they’re expensive at up to $200 each.

Breeze past the souvenir shops on Laugavegur Street and head for the Kolaportid weekend flea market. Here you’ll find little Icelandic grannies selling hand-knitted sweaters for less than half the going tourist rate.

Do-It-Yourself Northern Lights Tours

Plenty of companies will offer to take you out for a viewing of the Northern Lights.

Northern lights in Iceland

Photo: DE-VE

The trouble is, cloud cover can make the phenomenon difficult to see even during the prime season, so there’s no guarantee.

Instead of shelling out for the chance to stare up at a cloudy night sky, keep an eye on the Northern Lights forecast. When conditions are right, drive your rental car back out to Thingvellir National Park for your own private show.

On the best nights you won’t even have to do that — they’ll be visible from downtown Reykjavik.

Save on Your Soak

While soaking in the Blue Lagoon is an unforgettable experience, it’s also kind of pricey at around $35 a session. Visit one of Reykjavik’s many public swimming pools instead. They’re open year round and heated from thermal spring water.

Get Money Back

Any foreigner who spends more than 4000 kronur ($31.50USD, as of Aug. 7) in a store should pick up a form that entitles them to 15% of the purchase price back as a tax refund. Keep the forms, fill them out, and collect the refund at the Tax-Free stand at the international airport. Ka-ching!

Community Connection

Iceland also happens to feature in 10 Countries Where You Can Enjoy Hot Springs and James Bond, 007: Secret (Travel) Agent.

For an armchair tour of this amazing island, check out Photo Essay: Iceland’s Fire and Ice.

America’s Most Dangerous Neighborhoods

27 Aug 2009 in Urban by Hal Amen
LA bank robbery

Photo: colin.brown

Twenty-five neighborhoods in the U.S. have been judged the country’s “most dangerous.” Which ones may surprise you.

A few weeks ago, Matador Trips editor Carlo Alcos posted a healthy reminder for us to keep our common sense about us when on the road.

It’s an important message aimed at travelers worldwide. But Americans might require an additional precaution — for times when they’re not on the road.

Common knowledge has it that many American urban areas are dangerous places, virtual no-gos to anyone who doesn’t have the misfortune of living there. And most frequently when talking about urban crime, we toss around city names: New Orleans, Detroit, St. Louis, Oakland.

But cities are big places. They have their stereotypical dicey areas of pawnshops and abandoned warehouses, but also their Whole Foods yuppie zones, with maybe even a country club thrown in somewhere.

Which is why a list posted on www.walletpop.com is so interesting. It ranks individual neighborhoods by “predicted rates of violent crime.” Here are the top 10:

1. Central Pky./Liberty St., Cincinnati, OH (45210, 45214)
2. State St./Garfield Blvd., Chicago, IL (60609)
3. 7th Ave./North River Dr., Miami, FL (33128, 33130, 33136)
4. Beaver St./Broad St., Jacksonville, FL (32202)
5. North Ave./Belair Rd., Baltimore, MD (21213)
6. Bales Ave./30th St., Kansas City, MO (64127)
7. Warford St./Mount Olive Rd., Memphis, TN (38108)
8. Forest Ave./41st St., Kansas City, MO (64110)
9. Route 352/Scyene Rd., Dallas, TX (75210)
10. Church Hill, Richmond, VA (23223)

You can read about the methodology used in the ranking process here.

Comparing the results to a 2008 list of America’s most dangerous cities brings up a lot of questions.

It seems the country’s most violent neighborhood is located in Cincinnati (in an area known as the “Brewery District”). But Cincinnati doesn’t even show up in the top 20 city rankings.

At the same time, New Orleans, 2008’s most dangerous city, is nowhere to be found on the neighborhood list. And the first mention of Detroit — that favorite whipping child — comes at 23rd.

Which do you think is a more accurate method for measuring location-based danger? And beyond that, do you think lists like this are helpful and informative or nonconstructive and fear mongering? Share your opinion in the comments.

Community Connection

Interested in taking this research one step further? Connect with Matador community members from different parts of the U.S. and see what they’re saying about their home neighborhoods.You can browse a list of locations here.

