Photo: Robert S. Donovan
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For more cemetery shots, don’t miss yesterday’s Photo Essay: Graveyards by Night.
1. Bedfordshire, England
Photo: L-plate big cheese
2. Anonymous lonely gravestone
Photo: new chap
3. Mountain View Cemetery, Shrewsbury, MA
Photo: WhitA
4. Jewish Cemetery in Pszczyna, Poland
Photo: Jacek Becela
5. Upper Riccarton, Christchurch, New Zealand
Photo: the evil monkey
6. Monmouth County, NJ
Photo: Sister72
7. Sheffield, England
Photo: polandeze
8. Anonymous frosty cemetery
Photo: thomas.barker
9. Baltimore, MD
Photo: llimllib
10. Bedfordshire, England
Photo: L-plate big cheese
Grab Matador’s Free Report 15 Publications That Pay For Travel Photography and help accelerate your career as a photographer.
Creepy…spooky…scary:
Ghostbusting 101: 6 Myths Debunked by Loyd Auerbach
American Hauntings: 5 You Can Visit and Investigate Firsthand
5 Scariest Sites to Visit This Halloween
Photo: Eneas
Marigolds, sugar skulls, and tequila-adorned altars — Paz was right. No holiday celebrates death like Día de los Muertos.
Its Aztec roots reach back millennia. Surviving colonial absorption into Catholicism’s All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days, the holiday retains the Aztec idea of death as a continuation of life in a parallel form; souls of the departed have an easier time visiting this world on Día de los Muertos, aided by the ofrendas (altars of offerings) the living set out.
Here’s a roundup of some of the best places to catch a celebration, both traditional and modern:
The sleepy streets of Pátzcuaro in central Mexico explode during Día de los Muertos week with truck-fulls of marigolds, street stalls selling pan de muerto (sweet bread), and one killer craft market. Look out for signature Catrinas, painstakingly ornate handmade calaca (skeleton) figures.
Photo: AlexPears
The local Purépecha people’s observance retains a more spiritual, traditional aspect than anywhere else — a soulfulness that counterbalances the slew of tourists.
Locally referred to as Noche de los Muertos, all-night graveside vigils are held in the villages surrounding Pátzcuaro on November 1.
In Tzintzuntzan, the next pueblo over, camping families cuddle up and tell stories about deceased loved ones at the foot of candlelit ofrendas. The local cemetery is open to the public, admission is free, and photographs are allowed (remember to be respectful).
Separate observances are held for angelitos — the souls of children. The most well-known occurs on the tiny island of Isla Janitzio in the middle of Lake Pátzcuaro. Mothers of angelitos hold a special procession to the children’s cemetery, while fishermen surround the island in candlelit boats.
As this is a popular observance, the island is uncomfortably full of tourists. Tip: Go after 3am.
Mexico D.F. sprouts marigolds and spontaneous streetside ofrendas during Día de los Muertos week. An altar contest is held in the Zócalo (main square) and big-time museums such as Casa Azul, Anahuacalli, and Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño get in the spirit with larger-than-life papier-mâché calaca scenes.
Photo: -Chupacabras-
Major vigils are held at the city’s largest cemeteries, Panteón Civil de Dolores and Bosque de Chapultepec.
Within the urban areas of Mexico City, the holiday is celebrated as a folk tradition, rather than a spiritual or religious affair.
This is not the case in the once-small-town of Mixquic, which has been geographically — but not culturally — swallowed by the southeasterly sprawl of the D.F.
Here, a cardboard coffin leads a candlelit procession through the streets to the town’s graveyards, where families gather to celebrate. Candles remain lit to guide spirits home and midnight bells toll to call them back.
Día de los Muertos observances in the Bay Area blend the familial focus of its large Latino population with the creativity of its arts community. San Francisco’s Mission District is ground zero for the November 2nd procession and altar exhibit, a 30-plus-year tradition.
Photo: sfmission.com
The free event draws an impressive cross-section of the city’s population and some heavily politicized, artistic works.
