Photo: VivaoPictures

Festival of Freedom

An oversized set of falling dominoes to commemorate the fall of the Berlin Wall will punctuate Berlin’s Festival of Freedom on 9 November 2009. The temporary wall covers 1.5km and runs past the front of the Brandenburg Gate. The dominoes, 2.5 meters tall and weighing 20kg each, were hand painted in colourful fashion by schoolchildren.

Photo: Jim Linwood

A live concert will also provide some entertainment. I couldn’t determine if David “The Hoff” Hasselhoff will be performing, but Bon Jovi definitely is. The festival is set to end with a fireworks display.

The Mauer Mob

British artist Martin Butler’s latest project, “Mauer Mob 2009: Recreating the Berlin Wall”, will temporarily “recreate” the wall using humans instead of concrete and barbed wire. He is looking for 33,000 participants to cover the 46km route (which is segmented into 330 sections).

According to the New York Times, over 9,000 people in social media circles have already shown interest, while the Mauer Mob website shows the number committed approaching 6,000.

If you’re in the area, this would be a fantastic way to participate on the day.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you haven’t already, make sure you head over to Paul Sullivan’s commemorative photo essay, Berlin 20/20: A Photo Tour of a Reunited City.

My wife and I haven’t yet decided how we will celebrate the event here in Melbourne. How will you?

Photo: Eneas

Marigolds, sugar skulls, and tequila-adorned altars — Paz was right. No holiday celebrates death like Día de los Muertos.

Its Aztec roots reach back millennia. Surviving colonial absorption into Catholicism’s All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days, the holiday retains the Aztec idea of death as a continuation of life in a parallel form; souls of the departed have an easier time visiting this world on Día de los Muertos, aided by the ofrendas (altars of offerings) the living set out.

Here’s a roundup of some of the best places to catch a celebration, both traditional and modern:

1. Pátzcuaro, Mexico

The sleepy streets of Pátzcuaro in central Mexico explode during Día de los Muertos week with truck-fulls of marigolds, street stalls selling pan de muerto (sweet bread), and one killer craft market. Look out for signature Catrinas, painstakingly ornate handmade calaca (skeleton) figures.

Photo: AlexPears

The local Purépecha people’s observance retains a more spiritual, traditional aspect than anywhere else — a soulfulness that counterbalances the slew of tourists.

Locally referred to as Noche de los Muertos, all-night graveside vigils are held in the villages surrounding Pátzcuaro on November 1.

In Tzintzuntzan, the next pueblo over, camping families cuddle up and tell stories about deceased loved ones at the foot of candlelit ofrendas. The local cemetery is open to the public, admission is free, and photographs are allowed (remember to be respectful).

Separate observances are held for angelitos — the souls of children. The most well-known occurs on the tiny island of Isla Janitzio in the middle of Lake Pátzcuaro. Mothers of angelitos hold a special procession to the children’s cemetery, while fishermen surround the island in candlelit boats.

As this is a popular observance, the island is uncomfortably full of tourists. Tip: Go after 3am.

2. Mexico City/Mixquic

Mexico D.F. sprouts marigolds and spontaneous streetside ofrendas during Día de los Muertos week. An altar contest is held in the Zócalo (main square) and big-time museums such as Casa Azul, Anahuacalli, and Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño get in the spirit with larger-than-life papier-mâché calaca scenes.

Photo: -Chupacabras-

Major vigils are held at the city’s largest cemeteries, Panteón Civil de Dolores and Bosque de Chapultepec.

Within the urban areas of Mexico City, the holiday is celebrated as a folk tradition, rather than a spiritual or religious affair.

This is not the case in the once-small-town of Mixquic, which has been geographically — but not culturally — swallowed by the southeasterly sprawl of the D.F.

Here, a cardboard coffin leads a candlelit procession through the streets to the town’s graveyards, where families gather to celebrate. Candles remain lit to guide spirits home and midnight bells toll to call them back.

3. San Francisco Bay Area

Día de los Muertos observances in the Bay Area blend the familial focus of its large Latino population with the creativity of its arts community. San Francisco’s Mission District is ground zero for the November 2nd procession and altar exhibit, a 30-plus-year tradition.

Photo: sfmission.com

The free event draws an impressive cross-section of the city’s population and some heavily politicized, artistic works.

Across the Bay, Oakland’s Fruitvale district holds a daytime street fair on the Sunday preceding the holiday. Even with throngs of people and scores of vendors, the vibe is local, with traditional altars and dance performances, radio stations’ speakers throbbing hip-hop, local merchant booths, and some bangin’ Cali-Mex food stands.

Museums around the Bay embrace Día de los Muertos. Altars, events, and exhibits are held at the de Young and Oakland Museums and community galleries like SomArts, Galería de la Raza, and The Crucible.

4. Los Angeles

Nothing may capture LA’s dichotomy of culture quite like the city’s most well-known Day of the Dead celebrations.

On the one side is the Self Help Graphics & Art’s festivities in the Evergreen Cemetery in East LA. This Chicano-centered art collective has been putting on the free November 2nd event since 1972, taking a community-based approach — local artists, residents, youth, and even nuns come together.

Photo: Loren Javier

Of similar authenticity is the Olvera Street Merchants’ nine nightly processions down their historic street in the evenings preceding the holiday, where you can sip free champurrado (a thick Mexican hot chocolate) and munch pan de muerto.

On the other side of the spectrum, across town, is the popular Hollywood Forever Cemetery’s admission-based celebration.

Faint whiffs of tradition mix with hip altars honoring celebrities, overpriced craft vendors, and a heavy taste of commercialization.

The altar contest draws some wryly imaginative creations, though, and the event serves as a fascinating example of the Hollywood-ification of culture.

5. Santiago Sacatepéquez, Guatemala

While the exact connection between Mexico’s Aztec-based Day of the Dead and Guatemala’s Mayan-based version are not totally clear, the parallels are undeniable. Both pre-Columbian holidays were co-opted into the Catholic All Saints’ Day, and both retain a celebratory approach towards death.

