Photo: chris runoff

Culinary America

A land of immigrants, Americans learned long ago that the best way to stay in touch with the mother culture — long after the language fell away — was through cooking. This nostalgia and passion are as much a part of traditional recipes as their ingredients.

In addition to using food to remember where we came from, we also use it to express where we want to go. American cuisine is one of diverse experimentation. Here are some favorites:

1. The San Francisco Bay Area is America’s culinary king. From Half Moon Bay to San Francisco and Berkeley to Sonoma and Napa and Marin Counties, this region leads in food and wine that’s locally and organically grown and artistically prepared.

Photo: hillary h

2. For the best traditional cuisine mixed with riotous innovation, New Orleans is the place. This southern city flawlessly combines tradition with experimentation, and its people continue to define the joy of cooking, eating, and sharing a table.

3. Chicago, with its incredibly diverse population — from Eastern and Central Europe, to the circum-Mediterranean, to Latin America, to East Asia — is a foodie heaven.

Here’s a city where you can find the best of the most unknown cuisines, such as a Serbian restaurant serving up traditional dishes that would pass muster back home.

4. Philadelphia is as rich in American food and drink as it is in American history, especially considering its rise in recent years as a major restaurant town.

Freshly feeding this trend is the hinterland of farms, forests, and fields in both Pennsylvania and New Jersey, the presence of European-styled daily markets like the Reading Terminal and Italian Markets, and the growth of urban community gardens.

Philadelphia’s City Tavern served our founding fathers, and it can do the same for you. It’s still as exciting, broad, and spicy as it was in the 18th century, when far-flung ingredients were constantly coming through the city’s active international port on the Delaware River.

Sacred America

In addition to human-built spiritual facilities, some of America’s most sacred sites are found in its varied and vast natural spaces. A handy list of such places is available at Places of Peace and Power. Standouts include:

Photo: R. Doyle Bowman

1. Canyon de Chelly in northeastern Arizona is among the longest continuously inhabited places in North America, to this day managed by the Navajo Nation in collaboration with the National Park Service.

Canyon de Chelly is not only a national monument but also home to a Navajo community.

2. In 1872, Lakota shaman Black Elk identified the center of the universe in the Black Hills of the Dakotas — Okawita Paha, otherwise known as Harney Peak. His Great Vision preserved for us the awareness that this place as an immensely important sacred spot in North America.

While much has changed in the region since then, Harney Peak and the Black Hills continue to possess the power to arrest us, to take us out of our ordinary selves, and to enable us to see our interconnectedness to each other and all life.

3. The Vedanta Temple in Montecito, California, occupies a strong, authentic sacred landscape in the mountains east of Santa Barbara. Throughout the years, the temple has maintained its peaceful atmosphere of meditation and spiritual practice, welcoming all.

Photo: SF Brit

4. Grace Cathedral in San Francisco has an open, spiritually oriented attitude, plus the appeal of an indoor-outdoor labyrinth based on that of France’s Chartres Cathedral.

It’s a terrific setting for a walking meditation, and visitors are respectful of each others’ desire for inner work and silence. More information is available on their website.

Romantic America

Again, from can’t-look-away natural scenery to human-made getaways, America offers countless opportunities for hand-in-hand exploration.

1. Strolling Philadelphia’s expansive colonial neighborhood is like walking in old America and old Europe simultaneously. Filled with over three centuries of history — a marvel of antiquity for most American cities — Old City Philadelphia is full of gardens, walking paths, cobbled streets, old cemeteries, and great cafes and taverns.

2. Driving California’s Highway 1 from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz, you’ll pass through one of North America’s most romantic natural landscapes.

This unique coastal expanse possesses wild vistas and nature parks, intimate towns and beach coves, all along a route where adventure is just around the bend.

3. The French Quarter of New Orleans will always hang onto that worn, Old World romance no matter what comes its way.

Photo: specialkrb

From its colorful ambiance, to its great food and ale, to a sense of community connectedness, this is a great place to go with the one you love, or perhaps to find him or her during an authentic blues set in one of many small, local joints.

4. Another excellent romantic mini-roadtrip runs between the Hudson River Valley of New York and the Berkshires of western Massachusetts. The pace of life here is utterly different than that in the cities just hours away.

From the road you’ll get vistas of mountains, forests, and rivers, while there are plenty of opportunities to stop and savor good local food, go for a romantic hike, and enjoy theater and live music in old-fashioned, small-scale venues.

Community Connection

If you like the Eat, Pray, Love concept, you’ll want to check out Beebe’s guides to Morocco, Portugal, and Spain.

Have your own favorite spot for a culinary, spiritual, or romantic getaway in the U.S.? Share it with Trips readers in the comments.

Photo: Larsz / Feature photo: Mike Willis

1. Spearfish Canyon National Scenic Byway

This is a fantastic drive in any season, where you’ll find granite walls specked with Black Hills spruce and aspen, tumbling waterfalls, and rolling creeks cascading over rocky beds.

The hike to Roughlock Falls is the perfect way to connect with nature. In the fall months the reds, oranges, and yellows of the trees, combined with the deep canyon walls and surging falls, provide plenty of visual and aural stimulation.

Photo: allygirl520

2. Deadwood

This restored gold-mining town is a national historic landmark, with architecture dating from the late nineteenth century. Gambling is legal here, so if you enjoy the slots, or just like bantering with witty bartenders, head to one of the numerous casinos.

If history is what you’re after, Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane are buried at the Mount Moriah Cemetery. The Adam’s House Museum provides an educational perspective on Deadwood and the Black Hills.

There are also some great events in town. My favorite, the Deadwood Jam in mid-September, is an eclectic music festival showcasing blues, country, rock ‘n’ roll, and reggae. You can line up lawn chairs at the outdoor venue, crack open some drinks, and enjoy the local company.

3. Mount Rushmore

Visiting Mount Rushmore renews my patriotic spirit no matter how many times I’ve seen it. National pride swells as your eyes wander over the 60ft carvings by Gutzon Borglum and his 400 helpers. The nightly lighting ceremony, accompanied by patriotic music, is a reminder to be thankful for the privileges we enjoy as Americans.

4. Keystone

Two miles from Mount Rushmore, Keystone is an entertaining stop. Dip into the shops and restaurants, fly down the alpine slide, or watch a wood carver transform a tree stump into a proud bald eagle or bulky bison. You can also ride a tram, pan for gold, relax on the verandas, and visit the Presidential Wax Museum.

Big Time Pizza in the Roosevelt Inn has the best pies in the region. Ask for my favorite, the Super Supreme.

5. Hill City

This hospitable town has a quaint Main Street lined with art galleries and shops full of gifts and antiques. Hill City is also home to the 1880 steam train, which winds it’s way from here to Keystone.

Near Rapid City — the gateway to the Black Hills — visit the Circle B Ranch for an authentic western experience. Eat a proper cowboy meal, bob your head to twangy country music, watch a gun fight, and go horseback riding. The Flying T Chuckwagon Supper & Show or the Fort Hays Chuckwagon Supper & Show can also satisfy the little cowboy in you.

6. Crazy Horse Memorial

My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes, also.

- Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear to Korczak Ziolkowski

Photo: Jennifer L. Sovanski

These words set in motion the building of the Crazy Horse Memorial, 17 miles from Mount Rushmore. The head alone is planned to exceed the size of the presidents’ heads by over 20 feet.

Although Mr. Ziolkowski was twice offered $10 million from the U.S. government to fund the project, he declined it on the principle that his broader educational vision would be compromised by federal involvement.

Mr. Ziolkowski died in 1982 but his wife, Ruth, and most of their 10 children have continued the work.

7. Harney Peak

Hiking to the top of Harney Peak — the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains at 7,244 feet — is well worth the sweat. On my first attempt I was unable to make it to the top, despite encouragement from hikers coming down.

However, I vowed to make it the next time — and I did. On a clear day, you have panoramic views of South Dakota, Wyoming, Nebraska, North Dakota, and Montana from the fire lookout tower.

On the way down, this time it was I who encouraged others to keep going.

8. Needles Highway

Located in Custer State Park, the Needles Highway is a road worth traveling for views of the 20-40ft granite spires reaching to the sky, backdropped by thick forest. Drive carefully — the single-lane tunnel is a little harrowing.

9. Caves

There are eight caves to tour in the Black Hills, two being part of national parks and six owned privately. Inside one of the largest cave systems in the world, you can expect to see unique calcite crystals, arranged in a honeycomb-like pattern, embedded in the limestone walls.

As the temperatures in the caves stay consistently in the 50s F, they’re great for cooling off when it’s too hot up top.

Photo: IndigoValley

10. Custer State Park

At 71,000 acres, Custer State Park is a great place for wildlife viewing. You can spot hordes of buffalo grazing on the green grass from Wildlife Loop Road.

Every time I see them, I’m amazed by their size and presence and am reminded of their connection to the Lakota Nation, who relied on buffalo for survival.

I giggle at the wild burros in the park, who stick their snouts into car windows looking for food. Mountain goats, antelope, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, and wild turkeys are other animals you might be able to glimpse during a visit.

Looking for some relaxation? The lakes here are the perfect prescription for stress. Swim or fish, or simply wade around for some therapeutic calming.

More information

Make sure you visit the South Dakota Tourism website for more on the area’s history, events, and things to do.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re looking for more great itineraries and ideas in the States, check out Gateway to Pristine America: 12 Towns on the Edge of Spectacular Wilderness and Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides.

Why not save some money while you’re at it? Have a read of 8 Ways to Save Money on a U.S. Cross-Country Road Trip.

Photo: accent on eclectic

If you’re interested in traveling to the Middle East but aren’t sure where to begin, be like the Pope: kick-start your trip through the holy land in Jordan. With its welcoming people, small size and manageable number of sacred sites, Jordan is the place to go biblical.

Mt. Nebo

Start at piney Mt. Nebo, where Moses first beheld the Promised Land of the Canaanites. In the valley below, Jerusalem’s golden dome (the Temple of the Rock) and the salty white shores of the Dead Sea glisten in the sun like the North Star did for the Three Magi.

Photo: upyernoz

If you listen carefully, you can almost hear the babbling brooks of milk and honey, the tumbling of the walls in neighboring Jericho, and the history echoing through the quilted valley below (Deuteronomy 32:49-50).

Bethany beyond the Jordan

Down by the banks of the muddy Jordan River lies Bethany beyond the Jordan. Amidst the wispy tamarisk, willow, and poplars trees, Jesus was baptized here in this once mighty river by his closest friend and companion, John the Baptist (Matthew 3:13). If you R.S.V.P. and B.Y.O. Priest you can be baptized here too.

John the Baptist loses his head

Photo: laura padgett

Heading south, you’ll soon be rewarded with breathtaking views of the crystalline waters from the lowest point on earth: the Dead Sea. From its sodium-encrusted shoreline, the windswept hills undulate towards the heavens.

Between heaven and hell, at the sleepy shepherd’s village of Mukawir, Herod the Great’s castle ruins perch precariously atop a 700m hillock.

This is where Herod Antipas, Herod the Great’s successor, had the head of John the Baptist served up on a silver platter at the request of the legendary seductress Salome, his niece and step-daughter (Matthew 14:9-12).

Sodom & Gomorrah

The further south you go, the more scandalous the stories become. Towards the Nabataean ruins of Petra, not far from the village of Safi, you’ll find Lot’s Cave. Lot and his two daughters took refuge here from the fire and brimstone that destroyed the original sin cities of Sodom and Gomorrah.

While no remains of Lot or his daughters were ever found, not far from the cave stands a pillar of salt that many believe to be what’s left of Lot’s wife. By disobeying the warnings of the angels to not look back at the razing of her beloved twin cities she was sodium-ized for all eternity (Genesis 19:30).

Photo: shioshvili

The cooler, older brother of Moses

Within hiking distance from Petra, amidst the iron-stained sandstone of Wadi Musa (the well of Moses) is Jebel Haroun. On top of this mount — revered by Muslims and Christians alike — is the tomb of Aaron, Moses’ cooler, older brother.

Pay homage here to the man described in the book of Exodus, and later popularized in church camp songs, as the one who dared to say “Pharaoh, pharaoh, hey-ho, let my people go…”

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For even more advice on where to head if you find yourself in the region, make sure you read 6 Under-the-Radar Destinations in the Middle East.

If you’d like a peek at a Matador member’s experiences traveling in the area, Middle East Travel: By the Numbers should put a smile on your face.

Photo above and feature photo: Gret@Lorenz

Tasty Cuisine

Rabat and Fez are the best places for serious culinary explorations. While Rabat is the most modern and comfortable Moroccan city, Fez is traditional and fascinating. Both offer perfect moods for culinary adventures and both have attracted some of the best chefs in the country.

Some might argue that Marrakech is also a great culinary destination — and I wouldn’t disagree — but what’s happening in Rabat and Fez goes beyond catering to tourists and is directed at locals as well.

Here are some unique Moroccan culinary experiences worth seeking out:

White truffles

Photo: Gret@Lorenz

You can find these for sale along the road from Rabat to Meknes.

Artfully stacked on overturned buckets, they’re sold near oak trees growing in a special soil that stimulates the symbiotic relationship between the truffle and the oak roots.

Argan oil

A specialty of Morocco. It’s a toasty, nutty oil, traditionally derived from a complex process: the undigested pits of the Argan fruit, after being eaten by tree-climbing goats, are picked from the animals’ dung, then cleaned and toasted.

Next, the pits are ground or pressed and the oil is bottled for culinary uses or further processed for cosmetic creams and ointments.

But worry not, today the oil is produced in a more sanitary way. Its taste is a cross between peanut oil and freshly mashed green olives — an absolutely delicious way to dress a salad.

Saffron

Taliouine — south of Marrakech — offers a unique twist to the more commonly available Spanish and Iranian saffrons. The saffron of Taliouine has its own flavor due to southern Morocco’s soil makeup.

Wine

The Meknes Valley yields the finest Moroccan wine, which has come a long way. While wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times, in the past twenty years the industry has begun to make certain vintages that wine lovers the world over would gladly add to their cellars.

Photo: dominikgolenia

A particular favorite of mine is Château Roslane Premier Cru from A.O.C. Les Coteaux de l’Atlas.

Escargot

Steamed and ladled cups of brothy escargot are a fun snack that you will most likely see on the street at night.

