1. Singapore

With its sizable Indian and Chinese populations, going vegetarian is easy in Singapore. Hawker centers and food courts throughout the city offer plenty of veggie choices. Or head to colorful Little India for authentic, exclusively vegetarian cuisine at long-established Komala Vilas or chain restaurants Sagar Ratna and Saravana Bhavan.

2. Chiang Mai

The second largest city in Thailand, Chiang Mai is a haven for vegetarians and vegans alike. Open-air eateries within walking distance of the city center abound, and can usually be identified by yellow banners bearing a single Chinese character (‘jay’ or vegetarian).

Try a meatless version of Khao Soi, a northern Thai favorite consisting of egg noodles in a soupy coconut curry sauce, garnished with pickles, shallots, and lime.

Khao Soi / Photo by Jason Hutchens

3. Taipei

Based on Buddhist practices, vegetarian food in Taiwan has developed into a separate cuisine, replete with varieties of chewy “meat” fashioned out of gluten or textured soy protein. Taipei and Taichung, a smaller city in the central part of the island, teem with vegan food stalls and buffet-style restaurants serving everything from stewed “beef” to stir fried “squid.”

4. Kyoto

While Japan is generally not very veg-friendly, you can easily find unique Zen Buddhism-inspired vegetarian cuisine in Kyoto. Called shojin ryori, the multi-course meals are served in or near the city’s many temples, such as Nanzen-ji, Daitoku-ji, and Tenryu-ji.

Local specialties include yuba (tofu skin), fu (wheat gluten), and produce such as eggplant, daikon, and root vegetables. Dishes are meticulously prepared and presented; unfortunately, dinners can be quite pricey.

5. Vancouver

With a sizable organic and sustainable cooking movement, Vancouver is home to a large variety of vegetarian fare and natural food markets. Sample vegan pizza at Jamaican Pizza Jerk, satisfy late night comfort food cravings at The Naam, or take your pick from many ethnic and fusion restaurants around the city.

Photo by Rodefeld.

6. Sydney

From ethnic restaurants to beachside cafes, non-meat options are pretty much de rigueur in this laid-back city. Sydney is also particularly vegan-friendly with Chinese mock meat and vegetarian dim sum restaurants. Favorites include Iku Wholefood and Laurie’s Vegetarian Take Away.

7. London

The veggie dining choices in London are as diverse as its population, offering everything from meatless variations of British favorites, such as sausage and mash and shepherd’s pie, to masala dosa and chickpea tagine.

Exclusively vegetarian restaurants have also cropped up, serving creative fusion fare. Notable eats include Riverside Vegetaria, The Gate, and Manna.

8. San Francisco

With its countercultural traditions and penchant for locally grown foods, the Bay Area has long boasted plenty of veggie-friendly choices. Snack on tofu dogs at a Giants’ game in AT&T Park, check out the vegan ice cream at Maggie Mudd, or splurge on a vegetarian feast at Millennium.

9. Portland, OR

Portland buzzes with an eco-friendly vibe and it’s quickly becoming an herbivore’s dream destination. From downtown food carts to eclectic restaurants and stores, such as Paradox Palace Café, Voo Doo Doughnuts, and Food Fight!, Portland’s got something even hardcore vegans will appreciate.

Photo by ~MVI~.

10. New York City

The vegetarian experience in the city that never sleeps goes beyond ethnic dining. Whether you’re seeking kosher raw foods, gourmet macrobiotic dishes, or vegetarian diner fare, you will find it here. NYC is also home to a number of health food stores, as well as the Natural Gourmet Cookery School, which offers a four-course vegetarian dinner prepared by students each Friday.

11. Mexico City

Purely vegetarian restaurants and health food stores can be found throughout the city, including chains of Super Soya, The Green Corner, and Vegi Market.

Street vendors, hawking fruit (coconut sprinkled with chili and lime), elote (corn), and fresh juices, among other goodies, also ensure that vegetarians eat well in Mexico City.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you prefer cooking for yourself on the road, check out Eva Holland’s article, “What Every Backpacker Should Know About Cooking for Themselves.”

