Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

It’s the standard modus operandi for many a surf trip, where the surfer’s mindset leaves little room for other considerations.

It isn’t that surfers are shallow, or narrow-minded, or don’t take an interest in their surroundings — it’s just that, well, they like to surf. Yes, the medieval fortifications might be an “absolute must see,” but the four-foot offshore waves squash those plans without further consideration.

Surfers are lucky. Most top-quality surf spots are in warm or tropical climes, generally not over-touristed, and are, by their nature, chilled out places to spend a few weeks. But that doesn’t stop a nagging feeling that maybe we’re missing out on some of the…what’s that word…oh: culture.

Thankfully though, the surf gods decided that surfing and culture needn’t always be mutually exclusive. In a few hallowed parts of the globe, the two indeed live side by side in peaceful harmony.

Northern Spain is one of these places. Surfers can return home with tales of perfect left-hand point breaks and the best patatas bravas this side of Seville.

Northern Spain’s three major cities — and the coast between them — provide enough cultural and culinary fare to push those thoughts of 30° water and mechanical reef breaks to the back of your mind. For a few moments, at least.

San Sebastian

Photo: Enrique de Clasca

Assuming you’re traveling from east to west, San Sebastian will be first on the list. It’s perhaps one of the most surreal places in the world to surf. You might find yourself changing into your wetsuit in the underground NCP car park in the middle of the city before strolling — barefoot, board under arm — through town amongst Spanish businesspeople.

Be prepared for some pinch-yourself moments as you join the masses waiting for the lights to change.

Photo: Rory Finneren

The city’s central break, Ondarreta, is at the end of the high street. Having made the transition from smog to seafront, you’ll see that the bay is overseen by a huge statue of Jesus, his arm raised in approval as you pull off another perfect Spanish right-hander.

The beach can get crowded and you’ll find yourself competing for waves, but it’s worth it, if only to say you’ve surfed there.

Back on land, San Sebastian stakes its claim as the capital of Basque cuisine and of the ubiquitous pintxos (Basque tapas). These tasty bite-size snacks are all the more delicious after a day spent in the water.

Pretty much all bars have pintxos on offer, although you’ll have to make a swift assessment as to whether it’s a “help yourself” or “wait to be offered” affair to avoid getting your wrists slapped.

Pitstop in Mundaka

Moving west towards Bilbao, make sure to stop at Mundaka, a surf town that’s been at the center of European surf culture for the last 40 years. The world-renowned break is perched at the mouth of Guernica estuary and is legendary for its fickleness.

In 2005, following overzealous dredging by a local shipyard, the break disappeared for almost two years. But it’s back now, even if it only really turns on a few times a year.

Some of the most talented surfers in the world make Mundaka their home through the Spanish autumn and winter, in the hope of surfing the wave when it’s on. It’s reckoned by many to be the best left-hander anywhere.

Surfing aside, Mundaka epitomises sleepy Spain. Grabbing a coffee or taking a walk along the estuary almost merits the detour itself.

Bilbao

If your nerves can handle it, it’s worth sticking to the coastal road as it teeters on the edge of sheer cliffs, which drop straight into the sea. It’s one of those drives that can be considered an “event” in itself.

The suburban approach to Bilbao — along the banks of Río Nervión — foreshadows the town itself. Pretty and newly renovated houses give way to the rubble of a recent industrial past; rusting warehouses and a corrupted river reflect the Bilbao of old.

Photo: Big Blue Ocean

As you approach the city, however, these warehouses fade into tree-lined walkways and cycle paths. Many have been converted into the apartments and offices that begin to line the river and are testament to the cosmopolitan reincarnation of the city.

It’s only once the road melds with the river — as it meanders right and into the city’s hub — that you spot, on the far bank, the totem that has come to epitomize the new Bilbao: the Guggenheim Museum.

From a cultural standpoint, it’s a must if you’re in the area. Inside and out, the structure will blow you away.

Bilbao is an animated and engaging city. Although there’s no surf on its doorstep, there’s a ton of fun to be had, especially if you time your visit to coincide with one of the many fiestas.

