Photo: NeilsPhotography

1. Ericeira: Portugal’s Surf Mecca

“The Portuguese fishing village of Ericeira harbours a secret, or — depending on how fussy you are — about 11 world-class secrets.”

2. Trekking Central Laos

“The 2-day trek through the rugged limestone mountains of Khammuan Province features magnificent scenery, lovely villages, and lots of refreshing swimming holes.”

3. Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit. Backwards.

“Colored lakes, hot springs, flamingo flocks, geysers, crazy rock formations, painted volcanoes. This and more awaits you in Bolivia’s wild southwest.”

4. Trans Siberian Sidetrips: How to Break Your Train Ride

“OK. You’ve decided you want to take the world’s longest and most famous train ride. But aside from playing cards, drinking tea (ahem, vodka), and eating noodles on the train, what are you going to do? Unless you really have to be somewhere, I highly recommend at least a few stops along the journey.”

5. Detroit Is for Lovers

“Detroit gets a lot of negative press, but despite its bad rap, the city has a lot to offer. Give it some love and it’ll love you back.”

6. Discover Your Own Machu Picchu: Choquequirao, Peru

“Did you visit Machu Picchu thinking you’d arrived 50 years too late? Wish you could’ve seen it before the tourist hordes and luxury hotel moved in? Then Choquequirao might be for you.”

Photo: Sotti

7. How to Travel to Socotra Island, Yemen

“Somewhere between 189 and 217 nautical miles off the coast of Yemen (depending on your source of information), like a tiny, glittering tongue-stud in the gaping maw of the Gulf of Aden, lies the legendary island of Socotra (Suquṭra), ancient source of ambergris, dragon’s blood, frankincense, and myrrh.”

8. The Great Ocean Walk: Victoria’s Coastal Hike

“Yes, driving the Great Ocean Road is nice. But walking the coastline is a much deeper experience.”

9. Guide to the Redwood Groves: Where to Find the Tallest Trees on Earth

“Taller than a football field. Older than Jesus. There are only a handful of places on Earth where living things fit these descriptions.”

10. In Jordan, Forget Lonely Planet. Bring a Bible.

“If you’re interested in traveling to the Middle East but aren’t sure where to begin, be like the Pope: kick-start your trip through the holy land in Jordan. With its welcoming people, small size, and manageable number of sacred sites, Jordan is the place to go biblical.”

Community Connection

When you need the lowdown on a destination, check in with Matador’s team of destination experts.

Photo: westerndave

1. Bridger Bowl, Montana

Located near the college town of Bozeman, Bridger Bowl gets 350 inches of glorious powder each year, and it’s status as a nonprofit community ski area means above-average conditions for below-average prices.

The cat’s out, so on the best days the lifts can get busy. But that’s not what you’re here for. Bridger’s best is on the “Ridge,” 1,800 vertical feet of rock-wall chutes and hidden powder bowls where you (and your riding buddy, your avalanche beacons, your shovels and probes, and your Powerbars) can enjoy a little peace and quiet.

Or, if quiet isn’t your style, you can scream like a schoolgirl as you careen down near-vertical angles.

To hit the Ridge, you must first check in with ski patrol — they won’t let you through without proper avalanche gear and a good dose of common sense. Knowledge of the terrain and expert-level ability are recommended, as the Ridge has no hazard markings, plenty of steep, and epic snowfields that end equally epically in unmarked cliffs.

Keep in mind, the best terrain on the mountain is still accessed the old-fashioned way — on foot. Once you reach the Ridge, traverse either direction to Bridger Gully or The Nose and don’t even think about changing your mind. There’s no easy way down, and getting stuck on something you’re not prepared for isn’t fun.

2. Grand Targhee, Wyoming

Photo: skidrd

Just a few miles from the Idaho border lies Grand Targhee, a small resort at the end of a winding road on the west side of the Tetons. Accessible only through the town of Driggs, Targhee is isolated enough to stay out of the headlines despite killer conditions.

While Jackson Hole gets all the Wyoming glory (not to mention the furry-booted tourists), Grand Targhee quietly gets all the snow: 500 annual inches!

There’s not much expert terrain on the mountain, but all that snow transforms the landscape into a challenging and seemingly endless leg-burning powder stash.

