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	<title>Matador Trips &#187; Allen Burt</title>
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	<link>http://matadortrips.com</link>
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		<title>Photo Essay: Southern Patagonia and the End of the World</title>
		<link>http://matadortrips.com/photo-essay-southern-patagonia-and-the-end-of-the-world</link>
		<comments>http://matadortrips.com/photo-essay-southern-patagonia-and-the-end-of-the-world#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Sep 2009 11:16:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Allen Burt</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Photo Essay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Argentina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chile]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fitz Roy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[glacier]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[National Park]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patagonia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[perito moreno]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photo essays]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tierra del Fuego]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matadortrips.com/?p=3785</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Matador contributor Allen Burt shares scenes from a three-week journey through Southern Patagonia.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="subtitle">Matador contributor Allen Burt shares scenes from a three-week journey through Southern Patagonia.</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia1.jpg" alt="Cerro Fitz Roy"/></p>
<p><span class="number">1.</span> The peak of Cerro Fitz Roy looms in the distance &#8212; the goal of my hike through the Southern Patagonian Ice Field near the border of Argentina and Chile.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia2.jpg" alt="Perito Moreno glacier, Argentina"/></p>
<p><span class="number">2.</span> The Perito Moreno Glacier as viewed from the observation decks in <a target="_blank" href="http://www.losglaciares.com/">Parque Nacional Los Glaciares</a> near the town of El Calafate, Argentina.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia3.jpg" alt="Patagonian ferry at sunset"/></p>
<p><span class="number">3.</span> A ferry docks prior to making the journey from Argentina to Chile in Southern Patagonia.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia4.jpg" alt="On Perito Moreno"/></p>
<p><span class="number">4.</span> Traversing the Perito Moreno Glacier feels non-terrestrial in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Argentina.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia5.jpg" alt="El Chalten, Argentina"/></p>
<p><span class="number">5.</span> A photographer captures the fading sunset behind Cerro Fitz Roy near El Chalten, Argentina.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia6.jpg" alt="Patagonian sunrise"/></p>
<p><span class="number">6.</span> Sweeping clouds paint violet strokes across the morning sky &#8212; one of the many faces of Patagonia.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia7.jpg" alt="Cerro Fitz Roy in winter"/></p>
<p><span class="number">7.</span> On the fringes of the hiking season in early and late winter, the ridges of Cerro Fitz Roy are covered with snow, making many trails inaccessible. Though challenging, the harsh conditions yield tourist-less hikes and magnificent views like this one taken during a lunch break.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia8.jpg" alt="The road to Torres del Paine, Chile"/></p>
<p><span class="number">8.</span> Flat Patagonian plains collide with the towering Andes at <a href="http://matadortrips.com/8-natural-wonders-of-chile/">Parque Nacional Torres del Paine</a>, Chile.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia9.jpg" alt="Ushuaia, Argentina"/></p>
<p><span class="number">9.</span> Pondering &#8220;el fin del mundo.&#8221; A solo climb over the Martial Glacier near Ushuaia leaves a view beyond the southernmost tip of South America.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia10.jpg" alt="Argentina hiking"/></p>
<p><span class="number">10.</span> Arriving at the summit of another long hike leads to some &#8220;time killing&#8221; experiments in camera angles while awaiting the sunset. Matrix anyone?</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia11.jpg" alt="Parque Tierra del Fuego"/></p>
<p><span class="number">11.</span> Set at the southernmost point of South America, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.tierradelfuego.org.ar/pntf/">Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego</a> is as eerie as it is magnificent.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090921-patagonia12.jpg" alt="Shipwreck in the Beagle Channel, Argentina"/></p>
<p><span class="number">12.</span> Shipwreck in the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia, Argentina.</p>
</div>
<div class="writing_promo">
