Photo by Andris Bjornson

Malaysian Borneo is straight out of an explorer’s dream. It’s home to the tallest mountain in South East Asia, the largest underground cavern in the world, and mile after mile of wild rain forest.

If it’s adventure you’re after, bypass the glitzy dive resorts and golf courses in the northern province of Sabah and head south to the jungles of Sarawak for some trekking.

Sarawak trekking takes more than a little slogging through muddy, leech infested territory. As you remove your sock to flick off what seems like the thousandth bloodsucker to wriggle its way through the mesh of your boot, you may find yourself questioning your choice of destination.

Surrounding you, though, will be some of the most bio-diverse forest in the world: home to 15,000 species of flowering plants, 3,000 species of trees, and 221 species of terrestrial mammals.

At the end of the day, safe and dry in a jungle hut with a stomach full of rice and tasty jungle vegetables, you won’t find yourself regretting a trip to Sarawak.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

The Kelabit Highlands

Sarawak offers a lot of options for jungle trekking. From large cities on the coast, you can catch a ride in a longboat or 4×4 to a tribal longhouse in the interior. There, you’ll sample the local cuisine and have the opportunity to discuss trekking options with local guides.

Many of these easily accessible longhouses have started to see a lot of traffic. You may find that they cater well to tourists, but provide a less authentic experience.

The village of Bario, high in the Kelabit Highlands, offers a more remote option. The village is accessible only accessible by six seater Twin Otter, and flights operate early in the morning to beat the afternoon fog.

Watching the twin peaks of Bukit Batu Lawi pass even with your wingtips as you descend to Bario’s tiny grass airstrip isn’t something you’ll soon forget.

The friendly MASWings pilots keep the cockpit door open during the short flight from Miri. If you ask nicely they may make a detour to give you better views of the local mountains.

Flights to Bario from Miri are a reasonable 70 Ringgit (USD 22) or an even more reasonable RM 55 (USD 18) from Marudi.

It’s actually possible to trek to Bario all the way from Miri, but it’s an extremely strenuous three week trip through some very rugged jungle terrain. Check out this guy Jeff’s blog for some pointers if you think you’re up to the challenge.

Relaxing in Bario

Once in Bario, you may find the hardest thing to do is make yourself leave. The high plateau air is invigoratingly chilly, and the vibrant green of the surrounding agricultural land is almost surreal. It would be easy to pass a few lazy mornings sipping steaming tea and reading a book on the porch of one of the basic guesthouses scattered through town.

Expect to pay about RM 50 (USD 15) per person per night for accomodation and food.

Wandering around the peaceful village and making a few local friends is a great way to pass an afternoon. The standard Kelabit greeting translates as something like “Hello! Where are you coming from? Where are you going?”

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself answering the same questions several times an hour.

Kelabit hospitality is legendary, in no small part thanks to the tasty food they prepare. Meals consist of a mix of cultivated rice, wild game, and jungle vegetables.

Cultures across Asia claim to produce the best rice in the world, but in the Kelabit Highlands those claims aren’t far off the mark.

The tender, long grain Bario rice will give you a new appreciation for rice as a meal rather than a staple. Kelabits eat rice three meals a day, but with the endless methods of preparation you won’t find yourself bored anytime soon.

Be sure to try the Kelabit equivalent of an energy bar: sweet, cooked rice molded to the shape of a bar and tightly wrapped in a banana leaf.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

Trekking Destinations

When you’re ready to hit the trails and start exploring, Bario offers plenty of options and makes an excellent base for exploring the area. Consider making the three day trek from Bario to Ba’kelalan via the tiny, peaceful village of Pa’Lungan.

Those looking for a more strenuous option can tack on a side trip up Mt. Murud along the way.

Other options include a three day trek to dramatic Bukit Batu Lawi, whose rocky twin peaks were photogenic enough to attract a North Face advertising film crew a few years ago.

Ba’kelalan has the same highland agricultural atmosphere of Bario, but is slightly more connected to civilization. It sports both an airstrip and a rough logging road running all the way to the coast.

A seat in a souped up 4×4 headed to Lawas will cost you slightly more than a flight, but the five hour roller coaster ride on sketchy dirt roads is an adventure in itself.

Ba’kelalan is famous for having convinced apple trees to grow in the cool climate. If you visit in late March, you may be lucky enough to catch the annual apple festival.

