Photo by Elsie McIverSelling organic produce

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then France just might be the word worth a thousand pictures.

The world’s most popular tourist destination manages to seduce a lot of people, be it because of the language, the countryside, the French joie de vivre or simply the wine. But France is more than the glittering lights of the Eiffel Tower and a Nutella slathered baguette.

One of the best ways to dive into French culture is to spend time in a rural community. If you are willing to work for your room and board, you can often score a pretty inexpensive French vacation with the added bonus of getting to truly enjoy the local way of life.

Instead of re-packing your backpack every few days and only seeing various tourist attractions, you get the chance to have a semi-permanent base camp, integrate into the local community, practice your French language skills and experience authentic French culture.

From working on vineyards and farms to restoring medieval castles, here is your guide to discovering France from the inside, getting you away from glossy tourist brochures and into the everyday rhythm of la vie française.

photo by Elsie McIver

Working the land

What is more symbolic of the French lifestyle than wine and gastronomy? The two are integral parts of the French economy, and more importantly, French tradition.

France prides itself on agriculture and wine production; taking part in either of the two therefore means not just consuming the delicious drink and food that France has to offer, but helping to produce it.

A popular and relatively hassle-free way to do farm or vineyard work is to join World-Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF). For a small registration fee you get access to a whole network of farms across France; to make your life even easier, they let you pay with Paypal.

The registration fee gives you access to the WWOOF France guidebook, published in paper (25€) as well as in an online format (15€). The guide contains listings of over 300 participating farms that you can contact and at which you can volunteer.

Time commitment varies from farm to farm; some want workers for only a few days or weeks and others want you to stick around several months. Working as a WWOOFer means you will get free room and board in exchange for labor, and you’ll probably end up working with some other interesting travelers from all around the world.

Beyond vineyards and farms

Agricultural work might not be your life passion, but there are still several options for seeing rural France up close and personal – and cheap. One way is to partake in an archeological excavation or work on an historic site.

photo by Elsie McIver

There are several organizations that put together these kinds of work-trips, and although they require fees, they are minimal in exchange for the room, board and local experiences that you receive.

Workcamps through Service Civil International (SCI) require an application fee of $235. Although you are responsible for paying all travel expenses, room and board is covered. The two to three week volunteer projects range from environmental protection to renovating medieval castles.

Volunteers for Peace, based out of Vermont, offers over 300 programs in France for the upcoming summer months. The average project length is about three weeks and costs $300 plus a $30 VFP annual membership fee.

If you want to spend your summer in romantic Provence check out La Sabrenenque which offers volunteer restoration projects of architectural sites. The two week program costs $710 for 2 weeks, which includes room and board as well as organized activities and excursions.

Where do I go?

France is a big country with many regions, traditions, and even climates. So how do you pick where to explore?

For wine lovers, remember that in France wine is named by the region it comes from. If your favorite wine is a Bordeaux, makes plans to head to the southwest. Or how about the smooth taste of Burgundy? Look no farther than the vineyards of east-central France.

The exception to the rule is with white wines, which are named after the grape used to make them. If you want an in-depth discovery of white wine, look no farther than Alsace, in northeastern France; this is where the best white wine in all of France comes from.

Comment voulez-vous gouverner un pays qui a deux cent quarante-six variétés de fromage? In the words of Charles de Gaulle, “How can you govern a country with 246 varieties of cheese?”

It’s true: France has a lot of cheese, and if you have difficulty governing the country, you’ll definitely have difficulty choosing where to go.

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Normandy is home to the infamous Camembert, and also superb crepes and hard cider. Savoie, a region in the French Alps, produces Roblochon. Comté is another popular cheese – in fact it has the highest production figures of all French cheeses – and is made in the region of Franche-Comté.

photo by Elsie McIver

For all of the French cheeses, check out this helpful list at Wikipedia.

Another way to decide your destination is by way of gastronomy. Cuisine varies from region to region in France, and every one has its specialty. Southern France has more Mediterranean influence, lots of vegetables, fish and olive oil, while the northeast sticks to its heavier German roots with delicacies like sausages and sauerkraut.

Remember that the great thing about France is that anywhere you go their will always be a selection of wine, cheese, regional specialties and locals that are proud of where they live.

Exploring on your own

After a few weeks of working or volunteering, you might want to take off on your own French adventure. One of the most inexpensive ways to explore France, and especially the wine regions, is by bicycle.

Alsace and the Champagne region are two ideal places for wine and wheels; they both feature “wine routes,” roads weaving through the vineyard dense countryside, and villages are close together, meaning your cycling days don’t have to be overly strenuous.

Here you can pedal from village to village, or vineyard to vineyard, take in an afternoon tasting and get a room for the night.

For inexpensive accommodations, many regional tourist offices offer rooms chez l’habitant, basically in the room of a local villager’s house. These provide an excellent, and inexpensive, way to enjoy rural French hospitality.