<h3>Trying to find new markets or become a successful travel photographer?</h3>
<p>Grab Matador&#8217;s Free Report <a href="http://www.matadoru.com/freebie-photo">15 Publications That Pay For Travel Photography</a> and help accelerate your career as a photographer.</div>
<h3>Community Connection</h3>
<p><strong>For more</strong> eerie magnificence, make sure to give these titles a read:</p>
<p><a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-writing/argentina/travel-place/searching-for-patagonia">Searching for Patagonia</a></p>
<p><a href="http://matadorsports.com/powderquest-patagonia-trip-report-from-devin-mcdonell/">Powderquest Patagonia: Trip Report from Devin McDonell</a></p>
<p><a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-guides/chile/trekking-torres-del-paines-patagonia-chile">Trekking Torres Del Paines, Patagonia, Chile</a></p>
<p><a href="http://matadorgoods.com/essential-gear-for-your-patagonia-trip/">Essential Gear for Your Patagonia Trip</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>22</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Photo Essay: Cambodia by Motorbike</title>
		<link>http://matadortrips.com/photo-essay-cambodia-by-motorbike</link>
		<comments>http://matadortrips.com/photo-essay-cambodia-by-motorbike#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Sep 2009 14:17:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Allen Burt</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Photo Essay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[angkor wat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cambodia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[motorcycle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photography]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pictures]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[southeast asia]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matadortrips.com/?p=3529</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[During a two-week motorcycle journey across Cambodia, Matador contributor Allen Burt experiences the contrasts of a country steeped in beauty and ancient grandeur, yet overshadowed by a recent bloody past.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="subtitle">During a two-week motorcycle journey across Cambodia, Matador contributor Allen Burt experiences the contrasts of a country steeped in beauty and ancient grandeur, yet overshadowed by a recent bloody past.</div>
<p>The road is narrow and the traffic is&#8230;interesting? Cows wander aimlessly, playing a perpetual game of Frogger with each passing bus and farm tractor. Locals scream by on scooters hauling everything from live chickens and hogs to dressers and bed frames.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m stuck in the middle of the madness &#8212; clinging to the seat of a rusty dirt bike I learned to ride yesterday. My companions and I have set out to pierce the heart of this misunderstood country, and it&#8217;s going to be one hell of a ride.</p>
<p>Our journey begins in Phnom Penh&#8230;</p>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia1.jpg" alt="Tuol Sleng Prison, Phnom Penh"/></p>
<p><span class="number">1.</span> Grasping the unthinkable horrors of the S21 prison, where over 17,000 prisoners were interrogated, tortured, and executed during the Khmer Rouge rein &#8212; only a handful survived.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia2.jpg" alt="Tuk-tuk in Phnom Penh"/></p>
<p><span class="number">2.</span> The impact of our visit to S21 and the &#8220;Killing Fields&#8221; hangs heavy during a moto-taxi ride through downtown Phnom Penh.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia3.jpg" alt="Riding a motorbike in Cambodia"/></p>
<p><span class="number">3.</span> Forced off the road by a local bus, we regroup before continuing our journey south to the coast.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia4.jpg" alt="Koh Rong Samloem, Cambodia"/></p>
<p><span class="number">4.</span> View from our bungalow porch on the island of Koh Rong Samloem. Pure paradise.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia5.jpg" alt="Playing frisbee on a Cambodian beach"/></p>
<p><span class="number">5.</span> Game of frisbee on a remote beach on the island of Koh Rong Samloem.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia6.jpg" alt="Motorbike tuneup in Cambodia"/></p>
<p><span class="number">6.</span> On the road north to Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor, a crowd forms to watch our bikes receive a necessary tuneup.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia7.jpg" alt="Sunrise at Angkor Wat"/></p>
<p><span class="number">7.</span> Sun rises over the spectacular temple of Angkor Wat.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia8.jpg" alt="Angkor Thom temples"/></p>
<p><span class="number">8.</span> The forest is quick to reclaim the land, swallowing the Angkor Thom temples.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia9.jpg" alt="Carvings at Ta Prohm"/></p>