Locally produced salt is a source of Ba’kelalan pride. At one of the village’s salt springs, you can watch the production process from start to finish.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

Logistics of Sarawak Trekking

Rain and mud make jungle trails hard to follow, and the difference between a game trail and a walking trail is often a matter of opinion.

Getting lost could be life-threatening. Unless you’ve spent a lot of time navigating similar terrain, don’t venture into the jungle without an experienced guide.

The going rate for guiding is somewhere around RM 60 (USD 20) per day plus tip. You won’t have any trouble finding a guide in Bario if you ask around, but consider getting in touch with Walter Paran or his brother Mado. Both live in Pa’Lungan and will take great care of you on the trail.

Kelabit woodsmen are true masters of their environment, and watching one in action is a fantastic learning experience. When not guiding tourists, many woodsmen prefer to travel through the jungle off-trail because they say they can move faster that way.

The parang or machete is the woodsman’s Swiss Army Knife. Throughout your hike, you’ll probably see your guide put it to more uses you can count; hacking clear overgrown trail one minute, and delicately peeling jungle tubers for you to taste the next.

You’ll want to pack light for a jungle trek. You’ll gain significant elevation no matter which way you head from Bario, and at least half of the hike to Ba’kelalan is uphill.

Bring iodine to purify water, water bottles, a first aid kit, rain gear, and a fleece. You’ll either stay with Kelabit families or in simple, open, jungle shelters along the way so you won’t need a tent.

A hammock or sleeping pad and light sleeping bag can make for much more comfortable nights. If possible, leave the bulk of your gear in a Miri airport locker or in Bario if trekking a loop route.

Leeches are disgusting, but harmless. (Just keep reminding yourself that unlike mosquitoes, leeches don’t carry disease). A bit of deet sprayed on your boots will help, but if you think you’ll avoid them completely you’re sorely mistaken. Flick leeches off sideways, as grabbing and pulling only makes them hold on tighter.

Note that the ancient footpath route to Ba’kelalan zig-zags briefly into Kalimantan Indonesia. You won’t need a visa if you’re just passing through on your trek, but you must carry your passport.

The tiny jungle border crossing isn’t a visa on arrival location. Don’t expect to cross into Indonesia and stay unless you planned ahead and already have a visa.

Other Borneo Activities

If you wrap up a Kelabit Higlands trek and find yourself with time to spare, Borneo offers plenty of other options for the adventurous:

Gunung Mulu National Park is home to Sarawak Chamber, the largest cave chamber in the world. The park is accessible by air from Miri, and has a modern tourist infrastructure of maps, lodging, and wooden walkways.

Experienced guides lead adventure caving trips into the park’s wild caves, including Sarawak Chamber itself. For the most technical spelunking, try the Clearwater Connection route.

You’ll spend 5-7 hours crawling through tight passages, descending fixed ropes, and wading waist deep through underground rivers to link two of the parks most impressive show caves.

In Sabah, you can hike up the highest mountain in South East Asia: Mt. Kinabalu. The traditional two day hike ends with a 4am alpine start to catch sunrise on the summit.

Those wanting more adrenaline should check out the newly completed highest via ferrata in the world. Bolts and iron cables keep you safe as you explore Kinabalu’s more exposed flanks.

Community Connection!

Matador travelers who can share stories of their time in Malaysia include islandhapa, who attended a tattoo convention in Borneo, and NomadicMatt, who included Sarawak on his list of 8 Ways To Get Off The SE Asian Tourist Trail.

We are passionate travelers. Join the Matador community today.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

High on a windswept hilltop in Cambodia’s Dangrek range near the Thai border, the stone windows of Preah Vihear temple have opened on the same impressive view for almost a thousand years.

Green plains 1500 ft below stretch to the horizon, and a few faint dirt roads extend in impossibly straight lines before vanishing behind a curtain of humid, blue haze.

A few anachronistic pieces of rusting Khmer Rouge artillery dot the temple grounds, serving as a reminder that the hilltop hasn’t had an entirely peaceful history.

Preah Vihear’s remoteness keeps the throngs of Angkor Wat tourists away, and if you’re ready to brave Cambodia’s notoriously bad roads on the back of a battered dirtbike you’re likely to score a hilltop temple sunrise all to yourself.

Solitude never comes easy, though. Expect to end each day by unclenching your cramped hands from the bike’s luggage rack, rattled to the core by some of the roughest roads around and covered from head to toe in fine Cambodian dust.