A Taste of Cognac, France

glass of cognac

Photo: Johan Larsson

Step aside Champagne, it’s Cognac’s turn.

Exploring the windy roads and rolling hills of France’s countryside in Cognac is a great trip in itself, but add some time with the beverage of royalty and you’ve got a unique experience.

Here are some things to do while in the region:

chateau

Photo: mayhem2006

Sleep in a chateau

The Cognac region has no shortage of accommodation options. If you’re looking for something in the center of town, check out the Hotel Francois.

For more atmosphere, the area is home to countless chateaus. A step above a B&B, chateaus are reasonably priced at around 100 € per night. Two worth a look are Chateau de L’Yeuse — where you can sip tea on a terrace while overlooking the hills — and Chateau Saint Martial, with private jacuzzis in the rooms.

Stroll through the town

The Charente River gives the towns of Cognac and Jarnac their quaint riverside feel. While you can easily spend all your time in the cafes and shops, there is much more. The Musee des arts du Cognac has a history of the town and its famous brandy, as well as art collections donated by local families.

A walk through Vieux Cognac and the town’s walls at the Chateau and Saint-Jacques Gates will take you back in time.

To rest your feet, hop on the local tram. The Tourist and Information Office provides tickets, maps, and walking tour information.

Jarnac

Photo: JarnaQuais

With the Atlantic Ocean only a two-hour drive away (the beach town of La Rochelle is highly recommended if you have time), seafood is available in abundance. Petits gris à la charentaise (snails) is a local delicacy, as is cognac-flavored Bavarian cream.

Learn about cognac

The BNIC (Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac) is an organization of 5,000 cognac merchants from the region, where 96% of the world’s cognac is produced.

Six areas are distinguished by their soil: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. When it was discovered the grapes in these areas were not suitable for fine wine, brandy was born. And when the distillers began to blend the brandy at different stages, cognac was created.

Although the basic process is simple, it is time consuming. It all begins with one litre of wine. After aging for 20 years, two-thirds is left. After an additional 30 years, half a litre remains. 100 years on you have just 10% of the original, and this is known as eau-de-vie (water of life) — the principal ingredient of cognac.

The three major types — VS – Very Special; VSOP – Very Superior Old Pale; and Napoleon XO – Extra Old — come from the differences in the process and how the liquids are blended.

The major players

Eighty percent of the world’s cognac comes from just four distilleries: Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin, and Courvoisier. The French government sets the guidelines and regulates the use of pesticides and harvesting times.

While Hennessy has its own vineyards, they’re more for testing purposes as the company uses nearly 2,000 growers to make their cognac. Since Irishman Richard Hennessy began his own company in the early 1700s, Hennessy has remained a family business, joining Moet & Chandon Champagne in 1971 to form Moet Hennessy.

Remy Martin

Photo: jessicafm

Jean Martell, who came from the island of Jersey, set up his company in 1715, making Martell the oldest of the cognac producers. On the grounds of the distillery is the Founder’s House, open to visitors and full of old documents and photos dating back to Jean Martell’s early days.

Remy Martin has been making cognac since 1724 and today produces 1.8 million cases per year. They also established the house of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne 60 years later. In the Cognac region, they operate Les Rendez-vous Remy Martin, where visitors can create packages that include everything from a picnic on the grounds to personalized tours and stays.

The House of Courvoisier is one of the younger cognac companies, only dating back to the 19th century, when Emmanuel Courvoisier and partner Louis Gallois turned their wine and spirit company in Bercy into a cognac dynasty, all thanks to a man named Napoleon. It was Napoleon III who labeled Courvoisier the “Official Supplier to the Imperial Court.”

Sample the drink

All of the major cognac companies offer distillery tours and tastings. Tours can also be arranged for some of the smaller cognac vineyards.

Although most people will tell you that cognac should be drunk neat, 70% of it is used in mixed drinks. The BNIC lists a few interesting choices including Cognac Summit (lime juice, ginger, VSOP cognac, lemonade, and cucumber) and Pink Love (VSOP cognac, raspberry liquor, and champagne).