<p><span class="number">9.</span> Carvings in the stone at Ta Prohm temple give a glimpse into the past of a once mighty civilization.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia10.jpg" alt="Sunset on Bakheng Hill"/></p>
<p><span class="number">10.</span> Watching the sunset from <a href="http://matadortrips.com/ideal-places-to-watch-the-sun-rise-and-set/">Bakheng Hill</a> caps a surreal day exploring the vast complex of ancient Angkor temples.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia11.jpg" alt="Gas station in Cambodia"/></p>
<p><span class="number">11.</span> On the road into eastern Cambodia, unreliable and sporadic gas stations force us to carry fuel reserves in used water bottles.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia12.jpg" alt="Cambodian elephant rider"/></p>
<p><span class="number">12.</span> A local guide arrives with the morning&#8217;s transportation as we prepare for our trek through the eastern Cambodian jungles.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia13.jpg" alt="Washing an elephant in Cambodia"/></p>
<p><span class="number">13.</span> Yes, washing an elephant is a serious ordeal.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia14.jpg" alt="Tuk-tuk and Buddhist monk"/></p>
<p><span class="number">14.</span> A local Buddhist monk catches a ride into town.</p>
</div>
<div class="photo_essay"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090902-cambodia15.jpg" alt="Backpacking in rural Cambodia"/></p>
<p><span class="number">15.</span> In rural Cambodia, every road leads to a new adventure.</p>
</div>
<h3>Community Connection</h3>
<p><strong>For more on Cambodia</strong>, make sure not to miss <a href="http://matadortrips.com/cambodia-beyond-angkor-wat/">Cambodia Beyond Angkor Wat</a> and Rucksack Wanderer&#8217;s (aka, Matador editor Tim Patterson&#8217;s) <a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-guides/cambodia/rucksack-wanderers-secrets-koh-rong-cambodia">Secret Guide to Koh Rong</a>. Tim also authored <a href="http://matadorgoods.com/guidebook-review-lonely-planet-cambodia/">Guidebook Review: Lonely Planet Cambodia</a>.</p>
<p>To stay on theme but shift gears to Cambodia&#8217;s neighbor, check out <a href="http://matadortrips.com/backpackers-secret-guide-nan-thailand/">Backpacker’s Secret Guide: Nan, Thailand</a>, which features tips written from the moto-perspective.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Six Cups: Tea Cultures Around the World</title>
		<link>http://matadortrips.com/six-cups-tea-cultures-around-the-world</link>
		<comments>http://matadortrips.com/six-cups-tea-cultures-around-the-world#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Jun 2009 13:15:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Allen Burt</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cultural Immersion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Destinations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fresh Ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chengdu]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[China]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[coca]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cotswolds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cuzco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ganzi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marrakech]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nashville]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Peru]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sweet tea]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tea]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tea time]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tibet]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matadortrips.com/?p=1362</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[And you thought your cup of Lipton's was as good as it was going to get?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captionright"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090520-tea1.jpg" alt="Plastic tea cups" />
<p>Photo: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/akakirara/">aka*kirara</a></p>
</div>
<div class="subtitle">And you thought your cup of Lipton&#8217;s was as good as it was going to get? Prepare yourself for a world tour of tea experiences.</div>
<h5>Cotswolds, England</h5>
<p>Nobody embraces tea more seriously than the English. Famous world over for its stone-built villages, historical towns, and rolling green hills, there&#8217;s no better place to experience tea time than the English Cotswolds.</p>
<p>Sip Earl Grey amongst drooping willows and lazy streams at the birthplace of William Shakespeare, in Stratford-upon-Avon, and you may be inspired to write a few sonnets of your own.</p>
<div class="captionright"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090520-tea3.jpg" alt="Ear cleaning in a Chengdu teahouse" />
<p>Photo: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/allenburt/">Author</a></p>
</div>
<h5>Chengdu, China</h5>
<p>Chinese green tea is as famous in the East as Earl Grey is in the West. For the best in Chinese teahouse culture, head to Chengdu.</p>