In terms of budget, life is a little easier if you have a travel partner; rooms chez l’habitant can run as low as 40€ per night for two people, and usually include a homemade breakfast complete with fresh croissants.

photo by Elsie McIver WWOOF farm

Getting around

Transportation is an inevitable cost, even if you manage to score free room and board by doing some WWOOFing, but there are a few ways to get good deals.

If you are under 25 years old and planning on traveling in France for an extended period of time, you may want to consider getting a SNCF 12-25 card. The card costs 49€ but gets you up to 60% off all train ticket purchases. Valid for one year, you are guaranteed a minimum of 25% off normal ticket prices.

If your stay in France is shorter, or you are over 25, try to buy your tickets in advance. Although SNCF sometimes offers last minute promotions, you will have an easier time getting a good deal on a ticket if you plan ahead.

The TGV Europe website is also helpful in planning train trips, but keep in mind that to get to smaller destinations in France you will most likely need to take a regional train at least once during your adventure.

Comment dit-on…???

Often, a big concern of traveling to France is whether or not your dusty high school French is going to cut it. Some volunteer programs require participants to have a certain level of French, but for the most part as long as you keep an open mind, a pocket dictionary and use merci, bonjour, and a repertoire of hand gestures, you should be able to do just fine.

Once you and your hosts have had a few glasses of wine you’ll find that language suddenly becomes unimportant.

Community Connection

Finding a Matador Traveler with some France experience isn’t too difficult. Elsiek, who graciously provided the photos for this article, spent several months WWOOFing in southern France. If you’re stopping in Paris on your way to rural France, check out jgbrandt’s article How to Enjoy Paris on $100 a Day.

Naturally heated pool, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

If you thought the Caribbean was all about cruise ship and cocktails, think again.

Often bypassed for more touristy destinations, with only 40,000 or so inhabitants, Dominica is small but charming, the ideal spot for a romantic getaway.

Dominica is mountainous, and the towns boast a friendly, rustic elegance. Countless jungle trails lead to waterfalls and steaming hot springs. Don’t expect to lounge in a beach chair; Dominica is all about exploring, getting dirty and embracing romantic discovery.

Orientation

Middleham Falls, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

The Commonwealth of Dominica lies in the middle of the Lesser Antilles, with Guadeloupe to the north and Martinique to the south. Roseau, the capital, is on the southwestern side, facing the Caribbean.

Getting to Dominica can take some planning. There are two airports on the island, Canefield near Roseau and Melville Hall on the northeastern side, but flights can be expensive.

Neighboring islands Martinique and Guadeloupe are better hubs for connecting flights to North America and Europe. From there you can take a ferry through L’Express des Iles, which will take you to the Port of Roseau.

Dominica uses the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD). Many places accept US dollars, but this can lead to confusion and paying more than you need to. In Roseau there are several ATMs which make getting cash easy. Exchange rate (as of April 23, 2008) is 1 USD= 2.67 XCD.

If you stay in a small guesthouse, plan to budget about $30-60 USD per night for a double. Eco-lodges and resorts run a little more expensive and can range anywhere from $50-$250 per night for a double.

Dominican Hospitality

Strangers will greet you with a friendly smile and an additional “be cool maaan.”

To take advantage of this ambiance, stay in a local guesthouse. Despite a small population, people all over the island open up their houses and beds to tourists. You can expect a genuine morning “how are you” and breakfast, complete with a glass of passion fruit or sorrel juice.

In Roseau, your best bets are Ma Bass Guest House and St. James Guest House. For a more romantic getaway, nothing compares with one of the eco-lodges.

Dominica has become a hot spot for the adventurous travelers who stay in charming but authentic rainforest lodges. On the east side of the island, near Rosalie, check out the 3 River Eco Lodge. This lodge also owns the adjacent Rosalie Forest Lodge which can hook you up with a treehouse, a Creole cooking class, or even a local homestay.

Close to popular Trafalgar Falls is Papillote Wilderness Retreat, which offers four hot spring pools and a yard with clucking chickens and preening peacocks.

The Perfect 10 day Itinerary

10 days on a small island can seem like a long time, but once you fall into the chill swing of things you might wish for 10 weeks.

For a good introduction to Dominica, you’ll want to have at least 2 days to hang out and explore Roseau. Stay in the city for 5 nights and use the other days for day-trip excursions.

After you’ve have your fill of “city” living, work your way up north for 2 nights in Calibishie. If you haven’t made it to Portsmouth yet, now is the time.

For your last 3 days, explore the Carib Territory and the eastern side of the island. Take a drive down to La Plaine; this section of road takes you along an impressive section of Atlantic coastline where you’ll feel like you’re in Pirates of the Caribbean.

Relaxing in Roseau

Roseau is tiny by capital city standards, but there’s lots to do. Botanical gardens, zouk music bars, fried chicken, and colorful daily markets are only the beginning.