Across the Bay, Oakland’s Fruitvale district holds a daytime street fair on the Sunday preceding the holiday. Even with throngs of people and scores of vendors, the vibe is local, with traditional altars and dance performances, radio stations’ speakers throbbing hip-hop, local merchant booths, and some bangin’ Cali-Mex food stands.
Museums around the Bay embrace Día de los Muertos. Altars, events, and exhibits are held at the de Young and Oakland Museums and community galleries like SomArts, Galería de la Raza, and The Crucible.
Nothing may capture LA’s dichotomy of culture quite like the city’s most well-known Day of the Dead celebrations.
On the one side is the Self Help Graphics & Art’s festivities in the Evergreen Cemetery in East LA. This Chicano-centered art collective has been putting on the free November 2nd event since 1972, taking a community-based approach — local artists, residents, youth, and even nuns come together.
Photo: Loren Javier
Of similar authenticity is the Olvera Street Merchants’ nine nightly processions down their historic street in the evenings preceding the holiday, where you can sip free champurrado (a thick Mexican hot chocolate) and munch pan de muerto.
On the other side of the spectrum, across town, is the popular Hollywood Forever Cemetery’s admission-based celebration.
Faint whiffs of tradition mix with hip altars honoring celebrities, overpriced craft vendors, and a heavy taste of commercialization.
The altar contest draws some wryly imaginative creations, though, and the event serves as a fascinating example of the Hollywood-ification of culture.
While the exact connection between Mexico’s Aztec-based Day of the Dead and Guatemala’s Mayan-based version are not totally clear, the parallels are undeniable. Both pre-Columbian holidays were co-opted into the Catholic All Saints’ Day, and both retain a celebratory approach towards death.
Guatemalans take to the graveyards, decorating gravestones in similarly elaborate altars adorned with marigolds.
Photo: rejathor
What sets celebrations in Guatemala apart are the barriletes gigantes — extravagant and enormous kites central to the festivities.
These hand-constructed kites guide the departed souls back to life on November 1. As a link between life and death, they’re covered with special messages and designs to the deceased, written by the living.
Also unique to Guatemala is fiambre, a cheesy cold-meat-salad smorgasbord placed in altars to lure the dead back.
Guatemala’s best Día de los Muertos celebrations are held in the town of Santiago Sacatepéquez, outside of Antigua. Plenty of tourists pile in but, as in Pátzcuaro, celebrations are steeped in tradition, not tourism.
Continue the celebration of death with Graveyard Travel: How to Celebrate Life by Visiting the Dead and How People Celebrate Halloween in Spain.
Also, learn How to Make Sugar Skulls for Dia de los Muertos.
Photo: Rodrigo Basaure
Nowhere in Santiago feels more South American than La Vega. Wander the city centre streets with its uninspiring but earthquake-proof architecture and you feel you could be anywhere.
Not in La Vega.
Santiago’s main market, set in a shady part of town next to the murky Mapocho River, is gloriously, chaotically Latin American.
Photo: lo que percibo
Fruit and veg is piled high inside and out, sellers brag about the size of their plums, housewives are scolded for squeezing the fruit, and flies buzz around the vats of olives and hunks of cheese.
Foreigners may not enjoy the pigs’ heads that look out from the butchers’ stalls, but the stray cats and dogs sure do.
Dirty and oppressively busy at the weekend it may be, but I love it.
Barely more than a single street, Barrio Lastarria is home to a fine collection of bars and restaurants frequented by people who wear designer glasses and black polo necks.
There’s a decent art-house cinema, a museum, a theatre, a tiny park, several boutiques, and a book and antique market at the weekends. You might also catch a glimpse of the man in a skirt and headscarf who sells doll heads from a blanket.
However, I like it best first thing in the morning. When the sun glints off the cobblestones and the terracotta walls of the Veracruz church and the smell of fresh bread wafts along the street, it couldn’t be lovelier.
I fell in love with this one the moment I saw it. Santiago is the capital of Nescafe-land, but this little shop sells and grinds beans from Brazil, Columbia, and Costa Rica. It’s worth ordering some for the smell alone (Costa Rican is the best).
Also on sale are herbs and spices, potions and powders, dried fruit, and baking ingredients.
Watch out for the old ladies with sharp elbows.