<p>Traditionally venues for conversation, light eating, and ear cleaning (a service performed by professionals with mini-lances and swabs, followed by an energizing shoulder massage), Chengdu teahouses have evolved into both trendy hotspots for dating and nightlife as well as sanctuaries of quiet relaxation.</p>
<p>At the south bridge of Dujiang Weir, enjoy a relaxing afternoon outside with a bottomless pot of your choice for around 20 yuan ($3).</p>
<p>And yes, you can still have your ears professionally lanced.</p>
<h5>Ganzi, Tibetan Plateau</h5>
<p>After passing over 13,000ft mountain passes to the Tibetan Plateau, Chinese green gives way to its western cousin, butter tea. A mainstay of the local diet, generous portions of (often rancid) butter and salt give Tibetan tea a uniquely unpleasant flavor that is undoubtedly an acquired taste.</p>
<p>Tibetans take advantage of the butter&#8217;s oils to protect their lips from the high-altitude sun. Consequently, the higher you go, the more butter in your tea.</p>
<div class="captionright"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090520-tea4.jpg" alt="Butter tea in Tibet" />
<p>Photo: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/allenburt/">Author</a></p>
</div>
<p>Although situated in West Sichuan and not the Tibetan Autonomous Region, the town of Ganzi is culturally more Tibetan than most of Tibet.</p>
<p>Wander the old town, overlooked by a hilltop monastery (home to over 500 Buddhist monks), and you&#8217;ll find yourself lost among faded prayer flags and elderly patrons slowly spinning prayer wheels.</p>
<p>Since the 2008 Tibetan uprisings, in which Ganzi was an epicenter of violent protest, West Sichuan has been out of bounds to most foreigners. If you make it to this remote mountain town and duck into one of the many local guesthouses for tea, you&#8217;ll likely be the only Westerner they&#8217;ll see for weeks.</p>
<div class="captionright"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090520-tea5.jpg" alt="Pouring Moroccan mint tea" />
<p>Photo: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/allenburt/">Author</a></p>
</div>
<h5>Marrakech, Morocco</h5>
<p>Sipping hot mint tea in the souks of <a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-blog/morocco/prohost-international/thoughts-of-morocco-think-marrakesh">Marrakech</a>, Morocco, entails more than you might expect.</p>
<p>You sit among boiling cauldrons of lamb heads, watching as your tea is poured from large steaming copper kettles at arm&#8217;s length into tiny palm-sized glasses.</p>
<p>The addictive sweet mint tea is served throughout the day. Alcohol is regarded as taboo in traditional circles in this Muslim nation, so mint tea acts as the social beverage of choice.</p>
<p>At the local food stalls in the Djemaa el Fna, in the heart of the old city, grab a cup with the locals in the evenings for around $0.10 a glass.</p>
<h5>Cuzco, Peru</h5>
<p>The coca leaf, notorious for its roll as the principal ingredient in cocaine, has been used for centuries in Andean tea.</p>
<div class="captionright"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs///wp-content/images/posts/20090520-tea6.jpg" alt="Coca tea mug in Cuzco" />
<p>Photo: <a target="_blank" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdpuckett/">sdpuckett</a></p>
</div>
<p>Among the Inca-descended Quechua in particular, the ancient brew is still consumed to alleviate the effects of life at altitude.</p>
<p>Try the tea in the mountain city of <a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-blog/ecuador/jgbrandt/a-short-video-on-lima-cuzco-and-the-sacred-valley">Cuzco</a>, where tourist accommodations offer a complementary cup on arrival.</p>
<p>At nearly 11,000 ft above sea level, your body will thank you for downing a draught of the coca concoction, especially if you&#8217;ve just gotten in from Lima and the coast.</p>
<h5>Nashville, USA</h5>
<p>Served on ice with a squeeze of lemon on a hot Tennessee afternoon…it&#8217;s not hard to understand why American Southerners love their sweet tea. What better place than the home of country music to experience it for yourself?</p>
<p>Located 30 minutes from downtown Nashville along a narrow country road sits Barbara&#8217;s Home Cookin&#8217;, a local &#8220;<a target="_blank" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meat_and_three">meat an&#8217; three</a>&#8221; joint. One sip of Barbara&#8217;s homemade sweet tea, accompanied by a lunch of her fried chicken and fresh pie, and you&#8217;ll be humming &#8220;Rocky Top Tennessee&#8221; for a week.</p>
<h3>Community Connection</h3>
<p>Tea fans might also enjoy reading about <a href="http://thetravelersnotebook.com/travel-health/10-herbs-that-ease-common-travel-ailments/">11 Herbs That Ease Common Travel Ailments</a>. Also, make sure to check out <a href="http://www.bravenewtraveler.com/2007/10/31/hidden-hope-a-visit-to-thotulagalla-tea-estate/">Hidden Hope: A Visit to a Sri Lankan Tea Estate</a>.</p>
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