Iraqi Army soldier, Sab al Bors, Iraq. Photo and feature by jamesdale10

Travel is a powerful force for peace. An engaged, open-minded traveler can be an ambassador of empathy and an antidote to terror.

The day American and Iraqi travelers can travel freely in each others country will be a great day. On that day, we will know for certain that war has at long last given way to peace.

Is it reasonable for you to consider traveling to Iraq now?

I don’t know. It depends on who you are and when you read this. If you do go to Iraq, however, keep these tips in mind – and tell us about your travels when you come home!

Do Your Research

Produce stand, East Baghdad, Iraq. Photo by jamesdale10

You can’t book a trip to Iraq in the same way you might book a Caribbean cruise. Do not even consider visiting Iraq until you have thoroughly researched the country, including recent political events.

Stay abreast of current news for months before your trip and while you are in Iraq. The best source of quality English-language journalism in Iraq is probably the Baghdad Bureau of the New York Times.

Other excellent sources of Iraq news include the BBC News Iraq Page and Al Jazeera English.

For general information and a range of helpful links, visit the website Another Iraq.

Stick To Safe Zones

Last year, an Italian tourist named Luca Marchio was found wandering around Falluja.

“I am a tourist. I want to see the most important cities in the country. That is the reason why I am here now,” he was quoted as saying.

“I want to see and understand the reality because I have never been here before, and I think every country in the world must be seen.”

As admirable as Luca’s sentiment might have been, he was lucky to get out of Falluja alive.

The truth is that some regions of Iraq are much safer than others. I would have no qualms about visiting much of Iraqi Kurdistan, for example, which Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler explored way back in 2006.

Generally speaking, southern Iraq is safer than the Sunni Triangle, and a traveler must be particularly careful in Baghdad, where the line between relatively safe and highly dangerous neighborhoods is sometimes unclear.

Iraqi Kurdish boy, Iraqi Kurdistan. Photo by jamesdale10

Don’t Go Gonzo

Iraq is the sort of destination that can attract adrenaline seekers with a talent for getting into trouble. Especially in the heady days of early occupation, Iraq was a green playground for dangerously naive foreigners drawn by money and war.

Most of these Quiet Americans are either jaded or gone. Some of them are dead.

You are advised to be extraordinarily cautious, respectful, and unobtrusive while in Iraq. The idea of going gonzo in a slow-burning war-zone might be exhilarating, but it can get very real very fast in this part of the world.

Baghdad, Iraq. Photo by jamesdale10

Consider A Guided Tour

A handful of specialty tour companies offer itineraries in Iraq. Hinterland Travel is a well regarded company with regularly scheduled tours in Iraqi Kurdistan.

A pioneering 17-day Hinterland of Baghdad, Babylon, and Basra was recently written up in the New York Times under the headline “Travelers, Your Tour Bus For Basra Is Boarding.”

Go Through Amman, Jordan

Amman is a safe, modern, vibrant city only 500 miles from Baghdad and linked by frequent buses and flights. Many Iraqi refugees live in Amman or travel there for health care.

Amman is a good place to cool your heels for a few days while absorbing all the latest information about current events in Iraq.

There are hundreds of Couchsurfers in Amman who can host you, in addition to all sorts of guesthouses and hotels.

Try To Blend In

Iraqi man and son. Photo by jamesdale10

There are basically two ways to stay safe in Iraq. The American Way, brought to you by Blackwater and Halliburton, is to drive fast, surrounded by soldiers and bodyguards.

If you aren’t traveling on the taxpayer’s dime, a better strategy is to blend in as much as possible. Women should dress in local fashion and men should grow out their facial hair.

Learning a bit of Arabic before you go couldn’t hurt.

Join The Army?

Many of the American soldiers in Iraq are trying hard to build peace, and joining up with this effort can be a noble decision.

US soldiers dine with Iraqi leaders. Photo by jamesdale10

Practically speaking, the army pays fairly well, offering good benefits and a route out of poverty for some Americans.

However, life as a soldier can be difficult and risky, and there are moral questions inherent in being part of a violent occupation.