People gather around the snail seller’s cart and sip and nibble on these hot little striped-shell delicacies.

Sacred Experiences

The biggest challenge to travel in Morocco is that non-Muslim visitors are not allowed into mosques and shrines, with the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca being the exception.

Yet, the natural beauty of Morocco more than makes up for this and possesses what my Moroccan friend Saadia would call “the Big Waloo” — the Big Nothing — as in total, pure divine presence.

From ocean vista to mountain pass to the Big Waloo of the rosy-orange desert dunes of the south, the natural world’s sacred is open to all. You can take your pick following your own preferences.

For ocean-lovers, explore the Atlantic coast from Asilah to Essaouira.

Photo: Rosino

If you’re into mountains, anywhere in the interior — from north to south — gives way to great views whose only sign of human habitation comes from the shepherds and their brown-faced sheep, black goats, and sturdy donkeys.

Those who hear the desert’s call should head south to Merzouga and ride on a camel trek into the dunes.

For a rare chance at experiencing Moroccan sacred traditions as a local, come to Fez in June and July for The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when sacred spaces otherwise closed to visitors open their doors throughout the city.

Another similar music festival unfolds annually in Essaouira in June: The Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

Romantic Locales

Asilah and Essaouira command a romantic air, with their oceanside settings and well-established art scenes. These are also two cities with an open, international mood that makes them relaxing.

Asilah is smaller and a bit more intimate, while Essaouira has more expansive possibilities. Both have the dramatic backdrop of fortified old towns against the great watery blue of the Atlantic.

Rabat is Morocco’s most mellow and cosmopolitan city, one that invites visitor interaction with the locals. Numerous cafes offer comfortable places for men and women to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee.

Photo: Vibragiel

Seaside Rabat’s medieval neighborhood, the walled medina, is a welcoming place to walk, shop, and talk to artisans carving or painting wood or working silver and gold.

Finally, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital of this part of Africa (and known in Arabic as Walili), is worth a mention.

Its romantic appeal lies in the beautiful Meknes Valley that surrounds it, and in the ancient stones and mosaics of the old city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Other guides in the Eat, Pray, Love series can be found on Portugal and Spain.

Three more articles that will satiate your food, spirit, and love needs are The World’s Best Cities for Late Night Food, How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World, and The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France.

Photo: SilentObserver

Whistler Mountain in British Columbia, Canada was named after the whistling sounds made by the marmots who inhabit its slopes. They use this call to warn their fellow brethren of impending danger.

Originally called London Mountain due to the regularly occurring fog and rain, the moniker was changed in 1965 as a promotion to attract more visitors. Good call.

If you’re keen to see these cute, furry animals, visit in the summer and take a walk on one of the numerous hiking trails. You’re bound to spot some marmots darting over the rocks and, if you listen carefully enough, you might just hear how Whistler got its name.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Marmots not turning your crank? How about Black Bears? For a chance to see these and other wildlife in Whistler, take an eco-tour.

Top 5 Places to Eat

Every region and city in Spain has a culinary specialty, but some cities have a culinary life that strives to keep exploring and having fun in the kitchen. These places are:

• 1. Barcelona
• 2. San Sebastian
• 3. Bilbao
• 4. Madrid
• 5. Santiago de Compostela

I suggest you fully explore one city’s culinary gems, then venture out. If in Barcelona, consider journeying north to Girona and Besalu, a neighboring city and small town, each with great Catalan cuisine.

After exploring Santiago de Compostela’s seafood, take a trip to the Rias Baixas, the western coast, and enjoy Finisterre, Noya, and Porto do Son.

A market in Barcelona

Also, if you really want to get off the main tourist path, I suggest heading to Rioja and exploring the culinary wine pairings in Logroño, Haro, and Laguardia, all in the heart of incredible wine country.

Top 5 Places to Pray

Spirituality is an intimate and personal experience, but here I have striven to offer ‘universal’ places, regardless of denomination (or preference to be non-denominational).

This has been the criterion I applied in researching my book, The Spiritual Traveler Spain: The Guide to Sacred Sites and Pilgrim Routes (HiddenSpring/Paulist Press, March 2009). In this spirit, I strongly recommend:

Destinations

Community Connection to Spain

The Camino de Santiago

Even if you walk only a portion of the over 500 kilometer + road across the north of Spain, the act of walking has a profound effect upon the spirit.

Another aspect of the Camino is the string of beautifully carved Romanesque churches that line the road in both France and Spain.

The builders of the Romanesque weren’t afraid to look straight on at the nature of being human; their carvings depict the mix of human expression, from our donkey nature to our divine. Check out this great audio guide to the Camino.

Santo Domingo de Silos

Spend a weekend at south of Burgos, taking in the chanted prayer of the monks six times a day. Check out the Yecla gorge where vultures fly along the steep rocks.

Montserrat Monastery

Sierra de Mariola

A hike around the Sierra de Mariola mountains and their aromatic full of medicinal plants (please do not pick). The best access point is from the village of Bocairent, northwest of Alcoy in the province of Valencia.

Toledo, Córdoba, and Granada

Make a triangle and visit Toledo, Córdoba, and Granada for the beauty of each city and their religious heritage of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Take time to let your spirit feel the spaces in the old mosque, Cristo de la Luz, and old synagogue, Santa María la Blanca, in Toledo, the mosque-cathedral in Córdoba, and the Alhambra in Granada.

La Vera Cruz

Take a path away from the hubbub of Segovia and walk outside the old walls to the church of La Vera Cruz, a beautiful round church on a hillside surrounded with wildflowers and grazing sheep. Although only walking distance from Segovia, it is wild and remote and conducive to meditation.

Downhill is a convent that also serves as the final resting place for the Catholic mystic, St. John of the Cross.

Top 5 Places to Love

The Alhambra in Granada

This place is both a spiritually uplifting and a great spot either to walk with your sweetheart or sit on your own in one of the gardens and write in your journal.

Santiago de Compostela

The northwestern pilgrim’s city of Santiago de Compostela has some of the most romantic streets: multicolored granite buildings and footpaths, rain that comes and goes creating a misty wrap about the green city, and the live music of a lone violin or guitar or ocarina echoing against the stones.

Walking the Camino in Galicia

Seville

Take a moonlit walk or boat paddle along the Guadalquivir River in Seville in spring when the orange blossoms are in bloom.

Oviedo

Try the open air market and flea market on a Sunday morning in Oviedo, stopping for coffee in one of many cafes around the covered market area.

Montserrat

Montserrat mountain is both sacred and romantic, with toothy peaks jutting up from the surrounding plains inland from Barcelona.

Though a major Catholic shrine dedicated to the Black Madonna of Montserrat, this ethereal setting has been the romantic and sacred focus of pre-Christians as well, including a very likely place where Venus was once honored (and some argue, that she still is honored in her form as the Mother of God).

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For a Spanish experience that’s neither romantic nor spiritual (at least not in the peaceful sense of the word!), consider Running with the Bulls in Pamplona. And for the romantics out there, Spain also made our list of the World’s Best Spots for a Same-Sex Wedding. If you do choose to walk a portion of the Santiago de Compostela Camino, be sure to listen to our audio guide here.

1. Berlin, Germany

Photo: Roman Lashkin

Berlin: bullet-ridden buildings and graffiti adorned subways.

2. Tallinn, Estonia

Photo: chillihead

Tallinn: fairy tale city with crazy party scene.

3. Hồ Chí Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam

Photo: mknobil

Hồ Chí Minh City: French colonial buildings, traditional Asian temples, and a cosmopolitan nightlife, flying through chaotic streets by motorbike (xe om) and exploring old world monuments, sidewalk cafes, and rows of silk, spice, and medicinal markets.

4. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Photo: Marcelomdrs

Rio: Carnaval, Samba, footbal.

5. Australia

Photo: Corey Leopold

Australia: catching the sunrise at Ayers Rock. Diving at the Great Barrier Reef.

6. Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia, Canada

Photo: Rick McCharles

7. Big Sur, California, USA

Photo: Doug Letterman

8. Koh Chang, Thailand

Photo: v a i r o j

Escape the crowds of Phuket and head over to Koh Chang’s empty beaches.

9. Santorini, Greece

Photo: Wolfgang Staudt

Santorini: seaside cliffs, black sand beaches, and blue-and-white houses on the caldera’s edge.

10. Morocco

Photo: bachmont

Morocco: exotic treats in the Djemaa el-Fna market in Marrakech, getting lost in the twists and turns of the streets of Fes el-bali, surfing Essaouira.

11. Kerala, India

Photo: albany tim

Kerala: floating down the labyrinth of Kerala’s backwaters on a kettuvallom (a thatched-bamboo cargo boat), gliding by coconut trees and seaside villages.

12. Andalucia, Spain

Photo: jmsuarez

Andalucia: flamenco, bullfighting (ok, not so romantic), the royal Islamic architecture in the Alhambra.

13. Moscow, Russia

Photo: AlphaTangoBravo / Adam Baker

Moscow, Russia: land of intrigue, vodka, and Doctor Zhivago, the gilded minarets of St. Basil Cathedral and the lantern-lined streets of Old Arabat.

Feature photo and photo above courtesy of Samantha Brown.

With 10 years of travel experience, Samantha Brown is no stranger to overnight stays. Here are her five top hotel choices, from the lavish to economic. She also gives us tips on how to find a great hotel in the midst of a not-so-great economy.

1. Sunset Key Guest Cottages, Key West, FL

“It’s where I spent my honeymoon.”

Located on a luxury island 500 yards from Key West, Florida, the Sunset Key Guest Cottages offer patrons individual bungalows endowed with front porches and rocking chairs. Every morning warm muffins and freshly squeezed orange juice are left on the porch in a picnic basket for guests to enjoy over ocean views.

Rates start at $500 and climb depending on how high guests want to take their levels of luxury.

2.The Library Hotel, New York City, NY

Touted as Manhattan’s most celebrated luxury concept hotel, The Library Hotel defines modern elegance and extravagance. Rooms are filled with books on myriad subjects. From architecture to biographies, even to erotic literature, each floor is dedicated to one of the ten major categories of the Dewey Decimal System.

Around $375 lands guests complimentary breakfasts, including espresso and cappuccino, a wine and cheese reception, and in-room access to the top 100 films from the American Film Institute. On the penthouse floor, The Library Hotel offers a poetry garden and writer’s den.

Photo by drewsaunders.

3. The Pod Hotel, New York City, NY

“Create more space by holding on to each other; you were going to do that anyway right?”

For young hipsters on a budget but unwilling to stay at Motel 6, the Pod Hotel is the perfect alternative. Established on 51st Street, the Pod Hotel offers a great location at an affordable $79-99 a night with cool features (mp3 docking stations, free WiFi, LCD TVs), and a dimmer lights.

4. Hotel San Jose, Austin, TX

This former motor lodge is now a very cool hotel with a desert Zen atmosphere. Sitting in one of Austin’s hippest neighborhoods, Hotel San Jose offers a great location on South Congress Street.

Right across the street is one of the best live music venues, The Continental, and Joe’s Coffee, which plays movies in the parking lot and live music on Sundays.

Not for quiet lovebirds, Hotel San Jose is tailored more for the party couple looking to love it up and live it up together. And with $100 rates for shared bathrooms on weekends, this hotel is definitely an affordable option.

Photo by Beard Papa.

5. Inn of the Five Graces, Santa Fe, NM

“This was one of the best beds I have ever slept in. And being on the road 240 days a year, let’s just say I’ve slept around.”

Ranging on the more expensive side, the Inn of the Five Graces averages $375 a night for an intensely romantic, mysterious, and exotic experience.

Guests feel like they have been transported by Aladdin’s magic carpet as rooms are decorated with beautiful textiles some would expect to find on the silk road. The slow, relaxed dripping water sounds of the courtyard fountains and the superbly comfortable beds make this establishment truly phenomenal.

Value added extras: free mini bar, breakfast, wine and cheese reception every evening. One of the rooms even has carving of the Kama Sutra on the headboard.

How to find the best hotel for your ever decreasing buck:

• Brown advises lovebirds to look for off-season destinations as one of the ways to help mitigate travel costs.”Right now it’s beaches, especially in the Northeast. Sure it’s cold, but you’ll have the place all to yourselves, which could be incredibly romantic.”
• Or as an alternative to traveling on the amorous holiday, Brown suggests couples create a personal version by reserving their celebratory weekend for another day: “Valentine’s Day weekend is one of the busiest in the hotel industry, so hotels are going to be able to charge whatever they want.

  “But if you hold off and go just one weekend later, the rates will be substantially lower. So give your sweetie your gift of a romantic weekend on Valentine’s day, but scheduled for another time. If they don’t appreciate it, then my advice would be to break up with that person; they are only going to get worse.”

• In the city, business hotels offer cheaper rates on the weekends (think Wall Street in NYC). “Take advantage of the road warriors going home.”
• Las Vegas and Orlando have cheaper rates during the week.
• Check out the destination’s Visitor’s Bureau website. “These sites really cater to people in search of deals.”
• BedandBreakfast.com: B&Bs are great, inexpensive options for the cozy couple just looking to get away from it all. “They are no longer like staying at an aunt’s house that smells of bad perfume and cats.”

Community Connection:

For more information on Samantha Brown, including her taping schedule, you can visit her page on the Travel Channel website.

Feature photo by Today is a good day. Photo above by iamhenry.

You don’t need to head to an expensive tropical island to have a good time with your new spouse. Go obscure. Impress and confuse your friends.

The current economic downturn dollar has actually opened up new opportunities for newlyweds looking to save some extra money for their wedding champagne budget. And services like Our Honeymoon Registry help other people fund your trip!

Photo by anna.andres.

1. Iceland

Iceland’s economic pain –a looming national default and the collapse of the currency and the national banking system– is your gain. Expect to find out-of-this-world deals in Iceland until the country gets back on its feet.

2. Turkey

Straddling Europe and the Middle East, this country was the melting pot of the late Middle Ages and Renaissance. It has mountains, forests, museums, lovely cities, world-class cuisine and luxurious hotel accommodations.

3. Lima, Peru

The weather is almost permanently overcast during the winter, but you’ll be hard pressed to find better restaurants. Think you’ve had ceviche? You haven’t had ceviche until you’ve been to Lima.

