1. Coast redwoods don’t get as wide as their cousins the giant sequoia, but 26-foot diameters can hardly be considered second rate.
Photo: M. D. Vaden of Oregon

2. Where redwoods leave the sequoias behind is height. These are the tallest trees on the planet, with the highest so far measured reaching 379.1 feet. That’s over 70 feet taller than the Statue of Liberty, taking into account pedestal and foundation.
Photo: lunaport

3. And, stats aside, they’re just awesome to look at.
Photo: mason bryant

4. “Cathedral trees” sprout from a shared base, like these in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.
Photo: rachel_thecat

5. The canopy of a redwood grove, out of sight of both earth and sky, has been described as an “unexplored ecosystem.”
Photo: *~Dawn~*

6. The locations of the most serious trees and groves are kept secret, to protect both the redwoods and inexperienced hikers who might otherwise seek them out. This is one such tree, Screaming Titans, in the Grove of Titans, Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park.
Photo: H Dragon

7. A stitch job from the Grove of Titans.
Photo: H Dragon

8. Dwarfed by nature.
Photo: Shayan (USA)

9. A stout trunk from Jedediah Smith.
Photo: joannapoe

10. We treat our redwoods better today than they did in the 1930s. Still, if you ever wanted to drive through a tree, here ya go.
Photos: lostintheredwoods (left), nagobe (right)

11. A shot aptly titled, “give up, we have you surrounded.”
Photo: adrian207

12. There’s no doubt that trees bigger than today’s record holders were logged over the last century+. It’s not clear whether this was a coast redwood or giant sequoia, only that it was ginormous (note the team of horses on top).
Photo: David C. Foster

Community Connection

Get an image of redwood stealth camping in David Miller’s 11 tracks, 3 interludes, and how they define a road / surf trip from Seattle to San Francisco.

A new addition at Hotel Costa Verde

People seem to have an innate fascination with conceptualizing wacky hotels, as well as paying hard-earned money to sleep in them.

Last year, Trips introduced you to Igloos, Castles, Sewage Pipes, and Survival Pods: The World’s 10 Weirdest Hotels. But there’s so much more material out there we felt it was time for a sequel.

Flipping the mattress on transport

Check out some of these vehicles-turned-swank-crash-pads, as profiled by divine caroline:

Photo courtesy of The Grand Daddy

* Cape Town, South Africa’s Grand Daddy hotel brings something new to the penthouse crowd. They’ve reclaimed and creatively redecorated seven Airstream travel trailers and dropped them on the hotel roof.

* In Christchurch, New Zealand, Wagon Stays offers all the perks of a studio apartment (kitchen, bathroom, bed, plus TV and Internet) in the confines of a mock-up, settler-era covered wagon.

The site is far out enough to give you “rural” views but still close to restaurants and stores. It’s marketed as “eco friendly.”

* As Tom Gates recently inquired over at Matador Nights, Pimp My Jet?

Yes, the Hotel Costa Verde, located just outside Costa Rica’s Manuel Antonio National Park, has created a two-bedroom suite out of a salvaged Boeing 727.

* Sticking to the airborne theme is Winivan, a complex of luxury cottages in Connecticut. One of their properties includes a refurbished Coast Guard helicopter, complete with kitchen, sofa, and swiveling pilot’s chair.

* Lots of trains have sleeper cars, but not like this. The Controversy B&B in Hoogwoud, Holland, has a bed made out of an old rowboat and a Jacuzzi in the shape of “a Mexican sombrero.” Check out their promo video:

Sleep with the fishes

Now over to Woman’s Day and a list of accommodations below the waves:

* Jules’ Undersea Lodge, off the coast of Key Largo, Florida, claims to be “the first and only underwater hotel” (the others in this list have yet to open). It’s also the site of ongoing marine research projects.

This place is for real — to enter, guests scuba down 21 feet to the “moon pool” entrance. Quarters are tight, with two small bedrooms and a common room available. Groups of up to six people can be accommodated.

Jules’ Undersea Lodge / Photo: Mi-Wu

* If you want under-ocean views and luxury, you’ve gotta wait till next year, when two pretty spectacular-looking properties are set to open (or so go the rumors).

The first is Fiji’s Poseidon Undersea Resort. The facility will be a mile long, decked out with a restaurant and suites all featuring windows on the water and the abundant marine life outside.

You’ll only scuba here if you choose to — access is via a more “civilized” 40-foot elevator. Guests can also tool around in a mini-sub.

* I’m not sure I could think of a less obvious location for an underwater resort than Istanbul, which is also supposedly building a submerged hotel. The seven-story structure will have plenty of windows from which to admire the average ten feet of visibility in the Bosphorus Strait.

Community Connection

How about a hostel in a jet? Check out the World’s Most Unique Lodging: A Look Inside the Jumbo Hostel.

If you enjoyed the video in this post, head over to browse the best travel video on the web at MatadorTV.

Photo: Lets Bike It

This past August, Trips introduced the World’s Best Stargazing Destinations. Included in the list was Scotland, which Matador contributor Bob Riel noted has some of the darkest skies in Europe.

Now, the International Dark-Sky Association has named Galloway Forest Park as one of only a handful of locations on Earth that deserve it’s “dark skies park” designation. Out of a 24-point darkness rating system (24 being on the level of a photographer’s dark room), Galloway got a 23.

The park also scored points for its accessible location. It may be far from any light-polluting population center, but that doesn’t mean it’s ultra-remote. According to The Guardian’s coverage of the story, Galloway is easily visited from northern England, southern Scotland, and by ferry from Northern Ireland.

For more details, such as how to plan your own Scottish stargazing trip, visit the website of Dark Sky Scotland.

Community Connection

While you’re in the land of the kilt, make sure to check out Scotland’s Carbonated Cult: Irn-Bru.

Photo: loop_oh

Their list of “World’s Best Affordable Hotels” takes on five continents (though heavily weighted towards the U.S.) and nightly rates from $40 to $150.

I’m not familiar with Budget Travel, but I know if I clicked over expecting to get the scoop on cheap hotels, $150 price tags would be pretty disappointing — no matter how many Mongolian yurt spas or swimming pool waterfalls were promised me.

Short of a press trip, I can’t envision ever staying at Hotel Contempo in Managua, Nicaragua, for $130/night. Budget Travel recommends it for its teak furniture and a staff who can arrange day trips to an eco-reserve. My guess is you could get the same at a $10/bed hostel.

Only a handful of the 31 picks are even under $100, and half of these are in Southeast Asia.

Ranting aside…

A couple entries stood out (in a good way):

Poolside at The Pearl / Photo: Catchpenny

* El Cortez Cabana Suites, Las Vegas: A renovated motel, close to the Strip, with rooms from $42.

* Camping de Bordeaux Lac, France: One-bedroom lakeside cottages from $50. Sounds sweet.

* The Pearl Hotel, San Diego: Classic films screened weekly by the pool, rooms from $79.

Also, fans of the boutique hostel might want to check out Oops!, located near Paris’s Latin Quarter.

Community Connection

What’s the upper limit of your “affordable”? Have any favorite places that fit the bill? Let us know in the comments.

Photo above: octal, Feature photo: Joi

Slow to the punch, I was recently directed to an article from The Independent published in April of this year: The dark side of Dubai.

It’s the story of a failed experiment in city/utopia building, where the global economic crisis has emptied malls and hotels and halted nearly all construction — this in a city that gave rise to the oft-repeated (and oft-debunked) factoid that it employees a quarter of the world’s construction cranes.

According to the article, Dubai has failed not only economically, but also socially. Emiratis (who make up just 5% of the population) are educated up to the PhD level at no cost, while armies of impoverished foreign laborers live in bondage and lack clean drinking water. Anyone who raises a critical voice is deported (expats), financially ruined (Emiratis), or imprisoned (foreign workers).

Jaw Dropped

It’s a shocking account. And it’s almost too much to believe.

I’ll admit my immediate reaction leaned toward skepticism. Part of it is that — to me — Johann Hari’s writing comes off scripted, the neatly framed and overly witty words of someone who knew what he wanted to write before he stepped off the plane.

And part of it is that I simply hope the picture he paints isn’t accurate.

Photo: ● Creative Ξye ●● ÂĻŜuЩaίĐί ●

* A slave labor system where South Asian construction workers and East African housekeepers are lured to Dubai by third-party recruiters, only to have their passports confiscated, promised wages halved or withheld, and every waking hour conscripted.

* A body of expats that delight in the hedonism the socioeconomic order allows them, living with a constant buzz on and complaining that there are too many Indians throwing themselves in front of their SUVs in a last-ditch effort to escape the system.

* An ocean — Dubai’s biggest tourist draw — darkened with raw sewage as the delicate, super-arid environment begins to collapse under the weight of forced modernity.

Please tell me these caricatures were lifted from some sci-fi dystopia, not the streets of reality.

Speak Up

Matador Abroad’s Tim Patterson already put out a call for on-the-ground voices from Dubai. I’d like to renew that invitation — though, if The Independent’s article is any indication, those voices will probably need to be “recently-left-the-ground.”

Have you traveled to or lived in Dubai? How does your experience square with The Independent’s exposé of the city’s “dark side“?

Speak up in the comments, or email me directly at hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com to discuss telling your story in a Trips feature.

Photo: emutree

Getting on the water has always been a “must” for visitors to Venice, whether springing for a romantic gondola tour or simply hopping on a vaporetto waterbus. The canals define the city, and experiencing them from water level can be a lot of fun.

The company Venice Kayak has recently taken that idea in a new direction, offering guided kayak tours through the maze of waterways that comprise the floating city.

In a piece for The Guardian titled Kayaking in Venice: who needs a gondola?, Teresa Machan shares her story of paddling the Grand Canal, getting cut off by gondolas, and disembarking for gelato breaks.

Photo: ezioman

As Machan relates, the tours also take you out of the boat traffic and into the surrounding marshes of Laguna Veneta that otherwise can be difficult to explore as a tourist.

On the lagoon’s little islands are abandoned monasteries, insane asylums, military facilities, and other forgotten and slightly spooky sites to explore.

Venice Kayak’s accommodation options include camping near its headquarters on the sandbar of Lido de Venezia, a half hour paddle from the city.

Kayaking and camping…not typically what you think of for a Venice vacation.

Community Connection

While in Venice, save some euros with the tips from Sightseeing in Venice for (Almost) Free.

Photo: Cessna 206

Trips has already introduced you to America’s Most Dangerous Neighborhoods, rankings that were based on crime statistics.

Sometimes, though, people don’t need to go out of their way to imperil the lives of those around them. Mother Nature’s pretty good at that, too.

Popularmechanics.com takes up the issue with 8 of the Most Dangerous Places (To Live) on the Planet — human habitations facing very real threats from volcanoes, killer storms, desertification, and more.

Here’s what they got:

Photo: ctsnow

Mt. Merapi, Java

This active volcano’s constant smoke belching is a tipoff — it’s averaged 12 eruptions per century over the last 500 years. Still, 200,000 people live within an ominously short four miles of “Fire Mountain.”

And they’re not alone. The article claims as many as 120 million Javanese reside inside the danger zones of the island’s 22 active volcanoes.

Central Africa’s Lake Kivu is on the list as well due to the region’s seismic-volcanic instability that threatens to unleash trillions of cubic feet of poison gases trapped beneath the lakebed.

This phenomenon isn’t confined to Asia, either. For months in 2008-9, southern Chile’s Chaitén volcano blew its top. Residents of nearby Esquel, Argentina, where I volunteered earlier this year, tell of a months-long period of ash-mud raining from the sky and the necessity of HazMat suits whenever stepping outside.

Still, a handful of residents in the town of Chaitén have refused to leave.

Maldives

With an elevation peak of six feet above sea level, the 1,190 islands of the Maldives are demonstrating the effects of climate change today.

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami rendered 10% of the nation’s land area uninhabitable, and since then local leaders have been hammering out plans to relocate the entire Maldivian population.

The Maldives / Photo: notsogoodphotography

The islands are still considered a beach-bum hot spot, but you’d better hurry if you want to catch a glimpse before they literally vanish.

Grand Cayman

Other potential casualties of global climate change are places already at high risk of violent storms.

That obviously includes the Cayman Islands’ Grand Cayman, otherwise known as the “hurricane capital of the world.”

For proof, you need look no further back than 2004, when Hurricane Ivan destroyed 70% of the buildings on the island and left 40,000 residents with zero power and clean water.

The Haitian city of Gonaïves also makes the list for its recent streak of hurricane bad luck, and Oklahoma’s I-44 “tornado corridor” gets a nod as well.

Verkhoyansk, Siberia

Long-time favorite exile spot for Russian czars and Soviet premiers alike, the Arctic town of Verkhoyansk is officially the world’s coldest, a distinction that carries its own terminology: the “Pole of Cold.”

The record-low temperature was mercuried over 100 years ago (long before meteorologists thought up the concept of wind chill): -90F/-68C.

Photo: Kiwi Mikex

Minqin County, China

Drought, water diversion, and a position directly between the encroaching Tengger and Badain Jaran Deserts likely spells annihilation for this section of China’s Gansu province.

The national government has been making efforts to relocate farmers to greener pastures, but the area’s population is swelling, now at 2+ million.

Have you been to any of these or other “days-are-numbered” destinations? Did you get any insight into why their inhabitants continue to live where they do? Share your stories in the comments.

Community Connection

Here are some more titles for your “most dangerous” fix:

Top 10 Most Dangerous Waves in the World

The World’s Most Dangerous Hike?

Food for Thought – the Most dangerous Cities in the Americas?

11 Most Dangerous Mountains in the World for Climbers

The Best, Strangest, and Most Dangerous Roads in the World

All photos: Mei-Ling McNamara

Each of the Matador community’s more than 10,000 members is well-traveled, whether in body or soul. But some of them really get around.

Meet Mei-Ling McNamara.

Currently based in London, she’s worked as a volunteer on projects in Thailand. At present, she’s researching a new travel guide to Senegal.

And she also happens to be our destination expert on Madagascar:

I lived in Southern Madagascar for over three years (2003-2006), working primarily in radio development and travel guidebook writing. Any queries relating to travel or volunteer work in Madagascar can be answered as best as possible!

Here’s a bit more about Mei-Ling, which you can also find on her community profile:

About me: My Chinese mother and Irish father are the opposing, complementary forces that harmonize my life. I believe that every experience, and how you react to it, changes and creates who you are, bringing a distinct energy to the world.

I’m fired up on: Local projects that empower communities; writing that snares an elusive, fleeting moment; waking to the desert at dawn; watching the Sahara at dusk; seeing the faces of my family and friends after a long journey; arriving in a new place with no plans and a wide, open mind.

I felt the most immersed in a foreign culture when: I rode on a bush taxi with eighty people across Madagascar for 72 hours non-stop. No sleep, no real food, and a lot of Celine Dion blasting out of two broken speakers. Our truck overturned into a ravine once, and we had to crawl out of the window.

Most recently, Mei-Ling was announced as the winner of Matador’s Discover Dominica contest, scoring a trip for two to the untouched Caribbean island of Dominica.

She’s also written for us, producing articles like:

10 Tips For Safe Travel as a Single Woman

Tips for staying healthy while volunteering abroad

A passion for people: Owen Beaton and The Tandroy Conservation Trust

Hands of the Child: the Diola Drummers of Casamance

I could go on. But all you need to know is this: If you have questions on Madagascar you’d like answered, you know who to ask. Help is just a click and a private message away.

Community Connection

Curious about a different destination? Chances are we have an expert for you. Find them here.

Photo: chadmagiera

For years, Iceland was considered one of the most expensive countries for travelers.

More recently, it became a high-profile casualty of the world’s financial woes, famously declaring bankruptcy just over a year ago.

Now look at it. It’s been named by Lonely Planet as the #1 economic tourist destination of 2010. Says LP,

Have you always wanted to discover this magical, mysterious country? To explore ice caps and volcanoes, and wallow in hot springs? Been put off because of the prohibitive prices? Well, 2010 is your year.

Get the full story from AFP here.

Another out-of-placer on the list is London, which — as Trips reported previously — is no longer burning through your travel dollar.

Presumably we’re working on a relative scale here (I mean, Iceland has a ways to go before hitting the bargain basement of Thailand, #2). In other words, these destinations are steals compared to what they cost just a few years ago.

So it’ll still take some careful planning to tour Iceland’s fire and ice and throw down on the Reykjavik Rúntur without blowing your budget for the flight home.

Community Connection

Will Lonely Planet’s “bargain” list influence your travel decisions? Let us know in the comments below.

At the summit of Huascarán, Peru / Photo: RastaChango

UNESCO has granted World Heritage status to 890 global “properties.” With a collection this expansive, there’s gotta be about 800 sites the average person has never heard of.

It’s a fact the Telegraph takes up with its photo essay Obscure World Heritage Sites, comprising profiles of 20 lesser-known destinations that UNESCO felt deserved the same level of protection as the Taj Mahal or Angkor Wat.

I found these of particular interest:

Huascarán National Park, Peru

The park protects the tallest tropical mountains in the world, the Cordillera Blanca, with peaks as high as 6,768 meters (22,200 feet). Glacial lakes and species such as the Andean condor and spectacled bear define the area.

As a tropical glacial region, this World Heritage Site is one of the places in the world most vulnerable to climate change.

Defence Line of Amsterdam, the Netherlands

Back in the late 19th century, the plan was to seal off Amsterdam in case of attack. This would be done by flooding an intricate system of canals in and around the city.

The defence line was never used, but the moats and the 45 armed forts built to guard the system have been well preserved and can be visited today.

Photo: marfis75

Okapi Wildlife Reserve, Democratic Republic of Congo

Only 30,000 okapi (think body of a deer, legs of a zebra, head of a giraffe) remain in the wild, and 5,000 of these are found in the Okapi Wildlife Reserve. Nomadic pygmy tribes also call this region of the Congo river basin home.

Along with the four other World Heritage Sites in the DRC, the reserve is flagged as “in danger.”

Cyrene, Libya

Though few have heard of it today, Cyrene was a major metropolitan center in ancient Greek times. Its importance continued into the Roman period, until it was destroyed by earthquake in A.D. 365. Now it’s one of the world’s lesser-known ruins.

Białowieża Forest, Belarus

Europe was once covered by old-growth forest. Today, there’s only one place you can go to get an idea of what it was like: this stretch of woodland along the Belarus-Poland border. Protected animals within the forest include wolves, lynxes, and the recently reintroduced European bison.

Białowieża’s World Heritage status goes back to 1979, only the second year in which designations were made. This says something about the significance UNESCO sees in it.

For the rest of the 20, make sure to check out the original photo essay here.

Community Connection

The Trips post 13 of Asia’s Most Spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Sites includes some places you probably have heard of. We also bring you the latest news on the subject in 13 Additions to the UNESCO World Heritage List (and One Deletion).

UNESCO isn’t the only organization making these kinds of designations. Find out what the World Monuments Fund considers to be 2010’s Most Endangered Cultural Sites.

Photo: Robert S. Donovan

Community Connection

For more cemetery shots, don’t miss yesterday’s Photo Essay: Graveyards by Night.

1. Bedfordshire, England
Photo: L-plate big cheese

2. Anonymous lonely gravestone
Photo: new chap

3. Mountain View Cemetery, Shrewsbury, MA
Photo: WhitA

4. Jewish Cemetery in Pszczyna, Poland
Photo: Jacek Becela

5. Upper Riccarton, Christchurch, New Zealand
Photo: the evil monkey

6. Monmouth County, NJ
Photo: Sister72

7. Sheffield, England
Photo: polandeze

8. Anonymous frosty cemetery
Photo: thomas.barker

9. Baltimore, MD
Photo: llimllib

10. Bedfordshire, England
Photo: L-plate big cheese

Community Connection

Creepy…spooky…scary:

Ghostbusting 101: 6 Myths Debunked by Loyd Auerbach

American Hauntings: 5 You Can Visit and Investigate Firsthand

5 Scariest Sites to Visit This Halloween

Getting into the Spirit: A Thai Halloween

How People Celebrate Halloween in Spain

Your editors, Hal (being ridiculous) and Carlo (saying wtf!?)

As the world’s largest independent travel magazine, Matador holds transparency as one of its core values.

Matador Network brings you dozens of stories each week straight from our own experiences and those of our contributors. They’re written by people who know the places and issues they’re covering, and are motivated to share that knowledge with an audience who appreciates it.

Here at Trips, transparency manifests itself in guides that cut the BS and tell you what you want to know about a destination. In other words, we’re not trying to “sell” you place, just show it to you.

We think it’s an approach that works. So, in the spirit of transparency…

We Want You to Know Who We Are

You can visit the Trips About page to learn about your editors, check out our bylines, scope our Matador profiles.

But the door opens further than that. Our web presence isn’t limited to Trips; we both keep personal blogs where we wax (usually unpoetically) about our travels, our lives, and what it’s like being an editor for Matador.

Hal’s is called WayWorded and is coming up on its two-year anniversary. Carlo maintains two: the eponymous Carlo Alcos and The Long Layover, where he’s chronicling his and his wife’s current lives in Melbourne.

And we’re not the only ones. To find links to the personal sites of everyone on the Matador team, scroll down to the sidebar list titled “Editor Blogs” on any article in the network.

We Want to Know Who You Are

Hal hiking Mt. Snowdon, Wales

That’s us. How about you?

There would be no Trips without its readers, so we want to know who you are and what’s in your head.

What Trips piece is your absolute favorite? Which article opened you up to a destination you’d never heard of or considered before? What made you laugh, sigh, smirk?

How can we improve?

We’ve put ourselves out there — now it’s your turn. Join the discussion by commenting on this or any other post, or email us your take directly at hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com and carlo[at]matadornetwork[dot]com.

We can’t wait to hear from you.

Photo: pasotraspaso

Mumbai, India

When you add up the equation “cycling” + “urban tourism,” you often assume “= Europe.” After all, the continent is home to many of the world’s most bike friendly cities.

Photo: zedvox

Places like Mumbai are looking to change the equation.

As reported in this New York Times travel blog post, a company called Odati Adventures has put together a “Mumbai City Cycle Ride.”

The focus is on commonly overlooked attractions — fitting, for as any avid cyclist knows, two-wheeled travel opens up all kinds of experiences that get passed over by the car-bound.

Leisure cycling in Mumbai still can’t be considered safe, which is why the tours run early on Sunday mornings, when traffic is most manageable.

But who knows — a successful cycle tour program could rewrite the city’s relationship with the bike.

Blackpool, England

With London set to unveil a monumental Paris-esque bike-hire scheme next summer, you’d expect it to be U.K. bicycle tourism’s front-page news.

Not if Blackpool has anything to say about it.

Also inspired by Paris’s groundbreaking Vélib’ program, this seaside resort town of 140,000 is launching an on-street bicycle rental system that will count 500 bikes by next spring.

Tourists are the primary target of the initiative and will be able to rent for a daily fee of £8.

However, it’s hoped Blackpool residents — who apparently suffer from extremely low rates of adult exercise — will take advantage as well. Swipe cards will be made available to commuters, providing a free half hour’s ride and charging £1/hour after that.

Photo: mrhayata

Tokyo, Japan

The urban mass of greater Tokyo is tied together by one of the city’s busiest subway routes, the circular Yamanote line.