Santander

The final metropolitan stop before beginning the run into the westernmost regions of Asturias and Galicia is Santander. In some respects it’s the ugly sister of the trio. Santander does little to disguise its industrial heart.

Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

Much of the city was destroyed by fire in 1941, and the sprawl that’s developed since has a practical, modernist feel to it.

Elements of the old city do remain and are worth a wander, but it’s another department in which Santander succeeds in trumping both Bilbao and San Sebastian: its beaches.

From the bustle of downtown, it’s a 10-minute walk to the kite- and windsurfing magnet of Playa de la Magdalena, or a 20-minute ferry ride to the vibrant Hossegor-style resort of Somo. There you’ll find great surfing and a fantastic beach vibe. And despite the very best of cultural intentions, it’s a fitting end to the trip.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re extending your trip south across the Strait of Gibraltar, Trips also has valuable info on Surfing Morocco.

Beebe Bahrami’s Eat, Pray, Love in Spain is well worth a read if you want to explore more of the cultural and spiritual side of the country.

Photos: author

Park up, pour a glass of wine, and enjoy one of nature’s best shows.

Hossegor, France

Hossegor lies at the end of the Côte d’Argent, the longest uninterrupted stretch of sand in Europe — it seems to go on forever in both directions.

The beaches teem with young French and foreign surfers in the summer, capitalizing on the town’s waves and nightlife. The Gulf Stream ensures an unnaturally temperate sea, and thus climate — suited to both beach lazing and wine making — that make Hossegor an unbeatable spot to pull up and watch the sun go down.

Playa America, West Spain

The beach of Playa America sits just north of the border with Portugal. It’s the centrepiece of an authentic Spanish resort, peppered with tapas bars and seafood that makes it from crab-pot to plate within hours. The relaxed feel of the town stretches to the beach, where the long summer days mean extended sun basking.

As the Spanish don’t change their clocks for summertime — and you’re about as west as you get in Europe — afternoon slips into evening and the sun hangs on till eleven in June.

As it finally fades over the horizon, the sky takes on a rose-tinted glow.

Peniche, Portugal

The diverse selection of beaches around the old fishing town of Peniche makes it a perfect destination on any “North-South” European surf trip. Quite often, a “quick stop” becomes a longer stay.

The prime van spot overlooks the reef-break of Lagide; there’s usually a mini-village of 20 to 30 parked vans. You may have to wait an hour for someone to leave so you can snatch a prime front-row seat and watch surfers ride the left-hander.

The car park also has a cold-water shower — a genuine van-life treat — and a 300-degree perspective for sunset viewing as another day fades away.

Conil, South Spain

Almost squeezed through the Strait of Gibraltar by the unremitting Atlantic, Conil desperately hangs on and offers a final sanctuary before the package-holiday-hell that is the Spanish Mediterranean.

Less exposed than its western counterpart, the south coast of the Atlantic is a visually and physically mellower affair.

The historic fishing town of Conil is now a staple for Spanish tourists, and joining the masses for their late-afternoon promenade is an affirming communal experience. The scope of its beach is almost Saharan and the walk to the sea is a long but pleasant one.

The Med does offer Conil something: the sea is much warmer than farther west — you can surf here in boardshorts for much of the year — and on a clear evening you can make out the shores of Tangier and the Atlas Mountains far to the south.

The town itself stretches up behind you in a patchwork of whitewashed houses, providing an excellent screen on which to project the pinks and purples of Europe’s southernmost sunset.

Rioja, Spain

Although not technically on the Atlantic, Rioja is an essential addition given wine’s important role in promoting a full sensory sunset experience.

Rioja is one of Europe’s most celebrated wine regions and, as with its fizzier northern cousin Champagne, provides a promise of some of the best vino around.

Vines drape over the region’s hills and late afternoon provides a deep and vibrant tableau — the sunlight plays on the hills, the wine stimulates your taste buds…and the sunsets: a full-stop falling off the page at the end of another chapter.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Matador also has info on how to camperize your ride, as well as converting it to run for free on vegetable oil. For more interesting discussion on customizing your van, check out this community forum post.