One of the easiest ways to reach untracked snow at Grand Targhee is to head to Peaked Mountain to take advantage of the 1,000 acres of snowcat accessible riding/skiing. If you can’t swing that financially, try Mary’s Nipple (now referred to simply as “Mary’s,” for the kids’ sake) — just hoof it from the top of Dreamcatcher.

Warning: backside drops range from doable to death defying.

3. Jay Peak, Vermont

Thank the “Jay Cloud” for the copious amounts of snow that drop on Jay Peak each winter. Its 355 inches are just about the most ass-numbingly cold, straight-out-of-Canada snow you can find in the East.

Photo: 极博双板滑雪俱乐部

Jay is famous for its glade system, with trees that shield the slopes from gusty winds and make it possible to find surprise powder stashes long after a storm (good spots to look are Beaver Pond and other glades on the outskirts).

Advanced skiers and riders should check out Tuckerman’s Chute, a super steep and narrow, tree-lined, powder-filled funnel. Jay also has excellent backcountry, including the Dip, a wooded ride off the eastern edge of the ski area boundary. If you’ve never tried it, take along someone who has. The Dip leads back to the highway, but if you don’t know where to go, you’re in for a long hike out.

Jay was purchased by investors in 2008, who announced aggressive expansion plans. Can you say slopeside sushi, condo-mania, and giant overpriced sunglasses? Get here quick before the masses do. But remember to bring a jacket — they don’t call it the “Green Mountain Freezer” for nothing.

4. Powder Mountain, Utah

Often discussed as the next major resort in Utah, Powder Mountain is still overlooked and underestimated by road trippers hunting legendary Utah pow.

With over 7,000 skiable acres, “Pow Mow” is larger than Vail; its 500 annual inches ain’t too shabby either.

But thanks to the seven other high-profile resorts between it and Salt Lake City, the herds are effectively thinned out, leaving so much elbow room on the mountain that it’s not uncommon to go an entire day without crossing paths with another boarder.

Photo: jsmjr

There are only four chairlifts and three surface lifts, so get ready for alternative methods of uphill transport. In addition to the helicopter (yes!), Pow Mow has two snowcats that can take you up to areas like Lightning Ridge and its tree runs and bowls.

Or head up Hidden Lake Lift to the backside for a visit to Powder Country — 1,200 more acres of plunging fall lines, an obscene abundance of powder, and 1,800 vertical of tree-lined fun. When you’re finished, Powder Country ejects you onto an access road where Woody, your faithful bus driver since 1982, waits with a smile to take you back to the base lodge so you can do it all over again.

The buzz is definitely growing as skiers realize the mountain’s moniker is more than just a name. Loyalists fear the day Pow Mow becomes the next casualty of investor-ownership, but thankfully for you and me, that day is not today.

5. Mount Bohemia, Michigan

I know — great powder in Michigan?

In an area where crusty manmade snow and flat-as-roadkill terrain prevails, Mount Bohemia is a Midwest behemoth. Its 273 annual inches of dry lake-effect snow can remain untouched long after a storm rolls through, especially since it’s never groomed…ever!

The mountain stays uncrowded due to its remote location on the tip of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula — it’s convenient to nowhere. It’s got 71 runs, all but three rated black diamond or higher, and is absolutely no-frills.

Join the hardcore Midwesterners in the “Extreme Backcountry” area, which starts off slow but transforms into a raging mountain monster. Scout lines through cliffs (including an impressive 40-footer from the Horseshoe Chute), rock shelves, narrow chutes, and obstacles.

And the best part — the base lodge is a set of interconnected mushroom-like yurts!

Photo: Eve of Discovery

6. June Mountain, California

June Mountain is the “Best Kept Secret” of California. Just 20 miles past Mammoth Mountain, it’s worlds away from the touristy vibe next door.

With an average 250 annual inches and no shortage of sunshine-y days, June may have a shorter season, but I’ve personally logged more powder days here than on any other mountain — and we’re talking long after a storm. The sheltered runs and abundance of trees (none of its slopes are above treeline) hold onto powder significantly longer than they should.

Watch out for the crowds, though. On busy weekends, you might have to wait in line with four or five other smiling faces before hopping on the slow, creaky lift.

