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	<title>Matador Trips &#187; Marla Seidell</title>
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		<title>Slow Food, Slow Travel: Italy</title>
		<link>http://matadortrips.com/slow-food-slow-travel-italy/</link>
		<comments>http://matadortrips.com/slow-food-slow-travel-italy/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Sep 2008 23:14:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Marla Seidell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cultural Immersion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Destinations]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Guides]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Abruzzo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food tour]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[foodie]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Puglia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sicily]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slow food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slow travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[slowfood]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matadortrips.com/?p=92</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Traveling to the country that invented slow food? You need plenty of time to try everything. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080902-marla01.jpg" />
<p>Feature photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ruthbruin2002/">Ruth L</a>. Photo above by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilumb/">IanL</a>.</p>
<div class="subtitle">Traveling to the country that invented slow food? You need plenty of time to try everything. </div>
<p><strong>Halfway from Florence to Arezzo, the train came to an unexpected halt.</strong> It was late August and steamy outside, and the train wasn’t air-conditioned. We sat there for at least half an hour, but no one uttered a word of complaint.</p>
<p>Instead, folks took the opportunity to eat lunch.  Passengers chatted, mostly about the food. The unexpected setback turned into a pleasant afternoon reprieve. Here was Italy in a nutshell: enjoying the moment and not worrying about the destination. And of course, always, <em>Mangia!</em></p>
<p>The best way to get the real deal Italy is to do it up slow and local. By planting yourself in a location for at least one week (instead of trying to “do” Italy in 10 days), you’ll experience more culture and<em> joie de vivre </em>than by running from one monument (or city) to the next.</p>
<p>Follow these 5 tips on traveling and eating slow all over Italy and you’ll do it up Italian style: nice and easy, piano, piano, slowly: </p>
<h5>1. Understand Italy’s Diverse Regions</h5>
<p>Keep in mind that the boot has <a href="http://www.travelvantage.com/fset3.htm?ita_regions.html">20 regions</a>, each with its own indigenous culture, food traditions and climate. Each region is like a mini-country, with much to explore. </p>
<p>That’s why it’s imperative to pick an area and stay planted for at least a week. Visit the same café every day and chat up your neighbors.  Before you know it you’ll feel like a native.</p>
<p><strong>Tuscany</strong></p>
<p>Birthplace of the Renaissance and home to countless influential personalities like Dante and Machiavelli, this region&#8217;s inhabitants are perhaps the most food-centric in the country. Whether you stay in Florence or in a medieval town like Lucca, rest assured everyone will take a healthy interest in what you are cooking and eating.</p>
<div class="pullquote">Whether you stay in Florence or in a medieval town like Lucca, rest assured everyone will take a healthy interest in what you are cooking and eating.</div>
<p>The food here is hearty and simple: from<em> ribollita</em> (soup made with vegetables, beans, and chunks of bread) to beefsteak and <em>panzanella </em>(salad made with bread).</p>
<p><strong>Lazio</strong> </p>
<p>Steeped in history that goes back thousands of years, this region is home to ruins like Tivoli and Ostia Antica. Capital city Rome is home to endless pleasures, in terms of art and a robust culinary tradition. </p>
<p>When in Rome, do it like the Romans: eat delicacies like <em>carciofi alla guida</em> (twice fried artichokes), <em>rigatoni con la pajata</em> (calf intestines) or <em>bucatini all’amatriciana </em>(spicy tomato and pancetta sauce).</p>
<p><strong>Veneto</strong></p>
<p>Highlights of this northern region include the 15 mile-long open-air museum of the Brenta Canal, Verona (of &#8220;Romeo and Juliet&#8221; fame), and Venice, at one time the crossroads between Europe and the Orient.</p>