Photo by www.fotohuta.pl.

4. Krakow, Poland

Want a European fairy tale vacation without the high cost? Krakow survived World War II and the Soviet era mostly intact. Like Polish food? Visit some of the best restaurants in the former Eastern bloc.

5. Singapore

If you like glitzy nightlife vacations with a warm and moist climate, Singapore is an excellent destination. The food is an eclectic mix of Southeast Asian, Japanese and Chinese.

6. Mexico

The dollar still goes a long way in Mexico. Want to get local expert advice on where to go? Check out Matador’s Mexico page.

Photo by Kıvanç.

7. British Columbia, Canada

As long as you get out of Vancouver as quickly as possible, you can have an amazing time camping, biking or skiing in British Columbia. The forests are among the most beautiful in the world.

8. Budapest, Hungary

Budapest still has the flavor of old Byzantium. Stroll along the cobbled streets with your new spouse and admire the old architecture. Then bed down in a fantastic but inexpensive hotel.

9. Estonia

Estonia is one of the best kept secrets of Eastern Europe. This country has enjoyed considerable economic success in the past decade or two, but it has yet to be entirely discovered by the tourist hordes. The west coast on the Baltic Sea is particularly good to go.

Photo by shaindlin.

10. Greece

As long as you get past the relatively annoying flight or boat ride out of Athens, the wonders of the Greek islands start opening up.

11. Alice Springs, Australia

Are you an adventure-couple? Heading out to the Australian outback might be right up your alley. Visit Ayers Rock and explore the surrounding deserts. Watch out for wild dogs, horses, and scorpions.

12. Tanzania

Tanzania is one of the safest and most beautiful countries in East Africa. Brave the monsoon rains and go on safari, or consider hiking around Mt. Kilimanjaro.

13. Dominican Republic

Island vacation? Blue waters? Friendly locals? All for cheap? Yes, the Dominican Republic is for you, particularly if you’re looking for an all-inclusive resort vacation.

Photo by Space Ritual.

14. Arizona, United States

Heading on your honeymoon during the winter? Escape the cold in sunny and naturally beautiful Arizona.

15. European Tour

It’s not a particular country, but with the Euro tanking, flitting around Europe has become a fantastic honeymoon option once again. Travel by discount plane, like Ryanair, or by train.

16. Egypt

Egypt has beaches, warm weather, and some of the most stunning historical sites from the ancient world that you will find anywhere. There are no other countries like Egypt, and perhaps no other has been as radically altered through the ages by the sweep of the past.

Community Connection:

If you haven’t thought about your honeymoon yet because you still need help planning your destination wedding, check out managing editor Julie Schwietert Collazo’s article, The Ultimate Guide to Planning a Destination Wedding over at Brave New Traveler.

Want some more honeymoon destination options and planning tools? Check out The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Best Wedding & Honeymoon Destinations, Beyond Vegas: 25 Exotic Wedding and Elopement Destinations Around the World, or 101 Top Honeymoon Destinations: The Guide to Perfect Places for Passion (Little Black Books) (Little Black Book).

Are you married? Where did you go for your honeymoon? Share your favorite destination in the comments below!

Feature photo by oNico®. Photo above by oNico®.

“How are you affording Paris?” my mother, in her overly-motherly way, wanted to know.

“Well,” I said, with a twinge of desperation. “We’re not, really.”

My partner and I didn’t have a hotel booked and we didn’t know what we would do when we got to Paris, except avoid spending as many Euros as possible.

We packed solemnly, listening to a barrage of radio reports on the desolate state of the world economy and wondering how long we could avoid paying this month’s rent.

Photo by Bryce Edwards.

Youthful Fortune

By lucky, youthful fortune, a friend of ours turned out to have a crumbling apartment in the Latin Quarter that we could stay in, as long as we were out by the end of the weekend—he’d recently sold the place and new ownership was soon to take effect.

On our last evening, we were having a meal on the mattress–cheese, pâté, wine–when a girl came into the apartment to take away all of the furniture.

It was embarrassing—our friend had forgotten to tell us she would be coming, and had forgotten to tell her that we would be there—but in broken language we all apologized until we were weary of apologizing, and then helped her unhook the washing machine from the wall.

We slept without a mattress that night, sweating profusely in the late August heat, but it was okay, somehow—and it was free.

Photo by oNico®.

Slow down to appreciate the rich detail

Mostly we walked around the city, but because my partner had recently sprained his ankle, we had to take it easy, and most of our walks were slow, aimless strolls. It turns out that this was good for me.

I had only been to Paris only once before, a year previous, on my own. I was poor, then, too, but less so; more than that I was lonely, for Paris is a strange place to be without a companion.

To combat the loneliness, I walked the walk of someone with a purpose, although I had none. I walked from the Place de Republique to the Notre Dame, from where I followed the curve of the Seine to the Eiffel Tower; then I crossed the water and hiked up to the top of Montmartre, where I lingered only for a coffee before climbing back down the mountain.

My feet hurt, and I had seen more of Paris than most weekend tourists, but none of it meant anything.

This time, I was reading The Flaneur by Edmund White. A flâneur is a kind of loiterer, a watcher in the city—and Paris, White writes, “is a world meant to be seen by the walker alone, for only the pace of strolling can take in all the rich (if muted) detail.”

Photo by baraka27.

Hungry In Paris

White also reminded me that Ernest Hemingway, a onetime writing hero of mine, was hungry and poor in Paris, too. There is a passage in A Moveable Feast that I had forgotten until I read The Flâneur; it starts thus:

“You got very hungry when you did not eat enough in Paris because all the bakery shops had such good things in the windows and people ate outside at tables on the sidewalk so that you saw and smelled the food”.

Then Hemingway describes how he used to wind his way around the city avoiding all the places that made him hungry and tempted to spend money.

My partner and I ate meals out of supermarkets and bakeries. Our favorite dinner was in a park near the Louvre, facing a trio of naked statues, finishing our €2 red and gorging ourselves on fresh bread and soft cheese.

We determined not to be hungry by carrying chocolate in our bags, sucking bittersweet squares while we passed handsome couples posed over elegantly arranged plates at streetside cafés.

The Occasional Splurge

Occasionally, we splurged, but even our splurges seemed austere. On Montmartre, we found a cafe my partner had been at years ago, a quiet place in a quiet square were we were the only ones speaking English.

We each ordered the special, a huge salad with fresh lettuce and beetroots and meat and cheese, and shared half a bottle of crisp white wine. We watched a pair of leathery middle-aged men doze in the red-and-yellow striped deck chairs outside the sign: Le Botak Café.

Photo by Damien Roué.

In search of a private moment

Of that enviable creature, the flâneur, Edmund White writes:

“He (or she) is not a foreign tourist tracing down the Major Sights and ticking them off a list of standard wonders. He (or she) is…in search of a private moment, not a lesson, and whereas wonders can lead to edification, they are not likely to give the viewer gooseflesh. No, it is the private Proustian touchstone—the madeleine, the tilting paving stone—that the flâneur is tracking down.”

My partner and I sought no major sights, initially because we could not afford to, but eventually because we had found a greater pleasure in the intimate, a curious thrill in our ability to watch.

We drank café au lait facing the street so we could see all the people. Our biggest expense was coffee, not accommodation or food.

Once, for the sheer poetry of it, we had a kir at Sartre’s café, Café de Flore, across from the Brasserie Lipp where Hemingway eats one hungry afternoon in A Moveable Feast. Because the drinks were so expensive we sipped slowly, enjoying being able to rest our feet while other people walked on by.

The waiter brought us a plate of green olives and we sucked them from a toothpick and picked the pits out from our teeth. As we were sitting there a sudden horde of rollerbladers came sweeping down the street, flanked by police cars. Beside me a svelte black-haired woman read Elle and drank a €5 coke through a straw, tapping her high-heeled feet.

Photo by ralphunden.

The rich poverty of youth and idealism

The Paris we found in our state of poverty—which is not, I should add, any true or cruel poverty, but rather the relative poverty of youth, and of idealism—is perhaps a more powerful Paris than we could ever have discovered if, flush with cash, we stayed in a glittering hotel, wandered the halls of the Louvre, dined at cafés along the Champs-Élysées, kissed at the top of the Eiffel Tower.

As it happened, we kissed instead at the top of the Institut Du Monde Arabe, which boasts free entry and sweeping views of the Seine, of Notre Dame, of countless rooftops.

On our last evening in Paris, we went to the Caveau des Oubliettes, around the corner from our (now mattress-less) apartment, to hear some blues. There is no cover charge, only a requirement that you buy a drink, so over a few pints of beer, we listened to the frenzied jams of various swaying musicians until the wee hours, when, dizzy and grinning, we emerged onto the street like two people transformed.

Hemingway may have written about hunger, about the stern beauty of a city that he was mostly always poor and cold in. But also he writes this:

“We ate well and cheaply and drank well and cheaply and slept well and warm together and loved each other.”

That’s something–and a far nicer something, in fact, than being able to afford a fancy hotel with a mattress or to enter every museum or shop for souvenirs.

The touch of a single tile

It is as Walter Benjamin, quoted in Edmund White, writes:

“The flâneur is the creation of Paris…he would be happy to trade all his knowledge of artists’ quarters, birthplaces, and princely palaces for the scent of a single weathered threshold or the touch of a single tile—that which any old dog carries away”

It is only when we are stripped of resource—penniless, young, lacking a full understanding of the language of the place—that we finally have the courage to adopt this philosophy of travel.

It is when we have nothing but our own wits, and perhaps the company of an intimate acquaintance, that we finally lose the pressure we have felt for so long, as travelers, to see this, and do that—we destroy our to-do lists and pursue, instead, “the touch of a single tile”.

And what we find along the way is sacred.

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A Moveable Feast
The Flaneur

Photo above by judepics. Photo above by Emma and Michael’s Excellent Adventures.

Imagine doing yoga in the great outdoors, surrounded by some of Spain’s tallest mountains. Imagine clean, pine-scented Alpine air mingling with a sultry sea salt breeze infused with orange blossom each time you inhale.

This heady mix exists in Órgiva, 52 kilometers south of Granada, 29 kilometers north of the Mediterranean coast, and set deep in the Alpujarras mountains of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in southern Spain.

Photo by judepics.

Órgiva is a mountain town that, like its Alpine-Mediterranean air, mixes traditional Andalusian and New Age international cultures. The blend is like green tea and mint, olives and sherry, churros and chocolate.

Best of all, Órgiva is home to one of the most earthy and beautifully offered yoga retreats I’ve encountered in my travels, Yoga Under the Sky.

In the heart of such a diverse, New Age, and organic farming scene and town, Yoga Under the Sky is in the perfect setting to offer organized or tailor-made retreat options for one person, couples, or groups.

Set near the Chico River that flows through town, Yoga Under the Sky offers many modalities of yoga styles and a terrific roster of talented, compassionate, and certified yoga teachers and massage therapists.

You can contact Yoga Under the Sky to arrange for an organized retreat (such retreats are on their website) or to create a retreat of your own that will address your and your partner’s particular needs. The staff also suggest great lodging and dining options.

Essentially, Órgiva is the retreat setting and within it are several rural and village houses for week-long stays as well as several all organic, local produce, and regional wine-serving eateries. The town has a vibrant energy and there is a lot happening any day of the week throughout the year.

Photo by diluvi.

Lodging

My favorite place to stay is Casa Rural Jazmin. Though “casa rural” means “rural house,” it is a lovely old stone farmhouse in town that is surrounded by a garden filled with fruit-bearing trees, such as pomegranate and lemon, and a refreshing swimming pool.

Casa Jazmin has four rooms, each with a private bath. The two proprietors are warm and welcoming and every morning they get up early to create a unique, healthy, and homemade breakfast that is often served in the garden.

Rooms for two people, including that breakfast for two, are between 48-70 euros. Given that you are in the heart of town and everything is central, in spite of the wonderful rural feel of the place, you don’t need your own wheels to get here or to stay here.

It’s an easy downhill saunter to yoga sessions, to the bus stop for buses to Granada, Malaga, Motril, or to other Alpujarran destinations, and shops and markets are all within a few hundred yards away in the town center.

Photo by Joi

Organic Dining Out in Órgiva

For such a small town, Órgiva has terrific dining out options that won’t kill your budget. Here you’ll find places where organic, Slow Food, and Buy Local, Buy Fresh drive the standard meal.

Three favorites are Café Libertad, El Limonero, and Café-Tetería Baraka. The latter is a fun hangout run by local Sufis that offers diverse vegetarian cuisine, a variety of tea, as well as other non-alcoholic beverages, including natural fruit juices and smoothies.

Organic Food Markets in Órgiva

Everyday is market day if you go to the central covered market near the Plaza de la Alpujarra in the heart of town. Therein you’ll find the organic farmers, wine makers, bakers, and cheesemakers.

But the highlight is the weekly open-air market on Thursday mornings, on the long, narrow plaza on the northern end of town (the uphill end, near Casa Jazmin).

It’s a riotous and colorful gathering of farmers, clothes-sellers, and craftspeople. Dogs, guitars, and long-haired and short-haired folks alike mingle and embrace their hybrid traditional and alternative ways of living and eating.

Photo by judepics.

Getting There

Getting to Órgiva is easy.

It is 52 kilometers south of Granada. By car, take the A-44/E-902 south of Granada and after 34 kilometers exit east for Lanjarón. Follow signs to Órgiva. Or, just get on a bus in Granada destined for Órgiva, costing fewer than 5 euros one way.

Alternately, Yoga Under the Sky can arrange for a taxi to pick you up at Granada’s airport and deliver you to Órgiva for 50 euros. While this might sound like a lot, it’s a bargain for a private driver and no car rental. Still, the bus is pretty easy.

Adventures Beyond Yoga

Hiking Options:

Take the local bus from Órgiva to Pampaneira, a twenty-minute ride, and hike from the mountain village of Pampaneira to Bubión and on to Capileira. You can either hike back to Pampaneira for the bus, or take the bus from Capileira to Órgiva. In all places, you will find ample cafes for a tapa and refreshment. Beer or chilled fino sherry are favorites. Drink lots of water, too.

Tibetan Retreat:

Consider a silent meditation retreat at the O Sel Ling Tibetan Buddhist retreat, between Órgiva and Pampaneira. If you go as a couple, you will need to do this stint in separate huts and in silence.