In-bounds offerings are limited for experts, but some of the best lift-accessed backcountry terrain in the area is found here. Personally though, on powder days it doesn’t get much better than leisurely cruising down a wide-open slope, cutting first tracks in the fresh while watching empty chair after empty chair pass overhead. (Dreamy sigh.)

Then, at the end of the day, you’ve got an obstacle-dodging steep final run down The Face. Don’t worry, your pansy friends can follow the easier cat track or even ride the lift.

And now I have to stop spilling secrets before someone hunts me down.

Community Connection

Trips wants to hear your suggestions for ski mountains we’ve never heard of. Test the knowledge of your fellow readers in the comments.

Also, make sure not to miss Riding the Recession: Best Budget North American Ski Resorts and our list of the Top 10 North American Resorts for Your 2009-2010 Ski Trip.

Or, for something completely different, check out Matador’s report on Mongolia’s first ski resort.

From “The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth” / Photo: Luca Galuzzi

1. The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth

The most popular piece in Trips history, with over half a million views and 140 comments, pulls together the eeriest and most eye-catching landscape shots from around the world. Many thanks to the Flickr photographers who permitted us to feature their copyrighted work.

2. Papua New Guinea

Contributor Taro Taylor profiles the firedancers of a Papua New Guinean tribe known as the Baining, including shots of landscapes that could certainly be considered “alien” in their own right.

3. 13 Places to Get Close to the EDGE

This essay seemed to stimulate vertigo in many commenters. One lucky reader nabbed a Laken water bottle for correctly naming the location of photo #3.

4. The Matador Photographers’ Animal Kingdom

As 2009 progressed, Matador became more active in the world of travel photography. One big development was the creation of the Matador Photography group at Flickr. The essay above is made up of member shots of animals from around the world.

Photo: Inti

5. One Day in Zanzibar

If you were to spend a day on the Tanzanian island of Zanzibar, this might be what you’d see. Of course, it’d be difficult to capture the images as masterfully as Gregor Rohrig does.

6. Exploring Morocco’s Pink City and Beyond

Matador editor-at-large Paul Sullivan uses his experience in writing and photographing two editions of the Hedonist’s Guide to Marrakech to take us on a tour of the fabled Pink City and surrounding mountains and coast.

7. Spectacular Waterfalls of the World

Waterfalls make for good photos, but it can be difficult to get a good shot — except when you’re shooting these cascades. Check out this collection of the best waterfall pics on the Web.

8. The Spirit Of Burma

Contributor Felice Willat captures some great images of the people and religious architecture of Myanmar (Burma) in this memorable essay.

9. 12 Lesser-Known Ruins of the World

We all know what Machu Picchu and Angkor Wat look like. But Khara-Khoto, Wat Phu, El Djem? This essay is for them.

10. Images from Istanbul

A collection of images from a city at the crossroads. If you can’t make it there in person, let Allison Grossman show you around.

Community Connection

Looking for a rundown of recent photography news at Matador? Check out Trips’ From the Eds: 1,000 Words.

Me and my Bike Friday in Albert Park, Melbourne

After spending the entirety of my Matador tenure stationary in Melbourne, it’s finally time for me to hit the road and do some traveling of my own. I’ve been inspired by the submissions we received from daring adventurers and wide-eyed wanderers over the past year. I hope I can tap into the energy, even a little.

My wife and I are changing tack a bit on our life and travel philosophy. Whereas before we were happy with the work-save-travel-work cycle, we’re going to try something different. This time around it’s open-ended. We have no idea when we’ll stop, and we have no idea where we’ll stop. We will attempt to be — and excuse the phrase — more organic.

We want to move with the flow, take opportunities as they arise, and experience places more than just moving through them.

We will sit still in some of our destinations. We will pick up work where and when we can. And we will just, well, live life. Not try to only “see” or “do” things. Just…live. Because this is it. This is life.

Hiking in the Pyranees

The gist

We do, however, have a few things planned (it’s just good sense). We depart Australia on January 10 and arrive a few days later in Cuba with our Bike Fridays. We don’t necessarily plan to “tour Cuba” by bicycle, but we will use our bikes to transport us around, as we see fit.

I’m especially looking forward to visiting my hometown of Vancouver, Canada in February. We’ll take in the Olympic Winter Games vibe and catch up with friends and family. It will be almost three years to the date since we left, so this will be a brand new experience for me. I’m anxious about it.