Not only because it reminds me of home and plays the best music in the whole city, but because Bar El Ático is a sanctuary from reggaeton and Latin American pop.
Indie as it comes, I found my people here. The Pixies, Radiohead, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah and the like sound all the better when you’ve not heard them played out for a while.
Two minutes from home is one of Santiago’s most popular ice cream parlours. It’s not my absolute favourite (you can read where is here), but the ice cream is darn good and it’s in a great spot.
My pick: chocolate and chili.
Photo: Diegosaurius Rex
Yes, once a goth, always a goth, but this is also the place to learn about Santiago’s culture and painful history.
It’s flower-filled and calm, albeit busy with families picnicking around the graves of loved ones at the weekend. I went on the nighttime tour for Revolver back in autumn and paid homage to folk legends Victor Jara and Violeta Parra.
Perfect for history buffs.
High on entertainment value, Mimo’s is an institution. It’s run by a crazy Argentinean named Miguel, and he really knows how to cut hair. Judging by his constant stream of conversation, he seems to know about a lot of other things as well.
He once spent many minutes telling me that the left side of my hair was like the sea and that the stubborn flick of hair above my right ear was the masculine part of my personality expressing itself.
Another time he refused to continue cutting until I’d promised to start a daily mantra that would harness my inner winner.
He often disappears for minutes at a time, returning with a violent sniff and talking ten to the dozen.
The salon itself is full of delightful misfits who smoke like chimneys and nod along to the deafening techno. They play songs that have lyrics in English like ‘suck me hard oh yeah’ and the resident Yorkshire terrier has a purple and green fringe.
As you leave, they all shout out, ‘¡Mira! ¡Que linnnnnnnnda!’ It really is the most marvellous place.
By night, Pio Nono (Bellavista’s central street) is like an English wedding gone bad. Like us Brits, Chileans appear to have an amazing capacity for alcohol but no off switch.
But while Pio Nono is full of lurching drunks slopping Escudo over each other, two minutes away on Constitución civilised dining goes on in expensive restaurants.
Bellavista’s as chaotic as Soho, with live folk venues fighting for space alongside neon-lit clubs, hot dog joints, and salsa hangouts.
Photo: garchauro
During the day, it’s great for graffiti spotting. If you’re lucky, you might catch an old crooner singing ballads on the stage behind the Feria at the weekend.
You just don’t get cinemas like this anymore in England. Independent films in a quirky space that often has design fairs, gigs, and club nights too.
Stupidly expensive and only open for a few months of the year, but by god what a view. Surrounded by the Andes and jaw-dropping vistas of the city on clear days…I’d go every day if I could.
So, those are my favourite places in Santiago. What are yours?
Trips wants to hear your favorite spots from wherever in the world you call home. Compile your list and send it to hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com.
Photo: William A. Franklin
[Editor's note: This post is sponsored by our friends at REI.]
Last winter a pair of blizzards came through Seattle one right after the other. Since nobody could get to work, everyone in our neighborhood seemed to gravitate toward Green Lake. People brought their families on sleds and cross country skis. They let their dogs off the leash. Kids built trails and jumps. I strapped on my snowboard and carved a few turns down 80th St.
For that short time it was like everyone was having spontaneous adventures. All you had to do was go outside. It was one of the best moments we’ve had so far as a family.
Normally though, once you have kids, it usually takes a lot work and planning to get everyone “out there.” With babies and toddlers especially, all the extra preparation and gear can make a trip seem more difficult than it’s worth.
Once you’re there though, seeing your kids excited about the outdoors, watching them play in the snow or see new wildlife for the first time, you remember: it’s always worth it.
Photo: Josephers
The following 8 winter adventures cover a broad geography. They can either be set up as destinations in and of themselves, or simply used as ideas / inspiration for adventures if you have access to similar terrain nearby.
Overall they’re meant to get people started on adventures not just for fun, but as ways to build skills which, as you progress, will allow deeper and more exciting access to wilderness over time.
Remember to stay safe, warm, hydrated, and don’t let not having all the gear stop you from a new adventure or activity. It’s easy and surprisingly affordable to just rent extra gear at REI or a local gear shop.