Visit Granada:

Photo by pasotraspaso.

Granada is an easy 45-minute bus ride away from Órgiva, so you can make a fun day-trip to the city and soak up the magical Alhambra fortress-palace complex and hit the streets in the old neighborhood of the Albaicin.

Albaicin is filled with vegetarian and organic restaurants, especially along Calle Nueva Calderería, the center of Granada’s alternative, progressive, New Age, Bohemian scene. A day trip can be a boon if you are traveling during the peak summer season, when finding lodging in Granada can be stressful.

Relax, secure a week or two at the Casa Jazmin in Órgiva, do some yoga, eat locally, and unpack just once in your peaceful mountain retreat.

Community Connection!

The author of this article, Beebe, was recently featured in 50 Inspirational Travelers. If you liked Beebe’s guide to Orgiva Yoga, please be sure to read her surf guide to Asturias, a lovely rural section of the Spanish coast.

Feature photo by goulao Photo by rhoadeecha

Contrary to Pulp Fiction lore, there’s more to Amsterdam than hash bars.

Coffeeshops are the shit for many an Amsterdam virgin, yet locals view them as tourist traps lacking in “gezelligheid,” or coziness, the cornerstone of Dutch culture. Smoking yourself into a coma at the Bulldog is just fine, but you’re going to miss out.

Follow these ten tips and you’ll do Amsterdam like a local.

1) Immerse yourself in art.

From Spui take tram 2 or 5 to Museumplein, where the Van Gogh and Rijksmuseum keep you occupied for hours.

View Van Gogh’s life through art, from the Potato Eaters up through the last two months of his life in France.

Holland’s Golden Age is the highlight of the Rijksmuseum. Don’t miss Vermeer’s Milkmaid.

2) Day trip it.

For an excursion, the 15-minute train ride to Haarlem is worth the trip.

Browse fashionable boutiques, visit the Gothic St. Bavo church, and walk to the Frans Hals art museum.

For eats, kick back at the spacious Café Brinkman (grandcafebrinkman.nl) on the square, and to top off the day, have drinks at Café 1900 (Barteljorisstraat 10) on the way back to the train station.

Photo by goulao

3) Drink up.

With more than 1200 intriguing pubs to crawl you’ll have more than your fill.

Start at the Heineken brewery (Stadshouderkade 78) to see how famous beer is produced. Check out Café Belgique to taste smooth Belgian brews like La Chouffe and La Trappe Dubbel.

Other standouts: gallery/bar Schuim (Spuistraat 189), Gollem, and In De Wildeman.

4) Night bike it.

Amsterdam is most romantic at night, when the city is aglow from lit up bridges and canals.

Start at Leidseplein and bike down Kerkstraat to the Amstel River, where you’ll find the Skinny Bridge in all its glory.

Cut across Waterlooplein to Jodenbreestraat, which takes you into Nieuwmarkt. Pay a visit to the Waag, a pub/restaurant that once formed the city wall, or brown bar Café ‘t Loosje (Nieuwmarkt 32-34).

Photo by katielips

5) Club it.

For pre-partying, head to Lux (Marnixstraat 403) Bitterzoet (Spuistraat 2), or Seymour Likely (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 250) for live DJs.

Join the dance crowd at Mazzo (Rozengracht 114), Club More (Rozengracht 133), and Paradiso (Weteringschans 6-8). For a laid-back vibe, check out Café Alto (Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115) for local jazz acts.

Photo by tylerdurden

6) Shop for treasures.

Walk the famous 9 streets (theninestreets.com), to pick up cutting edge fashion and eclectic wares.

Don’t miss Lady Day, which sells vintage and secondhand European fashion for a steal. Browse for a designer fragrance like Creed at Skins Cosmetics, investigate the Paul Frank Store , and get pampered at Spoiled, where you’ll be custom matched to a designer pair of jeans.

Photo by earcos

7) Do it like the Dutch.

Nothing says typically Dutch better than a hunk of Gouda stuffed in a fresh bread roll.

Savor this ritual by picking up a sandwich at Broodje van Kootje (Spui 28). Grab a newspaper at the Athenaeum bookstore across the way, and plunk yourself down on a bench in the square.

For another Dutch favorite, visit the Pannekoekenhuis, a tiny upstairs restaurant on the second floor of a narrow canal house. Dive into big pancakes, served sweet or savory.

8 ) Indulge, Indonesian style.

A former colony of the Netherlands, Indonesia now occupies Amsterdam, in terms of cuisine.

The rice table (a smorgasbord of dishes) is the name of the game but you can opt for the Nasi Goreng (fried rice) at Sie Joe.

For something more upscale, consider Tempoe Doloe, on the boutique-lined street, Utrechtsestraat or Puri Mas, located in the entertainment district of Leidseplein.

9) While the day away in a café.

At Café Zeezicht (Hoofdweg 456), people watch on the outdoor terrace, sipping a Dutch style latte and nibbling on the best apple tart in town. Brown cafes, named for their wooden interiors, are good for mingling with the locals.

Cafes not to miss: De Balie, Café De Tuin (Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 13), and Café ‘t Smalle (Egelantiersgracht 12).

10) Walk it.

Start at the eastern end of the Albert Cuyp street market in the ethnically diverse neighborhood De Pijp.

Peruse Dutch treats like fish, cheese, and chocolate among 300 stalls. Take a right on Ferdinand Bolstraat, then a left on Stadshouderkade.

Take a right at Spiegelgracht for a stroll in the antique district. Turn left onto Herengracht to see splendid 17th century canal houses. Make a right at Leidsestraat and go up to Singel.

Hit the Singel lunch Café (Singel 404) for homemade soups and baguette sandwiches.

Feature photo by brunotessa Photo above by PBoGS

New York City is consistently ranked among America’s favorite travel destinations, but few visitors know that an entirely different yet equally interesting world lies less than an hour outside the urban bustle of Manhattan’s concrete canyon.

Photo by Randy OHC

This guide to the five best Hudson River Valley day trips gives you itineraries that are new even to locals.

These peaceful escapes are far enough off the beaten path not to be overrun, but close enough to public transport for you to easily get back to the city.

The itineraries are intended to be flexible. Some offer lodging options and can easily be extended into weekend trips. For the ambitious traveler, the itineraries can also be combined into a single journey.

No Car? No Problem!

The Hudson River Valley is serviced by Metro North trains, which run to and from New York City. All of the sites listed in these itineraries are located within 20 minutes of a train station; taxis at each depot are available to help you reach them.

Here are the top 5 peaceful escapes in the Hudson Valley.

Graymoor Spiritual Life Center

Just off Highway 9, the main road taking you out of Manhattan and into the Hudson River Valley, is the “blink-and-you’ll-miss-it” town of Garrison, which is where you’ll find Graymoor, a spiritual center staffed by Franciscan friars.

One of the main functions of the center is to host one-day and weekend retreats, and there are at least two every month, except June.

Graymoor also has rooms available (singles and doubles) for visitors who would like to engage in self-directed reflection; for $65 a night, you will be provided with basic but comfortable and private accommodations and three meals.

If you won’t be staying over, there’s still plenty to see and do. The grounds are extensive and beautiful, and there are many quiet places for reflection, writing, or enjoying nature.

Be sure to check out the sweeping view of the valley from the cliff just to the right of the old friary.

There’s also a bookstore, gift shop, and thrift store on the grounds. The proceeds from the latter go to the St. Christopher’s Inn, which is a rehab facility.

Photo by tonythemisfit

*Tip: The Appalachian Trail cuts through Graymoor’s property; in fact, until 1994, Graymoor provided lodging and meals to tired hikers. (They now permit hikers to set up tents on their ball field).

If you plan to explore the Valley on foot, consider combining the itineraries by using the AT as your thoroughfare.

Headed north from Graymoor, you can follow the AT over to Highway 301 East, which will lead you to the Stonecrop Gardens, Fahnestock State Park, the Taconic State Outdoor Education Center, and the Chuang Yen Monastery.

Stonecrop Gardens

A few miles past Graymoor, further north on Highway 9, you’ll come to a stop light marking the junction of 9 and Highway 301. Turn right (east) and you’ll come, more or less in succession, across each of the remaining itinerary sites.

The first of these destinations is Stonecrop Gardens, a tucked off-the-road secret garden. Actually, Stonecrop is several gardens: woodland, water, grass, alpine stone, cliff rock, and English, to be exact.

Open from the beginning of April until the end of October, Stonecrop is a plant lover’s dream. Be sure to visit the picturesque pond-side conservatory.

If you want to know what plants will be flowering during your visit, check the bloom calendar. If you’re a gardener, ask about Stonecrop’s seminum and rarium programs, which provide native and rare seeds at a reasonable price.

*Tip: Be sure to check days and hours of operation in advance. At the time of this writing, a $5 admission fee is charged to each visitor.

Photo by bucketwater

Fahnestock State Park

The 14,000+ acre Clarence Fahnestock State Park is a multi-use site that is equally welcoming to the hard-core outdoor enthusiast and the passive recreationalist.

Depending on the season, visitors can enjoy cross-country skiing and snowshoe trails, fishing, and hiking. Go as deep into the park as you like, but there’s plenty to keep you busy just off the shoulder of Highway 301.

Going east, you’ll come across a small lake. You can enjoy a picnic on the shore or rent a rowboat by the hour or by the day.

A bit further up the road, just past Canopus Lake, you’ll find the entrance for “the beach,” a lakeside shore built in the 1970s with sand trucked in from Long Island.

For information about activities, permits, and hours visit the park’s website; maps and additional information can be found here.

Photo by christinahope

Taconic Outdoor Education Center

Taconic Outdoor Education Center is actually a part of Fahnestock State Park, but the Center is worth its own listing because it offers some special experiences, including maple sugaring (the process of tapping maples for the sap that will become syrup).

The TOEC is especially great for families, hosting occasional recreation festivals during which kayaking, orienteering (finding your way around in the woods), and other sports and skills are taught.

The TOEC also offers affordable lodging, camping, and retreat options.

Chuang Yen Buddhist Monastery

Just past the “Town of Kent” sign on the north side of Highway 301 is the unassuming entrance for the Chuang Yen Monastery.

As you enter the wooded property and the road yields to a view of the massive temple, you’ll be amazed to learn that such a tiny, out of the way town is home to the Buddhist Association of the United States.

Enter the Great Buddha Hall or Kuan-Yin Hall and engage in meditation. Walk around the Seven Jewels Lake and watch fish and turtles going about their business.

Visit the Woo-Ju Memorial Library to see one of the best collections of Tibetan Buddhist literature in the United States.

If you happen to visit on the weekend, free vegetarian meals are offered to guests between noon and 1 PM. If you like Chuang Yen so much you’d like to stay a bit longer, modest lodging and meals are provided for just $15 a night. Retreats are also offered periodically.

Community Connection!

Matador members (heart) NY.

Lola recently wrote a fun blog about the Hudson Valley town of Peekskill.

Veronica, an expert on NY art museums, writes:

“One of the best things about living in NY is the embarrassment of cultural riches–and particularly the amazing museums.”

For info on the hottest bars and clubs in the Big Apple, check out Kyle’s guide to the Top 10 Nightlife Spots In NYC.

Feature photo by kevinandersson Photo by pizzodisevo

In this guide you’ll find advice for both a bare-bones budget trip of 30 euros per day and a more comfortable but still frugal budget of 100 euros per day.

Shelter

Lodging is where you’re going to spend the most money in Italy.

30E / day

If you’re an adventurer, Couchsurf. Besides bringing the cost of your stay down to $0, you will meet people who will undoubtedly be willing to host you next time you find yourself in Italy.

Couchsurfing is more popular and mainstream than you think. Rome alone has over 1,400 registered Couch Surf members.

100E/day

If you’re not so trusting or have a family, HI Youth Hostels are ample in Italy and are some of the most clean and beautiful hostels in the world.

For 10-20E / person / night you can stay in a renovated church, villa or a converted castle. Most offer family rooms for a higher fee.

Photo by travellingtamas

Food

Food is the heart of Italian life. Even in my poorest backpacking days, I existed on good bread topped with tomatoes, garlic and whatever cheese I could find for 2E per meal.

It is not customary to tip in Italy, so don’t feel bad and waste your money- the service charge has already been added to the bill.

30E / day

If you’re willing to buy and cook your own food, you should be looking at 10E or less per day for food.

Some saving tips:

Eat at the bar, don’t sit down. You could get charged as much as 5x the amount for an espresso if you sit down.

Shop the markets and don’t look down your nose at supermarket boxed wines; I’ve had good table wine for as little as .65E in Italy!

100E / day

If you spend a little more on food, you won’t be disappointed.

More saving tips:

Beware of tourist trap restaurants near major monuments.

Look for trattorias, which are cheaper than ristorante, and order only primi (first courses). This is usually a pasta dish and will fill you up.

Soda is expensive in Italy – order the house table wine instead. Wine is often even cheaper than water!

Photo by wtlphotos

Getting Around

There is an array of bus and train options to take you around Italy.

Once in town, you can walk anywhere that you need to go. There is absolutely no reason to take a cab anywhere unless you are in an extreme hurry.

30E / day

Get ready for this, don’t buy a ticket. That’s right- get on the train/bus and hope for the best.

Italy’s train and bus personnel only conduct random checks for tickets and because schedules are often crazy, you are allowed to purchase when you get on. If the conductor doesn’t come by, you’re in the clear.

Worst case scenario, you have to buy a ticket when the conductor comes by – so have money ready and pretend that you didn’t know any better.

100E / day

Metros, trains and buses are all relatively inexpensive. If there is more than 1 person in your group, you can save by purchasing a Saver Rail Pass at Tenitalia.

The Pass is for 2-5 people traveling together, and costs significantly less than purchasing individual tickets for each leg of the trip.

Sights

Why else would you come to Italy? The sheer volume of architecture and artwork is enough to keep you busy for months.

The things to beware of are extras tacked on expenses – 2E to see this part of the monument, 5E to climb it, etc.

30E / day

Thankfully, most sites are free if you don’t enter. The leaning tower of Pisa, the Roman forum, the outside of the Coloseum, Florence’s Grand piazza, the Trevi Fountain and the beautiful countryside all are sights you can visit without paying a cent.