After that we’ll be moving south down the Pacific coast, and hope to meet some fellow Matadorians along the way, like our inimitable CEO, Ross Borden, in San Francisco. New York is on the radar where we’ll spend a month just hangin’ out. I’m really looking forward to meeting in person someone I consider a mentor of sorts, who’s been with me every step of the way during my foray into the writing universe — Matador’s managing editor Julie Schwietert.

If you’re somewhere along that path, drop me a line. Maybe we can meet up.

GR92 in Costa Brava, Spain

Next?

This is where things start to get hazy for us. We will fly to Europe (and visit my wife’s family in Germany somewhere in there), but that’s about all we know. The only other thing we know is that the road will eventually lead us back to Australia, to drive around in our camperized Delica, S.A.M.

Maybe that’s not so honest. We don’t actually know that. You can never really know anything, can you?

So if you’re wondering where I am over the next couple of months, there you have it. And speaking of that, I have to give a big muchas gracias, merci beaucoup, spaseeba bolshoy, and xie xie to Hal Amen for doing the job of two while I’m incommunicado.

It’s a big undertaking to bring you the best destination-based content on the web, but I also take comfort knowing he’ll have the support of the amazing Matador team.

Enjoy your holidays everyone — of course, responsibly. It’s the start of a new decade. Here’s to the one-ders.

Photo: Gustty

1. World’s Best Surf Spots for Beginners (And 5 You Should Avoid)

“These days learning to surf doesn’t have to be the fearful, difficult proposition it once was. Forgiving foam surfboards and qualified surf instructors mean standing up and riding a wave in your first session is very likely — and then you’re hooked. Read on for Matador’s list of the best surf spots to start your new addiction…”

2. Matador’s Top 7 Summer Road Trips in the US / Canada

“Summertime in the US and Canada is all about road tripping. Here are 7 of our favorites, some well known, others following country roads that only locals usually travel. All of them have plenty of room for improvisation.”

3. The Top 20 Microbreweries in America

“Twenty of the best microbrews America has to offer and the towns to drink them in.”

4. 9 Montana Backpacking Trips That Will Blow Your Mind

“From alpine tundra to lush valleys, hot springs to waterfalls, here is some of the most amazing terrain in the world and how you can get there.”

5. Go In Peace: Seven Asian War Destinations

“The 20th century was a time of brutal savagery in Asia. Warfare technology brought us Agent Orange, napalm, and the atomic bomb. And along with that, loss of human life on an enormous scale. The people of these countries haven’t forgotten their past ordeals and many sites have been erected to remind us of the horrors of war.”

Photo: linh.ngân

6. The World’s 15 Most Bike Friendly Cities

“Grab a helmet and check out these 15 pedal heavens, where drivers have actually been known to use all five fingers when they wave at you.”

7. Liberoachi, Voodoos, and Condiments: The World’s 10 Wackiest Museums

“So you’ve been to the Louvre and the Guggenheim and the MET. Bravo. Those are child’s play. If you want something truly unique and memorable, you have to check these out.”

8. World’s 8 Most Colorful Chinatowns

“Can’t be in China to ring in the Lunar New Year? Not to worry: there will be celebrations going on in Chinatowns worldwide.”

9. Matador’s Favorite Spots in Buenos Aires, Argentina

“Several members of the Matador team either are living or have lived in BsAs. These are their stories.”

10. 8 More Strange Places on Planet Earth

“You’ve walked the Great Wall, gazed upon the Pyramids of Giza, and scaled the Andes to Machu Picchu. What’s next? Earth is a mighty big place, and if you’re willing to strap on some snowshoes or trek through barren deserts, there’s a whole lot of strangeness left out there.”

Community Connection

Suspicious of lists? So are we. What did you make of LP’s Top 10 Destinations for 2010?

Photos courtesy of the Sydney Harbour Federation Trust

In the middle of Sydney Harbour is a tiny piece of rock called Cockatoo Island. There are none of these vociferous birds around today, but before 1788 they frequented the red gum trees that inhabited the island.

A couple of months ago I met with Liz from the Sydney Harbour Federation Trust, a federal government initiative set up to protect many of Sydney Harbour’s historic and natural sites. The Trust was kind enough to offer me a night on the island this New Year’s Eve to watch the world-famous Sydney fireworks. This trip was a recon mission.