More than 3.5 million passengers use the line each day, and to complete a journey around the loop takes a little over an hour.

What does this have to do with bicycles?

The New York Times recently featured a story by Harris Salat on a wonderfully novel concept: tracing the path of the Yamanote on two wheels.

Salat rented his ride through Cool Bike and made a three-day tour out of the 21-mile route, stopping frequently to experience the teahouses, gardens, tofu shops, sumo parades, riverside paths — in short, the classic Tokyo juxtaposition of tradition and modernity — he passed along the way.

While not an organized cycle tourism “development,” per se, his account makes for a good read, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it inspired copycat tours.

Hey, I’m game.

Community Connection

Matador loves bikes. You could spend a whole day digging through our bicycle-related content. Here’s a start:

10 Long-Distance Bicycle Routes in the U.S.

6 Reasons to Go By Bike

And They Stoned Me: The Joy Of Cycling Ethiopia

How To Be Good (Better) Drivers and Cyclists

8 Quirky Bike Rides across the U.S.

Bicycling the Pacific Coast and into the Great Beyond

Photo: The U.S. Army

You’ve been to remote jungle villages in Papua New Guinea, the desert expanses of the Sahara, even the frozen wasteland of Antarctica. Next, the stars?

To really experience the final frontier — today — you only have one option:

The International Space Station

Since November of 2000, the ISS has been continually occupied by rotating multinational “Expedition” crews. These men and women carry out scientific experiments and assist in the ongoing construction of the station, due to be completed by 2011.

Photo: FlyingSinger

For the most determined civilian space travelers, this is currently the ultimate goal — to journey to and live for a short time aboard the International Space Station.

In 2001, American Dennis Tito became the first true space tourist by doing just that.

He was shuttled to the ISS by the Russian Space Agency, on board a Soyuz spacecraft and with a small Russian crew, and spent seven days on the station.

A handful of other fee-paying space travelers have followed Tito, most recently Canadian Cirque du Soleil founder Guy Laliberté.

Logistics

Russia is still the only game in town for getting to the ISS. But you can’t just call the Kremlin and ask for a ride. All Soyuz trips are brokered by the American company Space Adventures.

Its space tourist program includes intensive astronaut/cosmonaut training — think zero-gravity jet flights, underwater spacewalk simulations, and spins in a high-g centrifuge — in addition to the flight and an average of 10 days on the station.

Cost

Photo: The U.S. Army

The exact amount paid by each Space Adventures client is not readily disclosed, but figures ranging from $20 to $30 million USD are most often tossed around.

For just $3 million, you can sit in on all the training, only to watch the Soyuz blast off without you.

Individual training exercises, “launch tours,” and other opportunities are available for much less.

ISS visitors are now able to participate in a spacewalk for an additional $15 million — so far, no one has accepted the challenge.

Sub-Orbital Flights

If you aren’t a dot-com billionaire or haven’t started your own interpretative circus troupe, there might still be hope for you.

Sub-orbital flights are the up-and-coming trend in space tourism, transporting passengers in small, airplane-like craft beyond the internationally recognized boundary of space (100km straight up).

Richard Branson is looking to take the lead in this. His Virgin Galactic has already pre-sold over 250 $200,000 tickets for flights that will begin at an as-of-yet-unspecified date.

Photo: Mike Miley

Virgin is the only company with the rights to SpaceShipTwo, successor to the Scaled Composites craft that won the Ansari X PRIZE back in 2004.

Weekly flights will launch from California’s Mojave Spaceport and carry six passengers to an altitude of 109km (68 miles), where they will experience several minutes of weightlessness and have views of twinkle-free stars and the curvature of Earth.

And Virgin’s not alone. Companies like Space Adventures and Armadillo Aerospace are also developing sub-orbital tourist flights to launch from spaceports around the world.

For a less elevated expedition, Incredible Adventures runs flights to what they refer to as “the edge of space” (21km/68,000ft) in a Russian MiG-31 fighter jet. While certainly not an extraterrestrial voyage, passengers do get a glimpse of black sky. Cost: $10,000+

What the Future Holds

The space tourism industry is advancing faster than most people realize. Within a decade or two, the well-heeled (and perhaps even you and I) will enjoy a variety of options for experiencing outer space. Detailed analysis of potential space tourism markets can be found here.

Photo: .Martin.

Resorts in space

One avenue being explored by several outfits, including Bigelow Aerospace and Galactic Suite, is the construction of space hotels. Bigelow already has two prototype modules in orbit.

By the time any orbiting resorts are ready for use, it’s estimated transport will cost around $20,000 per guest, plus tens of thousands more per night’s stay.

The Space Island Group takes things a step further, advertising plans to construct multiple independent orbiting “islands.” The islands will house

factories, hotels, medical centers, laboratories, zero-gravity sports arenas and satellite repair centers, along with dozens of other uses which can’t be imagined today.

They make the rather bold claim that 20,000 people will be inhabiting and working within their islands by the year 2020.

Photo: woodleywonderworks

Beyond Earth orbit

Space Adventures is stepping it up in this category as well. For a mere $100 million, you can sign up to be one of the first to take part in their circumlunar mission.

Following six to eight months of training, you’ll launch aboard a specially designed Soyuz craft and, depending on whether you make a pitstop at the ISS or not, spend 10 to 21 days in space.

The climax will come as you swing round the far side of the moon and experience the allegedly spiritual sight of earthrise.

Sound like a pipe dream? National Geographic reports this voyage could be ready to launch in three years.

The farther space tourism reaches, the cheaper the close-at-hand options will become. Here’s to adding Earth orbit to our travel itineraries within our lifetime.

Community Connection

Matador’s covered the concept of space travel in the past. For more, check out 6 Predictions For The Future Of Travel and Room for You…in Space.

Photos: smalldogonthego

Travel journalist and videographer Allison, a.k.a. smalldogonthego, has a history with the Dominican Republic going back to 2001, when she lived on the island while working on a baseball documentary.

She hasn’t been able to let go since:

I’m currently involved with a children’s non-profit…and have made a number of trips into the countryside and all over the island.

My areas of expertise would probably be Dominican baseball, Dominican food, the history of the country, getting off the beaten path, good shopping, and larimar (my favorite stone, found only in the Dominican Republic!).

Here’s a little more about this week’s featured expert:

About me: My travel essentials: yoga pants, hiking boots, running shoes, my video camera and my dog.
Languages spoken, other than English: Spanish, Italian.
I’m fired up on: adventure travel, filmmaking, yoga, running, volunteer tourism, my dog, the American Southwest, writing, working for The Travel Channel and doing what I love most!
Why I travel: because the world becomes my classroom

Visit Allison’s Matador profile to find out what you need to know before visiting the DR, or maybe just to ask about “running in the 7th inning sausage race at Milwaukee’s Miller Park dressed as a Bavarian sausage.”

Community Connection

Matador’s destination experts are just one facet of our vibrant travel community. Join today at matadortravel.com.

Photo: tinou bao

Every two years, the World Monuments Fund publishes a “watch list” of sites it deems most threatened, whether from encroaching development, global warming, or simple neglect.

The 2010 list has been released, and as Yahoo News reports, two of the more familiar entries are Machu Picchu and Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia cathedral.

As Trips has discussed before, the continued existence of the ruins of Machu Picchu is endangered by the thousands of tourists that visit each day. Erosion of their mountaintop perch could cause sections of the ruins to collapse within the next few years.

Photo: Wolfgang Staudt

Gaudi’s famous uncompleted cathedral faces a different kind of threat.

A proposed high-speed underground train line is planned to run just six feet from the foundation of one portion of the massive church; the vibrations from the passing trains could do considerable damage to the structure.

The monuments fund also reaches beyond big-name sites to single out places with a more local significance. The stone bridges of Connecticut’s Merritt Parkway make the list, as does New Orleans’ St. Louis Cemetery #2 — still in need of restoration following damage from Hurricane Katrina.

Breaking down the list by country, those with the most entries are the U.S. (10), Peru (8), and Spain (6).

The World Monuments Fund partners “with local communities, funders, and governments” to protect these and many other sites, directing 85% of its revenue toward “preservation projects, fieldwork, advocacy, and educational programs.” To help them out, click here.

Community Connection

Many of Matador’s member organizations are dedicated to cultural preservation. Browse their ranks and find out how you can lend a hand.

Everyone loves lakes. / Photo: magical-world

Lakes have a lot to offer: You get all the benefits of a refreshing body of water without having to worry about tides, currents, rapids, great whites, or that scummy coating of salt.

That must have been what the folks at the Brilliant Tips blog were thinking, anyway, when they published a snapshot of 10 Unique and Fascinating Lakes Around the World.

And Trips agrees. It’s time to bigup the world’s lakes, and here are some picks from the Brilliant Tips piece to get us started:

Photo: gramz

Volcanic views

Two from the list fall into this category.

First we have Guatemala’s Lago de Atitlán, with a trio of volcanoes flanking its southern shore. A series of Mayan villages also ring the water.

And then there’s Taal Lake, on the Philippine’s main island of Luzon. An active volcano rises up from an island in the middle of the lake, and within the volcano’s crater is yet another lake, which Wikipedia describes as “the world’s largest lake on an island in a lake on an island.”
Ya follow?

Most flamingos

Tourists aren’t the only ones who can appreciate lakes. There may be as many as one million flamingos in Kenya’s Lake Nakuru at any given time, attracted by the water’s abundant algae.

Photo: caffeinated Kit

The otherworldly

Spotted Lake, in Klikuk, British Columbia, gets its double-take texture from the soup of minerals found in its water and the peculiarities of local evaporation processes.

It’s visible from a pull-off on Highway 3, just a 10-minute drive north of the Washington border — truly an alien landscape.

World’s deepest

That would be Baikal, reaching depths of 1,642 meters (5,400 feet). It’s also the world’s oldest.

The crescent blade of a lake is located in southeastern Russia and is a good choice for breaking up your Trans-Siberian rail journey.

Most floaty

The Dead Sea, on the borders of Jordan, Israel, and the West Bank, is actually a giant salt lake. It also marks the point of lowest elevation on Earth’s surface (422 meters/1,385 feet below sea level).

And people like to float in it.

Photo: auntjojo

Others?

Lake Titicaca would be an obvious addition to the list.

It’s giant, super high (one of the highest navigable in the world), and home to a collection of artificial islands made from reeds that people live on.

Oregon’s Crater Lake is another standout, with its great depth and remarkably clear waters.

Any more? What’s the most memorable lake you’ve visited, and what makes it unique? Let us know in the comments.

Photos: Travelflare

Long-time Toronto resident Lusine, known within the Matador community as Travelflare, is eager to help visitors to her city make the most of the experience.

Here’s her take on Canada’s largest metropolis:

Although this has been my home for the past 11 years, I am still finding new places and learning new things. Toronto offers great international cuisine, numerous festivals all year long, live international music, nightlife and peaceful natural parks.

Being a multicultural city, Toronto compliments perfectly my personality and background, hence I have expertise in cultural festivals, concerts, restaurants, nightclubs and touristic attractions. Ask me anything you’d like, if I am not familiar with it, I will try to ask around and find an answer.

When she’s not fielding traveler’s questions on Toronto, Lusine is busy working as a travel agent and as editor of a sweet online travel mag, The Compass, which focuses on culture and experience of place (definitely worth a look!).

She also keeps up her personal blog, Travelflare, when she can.

And on top of all that, she’s blogged about Toronto’s nightlife, Asian cuisine, and its ubiquitous hot dogs right here on Matador.

Obviously, the girl knows her stuff. Visit her Matador profile to connect.

Community Connection

Calling all experts!

If you think you’ve got what it takes to become a destination expert for Matador, read this forum post to find out more, or contact Trips co-editor Hal Amen directly at hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com.

Winter in the Cairngorms / Photo: Murky1

For its size (on par with Oregon), the United Kingdom is one strikingly diverse nation. From mountains to beaches to rolling plains, its landscapes come in many varieties, one never more than a day’s journey from another.

Britain’s 14 national parks are tasked with showcasing this diversity, as well as protecting it. Recently, the Guardian asked travel industry leaders and outdoors enthusiasts to lay out what makes each of the 14 special. Here are some highlights:

Climbing Peak District / Photo: sharpneil

Brecon Beacons: Features an 8-day trek that takes in a historic church, Iron Age castle, and nature reserve, in addition to the high, angular terrain that dominates this region of Wales.

Peak District: Set square in the heart of England, Peak offers a range of climbing opportunities on its gritstone outcroppings — a type of rock found practically nowhere else on Earth.

Cairngorms: The system’s most extreme park by all counts (biggest, tallest, farthest north) draws mountain bikers looking to take on Scotland’s most epic trails.

Pembrokeshire Coast: Sea kayak is the vessel of choice for exploring this Welsh park and its 250 miles of rocky coast dotted with cliffs, sea caves, and marine wildlife.

Have you visited these or other UK parks? Share your experience in the comments.

Community Connection

For more national park goodness from around the world, check out these Matador posts:

Back to Nature: 13 Of The World’s Richest National Parks

Seven Best National Parks for Visiting Old Growth Forests

Guide to Kenya’s National Parks

Photo: orcmid

The Big Boys

1. TransAmerica Trail

It doesn’t get much bigger than this.

The TransAmerica was inaugurated during the 1976 “Bikecentennial,” a bicycle-based celebration of America’s 200th Independence Day. The route runs 4,262 miles from Virginia’s Atlantic coast, through the heartland of the USA, over the Rockies, and terminates at the Pacific in Oregon.

It was the success of the Bikecentennial that strengthened the popularity of cycle touring and led to the creation of many more American trails, some of which are profiled below.

Photo: billaday

2. Pacific Coast Route

Delivering what it promises, the Pacific Coast Route takes you from Washington’s border with Canada all the way down to San Diego, hugging the water practically the whole way.

Much of the 1,853-mile route is on shared roads, though there are some bicycle-dedicated stretches. Services — including top-notch campgrounds — are never far away.

For the super determined, the route can be extended beyond U.S. borders: north into British Columbia and south into Mexico…and beyond.

3. East Coast Greenway

Though currently only 23% complete, the East Coast Greenway will one day link Calais, Maine, and Key West, Florida, with a 3,000-mile, firm-surface, non-motorized trail system.

If you want to help the Greenway folks get this done just a little bit quicker, check out the details on their Close the Gaps Campaign.

The route is definitely ridable today, with the remaining 77% comprised of low-traffic roads.

4. Great Divide Trail

Challenge-seekers, this one’s for you. I’ll throw out some stats to get the blood pumping: 2,493 miles long. Mixes gravel, single-track, and converted railroad beds. Crosses the Continental Divide 50+ times. Gains more than 200,000 feet of elevation!

One of the founders of the Great Divide Trail has this to say:

People who’ve ridden this trail laugh when they hear others say the Tour de France is tough.

Photo: Jeremy & Taylor

The record time for cycling the whole thing? 15 days.

5. Mississippi River Trail

Get to know America’s Big River by cycling its length. The Mississippi River Trail follows it for 2,000 miles from its source in Minnesota, down through steamboat country, to the delta in New Orleans.

The trail includes bike-friendly roads as well as off-road paths and winds through 10 states.

Historic Trails

6. Underground Railroad

The escape of Southern slaves to the freedom of the North is one of the most tragic and heroic stories in American history. With the newly unveiled Underground Railroad Trail, you can see firsthand the routes that were taken by these fugitives.

Only, picture yourself traveling at night. Pursued. Oh yeah, and on foot.

For more info on the 2,028-mile trail, check out the four-part documentary playing on Adventure Cycling Association’s YouTube channel.

Photo: Jason Pratt

7. Lewis & Clark Trail

These were the explorers charged with mapping the land acquired in Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase, and this route traces their journey through the Great Plains and into the Pacific Northwest.

Of course, the original voyage was made largely by boat on the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, so the bike route follows the water whenever possible. It extends for 3,252 miles on a mix of paved roads and multi-use trails and gives easy access to many museums dedicated to the Lewis & Clark expedition.

Short(er) and Sweet

8. C&O Canal and Towpath + Great Allegheny Passage

Though created and maintained as two separate paths, these non-motorized trails link up to connect Washington, D.C. and Pittsburgh, PA, running a total of 330 miles. Cycling the two takes a few days and is popular in autumn, when the leaves turn.

The C&O Towpath is the same one that was used to drag boats along the old Chesapeake and Ohio Canal until the waterway’s closure in 1924. Its route is now preserved as a park.

Photo: Ken_Mayer

In Cumberland, MD, the Great Allegheny Passage takes over. The rail trail has yet to be extended into Pittsburgh proper, but work is underway to complete this last phase of construction.

9. Green Mountains Loop

If you’re not up for driving the Green Mountain State, why not cycle it? The 376-mile Green Mountains Loop starts and ends in Burlington and threads through the small New England towns and forests that make VT so special.

Most of the route is on shoulder-less roads, though traffic is generally light. While you won’t actually be climbing any mountains, expect hills.

10. Denali Highway

The Denali Highway was once a supply route for miners during Alaska’s Gold Rush, and later the main road for visitors to Denali National Park. Those days are over, and now the highway is a prime destination for cyclers.

Though a fairly short ride at just 133 miles, there are plenty of opportunities for off-the-saddle exploration — you don’t have to look far to find a chance to hike, paddle, or camp.

The highway runs from Paxson to Cantwell and is mostly gravel.

More

A map showing several of these routes and many more is provided by the Adventure Cycling Association.

Community Connection

New to cycle touring? Make sure to check out these Matador resources:

How to Train and Prepare For Your First Multi-Day Ride

How to Choose a Touring Bicycle

Bicycle Touring: A Solid Setup

8 Steps for Successful Self-Supported Bicycle Tours

All photos: phishtopher

Long-time Matador member phishtopher, like many travelers, has a passion for things Tibetan.

But unlike most others, he’s chosen to commit several years of his life to understanding this flashpoint region firsthand, using his graduate studies to investigate “issues involving identity, memory, narratives, exile, and the ways in which Tibetans adapt to life in cities.”

Here’s a little more, in Ryan’s own words:

I have traveled many places in China, but most of my time is spent in the Tibetan west–Qinghai, Sichuan, Gansu, Yunnan–and Xizang provinces. I often find myself staying with nomads on the grasslands and in mountain villages for research.

These places, regardless of whether they fall within the Tibetan Autonomous Region, are my favorites, as they offer the most unadulterated look at Tibetan culture available.

More on phishtopher can be found in his Matador profile, such as these tidbits:

Why I travel: to enjoy the creation of God, and to meet new people
Before I die I’d like to: set my heels to every nation’s soil and raise children who make a difference in the world
Let’s collaborate: i’m an anthropologist looking to travel, research and write about people. really i am an aspiring renaissance man, so if you need anyone trying to be too many things at once, that’s me.

To collaborate, inquire, or simply converse, click over to his profile page and leave a comment or shoot him a private message.

Community Connection

For more resources on Tibet, start off with Volunteering Opportunities in the Tibetan Community of McLeod Ganj, India and Student Travel in Tibet.

Photo: papalars

Community Connection

Follow the trail to discover The Most Spectacular Treks Worldwide.

1. Palmyra, Syria
This ancient desert oasis of a metropolis, 200km from Damascus, is at least 4,000 years old and can still be visited by camel caravan.
Photo: captain.orange

2. Borobudur, Indonesia
Borobudur was an active Buddhist temple from the 9th to 14th centuries and is located rather precariously between two Javanese volcanoes.
Photo: ctsnow

3. Teotihuacan, Mexico
Sitting less than an hour outside Mexico City, this pre-Aztec pyramid city may have been the most populous in the world during its heyday between A.D. 150 and 450.
Photo: Juls Barrett

4. Göreme, Cappadocia, Turkey
The unique stone formations of this region in central Turkey were made even more picturesque when homes and monasteries (and today hotels) were carved into them beginning around A.D. 300.
Photo: Nir Nussbaum

5. Khara-Khoto, Inner Mongolia
Marco Polo is said to have passed through this Mongol trading outpost before it was sacked by a Ming Dynasty army. Since then, the Gobi has slowly been taking up residence.
Photo: Ed_Stannard

6. Wat Phu, Laos
The lazy riverside town of Champasak is the gateway to these Khmer temple ruins, granted Unesco World Heritage status in 2001.
Photo: Adam Jones, Ph.D.

7. Tikal, Guatemala
Though only questionably qualifying as “lesser-known,” this stop on the Maya Trail did lose out on becoming a “New 7 Wonder of the World” to its cousin farther north, Chichen Itza.
Photo: mtsrs

8. Volubilis, Morocco
The Romans sure got around, leaving behind their characteristic triumphal arches and columned temples in unlikely places — such as a few dozen kilometers outside of Meknes, Morocco.
Photo: ollografik

9. Bagan, Myanmar
This ancient Burmese capital and its 2,217 peaked-dome temples should be better known, but its location within a “rogue state” is holding it back.
Photo: jmhullot

10. Tiwanaku, Bolivia
Tiwanaku (or Tiahuanaco) is still being excavated, as funds become available, but has already revealed countless secrets about a pre-Inca empire that ruled the Altiplano until A.D. 1000.
Photo: victorsounds

11. Mesa Verde National Park, USA
The Anasazi’s cliff-carved city, built in the 11th century, is considered the largest in North America and is the centerpiece of this national park in the Four Corners region.
Photo: ..lauren..

12. El Djem, Tunisia
More evidence of the Roman presence in North Africa comes in the form of this ruined amphitheater — the ancient empire’s third largest.
Photo: skuds

Community Connection

If you like what you see, you can browse more Trips photo essays here.

Photo: zachd1_618

Community Connection

For more photographic inspiration, click on the “wordless wanderlust” tag below.

In my favorite bar in Spain (Capileira) / All photos: El Lobo

If you’ve ever heard of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, you know taking on Spain with two feet can be a profound experience. But this popular trek isn’t the only walking opportunity the country affords.

Just ask Matador’s destination expert for Spain, El Lobo.

Arabesque in Andalucia

For the past 11 years, he’s been leading “cultural walking tours” through Andalucia (southern Spain) during the summer.

It’s a sweet gig, says El Lobo, because it lets him “get back there once a year to drink in the culture, which is seductive, intoxicating, and vibrant.”

To find out more about the tours, visit the website for Olé Spain.

And here’s some more about this week’s expert:

I’m fired up on: writing, drawing, flamenco, bullfights, traveling with my wife and kids, hoops, las playas de España
Why I travel: It’s a rush. The people are so kind. New beverages to imbibe. The heat.
About me: I am also always on the lookout for a standout Spanish basketball player, as I also teach Spanish and coach the varsity basketball team back home in Charm City.

What can El Lobo do for you? All you have to do is ask. As he says,

I’m eager to help travelers who have questions about Spain.

So what are you waiting for? Get on over to his Matador profile and fire away!

Community Connection

Don’t let your Matador destination experts go to waste. They’re here for you — take advantage!

Photos: Jason Rezaian

Ever had a travel question you wanted answered about Iran? This is your lucky day. Long-time Matador member Jason Rezaian happens to be our destination expert on the country, and he comes to us well qualified.

In his own words:

I assist journalists as well as private citizens in their travel plans for Iran, and I would love to answer any questions you may have.