100E / day

You can choose to visit a few major monuments for under 20E per day. Most cities offer a discounted multi-pass, granting you entrance to all listed sites for one price.

Inquire for these at the tourist information centers, generally located in the train station in the center of town.

Happy Travels!

Community Connection!

For more insider tips on travel in Italy, get in touch with travelers from the Matador community.

RollingStone is an expert on Rome. VitaSogno knows the locals in Assisi. Ghino studied and worked in Italy for two years.

Suz (or diastro americano, as her Italian cousins call her), speaks fluent Italian and has lived in Florence and Rome.

The Matador travel community is blossoming. Join us today.

Beautiful Bottom Bay, Photo by Eva Holland

One of the most popular and heavily-touristed islands in the Eastern Caribbean, Barbados certainly offers its share of generic resort experiences. In fact, the peaceful west coast, sheltered from the open Atlantic, is devoted almost entirely to high-end, gated resorts, duty-free shopping, and over-priced daiquiris.

Fine, if that’s what you came for.

But in spite of the heavy development in some areas, Barbados retains a distinct personality, a regional cuisine, some stunning natural areas and plenty of local traditions and culture.

If you’d like to experience the best that the island has to offer, this guide is the place to start.

Oistins Fish Fry

Friday nights mean one thing to locals, tourists and ex-pats alike: fish fry time. Head down to the waterfront in the village of Oistins (on the south coast, east of Dover and Maxwell) anytime after sundown for a delicious, filling plate of the day’s fresh catch.

A double row of shacks serve the crowds, and everyone has their own favorite. Offerings vary from week to week, but red snapper, dolphin (the Bajan term for mahi mahi), swordfish and tuna are all common.

Try Annie’s, on the eastern end of the row facing the road, for the best selection of typically Bajan sidedishes, like peas’n’rice, grilled sweet potatoes, or macaroni pie. For an appetizer, check out the “Hot Legendary Fishcakes” booth, in the middle of the row.

After you’ve eaten, grab a bottle of island-brewed Banks beer and stick around; a DJ will be spinning the latest soca and dancehall reggae until at least midnight. Shake a leg with the locals if you dare.

Bathsheba, on the rugged east coast. Photo by Eva Holland

Bottom Bay

Just before the south coast turns a sharp corner and becomes the east coast at Ragged Point, you’ll find Bottom Bay, and it’s as perfect a tropical beach as I’ve ever seen.

Though there are some new suburb-style housing developments going up in the area, the nearest hotel is miles away and the beach – tucked between rocky cliffs, and reachable by a narrow dirt path – is almost totally undeveloped.

I say “almost” because no trip to Bottom Bay is complete without meeting the beach’s resident “coconut guy,” a young local who calls himself Dr. Mongoose.

For a small fee, Dr. Mongoose will shimmy up a 30-foot palm tree, bring down a fresh young coconut, and hack it open for you to enjoy the refreshing water inside. He also rents a couple of lounge chairs.

Dr. Mongoose in action at Bottom Bay. Eva

Bottom Bay is a little out of the way, and the waves are too heavy for swimming most days, but if you’re looking for a stunning dose of icing-sugar sand, swaying palms, and colors worthy of a Corona ad, don’t miss it.

Bathsheba

Because the Atlantic surf on the island’s rugged east coast is heavy at best, and legitimately dangerous at worst, this side of Barbados has been largely ignored by developers.

The sole exception is the ragged, laid-back little resort town of Bathsheba, which caters to surfers – local and foreign alike – who want to test themselves in “the soupbowl”.

The waves here are not for beginners, but even if you’re not a serious surfer it’s a gorgeous spot to while away an afternoon, watching the show.

Try the Roundhouse Inn for a beer and a bite to eat (budget tip: listed as a sidedish, the macaroni pie is nearly a meal in itself), or even stay for a night to fully savor the vibe. The Roundhouse, the Atlantis Hotel , and the Sea-U Guesthouse all offer rooms in the area at varying rates.

Beautiful Bottom Bay, Photo by Eva Holland

North Point

The jagged cliffs and frothy, pounding surf at the island’s northernmost point feel worlds away from the sedate beaches further south. Bring a picnic and enjoy the waves and the wind; wander a couple hundred yards east from the main point to see water being forced out and up into the air through a nauseatingly-deep blowhole.

Don’t let any handicraft vendors convince you that you need to pay to visit the point; there is no admission fee, and the parking and washrooms are also free of charge.

Waves crash at North Point. Photo by Eva Holland

Carlisle Bay

If you’re going to do fun in the sun you might as well do it right. And Carlisle Bay, on the south coast just east of the capital city, Bridgetown, is the place to go for beachy hedonism: think banana boats, jet ski rides, water trampolines, and more.

The action is concentrated at the beach’s western end; rent an umbrella and sip a daiquiri, join the beautiful people already splashing flirtatiously in the water, or pay the cover charge to gain access to The Boatyard, a beachfront club where a sound system blasting reggae-lite (Shaggy, Maxi Priest) keep an all-day dance party going.

The best part about Carlisle Bay, though, is that it’s a massive strip of sand: start walking east from the heart of the hedonism, and you’ll quickly find yourself on an undeveloped stretch populated mainly by a sprinkling of local residents.

On a Sunday, you might even see a born-again baptism taking place in the shallow, calm water.

Oistins Fish Fry. Photo by Eva Holland

Practicalities

The Barbados dollar (B$) is fixed at a rate of 2 to 1 with the US dollar; hotels generally quote prices in greenbacks, but Barbados dollars are used most everywhere else.

Barbados receives daily direct flights from Toronto, New York, Miami and London, to name a few. Grantley Adams International Airport is one of the best facilities in the Caribbean; it’s also a hub for smaller carriers serving the other islands.

Most of the mid-range and budget accommodation in Barbados is scattered along the south coast, in areas like Rockley, Dover, and the St. Lawrence Gap. Here’s a list of the island’s guesthouses organized by rate – note that costs will vary according to the season.

There’s not always a lot to choose from between these budget places, but The Dolphin Inn is recommended, clean and friendly.

In high season (roughly mid-December to early April) you may want to book all your accommodation in advance; from late March on, though, vacancy rates will start to rise, and you could probably just book the first couple of nights and then shop around.

(You’ll need to provide an initial hotel’s address to Barbadian customs, so you have to at least book your first night.)

There are also a number of Couchsurfers based in Barbados.

Public transit is pretty good in Barbados, and particularly along the south coast, where large government buses and smaller vans rush up and down the coastal road between Bridgetown and Sam Lord’s Castle. A single fare costs B$1.50.

These south coast buses will take you to Oistins and Carlisle Bay; Bottom Bay is not far past their terminus at Sam Lord’s, and is clearly signposted from the road. Bathsheba is also served by buses from Bridgetown; ask around for the routes headed up the east coast.

North Point is not on a bus route, and you’ll need a rental car or a taxi to get there.

Taxis are plentiful, safe, and reasonably priced; agree on a rate for your destination before you set off.

Community Connection!

Do you want to escape to a beautiful Caribbean island where you can hang with locals instead of scarfing down the travel equivalent of an Extra Value Meal at Club Med?

Check out our series on chill Caribbean islands by browsing related posts below, or get in touch with the remarkable individuals who wrote them -

Anna, who speaks French and Swedish and knows the lush jungles and romantic waterfall plunge pools of Dominica.

Tony, who eats rainbows and lives in the Virgin Islands with his wife and new baby.

Eva, a Canadian travel writer who can hold her own drinking beer with a New Zealand rugby team.

Matador is a community of aware travelers who are working together for a better world.

Join Us.

Chairs for Rent, Lower Bay. Photo by Eva Holland

What to say about Bequia?

I could call it enchanting, idyllic, or seductively laid-back – all that would be true. I could tell you it’s a gem, or a jewel, a pristine and undeveloped (by Caribbean standards) oasis in a world of all-inclusives. Those things, clichéd or not, would also be true.

But everyone has their own idea of paradise, and yours might not be anything like mine. So instead I’ll just say that I love Bequia, and I think you might just love it too.

Here is all the information you need to discover the best of Bequia:

“Leave only footprints behind”. Photo by Eva Holland.

Get There

Bequia (pronounced Beck-way) is the second-largest rock in the island nation of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines – and at seven square miles, that’s not saying a whole lot.

High-end resort-goers and Hollywood celebrities drive the economies of neighboring Canouan and Mustique to the south, while rumor has it that the global narcotics trade fuels the “mainland” – the island of Saint Vincent – just nine miles north.

There’s a tiny airport on the island – small carrier SVG Air lands there – but the simplest way to arrive is to fly into Saint Vincent and catch one of the regular ferries.

LIAT is your best bet for decent prices; try connecting in Barbados, a hub that receives daily flights from the US, Canada, and the UK, or in Trinidad.

A taxi from the airport to the ferry terminal should cost 25 Eastern Caribbean dollars (EC$), and a one-way ferry ticket costs another EC$20. (The EC$ is pegged at $2.75 to the US dollar – good news for Americans!)

Ferries run regularly on weekdays and are much less frequent on weekends; check the online schedules, but ask around when you arrive or call ahead as they aren’t always reliable.

Food and Shelter

Most of Bequia’s accommodation options – chiefly simple guesthouses and small boutique hotels – are clustered around the edges of Port Elizabeth, the tiny town in Admiralty Bay where the ferry docks.

Good news for solo travelers: many of these hotels offer reduced single-occupancy rates on double rooms.

The best bargain on the island is The Frangipani, on the Belmont Walkway, which offers five “original rooms” on the second floor of an old house. Pricier air-con cabins with en-suite bath are out back, but the simple rooms, equipped with mosquito nets, fans, and sea breezes, are all you need.

The Frangi is gorgeous, with friendly staff, an excellent restaurant and an outdoor bar/patio with occasional live music.

Isola and Julie’s Guest House, directly across from the ferry jetty, is a simple budget option with a loyal following. For total isolation, check out the Crescent Beach Inn, on Industry Bay. Bear in mind that you’ll be a longish walk from most eating options, though.

If you have a group, inquire with the tourist authorities about apartment and villa rentals. You can save a lot of cash on Bequia by self-catering; stock up on groceries at Food City, next to the ferry terminal in Saint Vincent, before coming across to the island.

There’s a string of restaurants and bars along Port Elizabeth’s Belmont Walkway, a beach-front stone path that runs along the south side of Admiralty Bay. Most have affordable lunches and pricier dinners; The Green Boley is an exception, where even at dinner you can get filling plates of local specialties like conch curry for between EC$30 and EC$40.

Try The Porthole for lunch, where rotis go for around EC$12 or, further afield on Lower Bay, Dawn’s Café for cheap sandwiches.

In Port Elizabeth itself, Maria’s has sandwiches and snacks, internet terminals, and long hours. Most places have a daily special – some variation on seafood and rice – that will give you good value.

Bequia’s handful of giftshops is centered around the ferry dock. There’s also a small produce market there, and across the street is an ATM and a post office. The Bequia Technology center (follow the “Digicel” sign) next to Maria’s has comparable prices for internet, but better machines and air-con.

Be aware that almost everything shuts down on Sundays; hotel restaurants will be virtually the only places open, and they are welcoming to non-guests.

Admiralty Bay. Photo by Eva Holland.

Hit the Beach

The secret to Bequia’s success is Admiralty Bay, where yachties from around the world drop anchor. It’s the traffic from these yachts that keeps the restaurants and bars running – you’ll see rubber dingies zooming in from across the bay at sundown – while simultaneously keeping Bequia’s beaches completely undeveloped. Yachters, after all, do not require hotel complexes.

Start with the amenity-free, local-frequented Princess Margaret Beach, clearly signposted from the main road leading south out of Port Elizabeth. The next beach over is Lower Bay, which – thanks to a couple of sleepy cafes and a handful of lounge chairs for rent – is the closest thing to a “developed” beach that you’ll find on the island. (Cancun it ain’t.)

On the south side of the island, Friendship Bay is where Bequia’s only higher-end accommodation is located; at the time of writing, construction was underway there, too. Funnily enough, it’s one of the less attractive spots on the island, so it’s no huge loss – still worth a visit for the views on the way there, though.

North east of Port Elizabeth you’ll find Industry Bay, Spring Bay, and Park Bay – where you may be lucky enough to stumble on a local BBQ. Be sure to check out the Turtle Sanctuary while you’re here. It’s on the water between Spring and Park bays.

Friendship Bay. Photo by Eva Holland.

Special Events

Bequia was a major whaling center back in the day, and islanders are still permitted to hunt two whales per year in honor of this heritage. The hunt – which isn’t always successful – occurs each January and is a major occasion. The island also hosts a regatta every Easter. You’ll find a couple of small museums dedicated to Bequia’s whaling and ship-building heritage scattered around the island.

The Bottom Line

I could go on about that artist’s studio in the hills, or this model boat shop in town, but the key to Bequia is to simply get out and walk, and discover its treasures for yourself. The island is safe, compact, and enjoys perfect weather pretty well year round.

So take a walk. Take a nap on the beach. Drink a papaya juice and watch the sun go down. I don’t know about you, but that sounds like paradise to me.

Community Connection!

For more information on Bequia, check out Eva’s blog ‘Smitten in the Grenadines‘. For other guides to chill Caribbean islands, check out Tony Gatti’s pieces on Tortola and Jost van Dyke, or Anna Brones’ lovely guide to Dominica.

Matador blogger Julie can tell you all about her favorite islands, including Vieques and Cuba.

Matador is blossoming. Join the community today!

Photo by Elsie McIverSelling organic produce

If a picture is worth a thousand words, then France just might be the word worth a thousand pictures.

The world’s most popular tourist destination manages to seduce a lot of people, be it because of the language, the countryside, the French joie de vivre or simply the wine. But France is more than the glittering lights of the Eiffel Tower and a Nutella slathered baguette.

One of the best ways to dive into French culture is to spend time in a rural community. If you are willing to work for your room and board, you can often score a pretty inexpensive French vacation with the added bonus of getting to truly enjoy the local way of life.

Instead of re-packing your backpack every few days and only seeing various tourist attractions, you get the chance to have a semi-permanent base camp, integrate into the local community, practice your French language skills and experience authentic French culture.