Guatemalans take to the graveyards, decorating gravestones in similarly elaborate altars adorned with marigolds.

Photo: rejathor

What sets celebrations in Guatemala apart are the barriletes gigantes — extravagant and enormous kites central to the festivities.

These hand-constructed kites guide the departed souls back to life on November 1. As a link between life and death, they’re covered with special messages and designs to the deceased, written by the living.

Also unique to Guatemala is fiambre, a cheesy cold-meat-salad smorgasbord placed in altars to lure the dead back.

Guatemala’s best Día de los Muertos celebrations are held in the town of Santiago Sacatepéquez, outside of Antigua. Plenty of tourists pile in but, as in Pátzcuaro, celebrations are steeped in tradition, not tourism.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Continue the celebration of death with Graveyard Travel: How to Celebrate Life by Visiting the Dead and How People Celebrate Halloween in Spain.

Also, learn How to Make Sugar Skulls for Dia de los Muertos.

Photo: tinou bao

Every two years, the World Monuments Fund publishes a “watch list” of sites it deems most threatened, whether from encroaching development, global warming, or simple neglect.

The 2010 list has been released, and as Yahoo News reports, two of the more familiar entries are Machu Picchu and Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia cathedral.

As Trips has discussed before, the continued existence of the ruins of Machu Picchu is endangered by the thousands of tourists that visit each day. Erosion of their mountaintop perch could cause sections of the ruins to collapse within the next few years.

Photo: Wolfgang Staudt

Gaudi’s famous uncompleted cathedral faces a different kind of threat.

A proposed high-speed underground train line is planned to run just six feet from the foundation of one portion of the massive church; the vibrations from the passing trains could do considerable damage to the structure.

The monuments fund also reaches beyond big-name sites to single out places with a more local significance. The stone bridges of Connecticut’s Merritt Parkway make the list, as does New Orleans’ St. Louis Cemetery #2 — still in need of restoration following damage from Hurricane Katrina.

Breaking down the list by country, those with the most entries are the U.S. (10), Peru (8), and Spain (6).

The World Monuments Fund partners “with local communities, funders, and governments” to protect these and many other sites, directing 85% of its revenue toward “preservation projects, fieldwork, advocacy, and educational programs.” To help them out, click here.

Community Connection

Many of Matador’s member organizations are dedicated to cultural preservation. Browse their ranks and find out how you can lend a hand.

Sketch above: Masaki Oshiro, All photos: Ryukyu Mike

Imagine, if you can, a festival with no cotton candy, fireworks, rock ‘n’ roll bands, food tents, or people hawking overpriced trinkets. A festival where you can’t spend a dime; there’s nothing for sale. That’s the Shinugu Matsuri.

Where it takes place

Each August, all 250 residents of the village Ada Okinawa — as well as maybe 50 or 60 outsiders — come out for the Shinugu Matsuri.

An unassuming thatched-roof hut stands as the center of things. This is where the event both begins and ends.

The town is a small community with a fishing port and some farms. There are no hotels, shopping malls, convenience stores, churches, bars, or supermarkets. One small mom-and-pop store is where you’ll find a loaf of bread, some canned luncheon meat, and maybe a box of eggs.

The opening ceremony

An ancient woman begins the ceremony by making offerings and praying, first in the hut and then at various small concrete shrines, before walking to the base of a mountain, where the blessing portion of the ceremony concludes.

Only 20 or 30 people with cameras bother to follow the elder through the entire ritual, and other than the family members assisting her, most of the rest are probably curious scholars or tourists.

On the mountain

Males only set off to climb the mountain in small groups of two or three at a time. There are three separate trails leading to three different areas, where the men decorate their bodies with leaves, vines, twigs, and brush from the jungle.

Some are as young as 3 or 4, the oldest likely in their seventies. Each group has an elder who directs the ceremonies, tells the group which way to face for prayers, and leads them in chants while beating a cadence on a large red drum.

Only two quick 20-second prayers are offered. The first goes out to the gods of the mountain. The men bow on their knees and face a higher point in the hills in silent prayer. Next, they shift to face the ocean below and pay their respects to the god of the sea.

After the prayers, a quick adjustment is made to their jungle body decorations, and each picks up a branch of a tree. Circling the area and chanting “Eh, ho, ho,” they stop on cue from the elder with the drum and shake the branches close to the ground, chasing evil spirits away.

On the beach

Coming down the mountain, each band stops at a clearing about halfway to town and repeats the circular march and warding-off of evil spirits. At this point the drums and chants from all three trails can be heard by the villagers below.

Groups of women converge on a bridge crossing the river that leads into town. They offer cold drinks and snap photos of the men, who haven’t been seen in over two hours.

Following this, the whole crowd converges in a field just outside of town. The women make their way to the center and the men from the three trails circle the area, marching to the drum beats and chanting “Eh, ho, ho.”

Then, on a cue from the elders with the drums, the men gently swat the women on the heads with their branches, ridding them of any evil spirits.

Next, everyone marches to the beach where a final prayer is made in the direction of the mountains.

In the ocean

The vines, plants, bushes, and branches from the jungle are stacked in a pile, and the men run into the water, where they cool off from their mountain hike.

After a twenty-minute dip, they find their original trail leader and march to the drums for a quick rinse in the river before returning to the center of the village.

Activity practically ceases for the afternoon at the straw hut and in the town square until just before sundown. Tents along the edge of a field by the hut are stocked with beer and sake, coolers of ice, and some small boxes of food.

An evening of festivities

Just before the sun goes down, several traditional performances take place. One simulates the planting of rice, others fishing and folklore. All participants are dressed in traditional Okinawan clothing. Folk music blares from a stereo system accompanied by drums and sanshin (a 3-stringed instrument).