Some history

The island was nothing like I imagined. I pictured green rolling hills and forest; something wild. It’s not. As we approached it on the Sydney ferry, I was surprised to see old industrial-looking buildings to my left. The rest of it was obscured by a big cliff facing us (the island was expanded from 13 to 18 hectares with the blasted rock).

This was my first glance at the island’s history. It was originally used as a prison and then as a reform school. A ship docked there was used to train wayward and orphaned boys, and eventually the shipyard expanded. In the early 1900s, Cockatoo Island became the Commonwealth Naval Dockyard and was the major shipbuilding and dockyard facility for the Southwest Pacific in WWII.

The structures — the old prisons, solitary confinement cells, warehouses, cranes, and homes — still stand and some are being restored to be used as accommodation. A 26-stop self-guided audio walking tour is available explaining in detail the island’s fascinating history of convicts, warships, and aboriginal occupation.

Modern Cockatoo Island

Cockatoo Island was only opened to the public recently. In fact, many Sydney residents won’t even have heard of it.

It’s been host to some pretty big events lately. Aside from the New Year’s Eve Fireworks (for which last year was the first time hosting guests for the event), the island was host to the Sydney Festival — 24 bands/4 stages, headlined by Nick Cave — in 2008.

Also in 2008, the island was one of the venues for the huge art exhibit, Biennale, which also used the vacuous, vacant buildings as backdrops. Biennale is set to return in 2010 from May to August.

And if all that isn’t cool enough, part of the Hugh Jackman movie, Wolverine, was filmed on location. Bits of the set still stand in one of the big warehouses. See if you can tell where the set ends and where the real building begins.

Staying on the island

These days most visitors are day-trippers, taking one of the regular ferries from Circular Quay in the morning and leaving in the afternoon. But one of the best things about the island is that it offers an urban camping option, right on the water.

At AUD $45/night you can pitch a tent and have sweeping views of the harbour at your doorstep. $75 will get you a camping package — no need to haul in your own gear. It includes a large tent, two sleeping mats, two chairs, and a lantern.

If you’re part of a large group of up to 10 people, you can rent out one of the renovated luxury heritage homes. The price per night ranges from AUD $300 to $450, depending on the season. Weekends are slightly more, but between 10 people that’s not too shabby a deal.

New Year’s Eve

Unfortunately, tickets for this year’s event on Cockatoo Island are all sold out. They close the island to the public on New Year’s Eve and allow a limited number of campers.

You’re not allowed to bring your own booze onto the island, but they are licensed so it can be bought there. The last of the barges to launch fireworks floats right near the island. Unobstructed, close-up views and a limited number of spectators is a good combination.

Pencil it in your calendar for next year. Tix go on sale around beginning of September.

But you don’t need a special reason to visit the island at any time of the year. If you’re in Sydney, pop over on the ferry and have a walk ’round. It’s a surprisingly fascinating and unique place.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

How are you going to be ringing in the new decade? Share below!

Photo: Jason Rezaian

One of the funnest things about editing Trips in 2009 has been connecting with destination experts from the Matador community. Nearly every week, we’ve introduced an expert on a different city, region, or country around the world.

Here’s a random, geographically diverse selection of five of them:

1. The Philippines – MichaLola

“Her goal as the Philippine travel expert is to shed light on her diverse, dynamic, and intriguing homeland made up of 7,107 islands. She aims to dispel the inaccurate stereotypes that have been attached to this nation and would be more than happy to provide tips, suggestions, and answer your every query and travel concern regarding the Philippines.”

2. Iran – Jason Rezaian

“I’m fortunate enough to be one of very few Americans able to travel freely to Iran. With that country dominating the headlines once again, there are so many misconceptions swirling around about it. I’d love to help clear some of them up. I assist journalists as well as private citizens in their travel plans for Iran, and I would love to answer any questions you may have.”

3. Antarctica – rico nico

“I’m flattering myself with the title of “expert,” but if anyone is curious about how you can get to Antarctica and be PAID for it, I’m happy to provide some useful suggestions.”

Photo: El Lobo

4. Spain – El Lobo

“Southern Spain, called Andalucía, is my specialty, as I guide cultural walking tours every summer in Sevilla, Granada, Córdoba, and the Alpujarras. I’ve lived, studied, worked, and traveled extensively in Galicia, Cataluña, Extremadura, Madrid, and the Cantabrian coast. I also spent two years living in Sevilla and Granada.”