Getting there

There are flights within Europe to Poitiers and La Rochelle (both under two hours away by car) through Ryan Air. From Paris, it’s about a five-hour drive to the Cognac region.

The three-hour highspeed TGV train ride from Paris’ Montparnasse station (easily accessible from downtown or Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports) to Angouleme puts you just 30 minutes from downtown Cognac.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

While in France, don’t waste your money on the Evian. Drinking tap water is on the rise in the country.

If you’re going to be in Paris as well, Paris, France By the Numbers can give you unique insight on the City of Lights.

Beyond the Mall of America: 8 Other Ways to Spend Your Time in the Twin Cities

25 Aug 2009 in Destinations, Guides, Urban by Valerie Ng
There’s more to Minneapolis and St. Paul than a supersized mall.

If the Mall of America — a place that brags of 20,000 parking spots and a dedicated drop-off/pick-up area for motor coaches — doesn’t turn your crank, here are 8 different ways to spend your time.

Lake Calhoun

Lake Calhoun / Photo: twodolla

1. Head to the lakes

Why go to an indoor water park when you’re in the city of lakes? Take your pick of several among the Chain of Lakes.

The largest is Lake Calhoun, a favorite of young people looking to lay on the beaches, bike, roller blade, or jog along the trails that encircle it. Get on the water for some canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfing.

2. Go for a bike ride

Biking is easy in this relatively flat city, and many streets have designated cycling lanes. The most scenic routes will take you over and along the Mississippi River.

Ride down Minnehaha Avenue to get to Minnehaha Falls Park, home of the waterfall that inspired Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s “The Song of Hiawatha.”

Summit Ave

James J. Hill House / Photo: puroticorico

3. Stroll along Summit Avenue

Garrison Keillor once remarked:

The difference between Minneapolis and St. Paul is the difference between pumpernickel and Wonder Bread.

St. Paul — the state capital — may not have the cultural venues of its more cosmopolitan neighbor, but perhaps Keillor missed the grand stately houses that line Summit Ave. Three residences of note are the Governor’s mansion, F. Scott Fitzgerald’s birthplace, and the James J. Hill House.

4. Go to the theater

The Twin Cities’ theater scene may not compare with Broadway, but Minneapolis’s landmark Guthrie Theater puts on high-quality classic and original productions. If you’re in town this fall, a national engagement of Little House on the Prairie will begin at the Ordway Theatre in St. Paul, with Melissa Gilbert playing Ma.

5. Eat

The Twin Cities aren’t strictly meat-and-potatoes territory and, these days, ethnic food isn’t limited to lutefisk. Although an overwhelmingly white metropolis less than 20 years ago, recent immigration from Southeast Asia, East Africa, and Latin America has added an international array of cuisines to the city’s food scene.

Cafe Latte

Cafe Latte / Photo: tboard

A global smorgasboard of eating options is available at the Midtown Global Market and along Eat Street, between Grant and 29th Streets.

For more upscale dining and nightlife, head to the Warehouse District near downtown, where your options include a number of sushi joints, an organic cafe, and Pizza Luce, considered to have the best pizza in town. Dessert lovers shouldn’t miss the decadent cakes at Cafe Latte on Grand Ave. in St. Paul.

6. Shop on Grand Avenue

OK, so you will probably break down and need your shopping fix. Grand Ave. in St. Paul is home to numerous independent shops and boutiques, as well as some chain stores.

7. Visit an art gallery or museum

Minneapolis is home to several impressive art collections.

Science Museum

Photo: A.M. Kuchling

The Minneapolis Institute of Arts features one of the most extensive collections of world art in the Midwest, while the Walker Art Center is considered one of the top modern art museums in the country. Across the street from the latter is the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, where you will find Claes Oldenburg’s Spoonbridge and Cherry.

If history is more your thing, the Minnesota History Center in St. Paul is home to changing exhibits about the state’s past. Science geeks will enjoy the Science Museum of Minnesota, which overlooks the Mississippi River and has an exhibit dedicated to it.

8. Attend a fair

State and county fairs are a Minnesota tradition. Each summer, Minnesota’s counties hold their own fairs. The main event is the Minnesota State Fair, which is running from August 27 to September 7 this year.