Those in the audience sit on the sidelines on straw mats, chat, sing, drink, and sometimes jump up and join in for a dance or two. The last few performances consist of some lively tunes where everyone is invited to partake — indeed, those who don’t are frowned upon for not participating.

Well before midnight, the party is over, the music stops, crowds wander home, and only a few hardcore sake drinkers remain.

The next morning there will be Okinawan Sumo and in the evening a repeat performance of traditional dances and folk music.

What’s it all about?

The typical Okinawa family doesn’t belong to any one religion. They worship their ancestors, and they don’t go to a church, synagogue, or mosque to do so.

Religion in the Ryukyu Islands is a combination of Buddhist, Confucian, Shinto, and animist beliefs. Offerings are made to ancestors on a daily basis and money is donated to no powerful religion or figure.

Maybe the world’s political and religious leaders should attend a Shinugu Matsuri and study the culture behind it.

These people have no organized religion; nor do they go to war.

Community Connection

If you’re thinking of heading to next year’s Shinugu Matsuri, don’t forget to check out 10 Great Outdoor Events in Okinawa and The Traveler’s Guide to Okinawan Dialect.

Photo: Marcel Masferrer Pascual

For two days (this year October 3-4), Taybeh is host to Palestine’s Oktoberfest — a celebration of Palestinian music, culture, and…well, beer. Taybeh is a Christian village in the West Bank, 35 kms north of Jerusalem and home to the now international Taybeh Brewery.

Wha…who…how?

The Taybeh Brewery was founded in 1994 by Nadim Khoury, who first began brewing his own suds in the late ’70s while studying at Boston’s Hellenic College. Besides the region’s Jewish-Arab conflict, Mr. Khoury also had to contend with the fact that 95% of his potential customers were Muslim, a faith that prohibits alcohol consumption.

Obviously, the quality speaks for itself. Today, Taybeh beer is brewed under license in Germany (it conforms to the purity law 1516) for the European market. In Japan, the brew has a loyal following and you can even find it in Jerusalem on tap at some bars.

Fifth edition

This year’s Okotoberfest is the fifth annual event and one that brings together Israelis and Palestinians as well as international tourists. Tens of thousands partake in the festival, where you can eat local foods and buy products like olive oil, honey, and cakes as well as crafts made by local artisans.

If you’re in Jerusalem or Tel Aviv at the time, you can organize a tour to Taybeh for both days of the festival. Complimentary tours of the brewery are also given. Call ahead if you’re in a large group (02-289-8868).

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For some reading on this conflicted region, check out Waging Peace: Israeli Mother and Palestinian Soldier Unite and Bullets and Backpackers: Political Tourism Hits the West Bank.

If you’re more keen on the traditional Oktoberfest in Munich, make sure you read A First Timer’s Guide to Oktoberfest.

All photos: Ryukyu Mike

1. The Kin Mud Festival

Children celebrate their Spring Break (better known as Golden Week in Japan — late April to early May) at this event in Kin Village. A rice paddy is flooded and everyone frolics in the mud under colorful carp streamers.

Live bands, popular singers, dance groups, and typical fair activities take place, lasting well into the night. The highlight of the event is a group photo of unrecognizable, mud-encrusted participants at the end of the day.

The Japanese name for a mud festival is drunku asobu, and these go off in many locations around the island during warm weather.

2. Naha Dragonboat Races

While virtually every fishing village on the island holds a haari (dragonboat) race, Naha City hosts the largest and most colorful boats.

Crews of thirty rowers power the monster craft while crowds in the tens of thousands party and cheer them on from shore.

This three-day festival (another Golden Week event) also consists of live bands, street dances, plenty of food and drink, and fireworks displays each night. Foreigners are not only welcome; they’re invited to join in the rowing!

3. Urasoe Festival (Tedako Matsuri)

Another three-day event in central Okinawa, the Tedako Matsuri (Children of the Sun) festival happens each year around the middle of July, on an athletic field halfway up the hill to Urasoe Castle.

Sumo and soccer competitions are held, while Eisa dancers, Taiko drummers, and pop bands provide entertainment. A brilliant fireworks display wraps things up on Sunday evening.

4. Kin Matsuri

In late July, Kin Village draws crowds you’ll typically only see in the larger cities with this two-day festival.

Martial arts demonstrations, sumo, live bands, and top-notch Eisa groups are accompanied by several shishimai (human-powered lion-dogs) that perform antics onstage before jumping into the crowd to snap their wooden jaws at spectators.

5. Kanna Dam Matsuri

The Kanna Dam festival takes place in late July on the northern end of the island near Ginoza. It attracts some of the finest Okinawan mineo (folk music) bands and singers on the island.

Far from any major city, parking is no problem on the acres of well-manicured grounds surrounding the dam.

Local farmers and fishermen provide charcoal-grilled chicken and fish, as well as drinks, at bargain prices.

6. Friendship Festivals

The U.S. Army, Navy, Air Force, and Marines are tenants on eight bases located throughout the island, and each one opens its gates to the public for at least one big annual event.

During these Friendship Festivals, cultural exchange takes place, with each country showcasing its music, dance, sports, food, and drink and gaining a better understanding of its neighbors.

7. Nago Dragonboat Races

The dragonboat races in Nago City fall during the first week of August and over 150 teams from around the world compete, making it the largest haari event on the island.

Not only is food and drink less expensive at this festival than most, but many of the rowing teams will actually invite you into their tents to share the goodies they brought with them.

8. 10,000 Eisa Dancers Parade

For one long weekend every August, the International Avenue in Naha shuts down for a parade of 10,000 Eisa dancers. Taiko drummers and dancers in brightly colored garments perform for thousands of spectators as they march the mile length of the avenue.

Each village has its own portable loudspeaker system blasting traditional music, its own distinct style of clothing, and a pennant representing its district, strung from a large bamboo pole.