<p>With ingredients such as pomegranates, pine nuts, and raisins, the exotic flavor remains in dishes such as seafood risotto. Beans and polenta are commonplace, as is <em>minestra di pasta e fagioli</em> (soup with pasta and beans).</p>
<p><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080902-marla03.jpg" />
<p>Photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mumbleyjoe/">MumbleyJoe</a>.</p>
<h5>2. Stay In a Vacation Rental</h5>
<p>To truly experience Italy, you need more than a few days at a hotel or hostel. Forget the must-sees and long day trips. You’ll experience more culture by staying in one region, exploring your environs in concentric circles and settling in a home like a local.</p>
<p><strong>Villas</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/listings/favorites.htm">Villas</a> are like hostels, only a hell of a lot more fancy. Piedmont’s <a href="http://www.bonvicino.com/">Villa San Lorenzo Di Bovicino</a> includes walks through winding vineyards, hikes in the Alps, and visits to Liguria (think fresh pesto) and Turin (largest Egyptian museum outside Cairo; chocolate).</p>
<p><strong>City apartments</strong> </p>
<p>These are ideal for singles or couples looking to get a taste of the La Dolce Vita. Stay at a <a href="http://home-in-rome.com">flat</a> in Rome built on the ruins of Pompey’s Theater – Rome’s first theater, located on via dei Chiavari, near Campo dei Fiori. Rates vary.</p>
<p><strong>Local farms</strong></p>
<p>For inexpensive accommodations, as well as the chance to see the Italy outside of art and museums – stay at <a href="http://www.villagrassina.it">Villa Grassina</a>, 15 miles outside Florence, or at <a href="http://fontedipapa.com">Fonte di Papa</a> outside Rome.</p>
<p>Both of these agricultural stays will give you access to the outdoors and relaxation, yet you’re close enough to frequent the big cities for entertainment.  You might also consider <a href="http://matador.org/a-first-timers-gudie-to-wwoof-ing/">Wwoofing</a>.</p>
<p><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080902-marla05.jpg" />
<p>Photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/agnesefuji/">Agni dalle Bande Nere</a>.</p>
<h5>3. Do it like a Locavore.</h5>
<p>It’s no coincidence that the Slow Food movement originated in Italy. What other country is so devoted to the art of eating? </p>
<p>To help support local economy and agriculture, buy fresh fare at local open-air markets. </p>
<p>And as noted by <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2008/feb/23/travelfoodanddrink.italy">Kevin Gould</a>, when it comes time to eat out, the best way to go local in Rome is to look for simple tavernas where you’ll most likely find local specialties and a relaxing atmosphere:</p>
<p><strong>Rome:</strong> Dino’s Express, Via Tacito, 80</p>
<p><strong>Perugia:</strong> Taverna del Lupo, Via Ansidei, 21</p>
<p><strong>Florence:</strong> Taverna del Bronzino, Villa del Ruote 27r</p>
<h5>4. Take the Train</h5>
<p>Although it has occasional hiccups (like breaking down unexpectedly), taking the <a href="http://www.trenitalia.it/en/index.html">train </a>across Italy is an experience worth writing home about. Traveling from point-to-point in Italy is inexpensive, and you can purchase a <a href="http://www.raileurope.com/us/rail/passes/italy_index.htm">rail pass</a> for longer trips such as Rome to Palermo. </p>
<p>This trip is long (10-13 hours), but worth the adventure. Once at the port of Villa San Giovani, the train cars are rolled onto barges for crossing of the Strait of Messina, which lasts about an hour. Then they are rolled back onto the tracks in eastern Sicily for the rest of the journey to Palermo. A one-way ticket costs about 73 euros.</p>
<p><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080902-marla04.jpg" />
<p>Photo by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/hyougushi/">Hyougushi</a>.</p>
<h5>5. Explore Backwoods Destinations</h5>
<p>Don’t forget the less traveled but all the more interesting regions of Italy. You might see fewer museums here, but fewer tourists.</p>
<p><strong>Abruzzo</strong></p>
<p>With Abruzzo National Park and local delicacies like wild mushrooms and wild boar ham, and yes, plenty of <em>Montepulciano d’Abruzz</em>o, how can you go wrong?</p>
<p><strong>Puglia</strong></p>
<p>Sparkling seas, a rugged landscape, and passionate local food traditions abound in the heel of Italy’s boot. Each month, a different food is celebrated, based on whatever is in season. </p>