Known as the “Minnesota State Get-Together,” it’s the event where Minnesotans gather to celebrate their agricultural heritage and show off livestock, like a scene straight out of Charlotte’s Web. Disregard any healthy eating habits you may be following — standard Minnesotan fair food is deep fried and comes on a stick.

Community Connection

If you’re looking to combine a trip to the Minnesota State Fair with a visit to another Midwest city, make sure to check out Chicago on a Budget.

Greening the Iron Curtain: Redefining History in Germany

24 Aug 2009 in Fresh Ideas, Nature by Hal Amen
Former Iron Curtain near Bratislava

Photo above: Vladimír Tóth, Feature photo: gluemoon

During the Cold War, the Iron Curtain separated Germany. Today, it brings people and nature together.
Unexpected Effects

As it turns out, there are times when armed conflict benefits the environment. Just look at Korea’s DMZ, where wildlife thrives in the 4km-wide strip of no man’s land that divides the peninsula.

Something similar occurred along the infamous Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified border that cut for thousands of kilometers through Central Europe, demarcating East and West. 1,400 of those kilometers were in Germany.

While armed guards held vigil, nature flourished. In 1989 the border came down, but the ecosystem that had grown up around it remained. It’s now home to 600 of the region’s threatened animal and plant species, from rare mosses to endangered birds and wild cats.

Redefining the Past

The grünes band — or green belt — as of yet isn’t monitored by a single entity. Rather, it’s being managed by groups in charge of the natural preservation of the different regions it passes through.

German watchtower

Photo: Shyald

Guided and solo trekking options are now attracting visitors. Of course, a nice dose of history is mixed in, with sections of fence, watchtowers, and even old East Germany barracks (now converted into tourist accommodations) still standing.

But just as the Iron Curtain extended far beyond the borders of Germany, so too does the vision of the project.

The organization European Green Belt hopes to turn the entire former border route — from the north of Finland to Greece — into one giant nature preserve.

Cyclists are also on the case, working section by section to create the 4,225-mile Iron Curtain Trail. Some segments are already open, as reported recently in The New York Times.

Preservation won’t be easy. Landowners and developers are understandably eager to take advantage of the empty land.

But great potential exists to transform the significance of the Iron Curtain from oppression and conflict to rejuvenation and new beginnings.

Community Connection

Have you been to the Iron Curtain green belt? If so, we’d love to hear about it in the comments.

For other great routes to explore, check out these Trips titles:

Photo Essay: The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail

How To Trek The Inca Trail

A-OK Again on the Kokoda Trail

Great Routes Through the Maya Trail

Wordless Wanderlust: Flåm Railway in Norway

22 Aug 2009 in Destinations by Carlo Alcos
Here’s some weekend wanderlust inspiration for you. Get out and explore.
Flam Railway view

Photo: kennymatic

Community Connection

If trains turn you on, make sure to check out these Matador titles:

6 Tips For Pain-Free Train Travel

Trans Siberian Sidetrips: How to Break Your Train Ride

From Mumbai to Northern India by Train

Photo Essay: Iceland’s Fire and Ice

21 Aug 2009 in Mountains, Nature, Photo Essay by Paul Sullivan
Matador editor-at-large Paul Sullivan treats us to some of his landscape shots from the fascinating country of Iceland.
Highway No. 1 - A Road Through Nature

1. Iceland’s main road (the “1″) is around 800 miles long and circles the entire country. Since there is very little traffic on this island of 300,000 souls, not to mention a distinct lack of vegetation and wildlife, much of the time there’s just the country’s majestic nature — lava fields, glaciers, streams, lakes, and huge lichen-covered mountains — for company.

Northern Lights at Snaefellsnes

2. If you’re lucky you might even see the famous Northern Lights (aurora borealis). This photo was taken on a trip around the Snaefellsnes glacier, one of the most stunning areas of Iceland and just a 2-3 hour drive out of Reykjavik.