9. Full Moon Festival

Held in September and similar to harvest moon festivals in other cultures, this event takes place in Kin Village. Classical dances and shishimai entertain the crowd seated before an outdoor stage under a full moon.

As parking is limited, most people walk to and from the event and massive quantities of alcohol are consumed.

Local musicians provide song and music with their sanshin (a three-stringed instrument) and instead of fireworks, the lion-dog chases the crowd away once the party’s over.

10. Naha Tug-O-War

Each October Naha City’s Highway 58 hosts this event, which holds the Guinness World Record for the largest rope made of natural materials. It weighs over 40 tons.

Somewhere around 15,000 people are involved in the tug, with teams divided between residents of eastern and western city districts, and some 200,000 spectators show up to watch. When the war is over, the rope is hacked apart and strands are given out as good luck souvenirs.

The festival takes place October 10-12 this year, but the actual tug-o-war will be held on the 11th.

Further Info

Due to unpredictable weather on this near-tropical island, it’s wise to confirm events beforehand if you plan to attend. A great (English-language) resource is japanupdate.com. Try the website’s search feature when looking for more details about any of these festivals.

Community Connection

If you’re headed to any of these events, don’t forget to brush up on the local tongue with The Traveler’s Guide to Okinawan Dialect.

While in Japan, you’ll also want to be ordering sushi like a local. Make sure you read Turner Wright’s How to Order Sushi Like a Ninja.

For more on the author of this post, check out Introducing: Okinawa Wildlife Photographer.

Photo: Johan Larsson

Exploring the windy roads and rolling hills of France’s countryside in Cognac is a great trip in itself, but add some time with the beverage of royalty and you’ve got a unique experience.

Here are some things to do while in the region:

Photo: mayhem2006

Sleep in a chateau

The Cognac region has no shortage of accommodation options. If you’re looking for something in the center of town, check out the Hotel Francois.

For more atmosphere, the area is home to countless chateaus. A step above a B&B, chateaus are reasonably priced at around 100 € per night. Two worth a look are Chateau de L’Yeuse — where you can sip tea on a terrace while overlooking the hills — and Chateau Saint Martial, with private jacuzzis in the rooms.

Stroll through the town

The Charente River gives the towns of Cognac and Jarnac their quaint riverside feel. While you can easily spend all your time in the cafes and shops, there is much more. The Musee des arts du Cognac has a history of the town and its famous brandy, as well as art collections donated by local families.

A walk through Vieux Cognac and the town’s walls at the Chateau and Saint-Jacques Gates will take you back in time.

To rest your feet, hop on the local tram. The Tourist and Information Office provides tickets, maps, and walking tour information.

Photo: JarnaQuais

With the Atlantic Ocean only a two-hour drive away (the beach town of La Rochelle is highly recommended if you have time), seafood is available in abundance. Petits gris à la charentaise (snails) is a local delicacy, as is cognac-flavored Bavarian cream.

Learn about cognac

The BNIC (Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac) is an organization of 5,000 cognac merchants from the region, where 96% of the world’s cognac is produced.

Six areas are distinguished by their soil: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. When it was discovered the grapes in these areas were not suitable for fine wine, brandy was born. And when the distillers began to blend the brandy at different stages, cognac was created.

Although the basic process is simple, it is time consuming. It all begins with one litre of wine. After aging for 20 years, two-thirds is left. After an additional 30 years, half a litre remains. 100 years on you have just 10% of the original, and this is known as eau-de-vie (water of life) — the principal ingredient of cognac.

The three major types — VS – Very Special; VSOP – Very Superior Old Pale; and Napoleon XO – Extra Old — come from the differences in the process and how the liquids are blended.

The major players

Eighty percent of the world’s cognac comes from just four distilleries: Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin, and Courvoisier. The French government sets the guidelines and regulates the use of pesticides and harvesting times.

While Hennessy has its own vineyards, they’re more for testing purposes as the company uses nearly 2,000 growers to make their cognac. Since Irishman Richard Hennessy began his own company in the early 1700s, Hennessy has remained a family business, joining Moet & Chandon Champagne in 1971 to form Moet Hennessy.

Photo: jessicafm

Jean Martell, who came from the island of Jersey, set up his company in 1715, making Martell the oldest of the cognac producers. On the grounds of the distillery is the Founder’s House, open to visitors and full of old documents and photos dating back to Jean Martell’s early days.

Remy Martin has been making cognac since 1724 and today produces 1.8 million cases per year. They also established the house of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne 60 years later. In the Cognac region, they operate Les Rendez-vous Remy Martin, where visitors can create packages that include everything from a picnic on the grounds to personalized tours and stays.

The House of Courvoisier is one of the younger cognac companies, only dating back to the 19th century, when Emmanuel Courvoisier and partner Louis Gallois turned their wine and spirit company in Bercy into a cognac dynasty, all thanks to a man named Napoleon. It was Napoleon III who labeled Courvoisier the “Official Supplier to the Imperial Court.”

Sample the drink

All of the major cognac companies offer distillery tours and tastings. Tours can also be arranged for some of the smaller cognac vineyards.

Destinations

Community Connection to France

Although most people will tell you that cognac should be drunk neat, 70% of it is used in mixed drinks. The BNIC lists a few interesting choices including Cognac Summit (lime juice, ginger, VSOP cognac, lemonade, and cucumber) and Pink Love (VSOP cognac, raspberry liquor, and champagne).

Getting there

There are flights within Europe to Poitiers and La Rochelle (both under two hours away by car) through Ryan Air. From Paris, it’s about a five-hour drive to the Cognac region.

The three-hour highspeed TGV train ride from Paris’ Montparnasse station (easily accessible from downtown or Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports) to Angouleme puts you just 30 minutes from downtown Cognac.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

While in France, don’t waste your money on the Evian. Drinking tap water is on the rise in the country.

If you’re going to be in Paris as well, Paris, France By the Numbers can give you unique insight on the City of Lights.