Facial Bling

Cleopatra apparently slept in a gold mask every night to maintain youthful looking skin, inspiring the latest in Japan’s pursuit of glowing, wrinkle-free skin.

Paper-thin squares of 24-karat gold are applied on the face along with hydrating compounds. The result includes firmer, more supple skin, and not surprisingly, a noticeable dent in your wallet.

Soup Soak

The Japanese have a penchant for the bizarre, and the ramen soup bath is no exception. Offered seasonally by the Yunessun Spa in Hakone, south of Tokyo, bathers lounge in a bowl-shaped tub filled with a steaming broth of pepper, garlic extract, and collagen, purported to boost metabolism and nourish the skin.

Photo by alles-schlumpf

The kid-friendly spa also features a variety of themed baths, including green tea, red wine, and sake.

Oil Drip

There was a time when you had to go to India or Sri Lanka for Ayurveda, an ancient method of healing that focuses on detoxification and restoration of the body’s natural balance.

These days, many spas offer Shirodhara, an Ayurvedic treatment that involves slowly dripping warm oil or buttermilk over the forehead in the area known as the “third eye.” Originally intended to treat conditions ranging from neurological disorders to skin ailments, the rhythmic drip is also used for its relaxing, meditative properties.

Slithering Spa

Ada Barak’s Carnivorous Plant Farm in Northern Israel doubles as a spa, boasting a waiting list for massages given by snakes (yes, those limbless elongated animals, but the non-venomous varieties). The writhing of such reptiles on the skin is said to be quite therapeutic.

Larger snakes are heavy enough to produce a deep kneading massage, while the smaller ones flutter over the skin, creating a calming, caressing sensation.

Bovine Secretions

Touted as “Viagra for Hair,” Hari’s Bull Sperm Hair Treatment promises to transform over-processed hair into healthy, flowing tresses at its London salon.

The protein-rich treatment is a combination of organic Aberdeen Angus bull semen and Katera, a plant root from Iran. Once it is massaged into wet hair, this unusual concoction is left to work its magic.

Hay Bath

Photo by Matthew Boyle

For over a hundred years, travelers have been trekking to the foothills of the Italian Dolomites for a therapy that eases aches and pains. Pioneered by Hotel Heubad, the treatment involves being tightly wrapped in a sheet filled with damp fermenting hay and soaking in a water bed heated to over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The heat opens the pores to receive the healing qualities of the Alpine grasses.

Fire Cupping

Spas have proliferated in China’s megacities, drawing upon traditional regimens such as cupping. In this procedure, small glass or bamboo cups are lit and applied on the skin, usually the back. When the air inside the cup cools, a vacuum is created, stimulating blood flow and rebalancing inner energy.

While painless, dark red circular welts– an effect stranger than the process itself– remain.

Beer Bath

Spas in the Czech Republic offer an unconventional remedy for the weary: a soak in warmed lager. Yeast and hops contain health-inducing chemicals said to boost complexion and relieve muscle tension.

You probably shouldn’t sample the tepid, murky bathwater; at the Prave Pivni Lazni, or original beer spa, run by the Chodovar brewery in the town of Chodova Plana, you’re given cool pints to drink during your stint in “Beer Wellness Land.”

Chocolate Wrap

In the hills of Hershey, Pennsylvania, the spa at the Hotel Hershey offers a plethora of delicious-sounding treats. Based on the premise that chocolate’s vitamins and antioxidants fight aging and accelerate cellular rejuvenation, one such regimen, the Chocolate Fondue Wrap, involves being slathered with warmed Moor mud and essence of cocoa and then wrapped in a blanket.

Exfoliating Fish

Originally from Turkey, the garra rufa is more commonly known as “Doctor Fish” throughout Japan and parts of Southeast Asia. These toothless relatives of the carp feed on dead, flaky skin, attacking whichever body part is offered as a snack.

While these hard-working fish have been known to treat skin ailments such as psoriasis and eczema, they are more likely to be doing full body exfoliations or prepping the feet for a pedicure.

Hospital in Singapore. Photo courtesy nahele

As soon as you step into Bumrungrad International Hospital in Bangkok, it’s apparent that medical tourism – the melding of tourism and healthcare – is big business.