How’s that for an invitation?

Here’s a little more about this week’s expert:

Favorite places I’ve been: Esfahan, Iran. Bangkok. New York City. Musee Rodin, Paris. Havana.
Languages spoken, other than English: Farsi and Spanish
I felt the most immersed in a foreign culture when: Getting my drycleaning done in Tehran.

Jason has shared his experiences here on Matador in the article A Common Language: Discovering Baseball in Iran, and he blogs about expat life in the country for the San Francisco Chronicle website.

He’s also writer and executive producer of a documentary titled “A World Between.”

Got questions? All you have to do is click over to Jason’s Matador profile and send him a message.

For more on his professional services, visit Iran Media Service.

Community Connection

Don’t forget, we’re always looking to expand our roster of destination experts. If you think you’ve got what it takes, read this forum post about how to apply.

Photo: mathias-erhart

Community Connection

Who doesn’t love a good mountain? Visit Matador Network’s Mountains page for more.

Photo: colin.brown

A few weeks ago, Matador Trips editor Carlo Alcos posted a healthy reminder for us to keep our common sense about us when on the road.

It’s an important message aimed at travelers worldwide. But Americans might require an additional precaution — for times when they’re not on the road.

Common knowledge has it that many American urban areas are dangerous places, virtual no-gos to anyone who doesn’t have the misfortune of living there. And most frequently when talking about urban crime, we toss around city names: New Orleans, Detroit, St. Louis, Oakland.

But cities are big places. They have their stereotypical dicey areas of pawnshops and abandoned warehouses, but also their Whole Foods yuppie zones, with maybe even a country club thrown in somewhere.

Which is why a list posted on www.walletpop.com is so interesting. It ranks individual neighborhoods by “predicted rates of violent crime.” Here are the top 10:

1. Central Pky./Liberty St., Cincinnati, OH (45210, 45214)
2. State St./Garfield Blvd., Chicago, IL (60609)
3. 7th Ave./North River Dr., Miami, FL (33128, 33130, 33136)
4. Beaver St./Broad St., Jacksonville, FL (32202)
5. North Ave./Belair Rd., Baltimore, MD (21213)
6. Bales Ave./30th St., Kansas City, MO (64127)
7. Warford St./Mount Olive Rd., Memphis, TN (38108)
8. Forest Ave./41st St., Kansas City, MO (64110)
9. Route 352/Scyene Rd., Dallas, TX (75210)
10. Church Hill, Richmond, VA (23223)

You can read about the methodology used in the ranking process here.

Photo: max_trudolubov

Comparing the results to a 2008 list of America’s most dangerous cities brings up a lot of questions.

It seems the country’s most violent neighborhood is located in Cincinnati (in an area known as the “Brewery District”). But Cincinnati doesn’t even show up in the top 20 city rankings.

At the same time, New Orleans, 2008’s most dangerous city, is nowhere to be found on the neighborhood list. And the first mention of Detroit — that favorite whipping child — comes at 23rd.

Which do you think is a more accurate method for measuring location-based danger? And beyond that, do you think lists like this are helpful and informative or nonconstructive and fear mongering? Share your opinion in the comments.

Community Connection

Interested in taking this research one step further? Connect with Matador community members from different parts of the U.S. and see what they’re saying about their home neighborhoods.You can browse a list of locations here.

Photo above: Vladimír Tóth, Feature photo: gluemoon

Unexpected Effects

As it turns out, there are times when armed conflict benefits the environment. Just look at Korea’s DMZ, where wildlife thrives in the 4km-wide strip of no man’s land that divides the peninsula.

Something similar occurred along the infamous Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified border that cut for thousands of kilometers through Central Europe, demarcating East and West. 1,400 of those kilometers were in Germany.

While armed guards held vigil, nature flourished. In 1989 the border came down, but the ecosystem that had grown up around it remained. It’s now home to 600 of the region’s threatened animal and plant species, from rare mosses to endangered birds and wild cats.

Redefining the Past

The grünes band — or green belt — as of yet isn’t monitored by a single entity. Rather, it’s being managed by groups in charge of the natural preservation of the different regions it passes through.

Photo: Shyald

Guided and solo trekking options are now attracting visitors. Of course, a nice dose of history is mixed in, with sections of fence, watchtowers, and even old East Germany barracks (now converted into tourist accommodations) still standing.

But just as the Iron Curtain extended far beyond the borders of Germany, so too does the vision of the project.

The organization European Green Belt hopes to turn the entire former border route — from the north of Finland to Greece — into one giant nature preserve.

Cyclists are also on the case, working section by section to create the 4,225-mile Iron Curtain Trail. Some segments are already open, as reported recently in The New York Times.

Preservation won’t be easy. Landowners and developers are understandably eager to take advantage of the empty land.

But great potential exists to transform the significance of the Iron Curtain from oppression and conflict to rejuvenation and new beginnings.

Community Connection

Have you been to the Iron Curtain green belt? If so, we’d love to hear about it in the comments.

For other great routes to explore, check out these Trips titles:

Photo Essay: The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail

How To Trek The Inca Trail

A-OK Again on the Kokoda Trail

Great Routes Through the Maya Trail

Photo: simon.wakefield

The area around the famous Stonehenge monument is littered with prehistoric remnants.

A quick panoramic scan from the parking area alone reveals a dozen or so conspicuous grassed-over mounds dotting the surrounding farmland — Bronze Age burial sites.

Then, if you curve your way north along A360, you’ll come to Avebury, whose multiple stone circles each dwarf the diameter of Stonehenge. There’s also Silbury Hill, the West Kennet Long Barrow, and the chalk formation of Cranborne Chase close by.

For archaeologists, the region is understandably intriguing. And with the discovery of a pair of 6,000-year-old tombs in the neighboring county of Hampshire (only 15 miles from Stonehenge), its intrigue level has shifted up another notch.

Pinpointed following an aerial survey of the area, the tombs have since been probed using electromagnetic and ultrasound techniques. They’ve been identified as long-barrow constructions, and many artifacts have been uncovered at the surface of the mounds.

Tourists shouldn’t get too excited about a potential visit just yet, however.

West Kennet Long Barrow / Photo: traceyp3031

Unlike the West Kennet barrow, where visitors are able to walk around inside the burial chambers, the new tombs near Damerham may be allowed to remain in their present condition.

The decision — rather responsibly if you ask me — is being left to residents of Damerham. “It’s their heritage,” says Dr. Helen Wickstead, the project’s lead archaeologist.

More details on this story can be found at the U.K. news site Times Online.

Community Connection

Interested in taking more journeys to the past? Check out 10 Key Destinations for the Historical Time Traveler.

Photo: ahisgett

Tourists…in Iraq?

In case you haven’t heard, three American travelers were recently detained in Iran after inadvertently crossing the border during a hike in northern Iraq.

Photo: jamesdale10

Apart from sparking some intense debate here on Matador about what the appropriate reaction should be, it’s caused many to ask the obvious question: “Why would anyone willingly travel to Iraq?”

As it turns out, the question isn’t quite as obvious as you’d think.

The trio’s companion explains in a revealing piece in The Nation that the group’s destination — the northern autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan — “is actually very beautiful and quite safe.”

Since the Kurds gained autonomy in 1992, no American has ever been harmed there. The city of Sulaimania is increasingly popular with tourists, and a friend of ours told us it was the most beautiful area he’d ever seen.

But the story doesn’t end there. An announcement was made that Gulf Air is scheduled to start five-times-weekly flights from Bahrain to Baghdad on September 1. Tourists welcome.

And back in May, you may remember that Trips reported on the World’s Newest Tourist Attraction: Saddam’s Babylon Palace.

The Babylon Story

Which brings us to what, in a perfect world, would be the country’s (if not the region’s) #1 tourist draw: the ruins of Babylon. This mythical city sat at the heart of one of the earliest civilizations on Earth, and its famed hanging gardens were one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Unfortunately, time has not been as kind to the physical site as it has to its reputation. A BBC piece from last month details a tragic recent history:

Photo: Rictor Norton & David Allen

* Nineteenth-century European archaeologists swiped countless relics, many of which are now housed proudly in the world’s most famous museums.

* Under Saddam, half-assed and amateur renovations were undertaken, which resulted in more damage than restoration. It was these actions that prompted Unesco to refuse to grant the site World Heritage status, something that might have helped prevent at least some of the destruction that was to come.

* In 2003 and 2004, U.S. forces set up camp in the ruins, digging trenches, bulldozing, and using fragile stone-paved pathways as tank streets.

* The looting that began during America’s tenure continues today.

Apparently, Unesco is now rushing to reverse their decision and offer Babylon some World Heritage protection. But the sad truth is, it might be too late.

Have you been to Babylon? We’d love to see an on-the-ground report in the comments.

Community Connection

Those planning to be on that inaugural Gulf Air flight into Baghdad should make sure to read How To Travel To Iraq Without Getting Killed.

If, on the other hand, you wouldn’t be caught dead (ahem) touristing Iraq, keep an open mind and peruse 5 Compelling Reasons To Visit Banned Countries.

Photographer: monterd

Community Connection

Like what you see? Stay on theme with The World’s Most Spectacular Roads and Matador’s Top 7 Summer Road Trips in the US/Canada.

1. The Door to Hell, Darvaza, Turkmenistan
The collapse of a natural gas cavern in 1971 created this crater in a small Turkmenistan village. Officials made the call to ignite the noxious fumes…which have yet to stop burning.
Photographer: minifastcar33

2. Windfarm, San Gorgonio Pass, California, USA
Modern wind turbines and an eerie moonrise conspire to create this otherworldly scene.
Photographer: Caveman 92223

3. Sedan Crater, Nevada, USA
In the early ’60s, the U.S. government experimented with using nuclear bombs in massive construction works. Among other results was this, one of the world’s largest human-made craters.
Photographer: itjournalist

4. Libyan crop circles
Not all crop circles are made by aliens. These plots in Saharan Libya are created by nothing more mysterious than pivot irrigation.
Photographer: futureatlas.com

5. Burgan Field, Kuwait, 1991
During the Gulf War, parts of Kuwait’s vast Burgan Oil Field were set ablaze.
Photographer: National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

6. Coal mines
The process of mining for coal alters the face of the landscape. Garzweiler, Germany (above) and Estercuel, Spain (below) are two of many examples.
Photographer: BK59

Photographer: Jen SFO-BCN

7. Rio Tinto, Spain
Leached iron and other heavy metals (another result of mining) give Spain’s Rio Tinto its name.
Photographer: Serafin-Sanchez

8. Centralia Mine Fire, Pennsylvania, USA
Another ignited mine that just won’t quit, the fire smoldering under Centralia has forced the evacuation of pretty much the entire town.
Photographer: jesiehart

9. Ground Zero, New York City
Photographer: slagheap

10. Oil slicks
It doesn’t take a headline-grabbing oil spill for petroleum to hit the water. Day-to-day extraction and processing operations leak plenty, as shown in these NASA images of Venezuela’s Lake Maracaibo (above) and the Arabian Sea (below).
Photographer: Visible Earth, NASA

Photographer: Visible Earth, NASA

Community Connection

For even more of the surreal, give Dead City Tourism: Abandoned Places of the World a read.

And don’t miss these other Trips photo essays:

Spectacular Waterfalls of the World

The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail

The Stunning Colors of Glacier National Park

Ethiopia

Photo: Guwashi999

As ambiguous as we may feel over the term “flashpacker,” it’s hard to deny the truth that technology is becoming an ever more important element of travel. Sad as it sounds, without a laptop and hostel wifi, I wouldn’t be able to travel at all.

Trips doesn’t usually take its cues from AskMen.com, but we did notice when they recently published a list of the world’s top 10 tech cities. Factors taken into consideration included the amount of R&D undertaken by national companies, the prevalence of free wifi spots in the country, and the surely difficult to quantify “techiness” of its citizens.

Photo: e-magic

Here’s what they came up with:

1. Tokyo
2. Seoul
3. Singapore
4. Hong Kong
5. San Francisco Bay Area
6. Seattle
7. Helsinki
8. Bangalore
9. Munich
10. Tel Aviv

I can vouch for Seoul, even though I haven’t been back since wifi went big. It’s the home of Samsung and LG, after all, not to mention that 95% of the male population age 2-30 spend their waking hours battling each other in World of Warcraft.

One notable omission would have to be Taipei, where many Gadgets Bonafide Flashpackers Should Carry are manufactured. A few commenters also wondered why the Bay Area wasn’t higher up the list, being the birthplace of “tech” and all.

What do you think? Have you traveled to a city that struck you as particularly techy? How big a role does technology play in your travels? Indulge inquiring minds by leaving a comment below.

Community Connection

Still confused about what exactly a flashpacker is? Read about Matador Nights editor Tom Gates’ identity crisis in From a Flashpacker to a Backpacker, take 2.

All photos: joshywashington

Josh Johnson (aka joshywashington) is a man of many talents.

In addition to being a contributing editor at the Traveler’s Notebook — where he’s recently wowed us with his video, mountain photography, and watercolor skills — he fills his downtime by fielding travelers’ questions as our destination expert on Saigon.

Hearing him talk about the heart of southern Vietnam is enough to make you start browsing airfare:

Crossed the border from Cambodia at Chao Dok five months ago and have managed to infiltrate Saigon. I teach and even now still wander around this blessed city in awe. The Vietnamese people are some of the friendliest, proudest, most resourceful people I have ever had the pleasure to meet. It has been a blast.

And you definitely don’t want to miss All Aboard!, his tale of rice wine and jolly fishermen off the coast of Hoi An.

Here’s some more about Josh:

About me: I love to write, read, blog, shoot video, photograph, converse, and create. I want to establish a global community with the aim of gleaning knowledge from each other, supporting each other in our endeavors. I want ours to be the generation that turns this thing around. VivA I can see it! Victory!

Travel style: Seat O my britches kinda travel! I’ve suffered from ill preparation at times but no matter where I find myself I’m always glad to be there. Have only had the pleasure of sleeping on the street 4 times. That kinda travel.

Let’s collaborate: I want to create videos for webtv, Travel with a small crew and pitch our material. I want to host podcasts from around the globe. I want to write, film and go, go, go! Drop me a line if traveling and filming sounds good.

Josh also wants you to know that if you’re on the search for info about Saigon, he’s your guy. All you need to do is click over to his Matador profile and get in touch.

And make sure to check out his media company, Confluence Creative Media, dedicated to “the collaboration of creative energy, worldwide.”

Community Connection

Haven’t heard of Matador’s destination experts? Where’ve you been!? See who’s already been featured on Trips by clicking the “destination experts” tag below, or browse the entire lineup here.

1. Angel Falls, Venezuela
Salto Del Ángel, better known to English speakers as Angel Falls, is considered the highest in the world at 979 meters.
Photographer: Inti

2. Seljalandsfoss, Iceland
This picturesque 60m plunge has appeared on the likes of The Amazing Race. Hikers get a kick out of the trail that leads behind the falls.
Photographer: Daníel Örn

3. Victoria Falls, Zambia/Zimbabwe
Victoria forms the “largest sheet of falling water in the world.” Its extent is so great that it helps to have a view from the air (below).
Photographer: Sotti

Photographer: Jean-Louis Vandevivère

4. Bridalveil Fall, USA
One of the most photogenic falls in California’s Yosemite National Park, and that’s saying a lot.
Photographer: CLightPictures

5. Kaieteur Falls, Guyana
Though neither the tallest nor the widest, Kaieteur’s combination of height and volume makes it one of the world’s most powerful falls.
Photographer: madmack66

6. Takakkaw Falls, Canada
Takakkaw is one of the star attractions of British Columbia’s Yoho National Park.
Photographer: Michael Rogers

7. Tad Fane, Laos
Twin chutes of water plummet into a jungle gorge just beyond the balconies of the Tad Fane resort.
Photographer: krisprachant

8. Niagara Falls, USA/Canada
Niagara needs no introduction, but just like Victoria, its true scope can only be appreciated from the air (below).
Photographer: outofthebox27

Photographer: gilesclement

9. Barron Falls, Australia
Only a trickle for much of the year, the Barron Falls roar after a hearty rainy-season downpour.
Photographer: Shek Graham

10. Queulat Glacier waterfall, Chile
Sensitive environmentalists, avert your eyes. This one might as well be taken straight from a climate change poster.
Photographer: betoscopio

11. Iguazu Falls, Argentina/Brazil
There are 275 separate falls along this 2.7km stretch of the Iguazu River. Yeah, they’re awesome. Check out the panorama (below).
Photographer: Luca Galuzzi

Photographer: Martin St-Amant

12. Yinlianzhuitan waterfall, China
Though not as large as the nearby Huangguoshu waterfall, Yinlianzhuitan makes the list for one reason: this sweet pic.
Photographer: WaitinZ

Community Connection

Matador Trips is amassing a collection of some of the most stunning photo essays on the web. Make sure not to miss:

The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth

The Stunning Colors of Glacier National Park

The Spirit of Burma

Papua New Guinea

An Amazon Adventure

Hiking in the Diamond Head area of Garibaldi Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada
Photographer: footloosiety

Community Connection

If you’re looking to be inspired by fellow travelers, Matador’s the place for you. Sign up today.

Photo: Or Hiltch

A while back, Trips introduced you to 8 Cities That Burn Through Your Money, a list based largely on last year’s Mercer rankings.

Guess what? That’s all changed. It’s 2009, baby, and not surprisingly there’ve been quite a few shakeups. The Guardian’s already reported on the revised rankings, which show the effects of a sagging world economy.

Here are the two big stories, summarized for travelers:

Spending a year in London? You win! Your city dropped THIRTEEN slots to wind up in an eyebrow-raising 16th place.

Expats in Japan, on the other hand, should heed this warning: Get out now! Seemingly mistaking these rankings as a competition, the Land of the Rising Sun snagged gold and silver with Tokyo and Osaka topping the list.

Less attention-grabbing developments include Moscow dropping from first to third, Geneva ascending to fourth, and New York clawing its way into the top 10.

If you’re curious about exactly which cities were in the running and what economic factors were considered, a Guardian companion article lays it out:

The survey covers 143 cities across six continents and measures the comparative cost of over 200 items in each location, including housing, transport, food, clothing, household goods and entertainment.

Asunción, no longer at the bottom / Photo: alex-s

And which lucky municipality managed to walk away with the coveted “world’s cheapest city” title? That would be Johannesburg, South Africa, who snatched it from Asunción, Paraguay.

My apologies to anyone who already sent in their Paraguayan permanent residency application. But hey, I hear Johannesburg’s lovely this time of year.

Community Connection

Matador is your source for frugal city travel guides. Even if you live in Johannesburg, you’ll want to check out:

Budget Guide to New York City

Singapore on a Shoestring Budget

Seattle on the Cheap: 7 Tips to Save Cash in the Emerald City

A Young Traveler’s Guide To Drinking on the Cheap in Prague

Photo above: gudi&cris, Feature photo: discosour

Most people have likely only heard of one Inca road, the Inca Trail that passes over mountains, through the Sun Gate, and into the Wonder of the World that is Machu Picchu.

But Peru and other Andean countries are riddled with the remains of hundreds, if not thousands, of Inca roads. One secret of the empire’s success was exactly this degree of connection between its distant and diverse territories.

The local Quechua people, the Incas’ direct descendants, retain knowledge about these routes. In fact, they still use them to travel from one mountain-trapped town to another, to transport goods to weekly markets, maybe even to go to school each morning.

Just this past week, news emerged that a team of Peruvian and Spanish archaeologists have uncovered yet another track, which appears to have provided an alternative point of access to Machu Picchu.

In typical Inca fashion, it is “paved” with stones and reinforced with walls that in some places stand as high as 16ft.

Photo: Lee Coursey

Information is scant, but you can read more about the discovery in the Latin American Herald Tribune.

Experts think the reason the road may have gone so long without being found is that it was sacred, used only by Inca priests, and so awareness of it was limited.

What lies in store for the road now that it’s seen the light of day again? I’m sure it can kiss its former sacredness adios.

Give it five years, then look for the signs in Cuzco’s tour agency windows: “Why hike the commoner’s Inca Trail when you can follow in the footsteps of priests?”

Community Connection

Of course, you don’t have to trail it at all to get to Machu Picchu, and in forgoing the trek you can save some real dough. Find out how in Machu Picchu on the Cheap.

Think the whole thing is overhyped and overrated? Why not Discover Your Own Machu Picchu at Choquequirao, Peru?

Photo above: Martin St-Amant, Feature photo: Rick McCharles

Restoration to this small Incan city only began in the ’90s. The first visitors had to cross the Apurímac River via a rope bridge to reach it.

During a typical afternoon at Machu Picchu, you’ll be one among hundreds (if not thousands). At Choquequirao, you might see six or seven other visitors, if any.

While the ruins currently sit under the radar, their recent addition to the tour rosters in Cuzco means they won’t stay there forever. There’s also talk of building a highway to the site within the next 10 years. Consider yourself warned — get there now.

Practicalities

Choquequirao lies northwest of Cuzco, on the opposite side of snowy Mt. Salkantay from Machu Picchu. Access is via the highway to Abancay.

Photo: Rick McCharles

The trek has become standard fare among tour operators in Cuzco, running around $200 per person, all-inclusive (minus tip, of course). Remember the general rule: the farther you wander from the main plaza, the less you’ll pay.

Of course, it’s possible to visit the ruins on your own. Knowing some Spanish is helpful, but the destination is popular enough now that most people will know what you’re doing and be able to help.

Hop an Abancay-bound bus and ask the driver to let you off at the turnoff to Cachora, just after the Saihuite archeological site. From there, flag down one of the frequent taxis that make the short journey to Cachora. There’s basic accommodation in the village if you need it.

From the plaza, follow the main road downhill, continuing after it turns to dirt. Soon, you’ll see a blue entrance sign pointing you towards the path to the ruins. Once on it, it’s nearly impossible to get lost.

Independent hikers will need to pay two different access fees along the trail, as it runs through Apurímac and Cuzco Departments. Each is around $12 per person.

Come prepared — you’ll be experiencing vastly different elevations and ecosystems, so both mosquito repellant and a warm sleeping bag are advisable.

The Trek

This is no saunter down the Inca Trail.

Photo: Nelo

From the village to the ruins and back, you’re looking at 74 km (46 miles). But it’s the elevation changes that really kill.

On the first day, the trail drops 1,800 meters (6,000 feet) to the floor of the Apurímac River valley, only to climb even higher on day 2. Then, you do the whole thing again when it’s time to leave.

Don’t let your guide — carefully trained in “exhausted-tourist encouragement” — fool you. This is tough stuff.

Most tours run 4 days/3 nights, but duration depends largely on your ability. Some people take 5 or even 6 days. I did mine in 3…barely. True speed demons (and the clinically insane) have been known to make the round trip in 2.

As with any tour in Peru, the more time you can spare, the more you’ll explore and discover. And in this case, the more your body will thank you when you’re done.

Photo: author

Speaking of sore bodies, a better option for independent trekkers than lugging a 30-40 lb. pack is to hire a mule in Cachora. This is how gear is hauled if you go with a guide — there are no porters.

Campgrounds are plentiful, with three near the river on the Cachora side, a few at varying heights on the mountain opposite, and at least one at Choquequirao itself. They charge a dollar or two per tent, per night.