For more information check out:

Official U.S. Army recruiting website

Iraq Veterans Against The War

Talk To Someone Who Has Been To Iraq

Iraq might seem as distant as another planet, but chances are you know someone who has been there recently. A trickle of Iraqi refugees are starting to settle in the states, and thousands of soldiers are coming home from deployment.

Reach out to these people. Invite them in and listen to their stories.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Matador members who have been to Iraq include:

Canoe:

Dustin is a native Texan who loves his canoe and his camera. Dustin studied at Texas State University and graduated with a BS in digital imaging. He also served 4 years in the US Army and is currently deployed to Iraq with the National Guard in support of Operation Iraqi Freedom.

Slinky:

I have always enjoyed traveling around the U.S. but now have a job and money to travel internationally. I plan to use this to explore the world. I have dabbled in a lot of different sports, but plan to get back into para-gliding, kiting, dirt-biking, four-wheeling, and fun when I return from Iraq.

Andy-J:

I’m a U.S. Marine…and a hippy.

Photo above: sebastian ceriani, Feature photo: Army.mil

Central Laos does not get many travelers, and the tourism office in the provincial capital of Tha Khaek has done a good job of designing treks that alleviate poverty in isolated villages without disrupting local culture.

Travelers get a chance to experience a beautiful part of rural Laos where the locals take pride in hosting foreign guests – a happy balance that does not always exist in more heavily touristed regions of Southeast Asia.

Basics

The 2-day trek costs about $65 per person for a group of at least 3 people — more for couples or single travelers. This is a fair price, and much of the money goes to local villagers who guide groups through the mountains and cook delicious meals.

Travelers start out in Tha Khaek, a medium-sized town on the Mekong River that’s about halfway between Vientiane and Pakse.

There’s a wonderful guesthouse in Tha Khaek called The Travel Lodge that has a range of inexpensive rooms, a good restaurant, and friendly, competent staff. If you’re on your own, this is also a good place to meet other travelers who can join you on the trek.

Destinations

Community Connection to Laos

Phu Hin Bun NPA

The trek explores the Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area, an isolated region of jagged peaks and clear, turquoise streams that looks like a classical Chinese landscape painting. The sheer mountainsides are refuges for several species of endangered primates, and tigers stalk the deepest parts of the jungle.

The villagers who live in the Phu Hin Bun NPA are largely self-sufficient, growing rice, fruit and vegetables, and raising water buffalo, pigs, chickens, and cows. While many treks in Laos visit ethnic minorities, the villagers here are mostly lowland Lao.

Eat, Walk, Swim

I LOVED the food on this trek. Fresh catfish grilled with garlic over a campfire on the banks of a stream was served alongside sticky rice, mountain vegetables, eggplant, and traditional pastes of herbs and chili.

For dinner we ate water buffalo laap, a Lao dish of minced meat with herbs and spices. Vegetarian options were limited but available.

The walks through the forest were broken up by frequent stops at spectacular swimming holes, including a sacred wellspring of turquoise water called Khoun Kong Leng.

Other highlights included a cave that links two valleys by cutting straight through a mountain, and an old temple where the prayer bell was made from the shell of a 500-pound bomb. This bombshell was a poignant reminder of the massive U.S. bombing campaign of rural Laos — a war that the White House kept secret from both Congress and the American people.

Cultural Respect

Visiting this part of Central Laos is a privilege, and travelers should take care to respect Lao customs. Understand that Lao people are extremely non-confrontational and place a premium on smooth social interactions.

Be gentle, kind, patient, and appreciative. Showing any sign of frustration or anger is extremely rude in Laos, so if you don’t like something it’s better just to smile and, if you must, gently inquire about alternatives. The head guide will speak reasonable English, but speak slowly and try to learn some Lao words. Everyone will be thrilled to hear you make the effort.

Photo: Mat Honan

Community Connection:

Other Matador articles on Laos include travel guides to Champasak and Muang Ngoi Neua, and an excellent article that gives the low-down on a unique two-week itinerary in Northern Laos.

You can also read the uncensored version of my San Francisco Chronicle feature on Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of Laos. The Matador version is called “Lusty Luang Prabang.”

One final resource is the excellent website Ecotourism Laos.

If you have other helpful links, questions, or advice for travelers, please leave a comment below. For those without a Matador profile, please take a moment to join the community. You won’t regret it!