The lobby of the hospital is indistinguishable from that of an upscale hotel, with plush sofas, soft lighting, and its very own Starbucks. About half a dozen languages can be heard as efficient, multilingual staff usher patients to their appointments.

Last year, millions of patients, including about 500,000 Americans according to the National Coalition on Health Care, traveled abroad seeking affordable medical and dental care, no waiting lists, and longer convalescing periods.

Where are the medical tourism hot spots? Check out this list.

1. Thailand

One of Asia’s medical tourism pioneers, Thailand’s private urban hospitals have long been swarmed by tourists. Many initially sought cosmetic procedures, including sex changes, for a fraction of the prices back home; now, treatments encompass everything from orthopedic treatments to dental and cardiac surgeries.

Traditional ayurveda drugstore, India.

Photo: skasuga

2. India

Gaining reputation for its skilled English-speaking medical professionals, wide range of procedures and surgeries, and very low prices, India attracts med-trotters from near and far, with a recent surge in the number of American patients.

Many hospitals also offer traditional Ayurvedic treatments, where herbs, massage, and yoga comprise a system of alternative medicine.

3. Singapore

Another pioneer of medical travel in Asia, Singapore possesses one of the best health care systems in the world according to World Health Organization (WHO). The squeaky clean (literally) city-state woos globetrotting patients with every major medical treatment, including stem cell treatments for cancer.

4. China

With recent reports of tainted drugs and unethical organ harvesting, China is not likely on anyone’s radar as a medical destination. It is, however, the place for experimental (and highly controversial) stem cell therapy for everything from spinal injuries to neurodegenerative disorders.

Medical emergency in Ziyang, China. Photo courtesy quiplash!

5. Poland

Long waits for services back home, cheap flights and bargain prices have boosted the popularity of dental tourism in Poland, especially among the Brits. The Polish government is also promoting more comprehensive service offerings, as well as traditional spa treatments such as salt caves and thermal baths.

6. Hungary

For over a decade, Austrian, Swiss and German patients have been driving over the Hungarian border for inexpensive dental work. The former Eastern bloc nation’s decision to jump on the medical tourism bandwagon is therefore not surprising.

It does, however, face competition from the Czech Republic, Bulgaria and Romania – all accessible by Western Europeans via ground transport and low cost air-carriers.

7. Mexico

Americans are heading over the border for cosmetic procedures, dentistry, and vision correction surgery in specialized clinics. Mexico is growing in popularity, as some US health insurers are offering policyholders coverage in order to cut costs, and its services are being met with high patient satisfaction rates.

Calderon Hospital in Costa Rica. Photo courtesy Don Fulano

8. Costa Rica

Against a backdrop of volcanoes, beaches, and cloudforests, Costa Rica advertises recovery retreats, or ranches created for recuperating medical tourists. The nation is known for dental tourism, as well as plastic and cosmetic surgery, and its proximity to the US and Canada makes it a growing destination for medical tourism in the Western Hemisphere.

9. Brazil

Brazil is one of the largest markets for cosmetic surgery, boasting about 4,500 licensed cosmetic surgeons, the highest per capita rate in the world. From facelifts and rhinoplasty to weight loss treatments and bariatric surgery, Sao Paolo and Rio de Janiero are the destinations of choice for travelers who elect to go under the knife for the sake of beauty.

Hermanos Almejeiras in Cuba -

Hospital featured in Michael Moore’s Sicko.

Photo: anna_t

10. Cuba

With universal health care and free medical education for scores of international students, Cuba has long been known for its medical capabilities and dedicated doctors. Latin American and European medical tourists have been visiting Cuba for decades.

Foreigners who pay in hard currency receive quality treatment. But keep in mind that Cuba’s health care may be built on solid ideals, lauded in Michael Moore’s 2007 documentary Sicko, but the system is dramatically two-tiered.

11. Jordan

Jordan aspires to be a regional medical tourism hub, channeling investment funds into its health infrastructure.

Last year the Kingdom attracted a fair number of Iraqi, Palestinian and Sudanese patients, with reported revenues exceeding one billion US dollars.