The best is at Maranpata, at the end of day 2’s long, steep climb. The open views are tremendous, though this makes it a bit chillier.

Bonus adventure

For those who truly want to immerse themselves in the land of the Inca, you can turn this into a 9-day trek that ends in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). From Choquequirao, the trail drops and climbs a few more times, passing other minor archeological sites en route.

My guide told me the Choquequirao-Machu Picchu trek is incredibly strenuous, but he also called it the best trek in Peru. Only a couple hundred people do it each year. Compare that to the 2,500 descending on Machu Picchu every day, and you’ve got yourself some serious isolation.

Photo: author

The Ruins

Some ads claim that Choquequirao is “bigger than Machu Picchu,” but this refers to the mountain itself, not the ruins.

Choquequirao was a small city, about 20 families strong, and has nowhere near the number of structures as its famous cousin.

However, because restoration began only recently, there’s likely much more still hidden by jungle.

Though your legs may be resisting at this point, make sure to follow the path that drops steeply on the far side of the ruins, which will lead you to a series of terraces. These original stone walls are decorated with white rocks that create the figures of llamas.

Photo: andyinsouthamerica

You won’t find these at Machu Picchu, or anywhere else for that matter.

But the real attraction of Choquequirao is simple: there’s no one there.

Apart from a few teams of restoration workers and one or two other small tourist groups, you’ll have the quiet, magnificent ruins all to yourself — almost as if you were discovering your own Machu Picchu.

Community Connection

Regardless of how many Choquequiraos become available to tourists, the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu trek will remain the biggest draw. Trips has what you need for this itinerary too. Make sure to check out How to Trek the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu on the Cheap.

Photos: Mr. Balkan

Who better than a professional tour guide to direct your questions to? Mr. Balkan is Matador’s destination expert for Croatia, and chances are he can hook you up with info on the rest of the Balkans as well.

Here’s a little more on this week’s expert:

Languages spoken, other than English: Croatian, Russian, Slovenian, German, Italian.

Sports I do: basketball, soccer, running…

Places I want to go to: Kazakhstan and the Bermuda triangle.

Quote: vsjak svoego schastja kuznjec

Who I’d like to meet on my travels: Michael Palin

To read more about Mr. Balkan, send him your questions, and join his travel network, just click over to his Matador profile.

Community Connection

Whoever you are and wherever you’re going, Matador has a destination expert for you. To see more featured experts here on Trips, click the “destination expert” tag below. Or, browse the entire roster here. Don’t be shy — get your questions answered today!

Photo: geoftheref

I gazed out the bus window last Sunday afternoon to see…well, nothing.

No jagged mountains or endless pampas as I’d imagined. Instead, a solid sheet of white hung like TV static out the slowly progressing bus window. Blizzard-like conditions were slamming Patagonia’s Route 40.

This was the first time I saw it snow during my now six months in South America. And I was just as shocked as I had been back in January, flying out of snowy Boston to arrive in the humid, hazy summer of Lima. How amazing that it’s possible to switch seasons in a day simply by hopping a plane.

Photo: lepiaf.geo

However strange it may feel, I’m ready to take advantage of what Patagonia’s throwing at me.

Over the next month or so that I’ll be here in Esquel, Argentina, volunteering with Asociación MAPU (which just so happens to be a Matador member organization), I should have a couple days free to hit the local ski mountain, La Hoya.

And if I were to venture a bit farther north, I could sample a couple of the 5 Best Southern Hemisphere Ski Resorts that Trips profiled earlier this year.

The other three are in Australia/New Zealand.

What about my fellow Southern Hemisphereans? What are your plans for enjoying the winter of 2009 while our cousins up north steam and sweat? Let me know in the comments.

Community Connection

To connect with other Matador members stationed below the belt, search the community destination pages.

1. Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
The largest salt flat in the world reflects the sky during the wet season (above). In the dry winter months, it becomes a mosaic of salt tiles (below).
Photographer: Luca Galuzzi

Photographer: Sergio Pessolano

2. Antarctica
Icebergs drift in dark Antarctic waters.
Photographer: winkyintheuk

3. The Richat Structure, near Ouadane, Mauritania
A circular feature, 50 km across, in the middle of the otherwise featureless Mauritanian Sahara. Picture courtesy of NASA.
Photographer: trodel_wiki

4. Alvord Playa, southeastern Oregon, USA
You might not expect to find a desert in the Pacific Northwest, but this dry lake bed averages only 180 mm of rain a year.
Photographer: rasone

5. Cappadocia, Turkey
Fairy chimneys dominate the landscape between Cavusin and Zelve.
Photographer: Timothy Neesam

6. Socotra Island, Yemen
Socotra’s isolation in the Indian Ocean has given rise to plant life you won’t see anywhere else. Behold the dragon’s blood tree.
Photographer: Sotti

7. Black Rock Desert, Nevada, USA
Best known as the staging grounds for Burning Man, the Black Rock Desert is also home to alien features such as the Fly Geyser.
Photographer: Stephen Oachs

8. Black and White Deserts, Egypt
Egypt’s deserts come in many colors, including Black (above) and White (below).
Photographer: Gekko82

Photographer: tronics

9. Kauai, Hawaii
Seaside lava ledges make for otherworldly experiences on this often-overlooked Hawaiian island.
Photographer: PatrickSmithPhotography

10. Namib Desert, Namibia
Sand rarely gets as red as it does in the deserts of Namibia.
Photographer: Brian Preen

11. Torres del Paine, Chile
The most alien of the 8 Natural Wonders of Chile, Torres del Paine’s mountain spires cut into the blue sky.
Photographer: winkyintheuk

12. Dead Sea, Israel/Jordan
Lowest point on Earth, deepest salt lake in the world, saltier than the ocean…the list of the Dead Sea’s bizarreness is a long one.
Photographer: Pennina Neumann

13. Strokkur Geyser, southwestern Iceland
Visitors to the Strokkur Geyser are rewarded with this display every five minutes or so.
Photographer: exfordy

14. Lake Turkana, Kenya
Lake Turkana lies in Africa’s Great Rift Valley. Its salty waters comprise the world’s largest desert lake.
Photographer: Yannick Garcin

15. Four Corners region, USA
The Colorado Plateau gets funky at the Arizona-Utah border. That’s where you’ll find Vermilion Cliffs National Monument (above) and Monument Valley (below).
Photographer: gregmote

Photographer: Wolfgang Staudt

16. Chocolate Hills, Bohol, Philippines
Over 1,700 naturally formed mounds (covered with chocolate brown grass in the dry season) dot the center of the island of Bohol.
Photographer: Lemuel Montejo

17. The Sahara
The world’s largest hot desert is as big as the entire U.S. Get stranded out here and you’ll wish you really were on an alien world.
Photographer: Jay Brezinsky

“Tunisian Sahara: Desert Stop!”
Photographer: andzer

Community Connection

As most travelers know, you don’t have to be in an alien landscape to experience the surreal. Matador contributing editor Christine Garvin wants to know, What Is Your Most Surreal Travel Experience?

For more photo-inspired gawking (with a bit of vertigo tossed in), check out Photo Essay: 13 Places to Get Close to the EDGE.

Photo above: gruntzooki, Feature photo: mborowick

Beirut

Did you know Democrats Abroad had a branch in Lebanon? Neither did we, but the Bekaa Valley Wine Tour they have planned for Independence Day sounds pretty sweet.

Tickets are $65 in advance or $75 day of, and naturally, all proceeds benefit Democrats Abroad Lebanon.

The American touch in Milan / Photo: Tavallai

Milan

Visiting Milan? You’re invited to a red, white, and blue event at the design museum La Triennale di Milano, taking place from 4-10pm on the Fourth.

We’re talking hamburgers and beer combined with a free English-language museum tour and children’s workshops, topped off with an American Airlines ticket giveaway.

Doors are open to all, and admission is free. For more info, click here.

Photo: laura padgett

Shanghai

Shanghai is home to a large expat population, and the local American Chamber of Commerce is putting on a July 4th shindig at the 5-star Le Meridien She Shan resort. Family activities, catered food, and live music and dancing will be on offer.

You can view the event flyer here.

The Netherlands

Seems like America’s political parties are competing for the hearts and minds of U.S. expats in Holland.

This July 4th, you can choose between a Democrats Abroad picnic in Amsterdam’s Vondelpark or a BBQ in Rotterdam organized by their counterparts at Republicans Abroad. How to decide!?

London

Fireworks fans, this one’s for you. In addition to “upscale and affordable BBQ” and “two fully stocked bars,” this event in Battersea Park features pyrotechnics.

Over 900 partiers were in attendance last year, and more than half that number have already RSVP-ed for this Saturday’s event. No charge for admission.

Singapore

Bouncy castles, soccer and tennis schools, and live music are just some of what’s going on at the strangely named Terror Club Sports Complex in Singapore this July 4th.

Admission is free — just remember to bring ID. And, as in London, the sky will be lit up with an Independence Day fireworks display.

Tokyo Disneyland / Photo: gwaar

Click here for details.

Prague

A lot of little celebrations are slated for Eastern Europe’s U.S. expat capital. Any place where Americans typically congregate will likely have something going on.

This page lists three options to check out.

Japan

Democrats Abroad is throwing down some Fourth love all over Japan.

There’s the “Barack BBQ” in Osaka’s Ogimachi Park, a celebration at the Pink Cow art bar in Tokyo, and a beach party in Kanagawa.

For info on these three events, click here.

Community Connection

Do you have info on a Fourth of July event taking place in a different corner of the world? Share it with your fellow travelers by leaving a comment.

For all you American expats out there, Brave New Traveler has some reading material you might find of interest. Check out What Can Travel Teach You About The American Dream? and How I Made Peace With My American Identity.

Staying closer to home this Saturday? Don’t miss Fourth of July Events around the U.S.

Photo above: iChaz, Feature photo: Bondseye

Go 4th on the River, New Orleans

Celebrate the Stars and Stripes in Dixie. The Big Easy puts on quite the show along the banks of the Mississippi, including a generous offering of free events and — naturally — lots of great music.

The finale comes at 9pm with the Dueling Barges Fireworks Extravaganza. Twin river barges shoot off an insane amount of firepower in one of the country’s best displays.

Details: www.go4thontheriver.com

Taste of Chicago

The Windy City’s biggest festival is about a lot more than patriotism.

Photo: spatulated

Every year, Taste of Chicago draws loads of food vendors serving up the best of classic Chicago cuisine (think deep-dish pizza, Polish sausage, and BBQ) and crowds numbering in the millions.

The best part? You don’t have to wait — the festivities have already begun, and they’ll last until July 5.

Make sure to catch the superb pyrotechnics that’ll light up the shores of Lake Michigan at 9pm, July 3.

Small Town 4th of July, Williams, AZ

America’s small towns know how to throw down just as well as its cities. The highlight of the day in Williams will be the Arizona Skyhawks, a parachuting team that plans to skydive in formation and land smack in the middle of the July 4th parade on Main Street.

Also on the program are a barbecue, corn roast, ice cream social, and the “railhead shooting competition.”

Details: www.williamschamber.com

Boston Harborfest

With over 200 events scheduled between Tuesday, June 30 and Sunday, July 5, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a dull moment at the 2009 Boston Harborfest.

Where else can you hear a reading of the Declaration of Independence, participate in a reenactment of the Boston Tea Party, and be a judge in a chowder competition?

Avery Tomato Festival, Avery, TX

Forget fireworks and freedom. Folks in Avery know what the Fourth is all about: tomatoes.

Photo: The Ewan

Contests seem to be the name of the game at this festival. Standouts include competitions to determine the Best Tomato Hat and Ugliest Tomato, a Horseshoe Tournament, the Tomato Festival Queen Pageant…the list goes on.

And don’t worry, you’ll get your fireworks too.

Details: http://cityofavery.com

Family 4th, Seattle

Seattle does it up right for the kiddos.

Bring your children to Gas Works Park and set them loose in the Playfield, which features giant inflatable slides, kite flying, circus workshops, and something called a “Monkey Motion Quad Pod.” The event website provides lots of safety info as well.

Adults will enjoy the beer garden and pub trivia, and the fireworks encore at 10pm is one of the best in the U.S.

Blueberry Pancake Breakfast, Freeport, ME

Celebrate the Fourth in Freeport, the well-touristed home of L.L. Bean, and you can get in on the fun run, clambake, and 9pm fireworks display.

Photo: rjs1322

But we know what you really came for — the blueberry pancakes. Grab a stack downtown at St. Jude Hall.

Details: www.freeportmaine.com

National Independence Day Parade, Washington, D.C.

Fans of the traditional July 4th parade need look no farther than D.C. The National Independence Day Parade takes place at 11:45am along Constitution Ave. (between the National Mall and the White House).

Marching bands from around the country, decorative floats, military drill teams, and VIP appearances make up this official holiday event.

Community Connection

Planning to spend the Fourth in the Big Apple? You might want to reread this post: Statue of Liberty’s Crown to Reopen.

What are you doing for the Fourth? Trips wants to hear from you — leave a comment!

All photos: Eric Warren

Eric Warren, a.k.a. advenjunkie, has spent the past 25 years digging deep into Montana.

He’s lived in Missoula, Big Sky, Bozeman, and Billings and has extensively explored Yellowstone National Park, Glacier National Park, the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, the Bitterroot Wilderness, and most other Montana locations.

He’s also an avid mountain biker, rock climber, surfer, and cross-country skier, which isn’t surprising given all the adventure opportunities up for grabs under Big Skies.

Here’s a little more on Eric:

About me: I’m a photographer and writer specializing in adventure and travel. I also do commercial photographic work and write fiction.

Tunes I rock out to: Everything from The Pixies to Tool to Bach to Jem. I’ve been playing a lot of Beethoven lately…

I want to make a difference by: Showing the world through my lens and writing essays/stories either funny or thought provoking that get people moving — either out their doors or deeper into their lives.

As you may know, Matador has put together one of the most comprehensive resources on Montana you’ll find anywhere, including locals’ recommendations for trails, rivers, mountains, restaurants, and bars.

Eric authored a number of these articles, including Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides and 9 Montana Backpacking Trips That Will Blow Your Mind.

You can check out his photography on Flickr, and shoot him all your Montana questions via his Matador profile.

Community Connection

Believe it or not, Eric isn’t Matador’s only expert on Big Sky. We’d also like to introduce Adam French, Brianna, B French, and Matador contributing editor Teresa.

And don’t forget — when we say our experts are here to help, we mean it. Don’t be shy! Get in touch today by joining the Matador community.

Photos: winkyintheuk

Matadorian rico nico’s expertise on the frozen continent comes from a stint of employment at one of the U.S. research stations, an experience he’s eager to help others achieve:

I worked as a “Dining Room Attendant” (read: “Dishwasher”) for nearly 5 months at McMurdo Station. Navigating the application process was the hardest part, so I’d be thrilled to provide a streamlined plan for the quickest way to get hired (ie: learn from my mistakes).

I can also let you know what jobs you’re likely to end up with your first season down there, what you’ll want to pack, and plenty about what your day-to-day will look like if you’re living on the ice.

Not surprisingly, rico nico is no stranger to adventure:

Two weeks after being handed my degree in Graphic Design from UC Davis I started leading trips for an adventure travel company called “Backroads.”

For the last 6 years my spring, summer, and fall months (working months) have looked like this: Cycle through the California wine country, hike the verdant hills of Irealnd, kayak through lobster buoys in Maine, and swim with turtles in Hawaii.

Then, when the winter months hit I’d strap on a backpack and travel on my own: Jumping naked into the water in Antarctica, doing photography in Cuba, attempting to learn Spanish in Guatemala.

But his story doesn’t end there:

Since I’ve always been attracted to volunteer projects that involve medicine, I set my sights on becoming medically trained. I became an EMT through NOLS (awesome course!) and got a job in SF as a Surgical Technician in preparation for Nurse Practitioner school, my ultimate goal.

So now I work in a hospital and sit in lectures. I’ll admit that it feels like a step down. The adventures have been put on temporary hold, but once I’m a medical professional I’m hoping to take the skills abroad and open an entirely new, and purposeful, chapter of travel.

Rico nico can tell you what you need to know about Antarctica, but travel advice is a two-way street. He also “would love a few nudges in the right direction for places to go/volunteer in Africa — such a huge place I don’t know where to begin.”

To connect with rico nico, visit his Matador profile.

Community Connection

Antarctica’s international status means it has no single authority on issues related to tourism. Problem? You decide: US Calls for Stricter Tourism Guidelines in Antarctica.

Matador Goods can show you how Antarctica became the setting of one of the 8 Greatest Adventure Stories Ever Told.

Photo: Ken Lund

The L.A. Times’ online travel section recently published a list of trivia on Mt. Rushmore, the U.S. national memorial featuring the faces of four American presidents carved into a granite cliff in South Dakota’s Black Hills.

Intended to share various fun facts on a national icon, the list includes entries such as:

Photo: StuSeeger

* George Washington has the longest nose of the four.
* Ninety percent of the carving work was carried out with dynamite.
* Thomas Jefferson was originally positioned on Washington’s right, but this face was blown up and a new one carved between Washington and Roosevelt.

Yet, the article also relates a few obscure historical points about the monument that raise eyebrows in a different way:

1. The lead sculptor may have been a member of the KKK.

Gutzon Borglum was the man charged with creating the monument in 1927.

Photo: Peter Kaminski

However, immediately prior to this, he had been laboring on a different project: the Confederate Memorial Carving on Stone Mountain, Georgia.

This is the largest bas-relief in the world and depicts Confederate leaders Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee, and “Stonewall” Jackson.

Its construction was funded in large part by Georgia’s Ku Klux Klan.

Though Borglum didn’t finish the job, he became pretty chummy with KKK leaders during his time at Stone Mountain, and his experiences there directly influenced his work on Mt. Rushmore.

2. The Black Hills are stolen land.

In 1868, the U.S. government signed a treaty with various American Indian peoples guaranteeing Indian ownership of the Black Hills forever. Just nine years later the government took back the land (there’s a term for that, isn’t there?) following the discovery of gold in the Black Hills.

In other words, a proud monument commemorating heroes of American democracy sits on land acquired through lies.

Photo: KimonBerlin

The U.S. Supreme Court ruled in 1980 that the Black Hills had been illegally seized and ordered the federal government to pay $105 million to the American Indians still residing in the region.

The money was refused.

What’s more, on another cliff just 17 miles from Rushmore, a new monument is slowly taking shape. Its subject is Crazy Horse, the famous Oglala Lakota leader.

Progress is slow, due to the desire of those involved to avoid using government funds. But when completed, it will be nearly 10 times as tall as Mt. Rushmore — the largest statue in the world.

More than a monument

If you’re one of the 3 million visitors to Mt. Rushmore this year, make sure to keep the above “trivia” in mind.

Like any travel destination, there’s more here than meets the eye.

Community Connection

Rapid City, South Dakota, isn’t just the gateway to Mt. Rushmore, but also to Pristine America.

If you get fired up on history, you’ll enjoy these other Matador titles:
10 Key Destinations For The Historical Time Traveler
How to Take a Foreign History Crash Course in 5 Steps

The latest giveaway from Matador Goods was all about therapy. We’re not talking shrinks, pills, and office visits — no, the name of the game is Travel Therapy, as explained by author Karen Schaler.

Up for grabs was a copy of the book, which offers tips on how to “change your attitude by changing your environment.” Several readers entered the giveaway contest, commenting with descriptions and photos of their favorite travel therapy destinations.

Here are the spots recommended as particularly therapeutic, including the one nominated by the winner of Travel Therapy!

1. “While traveling South East Asia things can get pretty hectic. Touts will hassle you, the traffic will test your nerves and the noise can drive you crazy. In Thailand’s far south on the Malaysian border the small island of Ko Lipe will take you away from it all, where you can relax on the beach and enjoy the serenity.” – Dave Bouskill

2. “The beaches inside Manuel Antonio National Park in Costa Rica. You have to pay to enter the park, so it stays much cleaner than the public beaches in Manuel Antonio. The day I was there, it was closed when I arrived in the morning, but by the afternoon they had opened it with free entry, but by that time people had left, so the park was really empty and it was like our own private beach!” – Powered by Tofu
Photographer: thombo2

3. “I would have to say this photo captures my idea of travel therapy. This was on a hike that I’d wanted to do for a few years but could never work out the logistics to do it. It required 20 miles of kayaking on two different lakes, a 2 mile land portage and a 5 mile hike with 4,000 feet of elevation gain. I eventually found someone crazy enough to do it with me and the weather turned out to be absolutely amazing. Ross Lake is one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen and the view from Desolation Peak is worth every sweat drop of effort getting there.” – Asa

4. “The most perfect day I’ve ever had was in Bourgas, Bulgaria, and I spent a large portion of the day at the beach there…good food, gorgeous day, just wonderful.” – Emilie S
Photographer: Boby Dimitrov

5. “After cycling 4000 km and climbing Mount Kilimanjaro there is no better place to relax than Nungwi, Zanzibar. Turquoise waters, fresh seafood and sandy beaches that reach far out to sea at low tide will wash your blues away and rejuvenate you for the road ahead. Here is my photo of zen.”
- Dave and Deb

6. “I want to escape somewhere where there is nothing to do but look at the sky, the water, and sleep. A beach is great, but being in the mountains in a cabin with a breeze and a beautiful sunset would be awesome too.” – MRS.MOMMYY
Photographer: annia316

Drumroll please: AND THE WINNER IS…

7. “I find Bali very therapeutic. It can be very hectic & the traffic is sometimes horrendous (especially around the main tourist areas) but there’s something about the charm and grace of the Balinese, the enchanting scenery and temples, and the amazing spas (the concept was probably invented there!) that I find absolutely soothing. Sinking my feet into the cool sand of Jimbaran or Seminyak with a cold beer and a lobster platter while watching the sunset is my idea of bliss!” – Keith Jenkins

Community Connection

The isn’t the first time Trips has teamed up with Goods to announce the winner of a giveaway. For more photo essays and more winners, check out:

Photo Essay: Readers’ Favorite Family Vacation Destinations
Matador Goods Photo Contest Finalists

Also, make sure to keep an eye on Matador Goods for their next contest!

Photo: Lola Akinmade

Let’s face it: Peru hasn’t done much to make Machu Picchu a budget travel destination.

You’ll drop at least a few hundred on a trek along the Inca Trail. Longer routes can run up to four digits a person, if you book with an agency that actually pays their guides and porters well and cares something for the environment.

Or you have the train. For a seat in the lowest class (Backpacker), British-owned PeruRail charges $50 for the three-hour one-way journey from Poroy (Cuzco). If this is sold out—as it often is in the high season—you’ll need to upgrade to Vistadome class for $70.

And that’s just the transportation. Once you get to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town), you’ll be faced with inflated hostel rates and food prices. And finally, the unavoidable 124 soles (~$40) for entry to the site itself.

Photo: foxtwo

All told, you’re looking at around $200/person as a minimum.

Fortunately, within the last couple years a new option has popped up, one that hasn’t yet made it into most guidebooks: Machu Picchu by car.

By avoiding the overpriced train, this route cuts transportation costs by two thirds.

All-inclusive tours are actually a pretty good deal, while diehard budget travelers can go independently to save even more.