Photo by Tjeerd Creative Commons.

Twenty-five years ago a few intrepid travelers found paradise in the Andaman Sea. Phi Phi Island, off the coast of southern Thailand, was almost totally undeveloped.

There were no resorts on Phi Phi – just white sand beaches and palm trees, plus a small village of sea gypsies who called themselves “the island people.”

Travelers who made the epic journey to Phi Phi returned to the mainland with glittering eyes and epic stories. More travelers caught the once-a-week cargo ship to this new island paradise, then more and more and more.

Today, Phi Phi is packed with tourists. Dozens of resorts line the once-empty beaches and trash floats in the water off concrete piers built to accommodate large ferries.

Phi Phi is still beautiful, “a discovered paradise still worth checking out,” as Matador founder Ross Borden wrote last year, but for those who knew the island before the crowds arrived, Phi Phi is a tragic example of Paradise Lost.

A Call For RESPECT

Some of the islands described below are on the track to development, though early in the stage. Some are already protected. It’s up to you, as a sensitive and engaged traveler, to respect the information below, to preserve the natural environment and to honor the people who call these island Edens home.

-Tim Patterson, Editor, MatadorTrips.com

Koh Rong Crab. Photo by Ryan Libre

6. Koh Rong, Cambodia

Koh Rong is bigger and more beautiful than the most famous Thai islands, but there are no established beach resorts on Koh Rong yet, simply because it’s in Cambodia.

Last year your faithful Koh Rong correspondent camped in an abandoned house on 6 miles of white sand beach, and survived scary encounters with illegal loggers and Cambodian Navy men.

Now there’s word of heavy investment on Koh Rong, with big money flowing to the boss man in Phnom Penh and rumors of Russian, Japanese and Chinese investors.

Here’s the secret guide I wrote to Koh Rong 2 years ago, along with a follow-up article in Traverse – for more updates, keep your ear to the ground at TalesofAsia.

Beach Day on Bohol. Photo by The Wandering Angel. Creative Commons.

5. Bohol, Philippines

I have a confession. The Philippines intimidate me. There are just too many islands, too many languages, too much history.

How to pick just one of more than 7,000 islands?

Matador expert CaseyGusto lived on Bohol island in the Philippines for 2 years. Bohol gets a lot of tourists, he says, which it should – it’s one of the most beautiful islands in the whole archipelago.

But there are gorgeous parts of Bohol that are not developed, including outlying islands, where you can chill with some of the friendliest locals in the world.

Here’s Casey’s complete online guide to Bohol.

Cuttyhunk is a great place to catch big stripers. Photo by jedstr. Creative Commons.

4. Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts, USA

Cuttyhunk is one of the most laid-back island “summer communities” off the coast of New England. There’s nothing to do except catch enormous striped bass, breathe fresh sea air and sniff about the new money that ruined Nantucket.

Cuttyhunk.net says it best:

Cuttyhunk does not have discos, bars, malls, a singles scene, a party life, video games, parking lots, traffic, or much action.

What Cuttyhunk does have is a quiet, isolated, beautiful, ocean environment, perfect for getting in touch with yourself.

For bonus points, arrive in Cuttyhunk on your own sailboat.

Lily walk on Teuri with Mt. Rishiri in the background. Photo by Stephanie Guico

3. Teuri-to, Japan

Teuri-to is a lot like Cuttyhunk, except it’s off the northern coast of Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan, way north of Vladivostok, Russia.

The fresh sushi and sashimi on Teuri is quite simply the best and cheapest I found in 2 years of traveling around Japan and the locals will be thrilled to see you.

Here’s a feature article I wrote last year about the sea-urchin roe festival on Teuri.

Providencia from the air. Photo by Speculando. Creative Commons.

2. Providencia, Colombia

Providencia is the less developed of two isolated islands that lie off Colombia’s Caribbean coast, near the border with Nicaragua. Thanks to Richard, one of Matador’s many Colombia experts, for the heads-up:

Long stretches of white sandy beaches, verdant hillsides and palm trees lining the streets. Over the five days we rented a moped to explore the island, lazed on deserted beaches, drifted in the breeze in hammocks, slept late and enjoyed some cold ones with the locals. It was a cliche, it was paradise.