5. Kenya – jonnyontheroad

“I lived in Kenya for two years as a Peace Corps Volunteer and traveled just about everywhere in the country. If you’re looking for trip or service ideas, let me know.”

Recently, in order to leverage the knowledge of our experts to an even greater extent, Trips began posting guides on “What NOT to Do” in various destinations. This series gives destination experts a chance to get candid, outlining the avoidable attractions in their region — and what to do instead.

Photo: ajari

1. What NOT to Do in Japan

Turner Wright advises you to stay out of the pachinko parlors.

2. What NOT to Do in Paris

The view from the Eiffel Tower isn’t worth the climb, according to Matt Scott.

3. What NOT to Do in Chile

Eileen Smith lays out which Santiago-based wine tours are good to go.

4. What NOT to Do in Egypt

Nick Rowlands explains how John Wayne, legs, and camel farts might fit into your Egypt itinerary.

5. What NOT to Do in Guadeloupe

If you’re headed to this virtually unknown Caribbean archipelago, Anna Brones has the info you need.

Community Connection

Matador’s destination experts are just one resource in our vibrant travel community. Sign up today and discover the rest.

Hiking to wolf #9’s den, Lamar Valley / Photo: aperturegirl

[Editor's Note: This post is sponsored by our friends at the State of Montana.]

Wolf mating season is nigh in Yellowstone National Park. As the Druid pack descends on a herd of elk for a kill, an interloper, a lone wolf trying to ingratiate himself with the pack, waves his tail playfully, like a flag, to win the graces of potential mates. The alpha male moves to drive him off. The elk herd splits like two schools of fish. For now, the wolves stay hungry on the frozen volcanic slope.

Meanwhile, the remnant human population in the park is more welcoming to newcomers. Beginning in mid-December, snow coaches — motorized over-snow vehicles — ferry human visitors through the valleys and over the plateaus of the country’s oldest national park to the Old Faithful Snow Lodge.

Along the way, naturalists, park rangers, and concessionaires help visitors in their quest to witness wildlife in action — without the cars and crowds of summer.

Photo: emerald isle druid

Meeting Yellowstone’s wolves

“Food for the Masses” is the name of a wolf-watching experience organized by the Yellowstone Association Institute, with headquarters located on Park Street in Gardiner, Montana — the gateway to the national park headquarters at Mammoth Hot Springs, some five miles up Grand Loop Road.

The Lamar Valley’s historic Buffalo Ranch, in the remote northeast corner of the park, where wolves were first reintroduced in 1995, is the hub for wolf watching in Yellowstone.

But the park’s north entrance is the first step to a winter wonderland with a wild twist. A change is felt simply passing through the historic Roosevelt Arch, most recently featured in the Ken Burns’ documentary, The National Parks: America’s Best Idea.

“Students go to the sites of wolf kills to count scavengers on the kill,” said Chuck Snover with the Yellowstone Association Institute. Finding the hollowed-out carcass of an elk brought down by wolves, then finished up by ravens and other critters, is not an uncommon experience in the company of a naturalist.

“The way it was opened up like a clam shell … that was incredible,” said Andrew Suk, a student warming up at the Lamar Ranger Station after visiting an elk carcass during a week-long program based out of Buffalo Ranch, which is operated by the institute.

Photo: Author

Nathan Varley, who led Suk and his group to view wolves in early December, is co-owner of The Wild Side Wildlife Tours, together with his wife Linda Thurston. Food for the Masses and other programs provide an opportunity for visitors to the park to participate in the science of the park’s wolf recovery project.

“Mainly it’s about learning and trying to view the wolves,” said Varley, 41, who was raised in the park, and has a PhD in wolf ecology. The main winter drama, he said, is watching males trying to assimilate prior to mating season.

Despite the remoteness, short days, and inhospitable weather of the Lamar Valley in winter, even visitors from the concrete jungle will find an unexpected coziness with the experience of a guided winter safari tour — especially if one is wearing heavily insulated clothing.

More than wolves

Aside from the black wolves of the Druid pack, there is also the possibility of spotting bighorn sheep. What is almost assured, even on the snowiest day, is a good look at the herds of elk and bison ranging in the valleys and volcanic plateaus of the park.