Snowshoeing is the easiest way to get off-trail and have the woods to yourself, even when you pull into a popular recreation area with a full parking lot.
My family and I love snowshoeing in the Front Range of Colorado (basically any National Forest Area along the Peak to Peak Hwy). Part of it is because of the quality of the snow itself. It’s so light and fluffy it feels like you’re walking through clouds.
Tips: Don’t forget to bring goggles (winds can kick up anytime); pack a thermos full of hot chocolate; always bring a map and compass and /or GPS. Sudden snowstorms can bury your tracks — don’t rely on them alone to make it back. Stay on marked trails until you’re familiar with an area. Here’s a great article on snowshoeing tips.
After the wet season ends in November, winter months are the ideal time for exploring Everglades National Park.
Families with school-age children might consider renting or bringing a canoe for a backcountry adventure through water trails. This allows you to explore the mangrove tunnels, bright sawgrass prairies, and coastlines, then camp at night on safe, elevated platforms.
If this sounds like something you need to transition into, or if you have young kids, there are plenty of other options including dry-land camping, hiking trails, and excellent guided wildlife tours by boat. When we went there were a pair of dolphins surfing the boat wake, launching four and five feet out of the water.
Check out the paddling vid at right for a solid 3-minute guide to paddling with kids. There’s also a good link for camping by water here.
Early winter is actually one of the most overlooked times for exploring and camping in the Southeastern U.S. There are no insects, the forest floor is still piled with heavy, sweet-smelling leaf cover, and you’ll have trails, campgrounds, and shelters (along the Appalachian Trail) to yourself.
Temperatures in the day can be surprisingly mild, but if you’re camping, make sure everyone in your crew has a really good winter sleeping bag and that you’re in solid tents.
Photo: OakleyOriginals
A good introductory option, or option for families with young children, would be car-camping in places such as Linville Gorge, or basing your adventure around day hikes, but sleeping at night in a cabin such as Peaks of Otter Lodge in Virginia.
If your family already has experience hiking and camping together, the next step is a backpacking adventure. My favorite choice in the Eastern U.S. is Linville Gorge. A less strenuous option (the trails into the gorge are extremely steep) would be backpacking along the Chatooga River trail.
Winter hiking, and especially camping, really centers around staying warm and comfortable. Even if you’re not camping, simply hiking with a lightweight stove and cookset, so you can quickly boil up some hot chocolate in the middle of a hike, makes a huge difference. Overall, if planned and done well, winter exploration in this part of world can the give you and your family a total sense of accomplishment, of working together as a team.
In many ways, bicycling with your kids is the single easiest way to get them excited about the outdoors. One reason is simply the amount of great gear that allows you to transition your kids from passengers to riders, to let them essentially grow up on a bike. A second is that you can have lots of adventures riding right at home, exploring the city or surrounding areas, seeing them in new ways. After everyone feels comfortable having ‘trained’ locally, you can then, as a family, plan special rides everyone can look forward to.
Photo: MoBikeFed
Where my parents live in Florida is a recently opened Legacy Trail. It’s a little over a dozen miles with several rest stops (parking, shade, bathroom facilities) along the way. This is part of the Rails to Trails Conservancy, a nationwide network of trails created from former rail lines.
As the rail lines were exceptionally flat and straight, they make fantastic family bike rides, often passing through wilderness corridors in unexpected places, often just on the edge of major urban areas. Some trails pass over long trestles or traverse deep tunnels (bring a headlamp). Your kids will be stoked. Click here here for trails around the country.
Bouldering is another easy and inexpensive way to get the whole family fired up about exploring outside in the winter. Gear requirements are really only climbing shoes, a chalk bag, and a crash pad.
Even with winter temperatures, as long as it’s a dry day, you can still get good bouldering all around the country. Stone Crusade details spots nationwide. If your family really gets into it, a natural progression would be to plan out a trip to a classic spot like Hueco Tanks.
This is the winter family classic. Just get an innertube and/or other sliding craft — boards, skis, sleds — find a good sliding hill, and go for it.