Hollow break on the Algarve Coast. Go farther though–to Ericeira, for a whole different experience. Photo by Rhys Stacker. Feature photo by Gustty.

The Portuguese fishing village of Ericeira harbours a secret, or–depending on how fussy you are–about 11 world class secrets.

Thirty miles northwest of Lisbon on Portugal’s Atlantic coast, Ericeira’s freakily perfect set-up means that you can surf sublime reef, point, and beach-breaks all within about four miles of coastline.

Ranging from the fin/head-gouging White Rock, to the mellow beach-break of Sao Lorenzo, you could film a different-types-of-surf documentary here in an afternoon.

Photo by zoë_alexandra.

Waves include 5-star WQS venue Ribeira D’Ihas, which appears at first sight to be a fairly mellow reef breaking over a sand/rock bottom, but gets a lot more interesting once overhead.

And Coxos–one of those breaks that any serious European surfer needs to tick off their list: an Anka-style grinding right-hander up there with the best.

Aside from these big guns of the European surf scene, there are plenty of other spots within the town limits.

Destinations

Community Connection to Portugal

Reef is popular with those staying at the campsite, Backdoor is a slab-reef that has fun, slappable sections, and Sao Lorenzo has classic French-style beachy peaks sandwiched between a sucky left and a mellow slab-reef right on either side of the bay.

All spots have their day, and it’s not uncommon to be driving through town and spot a couple of guys out on a random reef that just happens to be working.

Although the reefs and points are generally the domain of experienced surfers, there are mellower breaks–and days–and the beaches, especially Sao Lorenzo, suit all levels. There are a couple of surf-schools based in town.

What turns it on?

As with the rest of the Portuguese coast, Ericeira picks up any swell going in the Atlantic and–because those North Atlantic swells have put in a few miles–expect well lined up, setty sessions when it’s on.

When to go?

Well, it’s Europe, so autumn, spring, and winter. Summer can get good, but is less consistent and the Nortada (a strong Northerly caused by the Azores High) tends to kick in early in the day and will wreck the surf.

I want more than world-class surf!

Ericeira is about as Portuguese as you can get and, although it’s a popular holiday destination, it’s popular with the Portuguese, so no Algarve-style tourism and no golf courses. It’s more about wandering around the streets and grabbing a coffee and a pastry after a morning session.

Photo above by Fr Antunes.

Evening time there are some bars where things kick off after midnight, and plenty of restaurants–take a wander down some of the gloomier side streets to turn up the best food.

If you want culture, then the palace at Sintra is pretty cool, plus you’re only 45 minutes from Lisbon.

If you think you’re done with the surf in Ericeira (or the Nortarda’s too much for you!) then heading up to the more sheltered Peniche or down to the south facing breaks of Lisbon is always an option.

Getting there and staying there

Lisbon is only 30 miles from the town, so flying there makes sense.

If you’ve booked a flight to the Algarve (Faro) and the surf’s looking flat down south, but is going off up north (It happens…!), then it’s a 3½-hour drive up to Ericeira. Driving down from Porto is also an option.

In terms of putting your head down after another epic day, there are loads of pensions in the town and, especially out of summer, prices are pretty negotiable and you should find something for 20 or 30 Euros for two people. Just take a wander around the town and look out for the pension and room signs.

The municipal campsite is also a good option and has chalets and surf shacks to hire. It’s nicely done out, clean… and there are five breaks within strolling distance: a good option if you’re not hiring a car, and catching the bus to town from the airport.

Photo by * Lna *.

Will I score perfect surf? Is it too crowded?

When it’s on, the sheer number of waves means that you should be able to find yourself a decent peak that’s not too busy, but be prepared to search a bit if you don’t want to be hustling for your cover-ups.

All breaks are significantly busier at weekends as the Lisbon surfing contingent moves into the town, and if you’re surfing classic Coxos or Ribeira D’Ihas when it’s on, then you’ll need to be assertive.

Will you score world class waves? If there’s swell, and you are in Ericeira, and you know which way to point a surfboard: then yes.

Community Connection:

Surfing your way around the world? Check out our definitive world surfing guide.