Adventure and hardship go hand in hand, right?

Coming From Thailand

Full disclosure – Preah Vihear is accessible without a visa from the Thai town of Si Saket on a paved highway. The border at Preah Vihear isn’t a true entry point, though. You’ll be allowed to enter the temple for a few hours to look around, but you’ll have to leave the same way you came.

Also, only visitors from the Cambodian side will catch the sunrise since the border doesn’t open until mid-morning. Cambodia needs your dollars far more than it’s neighbor to the west, and the dirtbike pilgrimage from Siem Reap is an unforgettable adventure.

The Ride

Whoever coined the term ‘dancing roads’ to describe Cambodia’s unmaintained thoroughfares was a master euphemist.

Backpackers have supposedly made it to Preah Vihear via moped, but ruts a foot deep or more swallow tires to their axles and destroy shock absorbers.

There’s a fine line between adventurous and crazy: don’t attempt this trip on anything less than a dirtbike (or a 4×4 if you have a bigger group).

photo by Andris Bjornson

Long days of riding will exhaust you, and it just takes one bad move to send you flying over the handlebars.

With the nearest medical facilities hundreds of kilometers away in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, this is best avoided.

Unless you’re an experienced rider, hire a driver who knows what he’s doing. Whatever you do, don’t attempt this trip in the rainy season.

Depending on your budget, you have a few options for finding a driver and bike in Siem Reap. Hidden Cambodia is a western run outfit, and will set you up with safety gear, guides, and bikes…all at premium prices.

Rates range from USD 155 to USD 185 per person/per day depending on the number of travelers.

On a tighter budget, consider Chaioffroadtrips. Chai is a safe driver, and you won’t meet a more friendly or honest Cambodian.

Chai quotes USD 80 per person per day on his website. All of the above prices include bike, driver, gas, food, accommodation, and admission fees.

Another option is to watch for locals riding around Siem Reap or Anlong Veng on dirtbikes. Most are amenable to negotiating impromptu trips for the right price.

However you find your prospective driver, do yourself a favor and sit down for a beer or a cup of tea with him before committing to the trip.

You’re going to spend at least six hours a day with your pelvis pressed into this guy’s tailbone…you’d better hope you get along.

Also, try to get a feel for whether the driver you’re considering knows how to fix his own bike. From where you’re headed, it’s a long way to the nearest garage.

Points En Route

The city of Anlong Veng 200+ km north of Siem Reap is home to a number of oddly non-judgmental monuments to the architects of the Khmer Rouge government, including Pol Pot’s grave.

At Koh Ker, the ruined once capital of the Khmer Empire doesn’t see many visitors. Beng Mealea is a temple complex even more jungle-ravaged than Ta Prohm at Angkor Wat, and definitely worth a visit.

Find a few of these spots on a map, connect them with a hand drawn line, and you’ve got the recipe for a dirtbike adventure lasting somewhere between 4 and 7 days.

photo by Andris Bjornson

Most travelers choose to start and finish their trek to Preah Vihear in Siem Reap, but other options exist.

If you’re headed to Phnom Penh, you could end your trip in Tbeng Meanchey and connect with onward public transportation. It’s possible to cross to/from Thailand near Anlong Veng, but onward transportation can be sketchy, so make sure to cross early in the day.

Safety

Like most third world countries, Cambodia is a place where travelers must accept responsibility for their own safety. Thousands of landmines placed over decades of conflict litter the countryside.

photo by Andris Bjornson

Temple sites have been cleared of landmines, but pay close attention to boundary warning signs. Travel only on worn roads and paths and never wander into the underbrush

Solo female travelers in particular should be on their guard. Assaults, though rare, have been known to take place even around Siem Reap.

What To Pack

There’s not a lot of trunk space on the average dirtbike, and you’ll probably wear your luggage on your back. Bring something to keep warm, and something to keep dry.

A krama (checkered Cambodian scarf) is great for keeping the dust out of your mouth. Bring a first aid kit; in Preah Vihear province you’re on your own when it comes to medical care.

Accept that you’re going to smell like hell by the end of the trip and don’t bring much extra gear. You’ll feel every ounce of gear in your pack slamming down on your shoulders as the bike ‘dances’ over the Cambodian ‘roads’.