Mountain and Horses, Snaefellsnes

3. Another scene from Snaefellsnes, this time taken during sunset. Due to its low population, much of Iceland is quintessentially rural, though with a crazy volcanic twist that makes the landscapes highly distinctive and memorable. Ever seen sheep or horses grazing peacefully in a lunar-style lava field? You will here…

Horses

4. Speaking of horses, the Icelandic breed is world famous. They’re generally small — pony-sized in fact — and have special gaits. Fun fact: laws prevent animals from being imported to Iceland or returning to the country after they’ve been exported.

Fjords

5. Another very special (and largely under-acknowledged) area in Iceland are the Westfjords. The oldest part of the island geologically, they’ve developed a unique community. Travel up here can be tough due to the deep, winding fjords. On the upside you’ll often feel like you’re driving through a fairy tale.

More Fjords

6. A great time to visit the Westfjords is in April or May when there’s still a good chance of snow on the mountains, but when the roads are generally clear (they can be closed off during winter). Snow-based activities in the area include ice fishing, snowmobiling, and spontaneous snowman making.

Cracked House

7. The Westfjords region has generally been in decline since WWII and the fall-off of the fishing industries. Yet the tourist infrastructure is excellent and though many residents literally abandoned their houses and moved to Reykjavik for work, many others have kept second homes here.

Grey mountain

8. In harsher weather you can see and feel how bleak the Westfjords (and other remote parts of Iceland) can be. Yet even foreboding skies, whiplash winds, and driving rain can’t strip the country of its inherent and often unexpected beauty. The dominant forces of nature are felt everywhere.

Akureyri & Bluebells

9. On the other hand, Iceland is an absolute delight in summer. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not cold during spring, summer, or even (sometimes) autumn. In fact, temperatures are generally at European levels, give or take a few degrees. But don’t forget that the farther north you go, the less nighttime you’re going to get. Akureyri (pictured here from across the fjord), is the second largest city after Reykjavik with 10,000 inhabitants. It’s a popular place due to its exquisite setting, nearby whale-watching tours (in Husavik), and proximity to major natural attractions such as Lake Myvatn.

Akureyri Coast, Lundey Island

10. The coastline in Iceland’s north is fascinating with its strange mix of luminous green lichen, steep cliffs, and sky-wide vistas. This shot was taken near Husavik, one of the great whale-watching centers of the world. In the background is Lundey Island, home to a multitude of bird life including puffins, black guillemots, fulmars, and arctic terns.

Lake Myvatn

11. Lake Myvatn, an hour or so from Akureyri, is one of Iceland’s most beautiful and mysterious areas. A mesmerizing array of lava lakes, bubbling geothermal areas, and volcanic craters, it’s unlikely you’ll forget a trip here in a hurry. It really is like paying a visit to the moon (well, presumably. And with a bit more water).

Hverjfall Crater

12. To the east of the Myvatn area lies the formidable Hverfjall. A kilometer in circumference, this looming black volcanic crater was formed around 2,500 years ago.

Hverfall Crater 2

13. A wider view of Hverfjall takes in grazing horses, parts of Lake Myvatn, a snow-capped glacier, and the region’s famed geothermal resources, which power the Myvatn Nature Baths — or the northern Blue Lagoon as it’s known. This thoroughly modern spa area (see the building with the blue roof) has mineral-rich geothermal water, a cafeteria, three natural steam baths, and a 5000-sq.-meter geothermal bathing pool maintained at a constant temperature of 38-40ºC. Sploosh.

Hverarönd Geo Thermal Region

14. You can also see the bizarre formations created by that geothermal activity up close at Hverarönd, a collection of bubbling sulfuric mud, clay springs, and steaming rocks. Remember what I was saying about the lack of darkness in summer? This photo was taken at 11pm.

Community Connection

While in Iceland, take part in their version of a pub crawl. Find out How to Drink on the Reykjavik Runtur.

Want to be a successful travel photographer?

Grab Matador’s Free Report 15 Publications That Pay For Travel Photography and kickstart your new career!

World’s Best Stargazing Destinations

20 Aug 2009 in Nature by Bob Riel
2009 is the International Year of Astronomy. What better time to rediscover the wonders of the night sky?
Chile

Chile’s Atacama Desert mixes high altitude, dry air, and an absence of light pollution — a perfect recipe for some of the world’s best stargazing.