Some ski areas like The Summit at Snoqualmie have tubing areas set up with rentals and perfect terrain. But probably the most fun of all is just finding your own local hill.
Photo: lepiaf.geo
This is also a gentle way to introduce snow and sliding sports to really young children, even babies. The only real problem is keeping babies’ hands warm. Suits like these, with overflaps that cover hands and feet, work really well with a breathable shell and pants (or snowsuit) over top.
Becoming a “ski-family” gives you a lifelong activity to center trips around during the winter. The key is for everyone to have a good experience. Budget and time depending, there are two different options.
The first is starting small, finding your closest hill, then progressing from there. If you don’t live near skiable terrain, this doesn’t have to begin with a big trip to the Rockies. There are a surprising number of small local ski areas all over the country, from Wisconsin to New York to Georgia. Try out the place closest to you this winter and see how it goes, then progress from there.
Or, if you’re ready for everyone to get stoked (and spoiled) right away on incredible terrain and winter conditions, head towards the center of the country, to one of the major ski areas such as Keystone or Steamboat.
For people ready to follow fresh snow in different places around the country, check out this free REI Snow Report iPhone App, which makes it easy to check snow conditions, the weather, and lift status at up to 12 of your favorite resorts.
Photo: Tara Kelly Photography
Hut trips are probably the single most fun kind of winter trip. There’s just something incredibly satisfying about not going to a parking lot at the end of the day, but continuing staying out in the wilderness.
Huts enable you to do this comfortably and safely with the whole family in the winter.
There are various hut trips you can set up around the country, but for those looking for a great ‘out of the box’ winter adventure, this hut to hut trip in the White Mountains is among the most affordable ($300 per person for 3 days, 2 nights food / lodging + all equipment) for people who don’t already have equipment and live close to hut systems.
REI has an extensive catalog of winter adventures definitely worth checking out.
For more on getting your family fired up this winter, please check out the 10 Fundamentals when Packing for a Fun Family Ski Trip.
Photo: mattwi1s0n
There are believers, there are skeptics, and there are those who just need a little more proof. If you fall into the third category, why wait for someone else to convince you that ghosts really do exist?
Ghostbusting isn’t just for Bill Murray and Dan Akroyd. This is a real profession which many investigators take very seriously. One of them is Loyd Auerbach, parapsychologist and Director of the Office of Paranormal Investigations.
Loyd took some time to chat with Matador’s Juli Huang to dispel some common misconceptions about ghost hunting, so before you go off on your own, make sure you read her piece Ghostbusting 101: 6 Myths Debunked by Loyd Auerbach and also Loyd’s website Mindreader.com.
To help you in your quest to seek the truth, I’ve gathered up five haunted locations in the U.S. that you can visit.
So, turn the lights off, light a few candles, and read on.
Location: San Mateo County, California
Photo: schommsen
Legend: Over 70 years ago, a young woman met and fell in love with a pianist who played at the bar which is now the Moss Beach Distillery.
Although she was married with a young child, she made regular visits to the restaurant to be with her lover. It is said she was killed by her enraged husband when he found out about the affair.
She has been dubbed “The Blue Lady” because of her attire and now roams around in a torn and bloody blue dress, although recent sightings have her in clean black cocktail dresses. According to Loyd Auerbach, she has revealed her real name as Elizabeth Claire Donovan, but prefers to be called Cayte (and specifically spelled this way).
Besides showing herself, physical events such as swinging lamps, moving glassware, anomalous magnetic fields, and fluctuating temperatures have been observed during investigations. Employees also bear witness to strange events such as books flying off of shelves by themselves and the feeling of a presence.
Location: Banta (Tracy), California
Legend: The Banta Inn has a storied history. Originally built as a saloon and inn by reputed outlaw Frank Gallegos, it later served as a bordello. The building was destroyed in 1937 by fire, but was rebuilt using some of the original timber.
According to reports, two people died in the fire, and they may play a part in the mysterious goings-on in the Inn today, like objects flying around and the appearance of shadow people.