Eating and Sleeping

Accommodations along the way are surprisingly not too shabby. In particular, don’t miss the guesthouse on the cliffs above Anlong Veng at what was once the ‘mountain house’ of Ta Mok, brother number four in the Khmer Rouge.

Hammocks offer great views of the Cambodian plains, a cool breeze keeps the mosquitoes away, and the basic single rooms are clean.

photo by Andris Bjornson

There’s a guesthouse in the ramshackle village at the entrance to the Preah Vihear temple complex where you’ll have to stay if you want to catch the sunrise from the temple. Both of these guesthouses cost about $4 usd per night, depending on your negotiating skills.

Food in Preah Vihear province (as in the rest of Cambodia) is simple but tasty: rice with various meats and vegetables. You’ll find restaurants in Anlong Veng and Tbeang Meanchey. Elsewhere it’s possible to buy meals from local families.

In either case, it’s best to eat whatever your host recommends, as it’s probably the freshest food available.

Travel guidebooks often suggest avoiding ice, but few things are more refreshing after a hard day’s ride than Crown beer poured over a single giant ice cube in a glass mug.

In Cambodia, it’s traditional to clink glasses before every sip. If you slip up and drink without toasting you’re expected to down the rest of your beer.

You have to love a culture that has ‘traditional’ drinking games. Cheers!

Community Connection!

MatadorTrips.com editor Tim Patterson has traveled to Cambodia several times and wrote a Backpacker’s Guide To Cambodia. Also check out his guide to Koh Rong, a remote island off the Cambodian coast.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

The adventure tourism boom has Nepal firmly in its sights, and Kathmandu’s Thamel district overflows with same kind of wall-to-wall tourism industry you’d expect to see on Bangkok’s Khao San Road.

Popular treks in the Everest Base Camp region and around the Annapurna Circuit, while as spectacular as ever, are now crowded with travelers.

If you’d rather share a cup of sweet tea with a Tibetan refugee than a bottle of beer with another backpacker at the end of each day’s hike, consider a trip to the base camp of the little known third tallest mountain in the world: Mt. Kangchenjunga.

Tucked away in the remote northeast corner of the country, the almost complete lack of tourist infrastructure in the Taplejung district of Nepal makes for an adventure that’s equal parts rugged and rewarding.

The 20+ day Kangchenjunga loop trek will have you subsisting on a diet of rice and lentils, sleeping chilly nights in drafty huts, and teetering across bridges you’d probably rather your mother never even imagine.

If you make it, though, the pay-offs are huge: You’ll be rewarded with unique insight into Nepali village life by living it from the inside out; you’ll experience every climate Nepal has to offer, from steamy jungles to jumbled glaciers; and if you’re lucky, you’ll make pre-dawn alpine starts to catch early morning views of 28,169 ft tall Mt. Kangchenjunga before the afternoon clouds close in at each of its two base camps.

Get a Fixer

Many independent travelers recoil at the thought of hiring a guide, but the Taplejung district of Nepal is a truly remote corner of the world.

Unless you know the Nepali for “I’m sorry to hear the airplane hasn’t been able to land in the fog for 15 days, can you please call your friend in the next village to book me a spot on the bus to Birtamod?” you’re really best off hiring a guide to accompany you from Kathmandu.

Find a trekking agency in Kathmandu that’s willing to provide just the basics: a permit, travel arrangements, and a guide who knows the area. Trek Nepal is a Nepali owned and operated outfitter located in the center of Thamel where you’ll always find someone ready to talk about adventure plans over a cup of tea.

Eating and Sleeping

The Kangchenjunga trekking loop connects just enough tiny villages to make traveling without a tent or cooking gear possible. Along the way, you’ll roll out your sleeping bag on bare wooden beds in basic teahouses frequented by porters or in family homes. High in the mountains, you’ll spend a few nights in stone huts used seasonally by yak herders.

If your guide doesn’t plan ahead, you may find yourself spending the occasional night in a cave.

Lunch and dinner on a Kangchenjunga trek will inevitably consist of dal (lentils) with baht (rice). Dinners are often augmented with a side of boiled potatoes or a spinach-like green vegetable. Dal baht can be surprisingly tasty and restorative after a long day of uphill trekking – don’t hesitate to ask for seconds and thirds.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

Breakfasts generally take the form of some combination of eggs, crispy pan fried chapati, and instant noodle soup.

The alcoholic beverage of choice is tongba: a bitter drink made from hot water, fermented corn, rice, and millet and sipped through a straw from what looks like a miniature butter churn.