Jordan’s specialties include heart surgery, infertility treatment, and cornea transplants, and the country is poised to leverage its wellness and spa industry, given its access to the Dead Sea.

Salt and mineral-rich waters allow for a healthy buoyancy in the Dead Sea at Israel. Photo courtesy onesevenone

12. Israel

An emerging destination for medical tourists, Israel aims to attract international patients within and beyond the Jewish diaspora. It is known for cancer and in-vitro fertilization treatments; a recent brochure by the Health and Tourism Ministries describes Israel as a “land of milk, honey and fertility.”

Wellness-minded travelers also visit the Dead Sea for its salt and mineral-rich waters, medicinal black mud, and dry, mineral-infused air.

Travel overseas for medical care is not without risk. Accreditation varies across the board, and it may not mean much. You must do much more research before deciding to embark on this type of travel.

There are a dizzying number of travel agents dedicated to promoting medical tourism, finding doctors, and booking arrangements in different nations. HealthCare Tourism International, a nonprofit that tracks global healthcare, provides a database of such services by country, as well as links to industry news. NPR also has an informative list of FAQs for those considering surgery abroad.

Community Connection

Worried about staying healthy while you’re traveling? Check out 5 Exercises to De-Stress on Long Flights.

Photo above by Graham King

Whether you seek wilderness adventure, immersion in a unique culture, or a spiritual journey, a trek through Bhutan’s mountains puts you in the heart of this little-known Himalayan Kingdom.

Here are some considerations for first-time trekkers:

The Basics

Trekking in Bhutan involves a multi-day trip, arranged like a camping expedition. This is due to government guidelines and because many areas are remote, devoid of accommodations. It is not uncommon to walk for several days before encountering a village.

A typical day consists of 5 to 7 hours of walking among some of the world’s most pristine natural surroundings, including subtropical jungles, alpine highlands, and snow-capped peaks.

You will be accompanied by a licensed Bhutanese guide, cook, and mules or yaks that carry tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment, food and other supplies.

In a nation steeped in Mahayana Buddhist traditions, the mountains are sacrosanct, housing deities. As such, you cannot scale peaks higher than 6,000 meters. At 7,570 meters, Gangkhar Puensum, the highest mountain in Bhutan, remains the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

While treks range from easy to strenuous, it helps to be moderately fit. Daily altitude gain is relatively high, so be aware of how best to acclimate your body.

Photo above by jmhullot

When to Go

The best high altitude trekking seasons are in late April, when colorful bursts of wildflowers dot the landscape, or during the pleasant, clear days of October.

Short treks at lower elevations are possible during most months. You can also time your visit to coincide with one of Bhutan’s colorful festivals, getting a glimpse inside the dzongs, or fortress-monasteries, that serve as administrative, religious, and social centers.

Climate varies significantly by region. The north, bordering Tibet, is perennially covered with snow. The central regions enjoy four distinct seasons similar to those of Western Europe, and the subtropical south is hot and humid. Monsoon rains pelt the country from June to September.

Photo above by jmhullot

The Treks

There are more than a dozen treks, ranging in difficulty. Some combine scenery and culture, passing dense pine and oak forests on the mountainside; whitewashed dzongs overlooking valleys; and chortens, squat monuments housing sacred Buddhist relics.

Druk Path is a week-long trek that crosses mountains connecting the valleys of Paro and Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital. The sparsely populated route winds around freshwater lakes, and if your timing is right, dozens of varieties of scented rhododendron bloom in late spring.

Photo above by babasteve

Bumthang Cultural and Gangtey Nature treks are shorter, lasting from two to four days. Gangtey passes through isolated valleys, including the winter home of rare black-necked cranes.

Of the thousand or so trekkers who visit each year, most head for Jhomolhari, the third highest peak in Bhutan and “abode of the Goddess Jhomo.” Following the river, the trek offers some of the best mountain scenery, including highland villages, yak pastures, and a base camp embedded in natural beauty.

Taking two weeks, the Jhomolhari – Laya – Gasa trek is an extension of the above. It weaves through the high Himalayas, leaving the Jhomolhari trail and heading east along the Tibetan border to Laya, and then south to Gasa and its hot springs.