The Tour

This relatively new tour is offered by most agencies clustered around the Plaza de Armas and other tourist areas in Cuzco. Just look for the telltale sign: “Machu Picchu by car.” One online agent even seems to specialize in it.

A good pricing rule to remember: the farther from the plaza you wander, the cheaper the prices you’ll find.

I got mine from an agent on Cuesta San Blas (just below the boutique hotel Casa San Blas) for $115.

All-inclusive is the standard:

* hotel pick-up
* bus or van transport to the hydroelectric station outside Santa Teresa
* tickets for the 45-minute train ride from there to Aguas Calientes
* a night’s accommodation in town
* two full meals plus snacks
* entrance to Machu Picchu
* a two-hour guided tour of the site

Lunch on the last day isn’t provided. Neither are tickets for the shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes to the ruins ($7 one way; many people walk).

Even better, for an additional $10 per person you can add an extra night to the tour. This is highly recommended. The standard 2-day/1-night schedule only allows you five hours at the ruins (6am–11am). Stay another night and you’ll get the entire day at the site.

Not only does this give you the opportunity to spend more time climbing Wayna Picchu, visiting the Inca Bridge, and exploring other remote corners of the ruins, but it also enables you to outlast the thick fog that sometimes blows up in the morning.

Destinations

Community Connection to Peru

Tour rates higher than those listed above indicate one of two things:
1. You’ll be staying in more luxurious accommodations in Aguas Calientes and your guide will likely speak more intelligible English, or
2. You’re getting ripped off.

Remember, it pays to haggle and shop around.

One final note: as with most budget travel, you’re sacrificing comfort for cost. The bus ride takes 6 hours, the last 2–3 on dirt roads with some rough spots and a couple cliffside sections that’ll make you regret nabbing the window seat.

If prone to motion sickness, pick up a few Gravol tablets at any pharmacy before heading out.

Go Independent

“More savings!” you say.

Most agencies will happily book you the van ride only, for around 85 soles (~$30) round trip, leaving you to figure out the rest on your own.

If you go this route, here’s how to make sure you stick to the savings:

* Don’t take the $8 train from the hydroelectric station to Aguas Calientes. You can easily walk the tracks in an hour and a half (many people do this).

* If possible, bring all your own food. There are no cheap “local haunts” in Aguas Calientes, and most restaurants will tack a “local tax” ranging anywhere from 10 to 20+ percent onto your bill.

* Camp! Instead of blowing $20 or more on a forgettable hostel bed, pitch a tent ($5 per tent, per night) at the little riverside campground just south of the Puente Ruinas bridges. It’s a 15-minute walk from town, but there’s a little store with necessities on-site.

Plus, you have a great view of Machu Picchu up the mountain (no one back in town does), and you’re in a better position to begin the hour-long climb up the Inca stairs in the early morning to snag a front spot in the entrance line.

The polished Manuel Chávez Ballón Site Museum is also nearby (though unfortunately they’ve started charging admission; 21 soles/11 for students).

Remember that you’ll need to buy your entrance ticket to Machu Picchu at the INC office in Aguas Calientes, as they’re not sold at the site itself.

Follow these tips and you could be looking at a grand total of $80 for your Machu Picchu experience.

Community Connection

Some people are against visiting Machu Picchu, no matter how cheap they can do it. Read why in 9 Places to Experience Now Before They Literally Vanish.

The latest edition of Lonely Planet: Peru was published too long ago to have info on the Machu Picchu by car tour. On that note, check out Trips’ 9 Ways to Outdo the Guidebooks in Peru.

Plenty of Matador community blogs cover Machu Picchu, Cuzco, and the surrounding region. Find out what local Peruvian farmers think of PeruRail’s train service in Struck by Strike in Peru. Matador member jgbrandt shares A Short Video on Lima, Cuzco, and the Sacred Valley, and you can also read 5 Things You Should Know about the Typical Sacred Valley Tour out of Cuzco.

Photos: Travellohr

If you’re planning a visit to the Vineyard this summer, Matador member Travellohr can give you the lowdown on the local scene. As she says:

I’m there every year, riding my bike from town to town, hanging out on the many beaches, and getting into the island’s lifestyle.

Here’s a little more on this week’s featured expert:

About me: A trip to Israel led me – finally!!! – to the realization of what I want to do with my life – write about my travels. This, happily, requires me to travel more than I used to. I was blessed to start getting published soon after I began writing. And I’ve yet to explore most of the world.

Why I travel: I am acutely aware that I live in just one small speck of our huge world. If I’m not exploring it, I’m wasting it.

Favorite places I’ve been: Israel; Germany; Venice, Italy; Wales; London, England

Travellohr also started an intense discussion on the Matador community blog pages by asking, Is Domestic Travel “Real” Travel? – What do you think?

Find the above information and more in her Matador profile.

Community Connection

Matador’s destination experts are just one facet of a travel community that’s growing larger, stronger, and deeper every day. If you haven’t yet signed on, now’s the time! Click here to get started.

Photo above: left-hand, Feature photo: mandj98

The neon sign, one of Vegas’ most recognizable landmarks, was installed in 1959, back in the casino town’s glory days.

Now, it’s been added to the ranks of the National Register of Historic Places — a fitting designation for a structure that very well could be the city’s oldest. Casinos come and casinos go, but the ultra-retro welcome emblem has managed to survive unaltered. Read more on the story here.

Throughout its five decades, the sign has also been featured in countless photos snapped by Strip-goers.

Do you have a good shot of the famous landmark? Share it with the world by posting a link in the comments.

Community Connection

Visitors with a desire to mix some environmentalism with their gambling should check out Matador’s Green Guide to Las Vegas. Or, to truly get in touch with Sin City, hit up The Top Dive Bars in Las Vegas.

For a local’s perspective on this desert oasis, give Walker Rose’s My Hometown in 500 Words: Las Vegas, NV a read.

1. Preikestolen, Norway
Photographer: claudiomoderini

2. Gozo Cliffs, Malta
Photographer: ino paap

3. Mystery spot: Let us know in the comments below where this photograph was taken. To the first person that gets it right we’ll send a new Laken water bottle.
Photographer: ?–contact us

4. The Eiger, Switzerland
Photographer: Ai@ce

5. Gordon’s Bay, near Cape Town, South Africa
Photographer: danflo

6. Half Dome, Yosemite National Park, USA
Photographer: jurvetson

7. Perrine Bridge in Twin Falls, Idaho, USA
Photographer: Mister M•

8. White Mountains, New Hampshire, USA
Photographer: BurningQuestion

9. The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
Photographer: w00kie

10. Kjerag, Lysefjorden, Norway
Photographer: hakonthingstad

11. Mont Margeriaz, Rhone-Alpes, France
Photographer: *pascal*

12. Zion National Park, USA
Photographer: pawpaw67

13. Pikes Peak, Colorado, USA
Photographer: ishrona

Community Connection

Heart racing? Palms sweaty? Keep the rush going with 6 American Mountains to Climb for Big Adventure, 8 Massive Mountains That Mortals Can Summit, and 11 Most Dangerous Mountains in the World for Climbers.

Also, what did we miss? Please leave any other EDGE’s you know in the comments!

Photo above: notsogoodphotography, Feature photo: the trial

It’s a time when many take to the beach to relax or get their sport on, and the Guardian’s travel section recently released a top-10 list of the world’s best stretches of sand.

Who’d they ask? People who know their beaches — marine biologists, surfing instructors, and divers, among others.

Photo: notsogoodphotography

Here’s what they came up with:

1. Kapalua Bay, Maui, Hawaii, U.S.
2. Hossegor, France
3. Hyams Beach, New South Wales, Australia
4. Porthtowan, Cornwall, United Kingdom
5. Bingin Beach, Bali
6. Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman Island
7. Sifah beach, Oman
8. Namotu, Fiji
9. Punta Lobos, southern Chile
10. Pease Bay, Scotland

Look at the geographical diversity of this list. You can literally find your favorite anywhere in the world.

They offer different colors and textures of sand, different crowds, different surf breaks…different ways to enjoy the summer.

We at Trips want to know: what are your favorite beaches? Where can you be found come June 21, and what will you be doing there? Let us know in the comments!

Community Connection

Matador has covered a variety of beach-related topics, from the Best Nude Beaches in the World to Simple Beach Yoga for Backpackers.

Need help figuring out your family summer travel plans? Maybe a photo essay of reader-recommended family destinations is what you need.

Matador Goods has done it again!

A week and a half ago, they announced yet another book giveaway. Up for grabs was a copy of National Geographic’s The 10 Best of Everything Families, a volume chock-full of suggestions for family travel in the U.S.

To enter the contest, all readers had to do was leave a comment describing their favorite family vacation destination. The Goods team picked one winner at random, and we here at Trips are pleased to be able to present — accompanied by photos — all of the submitted destinations.

In honor of the family summer road trip, here they are:

1. “I live in Texas, so on vacation we go to the beach. We have had lots of fun at Corpus Christi and Galveston. Although Galveston was hit by a hurricane and it has not been built back yet. We love to camp out at night and during the day go to the beaches. The kids love this and it is like two vacations in one. Camping and the beach.” – Carlene
Photographer: eschipul

2. “We love Panama City Beach FL. Thanks for the giveaway!” – kim v
Photographer: SugarCreekPhoto

3. “My family loves to go to the Jersey shore, we go to the beach and realx, then walk the board eat and have fun!” – susan
Photographer: joiseyshowaa

4. “My family’s favorite destination is Cape Cod. Quite uncrowded once you get to the Outer Cape, wonderful beaches bay-side and sound-side, beautiful nature, lots of family-friendly places, lots of quiet. It is absolutely dreamy.” – Elena
Photographer: twoblueday

5. “We love to visit Holland, Michigan just about every year. The beaches are beautiful and there is so much to see and do and so many friendly people! Thanks for the contest!” – Hillary Fairchild
Photographer: msprague

6. “Pella Iowa, during the tulip festival is adorable. Cute town, great bakeries, and even a windmill.” – Kelly Ann T.
Photographer: cwwycoff1

7. “It has to be Sanibel Island, Florida. We LOVE it there.” – Carol
“WOW someone else had my destination too. I love Sanibel Island too the shells are fabulous! I try to get there once a year.” – chris swan
Photographer: Christina Welsh (Rin)

8. “My favorite vacation is going to the West Edmonton Mall (Edmonton, Canada) for the day. It’s the water park or the amusement park or just exploring the oh so many shops and maybe just maybe dropping some coin on the way. And you guessed it, for us the only affordable vacation we get most of the time. Every couple of years we do splurge, unfortunately not this year. Cheers.” – Marion Greenwood
Photographer: fdecomite

9. “An often-overlooked (and incredibly cheap) vacation destination within the US is Hermann, Missouri (http://www.hermannmissouri.com/). The locals are friendly, the buildings are German, and the wineries are fantastic. Be sure to stop in to Adam Puchta Winery and try the Norton (grape not available anywhere else!) and the Vignoles. It’s a little out of the way, but really, all good wineries are!” – Colin Wright
Photographer: johnnyalive

10. “My family’s favorite vacation is a trip to the beach, and our favorite beach is on Coronado Island near San Diego. The Hotel del Coronado adds old world charm, and the beach itself is fantastic. Definitely a winner in our books.” – Renee G
Photographer: Pez

11. “We love going to Reno!” – Mishia
Photographer: Zack Sheppard

*****
And the lucky winner is…
*****

12. “Our family’s favorite destination so far has been Washington DC–all the sights and history is incredible and it is so green!” – Carol S
Photographer: dbking

*****
Congrats to Carol S, and many thanks to all who entered!
*****

Community Connection:

Stay tuned for more contests from Matador Goods — there’s nothing they like more than to hook you up with free stuff!

For the results of a previous contest, check out this photo essay.

Photos: author

This week’s featured expert goes one step further than most in demonstrating love of place:

“I have the word ‘kiwi’ tattoed over my right ankle with the first ‘i’ being the north island and the second ‘i’ the south. I was in Biarritz after the All Blacks got knocked out (again) of the 2007 World Cup and this was my way of showing support.”

Now, there’s no doubt this is the guy you can go to with questions on NZ’s North Island. Here’s some more about nzjosh:

“I was born at the bottom of six generations of kiwis. Mum’s side come from the mutineering Cornish boy Fletcher Christian; dads side also from Cornwall but not quite as celebrated as mums.

I grew up in the centre-north of N.Z. near the wild(er than the east) west coast and spent a lot of time outdoors playing in the waves, caves, hot springs, rivers and bush.

Basically if you go to NZ you go to party with nature cause she’s up for it there. Just like you’d go to Berlin for a dance or France for great big platters of cheese and wotnot. ENJOWY!”

Recently escaped from cubicle-land, nzjosh is on the hunt for new direction.

He’s fired up on “Creation. Truth. New hobbies & improving old ones. Life,” and is next traveling to an unlikely pair of island destinations: Ireland/Borneo.

To question or collaborate, click over to his Matador profile.

Community Connection:

Like I said, Matador’s got the globe covered with experts. Click the “destination expert” tag below to see those we’ve featured here on Trips, or follow this link to peruse the entire roster.

It also bears repeating that we’re always interested in signing up new experts. This forum post will tell you all you need to know.

Photo above: Mossaiq, Feature photo: laverrue

Tourists, rejoice!

Matador subscribers have likely already heard the buzz surrounding the reopening of the Statue of Liberty’s crown to visitors.

Photo: Lori Greig

Shortly after President Obama took office, Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar visited the national monument and expressed his desire to do away with the post-9/11 restriction — pending a full safety review, of course.

That review has been completed, and last Friday Salazar announced that, starting July 4, the crown will receive its first visitors in nearly eight years.

To commemorate the event, NPR followed up with a list of facts about the iconic American landmark…some of which may surprise you.

Statue of Liberty fun facts

Flesh and bone: Our fair lady’s form is rendered in copper, supported by a framework of steel and a 27,000-ton concrete foundation. Her torch (which unfortunately will remain inaccessible to tourists) reaches 305 feet above the ground.

Photo: Oquendo

A room with a view: Visitors will be able to gaze from the 25 windows cut into the crown, giving a unique perspective on the New York skyline across the harbor.

Steady now!: On a blustery day, concentrate hard and you might be able to feel the statue sway. It shifts as much as three inches when hit with 50 mph gusts.

Beacon of hope?: Despite the uplifting symbolism of the statue, at least three people have committed suicide by throwing themselves from its heights. Hopefully the safety improvements that have been made took this into consideration.

Don’t forget France: A well-known fact that bears repeating. The statue came as a gift from France in 1886 to honor the success of U.S. democracy. Merci!

Community Connection:

For the scoop on seeing this and other NYC attractions during these economically questionable times, check out our Budget Guide to New York City.

To enter, Matadorians submitted photos from their trekking and climbing experiences. We here at Trips selected our 6 favorites, including one standout shot that earned its photographer the grand prize.

Without further ado, here they are:

1. Atop Gokyo Ri (17,575ft/5357m), a trekking peak in the Khumbu Himalaya. On the summit, we were rewarded with stellar views of Cho Oyu, the eighth highest mountain in the world, as well as these frozen prayer flags. Deciding to do an unconventional Nepal trek was one of the most rewarding choices I made during my academic semester there back in 2006. Photographer: Alan

2. Zazen on Mt. Rishiri, Hokkaido. Photographer: Matador’s own Tim Patterson!

3. A man walks alone along a ridge beneath Batian, Mount Kenya’s highest peak (17057 ft). Photographer: Jonny

4. Trekking in Pisac, Peru. Photographer: Lola Akinmade (No, of course she wasn’t eligible to win, but we had to include this great shot anyway!)

5. Six days walking to Annapurna base camp in Nepal only to have the view covered by low level clouds. Once they started clearing though the views were unforgetable. And well woth a picture of course. Photographer: Matt Scott

And the winner…

6. Forget favorite mountain, this has to be one of my favorite spots on the planet: period. Khopara ridge is within a day or two’s trek of the popular Annapurna circuit in Nepal, but only sees 10s of visitors a year. A single rocky trekker’s hut graces the top of the ridge, and lets you sit and contemplate life high above the clouds. Photographer: Andris Bjornson

Congratulations to Andris, and thanks to everyone who entered!

Community Connection:

Feel like you missed your chance? Fear not — there’s another contest on at Goods right now!

All photos: jamesdale10

A few days ago, NPR reported on one of the world’s newest tourist attractions…in one of the world’s most unlikely places.

That’s right — one of Saddam Hussein’s many palaces, this one located near the site of ancient Babylon and the modern city of Hilla, is now open to the public.

A quick tour goes for around a buck, while a night in one of the complex’s swanky guesthouses will run you $180.

Reactions

Iraqis have so far exhibited mixed reactions to their country’s newest tourist draw.

For some, setting foot in the palace, which still features murals depicting the ex-dictator, conjures up too many bad memories.

Others, though, relish the symbolism: Saddam is gone, and his once-exclusive realm is now open to ordinary Iraqis.

It’s unclear how many international visitors will be lured by the opening of the palace. Apart from the poorly preserved ruins of Babylon, the region doesn’t offer much in the way of tourist infrastructure.

Oh yeah, and there’s still a war going on.

Yet, some folks are set on making the journey to Iraq to see the situation for themselves. If you’re one of them, make sure to check out today’s companion piece, “How To Travel To Iraq Without Getting Killed.”

Community Connection:

I’d love to hear what any Iraqis think of this development. Would you visit Saddam’s Babylon palace?

What about the rest of you? Is this a legitimate attraction, or does it strike you as just a little bit…off?

Photos: jgbrandt

In a little over a year of membership, jgbrandt has racked up 73 blog posts on the Matador community site. Not only that, but his profile is overflowing with engaging photographs from his travels, both in Ecuador and other corners of the world.

Now several months into a stay in Ecuador, jgbrandt has all the info needed to answer your questions on the region:

Ecuador’s a small country, but with 4 distinct regions and rough roads, traveling around can take some time. It’s also one of the most diverse countries I’ve ever seen. I’ve been living in Cuenca, high in the sierra and have traveled to all of the regions, except for deep into the jungle.

If you’re heading this way I’ve got relevant information on everything from buses, hostels, things to do and not to do, and much more. First tip: Take whatever the guide book says with a grain of salt.

Here’s a little more on this week’s featured expert:

About me: I find myself redefining “normal” every day. Each challenge, each triumph, each setback is moving me one step closer to the person I’ll become once I leave this place. I’m teaching English at the University of Cuenca for a year and trying to get dual citizenship with Argentina to move there next.

The things I’ve seen and done, the people I’ve met in my travels, all have led me to believe that there’s something great out there worth experiencing while it’s possible. And the best part I’ll keep for myself.

Why I travel: It’s the best way to learn about another society and culture. Books, pictures, and anything else will never do enough justice unless you’ve been there and seen it for yourself. I think if we all traveled we’d understand each other a lot better.

Pretending to ride the tortoise

This isn’t the first time jgbrandt’s been featured on Matador. To find out what’s on his bookshelf, read the inaugural edition of “My Favorite Books” over at Matador Goods.

Make sure to check out his Matador profile for frequent updates from Cuenca. He also gave us a stunning account, complete with video, of the final chapter in a centuries-old tradition in “The Last Iceman of Chimborazo.”

As if this weren’t enough, he also regularly posts to his personal blog, Travel Guy.

Community Connection:

Visit this page to browse Trips’ ever-expanding catalog of featured experts.

Do you know a place inside and out? Read this forum post to find out how YOU can become a Matador destination expert.

Photo above: Brocco Lee, Feature photo: johnsheldon

Following California’s passage of Proposition 8 last November, which revoked the right of homosexual couples to marry, Eva Holland posted “The World’s Best Spots for a Same-Sex Wedding.” The piece highlighted six international destinations where folks of the same sex could still tie the knot.

Photo: CarbonNYC

Today’s post comes on the heels of more upbeat news — Maine has become the latest U.S. state to legalize gay marriage.

The bill passed 21-13 in the Senate and was signed into law by Governor Baldacci a mere hour later.

Rights groups are obviously thrilled, though it’s possible the new legislation could be overturned by voters, much as it was in California.

New Hampshire lawmakers also approved a gay marriage bill, but Governor Lynch has yet to sign it. The governor’s contact info can be found here if you’d like to weigh in.

Anyway, with a new addition to the ranks, I think it’s time to name the best spots for a same-sex wedding…in the U.S.:

Portland, Maine

The “other” Portland just got a little hipper. Now you can walk cobblestone streets, dine on clam chowder, and wed your same-sex partner. What are you waiting for?

Visitors, also make sure to check out Matador’s green guide to Portland.

Des Moines, Iowa

As Julie Schwietert reported last month, Iowa’s Supreme Court recently ruled in favor of allowing gays to marry.

Since California folded, this makes the Hawkeye State the only one outside New England to give homosexuals this right. The first marriages were held April 27th.

Cape Cod, Massachusetts

Yup, this one was the only U.S. destination featured in Eva’s piece, and it’s still relevant today. Not only was MA the first to open its arms to gay marriage, it also allows couples from out of state to tie the knot.

Burlington, Vermont

Once upon a time the first state to authorize civil unions for gay couples, Vermont joined the marriage ranks last month when its legislature overrode a governor’s veto to pass the law.

Burlington is gorgeous in the summertime. The late evening sunsets turn Lake Champlain a deep crimson — the perfect backdrop for your outdoor nuptials.

Waterbury, Connecticut

Just a month before California’s Prop 8, a Connecticut Supreme Court ruling made it the third state to accept gay marriage. What better place than historic Waterbury to exercise new rights of matrimony?

Community Connection:

Have you tied the knot in one of these or other U.S. destinations? Share your experience in the comments!

Photo above: *spud*, Feature photo: pfala

Life.com has uncovered the world’s 10 most photographed cities. Or, at least, they’ve conducted a search of Flickr photos and determined which 10 cities are tagged most often by site users.

You can check out the list at the source, but here’s what made the cut:

10. Toronto
9. Barcelona
8. Berlin
7. Seattle
6. Tokyo
5. Chicago
4. San Francisco
3. Paris
2. New York City
1. London

It’s impossible to know which cities are actually photographed most frequently (I’d wager Beijing), but a quick perusal through my own electronic album seems to put me in the company of the Flickr aficionados — I have around 1,000 shots of London, taken during a quick 10-day visit last September.

What does this list say about the cities on it? Are they more attractive than others, or do they simply host more tourists (or more Flickr members)?

Do you agree with the results? What cities feature most prominently in your collection? Create your own top 10 in the comments!

Community Connection:

For tips on how to bust out killer travel photos, read up on Ryan Libre’s Studies in Travel Photography: Perspective, Timing, and Themes.

We can’t all get the perfect shot all the time. For the post-processors out there, here’s a rundown of Free Photo Editing Software to Enhance Your Travel Photography.

Photo above: earcos, Feature photo: moriza

Europe

Amsterdam

The “bicycling capital of Europe” tops many lists—including this one, it seems—as the most bike friendly city anywhere. Safe and extensive route networks, serious governmental promotion, and a bike culture that transcends class boundaries are all reasons why 40% of the city’s traffic moves on two wheels.