From working on vineyards and farms to restoring medieval castles, here is your guide to discovering France from the inside, getting you away from glossy tourist brochures and into the everyday rhythm of la vie française.

photo by Elsie McIver

Working the land

What is more symbolic of the French lifestyle than wine and gastronomy? The two are integral parts of the French economy, and more importantly, French tradition.

France prides itself on agriculture and wine production; taking part in either of the two therefore means not just consuming the delicious drink and food that France has to offer, but helping to produce it.

A popular and relatively hassle-free way to do farm or vineyard work is to join World-Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF). For a small registration fee you get access to a whole network of farms across France; to make your life even easier, they let you pay with Paypal.

The registration fee gives you access to the WWOOF France guidebook, published in paper (25€) as well as in an online format (15€). The guide contains listings of over 300 participating farms that you can contact and at which you can volunteer.

Time commitment varies from farm to farm; some want workers for only a few days or weeks and others want you to stick around several months. Working as a WWOOFer means you will get free room and board in exchange for labor, and you’ll probably end up working with some other interesting travelers from all around the world.

Beyond vineyards and farms

Agricultural work might not be your life passion, but there are still several options for seeing rural France up close and personal – and cheap. One way is to partake in an archeological excavation or work on an historic site.

photo by Elsie McIver

There are several organizations that put together these kinds of work-trips, and although they require fees, they are minimal in exchange for the room, board and local experiences that you receive.

Workcamps through Service Civil International (SCI) require an application fee of $235. Although you are responsible for paying all travel expenses, room and board is covered. The two to three week volunteer projects range from environmental protection to renovating medieval castles.

Volunteers for Peace, based out of Vermont, offers over 300 programs in France for the upcoming summer months. The average project length is about three weeks and costs $300 plus a $30 VFP annual membership fee.

If you want to spend your summer in romantic Provence check out La Sabrenenque which offers volunteer restoration projects of architectural sites. The two week program costs $710 for 2 weeks, which includes room and board as well as organized activities and excursions.

Where do I go?

France is a big country with many regions, traditions, and even climates. So how do you pick where to explore?

For wine lovers, remember that in France wine is named by the region it comes from. If your favorite wine is a Bordeaux, makes plans to head to the southwest. Or how about the smooth taste of Burgundy? Look no farther than the vineyards of east-central France.

The exception to the rule is with white wines, which are named after the grape used to make them. If you want an in-depth discovery of white wine, look no farther than Alsace, in northeastern France; this is where the best white wine in all of France comes from.

Comment voulez-vous gouverner un pays qui a deux cent quarante-six variétés de fromage? In the words of Charles de Gaulle, “How can you govern a country with 246 varieties of cheese?”

It’s true: France has a lot of cheese, and if you have difficulty governing the country, you’ll definitely have difficulty choosing where to go.

.

Normandy is home to the infamous Camembert, and also superb crepes and hard cider. Savoie, a region in the French Alps, produces Roblochon. Comté is another popular cheese – in fact it has the highest production figures of all French cheeses – and is made in the region of Franche-Comté.

photo by Elsie McIver

For all of the French cheeses, check out this helpful list at Wikipedia.

Another way to decide your destination is by way of gastronomy. Cuisine varies from region to region in France, and every one has its specialty. Southern France has more Mediterranean influence, lots of vegetables, fish and olive oil, while the northeast sticks to its heavier German roots with delicacies like sausages and sauerkraut.

Remember that the great thing about France is that anywhere you go their will always be a selection of wine, cheese, regional specialties and locals that are proud of where they live.

Exploring on your own

After a few weeks of working or volunteering, you might want to take off on your own French adventure. One of the most inexpensive ways to explore France, and especially the wine regions, is by bicycle.

Alsace and the Champagne region are two ideal places for wine and wheels; they both feature “wine routes,” roads weaving through the vineyard dense countryside, and villages are close together, meaning your cycling days don’t have to be overly strenuous.

Here you can pedal from village to village, or vineyard to vineyard, take in an afternoon tasting and get a room for the night.

For inexpensive accommodations, many regional tourist offices offer rooms chez l’habitant, basically in the room of a local villager’s house. These provide an excellent, and inexpensive, way to enjoy rural French hospitality.

In terms of budget, life is a little easier if you have a travel partner; rooms chez l’habitant can run as low as 40€ per night for two people, and usually include a homemade breakfast complete with fresh croissants.

photo by Elsie McIver WWOOF farm

Getting around

Transportation is an inevitable cost, even if you manage to score free room and board by doing some WWOOFing, but there are a few ways to get good deals.

If you are under 25 years old and planning on traveling in France for an extended period of time, you may want to consider getting a SNCF 12-25 card. The card costs 49€ but gets you up to 60% off all train ticket purchases. Valid for one year, you are guaranteed a minimum of 25% off normal ticket prices.

If your stay in France is shorter, or you are over 25, try to buy your tickets in advance. Although SNCF sometimes offers last minute promotions, you will have an easier time getting a good deal on a ticket if you plan ahead.

The TGV Europe website is also helpful in planning train trips, but keep in mind that to get to smaller destinations in France you will most likely need to take a regional train at least once during your adventure.

Comment dit-on…???

Often, a big concern of traveling to France is whether or not your dusty high school French is going to cut it. Some volunteer programs require participants to have a certain level of French, but for the most part as long as you keep an open mind, a pocket dictionary and use merci, bonjour, and a repertoire of hand gestures, you should be able to do just fine.

Once you and your hosts have had a few glasses of wine you’ll find that language suddenly becomes unimportant.

Community Connection

Finding a Matador Traveler with some France experience isn’t too difficult. Elsiek, who graciously provided the photos for this article, spent several months WWOOFing in southern France. If you’re stopping in Paris on your way to rural France, check out jgbrandt’s article How to Enjoy Paris on $100 a Day.

Photo by Jon Brandt

With the price of the euro continuing to climb, American travelers to Europe have found that their savings – which used to get them a lot of bang for the buck – are now leaving them with few options.

As a result, the savvy traveler should know some important facts and tips on how to stretch their dollars, as well as how to get some freebies while traveling. Whether you’re backpacking or staying in hotels, these tips can keep you from hitting up the ATM every other day.

Oh, Where Do Those Dollars Go?

Paris is one of the most popular cities in Europe, and for good reason. With a long list of famous museums, unique quarters, and cool cafes, you can literally spend a week in the city without running out of things to do.

You need to keep track of your expenses, however, because Paris is also one of the most expensive cities in the world.

If you’re a student, you’re in luck, because the museums of Europe love to give discounts to academia. Even if you’re a year or two out of college and still have your old student ID, take it with you.

At the Louvre, for example, every first Sunday of the month and July 14 (Bastille Day), admission for students is free.

If you won’t be there at that time, there’s no need to stress. Every Friday between 6 pm and 9:45 pm, admission is free to all visitors under the age of 26. Valid ID is required.

photo by Jon Brandt

If you won’t be able to spend a whole lot of time in Paris, but you wanted to see as much as possible, the best thing you can do is a free walking tour of the city.

Every day at different times and locations, Fat Tire Bike Tours offers guided tours. These tours differ in the places they go and things they focus on, but will usually go to the same general locations that most visitors would want to see.

Walking tours can go for about 3 1/2 hours and take you over a good portion of the city. If you’re staying in a hostel, there should be a brochure for the tour at the front desk, and if not, ask the staff. Some of the tours do cost money, but you should also ask about the free tours.

All the guides ask is that if you enjoyed the experience, you give a tip at the end.

Versailles: A Day On Its Own

If you want to visit Versailles, be prepared to spend a lot of money. First, you’ll need to jump on the Metro to get to the train station, where you’ll have to buy a roundtrip ticket to Versailles.

When you get to the palace, you’ll need to pay 13.50-15 euro to get into the grounds, which won’t include everything. For an all inclusive pass, you need to dish out 20 euro.

photo by Jon Brandt

Unless you’re a die-hard French history buff, it’s best to get the lowest entry ticket and walk around. You still gain access to the more popular areas and can walk all over the grounds. Versailles is huge, and you can spend hours just walking around.

After the Museums, What Next?

Being in Paris, you might be tempted to sit at a café and try some coffee or enjoy some wine. You should indulge a bit, but keep in mind that a cup of coffee can cost about 3-4 euro. Wine, on the other hand, can be bought very cheaply at a store.

Drinking outside in Paris is acceptable, so you can simply buy a bottle of wine and sit in a park and enjoy. This will save you a lot of money later on, especially if you’re traveling with friends and can share the cost.

Some people like to buy a few bottles of wine and sit by the Eiffel Tower at night to watch the light show every hour. That’s just one suggestion, but you can do the same anywhere else in the city.

Drinking outside is great a way to cut down on costs at bars and clubs, and you might get to actually interact with some of the locals while doing so.

Who’s Hungry?

Food in Paris is delicious, but extremely expensive. If you really want to cut your costs, you should just shop at a local food market.

This works better in groups of 2 or 3, but if you can pitch in and buy bread, deli, and whatever else you need, you can survive off of sandwiches for a few days, drastically cutting down on the costs.

At one pizza shop in the 15th Arrondissement, a neighborhood that isn’t known for tourism or high prices, one individual-sized pizza at a restaurant cost 14 euro. In the long run, it just makes more sense to self-cater and eat cheaply.

Where Are We Sleeping Tonight?

A big factor in the daily expenses is your lodging. If you’re trying to get by on $100 a day, a hotel is out of the question. The cheapest hostel you’ll find will cost you 20 euro a day.

Some of these places will include breakfast, which can help on the food situation, but you need to think about the area in which you’re staying.

photo by Jon Brandt

If you get a hostel in the heart of the city, chances are that the markets around you will be more expensive. You should also be prepared for bare-bones accommodation in these cheap hostels. They won’t be absolute dumps, but you won’t be getting as many services for 20 euro as you would in other cities.

There are two options to try to avoid extra expensive hostels. One of them is called Couchsurfing. This is a unique platform for connecting travelers who need a place to stay, but can’t afford to pay for it.

Couchsurfing will not only save you money, but will get you away from hostels for a few days and get you in touch with some locals, who can point out their favorite spots.

The second option is looking in the classifieds before you go for an apartment to rent. Often, on Web sites like Craigslist, people will be looking for someone to rent their apartment while they are away for a few days.

If you’re traveling with a few people, a short-term rental will save you money on hostels and can be a good way to see non-touristy parts of the city.

If You Have Time, Don’t Rush!

Part of the thrill of Paris is simply being there. Since Paris is a city with so much energy and history, you can keep yourself occupied just by walking around and exploring.

Don’t forget to take the time to sit in a garden or park and take in the atmosphere. Activities like that are always free and can often be most memorable.

Community Connection!

Matador is packed with experts who can give you an insider’s perspective on France. Anna Brones explored French wine country and wrote an article about her trip for Traverse – A Weekend on the Route de Vins.

Chris de Paris is (shocker) a native of Paris – currently bound for Mozambique.

Matador is blossoming. Join the community today.

Naturally heated pool, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

If you thought the Caribbean was all about cruise ship and cocktails, think again.

Often bypassed for more touristy destinations, with only 40,000 or so inhabitants, Dominica is small but charming, the ideal spot for a romantic getaway.

Dominica is mountainous, and the towns boast a friendly, rustic elegance. Countless jungle trails lead to waterfalls and steaming hot springs. Don’t expect to lounge in a beach chair; Dominica is all about exploring, getting dirty and embracing romantic discovery.

Orientation

Middleham Falls, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

The Commonwealth of Dominica lies in the middle of the Lesser Antilles, with Guadeloupe to the north and Martinique to the south. Roseau, the capital, is on the southwestern side, facing the Caribbean.

Getting to Dominica can take some planning. There are two airports on the island, Canefield near Roseau and Melville Hall on the northeastern side, but flights can be expensive.

Neighboring islands Martinique and Guadeloupe are better hubs for connecting flights to North America and Europe. From there you can take a ferry through L’Express des Iles, which will take you to the Port of Roseau.

Dominica uses the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD). Many places accept US dollars, but this can lead to confusion and paying more than you need to. In Roseau there are several ATMs which make getting cash easy. Exchange rate (as of April 23, 2008) is 1 USD= 2.67 XCD.

If you stay in a small guesthouse, plan to budget about $30-60 USD per night for a double. Eco-lodges and resorts run a little more expensive and can range anywhere from $50-$250 per night for a double.

Dominican Hospitality

Strangers will greet you with a friendly smile and an additional “be cool maaan.”

To take advantage of this ambiance, stay in a local guesthouse. Despite a small population, people all over the island open up their houses and beds to tourists. You can expect a genuine morning “how are you” and breakfast, complete with a glass of passion fruit or sorrel juice.

In Roseau, your best bets are Ma Bass Guest House and St. James Guest House. For a more romantic getaway, nothing compares with one of the eco-lodges.

Dominica has become a hot spot for the adventurous travelers who stay in charming but authentic rainforest lodges. On the east side of the island, near Rosalie, check out the 3 River Eco Lodge. This lodge also owns the adjacent Rosalie Forest Lodge which can hook you up with a treehouse, a Creole cooking class, or even a local homestay.

Close to popular Trafalgar Falls is Papillote Wilderness Retreat, which offers four hot spring pools and a yard with clucking chickens and preening peacocks.

The Perfect 10 day Itinerary

10 days on a small island can seem like a long time, but once you fall into the chill swing of things you might wish for 10 weeks.

For a good introduction to Dominica, you’ll want to have at least 2 days to hang out and explore Roseau. Stay in the city for 5 nights and use the other days for day-trip excursions.

After you’ve have your fill of “city” living, work your way up north for 2 nights in Calibishie. If you haven’t made it to Portsmouth yet, now is the time.

For your last 3 days, explore the Carib Territory and the eastern side of the island. Take a drive down to La Plaine; this section of road takes you along an impressive section of Atlantic coastline where you’ll feel like you’re in Pirates of the Caribbean.

Relaxing in Roseau

Roseau is tiny by capital city standards, but there’s lots to do. Botanical gardens, zouk music bars, fried chicken, and colorful daily markets are only the beginning.

Roseau can also be used as a base camp; from here you can easily take day trips to Champagne Beach, Scott’s Head, Trafalgar Falls, Emerald Pool, Soufrière Springs, Boiling Lake and maybe even try some whale watching.