It’s possible to negotiate rates for food and lodging as you go, but you won’t save much and you’ll always be left wondering who came out on top.

A wiser alternative is to pay a lump sum to the trekking agency to cover food and lodging. This will make it in the guide’s best interest to negotiate fair deals, and it will leave you free to enjoy the trip.

What to Pack

Pack light and try to fit everything in a large daypack. Bring a sleeping bag rated to at least 0º F/20º C, a sleeping pad, and warm clothes including a hat and gloves.

The key to beating Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is to drink lots of water, so each trekker should carry bottles with at least 2 liters of capacity. Safe, boiled water from locals is a good way to fill bottles and make friends, but plan on bringing a few bottles of iodine tablets or a similar treatment option to fill in the gaps.

Even with a guide, stay oriented and carry a map. The Himalayan Maphouse publishes an excellent topographic map called ‘Kangchenjunga – Base Camp Trail’ covering the entire area in 1:100,000 scale.

photo by Andris Bjornson

Packing a few energy bars from Kathmandu to supply extra calories on particularly strenuous days is a good idea.

Finally, load up on medical supplies and know how to use them. If something goes wrong, medical help may be days away. Bring enough basic supplies like band-aids and antibiotic ointment so that you can treat locals you meet along the way. Don’t treat anything out of your depth, but be generous where you can.

Getting in and out:

Taplejung, district capital of Nepal’s Taplejung district, is the closest town to Mt. Kangchenjunga accessible by road or air. Each option – driving or flying – is an adventure in itself.

Since you’ll probably visit Taplejung exactly once in your life the best plan is probably to try one on the way in, and the other on the way out.

By Air

A Royal Nepal Airlines Twin Otter makes two weekly flights from Biratnagar (Nepal’s second largest city) to Suketar (Taplejung’s airport). Flights depart at 7am to beat mountain weather and only hold 18 passengers, so book ahead.

The spectacular flight offers views of snow capped Himalayan peaks to the north and ends with a hair-raising landing on an airstrip floating above the clouds.

Jovial Nepalis laugh at every turbulent bump which helps ease the tension. Cross your fingers on the takeoff: if the pilot comes up short it’s a 1,000 ft tumble to the valley floor in Taplejung.

By Bus

The paved Mahendra Highway connects Kathmandu with the small transit hub of Birtamod on its way to northeastern India. The paved road north from here to Taplejung goes as far as the tea growing town of Ilam before deteriorating to a rough dirt track.

Fortunately, Nepalis think nothing of taking an overloaded bus down roads that a westerner would think twice about exploring in a 4×4. Conditions have a significant effect on travel times, and the Birtamod/Taplejung trip will likely take more than a day.

Costs

I paid $900 for what ended up being a 21 day trip. Included in that was a Royal Nepal Air ticket from Kathmandu to Biratnagar (USD 91) and from Biratnagar to Suketar (USD 65). The remaining cost breaks out to about $35/day for food, lodging, and guide.

Trip Length / Schedule

It’s a 7 day hike from Suketar (the closest airport) to Ghunsa (the first point where you really start popping out over the tree line). If you’re a mountain seeker looking to get up into alpine territory, a trip shorter than 14 days to this region may not be rewarding.

If you’re there for the village life, and don’t mind spending most of your time at the lower jungle elevations it could still be a great spot for a week long trek. There’s a holy shrine to the goddess Pathibhara Devi on a high hilltop within two days walk of Suketar where there’s a Buddhist lamp lighting ceremony on every full moon.

If you only had a week, this would be my recommendation:

Day 1: Fly to Biratnagar
Day 2: Fly to Suketar/walk to Deurali
Day 3: Hike to Pathibhara, and from here, on to Chhiruwa
Day 4: Hike to Lingkhim
Day 5: Hike to Suketar
Day 6: Fly to Kathmandu via Biratnagar

Community Connection!

Matador’s Nepal expert, Grady, is a documentary film-maker who grew up and went to international school in Kathmandu.

Several Nepali NGOs have profiles on Matador, including the Center For Cultural Studies and Volunteering.

The extraordinary Everest Peace Project, which brought a team of Israeli and Palestinian mountaineers to the summit of Everest, was recently featured in Matador’s Traverse magazine.

Are you thinking of visiting Nepal? Dive into the Matador community and make the connections you need for a life-changing trip.