Photo: simon.wakefield

The area around the famous Stonehenge monument is littered with prehistoric remnants.

A quick panoramic scan from the parking area alone reveals a dozen or so conspicuous grassed-over mounds dotting the surrounding farmland — Bronze Age burial sites.

Then, if you curve your way north along A360, you’ll come to Avebury, whose multiple stone circles each dwarf the diameter of Stonehenge. There’s also Silbury Hill, the West Kennet Long Barrow, and the chalk formation of Cranborne Chase close by.

For archaeologists, the region is understandably intriguing. And with the discovery of a pair of 6,000-year-old tombs in the neighboring county of Hampshire (only 15 miles from Stonehenge), its intrigue level has shifted up another notch.

Pinpointed following an aerial survey of the area, the tombs have since been probed using electromagnetic and ultrasound techniques. They’ve been identified as long-barrow constructions, and many artifacts have been uncovered at the surface of the mounds.

Tourists shouldn’t get too excited about a potential visit just yet, however.

West Kennet Long Barrow / Photo: traceyp3031

Unlike the West Kennet barrow, where visitors are able to walk around inside the burial chambers, the new tombs near Damerham may be allowed to remain in their present condition.

The decision — rather responsibly if you ask me — is being left to residents of Damerham. “It’s their heritage,” says Dr. Helen Wickstead, the project’s lead archaeologist.

More details on this story can be found at the U.K. news site Times Online.

Community Connection

Interested in taking more journeys to the past? Check out 10 Key Destinations for the Historical Time Traveler.

Photo: jpeirera_net

India is a popular summer destination for European vacationers, monsoon lovers, and travelers who prefer to go against the grain. There are lots of good reasons for visiting India in the summer: the profusion of festivals, Himalayan destinations inaccessible in winter, empty tourist attractions, cheaper airfares, and slashed accommodation rates, to name a few.

If this sounds like your cup of tea, here are 11 activities to keep you busy in the summer:

1. Eat mangoes

Early summer, before the monsoon arrives, is the hottest time of year in India. The only relief comes from this sweet and succulent fruit, revered the country over.

Photo: wildxplorer

In India, the mango is the “king of fruit.” April is when you’ll first see them in the markets and restaurants. While there are many varieties, the Alphonso is hailed as the “king of kings,” and its seasonal appearance makes the news.

2. Hike in Ladakh

In winter, the Ladakh region of India’s remote northern state is a cold, lonely, and forbidding mountain kingdom. But come summer, flowers bloom and the tourists return to admire the barren, lunar-like landscapes and traditional Indian, Tibetan, and Central Asian cultures.

Leh, the region’s capital, has some of the best treks in India. The very accessible palace and royal monastery, Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, is a great place to watch the sun rise over the Himalayas. The season’s short, though, and by mid-September it’s all over for another year.

3. Chill at a hill station

During the reign of the British Raj, the colonial rulers retreated to hill stations to escape the incendiary heat of the plains. Shimla, in the modern state of Himachal Pradesh, was the “Queen of Hill Stations.” It was from this small mountaintop town that the British ruled fully one-fifth of humanity.

Today, visitors to Shimla enjoy the laid-back vibe, Raj-era buildings, and spectacular views of the Himalayas from the The Mall — a ridge-top pedestrian-only thoroughfare that was once off-limits to Indians. Don’t miss high tea at the elegant, century-old Oberoi Cecil Hotel. Shimla is a taste of “ye olde England” in the Himalayas.

Photo: mohit.ed

4. Sing in the rain

Monsoon is a special time of year in India. The summer rains bring welcome relief from the scorching heat of early summer and they are a symbol of fertility, vigour, and joyful abandon. Bollywood movie watchers know that when rain showers soak the hero and heroine, it’s shorthand for the lovemaking they can’t show on screen.

The southwest monsoon is expected to arrive in the southern state of Kerala each year on June 1, and it spends the next few months sweeping north across the subcontinent, lightening the hearts of farmers, children, lovers, and just about everyone else.

5. Experience bliss

Summer monsoon season is the best time for Ayurvedic treatment in India. Ayurveda, which means “science of life,” is the ancient system of traditional Indian health care that seeks to restore health through the use of diet, herbs, lifestyle advice, cleansing techniques, and — primarily — bliss-inducing oil massages.

The languid dampness opens the pores and makes the body more receptive to the medicated oils. Kerala, in southern India, is a tropical paradise on the Arabian Sea, and the best place for Ayurvedic treatment in India. Ayurvedic resorts, from the rustic to the luxurious, line the shores between white sand beaches and palm tree forests and offer a relaxing vacation as well as authentic treatments.

Photo: lylevincent

6. Find the source of the Ganges

The Ganges River – known in India as Ganga Mata – is the lifeline of the country and its most sacred river. One-tenth of humanity depends on its bounty for their livelihood. It cascades out of the high Himalayas in northern India, and finding its source – or sources – is a major pilgrimage activity every summer after the snows melt and the roads and villages become accessible (April to November).

The pilgrimage is called Char Dham, which means four sacred places, and bus tours from Rishikesh in Uttaranchal state can take you to all four: Badrinath, Kedarnath, Yamunotri, and Gangotri.

7. Get soaked with Ganesh

One of the biggest festivals in Maharashtra state takes place at the end of summer. It’s called Ganesh Chaturthi, and while it’s celebrated throughout India, no one does it quite like Mumbai.

For 10 days, Mumbaikars celebrate by holding cultural and social programs, eating sweets, and worshiping the popular elephant-headed god. On the 11th day — his birthday — an enormous clay figure of Ganesh is paraded through the streets of Mumbai before being immersed in the Arabian Sea. The main parade, to Chowpatty Beach, is accompanied by thousands of celebrants dancing and singing in the streets. All are welcome to join the fun.

Photo: Matt Murph

8. Sip tea in Darjeeling

A popular hill station perched high in the Himalayas on the northern edge of West Bengal, Darjeeling also gives its name to the world’s best tea. In the 19th century, Darjeeling was the summer destination for the British in Calcutta (then the capital of colonial India).