Staying in the capital also allows you to take advantage of a variety of restaurants and bars after a day of exploring; what better way to enjoy a strenuous day’s hike than drinking a fresh Kubuli while watching the sun set over the Caribbean Sea?

Valley of Desolation, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

Welcome to the Jungle

If you’re in the mood for something more secluded, reserve a few days for a stay in the jungle; there’s nothing more romantic than holing up in the heart of tropical trees and waterfalls.

Dominica’s various lodges and cabins are ideal for this; you’ll be nestled into your own tropical wonderland, free to explore the surrounding areas. If the beach is calling you, make your way up to the fishing village of Calibishie, which features the only sand beach on the island.

Here you can spend a few days lounging around and taking part in the local fishing life, complete with seafood dinner with a view.

Take time to plan for some of the top excursions that are Dominican favorites: Boiling Lake, Scott’s Head which is known for some excellent diving and snorkeling, the Carib Territory – home to the indigenous population of Dominica – and finally, the northern city of Portsmouth and Fort Shirley.

Hot Springs and Waterfalls

Maybe the most romantic aspect of Dominica is the plethora of waterfalls and hot springs. Known as the “nature island” Dominica offers a pristine Caribbean wilderness. In fact, Dominica is the only island in the Lesser Antilles with a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Most of Dominica’s environmental attractions are in Mornes Trois Pitons National Park and therefore require an eco-tourism site pass. Single site passes can be purchased for $5 XCD, usually close to the site. Unlimited week passes are $26 XCD.

From Roseau you can reach most of the major waterfalls and outdoor attractions, although some take longer hikes to get to than others.

Trafalgar is the closest to the capital and therefore the most crowded; go in the morning to avoid the mid-day crowds that flock in from harbored cruise ships.

For a more secluded hike, put Middleham Falls on your list. The most popular trail access is from Laudat and consists of a winding jungle path that takes you through the depths of the Caribbean flora and fauna before arriving at the impressive Middleham Falls.

Because of the longer hike to get to the falls, Middleham is less frequented.

On the east side of the island you will find hikes to both Sari Sari and Victoria Falls; both are classified as medium to difficult, but well worth the effort. Keep in mind that the trails can often be slippery and tiring; you’ll need sturdy shoes and some sustenance.

Pick up a few baguettes, fresh fruit and a loaf of homemade banana bread at one of the local stores before hitting the trail.

Volcanoes and Spas

Emerald Pool, Photo by Mikael Lavogiez

Beyond waterfalls, Dominica is one of the youngest islands in the Lesser Antilles, meaning that its volcano base is constantly changing the landscape.

Active volcanoes mean a wealth of natural hot and sulfur springs scattered around the island. One of the island’s favorite natural hot springs is Screw Spas in Wotten Waven – just up the valley from Roseau – run by a quirky man with dreads and a constant smile.

For more luxurious spa destinations check out Rainforest Paradise, Jungle Bay Resort and Spa and Rainforest Shangri-La Resort which offer luxurious specialties like aromatherapy massages, mud scrubs and yoga.

Chowing Down

With all the physical activity that your Dominican adventure will entail, there’s no question you will build up an appetite. The staple Dominican diet consists of a hearty amount of chicken, rice, plantain and manioc root.

Roseau offers a variety of restaurants from traditional Caribbean to Chinese. Fresh fruit is served as is or pressed into juices, and you can’t come away from Dominica without a new addiction to passion fruit juice.

For a quick bite, many roadside “snackettes” offer a selection of meat pies and sandwiches; the best ones made with a codfish. These are often the best places to get the low-down on local life. Stop in, buy a sandwich and a local Kubuli beer and prepare for a story.

Getting Around

Mini-van ‘buses’ run often and are dependable. If you want to explore independently at a slow pace, renting a car is a good way to go. Remember that Dominicans drive on the left side of the road.

Dominican law requires a Dominican driver’s license, which costs $12 XCD. Pick one up at the car rental agencies. Keep in mind that 4 wheel drive vehicles are helpful but not necessary, but beware of the many potholes which cover the roadways, and you’ll be driving on the left hand side of the road!

Other sources of information

Once you start doing some research, you will find that many Dominican websites look like they were made in the early 90s; don’t hold it against them, the information they contain is up to date and helpful. Good places to start are A Virtual Dominica, Discover Dominica and Visit Dominica.

You can also check out Dominica: The Nature Island of the Caribbean an online book which I designed and wrote last spring.

Community Connection!

Having hitchhiked across the Caribbean, Matador traveler anthonygatti knows his stuff about a lot of the islands. Deva has spent the last month in Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, giving a good insider perspective to Caribbean travel that doesn’t include cruise ships.

Photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

From the lonely shores of Changlang Beach on the Thai mainland, the view is of a calm sea dotted with craggy, verdant isles. As the sun sets, the receding tide barely laps the shell-studded sands while locals wade in placid waters, trailing fishing nets.

It’s a wonderfully languid scene, epitomizing the perennial laid-back vibe of this province way down on the western coast of Thailand

Tranquil Trang

Trang (pronounced ‘Dtrang’ with a hard consonant) encompasses an area with a 120-mile coastline as well as 47 islands stretching from the lower Andaman Sea to the Straits of Malacca.

The provincial capital of Trang was once a bustling port, attracting Fukien Chinese settlers at the turn of the 20th century.

Although the town moved thirty miles inland due to flooding, it retains charming outside influences in its architecture, temples, and food; the latter includes a unique breakfast consisting of strong coffee (‘kopii’) laced with condensed milk, dim sum, and hot soymilk.

Unlike nearby Phuket or Krabi, Trang has been spared from rampant development, thanks to a vibrant local economy not dependent on tourism.

Trang will probably remain pristine, given that two thirds of the province, replete with lushly forested hills, white sand beaches, limestone caves, and waterfalls, has been designated as national parkland.

Trang sustained relatively little damage from the 2004 tsunami, although on Muk and Libong islands, tidal waves destroyed fishing boats and homes.

Today, the only readily visible indications of the devastating event are tsunami escape route signs posted throughout coastal areas.

The islands beckon during the sultry month of April, especially if your idea of paradise includes getting back to basics. The Changlang beachfront has no vendors, Internet cafes, and fast foods joints, and the islands hold promise of even more blissfully simplistic surroundings.

Island Idyll

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

You could spend months exploring all the islands of Trang. But for starters, there are five larger ones off the coast that are regularly serviced by ferries from the mainland: Muk, Kradan, and Hai in the north, and Libong and Sukorn in the south. For easy island hopping, hire your own long-tail boat with an operator/guide.

Ko Muk

Ko Muk is the most well known, not because of its sun-drenched beaches or Muslim fishing village, but because of an intriguing natural formation located on the uninhabited side of the island.

Called the Emerald Cave (‘Tham Morakot’), its name becomes obvious once you swim through a concealed tunnel that breaks into a green lagoon fringed by white sand and contained by tall limestone cliffs framing a patch of sky.

The cave is only accessible during low tide, and a guide will be especially handy as you may bobble for 260 feet in pitch darkness, depending on when you go. Plan carefully; otherwise, you may be stuck inside until the tide goes down.

Ko Kradan

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

Ko Kradan holds the Guinness Book of World Record for the largest underwater wedding, where couples (and diving enthusiasts) exchange vows and sign marriage certificates under the sea every Valentine’s Day.

Aside from this quirky, fun-loving extravaganza, Ko Kradan boasts some of the best snorkeling spots in the deep azure waters off its cliffs.

Schools of brilliant fish weave around pink sea fan and rounded brain coral, and other multicolored sea life.

Ko Libong

Nature lovers will enjoy Ko Libong, Trang’s largest island and sanctuary to a variety of local and migratory birds. It is also home of the dugong, or manatee, that feed off of the island’s sea grass beds. The timid mammal is now endangered, and sightings are extremely rare.

Ko Sukorn, Ko Hai, and the uninhabited isles in between are less frequented, but offer hidden reefs and quiet spots for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking.

Island Living

Accommodations are readily available on Muk, Kradan, Hai, Libong, and Sukorn islands, ranging from spartan to more kitted-out bungalows. Mid-range to luxury hotels can be found on the mainland. Check sites such as www.hotelthailand.net for an extensive listing of places to stay.

While there is no bad time to visit, the drier months from December to April are considered the high season, reflected in higher hotel rates and visitor numbers. If you’re on a budget (or slightly misanthropic), go during the monsoon season from May to October. Sunshine is still aplenty, and short bursts of rain offer relief from the heat.

While food choices are an eclectic mix of Thai, Chinese, Muslim, and international fare, there is not a wide range of dining venues. At hotels, food and drink prices tend to be on the high side, compared to the mainland. However, the seafood cannot be fresher, and you can usually grill the catch of the day to your own liking.

You can also visit the many Muslim fishing villages in the area for inexpensive meals and possible accommodations.

There isn’t much in terms of nightlife outside of open-air resort bars and the occasional impromptu beach party. Expect mellow evenings spent sipping beer while watching karaoke or bonding with fellow travelers.

Getting There

photo by Voralak Suwanvanichkij

Nok Air, the low-cost affiliate of Thai Airways, flies directly from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Trang every day. Weekday fares are cheaper (starting from $60 one way, 80-minutes) and bookings can be made online.

Two “express” trains leave Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Railway Station every evening. Second class sleeper fare starts at $17 and the 540-mile journey takes 15 hours. Click here for train information.

Buses also depart regularly from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal on Pinklao-Nakorn Chaisi Road. Click here for bus information.

Once you’re in Trang, get on a taxi or ‘song thaew,’ a pickup fitted with narrow wooden benches and tin roof, bound for one of the piers (if you’ve opted for train travel, you’ll already be near Kantang pier).

Certain piers are much closer to some island groups: Pakmeng, Chaomai, and Kuantunku piers are north, nearer to Ko Muk and surrounding isles; Kantang and Taseh piers are south, closer to Ko Libong and Ko Sukorn.

Ferries depart regularly and a one-way ticket costs from $4 to $10, depending on your destination. If traveling in a group, it may be just as cost-effective (and faster) to charter your own long-tail boat at the pier.

Alternately, you can get to the mainland or islands from Phuket, Krabi, Ko Lanta, and other nearby provinces. Check with local travel agents for options.

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are backpacking in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

The awesome SE Asia travel website TravelFish has a solid Trang travel guide.

Justin88 is traveling in South East Asia until he runs out of money, currently bound for Malaysia. Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Malbec and Mountains. Photo by Nicole Heyman

After a week in Buenos Aires dancing the tango and discovering just how delicious a malbec can be, it’s time to head to Mendoza to visit Argentina wine country.

Mendoza produces what is widely considered the best malbec in the world. Even though tons of foreign investment has poured in over the last few years, the commercialization of wine tourism has not yet caught up with the newfound popularity.

Visiting wineries in Mendoza is still an adventure, with the possibility of getting up close and personal with the winemaking process. Walk through the madness of crush during the peak of the harvest and you can see, touch, and taste the grapes as they make their transformation into wine.

Arriving In Wine Country

An overnight bus or quick 1 1/2 hour plane ride from B.A. will leave you face to face with the dramatic snow capped Andes. This towering mountain range protects the vines, while the runoff from its peaks irrigates the arid land.

Head straight to Aristedes Villanueva, the nexus of happening hostels and outdoor restaurants. Damajuana Hostel is a good pick for its clean, bright rooms; nice sized pool with adjoining ping pong table; attentive and friendly staff; and overall festive atmosphere (50 pesos/ $15 USD per night). Other guesthouses to consider are Break Point and Itaka House.

Wine Tasting Time

Start your wine education at Vines of Mendoza in the center of town, where you can sample a selection of the region’s best. The tasting room here gives a solid introduction to the Mendoza wine scene through guided pours.

I opted for ¨Los Malbec,¨ (45 pesos) a side-by-side tasting of the region’s infamous grape produced in 5 different styles. Continue tasting at Winery, a cooperative chain wine store, started in Buenos Aires.

Located just off the main plaza in a charming colonial building, one of the few that survived the devastating 1861 earthquake, Winery has a hip restaurant and a new center called ¨wine point¨ which focuses on tastings and seminars.

Further Afield

Photo by longhorndave

The route around Mendoza to visit wineries can be large and overwhelming, but with the right map and a bit of planning, it is easily navigable.

Splurge on the wine map, ¨caminos de las bodegas,¨ (30 pesos) found at any main wine store to begin planning your tour. You´ll find a set of 3 maps conveniently breaking down the three main wine destination areas: Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu, and Valle de Uco.

Plan on fitting 3 to 4 wineries into a day’s visit, since each bodega tour lasts an hour to an hour and a half. Many wineries are open to the public without reservation, but it’s best to call at least a day ahead to secure a booking.

You don´t want to make the same mistake I did, showing up to a winery ready for a day of fun only to be rejected by a gun-toting guard at the front gate.

Lujan de Cuyo

Begin your wine tour in Lujan, the closest region to Mendoza city, and the one with the highest concentration of quality wineries, not to mention the sunniest climate.

Wake up early to watch the clouds part over your first vineyard stop of the day, perhaps a traditional style adobe winery like Hacienda de la Plata or Lagarde. These historic buildings are rare since most were demolished in the earthquake, and new regulations don´t permit building with adobe.

For a stellar tour make your way to the larger production Tapiz winery. After a horse-drawn carriage ride through the vines, veteran tour guide Caroline will bring you into the vineyard to taste the difference between the ripe berries of malbec, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and merlot; show you how their leaves vary in shape and color.

The tour ends with tank samples of juice that is in the process of being fermented into wine.

After two wine tours and an early morning buzz, it’s time for lunch, and several bodegas offer a sumptuous feast. My favorite, Ruça Malen, serves a 5 course gourmet interpretation of traditional fare, paired with their line of malbec, in the middle of the vineyards. Only a glass wall separates diners from the surrounding vines (90 pesos).

The Best Wine In Mendoza?

The author working in a Mendoza winery. Nicole Heyman

Achaval Ferrer produces the region’s highest scoring wine, and is also regarded by tourists and locals alike as the crème de la crème.

Here you will see the specially selected grapes gravity-fed into all-cement tanks. Their philosophy is that cement gives the most consistent temperature control, where open fermentation is conducted to bring out all of the flavors of the wine.