The most persistant ghost, though, is that of Tony Gurkan. Tony was the husband of Jenny, Frank Gallegos’s youngest daugther, and the couple owned the bar in the 60s. In 1968, Tony suffered a heart attack behind the bar and died instantly. It was a known habit of Tony to leave the cash drawer open with neatly stacked coins.
After his death, sometimes when a bartender blindly tossed coins into the drawer and slammed it shut, he would look again to see the drawer open with the coins stacked neatly.
Sightings of Tony playing poker by himself in the corner — a habit he had when he was alive — have also been reported by staff and patrons. One thing that Loyd Auerbach witnessed himself — and which shows Tony must have a sense of humour — was the jukebox playing “Spirits in the Material World” by The Police.
The Myrtles Plantation / Photo: Corey Ann
Thing is, when Loyd had a closer look at the jukebox, he saw that it wasn’t plugged in.You can read more about Tony’s antics at the Banta Inn here.
Location: St. Francisville, Louisiana
Legend: The Myrtles Plantation has long been considered one of America’s most haunted places. Built in 1794, legend has it that at least 10 murders occurred there. More recent investigation has found proof that only one actually did — William Winter in 1871.
However, this is not to say that the property has not seen its fair share of death. Many of the past residents died of various causes, including Ruffin Grey Stirling — who was responsible for doubling the size of the original house — from “consumption.”
Although many of the legends that have made the property famous were ultimately found to be untrue, there is a consensus that the Myrtles Plantation is indeed haunted by restless spirits.
In 1987, a ghost of an elderly lady in a green turban was seen (and later photographed), children have been seen playing in the hallways and rooms, and a young girl was witnessed floating in front of the games room window, cupping her hands to her eyes to peer inside.
For a detailed history of the property and its hauntings, read this article at prairieghosts.com.
Location: Okawville, Illinois
Legend: Like any good haunting, the Original Springs Hotel — built around mineral hot springs which have been used to cure all sorts of maladies — has been rocked by a history of death. Suicides, accidents, and illnesses have all claimed lives and it’s thought that these spirits still wander the property.
There have been reports of hearing strange whisperings, cold spots in bed, footsteps in the hallways, and presences felt to be watching. Most staff fear the second floor of the older wing after nightfall, at times hearing rumblings from locked, unused guestrooms.
Perhaps the strangest of all is the “woman in white” who has been seen wandering about and walking through closed doors.
Location: Long Beach, California
Legend: The Queen Mary — ironically nicknamed “The Grey Ghost” during its service at sea — is perma-docked these days as a hotel and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
Photo: jarvisphoto6
But between 1937 and 1967 it served as a transport ship during the war and also as a luxury liner. During its service, the ship witnessed 49 deaths on board (to various reasons).
Additionally, in 1942 the Queen Mary rammed into one of its escorts as it attempted to outmaneuver enemy ships. It left over 300 people in its wake to be eaten by sharks or die drowning, as it was under orders not to stop.
This ship is no stranger to death, and it is certainly no stranger to ghosts. Some of the apparitions said to haunt the ship are:
* John Henry, who was crushed to death trying to flee a fire. Today, knocks and bright lights have been seen near engine room 13 where he died.
* A little girl who broke her neck when the ship was rocked by a big wave while she was horsing around. She can be seen around the pool looking for her mommy or doll.
* The drowned victims from the crash. Sometimes strange pounding noises can be heard which are said to be them desperate to get on board.
Have you ever seen an apparition? Do you even believe in ghosts?
Tell us your stories below!
If any of those are on your mind, or if you have others, make sure you drop her a line.
Felicia says she is most liberated, happy, and in her element when she’s out there, on the road. She dislikes tour groups and counts being invited to a prayer session and lunch with a Tibetan family as one of her most memorable travel experiences.
More on Felicia:
Quote: The daily humdrum is mere existence. Travel is LIFE. — Me.
Tunes I rock out to: I love Latino rhythms, and have been wanting to learn the salsa since forever. Jazz, blues, big band, Broadway, acoustic, alternative, reggae, world… I have everything from Aerosmith to Youssou N’Dour on my iPod, and lots more in between – including Thai pop songs and African drum beats.