Photo: exquisitur

But don’t forget binoculars. The action is fleeting, and proper etiquette for those without a spotting scope is to wait, as patiently as possible, for a more prepared visitor to offer use of his or her equipment.

It’s also possible to pop into the park for a solo winter wildlife glimpse — on snowshoes or cross-country skis, for example. But whatever your means of conveyance, considering the drive required to reach Yellowstone, it’s worth committing a few days to the experience.

Practicalities

Gardiner is 56 miles south of Livingston on Interstate 90, 77 miles from Bozeman and 129 miles from Billings.

Tours can be arranged through various guide services in the area, but the easiest way to get the low-down on wolves and other wildlife is to make a stop at the Yellowstone Association Institute headquarters by the Roosevelt Arch in Gardiner, five miles from Yellowstone National Park Headquarters at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Be sure to fortify beforehand with a meal at the Town Café, to the left of the t-intersection where State Highway 89 meets Park Street. (The Yellowstone Association and the Roosevelt Arch are to the right.)

The café is a popular local watering hole and a good place to bend the ear of a naturalist who might help enrich your visit. Afterwards, when you’re ready to brag about wolf sightings, try the Rusty Nail at the Best Western in Gardiner.

If winter driving doesn’t suit, grab a couple of friends and take the Greyhound to Livingston. The trip to the Lamar Valley is accessible even for bus travelers. Amazing Taxi owner, Carrie Pintar, can take up to seven passengers and is willing to negotiate a round-trip shuttle price to Gardiner or Mammoth. Her number is 406-223-5344.

Community Connection

Matador’s Montana resource page is a key stop for travelers planning a winter trip to the Big Sky State. You can also get answers to specific questions by contacting our knowledgeable Montana destination experts, just one of many features that make the Matador community such a vibrant place.

Photo: Libertinus

1. Don’t… think Montevideo will be Buenos Aires

Much like Santiago de Chile, Uruguay’s capital city is close to Buenos Aires (actually much closer at 145 miles) but is also worlds apart.

Buenos Aires has been called South America’s Paris, but Montevideo doesn’t approach that scene…nor want to.

Do… enjoy the capital’s tranquilidad

You might first notice it when a car stops to let you cross the street.

Ask any Montevideo local to describe their city, and you’ll get the standard: “tranquilo.” Anthony Bourdain said it the best:

Montevideo is like BA…without the LA.

2. Don’t… stick with coffee

There are restaurants and bars serving quality coffee in Montevideo — even the McDonald’s has a separate café inside its Ciudad Vieja (Old City) location.

But if you don’t explore beyond the Western Hemisphere’s hot beverage of choice, you’re going to miss out on something special.

Do… drink mate

Tasting like a super-strong green tea, mate in Uruguay is more than a drink. It’s a way of life. People commonly walk the streets of Uruguay with a thermos full of hot water, sipping from their gourd.

Sharing mate is a ritual that can last hours and provides an excellent opportunity to get in with the local culture at ground level.

Warning: Although in other countries it might be tolerated, DO NOT move around the bombilla (metal straw) while drinking.

3. Don’t… expect diversified cuisine

Uruguayans are a conservative people who don’t seek out change. They stick to tradition and to what they know — and that holds true when it comes to food.

Photo above and feature: Vince Alongi

Do… feast at an asado

As with many events in Uruguay, asados (barbeques) are a prolonged production. But the rewards are great: relaxed times with friends, slowly (very slowly) cooked meat impossible to stop eating, and another view into Uruguay’s traditions and culture.

Don’t plan on stopping by an asado for an hour — it requires at least four. Send out an email to the very active Couchsurfing Uruguay group to see if they can organize one for your visit.

Other recommendations: empanadas and beef, of course. And don’t pass over chivitos — essentially a steak burger garnished (somewhat) creatively at times. Ask for the chivito canadiense, which comes with onions, egg, olives, pickles, and sometimes bacon.

4. Don’t… be satisfied with Punta del Este

This is Uruguay’s most famous beach town, catering to the rich, the famous, the tourist, and the backpacker at the same time. It’s rowdy during summertime when it fills with Argentines and Brazilians.

Clubs, beaches (including stretches with names like Bikini Beach), and overflowing restaurants make the months between December and March una locura.