Even though they are in the heart of an area subject to hailstorms, the Achaval Ferrer team would rather risk losing all of their crop one year, than reduce the amount of sunshine — and therefore potentially the quality of the grape — by installing protective netting.

High standards and an excellent tour complete with barrel tasting of their exclusive wines make this winery an absolute must visit.

Round off the day with another version of ultra modern at Pulenta Estate. Here they employ all three methods of fermentation–barrel, tank, and cement—depending on the desired style and vintage.

Although once inside you might feel like you are on a space ship surrounded by aliens instead of in a tasting room surrounded by barrels, a sip of their ripe and clean sauvignon blanc will bring you right back down to earth.

Alta Vista, Vistalba, and Catena Zapata are other noteworthy wineries to visit in Lujan de Cuyo for their architecture and tasting rooms.

Maipu

For day two of wine touring, change the pace by throwing a bicycle into the equation. This is easy in Maipu where vendors have created bike and wine tours.

Since the wineries in Maipu are fewer and the area to cover less vast, biking is an ideal way to get around. The roads are scenic, especially those just off the main drag of Urquiza, lined with trees that once acted as a shady cover for the grapes being transported to and from the winery.

The streets can get a bit dusty — after all this is the desert — so go prepared with lots of water, sunscreen, and sunglasses.

A smart plan of attack for the day is to rent your bikes at the beginning of town where the bus lets you off (a 45 minute ride on #10 from city center), then head straight to the far end of Maipu. This way you limit your mileage the more you drink.

Start at Carinae, a quaint boutique winery owned by a French couple, and named after a constellation only visible during grape harvest. From here, it’s only a short journey down the road to Tempus Alba, where you can sit outside and enjoy some artisanal cheese and wine perched atop the vines at their outdoor terrace wine bar.

Many bikers dine at the gourmet Almacen del Sur, conveniently located in the middle of the bike route. I opted for Casa de Campo, a small country style restaurant serving home-made local fare like wild rabbit and suckling pig.

If you´re thirsting for more, La Rural is a grand old winery back at the beginning of Maipu with an extensive wine museum, where you can witness the revolution in technology and winemaking from a century ago.

Valle de Uco

Photo by ANOXLOU

Valle de Uco is about an hour south of Mendoza by direct bus, and is considered the up and coming wine region. The valley is known for greater temperature variation between day and night, creating thicker grape skins and in turn more complexity in the wine.

Many wineries have vineyards in all three regions, as a sort of security against hail and poor vintages. It’s common to create a blend from the different regions, although estate-single vineyard wines are also coming into fashion, catering to a discerning clientele.

Three state of the art wineries worth visiting for their striking architecture and wine are Andeluna, O´Fournier, and Salentein. Keep in mind that the distances between these wineries are great, so you´ll need a car or taxi to get around even if you bus it down to the Valle.

The perfect marriage between food and wine always discussed in culinary circles is brought to life at O´Fournier where the owner of the bodega is married to the chef of the restaurant. Needless to say, the food and wine pairing here is harmonious.

Salentein also boasts an excellent restaurant. Once you’ve completed a day in the Valle de Uco, you’ve covered the best of Mendoza wine country. You can return to wherever you came from full and buzzed, with back vintages of wine that would never show up at a wine store back home.

Community Connection!

For more on sipping vino in Mendoza, check out Christian Denes’ article on MatadorTravel, Mendoza’s Secret or for a comical take on Maipu’s ‘wine and bike’ tours, check out this blog. Mendoza is also the jump-off place for big adventures such as rapelling, climbing Mt. Aconcagua or skiing in nearby Las Leñas.

For the very latest on Matador in Argentina, check out our Destinations section.

Photo by Jenny Williams

My boyfriend and I were walking too fast our first day on Caye Caulker.

“What de hurry, man?” teased a dark-skinned, dreadlocked youth, grinning from the shade of a dive shop. “On de Caulker, you go slow.”

It wasn’t just a suggestion, as we soon learned: “Go Slow” is the formal motto of the island. With the aid of swaying hammocks, cheap rum, and the sparkling green-blue waters of the Caribbean Sea, it’s not hard to see why.

Blissed-Out Belize

photo by Jenny Williams

Geographically, Belize and its islands belong to Central America, but Belizean people, music, and food are more closely aligned with the Caribbean than with neighboring Mexico or Guatemala.

English and Creole are the two lingua francas, and Belizean people claim a mixture of cultures as diverse as Mestizo, Maya, Creole, Garifuna, and Mennonite.

In Belize, Caye Caulker is second only to resort-y Ambergris Caye in terms of tourism, but it has retained a small-island vibe that’s second to none in terms of charm.

Except during the Christmas and Easter holidays, crowds are so minimal that it’s not uncommon to be the only guest at your hotel for days at a time.

The town is intimate enough that you’ll soon be on familiar terms with the waitress at your favorite breakfast haunt, and it’s developed enough to support Internet cafes and WiFi hotspots.

The island’s blissfully car-free streets are quiet except for the occasional hum of a golf cart, the leisurely rattle of a bicycle, the faint tune of a Bob Marley track, or the yap-yap of tiny dogs (the Chihuahua-to-person ratio here is off the charts).

Houses are splashed in brash tropical hues, electric yellows and blues and pinks; iguanas sun themselves along the roadsides and pelicans hover overhead.

Slow, Not Lazy

photo by Jenny Williams

Though it’s entirely possible to go so slow that you cease moving altogether except to rouse yourself for BBQ and booze, some of Caye Caulker’s best features do require a little motivation on your part—and they’re well worth it.

If you get bored here, it’s nobody’s fault but your own.

For adventure junkies, kite-boarding and wind-surfing lessons happen just offshore, and you can get your PADI open water certification for as little as $250 (one of the cheapest programs in the world).

Kayaks and fishing poles are available for rent, or you can organize a deep-sea fishing tour with any number of local operators. For nature-lovers, Swallow Caye hosts dozens of native birds, and Caulker conservation celebrity “Chocolate” Heredia runs highly recommended tours to see endangered manatees in nearby mangrove swamps.

Snorkeling at the world’s second-longest barrier reef is Caye Caulker’s main attraction.

The most popular trips include visits to Hol Chan Marine Reserve off Ambergris Caye (presenting up-close-and-personal encounters with sea turtles, Green Moray Eels, Spotted Eagle Rays and more), and Shark-Ray Alley, where you can swim with Nurse Sharks and giant stingrays.

Raggamuffin Tours operates excellent half-day and full-day snorkeling trips (including lunch, a real sailboat, and mixed-en-route rum punch on the ride home).

They also offer three-day sailing adventures from Caye Caulker to Placencia in Southern Belize, during which passengers make camp on uninhabited islands and get the chance to swim in pristine Caribbean waters.

If you’re only interested in white sandy beaches (and the inevitable spring break crowd), look elsewhere; while there are a few scattered swimming areas, most of the shoreline around the town is outfitted with rickety wooden piers to accommodate the many fishing and sailing boats.

Slow Food

photo by Jenny Williams

Meals will be your biggest expense on Caye Caulker, but if you’re willing to splurge, you can get heaping plates of freshly grilled seafood with veggies and other tasty side dishes along the beachfront (up to $10 per person).

Rose’s Café does great grills and sells ice-cold beer to boot. For special occasions, Habanero’s serves outstanding international and Belizean dishes ($15 to $30) in a rustic balcony setting.

Cheaper options include the Sandbox for burgers ($3.50) and Syd’s for Mexican fare ($2 burritos). A must for the budget-conscious, Glenda’s Bakery and Cafe serves delicious cinnamon rolls (25 cents) and scrumptious burritos ($1.50) out of a cozy blue house away from the main drag.

Slow Dancing

photo by Jenny Williams

The Lazy Lizard—right on the Split, where you can drink a beer while dipping your toes in the water—boasts sweet sunset views and great people-watching.

The cheapest mixed drinks, including the infamous Panty Ripper (pineapple juice and coconut rum), are made with Belizean rum and go half-price ($1.50) during happy hour.

Having conducted a thorough survey of Pina Coladas all over the island, I can confidently say that the Sandbox owns the number one spot; other good bets are Happy Lobster, Agave, and I-I.

The latter is also the best-known nightclub on the island, with three stories of solid reggae beats and a breezy rooftop with swings and hammocks; on a busy night, Oceanside Club can also give the ol’ I-I a run for its money.

Slow In Bed

There’s no shortage of clapboard hotels and beachside cabanas on Caye Caulker, though some options are far better than others.

Private cabanas on stilts ($15-25) offer respite from irksome sandflies, and be sure to check a few different rooms in each hotel, as windowless closet-sized holes sometimes cost the same as the ones with a view.

When a short visit turns into a week, and a week turns into months (as it did for me and my boyfriend), furnished apartments are widely available—just ask around.

Arrivals and Departures

Despite countless vows that you’re “leaving tomorrow,” there will actually come a day when it becomes necessary to rejoin the world beyond the Caye.

Ferries ($15 one way, 45 minutes long) run every few hours between Belize City and Caye Caulker, and from Caulker it’s not far to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye.

There’s an airstrip south of the main drag, but flights are pricey; you’re better off flying or busing in and out of Belize City and coming by boat.

For more information, Go Caye Caulker and Cyber Caye Caulker are good places to start, and Toucan Trail provides detailed listings for budget hotels across Belize.

Community Connection!

Matador traveler ameenehan makes some solid suggestions on her Seven Days in Belize trip guide.

I’m also happy to give advice or meet up if any travelers are headed this way—I’m living on Caye Caulker through June 2008, so send me a message through Matador and I’ll hook you up.

The first time I went to Iguazú Falls I was in love.

I had just fallen for a boy named Ed who promised me he would show me the world. In the end he did just that, but the trip to Iguazú was our first together. This is probably why I tell everyone who asks me about Argentina to visit Iguazú and the red province of Misiones.

Photo by Lucia Byttebier

There’s something ancient and magical about this corner of northern Argentina, tucked between Paraguay and Brazil.

The indigenous Guaraní people who populated these lands in pre-Columbian times left their spirit behind in the crimson earth, steaming jungles and raging river waters.

It was here that Ed and I discovered a part of Argentina we had never experienced before, even though both of us are native Argentines. Our trip to Misiones opened our hearts – and sent us tumbling into each other’s arms.

A Legend Of Young Lovers

Old Guaraní legends tell of the monstrous serpent who lived in the Iguazú River. Every year Guaraní tribesmen would sacrifice a young virgin and throw her into the furious waters for the serpent.

Guaraní tribes from far and wide were invited to attend the ceremony, but one year, a young chieftain by the name of Tarobá laid eyes upon the beautiful virgin, Naipí, who had been chosen for the sacrificial rite.

Taroba fell in love with Naipi on the spot and tried to convince the council of elders to free her from her doom. Defeated, he decided to capture his love and escape with her by moonlight in a canoe.

Tragically, the serpent saw the lovers escape and became enraged, lashing her tail with such force that the river split apart, the earth broke open and the mighty Iguazú Falls were formed.

Destinations

Community Connection to Argentina

Wanting to remain together forever, Taropá’s spirit was transformed into the trees that guard the falls, while Naipí’s long hair became the water that eternally cascades down.

The nearby town of Puerto Iguazú offers a good variety of accommodation for every type of budget. Backpackers and young travelers will find Los Helechos hostel a fitting retreat with air conditioned rooms among bird-filled gardens and a small but convenient swimming pool.

Beyond Iguazu

Iguazú Falls is spectacular. Go. You will be blown away.

Photo by Lucia Byttebier

But remember – Iguazu isn’t the only attraction in Misiones. To truly open your heart to the ancient magic of the red province, you need to get off the tourist trail. Here are some insider tips to hush-hush destinations:

Jesuit Mission Ruins

Jesuit missionaries arrived in South America in the 17th century during the Spanish colonization to convert the Guarani to Christianity.

The missions they built here were not meant to enslave the indigenous natives, but to protect the land and its people from slave-hunters working for more mercenary European colonists.

Today baroque walls of red sandstone stand amidst lush green fields in San Ignacio.

As one ventures near, the exquisite marriage of European religious architecture and Guarani artistry is clear, with indigenous carvings of river-snakes intertwined with elegant classical ornamentation.

San Ignacio is protected by UNESCO, but there are other Jesuit reductions nearby that are kept by local organizations, such as Santa Ana and Nuestra Señora de Loreto.

Both of these ancient ruins are half-eaten by the jungle: roots and canopies invade the old stone walls in a silent struggle to reclaim the land.

Photo by Lucia Byttebier

Santa Ana has been left as found without the preservation works that were undertaken at San Ignacio. Here, the vestiges of the once busy missions are scattered around the dense jungle floor, where vines and thick branches garland down from stately trees.

Nuestra Señora de Loreto, only about 30 minutes away from Santa Ana, is guarded by an army of quiet lizards who bask in the sun on the ancient mission walls.

There is also a carved pillar here that has been all but eaten up by the bark of a tree. Each year the tree engulfs the pillar a little more, but prying the thick roots away would mean destroying the 400 year old pillar, so the rock and tree remain locked together in a slow embrace.

Caves and Camping

Misiones is all about nature, and there’s no better way to appreciate it than by camping. There are many excellent camping grounds , but the Paraje Tres de Mayo in the district of Garuhapé is the best.

The nearby Indian Cave, which looks out to a natural swimming hole fed by cool waterfalls, is rumored to have been the home to groups of hunters and gatherers who left behind remains of their primitive tools made of shells and bone.

Hikes above and around the cave take you deep within the damp undergrowth where hordes of butterflies rest in red-water puddles.

The water is red because the soil in Misiones has staggering levels of iron, making the earth come alive in shades of flaming terra cotta. The red rapids of the mighty Misiones rivers churn and curl with the richness of minerals.

For Ed and I, the trip to Misiones was about connecting with the raw force of nature, with the people who gave life to this part of Argentina, and most of all, with each other.

For a moment we put our European roots aside, and remembered the original inhabitants of our country. The native red soil of Misiones stuck to our shoes and jeans and hearts.

Community Connection!

Matador members who loved their trip to Iguazu Falls include Morris Abroad, an expert on Buenos Aires, and Helena de Natalio, who creates clothing and accessories in Buenos Aires and travels regularly between BA and San Francisco.