Languages spoken, other than English: French, Chinese: Mandarin, Cantonese
Who I’d like to meet on my travels: Anyone and everyone. Love ‘em or hate ‘em, it adds to the experience.
In Felicia’s opinion, “traveling is the best form of education – it taught me resourcefulness, resilience, courage, self-discovery and encouraged the broadening of my mind to consider new perspectives and possibilities.
Photo: lamaK
It has taught me that diversity is a way of life, and there should not be room for discrimination in this globalised world today.”
To get in touch with her, visit her Matador profile. Don’t be shy, add her to your network and fire questions her way.
If you’d like to read about some of her travels, check out her blog at Travelpod, The Americas 2008: Rob & Felicia on a llama-eating sojourn.
Felicia shares some tips on penny pinching in her article Singapore on a Shoestring Budget.
And she’s also authored the very popular 10 Steps to Becoming Fluent in a Language in 6 Months or Less.
Photo: ljgolden
Grab Matador’s Free Report 15 Publications That Pay For Travel Photography and help accelerate your career as a photographer.
The photo above was submitted to the new Matador Photography group at Flickr. If you have a shot that you think belongs on these pages, join the group and post it in this discussion.
You don’t have to be a Flickr user to submit a photo for Wordless Wanderlust. Feel free to email one of us at carlo[at]matadornetwork[dot]com or hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com.
Be on the lookout for more of these in the coming weeks from the Matador Community.
On Zanzibar, you find an intriguing fusion of Portuguese, Arab, Indian, and East African customs, culture, and architecture. What draws most tourists, however, are the white-sand beaches and some of the best snorkeling in the world.
These pictures offer only a glimpse of the diversity that exists on the island but are representative of what a typical traveler might experience during a day on Zanzibar. Find more images on my website, www.gregorrohrig.com.
1. Traditional Arab vessels called “dhow” sail across the reef off the eastern coast of Zanzibar.
2. Herds of cattle come to drink from the salty ocean, as fresh water is a scarce commodity on the island.
3. Traditional dhow fishing boats are anchored along the shoreline.
4. The Azanzi Beach Resort is designed to blend into the natural environment, although the structure does remind me a little of the Sydney Opera House.
5. A shop in Stone Town (the old district of the island’s capital) selling old signs and decorated with pictures of former and current presidents and dictators. Obama is a popular icon in Zanzibar; his picture can be found everywhere in the city.
6. The meat market is a crowded place with a powerful smell. Taking pictures in this environment was difficult, and my camera was not always welcomed.
7. A variety of marine animals (including a moray eel) are auctioned off inside the fish market. Notice the variety of hats and caps worn.
8. The High Court of Zanzibar, a beautiful yet dilapidated building (as most here are), is still used for official proceedings.
9. Kids sitting in the doorway of the former residence of the infamous Arab trader known as Tipu Tip.
10. A group of kids help push a wagon stacked with sugarcane through the narrow alleyways of Stone Town.
11. Fishermen unpack their daily catch at Stone Town’s harbour.
12. Fresh fish are for sale at the harbour. Sting ray seems to be a popular alternative.
13. A woman, dressed according to local Muslim custom, sits in front of her home watching people pass by.
14. Slave trade memorial — from 1811 to 1873, a slave market existed in Stone Town. It was the hub of the slave trade for all of East Africa, and more than one million souls were bought and sold during that time.
15. You can see why the dhow is such an iconic feature of Zanzibar.
Grab Matador’s Free Report 15 Publications That Pay For Travel Photography and help accelerate your career as a photographer.
For more images from Africa, check out Photo Essay: Ethiopia.
Photo: douglemoine
Dirtbagging is travel stripped down to its essentials. All you need is a tent, a backpack, and your favorite pair of boots. Learn to scrape by on less by scoring free campsites and taking advantage of no-cost sights like natural hot springs and hiking/biking trails.
With more public lands than any other U.S. region and loads of fee-less recreation areas and wild scenery, the West was made for all species of dirtbaggers — mountain bikers, climbers, kayakers…whatever turns you on.