Barcelona

Barcelona’s Bicing program, one of many mass bike rental systems that have popped up recently in Europe and beyond, debuted two years ago, and the Catalan capital hasn’t looked back. An annual Bike Week is held in late May to spread the word.

Berlin

Photo: tandemracer

Commuting Berliners are never lonely—400,000 of them pedal to work each day. City leaders still aren’t satisfied with this figure, and millions of euros have been allocated to encourage more cyclists to take to the streets. There’s even a website that helps you map out bike-specific routes.

Copenhagen

In the Danish capital, nearly a third of the workforce gets to the office by bike. By some estimates, that’s more than 1 million kilometers pedaled every day!

For a truly alternative urban experience, check out Christiania, a neighborhood of 850 that, in addition to setting up a semi-independent government and decriminalizing trade in cannabis, has banned cars.

Paris

Paris gets a nod here for its creation of Vélib’, the world’s largest public bicycle rental program. Twenty thousand stylish three-speeds are distributed among 1,450 rental stations throughout the city, available to subscribers at variable rates (rides under 30 minutes are free).

North America

Boulder

Denver’s little hippy bro to the north dedicates 15% of its transportation budget to improving and promoting bicycle travel. Nearly every major roadway has a designated cycling area, and they’ve even instituted a pilot program to get kids biking to school. This guy has created a very cool color-coded route map, complete with local attractions.

Chicago

Photo: mugley

Mayor Richard Daley is set on turning Chicago into “the most bicycle-friendly city in the United States.” It doesn’t appear to be all talk, either, as more bike lanes pop up all the time, and last year the city passed laws to protect cyclists’ safety.

All you could ever want to know about Chicago’s bicycle initiatives—and much more—can be found here.

Davis

It’s said that there are more bikes than cars in this small, northern California city of 62,000. Not only that, but its official motto is “Most bicycle friendly town in the world.” Davis has no school buses—kids are encouraged to ride to class instead. The entire month of May is dedicated to Cyclebration…and the list goes on.

Ottawa

The States may have its bright spots, but the fact remains that Canada’s capital claims the highest percentage of bike commuters on the continent. Its 170 km worth of paths make it easy to get from point A to B, though two-wheeled traffic is sure to drop between December and March. Further info is available here.

Photo: MaximeF

Portland

You were worried there for a second, weren’t you? No, I haven’t forgotten what most people consider the bike capital of the U.S. The only thing as impressive as Portland’s bicycle infrastructure (including a 260-mile network) and commuter stats (almost 10%, the highest in the country) is the camaraderie of its cyclist community.

San Francisco

The founding city of the Critical Mass bicycle demonstration can’t be overlooked. Over the past decade, bicycle collisions have declined while the number of bike commuters has nearly doubled.

Photo: Charles Haynes

Add San Francisco’s constant activities like removing car parking to make room for bike parking, distributing Watch for Bikes stickers (to be placed on driver’s side rearview mirrors), and its pending Bike Share program and you get one of the world’s bike-friendliest cities.

Elsewhere

Photo: Dan Zen

Beijing

Debatable? Sure. But the city with probably the most bicycles of any in the world can’t be considered bike unfriendly, can it?

The sheer number of cyclists necessitates some pretty sophisticated infrastructure for the travel, storage, and repair of two-wheeled vehicles.

Cape Town

African cities might not be the first you think of for bike friendliness, but Cape Town is doing its best to change that.

The South African capital is in the process of beefing up its pedal-power credentials with the creation of cycling lanes, dedicated bike parking, and public commuter showers.

Bogotá

Bogotá’s transportation initiatives have been a model for change throughout Latin America, and its treatment of bicycles is no exception. Miles of safe, segregated bike paths and Sunday Ciclovía events (where main throughways are closed to cars) make Colombian cyclists very happy.

Perth

With more than 700 km of bike routes and plenty to see along them, Australia’s fourth largest city is where it’s at for Down Under saddle jockeys. For maps, recommended rides, and other cycling goodies, this site has what you need.

Community Connection:

If you’re looking for some inspiration to make the switch to bike commuting, check out this article.

In the interest of geographical diversity, this list includes picks from across the globe. Did we get some wrong? Leave any out? Let us know in the comments!

And the bigger questions… What is it that makes a place “bike friendly” anyway, and how can you encourage your city, town, or village to fall in line?

All photos: Carl Montgomery

Near-continuous violence since the Soviets invaded in 1979 has been effective at erasing Afghanistan from most tourists’ maps.

But it seems the government is hoping for a change with the creation last week of the country’s first national park. In addition to attracting visitors, the park should provide vital protection to a region where it’s been lacking in the past.

Band-e-Amir National Park is located in central Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush Mountains and includes five high-altitude lakes. Nearby Bamyan Valley made headlines in 2001 when its massive, 1,500-year-old Buddha statues where dynamited by the Taliban.

The park’s establishment could also tip the scales in the region’s favor regarding its pending candidacy for UNESCO World Heritage status.

Visitors will still have difficulties to contend with — ongoing military actions being the first that comes to mind, as well as a local fishing method utilizing hand grenades. But the park also offers much in the way of pristine nature, according to BBC reporter Alan Johnston:

“In the stillness of the high, thin air, the blue and turquoise waters are often like glass, perfectly reflecting the slopes around them.”

For more on this fresh travel destination, check out the BBC’s take here.

Community Connection:

Alan Johnston isn’t the only one reporting from the ground in Afghanistan. Matador members YoLeven and moshdeh are currently in-country, and they’ve posted a couple killer blogs about their experiences.

Other ideas on travel to protected natural areas, including some as unexpected as this one, can be found in 13 of the World’s Richest National Parks.

One of the newest members of our growing roster of Matador destination experts, Dominic is a travel writer and photographer based in Montevideo.

About me: I say “cheers” in ten languages and counting. I enjoy meeting newness – whether it be a different type of cheese or a new country.

In addition to Uruguay, some of his favorite travel destinations have been Colombia, Australia, Japan, and Denmark.

I’m fired up on: Culture. History. Writing. Photography. Speaking Spanish. Playing basketball. Reading. Cooking. Still learning more and more salsa. New-ness. Now.

Dominic has this to say about his adopted home country: “Whether you are in the town-ish capital city of Montevideo, or hanging out on the beaches of Rocha, Uruguay will offer its visitor a memorable time.”

Let’s collaborate: I am currently in Montevideo, writing for a few publications, starting to take my photography seriously (as I know when and where to show my expensive camera and equipment). I am keeping a blog here if you want to check it out.

For further collaboration, visit his Matador profile.

Community Connection:

The Matador community is full of destination experts who can help you plan your next trip, field oddball questions about their region, or just fill out your travel network! Search their ranks on this page.

For information on how to become a destination expert yourself, click here.

Photo above: NeilsPhotography, Feature photo: juanete

Psychedelic desert: the Southwest Circuit

You’re in the middle of Bolivian nowhere.

In front of you is a shallow bowled depression, its center carpeted in a bright green lake filled with flamingos. Over your shoulder rise twin volcanic peaks, capped with ice. Just beyond the next ridge stretches a snow-white salt flat, rippling with heat from the midday sun…

Few travelers to Bolivia miss the “Southwest Circuit.” The Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat, is its star attraction. Standing in the center of its 4,000-square-mile expanse, horizons vanish, leaving nothing but blinding white below and rich, unblemished blue above.

Those lucky enough to visit during the wet summer, when the entire plain is covered in an inches-thick pool of water that reflects the cloudy sky, can convince themselves their Land Cruiser has taken flight.

But the salar fills only one day of the circuit tour. The rest are spent tearing through some of the most inhospitable desert terrain on the planet.

Brilliantly colored chemical lakes, peak after peak of snowy volcanoes, and Andean wildlife (llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, flamingos, and ostrich, for starters) all compete with the salar for your camera’s memory card megabytes.

Photo: zaturno

I doubt anyone regrets the trip—that said, all tours are not created equal.

The salar and deserts of Los Lípez see more visitors every year. Caravans of jeeps depart daily from the town of Uyuni, the traditional starting point. After four days stuck in the middle of the globular tourist amoeba, many are left asking, “Is there a better way to do this?”

The answer is yes.

Turn the tables: start in Tupiza

Your best option for escaping the crowds is to traverse the circuit in reverse. Make the town of Tupiza your point of origin, with a tour that loops through the sights and ends in Uyuni.

Photo: zaturno

In addition to having the Lípez to yourself, you’ll be saving the best for last. Why knock out the salar on the first day, as the typical Uyuni tours do? They also require a long, backtracking drive on the last day.

By ditching the masses, you’ll avoid the sketchier agencies operating out of Uyuni. Companies there pop up and disappear again without notice, making it close to impossible to get reliable recommendations.

For the most part, Tupiza-based agencies are more established. They have a smaller customer base, and therefore more to prove.

Regardless of who you go with, your tour from Tupiza will look something like this:

Day 1

Bust out of town around 9am and drive till sunset through canyon-cut, cactus-covered terrain. Though lacking “big-name” sights, the day exposes you to the desolation of Los Lípez and gives you a glimpse of what life is like for the few communities living here. Other jeeps = scarce to nonexistent.

Day 2

The mountainous, llama-filled desert continues, transforming mile by mile into the surreal vistas that make it onto the postcards. Once you enter Eduardo Avaroa National Wildlife Refuge, it’s on: colored lakes, hot springs, flamingo flocks, geysers, crazy rock formations, and painted volcanoes.

At some point, you’ll hit Laguna Verde and Volcán Licancabur in the country’s southwest corner. From here, you can tack on an extra day and climb the 19,400 ft (5900 m) Licancabur or other peaks. It’s also possible to hop over the border, connecting to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.

Photo: wili_hybrid

Day 3

After two days of solitude, the Land Cruisers start to multiply around the eerily red Laguna Colorada. Pulling up at the sculpted rocks that surround Árbol de Piedra, only to find them covered with sunburned, North-Faced climbers, comes as quite a shock.

More lakes await, and the end of the day will bring you to the edge of the salar itself.

Day 4

Photo: hillsieboy

This is really a long half day. Wake before dawn to catch the sunrise on the salt.

A visit to the cactus-infested Isla del Pescado is followed by a group photo shoot in the middle of the salar, where the lack of distance perspective makes all kinds of crazy camera illusions possible.

After checking out a hotel made entirely of salt and a stop at a tourist market, you should pull into Uyuni around 1pm.

Practicalities

Tupiza is roughly 11 hours by train from Oruro, and a handful more from La Paz. Hop the train if you can; the buses running the route are old and drafty. Breakdowns are common.

Solo travelers and couples should schedule at least one extra day in Tupiza — longer in the low season — to find a group to hook up with. Standard tours won’t leave with fewer than four passengers; five or six means less legroom but bigger savings.

Photo: Naturaleza

Killing time in town isn’t difficult. This is Butch and Sundance country (the outlaws were gunned down in a village less than an hour away), with scenery rivaling the best of the American West.

Horseback riding, canyon hiking, and rock climbing will keep you occupied till your tour leaves.

Operators running out of Tupiza are scarce compared to the hordes of Uyuni-based agencies. Tupiza Tours is one of the originals and has managed to maintain a solid reputation through the years. Yet even with them, it’s essential to double check the contract—triple check if your group is doing anything other than the standard 4-day tour.

Other options include Valle Hermoso and El Grano de Oro Tours.

One last note: it gets cold in the desert. Damn cold. Accommodations are basic and unheated. Bring a sleeping bag or rent one from your company — even in the summer. During the winter, if you’re lucky your guide will give you a hot water bottle each night to stuff into the bottom of your bag. Yeah…daaaamn cold.

Photo: jaytkendall

Community Connection:

Check out today’s companion post, “Summiting Mount Doom in Bolivia,” for further details on climbing Volcán Licancabur.

For more on Bolivia’s spectacular sights, read about photographer Ron Dubin’s assignment in the country in “Big Bolivian Sunsets.”

If you’re looking to mix a little philanthropy with your visit to the country, Matador member org Sustainable Bolivia offers a range of rewarding volunteer opportunities.

Feature photo: kiki-bolivien, Others: author

Images of Tolkien’s volcano come to mind. Perfectly coned slopes loom over a stretch of desert so sinister it could be taken for Mordor itself.

I always thought Frodo was a chump, but after climbing the 19,423 ft (5,920 m) Licancabur, I’m willing to cut him some slack.

Backdrop: Desolation

This peak lives in the extreme southwestern corner of Bolivia, straddling the border with Chile.

The nearest town, San Pedro de Atacama, is on the Chilean side, but the trail to the summit is in Bolivian territory.

Lagunas Verde and Blanca (named for the colors of their naturally chemical-rich waters) lie at Licancabur’s base, and this pocket of surreal scenery is visited on most tours of Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit.

Getting to the mountain independently is possible, but it’s more conveniently done as an add-on day to the tour. Either way, a guide is mandatory for the climb.

The Ascent

After a short sleep in one of the little refugios on the shore of Laguna Blanca, the trek begins an hour before sunrise. With its silhouette blacking out the stars, Licancabur is even more ominous.

You’ll start shedding layers once the sun crests the horizon and soaks everything in golden warmth. The new light will also have you throwing glances over your shoulder after each deliberate step to gawk at the desert plain, dotted with volcanic humps, stretching away behind you.

The going is slow — your guide wisely sees to that. Even towards the bottom, the elevation can cripple. If you get the soroche headache before the halfway point, you’re done. You won’t be allowed to summit.

The last 500 meters of climb blur — step, gasp, head rush…over and over. No one speaks; no one can. Eventually you hit snow, then the false peak, and 30 minutes later the pile of sticks and stones that marks the top.

The Summit

Your guide will give you no more than 10 minutes topside; you should be ready to descend before that anyway.

Remind yourself to take at least a short break from the camera so you can enjoy the experience LCD-free.

Check out the little lake in the volcano’s crater (some say it’s the highest in the world), and with dizzy eyes try to make out the remains of Incan temple foundations — that’s right, people have been climbing this rock for centuries.

If you’ve been chewing your coca, the descent should be no problem. Each meter dropped is a deeper inhale of O2. By the time you hit bottom, you’ll feel like an Incan mountaineer yourself.

For advice on getting to Licancabur, click over to today’s companion post, “Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit. Backwards.”

Community Connection:

Along with Mount Doom, China’s Tai Shan is another peak heavy with legend. Read how to summit it — and ensure you’ll live to see your 100th birthday — here.

If you prefer your mountains extra spicy, consider these 11 that David DeFranza singled out as the world’s most dangerous.

Photo: Jason Walley, Illustrations: Aya Padrón

Okay, 10 points if you answered “colonists who remained loyal to the British during the American Revolution.” Maybe you even knew that a lot of them immigrated to Canada after 1776.

But Black Loyalists? If you’re like me, you have no idea.

The history

As it turns out, the best place to learn about this chapter in American history isn’t in America at all, but along the southwest coast of Nova Scotia. That’s where boatloads of Loyalists arrived in 1783 to start a new life and keep themselves under the British flag.

Among them were a few thousand African Americans, mostly escapees of Southern slavery who’d fought with the British during the war. For their service, they were transported with everyone else to the area around modern Shelburne, Nova Scotia.

This promising start immediately dissolved into racial inequality. Blacks were forced from Shelburne and made to settle in nearby Birchtown. The Nova Scotian government, in charge of parceling out land and supplies to the Loyalists, put white families at the head of the list and left residents of Birchtown to fend for themselves through the brutal Maritime winters.

After nine years of this, they’d had enough. Most of the surviving Black Loyalists hopped a trans-Atlantic ship and resettled in Sierra Leone. Those that remained faced continued mistreatment and injustice, and only recently has their story gotten airtime.

The place

Plenty of physical reminders of the past can be found in Birchtown…if you know where to look. Start at the Black Loyalist Heritage Society Historical Museum—the only town structure visible from the dilapidated stretch of Highway 3 that passes through it. Though small and clearly underfunded, its handful of exhibits are nonetheless poignant.

From the museum, a short path cuts through mosquitoy woods, past simple stone structures the first settlers built for shelter. The trail ends at Birchtown Bay, next to the Baptist church and a memorial plot believed to have been the village’s burial place.

One inlet over, but worlds apart, sits Shelburne, now a terribly quaint tourist stopover on the coast’s Lighthouse Route. The campground of Islands Provincial Park is located between the two towns—an excellent base for visiting both.

For more on this forgotten story, click over to these Nova Scotia archives.

Community Connection:

You’ve got questions, and we have answers. Travel queries on eastern Canada — Nova Scotia in particular — should be directed to deva, Matador’s expert on the region.

And if you liked this post, keep the knowledge rolling with “Black History Year: 7 Spots to Keep Learning Year Round.”

Why I travel: Why do you breathe or eat or read or go to school?

Ideal place to watch the sunrise: After a 5 hour hike to the peak of Mt. Kenya

Tunes I rock out to: I groove to the sound of my bare feet on a long dirt road.

My neighborhood market in Kenya

jonnyontheroad speaks Swahili in addition to English, and he feels most immersed in a foreign culture when “living with a family and participating in every aspect of running the household. Especially when I’m slaughtering a goat for my Kenyan sister’s fifth birthday.”

To get in touch, visit his Matador profile.

Don’t have your own yet? Membership is free and easy; sign up here.

For more of jonnyontheroad’s writing, visit his blog, On.The.Road.

Photo above: abkfenris, Feature photo: a song under the sugar sugar

Its rough bulk rises from the pine forest, northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail and highest point in Maine at 5,267 feet above sea level.

Mount Katahdin is the centerpiece of Baxter State Park. Governor Percival Baxter created this 150,000-acre tract in 1931 with the intention that it “forever be kept and remain in the Natural Wild State.” In doing so, he gave Katahdin the illustrious title of “mountain of the people of Maine.”

With over 200 miles of trail in the park, summit-bound climbers have options. Cathedral is a fun scramble, but Knife Edge, a razor-thin ridgeline route with thousand-foot drops on either side, earns top props. If you’re all outta juice for the return, the longer but gentler Saddle is a good pick.

Even in summer, Katahdin’s stiff winds and frequent rains can chill. Check current conditions before committing to a climb, pack cold-weather gear, and register at the ranger station before heading up.

Access to Baxter trailheads is limited daily; those serving Katahdin (Roaring Brook, Abol, and Katahdin Stream) are most popular. Maine residents can reserve parking spots in advance, but for everyone else it’s best to camp the night before or arrive wicked early in the morning.

Community Connection:

Got a thing for mountains? Hit up past posts in this series on Quandary Peak and the Zugsptize. For a sweet collection of Matador mountain climbing blogs, visit this page.

Why I travel: I dont know…it’s just such a part of me that being “somewhere else” feels so natural, whilst being at home feels UNnatural. Strange and hard to explain.

I want to make a difference by: Staying open-minded and promoting free thought and creative thinking.

She aims to live in accordance with this quote by Salman Rushdie:

“Go for broke. Always try and do too much. Dispense with safety nets. Take a deep breath before you begin talking. Aim for the stars. Keep grinning. Be bloody-minded. Argue with the world. And never forget that writing is as close as we get to keeping a hold on the thousand and one things–childhood, certainties, cities, doubts, dreams, instants, phrases, parents, loves–that go on slipping, like sand, through our fingers.”

In addition to English, MichaLola speaks Tagalog (Filipino) and lists Thailand, Canada, Spain, and Burma as some of her favorite travel destinations.

To get in touch, visit her Matador profile.

If you aren’t yet a member of the Matador community, don’t fret. Membership is free and easy; sign up here.

For some extra-curricular reading of MichaLola’s work, check out her personal blog, Looking for Lola.

Photo above: nophun201, Feature photo: clspeace

Haines, Alaska

There’s no American wilderness more spectacular than that of “the last frontier,” and Haines is an ideal gateway. From the town there is relatively easy access to the Davidson Glacier, and super easy access to the paddling / rafting on the Chilkat River and hiking in the Takshanuk Mountains. In winter, the Chilkat Pass has limitless snowsports options.

Ithaca, NY

Western New York State is vast and overlooked. A great starting point to explore this region is the hilly town of Ithaca, overflowing with all the wining, dining, and partying that defines college culture.

“Ithaca is Gorges,” reads the popular t-shirt sported by Cornell students, referencing the area’s abundance of dramatic landscapes. Hiking, biking, fishing, and cross country skiing—yes, in addition to gorge jumping—are all on offer here by the Finger Lakes.

Photo: nancycallahan

Fayetteville, West Virginia

Fayetteville is nicknamed, “Gateway to the New River Gorge.” This tiny town is famous for its annual Bridge Day, where BASE jumpers from around the world jump off the bridge spanning the New River. Fayetteville has a tight community of paddlers who stoke on the nearly year-round access to the New and Gauley Rivers.

Whitefish, Montana

The Northern Rockies are home to true wilderness, and Whitefish is your #1 gateway. Whatever you’re fired up on—mountain biking, fishing, paddling, camping, skiing—the town has “out your backdoor” access to rivers, lakes, Whitefish Mountain Resort, and Glacier National Park.

Photo: .Bala

Asheville, North Carolina

Though the center of a metropolitan area of nearly 400,000, Asheville retains a small-town feel and represents a great launching point for western North Carolina’s wild spaces.

This college town provides a mix of culture (live music, arts festivals, and watering holes) and nature. The French Broad river flows right through the town, and you can also hop right on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is an hour’s drive to the west.

Marathon, Texas

The tiny dot of Marathon stands out on the big, empty map of west Texas. An old railroad and livestock town, it now features arts and crafts galleries, atmospheric diners, and eccentric lodging options.

Wild is a description that applies to the entire region, but the main draw lies an hour down Highway 385 in Big Bend National Park for desert exploration and climbing.

Photo: (Bill and Mavis) – B&M Photography

Orono, ME

A true college town, Orono packs a lot into a small package. Outdoors shops, pizza joints, and pub life collide in the tiny village center, surrounded by parks, forest, and the sprawling UMO campus.

You can head south for the heavily touristed but stunning coastal scenery of Acadia National Park, but for real wilderness, head towards Baxter State Park and Mount Katahdin.

Salida, Colorado

Sitting right between two great sections of the Arkansas River, Salida is a community of rec-heads. It’s a quick drive from Monarch, one of the state’s best under-the-radar ski areas, and when the snow melts it pumps up the Arkansas, giving paddling and rafting options for the whole family.

There are almost limitless camping and hiking options along the entire Arkansas from Salida to Buena Vista. If you’re in the area this June, make sure to check out the FIBArk boating festival.

Moab, Utah

Moab is unique in the world for the spectacular formations in its high desert terrain. Arches and Canyonlands National Parks are at its doorstep. A mountain biking mecca, two-wheelers come here from around the world for the of the area’s trails, ranging from beginner peddles to the super-intense Slickrock Trail.

Photo: ooOJasonOoo

Truckee, CA

For easy access to the year-round outdoors adventures of the Lake Tahoe region, minus the casino culture of nearby towns, Truckee’s where you want to be.

Whether you’re gearing up for some epic fly fishing or a trek through Eldorado National Forest, Truckee has everything you’ll need in a base of operations.

Port Angeles, Washington

The largest town on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula is also your gateway to one of the Pacific Northwest’s best, but least frequently visited wilderness areas: Olympic National Park. Port Angeles is also one of the few places in the world where you can snowboard and surf in the same day.