Read Richard’s complete Blog Post On Providencia.

Salt Cay South Point. Photo by M.C. Blanton.

1. Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos Islands

I thought I’d never write about Salt Cay. It’s a special place to my friends and family, truly a second home, just a low-lying slab of coral, sand and memories 90 miles north of Haiti, as far from the corruption and resort glitz of the capital island Provodenciales as you can get in the Turk and Caicos islands (which are south of the Bahamas).

Salt Cay is the most beautiful island I know, not because of the sunsets, empty beaches, neighborly humpback whales or free-range donkeys, but because of the pious, good-humored and hard-working people who live there.

Now, the whole island will be literally ripped in half for a mega-resort, complete with golf course and yacht marina. There will be worker dormitories at the airport, next to the runway – now lengthened to accommodate private jets.

The donkeys will be shot, or worse, shipped to Haiti. The development in the Turks and Caicos is getting ugly. Rape ugly. I wonder if I’ll ever go back there, and I can’t write about this anymore.

Salt Cay Historic Preservation

Salt Cay Resident’s Prayerful Protest (video)

Ha Long Bay

When I sit down to write a new edition of Best Trips, I start looking for free online travel information with a simple Google search, then follow the link trail until I find the most useful content on the web.

With this Vietnam edition however, I knew exactly where to start looking. Free online travel information for Vietnam starts with one name: Robert Reid.

The Future Of Guidebooks

A veteran writer for Lonely Planet, Reid passed up the opportunity to update the newest edition of LP’s Vietnam guidebook. Instead, he went independent and online – publishing a comprehensive, free guide to Vietnam in September 2007, only a month after he finished his travel research.

Reid says his website is “the most in-depth, independently researched guidebook online for any destination”. He’s right, but it ain’t gonna stay that way for long.

The future of travel guides is online, and more and more travel writers are trading their book publishing contract for a Wordpress template and a few Google generated ads.

Free Itineraries, Free Maps, Free Videos

Highlights from Reid’s online Vietnam guide include a handy-dandy itinerary planner, a collection of videos, free maps and easily printable, detailed guides to every nook and cranny of Vietnam (his guide to Phu Quoc Island is particularly good).

Speaking of Phu Quoc, a large island at which I’ve often gazed wistfully from the beach of Kep, Cambodia, check out Reid’s recent feature in the Houston Chronicle.

OK. Enough kissing up to Mr. Reid. Here are some more free online resources for your Vietnam travels.

More Resources

The FAQ Thread on Lonely Planet’s Thorntree forum has some useful information.

The New York Times travel section on Vietnam isn’t exactly comprehensive, but does boast solid features on golf in Vietnam and the ritzy southern resort town of Mui Ne.

TravelFish serves up an extremely useful article on how to catch a train in Vietnam (also check out an account of Scott Lothes rail journey to Hue on the Reunification Express).

In case you missed them, last week we featured detailed guides to Surfing Vietnam and Cycling Vietnam’s Highway 1 right here on MatadorTrips.

If you have any questions about a trip to Vietnam, or just want to talk about rare monkeys, be sure to get in touch with Matador’s Vietnam expert, Delacouri.

Have you come across any free online travel resources for Vietnam? Please leave a comment below!

Where’s The Real Thailand?

Thailand is one of the most popular tourism destinations in the whole wide world, but very few travelers make the extra effort to experience the most heart-warming aspects of Thai culture. Why is this so?

Well, Thais are very accommodating people, and very, very good at putting on a show for tourists.

From ping-pong shows and poolside Pina Coladas to hill-tribe treks and elephant rides, the well-lubricated Thai tourism industry is carefully designed to cater to the expectations of foreign tourists.

Here at Matador, we know there is far more to Thailand than the attractions along the tourist trail. Get to know the people in a Thai farming village, for example, and you’ll discover some of the happiest, healthiest and good-hearted people in the world.

This edition of Best Trips is for travelers who want to experience the authentic side of Thailand, and take home memories that can’t be bought from a travel agent or captured in a tourist brochure.

Happy Travels!