Though Darjeeling is lashed by the summer monsoon, it still offers an escape from the heat of lower-lying regions. Enjoy the Victorian-era holiday atmosphere, views of some of the world’s highest mountains, touring the surrounding tea gardens, and Tibetan culture. Take the poignantly slow Toy Train from Siliguri and you will find yourself in tune with Darjeeling’s timeless appeal.

9. Run with the chariots

The mid-summer Chariot Festival in Puri, Orissa, attracts millions of devotees and tourists each year, who take part in an enormous procession as three mammoth, dazzling wood chariots are pulled through the streets.

Photo: mckaysavage

It’s one of the biggest festivals in India — so big, it inspired the word “juggernaut.” The word was coined after 19th-century British spectators saw people, mad with devotion, throw themselves under the giant wheels of the Lord Jagannath’s chariot.

10. Watch snake boats compete

The Onam Festival of late August celebrates the tropical southern state’s rich cultural heritage when everything is fresh and radiant. During the 10-day festival, Kerala puts on a display of games and sports, traditional art forms, drama, and classical music.

There’s also shopping at the many festival bazaars that spring up and a Grand Feast. But the highlight is the Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race, the biggest snake boat race in the world.

11. Celebrate Krishna’s birthday

Blue-skinned Krishna is one of Hinduism’s most important and beloved gods. He can be depicted as a cherubic baby, flute-playing lad, devoted lover — alongside his consort Radha — or as Arjuna’s charioteer during the epic battle of the Mahabharata (the basis of the Hindu bible, the Bhagavad Gita).

Inspiring fervent devotion among his followers, his mid-summer birthday (this year on August 14) is called Janmashtami. It is celebrated all across the country, but nowhere more so than in his birthplace, Mathura, Uttar Pradesh. The fun includes rituals, feasting, devotional singing, plays that depict scenes from his action-packed life, and human pyramids — formed to reach a high-hanging pot of butter, Krishna’s weakness.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Destinations

Community Connection to India

Prior to boarding that flight to India, make sure you familiarize yourself with the 10 Indian Customs to Know Before Visiting India.

We’ve also published a great essay called From Mumbai to Northern India by Train which should provide some inspiration to visit this colorful nation.

For a visual account of one person’s volunteering efforts in India, check out our Photo Essay: Saving Indian Street Kids.

Also of interest is the story behind India’s Pink Chaddi Campaign.

Photo above: Martin St-Amant, Feature photo: Rick McCharles

Restoration to this small Incan city only began in the ’90s. The first visitors had to cross the Apurímac River via a rope bridge to reach it.

During a typical afternoon at Machu Picchu, you’ll be one among hundreds (if not thousands). At Choquequirao, you might see six or seven other visitors, if any.

While the ruins currently sit under the radar, their recent addition to the tour rosters in Cuzco means they won’t stay there forever. There’s also talk of building a highway to the site within the next 10 years. Consider yourself warned — get there now.

Practicalities

Choquequirao lies northwest of Cuzco, on the opposite side of snowy Mt. Salkantay from Machu Picchu. Access is via the highway to Abancay.

Photo: Rick McCharles

The trek has become standard fare among tour operators in Cuzco, running around $200 per person, all-inclusive (minus tip, of course). Remember the general rule: the farther you wander from the main plaza, the less you’ll pay.

Of course, it’s possible to visit the ruins on your own. Knowing some Spanish is helpful, but the destination is popular enough now that most people will know what you’re doing and be able to help.

Hop an Abancay-bound bus and ask the driver to let you off at the turnoff to Cachora, just after the Saihuite archeological site. From there, flag down one of the frequent taxis that make the short journey to Cachora. There’s basic accommodation in the village if you need it.

From the plaza, follow the main road downhill, continuing after it turns to dirt. Soon, you’ll see a blue entrance sign pointing you towards the path to the ruins. Once on it, it’s nearly impossible to get lost.

Independent hikers will need to pay two different access fees along the trail, as it runs through Apurímac and Cuzco Departments. Each is around $12 per person.

Come prepared — you’ll be experiencing vastly different elevations and ecosystems, so both mosquito repellant and a warm sleeping bag are advisable.

The Trek

This is no saunter down the Inca Trail.

Photo: Nelo

From the village to the ruins and back, you’re looking at 74 km (46 miles). But it’s the elevation changes that really kill.

On the first day, the trail drops 1,800 meters (6,000 feet) to the floor of the Apurímac River valley, only to climb even higher on day 2. Then, you do the whole thing again when it’s time to leave.

Don’t let your guide — carefully trained in “exhausted-tourist encouragement” — fool you. This is tough stuff.

Most tours run 4 days/3 nights, but duration depends largely on your ability. Some people take 5 or even 6 days. I did mine in 3…barely. True speed demons (and the clinically insane) have been known to make the round trip in 2.

As with any tour in Peru, the more time you can spare, the more you’ll explore and discover. And in this case, the more your body will thank you when you’re done.

Photo: author

Speaking of sore bodies, a better option for independent trekkers than lugging a 30-40 lb. pack is to hire a mule in Cachora. This is how gear is hauled if you go with a guide — there are no porters.

Campgrounds are plentiful, with three near the river on the Cachora side, a few at varying heights on the mountain opposite, and at least one at Choquequirao itself. They charge a dollar or two per tent, per night.

The best is at Maranpata, at the end of day 2’s long, steep climb. The open views are tremendous, though this makes it a bit chillier.

Bonus adventure

For those who truly want to immerse themselves in the land of the Inca, you can turn this into a 9-day trek that ends in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). From Choquequirao, the trail drops and climbs a few more times, passing other minor archeological sites en route.

My guide told me the Choquequirao-Machu Picchu trek is incredibly strenuous, but he also called it the best trek in Peru. Only a couple hundred people do it each year. Compare that to the 2,500 descending on Machu Picchu every day, and you’ve got yourself some serious isolation.