Port Angeles is an interesting city as well, with wineries, art galleries, and good camping (Elwha River) as well as hostel accommodations.

Photo: anneh632

Rapid City, South Dakota

Perhaps best known as the gateway to Mount Rushmore, Rapid City also sits at the doorstep of some incredible wild terrain. The Black Hills, home of the highest point east of the Rockies, rise just west of town, while the rugged backcountry and bizarre formations of Badlands National Park lie to the east.

Community Connection:

Good news! America’s wilderness is set to get a little wilder, as explained in the recent Pulse post “President Obama Signs Wilderness Bill.”

To learn more about any of the destinations featured above, why not ask a Matador expert?

Photos: author

At 14,265 feet, Quandary is the highest peak in the Tenmile Range. There’s straightforward, all-season access via Highway 9, with the trail head just eight miles south of cushy Breckenridge.

Quandary’s wide, mild East Ridge slopes make for an excellent introduction to hiking above treeline in the summer and backcountry skiing when the snow falls.

Consequently, you’ll never have Quandary Peak to yourself. The weekday I climbed, I set out at a laughable 11:00 AM and passed other hikers—though not frequently, fairly consistently—even on the way down.

But regardless of whether reading this makes you want to book it to Breck or jot a mental note to stay clear, let me assure you the views from the top can be enjoyed by visitors of all levels of expertise.

A word of warning: approaching the summit from directions other than east yields technical slopes. These are prone to avalanches in winter and can be dangerous any time of year. Don’t underestimate.

Community Connection

Planning to hit up Quandary while the snow’s still on the ground? Before you go, brush up on our First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding and 8 Pieces of Gear to Keep You Warm and Safe in the Backcountry.

Photo: *Solar ikon*

Tokyo, Japan

Spring is practically defined by the cherry blossom. Many cities around the globe pride themselves on the beauty of their sakura trees—D.C., Vancouver, and Seoul all hold dedicated festivals—but why not head to the source?

Petals drift down in surreal snowfalls that cover the wide, black paths of Tokyo’s Imperial Palace complex. From here, you can walk along a carpet of softest pink to Yasukuni Shrine, where the combination of spiritual tranquility and seasonal beauty invites visitors to linger longer than they planned.

Of course, the capital is one among hundreds of venues for sakura sightseeing in Japan. The imperial charm of Kyoto’s parks and shrines provide an excellent backdrop for the blossoms, while Nagoya, Kamakura, and Osaka are also popular destinations.

When the flowers appear depends on the latitude, climate, and recent weather of each location. As of now, recommended 2009 viewing times for Tokyo and Kyoto run from the end of March through the first week in April.

Schedules for these and other regions can be found here.

Photo: Zest-pk

Lisse, Holland

The Dutch tulip is another spring specimen of world-class renown.

Amsterdam’s floating flower market of Bloemenmarkt is good for a splash of fragrance and color in any season, and flower history buffs can tour the city’s tulip museum.

But it’s Lisse, a town 40 kilometers southwest of Amsterdam and well-served by public transport, that’s home to the world’s largest flower garden, the Keukenhof.

Open from March 19 to May 21, 2009, the vast grounds of the Keukenhof feature over 7 million flower bulbs, many of them tulips. In addition, boat tours, workshops, and bicycle rentals are available, ensuring an overdose of springtime fun.

The Lake District, England

Photo: ginnerobot

A cradle of bucolic scenery year round, England’s Lake District reveals something special each spring, when daffodils erupt across the hills and dales.

This is where Wordsworth “wandered lonely as a cloud.” If you’re seeking poetic inspiration, or just a pleasant stroll through the golden daffodils, fit Lake District National Park into your itinerary.

The town of Ambleside hosts its Daffodil and Spring Flower Show this March 28 and 29, but the blooms will be going off throughout April as well.

Chappell Hill, TX, USA

Photo: robholland

There’s a species of lupine so beloved by Texans that they named it their state flower back in 1901. Each spring, the bluebonnet carpets the plains and Hill Country of eastern and central Texas.

These blossoms are at their peak in April, and the Chappell Hill Bluebonnet Festival is held mid-month accordingly. Ask the locals and they’ll be happy to tell you this is the only “official” bluebonnet festival in Texas.

Yet, it’s just as easy to spot blue-hued meadows along state highways, thanks to a wildflower seeding project prompted by former First Lady, Lady Bird Johnson.

If the flowers on their own aren’t enough for you, consider an outing along the Texas Bluebonnet Wine Trail. This network of East Texas roads traverses prime bluebonnet country while connecting you to more than half a dozen local wineries.

Photo: g-hat

Perth, Australia

Travel budgets are tight these days. If you simply can’t manage a trip to watch the buds bloom this spring, don’t despair. Keep in mind—one hemisphere’s summer is another’s winter.

When September rolls around, head to Western Australia for a second-chance spring.

Perth is the place to be, where the annual Kings Park Festival lasts all month. Live music, art installations, and cultural performances add to the attraction of the flowers blooming throughout the park and botanical gardens.

For the flower obsessed (there’s one in every group), the tourism board of Western Australia suggests a three-day itinerary heading north out of Perth. Thousands of species bloom in this region of the country, making it the ideal destination for enjoying spring Down Under.

Community Connection

Do you suffer a touch of flora-mania? What are your favorite places to take in spring blooms? Let us know in the comments.

Sakura got a mention in our 8 Cities That Burn Through Your Money, while Amsterdam’s Bloemenmarkt landed among the Top 10 Free Things to Do in Europe. Check out what else made these lists!

Photo: avlxyz

The close, dark store smells of garlic, chilies, maybe a little ginger. Racks overflow with instant noodle cups and bags of shrimp chips. In my hands a six-pack of kimchi ramen and a tray of freshly made tteok (Korean glutinous rice cakes).

I walk up to the counter, fumble in my pocket, and pluck out a wad of worn peso bills, still mesmerized by my discovery of this genuine, expansive Korean community lodged in the center of Mexico City’s tourist district—the Zona Rosa.

Destinations

Community Connection to Mexico

Koreans first came to Mexico in the early 1900s, fleeing the Japanese occupation of their homeland. Many found tough, low-paying work on farms in the country’s northern regions, where pockets of Mexicanized Korean communities still exist.

But Mexico City’s Koreans are more recently arrived, the result of South Korea’s economic boom of the ‘60s and ‘70s. In the D.F., traditions intertwine.

You’re almost as likely to find your mouth watering at the scent of bulgogi as tacos al pastor in the Zona Rosa.

While no immediately observable synthesis has taken place (you can’t get kimchi tacos here like those served up by Los Angeles’ Kogi truck), strolling down Calle Florencia between Reforma and Chapultepec makes for a culturally disorienting experience.

Community Connection

For more on Mexico City’s Korean community, check out the Matador Travel blog “Los Coreanos.” Curious what else you don’t know about the largest metropolis in the world? Give our “Green Guide to Mexico City” a read.

Feature photo: mrmanc, Photo above: Sister72

Auckland, New Zealand

Be among the first in the world to ring in the day of St. Patrick while attending Auckland’s 15th annual celebration. With nearly a quarter of city residents professing Irish heritage, they’ve proclaimed themselves the “Ireland of the South Pacific.”

The parade may have been marched this past Saturday, but the Celtic spirit lasts through the 17th, with live music, food, fortune tellers, and maybe even a hurling match or two. Visit the official website for the complete schedule.

Nagoya, Japan

Photo: tata aka T

Although Japan’s biggest St. Paddy’s Day bash was held in Tokyo over the weekend, the Pacific coast city of Nagoya will serve up its Gaelic goodness March 21st.

The parade, following a loop that begins and ends in front of the Osu Kannon Buddhist temple, promises to be a blast…especially if the pure-bred Irish Setters are flown in as promised.

Montreal, Canada

That’s right, Quebec’s largest metropolis isn’t all Molson and poutine. In fact, the Irish feast day has been celebrated here for 250 years.

Montreal’s parade, which begins at noon on the 22nd and loops through downtown, features a massive replica of Patrick himself…just in case all the green didn’t clue you in to what day it was. There’s even an awards banquet held the following weekend for parade participants.

Photo: Zanastardust

Montserrat

With a population of Irish and African heritage, the British territory of Montserrat is the only place other than Ireland that gives March 17th national holiday status.

An entire week’s worth of festivities are held on the “Emerald Isle of the Caribbean,” including a kite festival, concerts, dances, and traditional games. And yes, the Guinness will be flowing.

Need more ideas? Did you know this holiday has its own website? Check it out here for the full scoop on parades, parties, and events taking place all over the world.

Community Connection

If you know of other St. Paddy’s shindigs going off in bizarre locales, or if you attend one of those mentioned above, let us know in the comments!

For the more serious side of Irish current events, read Eva Holland’s recent Pulse post, “Protests for Peace in Northern Ireland.”

Each of the following cities sees sunshine for no less than 70% of annual daylight hours. But more than that, they provide great opportunities to get out and enjoy it!

Photo by Thomas & Dianne Jones.

Yuma, AZ: 90%

Not only does Yuma receive the most sunshine of any U.S. city, but it’s the Guinness Book of World Records’ pick for the sunniest place on Earth!

The landscape is decidedly desert, but thanks to the Colorado and Gila Rivers, water sports offer a perfect way to beat the heat. Boat rentals are available at some of the nearby lakes, and the Parks and Recreation Office leads canoe and kayak excursions.

Las Vegas, NV: 85%

There’s more to Las Vegas than craps tables and the glittering lights of the strip. The city experiences abundant sunshine and is positioned within the stunning geography of southern Nevada.

Hikers, mountain bikers, and rock climbers head to Red Rock Canyon. Lake Mead is also a short drive away, allowing bathers to stay cool while soaking up the sun, then wrap it up with a tour of the monumental Hoover Dam.

Photo by Flickr Creative Commons.

El Paso, TX: 84%

The past, present, and future of El Paso is inextricably tied to its sister metropolis across the river: Ciudad Juárez. Several festivals throughout the year pay homage to the area’s Hispanic heritage and are a great excuse to get out under sunny skies.

The well-attended Fiesta de las Flores takes place every Labor Day weekend, while the local celebration of Día de los Muertos (late October – early November) emphasizes the cultural connections between El Paso and Juárez. For fans of Mexican cuisine, La Que Buena Gordita Festival couldn’t sound more delicious.

Albuquerque, NM: 76%

Residents of New Mexico’s largest city are renowned for taking advantage of the outdoors. Nestled between the Rio Grande and the Sandia Mountains, Albuquerque offers up every activity imaginable, from golf to hang gliding.

In addition, the city relies on its fair skies to host the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta every October. The nine-day hot air extravaganza is the world’s largest and features around 700 balloons, adding even more color to Southwestern vistas.

Photo by Michelle.

Key West, FL: 76%

Of course, the sun doesn’t only shine in the West. Famous as the haunt of Hemingway and the southernmost city in the continental U.S., Key West mixes year-round mild temperatures with its solar rays.

The ocean dominates outdoor leisure time, whether it’s testing the sand’s softness on one of several beaches or voyaging offshore on a deep-sea fishing excursion. Alternatively, the historic Old Town lends itself perfectly to two-wheeled exploration. Island Bicycles and Eaton Bikes are among the many shops offering rentals.

Lake Charles, LA: 72%

Southwestern Louisiana is often most closely associated with the petrochemical industry, but it’s also home to another of America’s sunniest cities. Lake Charles is a center of Cajun culture, and its dozens of annual fiestas have earned it the nickname, “The Festival Capital of Louisiana.”

Though playing second fiddle to the main event farther east, Lake Charles’ Mardi Gras still draws crowds. Parades, live music, and a gumbo cook-off make for plenty of fun in the sun (with a more family-friendly atmosphere than New Orleans’ celebration). Later in the year, the huge Contraband Days Festival highlights the city’s colorful history.

Photo by Katie Dureault.

Grand Junction, CO: 71%

Another outdoors mecca, Grand Junction is the largest city on Colorado’s Western Slope. Its proximity to the Colorado National Monument (and, farther afield, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park) introduces countless opportunities for whitewater rafting, camping, hiking, biking, and more.

Even winters see a lot of sun, making time spent in the snow that much more enjoyable. Powderhorn Resort, on Grand Mesa, is less than an hour away, while Telluride and Aspen are a three- and four-hour drive, respectively.

Photo by Ron Layters.

Honolulu, HI: 71%

Last but certainly not least, Hawaii’s capital has been a beacon for sun-seekers for centuries. Honolulu’s beach-related activities need no elaboration. Its hiking, both along the coast in places like Diamond Head Crater, and in the tropical mountains of interior Oahu, are less well-known but equally worthy of attention.

And for runners of all stripes, Honolulu hosts the sixth-largest marathon in the world. Around 30,000 athletes hit the streets each year to test their stamina under the Hawaiian sun.

What’s your favorite sunny city, whether in the U.S. or abroad? Share your top picks below!

Practicalities

While the following parks are on opposite corners of the island, driving from one to the other doesn’t take more than a few hours. Renting a car is the way to go due to a distinct lack of public transportation.

Budget accommodation is also difficult to come by. However, in the spirit of immersing yourself in Puerto Rico’s natural wonders, consider pitching a tent. Public campgrounds are widespread, affordable, and well cared for. There are also private campgrounds, although some are open only to RVs.

The Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambientales (Department of Natural Resources and Environment) is in charge of most campgrounds located within parks and reserves. These are cheap, but may require advance reservations.

To camp on the beach, go through Compañia de Parques Nacionales (National Parks Company), which runs several balnearios (seaside camping and recreation complexes) around the island.

Both websites above are in Spanish only. For camping information in English, check out these resources:

You might see safety warnings associated with some campgrounds, but only those closest to San Juan. That said, camping outside of designated areas is not recommended, and wherever you are, it’s never wise to leave valuables in your tent.

If money is less of an issue, numerous hotels and resorts cater to mid-range and luxury budgets. For eco-friendly options, as well as general tips for green travel on the island, check out Julie Schwietert’s Green Guide to Puerto Rico.

With temperature and precipitation relatively constant, the main climate factor to watch for when planning a trip is hurricane season. September and October are the riskiest months to visit, but that being said, the last big hurricane to affect Puerto Rico was in 1998. In addition, your camping options may be more limited outside of the summer months.

El Yunque

While only an hour from downtown San Juan and firmly on the tourist track, the tropical rainforest of El Yunque, also known as the Caribbean National Forest, is a must-see.

El Yunque contains four distinct forest zones, defined by elevation, each with its own unique mix of flora and fauna.

Most visitors come on package tours, which don’t leave them nearly enough time to explore the area. On your own, however, it’s easy to lose the crowds.

Make sure to take advantage of El Portal Visitors Center on your way into the park. The nominal admission fee gives you access to a plethora of informational displays as well as short paths through the surrounding forest.

The Palo Colorado Visitors Center, near the end of Highway 191, is where most of the main hiking routes begin.

Trails range from easy to intense and a hike will allow you to take in a variety of sights, including waterfalls, swimming holes, lookout towers, and mountain peaks. The Trailwinds and El Toro trails are long enough to stretch into an overnight trek.

Camping in El Yunque is absolutely free, but you’ll need to pick up a permit beforehand at the Catalina Work Center (also on Highway 191). There are no designated sites or facilities beyond the visitor centers, so make sure to pack as much food and water as you’ll need, and be prepared for rain.

Other accommodations, including two balnearios, stretch north of the park from Río Grande to Fajardo. Naguabo, to the south, has a few as well.

Bosque Estatal de Guánica

The most impressive feature of the Guánica Biosphere Reserve is its utterly divergent landscape. Only 35 inches of rain fall on this southwestern strip of coast each year. With your socks still damp from a trek through El Yunque, you might feel as if you’ve been transported to a different continent.

The small ranger station just beyond the park entrance can set you up with a map of the reserve’s short hiking trails. None are too strenuous, but remember to pack plenty of water and sunscreen; the hot sun and arid atmosphere will suck the moisture right out of you.

Lookouts and coastal views are easily accessed from the trails. In addition, keep your eyes peeled for the many rare bird species that frequent this ecosystem. And wherever you hike, you won’t be able to miss the sight (or the name!) of the Spanish dildo cactus.

Along the shore just south of the forest runs scenic Highway 333, passing several pleasant beaches. Here, you’ll also find the posh Copamarina Beach Resort, and passage can be arranged to the two islands just offshore. A couple guesthouses are situated in the nearby town of Guánica.

Bosque Estatal de Guajataca

From rainforest to dry forest to something in between. The tall deciduous trees of the Guajataca Forest Reserve will look more familiar to most North Americans.

What catches the eye here often lies beneath the ground. The area is rich in karst formations, porous limestone that over the millennia has been eroded to form rough cliffs, deep sinkholes, and subterranean passageways.

Trail #1 will lead you to a most impressive example of the phenomenon: la Cueva del Viento. After passing through a hole in the hillside, a damp wooden staircase descends into this expansive and pitch-black cave.

Totally unsupervised, you are free to explore the maze of stalagmites, columns, and tunnels at your own pace. Don’t forget your flashlight!

As there are numerous trails weaving through the forest, it’s best to hike with a map. Unfortunately, at the time of this author’s visit, the ranger station on Highway 446 was closed for renovations. It might be best to stop for information at a DRNA office in San Juan or Aguadilla. The DRNA also runs a campground in the park.

The forest sees few visitors, despite its close proximity to other attractions. Good surfing beaches lie to the northwest; to the southeast sits Lago Guajataca, a recreational lake with several camping and guesthouse options; just beyond that, you’ll find the third-largest cave system in the world at Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy; and who could forget Observatorio de Arecibo, home to the world’s largest radio telescope?

And many more

Don’t stop with these three offerings. The island is packed with parks and reserves, virtually undiscovered by tourists and awaiting explorers in search of a different Puerto Rico. At approximately 100 x 39 miles, this island is highly explorable. And the fact that US citizens don’t need a passport to visit is all the more reason to make plans for a trip to America’s “isle of enchantment.”

Community Connection

Matador writer and editor Julie Schwietert Collazo lived in Puerto Rico for almost three years. Feel free to contact her for trip advice.

Matador member Caribe is from San Juan, and Liesbet is currently exploring Puerto Rico’s coast by boat. Not a Matador member yet? Sign up today!

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Feature photo by shoothead. Photo above by GeneC55.

Maine’s biggest city may not have made it onto any official “green tourism” maps just yet. But for those seeking to leave no trace, Portland has plenty to offer. From the metropolitan air of Congress Street, to the clean-cut red brick of downtown and the Old Port’s quaint cobblestone…it can all be yours, o green traveler!

Practicalities

For most, a trip to Portland translates to hours on a turnpike clogged with New Englanders headed to “Vacationland” for the weekend. But it doesn’t have to be that way.

Consider the Amtrak Downeaster, connecting Boston to Portland’s Transportation Center. Hail from elsewhere? Why not put together a longer train trip? Check out this page for all the Amtrak travel tips you’ll need.

The CAT pulls into the Portland International Ferry Terminal direct from Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. It has a regular summertime schedule and is a great option if you’re coming from the Maritimes.

And, of course, Portland’s tiny International Jetport is always a last resort.

Hit the Streets!

Once you’ve arrived, the immediate area of interest is compact enough that you won’t need a car for any of it. Put your legs to work and rent a bike at Cycle Mania. Although bicycle lanes are sparse, you shouldn’t have any trouble with the city’s light traffic.

Portland’s METRO bus system can also get you where you need to go. A pass good for 10 rides goes for $11. All buses are equipped with front racks that hold up to two bicycles.

But on a breezy summer’s day, nothing beats your feet for a tour of the town.

The Green (and Blue) Outdoors

As temperatures rise, Portland residents flock outdoors to burn off all the calories accumulated during hibernation. Why not join them?

In the middle of town, tall trees, grassy knolls, sports facilities, and an attractive pond comprise Deering Oaks Park, the perfect place to while away an afternoon. For more of a workout, tackle the trails in the Fore River Sanctuary to the northwest. Though surrounded by sprawl, it’s possible to get lost from the sights and sounds of the modern world here.

Photo above by brentdanley.

A comprehensive listing of Greater Portland’s parks and paths can be found at the website of Portland Trails. If the online maps are too difficult to read, it’s only $4.95 to purchase the real thing.

Of course, the city’s coastal location is the main attraction for summertime visitors, and there are many ways to enjoy the ocean. Yes, swimming is one of them, despite the fact that average water temperatures top out at 62º. Heck, people even surf!

Whether you choose to enter the water or not, sand is essential. Willard Beach in South Portland is the closest, though you’ll probably want to journey a bit farther south to Crescent Beach State Park. Conditions here are nice, but expect crowds, especially on weekends.

Another way to take to the waves is by sea kayak. Headquartered on Peaks Island in Casco Bay, the Maine Island Sea Kayak Company offers tours to destinations near and far, as well as courses from beginner to advanced. H2Outfitters and Maine Kayak run trips starting farther up the coast, so you’ll need a car to get there.

The ferries of Casco Bay Lines make Peaks Island easily accessible from the Old Port. In addition to kayaking, the island has a great perimeter bicycle route, a couple beaches, a handful of restaurants, and a laidback atmosphere.

Arts & Culture

With nearly 400 years of history behind them, Portland’s historic districts deserve a look. Guided walking tours are your perfect low-impact choice and can be arranged at the Convention & Visitors Bureau, the Portland Museum of Art, and the Portland Observatory. Check here for self-guided itineraries.

For something a little more interactive, sign onto a sailing tour. With Maine Sailing Adventures, you’ll learn about local maritime history and witness the beauty of Casco Bay aboard an engineless, 19th-century windjammer replica. Lucky Catch Cruises, though not exactly green, gives you the chance to experience the life of a lobster fisherman.

But there’s more to Portland culture than the salty sea. Its aforementioned art museum is surprisingly chic for a city of its size, and admission is free on Friday evenings from 5 to 9. See the Portland Arts District webpage for a complete listing of museums and galleries. Each month during the First Friday Art Walk, downtown blossoms with exhibits to suit all tastes.

And don’t forget to partake of the obligatory Old Port shopping spree. When you tire of Maine knickknacks and bohemian curios, stop by Fiachre, a bright gardening shop on Fore Street, or Sea Bags, where recycled sails are crafted into attractive handbags. You’ll find this store/workshop on Custom House Wharf, off Commercial Street.

Eat (and Drink) Green

Portland’s surprisingly diverse population is reflected in its eateries. Vietnamese, Dominican, Polish, and Eritrean are among the more unusual offerings.

The aptly named Green Elephant serves up an array of wonderful Asian-inspired entrees, many of them vegan. Pepperclub is another good choice for diners seeking creative vegetarian fare.

Photo above by lumierefl.

If local produce turns you on, make sure to hit up a farmers’ market. There’s one on Wednesdays from 7 AM -2 PM in Monument Square, while Deering Oaks Park hosts another on Saturday mornings. Both run from May through October.

Like most New England cities, Portland has its share of hometown breweries, so drinking local isn’t a problem. A rarer find, though, is Maine Distilleries, which turns Maine potatoes into the award-winning Cold River Vodka. Seek out this non-traditional attraction 15 miles to the north on Route 1.

Stay

Your greenest accommodation option lies south of Portland proper—Cape Elizabeth’s luxurious Inn by the Sea. Maine’s first carbon-neutral resort uses biofuels to heat its buildings and solar to warm its pool.