“Volunteer In Thailand”

Volunteer travel opportunities are a great way to slow down and experience the rugged beauty and sunny smiles of the Thai countryside.

Matador’s Madagascar maven Mei-Ling McNamara recently published a quick guide to 3 standout volunteer opps. in Thailand. Her picks:

The Elephant Nature Foundations – a jungle retreat near Chiang Mai

The Wildlife Friends Of Thailand – a wildlife rescue center 85 miles from Bangkok

Panya Project – an eco-village near Chiang Mai

Panya, where Mei-Ling participated in a natural building workshop, is one of Matador’s favorite places in Thailand, just a mango orchard away from our next featured destination….

Pun Pun – Matador’s Favorite Thai Retreat

Pun Pun is a remarkable place – a community of idealistic farmers, poets, builders, architects and scientists who have created a living example of sustainability at the edge of a National Park in the north of Thailand.

Your loyal editor Tim Patterson wrote about Pun Pun in a story published last year in Matador’s Traverse magazine, and Matador friends got a fresh dose of stoke just last week, when Pun Pun’s new website launched.

Check out a mouth-watering description of the farm’s new organic restaurant, located on the grounds of a Buddhist monastery in Chiang Mai, and the new Pun Pun schedule, which includes a 10 Day Sustainability Study Trip in the winter of 2009.

If you only have a few days in Northern Thailand and love organic and vegetarian Thai food, check out Pun Pun’s other neighbor -You Sabai Guesthouse and Cooking School.

You Sabai is where Matador founders Ross Borden and Ben Polansky became card carrying “Thai chef ninjas” and Matador member Noellejt woke up at dawn to do mountaintop yoga.

How About The Thai Islands?

Sadly, most of the Thai islands are overdeveloped, and in some cases the profit-driven excesses of the tourist industry have destroyed what were once pristine natural environments.

There are still gorgeous Thai islands with intact ecosystems to explore. Tezza’s Thai Islands and Beach Bits over at TalesofAsia is a good place to get a sense of the current state of development on several islands.

Ryan Libre recommends a trip to Ko Surin in his Thailand Top 10, and check out MatadorTrips next month for a detailed guide to the laidback beaches of Trang, but to experience miles of truly deserted white sand beach, your best bet is to check out the Cambodian side of the Gulf of Thailand…

Have you come across any free online travel resources that can help travelers discover the authentic side of Thailand? Please leave a comment below!

The Matador Team tries to publish the most inspiring free, online travel guides in the world.

But we’re hardly the only travel writers scouring the planet for truly special places – and posting the best discoveries online.

To celebrate this wealth of free travel resources, each week MatadorTrips will spotlight the best travel guides we find on the Internet, themed to a specific destination.

“Best Trips” is an echo of our sister publication BraveNewTraveler’s popular Best of the Week.

Open your imagination. Get inspired.

“More Discerning Puntas”

For chill beaches, leave Buenos Aires for Uruguay – and don’t stop at Punta del Este.

Thanks to my friend Kat for pointing me to the excellent travel section in the Guardian, the most sensible of U.K. newspapers.

Wonder of wonders, the Guardian recently ran a top-notch feature on the quiet coast of Uruguay, including a mention of the beach hostel where I’m typing right now.

Also check out my latest blog from Punta del Diablo, and Jaunted.com editor Paul Brady’s pick for best beach bar and best empanada on the Uruguayan coast.

“Iguazu Falls By Moonlight”

How to make Argentina’s most romantic destination even sultrier? Just add moonlight.

One of the very first guides published on MatadorTrips was to Iguazu Falls, described by Lucia as the most romantic destination in Argentina.

Now, our friends at Argentina’s Travel Guide report that it’s possible to visit the falls by moonlight for 4 days during the full moon.

Never heard of Iguazu? ATG has a good primer.

“Argentine Nights”

Tango, Vino…and Controversy!

We took a lot of harsh criticism for the “Guide To Getting Laid In Buenos Aires” over at MatadorNights. I don’t feel too bad though, because even the New York Times failed to please the Argentine blogosphere with their recent feature on ex-pat bohemians in Buenos Aires.

And at least we aren’t being accused of stealing material…

Have you come across any free online travel resources for Argentina or Uruguay? Please leave a comment below!