<p>And you know those cute little pasta ears, <em>orecchiette</em>? Those are a national dish here, served with broccoli rabe and salted fish. </p>
<p><strong>Sicily</strong></p>
<p>With miles of vineyards to rival Piedmont and Tuscany, Italy’s largest island is unspoiled by modern life. The Mediterranean diet is king here, with plenty of local fish, lemons, and oranges. Add eye-popping blue seas and olive groves to the food feast, not to mention Sicilian gelato and local wines. </p>
<h3>Community Connection!</h3>
<p>Get in touch with Italy experts from the Matador community before planning your trip. </p>
<p><a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-community/travel-community-suz">Suz</a>, or &#8220;diastro Americano&#8221; as her Italian cousins call her, knows all the best wine bars and live music venues of Rome. <a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-community/julianne">Julianne</a> is a writer and photographer, currently working on a book about the Italian Renaissance from her base in Venice.  <a href="http://matadortravel.com/travel-community/katiebas">KatieBas</a> has lived with her husband in Rome for over 5 years.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>10 Things to do in Amsterdam BESIDES Smoking Pot</title>
		<link>http://matadortrips.com/10-things-to-do-in-amsterdam-besides-smoking-pot/</link>
		<comments>http://matadortrips.com/10-things-to-do-in-amsterdam-besides-smoking-pot/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jun 2008 04:48:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Marla Seidell</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Couples]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Urban]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Amsterdam]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Holland]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Netherlands]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://matadortrips.com/?p=62</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There's more to Amsterdam than legal bud.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080608-Marla.jpg" />
<p>Feature photo by<a href=" http://flickr.com/photos/goulao/1296930553/"> goulao</a> Photo by<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/rhoadeecha/440139325/"> rhoadeecha</a></p>
<div class="subtitle">Clear your head and get outside to explore Amsterdam like a local.</div>
<p><strong>Contrary to Pulp Fiction lore</strong>, there’s more to Amsterdam than hash bars. </p>
<p>Coffeeshops are the shit for many an Amsterdam virgin, yet locals view them as tourist traps lacking in &#8220;gezelligheid,&#8221; or coziness, the cornerstone of Dutch culture. Smoking yourself into a coma at the <a href="http://bulldog.nl">Bulldog</a> is just fine, but you’re going to miss out. </p>
<p>Follow these ten tips and you’ll do Amsterdam like a local.</p>
<h5>1) Immerse yourself in art. </h5>
<p>From Spui take tram 2 or 5 to Museumplein, where the <a href="www3.vangoghmuseum.nl">Van Gogh</a> and <a href="http://rijksmuseum.nl">Rijksmuseum</a> keep you occupied for hours. </p>
<p>View Van Gogh’s life through art, from the <a href="http://www3.vangoghmuseum.nl/vgm/index.jsp?page=1303&#038;collection=1294&#038;lang=enhttp://www3.vangoghmuseum.nl/vgm/index.jsp?page=1303&#038;collection=1294&#038;lang=enhttp://www3.vangoghmuseum.nl/vgm/index.jsp?page=1303&#038;collection=1294&#038;lang=en">Potato Eaters</a>  up through the last two months of his life in France. </p>
<p>Holland’s Golden Age is the highlight of the Rijksmuseum. Don’t miss <a href="http://www.rijksmuseum.nl/aria/aria_assets/SK-A-2344?lang=en">Vermeer’s Milkmaid</a>.</p>
<h5>2) Day trip it. </h5>
<p>For an excursion, the 15-minute train ride to Haarlem is worth the trip. </p>
<p>Browse fashionable boutiques, visit the Gothic <a href="http://www.bavo.nl/bladen/welkomkerk.htm">St. Bavo church</a>, and walk to the <a href="http://franshalsmuseum.nl">Frans Hals</a> art museum.</p>
<p>For eats, kick back at the spacious Café Brinkman (grandcafebrinkman.nl) on the square, and to top off the day, have drinks at Café 1900 (Barteljorisstraat 10) on the way back to the train station.</p>
<div class="captionleft"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080608-Marla5.jpg"/>
<p>Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/goulao/1296930553/">goulao</a></p>
</div>
<h5>3) Drink up. </h5>
<p>With more than 1200 intriguing pubs to crawl you’ll have more than your fill. </p>
<p>Start at the Heineken brewery (Stadshouderkade 78) to see how famous beer is produced. Check out <a href="http://café-belgique.nl">Café Belgique</a>  to taste smooth Belgian brews like La Chouffe and La Trappe Dubbel. </p>