Lunana Snowman is one of the hardest high altitude treks, involving walking and living in remote areas beneath the peaks of 6 mountains, each over 7,000 meters high. The mystical trail crosses nine passes, taking you by villages and nomad groups, and through forests of blue pine, juniper and rhododendron.

Plan Ahead

You cannot visit Bhutan on a whim as the government controls the number of travelers allowed into the country each year. Arrangements must be made through registered Bhutanese tour operators beforehand, and you have the choice of customizing your own trip or joining a pre-planned tour.

Each visitor is required to pay a fee of US $200 per day. This sounds steep, but it includes taxes, accommodations, meals, a licensed guide, camping equipment and haulage for treks. This fee applies across the board, whether or not you go trekking.

The easiest way to get to Bhutan is by air. Druk Air, the national airline, is the only carrier that serves Paro Airport, offering flights from Bangkok, Kathmandu, Delhi and several other South Asian cities.

There are plenty of online resources. For starters, check out Matador editor Tim Patterson’s excellent guide to, and impressions of, Bhutan.

Photo above by Graham King

The Tourism Council of Bhutan also provides handy information, including a list of tour operators (many of whom have their own websites), local news and events, approved treks, and the latest on travel regulations.

And finally, get a copy of seasoned trekker Bart Jordans’s Bhutan: A Trekker’s Guide , including insights on numerous trails, a comprehensive trek grading system, and information on trekking for families with children.

GOODS

From the subtle to the macabre (and the downright quirky), here are seven things to check out should you find yourself here on October 31, craving fright or fun.

1. Spirit Houses

Spirits are everywhere, and it is readily apparent that animist beliefs and superstitions color everyday life for Thais, a majority of whom are Buddhists.

Every home or building has a dollhouse-sized shrine on its premises, ranging in style from traditional Thai architecture and ornate kitsch to modern minimalism.

Regardless of form, the shrine serves as an altar for gifts to appease guardian spirits of the land. Aside from offerings of fruit and flowers, it is not uncommon to see figurines of people and animals, carbonated beverages, and model cars inside the shrine.

It’s widely known that accidents or bad luck afflict those who fail to acknowledge the rights of the supernatural beings who rightfully dwell on the grounds.

Photo by zoonabar

2. Fertility Shrine

Hidden on the manicured grounds of the Nai Lert Park Hotel (BTS: Chidlom Station) is the shrine of Chao Mae Tubtim, a female fertility spirit.

Piled with hundreds of phallic offerings, from realistic wooden carvings to stone sculptures that stand ten feet tall, this unusual display may make you snicker or blush.

Women seeking to conceive leave offerings of jasmine garlands or lotus buds, and if their wish is granted, return to place yet another phallus in gratitude.

Sexual imagery is not uncommon in Thailand. These particular phalluses or lingams originate from the Hindu god Shiva, and are commonly associated with protection and good luck.

3. Real-life Horrors

Lurid, gruesome, and horrible are words that best describe the exhibits at Siriraj Hospital’s Medical Museum.

A combination of six museums, including ones dedicated to anatomy and forensic science, the building houses organs with stab or bullet wounds, the intricate web of an extracted nervous system, and diseased body parts, including an elephantiasis-swollen testicle.

The Museum’s most sinister exhibit is the moldering corpse of Si-Oui, a notorious serial killer and cannibal from the 1950s. Hanging vertically in a glass case, his darkened, waxy, and naked body seems almost unreal.

Perhaps the most heart wrenching are the conjoined twins, stillborns, and infants with deformities. True to Thai spiritual beliefs, locals leave offerings of candies and tiny plastic toys for the babies.

To get here, take the Chao Phraya River Express Boat to Rot Fai (also called Bangkok Noi) Pier on the western side of the river.

Photo by 13bobby

4. Frightening Folklore

Sometimes lore becomes larger than life. In the case of Mae Nak, the fierce spirit of a devoted wife who died in childbirth gradually acquired the ability to reveal winning lottery numbers.

At Mahabut Temple (BTS: On Nut Station), devotees light candles, place garlands, and offer artifacts of daily life, including toys, diapers, and cosmetics, in front of a gold-encrusted statue of a mother holding a baby.