Roseau can also be used as a base camp; from here you can easily take day trips to Champagne Beach, Scott’s Head, Trafalgar Falls, Emerald Pool, Soufrière Springs, Boiling Lake and maybe even try some whale watching.

Staying in the capital also allows you to take advantage of a variety of restaurants and bars after a day of exploring; what better way to enjoy a strenuous day’s hike than drinking a fresh Kubuli while watching the sun set over the Caribbean Sea?

Valley of Desolation, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

Welcome to the Jungle

If you’re in the mood for something more secluded, reserve a few days for a stay in the jungle; there’s nothing more romantic than holing up in the heart of tropical trees and waterfalls.

Dominica’s various lodges and cabins are ideal for this; you’ll be nestled into your own tropical wonderland, free to explore the surrounding areas. If the beach is calling you, make your way up to the fishing village of Calibishie, which features the only sand beach on the island.

Here you can spend a few days lounging around and taking part in the local fishing life, complete with seafood dinner with a view.

Take time to plan for some of the top excursions that are Dominican favorites: Boiling Lake, Scott’s Head which is known for some excellent diving and snorkeling, the Carib Territory – home to the indigenous population of Dominica – and finally, the northern city of Portsmouth and Fort Shirley.

Hot Springs and Waterfalls

Maybe the most romantic aspect of Dominica is the plethora of waterfalls and hot springs. Known as the “nature island” Dominica offers a pristine Caribbean wilderness. In fact, Dominica is the only island in the Lesser Antilles with a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Most of Dominica’s environmental attractions are in Mornes Trois Pitons National Park and therefore require an eco-tourism site pass. Single site passes can be purchased for $5 XCD, usually close to the site. Unlimited week passes are $26 XCD.

From Roseau you can reach most of the major waterfalls and outdoor attractions, although some take longer hikes to get to than others.

Trafalgar is the closest to the capital and therefore the most crowded; go in the morning to avoid the mid-day crowds that flock in from harbored cruise ships.

For a more secluded hike, put Middleham Falls on your list. The most popular trail access is from Laudat and consists of a winding jungle path that takes you through the depths of the Caribbean flora and fauna before arriving at the impressive Middleham Falls.

Because of the longer hike to get to the falls, Middleham is less frequented.

On the east side of the island you will find hikes to both Sari Sari and Victoria Falls; both are classified as medium to difficult, but well worth the effort. Keep in mind that the trails can often be slippery and tiring; you’ll need sturdy shoes and some sustenance.

Pick up a few baguettes, fresh fruit and a loaf of homemade banana bread at one of the local stores before hitting the trail.

Volcanoes and Spas

Emerald Pool, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

Beyond waterfalls, Dominica is one of the youngest islands in the Lesser Antilles, meaning that its volcano base is constantly changing the landscape.

Active volcanoes mean a wealth of natural hot and sulfur springs scattered around the island. One of the island’s favorite natural hot springs is Screw Spas in Wotten Waven – just up the valley from Roseau – run by a quirky man with dreads and a constant smile.

For more luxurious spa destinations check out Rainforest Paradise, Jungle Bay Resort and Spa and Rainforest Shangri-La Resort which offer luxurious specialties like aromatherapy massages, mud scrubs and yoga.

Chowing Down

With all the physical activity that your Dominican adventure will entail, there’s no question you will build up an appetite. The staple Dominican diet consists of a hearty amount of chicken, rice, plantain and manioc root.

Roseau offers a variety of restaurants from traditional Caribbean to Chinese. Fresh fruit is served as is or pressed into juices, and you can’t come away from Dominica without a new addiction to passion fruit juice.

For a quick bite, many roadside “snackettes” offer a selection of meat pies and sandwiches; the best ones made with a codfish. These are often the best places to get the low-down on local life. Stop in, buy a sandwich and a local Kubuli beer and prepare for a story.

Getting Around

Mini-van ‘buses’ run often and are dependable. If you want to explore independently at a slow pace, renting a car is a good way to go. Remember that Dominicans drive on the left side of the road.

Dominican law requires a Dominican driver’s license, which costs $12 XCD. Pick one up at the car rental agencies. Keep in mind that 4 wheel drive vehicles are helpful but not necessary, but beware of the many potholes which cover the roadways, and you’ll be driving on the left hand side of the road!

Other sources of information

Once you start doing some research, you will find that many Dominican websites look like they were made in the early 90s; don’t hold it against them, the information they contain is up to date and helpful. Good places to start are A Virtual Dominica, Discover Dominica and Visit Dominica.

You can also check out Dominica: The Nature Island of the Caribbean an online book which I designed and wrote last spring.

Community Connection!

Having hitchhiked across the Caribbean, Matador traveler anthonygatti knows his stuff about a lot of the islands. Deva has spent the last month in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, giving a good insider perspective to Caribbean travel that doesn’t include cruise ships.