<p>Other standouts: gallery/bar Schuim (Spuistraat 189), <a href="http://cafegollem.nl">Gollem</a>, and <a href="http://indewildeman.nl">In De Wildeman</a>.</p>
<h5>4) Night bike it. </h5>
<p>Amsterdam is most romantic at night, when the city is aglow from lit up bridges and canals. </p>
<p>Start at Leidseplein and bike down Kerkstraat to the Amstel River, where you’ll find the <a href="http://www.amsterdam.info/sights/magere_brug/">Skinny Bridge</a> in all its glory. </p>
<p>Cut across Waterlooplein to Jodenbreestraat, which takes you into Nieuwmarkt. Pay a visit to the <a href="http://indewaag.nl">Waag</a>, a pub/restaurant that once formed the city wall, or brown bar Café ‘t Loosje (Nieuwmarkt 32-34).</p>
<div class="captionleft"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080608-Marla2.jpg"/>
<p>Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/katielips/80227888/">katielips</a></p>
</div>
<h5>5) Club it. </h5>
<p>For pre-partying, head to Lux (Marnixstraat 403) Bitterzoet (Spuistraat 2), or Seymour Likely (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250) for live DJs. </p>
<p>Join the dance crowd at Mazzo (Rozengracht 114), Club More (Rozengracht 133), and Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8). For a laid-back vibe, check out Café Alto (Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115) for local jazz acts.</p>
<div class="captionleft"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080608-Marla4.jpg"/>
<p>Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/tylerdurden/506350372/">tylerdurden</a></p>
</div>
<h5>6) Shop for treasures. </h5>
<p>Walk the famous 9 streets (theninestreets.com), to pick up cutting edge fashion and eclectic wares. </p>
<p>Don’t miss Lady Day, which sells vintage and secondhand European fashion for a steal. Browse for a designer fragrance like Creed at <a href="http://skins.nl">Skins Cosmetics</a>, investigate the <a href="http://paulfrank.com">Paul Frank Store </a>, and get pampered at <a href="http://spoiled.nl">Spoiled</a>, where you’ll be custom matched to a designer pair of jeans.</p>
<div class="captionleft"><img src="http://matadornetwork.cachefly.net/matadortrips.com/docs//wp-content/images/posts/20080608-Marla3.jpg"/>
<p>Photo by <a href="http://flickr.com/photos/earcos/2088397447/">earcos</a></p>
</div>
<h5>7) Do it like the Dutch. </h5>
<p>Nothing says typically Dutch better than a hunk of Gouda stuffed in a fresh bread roll. </p>
<p>Savor this ritual by picking up a sandwich at Broodje van Kootje (Spui 28). Grab a newspaper at the <a href="http://athenaeum.nl">Athenaeum bookstore</a> across the way, and plunk yourself down on a bench in the square. </p>
<p>For another Dutch favorite, visit the Pannekoekenhuis, a tiny upstairs restaurant on the second floor of a narrow canal house. Dive into big pancakes, served sweet or savory.</p>
<h5>8 ) Indulge, Indonesian style. </h5>
<p>A former colony of the Netherlands, Indonesia now occupies Amsterdam, in terms of cuisine. </p>
<p>The rice table (a smorgasbord of dishes) is the name of the game but you can opt for the Nasi Goreng (fried rice) at <a href="http://siejoe.nl">Sie Joe</a>. </p>
<p>For something more upscale, consider <a href="http://tempodoeloerestaurant.com">Tempoe Doloe</a>, on the boutique-lined street, Utrechtsestraat or <a href="http://purimas.nl">Puri Mas</a>, located in the entertainment district of Leidseplein.</p>
<h5>9) While the day away in a café. </h5>
<p>At Café Zeezicht (Hoofdweg 456), people watch on the outdoor terrace, sipping a Dutch style latte and nibbling on the best apple tart in town. Brown cafes, named for their wooden interiors, are good for mingling with the locals. </p>
<p>Cafes not to miss: <a href="http://debalie.nl">De Balie</a>, Café De Tuin (Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 13), and Café ‘t Smalle (Egelantiersgracht 12).</p>
<h5>10) Walk it. </h5>
<p>Start at the eastern end of the Albert Cuyp street market in the ethnically diverse neighborhood <a href="http://amsterdam.info/depijp">De Pijp</a>. </p>
<p>Peruse Dutch treats like fish, cheese, and chocolate among 300 stalls. Take a right on Ferdinand Bolstraat, then a left on Stadshouderkade. </p>
<p>Take a right at Spiegelgracht for a stroll in the antique district. Turn left onto Herengracht to see splendid 17th century canal houses. Make a right at Leidsestraat and go up to Singel. </p>
<p>Hit the Singel lunch Café (Singel 404) for homemade soups and baguette sandwiches.</p>
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