As they lie on the floor, Mae Nak eyes a flickering television, presumably watching her favorite program.

Nearby, others rub oil on the tree under which Mak Nak is buried, seeking winning numbers in the swirly patterns of the trunk. Not surprisingly, lottery ticket vendors and fortune tellers hover nearby.

5. Punishment-themed Park

Hell on earth, literally, is a 90-minute drive outside the city, towards the beach town of Bangsaen. In the gardens of Wang Saen Suk Monastery, garish sculptures of an emaciated male with a drooping tongue and a frightful female with a swollen belly and sagging breasts loom overhead, representing sinners.

Twenty or so life-sized figures join these unsavory characters. Each undergo some sort of punishment, including being sawn in half, smashed between giant clamps, and boiled in vats.

Make merit, in the form of a donation to the temple, for a better chance of avoiding such fates in the afterlife!

Photo by joeltelling

6. Revered Deity

The Erawan Shrine (BTS : Chidlom), with its four-faced Brahman idol, is a long favorite of Thais and foreigners, especially those from East Asian nations. The shrine was built in 1956 as part of the adjacent Erawan Hotel to correct construction site mishaps.

Today, heady incense thickens the air as worshippers exchange marigold garlands and small wooden elephants for the granting of wishes.

In 2006, a mentally ill man smashed the hollow statue and sadly, enraged bystanders subsequently beat him to death.

Many took this as a bad omen. Government critics charged that the destruction was a plot by embattled Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra to maintain power through black magic.

His response? “That’s insane.” (Thaksin’s currently in exile in Great Britain.)

7. Street Parties

Relating to spirits of another kind, Halloween has become another occasion for fun-loving Bangkokians to host boisterous celebrations.

Annual Halloween-themed parties take place in bars and clubs throughout central Bangkok. Silom Soi 4 (BTS: Sala Daeng), a gay-friendly area, throws a huge outdoor bash, with high-spirited revelry spilling out of its many bars, restaurants, and clubs.

Community Connection

Several Matador Community members recently got together for an evening out on the town in Chiang Mai – here’s Stu’s blog about the event, or Ross Borden’s post about the night the two Matador co-founders hit the town in Bangkok.

Matador members are making connections all around the world. Join the community today!

Feature photo by *Gabisa Motonia. Photo above by Zimmelino.

The island of Java is a living museum; no other place in Southeast Asia can claim such intimate convergence of cultures and beliefs.

Here are six sacred places in central Java that reflect Indonesia’s spiritual richness.

Photo by jajay.

Mighty Earth

The Indonesian archipelago is comprised of over 17,000 islands; most are volcanic in origin, comprising part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, a zone of geophysical volatility that stretches through Japan and Southeast Asia.

On Java, Gunung Merapi (“Mountain of Fire”) is the most temperamental. A thousand years ago, a particularly violent eruption decimated an entire Hindu kingdom. Merapi’s last eruption was in 2006, right before a deadly earthquake shook the nearby Sultanate of Yogyakarta.

The coincidence of both events was not lost on those who believe the volcano is home to ancient spirits that control the fortunes of the Javanese.

Thousands of people live on Merapi’s fertile flanks. Every year, the Sultan of Yogyakarta makes offerings to placate these spirits through a specially appointed mystic.

For the adventurous, it is possible to ascend the mountain to view the glowing lava flow up close.

Several companies offer day trips and multi-day treks, starting from the resort town of Kaliurang on the southern slope or the quiet village of Selo on the northern side. You can also hire your own guide from either of these bases.

The Dieng Plateau is another geological wonder. A caldera, the site consists of crumbling 7th century Hindu temples on marshy, steaming terrain. The landscape is hauntingly beautiful. Framed by terraced fields, mist glides off boiling springs and sulphur-colored lakes. At 6,500 feet above sea level, the air is cool, making this a great respite from the midday heat.

Another group of ancient temples, Gedung Songo offers solitude in equally impressive surroundings. The ruins are situated among hiking trails, camp sites, and hot springs open to bathers, with views of cloud-capped mountains and volcanoes.