Mamalluca Observatory, Chile

Photo: jovengandalf

The highest desert on Earth is not necessarily an easy place to get to, but if you go you’ll be rewarded with some of the clearest skies on the planet.

The Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca offers public tours.

Or, for a more personal experience, book a room at the Hotel Elqui Domos, where seven geodesic domes feature upstairs bedrooms with detachable roofs so guests can enjoy a stunning view of the heavens from the comfort of their bed.

Hawaii

Hawaii is also a highly regarded destination for viewing the stars. In the middle of the Pacific Ocean, it’s relatively untouched by light pollution. The best spot in the island chain is the volcano of Mauna Kea on the Big Island.

At an altitude of 9,000 feet, it’s home to the Keck Observatory and one of the world’s largest optical telescopes.

It’s also the future site of the Thirty-Meter Telescope, which will be the most advanced telescope ever built when finished in 2018.

Hawaii beat out Chile for the honor of hosting this telescope after these two destinations were judged the best stargazing locations on the planet.

Visitors should begin at the Onizuka Visitors Center, which runs free nightly stargazing programs.

Southwestern United States

The Sonoran Desert in the American Southwest has particularly clear skies, and Kitt Peak National Observatory near Tucson houses the world’s largest collection of optical telescopes and offers nightly viewing opportunities.

Other sites in the region that are open to the public include Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles; Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, Arizona; and McDonald Observatory near El Paso, Texas. Or, in New Mexico, you can visit New Mexico Skies, rent a cabin in the Sacramento Mountains, and discover the stars from their mini-observatories.

Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah was the first place to be named an International Dark Sky Park and is considered to have some of the world’s best night views. Rangers lead summertime astronomy workshops.

Star trail in New Mexico

Photo: photofish12

DIY stargazing is another way to go.

Bryce Canyon in Utah; the Grand Canyon in Arizona; Chaco Culture in New Mexico; and Joshua Tree, Yosemite, and Death Valley in California are all Southwest parks that put on spectacular nighttime shows.

Southern Africa

Many destinations in Africa are excellent for stargazing due to their low population density, low levels of light pollution, and frequent cloudless nights.

South Africa and Namibia have particularly good opportunities for public viewing. The South African Astronomical Observatory offers tours at facilities in Sutherland and Cape Town, while Kruger National Park has astronomy programs for safari tourists.

For a unique lodging experience in Namibia, the Sossusvlei Desert Lodge is not only near the world’s largest sand dunes, but also has its own observatory and astronomers.

Australia and New Zealand

Like Chile, South Africa, and Namibia, Australia’s and New Zealand’s positions in the Southern Hemisphere mean you’ll be able to see stars that aren’t visible in the North, most notably the constellation of the Southern Cross.

An easily accessible destination in Australia is the Sydney Observatory, located near Sydney Harbor.

If you want to escape the city, the Astronomical Society of New South Wales hosts the annual South Pacific Star Party at a 100-acre site three hours from Sydney.

Stargazing party in Utah

Photo: a4gpa

Or, for a truly spectacular setting in the center of Australia, make your way to Uluru (Ayers Rock) for the Sounds of Silence experience, where you’ll dine in the open air and then listen to an astronomer give you a tour of the southern sky.

New Zealand has several good observatories, including the Auckland Stardome with its 360-degree dome theater. On the South Island, in Lake Tekapo township, the Mount John Observatory offers clear skies and a majestic location in the Southern Alps.

Scotland

If you’re looking for a stargazing destination in Europe, Scotland has some of the darkest skies on the continent. The northern lights are even visible occasionally, a phenomenon that usually requires a trip closer to the Arctic Circle.

An organization called Dark Sky Scotland now promotes dark sky parks in the Scottish Highlands. For organized viewing, you can check out the Royal Observatory in Edinburgh.

Community Connection

Read about Matador managing editor Julie Schwietert’s night out in Shakespeare Under the Stars: A Night at the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival.

For unforgettable Earth-bound vistas, check out Photo Essay: The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth.

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