Photo: author

The Ruins

Some ads claim that Choquequirao is “bigger than Machu Picchu,” but this refers to the mountain itself, not the ruins.

Choquequirao was a small city, about 20 families strong, and has nowhere near the number of structures as its famous cousin.

However, because restoration began only recently, there’s likely much more still hidden by jungle.

Though your legs may be resisting at this point, make sure to follow the path that drops steeply on the far side of the ruins, which will lead you to a series of terraces. These original stone walls are decorated with white rocks that create the figures of llamas.

Photo: andyinsouthamerica

You won’t find these at Machu Picchu, or anywhere else for that matter.

But the real attraction of Choquequirao is simple: there’s no one there.

Apart from a few teams of restoration workers and one or two other small tourist groups, you’ll have the quiet, magnificent ruins all to yourself — almost as if you were discovering your own Machu Picchu.

Community Connection

Regardless of how many Choquequiraos become available to tourists, the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu trek will remain the biggest draw. Trips has what you need for this itinerary too. Make sure to check out How to Trek the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu on the Cheap.

Photo above: Jen SFO-BCN, Feature photo: Perrimoon

Eats: La Cova Fumada

This nook is easy to miss. But don’t let the cigarette smoke and cooking fat fumes that waft from behind its backstreet brown doors intimidate you. La Cova Fumada is the best seafood tapas bar in Barcelona, where local dock workers and fishermen come to grab a quick snack and hurl good-natured insults at one another.

At lunchtime, the harassed waiter turns a deaf ear to any drink orders that don’t involve red wine and the female kitchen staff (who look as if they’ve been wrestling in olive oil) wipe sweat from their brows with the tea towels.

Photo: loremipsum

From their tiny workspace, they turn out plate after plate of crispy grilled sardines, succulent octopus, bacalao in tomato sauce, and the house specialty of patatas bombas — fried potato balls smothered in a fiery garlic and chili sauce.

There are no frills, no menus, no reservations, no credit cards, and no English-speaking staff. Consequently, prices are about half those charged on La Rambla.

Address: C/ Baluard 56 (no sign)
Tel: +34 932 214 061
Hours: Monday to Friday 9am-3:30pm, Thursday and Friday 6pm-8.30pm, Saturday 9am-1.30pm. Closed Sundays and throughout August.

Green space: Parc de Guinardó

Guess what — Gaudí’s Parc Güell isn’t the finest green space in the city. Okay, so it’s easy on the eye and studded with delightful architectural eccentricities, but unless you’re the first to sprint through the gates at 10am, all your photos will be full of strangers’ elbows.

Instead, take the number 28 bus from Plaza Catalunya and stay on until the last stop — even if helpful pensioners frantically try to shoo you off at Parc Güell. From the bus stop, follow the road to the end and you’ll be in Parc de Guinardó, a sprawling municipal space that hardly anyone uses.

Ascend woodland paths to the top of the hill for a panoramic view of the city all to yourself.

Arriving: Bus 28 stops near the highest part of the park on Carrer de la Gran Vista – Plaça de la Mitja Lluna. The main entrance is at Carrer de Garriga i Roca 62
Tel: +34 934 500 749

Exercise: Montjuïc Municipal Olympic Swimming Pool

Swimming pools don’t get better than this.

Photo: liako

Built to showcase the city during the diving events of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics and used by Kylie in her video for “Slow,” you can enjoy a prefect view of the city while doing your laps.

The pool may not have much in the way of amenities, but with a setting this good, it’s hard to care.

Address: Av Miramar 31
Tel: +34 934 430 046
Arriving: Take the Metro to Parallel, then hop on the funicular. At the top, the pool is across the road next to the restaurant El Xalet.
Hours: Open daily between July and mid-September, 11am-6.30pm

Sweets: Caelum

Tucked away in the Barri Gòtic, Caelum is the place to go for a sugar fix when you’re weary of walking. They sell products made by nuns and monks from around the country and the two-floor teashop has a superb collection of cakes.

For any marzipan lovers wondering what heaven looks like, this is it.

Address: C/ de la Palla 8
Tel: +34 933 026 993

Beaches: Get out of town

Only tourists go to the beach in Barcelona.

Sant Pol de Mar / Photo: Antoni

If you spot a Catalan, it’s most likely they just haven’t made it home to bed yet.

Those in the know head farther up the coast. If you’re on a budget, a simple city metro ticket will take you to Montgat, a wide, sandy beach with safe swimming.

Farther north, Sant Pol de Mar is a lovely Catalan fishing village with clear blue water and a shingle beach that’s just an hour’s train ride from the city.

Websites: www.montgat.net, www.santpol.org

Architecture: Casa Calvet

Photo: ale3andro

Want to check out the interior of a Gaudí building but avoid the queues for tours of La Pedrera? Why not grab dinner in one instead?

Restaurant Casa Calvet opened its doors in 1994, having converted the offices and boardrooms of a building Gaudí designed for a local textile manufacturer into semi-private dining rooms. It isn’t cheap, but then it’s not every day you get to dine inside a work of art.

Main courses can be a bit hit and miss, but the mango tart with pepper ice-cream and yogurt sauce is a sure thing.

Address: Calle Casp 48
Tel: +34 934 124 012
Website: www.casacalvet.es
Kitchen hours: Monday to Saturday 1pm-3:30pm and 8:30pm-11pm. Closed Sundays.

Culture: Palau de la Música

There’s no denying that this world-famous concert hall and bastion of Modernist architecture is a tourist attraction, and deservedly so. To separate yourself from the hordes and see it in all its glory, attend a concert. The building is even more gorgeous inside than out.

Address: C/ de Sant Francesc de Paula 2, Urquinaona
Tel: +34 902 442 882
Website: www.palaumusica.org

Nightlife: Razzmatazz

Photo: itz.