Cosmic Balance

Photo by *Gabisa Motonia.

Borobudur, a massive 1,200-year old Buddhist monument, is the most frequented site in Java but it’s well worth the trip.

Most likely built by early propagators of Buddhism, the reconstructed structure is a mandala consisting of nine tiers, crowned by a huge pagoda.

Both pilgrims and tourists make the clockwise hike to the top, a meditative exercise that represents the timeless journey of man.

Avoid the tour buses by arriving early. An additional fee gets you a pocket flashlight and entrance into the grounds at 5 AM, an hour before the site officially opens.

The pre-dawn hour contributes to Borobudur’s mystique. First light breaks dramatically, revealing dozens of latticed, bell-shaped stupas, life-sized images of Buddha, and bucolic surroundings shrouded in mist.

In the distance, Merapi emerges, tinged with the fiery light of the rising sun. The crowing of village roosters pierces the silence, yet serenity remains.

Glorious Past

Constructed during the 9th century, Prambanan is a sprawling complex of over 200 temples and shrines. Its main square houses eight reconstructed temples with soaring steeples and intricate carvings.

Dedicated to Shiva, the main edifice is flanked by smaller temples of Vishnu and Brahma. Most temple groupings are within walking or biking distance. More distant structures can be reached by horse cart.

Several buildings sustained significant damage during the 2006 earthquake. Fallen pinnacles and cracked stones are strewn about, awaiting restoration, and extensive scaffolding envelops some of the main structures.

To escape crowds and vendors, head to nearby Ratu Boko, an archaeological site on a breezy plateau. There isn’t much left of this former palace, but if you look beyond the goats grazing among the foundation stones, you can envision the grandeur that once stood on these peaceful highlands.

Photo by syukaery.

Where to Begin

Yogyakarta (simply called “Jogh-jah”) is a good base from which to explore central Java, as most of the above sites are easy day or half-day trips.

The city is served by daily flights from Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, and Denpasar on both low-cost and national carriers. Check online for passengers’ takes on Asian airlines; note that Indonesian carriers have not had the best safety records in recent years.

Other options are to take the train from Jakarta’s Gambir Station, an 8-hour ride, or to charter a vehicle with a driver.

Community Connection!

Matador member Pras is a 26 year old Indonesian man originally from Yogyakarta. Pras hopes to become a foreign service officer.

Photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

From the lonely shores of Changlang Beach on the Thai mainland, the view is of a calm sea dotted with craggy, verdant isles. As the sun sets, the receding tide barely laps the shell-studded sands while locals wade in placid waters, trailing fishing nets.

It’s a wonderfully languid scene, epitomizing the perennial laid-back vibe of this province way down on the western coast of Thailand

Tranquil Trang

Trang (pronounced ‘Dtrang’ with a hard consonant) encompasses an area with a 120-mile coastline as well as 47 islands stretching from the lower Andaman Sea to the Straits of Malacca.

The provincial capital of Trang was once a bustling port, attracting Fukien Chinese settlers at the turn of the 20th century.

Although the town moved thirty miles inland due to flooding, it retains charming outside influences in its architecture, temples, and food; the latter includes a unique breakfast consisting of strong coffee (‘kopii’) laced with condensed milk, dim sum, and hot soymilk.

Unlike nearby Phuket or Krabi, Trang has been spared from rampant development, thanks to a vibrant local economy not dependent on tourism.

Trang will probably remain pristine, given that two thirds of the province, replete with lushly forested hills, white sand beaches, limestone caves, and waterfalls, has been designated as national parkland.

Trang sustained relatively little damage from the 2004 tsunami, although on Muk and Libong islands, tidal waves destroyed fishing boats and homes.

Today, the only readily visible indications of the devastating event are tsunami escape route signs posted throughout coastal areas.

The islands beckon during the sultry month of April, especially if your idea of paradise includes getting back to basics. The Changlang beachfront has no vendors, Internet cafes, and fast foods joints, and the islands hold promise of even more blissfully simplistic surroundings.