Photo: Vince Alongi

Do… check out Uruguay’s other beaches

Keep traveling east and check out Punta del Diablo for a small fishing village environment with a few surfing beaches thrown in.

Again, be prepared for the crowds in summer, but with more of a backpacker vibe.

5. Don’t… go to Uruguay to save money

Compared to the States, Uruguay is still a bargain. But matched with other South American countries that doesn’t hold. You’re better off saving the dough traveling around places like Peru or Bolivia.

Do… feel safe

Barely trailing Asunción (Paraguay) and Santiago (Chile), Montevideo was recently ranked the third-safest city on the continent by the Mercer consulting firm.

6. Don’t… go looking for modern music

Again, in many ways, Uruguay can seem to exist in a time warp. This goes for the majority of the music you’ll hear throughout the country, whether on the radio in a cab or on the dance floor (indeed, it seems to be a regional phenomenon).

Do… prepare for your 80s fix

No joke — Uruguay is infatuated with the past. Take a Montevideo bus ride and you might hear a Peter Frampton tune followed by a Billy Ocean gem.

They even devote a night — La Noche de la Nostalgia (The Night of Nostalgia ) — to music of bygone years on August 24th each year.

Photo: Vince Alongi

7. Don’t… expect the mountains of Argentina and Chile

Um, because there aren’t any mountains in all of Uruguay. The highest elevation in this Missouri-sized country is about 500 meters (1,500 feet).

Do… explore the coast

In as little as a 30-minute drive outside of the capital, a chain of welcoming beaches begins — some surrounded by small cities or towns, some completely untouched by civilization.

These beach getaways are well worth the drive or easy bus ride.

8. Don’t… give money to Montevidean street kids

This reads harsh, but there’s good reason. Touristy sections of Montevideo are home to the planchas, a community of young people hooked on the drug pasta base and looking to do nothing else than buy more.

It’s an impure cocaine sulfate that takes a heavy toll on the body — one sign is teeth being eaten away.

Do… give food and time

They’d rather splurge on the next hit, but what they really need is food. Buy a couple empanadas and sit down with them; listen if they want to talk.

Warning: If it’s nighttime and you’re alone, it’s best to move on without engaging.

Community Connection

Now that Argentina’s decided to charge a $131 reciprocity fee for Americans arriving in Buenos Aires by air, Uruguay is looking even sweeter. Hit up Dominic with your questions before you go.

Photo: brainchildvn

Gay ski weeks…who knew? I didn’t, but I’m not sure why — there are tons on the calendar for the 2009-2010 ski season.

And there’s a lot more than powder on offer. We’re talking concerts, DJs, themed parties, comedy shows, and special packages (ahem).

Below is a selection of events from a variety of mountains and dates. To see the whole list, check out “A higher elevation” from www.dallasvoice.com.

Utah Gay & Lesbian Ski Week

where: Park City, Utah
when: January 6-10
website: GaySkiing.org

Utah starts it off. How nice of them. As the original article notes: “This is the Sundance Film Festival’s backyard, so it’s liberals everywhere for a few weeks.”

Aspen Gay & Lesbian Ski Week

where: Aspen, Colorado
when: January 17-24
website: GaySkiWeek.com

Now in its 33rd year, this is one of the biggies. Lots of music and a downhill drag race are included in the full 7 days of festivities.

Winter Explosion

where: Kerhonkson, New York
when: February 12-15
website: winterexplosion.com

The 16th annual Winter Explosion, dedicated especially to the African-American gay community, will also be its swan song. The artist Ledisi is headlining.

Telluride Gay Ski Week

where: Telluride, Colorado
when: February 20-27
website: www.telluridegayskiweek.com

This one’s been voted top gay ski week in the country. How could it not when hosting parties with names like Hump Night (on Wednesday, of course)?

WinterPride

where: Whistler, British Columbia
when: March 1-8
website: GayWhistler.com

After the Olympics shuts down, the pride party is set to hit Whistler-Blackcomb’s 8,000 skiable acres. There’s no telling which athletes might decide to book an extra week in the Olympic Village…

Community Connection

Plan out a different kind of vacation with Best American Spots for a Same-Sex Wedding and Ten of the World’s Farthest Flung Gay Bars.

Also check out Photo Essay: Gay Pride in Oaxaca, Mexico.