For a better location (and a lower price tag), check out B&B-style outfits such as the West End Inn and the Wild Iris Inn; the latter appears to be planning some green initiatives.

If you stay long enough to cycle through your suitcase, take your dirties to the good folks at Washboard Eco-Laundry. This environmentally conscious laundromat features energy-efficient machines, solar-heated water, and Earth-friendly services like wet cleaning. Keep clean while you go green!

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Somewhere between the thick, smoggy excitement of Bangkok and the extravagant white-sand brilliance of the Andaman Coast hide the remnants of one of the world’s oldest rainforests.

Since 1980, Khao Sok National Park has guarded 739 square kilometers of this unique environment, doggedly proving that Southern Thailand is more than beach bungalows and full moon parties.

History and Layout

Nestled within a mountainous region in the southwest of Surat Thani province, Khao Sok’s jungle ecosystem formed as early as 160 million (yes, million!) years ago.

Combining characteristics of both rainforests and tropical evergreen forests, this truly ancient landscape overflows with misty limestone cliffs, waterfalls, and the cries of rare animals.

Khao Sok connects with a handful of other parks and wildlife reserves to total 3,000 square kilometers of protected wilderness.

Interestingly, it was communist insurgents who helped ensure this preservation.

In the 1970s, they set up camp amid the dense jungle and imposing karts of Khao Sok, and in the process of fighting off the Thai Army they also kept out loggers and miners eager to make off with the area’s natural resources.

Conservation unfortunately gave way to modern necessity in 1982 with the construction of the Ratchaprapha Dam. The resultant Chao Lan Reservoir, spanning 165 square kilometers to the north of the park, is now a huge tourism draw, but much of the native wildlife was less than thrilled about it.

Attempts were made to capture and relocate animals in the area, without much success; 52 of the river’s fish species were lost.

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Khao Sok lies off Highway 401, 120 km west of the town of Surat Thani and just 60 km from Takua Pa on the northern Andaman Coast.

From the highway (km 109), a short road winds down to the actual park entrance where admission fees are collected.

It’s along this stretch that you’ll find most of the guesthouses, with the thickest cluster surrounding the bridge over the Sok River. Additional options are sprinkled here and there down other nearby highway turnoffs.

Tigers and bears and…flowers? Oh my!

Left undisturbed by natural and, to some extent, human forces for millions of years, Khao Sok is home to an incredible diversity of plant and animal species.

Elephants, tigers, barking deer, sun bears, and cobras are just a few. Pythons as thick as your thigh have been spotted in the deep jungle.

While you’re certain to see some spectacular wildlife during your stay, keep in mind that most animals stay well away from established trails, and many are nocturnal. Birders will likely have better luck.

But Khao Sok’s most famous resident is much less elusive. Flowers of the genus Rafflesia are the largest in the world and are found in only a scattering of locations around Southeast Asia.

Perched atop some of the park’s high ridges are groupings of one Rafflesia species. They bloom from November to March, giving off an odor of rotting meat to attract flies for pollination. One week after they open, they die.

These flowers are extremely rare and sensitive to disturbance. Remember to keep your distance, no matter how badly you want to get that perfect macro shot.

Rafflesia, Photo by Hal Amen

Exploration

Hiking, whether to see the flowers or simply to take in the diverse sights of the jungle, is a rewarding experience in Khao Sok. The mountainous terrain offers routes of varying lengths and difficulties.

If you prefer to do your trekking on the back of an elephant, that can also be arranged.

The porous limestone underlying the forest gives shape to some impressive caves. Depending on water levels, it’s possible to either walk or swim through some of them.

However, this can be dangerous: in October of 2007, six tourists and their two guides died in a cave during a flash flood. Make sure you have proper gear and that your guides know their stuff.

River tours are another popular activity. Guided kayak, canoe, and raft trips aren’t terribly exhilarating, but you’re sure to spy plenty of mangrove snakes and baby pythons hanging in the branches canopied above you. There’s always a place to take a refreshing dip, as well.

For a true lounging experience, rent a tube and let the river current do its thing. Just don’t try this when the water is low, or you’ll wind up stumbling through ankle-deep pools on foot.

Khao Sok Tree House Resort, Photo by Hal Amen

Various boating excursions are available on the reservoir, where the karst cliffs spike out of the water like knife blades and your chances of seeing wildlife are slightly higher.

The park operates three clusters of floating guesthouses on remote sections of the lake, accessible by motorboat.

Most of these activities require a guide. This goes for hiking as well, as many of the longer trails are unmarked and getting lost would be very bad news indeed.

Numerous operators offer tours, ranging from afternoon outings to multi-day, all-inclusive packages that provide transport from Phuket, Krabi, etc. and allow you to partake of everything listed above.

There are two alternatives when arranging a tour. Your first is to book through one of the big-name companies, either online or at a tourist center on the west coast. Some popular names include Limestone Lake Rainforest Tours, Siam Inter Tour, and, with a focus on canoe/kayak tours, PaddleAsia and Sea Canoe Thailand.

Otherwise, simply book through your guesthouse once you get to the park. Art’s Riverview Lodge and Our Jungle House are used by tour groups and therefore see lot of traffic, but they get mixed reviews.

Better for the independent traveler are any of the places along the road just before the main park entrance, such as Khao Sok Tree House Resort. Each should have similar tour opportunities on tap, as well as an onsite restaurant. Even if yours does meals, Thai Herb Restaurant by the river bridge deserves a visit.

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Climate

Khao Sok is the wettest place in the whole country, its berth in the Phuket Mountains square in the sights of both the Indian and Pacific monsoons.

Your best bet for sunny skies is between December and April, though there will still be sporadic showers most days.

Expect your fair share of run-ins with six- and eight-legged creatures. Just remember to keep it in perspective: those huge spiders chilling in your guesthouse bathroom and that leach clamped onto your ankle (don’t freak out, they’re harmless!) are simply testaments to the rainforest’s explosion of life.

Arriving and Departing

Khao Sok is the perfect stopover between Bangkok and the Andaman Coast, and buses and minivans travel direct to the park from both Surat Thani and Phuket.

Public buses connect these two locales as well, and you can arrange for the driver to drop you at the turnoff for the park on Highway 401. This will give you more freedom to survey and choose from the many guesthouses.

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

Voralak is a writer based in Bangkok who wrote about the islands of Trang in southern Thailand in an earlier guide for Matador Trips. Dane, another Bangkok based writer, recently wrote a great article about the luxury of time for Brave New Traveler.

Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Photo by Hal Amen

Zipping down from Luang Prabang?

Cruising up from Phnom Penh? Shooting over from BKK? Make sure to cool your jets for a few days in the southern Lao town of Champasak.

Orientation

Champasak lies 25 miles downstream from the southern hub of Pakse. It’s on the shore opposite the highway, accessible by boat from the Ban Muang docks.

Nearly the entire town is laid out along a single road that parallels the Mekong River. In the center, a traffic circle (with no traffic to speak of) rings a decaying stone fountain that hints of this town’s distinctive past.

Faded Grandeur

photo by Hal Amen

In Champasak you’ll find the same “go with the river’s flow” mentality celebrated by backpackers further north at Muang Ngoi Neua and further south on the Four Thousand Islands. But there’s more to Champasak than banana milkshakes and hammock naps.

Before the French consolidated the region and added that pesky “s” to the name, there were three separate Lao kingdoms. One of them just so happened to be the Kingdom of Champasak, seated in the town that still bears its name.

It may be hard to believe this lazy village once hosted royalty. But while it lacks anything approximating Pakse’s Champasak Palace Hotel, there are faded reminders of greatness to explore.

Some of Champasak’s grandeur remains in the colonial buildings, stained by the weight of time and humidity, that line the main road. Enjoy the atmosphere conjured by these shadows from the past as you relish a slow meal of laap, sticky rice, and Beer Lao at one of the many delightfully mellow riverside restaurants.

The Main Attraction

Champasak boasts something else unique in southern Laos: a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins of Wat Phu Champasak straddle the mountains and the Mekong plain 7 miles south and west of town on the main road.

If you’re planning a visit to Angkor Wat later in your trip, Wat Phu is the perfect prelude for what you’ll see there. Travelers who have already been to Angkor will appreciate the elevated location of these ruins. Wat Phu affords impressive views, something you don’t often find at Angkor.

This temple complex served as the spiritual nexus of an ancient culture as early as 2,000 years ago.

Centuries later, Champasak became part of the vast Khmer empire, and you’re sure to note the similarities between the sculptures and carvings here and those at Cambodia’s world-renowned site. If you look closely, you can see remnants of the pilgrimage route that once connected the two.

Today, Wat Phu invites you to relive the experience of a devotee as you ascend the stone staircases scented with sweet frangipani blossoms that connect the site’s multiple levels.

Along the way, you’ll pass statues decorated in saffron robes and fresh flowers, perhaps with a group of monks in attendance.

From the top level, it’s possible to look back over the entire complex, further out across the colorful plain, and eventually to the Mekong shimmering in the distance.

Each year, the ruins are overrun with local revelers during the Bun Wat Phu Champasak. Sporting events, Buddhist ceremonies, and live music abound at this popular festival.

If your visit happens to coincide (festival dates are determined by the lunar calendar and usually fall in February), book your Champasak accommodation well in advance. At other times of the year you’re likely to have the place to yourself.

Other Sights and Activities

photo by Hal Amen

While it’s a safe bet any visitors to Champasak have come for Wat Phu, other nearby sights reward travelers who choose to linger. For an active temple, check out Wat Nyutthitham one block west of the main drag.

There’s another wat north of the circle where the ferry docks, and yet another can be found about 5 miles to the south, past where the road curves toward Wat Phu.

More Khmer ruins are on display at Um Muang, downstream a piece on the opposite bank. To get there, hire a boat from Champasak for around $10 round-trip. Floating lazily along the Mekong is half the fun.

The flat dirt roads around Champasak are great to explore on your own. Most guesthouses rent out bicycles, and some have motorbikes.

Follow any path and you’re sure to come upon conical-hatted farmers at work in green fields, laughing Lao children, and maybe a water buffalo cooling off in a mud puddle.

Arriving and Departing

Champasak, located just off well-traveled Highway 13, is a breeze to reach. Buses from points north and south travel this road and will probably drop you at Ban Lak 30, a couple miles east of the Ban Muang docks. You shouldn’t have any trouble arranging local transport to cover this distance.

Unless you specify otherwise, your boatman will ferry you a mile or so north of Champasak’s traffic circle. The standard crossing runs less than 10,000 kip ($1).

Alas, the heyday of boat travel in southern Laos is over, and the slow boat connecting Pakse to the Si Phan Don island of Don Khong seems to have been discontinued. Private boats can still be chartered (expensively) in Pakse for the journey to Champasak if you so desire.

Circle of Asia’s “Vat Phou Cruise” package is a roundtrip between Pakse and the Cambodian border, with onboard accommodation.

From Thailand, use the border crossing east of Ubon Ratchathani. Despite its continuing obscurity, there’s also a crossing with Cambodia at Voen Kham. Embassy employees, guidebooks, and tour operators alike may tell you it’s not possible to purchase a visa upon exit/entry, but this author had no trouble doing so.

Your best bet is to arrange transport through a guesthouse on your way down, or in Stung Treng, Cambodia, if coming the other way. As always, check with passing travelers for the latest updates.

Guesthouses and Restaurants

photo by Hal Amen

Champasak guesthouses offer a variety of accommodations, from the standard $3 fan bungalow to larger, indoor rooms with A/C, private bath, and hot water for up to $15. Try to find one with a nice seating area facing the river, where you can string a hammock and contemplate the Mekong’s swift current.

In addition, most of the guesthouses have attached restaurants. The one associated with A Nou Xa Guesthouse, north of the fountain circle, serves carefully prepared and deliciously authentic Lao cuisine, with an atmosphere that can’t be beat.

Cash and the Net

There are no banks between Pakse and Stung Treng, so remember to conduct any necessary financial business before striking out. U.S. dollars are sometimes accepted, Thai baht less so—it pays to stock up on kip.

A couple houses (one just south of the circle) advertise Internet connections, but this is nothing more than a local’s personal computer. Rates are twice what they are in Pakse.

Fewer services means more time for relaxation. Enjoy it while you can!

Community Connection!

Many Matador members have a soft spot for Laos. Check out Matador contributor Justin Landrum’s guide to Muang Ngoi Neua, maybe the chillest backpacker hideout in all of SE Asia.

TravelFish, an online resource dedicated to SE Asia travel, has an excellent Champasak travel guide.

Nomadic Matt recommends Southern Laos in his excellent list of 8 ways to get off the SE Asian tourist trail. Your faithful editor Tim Patterson fell in love with Lusty Luang Prabang. Although his profile is a little sparse, Robb Cadwell knows more about Laos than just about any Westerner.

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Photo by Hal Amen

There’s no Southeast Asian road more iconic than Vietnam’s National Highway 1. Running the length of the narrow, coastal country, it connects the major cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh. After decades of conflict that threatened to tear them apart, the Vietnamese now see the highway as a symbol of national unity.

Cycling Highway 1 unlocks experiences most travelers miss. You’ll discover rural hamlets far removed from the modern world, and famous guidebook sights will seem all the sweeter when earned through your own pedal power.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

No cycling test required—this adventure is open to people of all abilities.

Supported

photo by Hal Amen

For those seeking a structured, less-demanding trip, many agencies conduct vehicle-supported group rides. These typically involve a mix of cycling and van transport. Some examples include VeloAsia, which offers a couple set tours as well as a customized route option, and the 17-day Saigon to Hanoi expedition run by SpiceRoads.

Be sure to research your tour company thoroughly, paying particular attention to itineraries and testimonials. Prices, distances, and accommodation all vary, and no traveler wants to get locked into a situation that fails to live up to expectations.

On Your Own

Of course, many set their wheels to the tarmac without signing onto a supported tour. Cycling independently gives you complete control over where you go and how fast you travel.

Most visitors fly into Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. Starting off in the big city can be intimidating (and a bit dangerous), so busing it a few dozen miles up the road doesn’t hurt. Alternatively, domestic flights will quickly shuttle you to the middle of the country.

Cycling the entire highway is alluring, but time constraints mean you’ll likely opt for a shorter route. The scenic southern half is more popular, passing many points of interest. Spanning roughly 700 miles, it can be done in two weeks, though stretching it to three is recommended.

It’s also possible to skip segments by hopping a bus or train. A small fee will be levied for the bike, but the cost is negligible when time is of the essence.

Basic Necessities

Services and supplies are plentiful along Highway 1. It’s always advisable to carry lots of water and some spare calories, but even the smallest of villages will have a vendor who can restock you.

Accommodation (tourist accommodation, that is) isn’t as frequent. In the south, there are some 70+ mile stretches between major centers, with longer ones in the north. Once you hit your stride, you shouldn’t have trouble knocking out these distances—just know your limits.

New bypasses and extensions are being added to Highway 1 all the time, which can either save you time or get you lost. Make sure to take along an updated map. Great Journeys sells some, or you can pick one up in Hanoi or Saigon.

Timing

Heat isn’t much of a problem on a bike because you create your own breeze as you move. Instead of temperature, consider the seasonal rains when choosing your dates. Summer can be quite damp, and you’ll need to keep abreast of typhoon warnings in the fall and early winter. Traveling on either end of the high season (November–March) translates to cheaper hotel rates.

Which Bike?

Despite what you may hear about cycling in the developing world, there’s no need for a mountain bike on this ride (unless that’s your preference). The pavement is smooth, and on skinny tires you’ll really fly.

Packing your own tools and spares is a good idea. Bicycles and repair shops are ubiquitous in Vietnam, but mechanics won’t necessarily be equipped to work on your setup, especially if you’re sporting an unusual frame or high-end components.

Traffic

photo by Hal Amen

Cycling a main highway in Vietnam, where traffic rules are taken more as suggestions, might seem a perilous prospect. But remember that many locals get around by bicycle themselves, so the infrastructure is set up to accommodate two-wheeled travelers. Highway 1 provides generous shoulders, making it arguably safer than less-traveled roads that have none.

That said, traffic can be heavy. Keep in mind that the right of way is always yielded to the largest vehicle. Horns also take some getting used to—Vietnamese drivers use them liberally.

Read up!

It never hurts to prepare for any trip, and there are tons of resources out there for this one. For general advice on cycle touring, consider these 8 steps.

The information you’ll be looking for as a cyclist might be hard to find in conventional travel guides, so why not go straight to the source—firsthand accounts? The website crazyguyonabike offers dozens of journals from the road, the best giving detailed route and mileage information.

Though outdated, Lonely Planet’s Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia includes information on the southern half of Highway 1, much of which is still relevant. The same can be said for Mr. Pumpy’s site, worth a read for entertainment value alone even if its details aren’t current.

A good book to take for the road is Catfish and Mandala, written by a Vietnamese-American who returned to his homeland to cycle the highway.

WHAT NOT TO MISS

photo by Hal Amen

A few of the best destinations on or near Highway 1—don’t pass them by.

North

The 1,969 limestone crags punctuating Ha Long Bay are enchanting to say the least. Unfortunately, there may be 1,970 tour operators eagerly waiting to show them to you and take your dong. Get the lowdown from fellow travelers before booking a boat ride through this stunning locale.

Central

The imperial city of Hué retains much of its grandeur, and its sights are easily accessible by bike. Tours of the old DMZ to the north can be arranged here, and the Hai Van Pass to the south is one of the most rewarding sections of Highway 1.

Nearby Hoi An is perhaps Vietnam’s most unique destination. Its history of international commerce lives on in many Chinese shop houses, and the narrow streets, colorful lanterns, and well-preserved architecture make for unmatched ambiance. The Cham ruins of My Son are less than 30 miles away.

South

Sandy beaches run along much of Vietnam’s coast, and touristy Nha Trang is home to a particularly pleasant one. It’s a nice spot to unwind for a few days, though some will find the city’s hyper-development trying. Many water activities are available here and elsewhere—if you fancy riding the waves, check out Surf Vietnam: China Beach and Beyond.

For a break from the balminess of the coastal plain, steer off Highway 1 and head to Dalat. The artistic vibe of this city is as refreshing as its highland climate. You have to earn it though, as both roads into town require substantial climbs.

Community Connection!

Read about a different kind of Vietnam bicycle adventure in joshywashington’s article “On Surviving and cyclos in new Saigon.”

Matador Travelers Rob and travelLiz are among those who like to take to the saddle when they take to the road.

Lift tickets at Vail, Aspen, Breckenridge, and the other top-name resorts are approaching $100. It’s enough to make you wonder whether it’s possible to ski Colorado without taking out a second mortgage.

But fear not. If you’re able to venture south, away from the over-developed I-70 corridor and beyond the glitzy boundaries of the mega-resorts, Colorado’s endless mountains hold some real gems.

Two of the best under-the-radar CO ski areas are Wolf Creek and Monarch Mountain. Neither is terribly large. Nor do they offer faux-alpine condo blocks, five-star restaurant chains, or opera houses. In fact, each has little more than a base lodge, rental shop, and a few eating establishments.

What they do have, though, is what counts most for a killer ski vacation: incredible natural snow, lift lines that are manageable on weekends and holidays and practically nonexistent during the week, and ticket prices you won’t kick yourself for paying.

photo courtesy of Hal Amen

In addition, both Wolf Creek and Monarch rank high on the environmental scorecard of the Ski Area Citizens’ Coalition, which coincidentally places several of the state’s better-known mountains towards the bottom of its low-impact list.

So let’s wrap up. You get dreamy snow, relative seclusion, extra money in your wallet, and a genuine Rocky Mountain experience, minus boutiques selling fur coats and $275 sunglasses.

Wolf Creek

“The Most Snow in Colorado.” Enough said. But not only does Wolf Creek consistently rack up the most inches in the state (450 on average and up to 600), the light, soft quality of its powder is truly something to be experienced. And at $48 a day, it’s a steal to do so.

Another unique aspect of Wolf Creek is its relatively open trails. Whereas runs on other mountains may be hemmed in by thick woods, trees are more sparsely situated at Wolf Creek, giving you the freedom to cut lines across the mountain however you please.

photo courtesy of Hal Amen

In 1999, the Alberta quad lift was added, increasing Wolf Creek’s lift-serviced acres from 600 to 1,600. The new terrain is primarily gladed, with numerous powder chutes and bowls.

Wolf Creek’s location, while prime for snowfall, also keeps the crowds of wealthy Texans and Denver day-trippers away.

Seated just east of the summit of the formidable Wolf Creek Pass, it can be difficult to reach when the snow really starts dropping.

In fact, during the 2007-08 season alone the pass was closed more than a dozen times.

Accommodation in the town of South Fork, also on the eastern side of the pass, provides both the shortest and least intense drive to the mountain.

However, if you’re staying for more than a couple days, you’ll probably want to head over the pass to the livelier population center of Pagosa Springs.

Reasonably priced motels can be found here, and after a long day of cutting through the powder, you can relax in the hot springs in the center of town.

(Note: Just how long Wolf Creek will remain a down-to-earth ski mountain is uncertain. See the Friends of Wolf Creek website to learn about a development proposal being fought both by locals and the ski area management itself.)

Monarch Mountain

Monarch can’t compete with Wolf Creek in the snowfall race, but its high elevation ensures that it gets hit with the good stuff pretty often (averaging 350” annually). What’s more, the unassuming charm of this mid-state mountain is sure to win you over.

Your fellow skiers and riders are as likely to be sporting blue jeans as the latest Spyder gear, while the views from the top of the peak will leave you breathless.

You won’t find as much in the way of technical challenges at Monarch either; nearly every run can be tackled with intermediate skills. However, the opening of the 130-acre Mirkwood Basin in 2005 has added some much-appreciated double-black terrain. A 15-minute hike is required to access this hidden stash, but its chutes, rock cliffs, and tree skiing are worth the effort.

Monarch’s lift tickets come in at $52 a day, and this price drops to $42 if you buy at least one day in advance online. As if this weren’t good enough, even bigger deals have become available in recent years.

This season, Ski Free Colorado has partnered with Philips 66 to offer a buy-one-get-one-free voucher whenever you purchase 10 gallons of gas from a participating station. That’s $26 a lift ticket! The vouchers are valid at Crested Butte, Winter Park, and Copper Mountain as well.

Monarch is also more accommodation-friendly than Wolf Creek. The small city of Salida, brimming with motels, lies 20 miles east of the mountain on Highway 50. Even more conveniently located is the Monarch Mountain Lodge, just 3 miles away. The adjacent village, Garfield, has several vacation homes available for rent.

Practical Info

The closest major airport to Pagosa Springs (Wolf Creek) is in Albuquerque, a 4-hour drive to the south. Alternatively, the tiny airport of Durango is just 60 miles away.

It takes a little over 3 hours to reach Salida (Monarch Mountain) from the Denver International Airport, and about an hour less from Colorado Springs.

Community Connection!

Chris Weiss is a powder hound living in Colorado who has written some sweet blogs about ski areas in Vermont. Chris is fired up on big whiteouts, beautiful rolling singletrack and writing about his experiences .

Snowloon also knows a thing or two about secret Colorado powder stashes.