Island Idyll

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

You could spend months exploring all the islands of Trang. But for starters, there are five larger ones off the coast that are regularly serviced by ferries from the mainland: Muk, Kradan, and Hai in the north, and Libong and Sukorn in the south. For easy island hopping, hire your own long-tail boat with an operator/guide.

Ko Muk

Ko Muk is the most well known, not because of its sun-drenched beaches or Muslim fishing village, but because of an intriguing natural formation located on the uninhabited side of the island.

Called the Emerald Cave (‘Tham Morakot’), its name becomes obvious once you swim through a concealed tunnel that breaks into a green lagoon fringed by white sand and contained by tall limestone cliffs framing a patch of sky.

The cave is only accessible during low tide, and a guide will be especially handy as you may bobble for 260 feet in pitch darkness, depending on when you go. Plan carefully; otherwise, you may be stuck inside until the tide goes down.

Ko Kradan

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

Ko Kradan holds the Guinness Book of World Record for the largest underwater wedding, where couples (and diving enthusiasts) exchange vows and sign marriage certificates under the sea every Valentine’s Day.

Aside from this quirky, fun-loving extravaganza, Ko Kradan boasts some of the best snorkeling spots in the deep azure waters off its cliffs.

Schools of brilliant fish weave around pink sea fan and rounded brain coral, and other multicolored sea life.

Ko Libong

Nature lovers will enjoy Ko Libong, Trang’s largest island and sanctuary to a variety of local and migratory birds. It is also home of the dugong, or manatee, that feed off of the island’s sea grass beds. The timid mammal is now endangered, and sightings are extremely rare.

Ko Sukorn, Ko Hai, and the uninhabited isles in between are less frequented, but offer hidden reefs and quiet spots for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking.

Island Living

Accommodations are readily available on Muk, Kradan, Hai, Libong, and Sukorn islands, ranging from spartan to more kitted-out bungalows. Mid-range to luxury hotels can be found on the mainland. Check sites such as www.hotelthailand.net for an extensive listing of places to stay.

While there is no bad time to visit, the drier months from December to April are considered the high season, reflected in higher hotel rates and visitor numbers. If you’re on a budget (or slightly misanthropic), go during the monsoon season from May to October. Sunshine is still aplenty, and short bursts of rain offer relief from the heat.

While food choices are an eclectic mix of Thai, Chinese, Muslim, and international fare, there is not a wide range of dining venues. At hotels, food and drink prices tend to be on the high side, compared to the mainland. However, the seafood cannot be fresher, and you can usually grill the catch of the day to your own liking.

You can also visit the many Muslim fishing villages in the area for inexpensive meals and possible accommodations.

There isn’t much in terms of nightlife outside of open-air resort bars and the occasional impromptu beach party. Expect mellow evenings spent sipping beer while watching karaoke or bonding with fellow travelers.

Getting There

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

Nok Air, the low-cost affiliate of Thai Airways, flies directly from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Trang every day. Weekday fares are cheaper (starting from $60 one way, 80-minutes) and bookings can be made online.

Two “express” trains leave Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Station every evening. Second class sleeper fare starts at $17 and the 540-mile journey takes 15 hours. Click here for train information.

Buses also depart regularly from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal on Pinklao-Nakorn Chaisi Road. Click here for bus information.

Once you’re in Trang, get on a taxi or ‘song thaew,’ a pickup fitted with narrow wooden benches and tin roof, bound for one of the piers (if you’ve opted for train travel, you’ll already be near Kantang pier).

Certain piers are much closer to some island groups: Pakmeng, Chaomai, and Kuantunku piers are north, nearer to Ko Muk and surrounding isles; Kantang and Taseh piers are south, closer to Ko Libong and Ko Sukorn.

Ferries depart regularly and a one-way ticket costs from $4 to $10, depending on your destination. If traveling in a group, it may be just as cost-effective (and faster) to charter your own long-tail boat at the pier.

Alternately, you can get to the mainland or islands from Phuket, Krabi, Ko Lanta, and other nearby provinces. Check with local travel agents for options.

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are backpacking in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

The awesome SE Asia travel website TravelFish has a solid Trang travel guide.

Justin88 is traveling in South East Asia until he runs out of money, currently bound for Malaysia. Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.