Here are 5 destinations that are better than the rest:
Hiking the Wind River Range / Photo: douglemoine
The dirtbag friendliest city in the Western U.S., Lander is located in the Wind River Range in Wyoming, south of Yellowstone National Park and the Tetons. There’s rock climbing at Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon and amazing hiking and backpacking in the Winds.
Free camping can be found in Lander City Park just blocks from Main Street. For cheap drinks, head to the Lander Bar at happy hour, 5-6pm Monday through Friday. Take your brew outside and enjoy a Hungry Hippie (yummy pita featuring avocado and melted swiss) on the patio.
Downtown, the Maverick Motel serves $3.95 breakfast specials, $0.99 coffee, and pancakes twice the size of your head.
Photo: tornatore
Bishop is well known in climbing circles for its world-class bouldering on both granite (Buttermilk Boulders) and volcanic tuff (Happy Boulders). Often overlooked, the Owens River Gorge also has some incredible sport lines.
For those seeking some geothermal activity, plenty of hippie pots grace the side of Highway 395. The area gets a good rep for mountain biking too, but the sand and Sierra “moon dust” — a product of the eroded volcanic rock — can easily spoil a ride.
Buttermilk Country, Clark Canyon, and the Pines have free camping. With better facilities (like toilets), “the Pit” charges $2 per vehicle per night and has easy access to water and more opportunities to meet fellow travelers — not to mention a generous 60-day stay limit.
On a rest day, chill at the Looney Bean on Main, browse the books at the Inyo County Library, and shower up at Keough Hot Springs.
From this Western Colorado town, grab your mountain bike and head to Red Hill Recreation Area or wander through the Maroon Bells/Snowmass Wilderness Area.
You can kayak the Colorado and Crystal Rivers and then relax with a soak in Penny Hot Springs, a natural springs in the Crystal River.
The Carbondale area also makes a great base camp for climbers.
Romancing the pass / Photo: justalexanders
The limestone crags of Rifle Mountain Park, Independence Pass bouldering and climbing areas, and the riverside Redstone Boulders are all an easy drive from town.
There’s plenty of free camping on the BLM land just south of Carbondale — take the Prince Creek Road until the pavement ends and pick your spot. Several more developed, fee campgrounds can be found in White River National Forest.
Grab a killer breakfast at the Village Smithy and live music and a cheap pint of Fat Tire at White House Pizza. The Novel Tea Shop on Main Street has plenty of tent reading material, and the Carbondale Community Food Co-op can set you up with local produce.
Elko is located just off I-80 near the halfway between Reno and Salt Lake City and is home to a burgeoning outdoors community. It’s practically surrounded by recreation areas, including the Ruby Mountains, affectionately known as the Alps of Nevada.
Photo: adie reed
Cedar Creek Clothing in downtown Elko is a good place to pick up a guidebook on the region and get trail recommendations.
Lamoille Canyon — the Rubys’ most stunning valley — has challenging and scenic mountain biking, rock climbing, backpacking, and backcountry skiing.
Serious off-road, route-finding adventure can be had by trekking out to one of the primitive hot springs in the area.
Find free camping along the creek just down-canyon from the forest service campground and along the dirt road heading to Camp Lamoille. For beers and a taste of the local cowboy culture, stop by O’Carrolls in the tiny village of Lamoille.
Moab still deserves a spot on the list, though perhaps not for long.
Photo: Tim Brink
This corner of southeastern Utah is world famous for its slickrock mountain bike trails, endless hiking and backpacking opportunities, and sandstone climbing, but also for its ever-increasing summer crowds.
Free camping is slowly being pushed farther from Moab proper, but primitive options still exist near Onion Creek, Kane Creek Canyon, Indian Creek, and off the road to the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park.
With the closure of the legendary Matrimony Springs, dirtbaggers looking for a free water fill-up should go to the GearHeads store in downtown Moab. Outside, water is scarce and the air is dry, so make sure to carry at least a gallon per person per day.
For nighttime hydration, grab a growler of Black Raven Stout from the Moab Brewery before heading out to the BLM land to set up camp. Organic and local foods are sold at the Moonflower Market; for a good book, the Edward Abbey collection at Back of Beyond Books is worth a browse.
Check out our picks for Top 15 Adventure Towns Worldwide.