You need stamina for clubbing in this town. If you want to party like a local, take a disco nap in the evening, begin a leisurely dinner around 10pm, and don’t even think about going to a club before 2:00 in the morning.

When you do, head for Razzmatazz.

Housed in an old factory, ‘the Razz’ is massive. Its five different dance floors play everything from indie and rock to electronica and pop.

There are frequent live music offerings as well.

Address: C/Almogàvers 122 – C/Pamplona 88
Tel: +34 933 208 200
Arriving: Take the Metro to Bogatell or Marina.
Website: www.salarazzmatazz.com

Community Connection

For more smart travel tips on the Catalan capital, be sure to check out Matador’s Green Guide to Barcelona and the Top 5 Ferias in Spain.

Destinations

Community Connection to Spain

The Matador community blogs are filled with travelers’ takes on Barcelona. Sample different perspectives with:

Tracing Gaudí around Barcelona

The Washing Machine: Barcelona, Spain

The best place for lunch in Barcelona: Outdoor Markets

LAUGHS AT THE LONDON BAR – Barcelona

La Champagneria: The craziest bar in Barcelona

1. The small Amazonian town of Parintins is reached from Manaus via a 20-30 hour boat trip…or a one hour plane ride.

2. The population of Parintins is 100,000. During the 3-day Boi Bumbá festival the population doubles as visitors arrive from all over Brazil, creating a colourful mix of local culture and burgeoning tourism.

3. Everybody in the town gets involved in the event in some way – even if they have to be at work.

4. A pre-party in the main square soon draws out the town’s most enthusiastic dancers.

5. A tropical lunchtime downpour does nothing to dampen spirits.

6. By the afternoon downtown Parintins is ablaze with colour, music, food, and dancing.

7. Street dancers leap to the sounds of a live band in Parintins as the town gets ready for a weekend of huge celebrations.

8. The festival’s roots go back around a hundred years. The blue team (the upper-class Caprichosos) fight against the red team (the working-class Garantidos). Parintins is the only place in the world where the Coca Cola sign is blue, a direct result of the sensitive division of the town’s color-driven rivalry.

9. Each team has 2-3 hours per night to outdo their opponent in terms of exuberant costumes, retelling of folkloric legends centered around a bull (boi), and, of course, beautiful singers and dancers. The “bombodrome” is open to tour groups before the event begins. Here you can get an insight into the madness to come as you walk amidst giant colourful trees and flamboyant, outsized creatures.

10. The stadium (”bombodrome”) is packed out by 8pm. Finally, a year’s buildup of tension, secrecy, and passionate rivalry is unleashed.

11. Many of the costumes and designs are so wildly imaginative they take many months to make and are different each year. This giant female face emerged from a traditional Amazonian house whose walls were made up of costumed people that dispersed fluidly in a show of virtuoso choreography.

12. Just when you think things can’t get more outrageous, a giant green man appears, almost as tall as the stadium, sprouting a slightly smaller baby-creature from above his head. You don’t need shamanic hallucinogenics to have a trippy time in the Amazon.

13. And what should leap from the green baby-creature when it reaches the ground? Why, a beautiful woman dressed in vivid animal feathers of course.

14. After a stunning performance from Caprichoso, the red team (Garantido) rolls out giant puppets to intimidate their opponents, impress the judges, and drive their supporters wild.

15. One of the final Garantido beauties shows her stunning snow-white plumage to the crowd. While Boi Bumbá isn’t widely known internationally, it’s the second largest festival after Rio Carnival, and is every bit as wild.

Community Connection

See more of Paul’s images from the Brazilian Amazon in Photo Essay: An Amazon Adventure.

Photo: accent on eclectic

If you’re interested in traveling to the Middle East but aren’t sure where to begin, be like the Pope: kick-start your trip through the holy land in Jordan. With its welcoming people, small size and manageable number of sacred sites, Jordan is the place to go biblical.

Mt. Nebo

Start at piney Mt. Nebo, where Moses first beheld the Promised Land of the Canaanites. In the valley below, Jerusalem’s golden dome (the Temple of the Rock) and the salty white shores of the Dead Sea glisten in the sun like the North Star did for the Three Magi.

Photo: upyernoz

If you listen carefully, you can almost hear the babbling brooks of milk and honey, the tumbling of the walls in neighboring Jericho, and the history echoing through the quilted valley below (Deuteronomy 32:49-50).

Bethany beyond the Jordan

Down by the banks of the muddy Jordan River lies Bethany beyond the Jordan. Amidst the wispy tamarisk, willow, and poplars trees, Jesus was baptized here in this once mighty river by his closest friend and companion, John the Baptist (Matthew 3:13). If you R.S.V.P. and B.Y.O. Priest you can be baptized here too.

John the Baptist loses his head

Photo: laura padgett

Heading south, you’ll soon be rewarded with breathtaking views of the crystalline waters from the lowest point on earth: the Dead Sea. From its sodium-encrusted shoreline, the windswept hills undulate towards the heavens.

Between heaven and hell, at the sleepy shepherd’s village of Mukawir, Herod the Great’s castle ruins perch precariously atop a 700m hillock.

This is where Herod Antipas, Herod the Great’s successor, had the head of John the Baptist served up on a silver platter at the request of the legendary seductress Salome, his niece and step-daughter (Matthew 14:9-12).

Sodom & Gomorrah

The further south you go, the more scandalous the stories become. Towards the Nabataean ruins of Petra, not far from the village of Safi, you’ll find Lot’s Cave. Lot and his two daughters took refuge here from the fire and brimstone that destroyed the original sin cities of Sodom and Gomorrah.

While no remains of Lot or his daughters were ever found, not far from the cave stands a pillar of salt that many believe to be what’s left of Lot’s wife. By disobeying the warnings of the angels to not look back at the razing of her beloved twin cities she was sodium-ized for all eternity (Genesis 19:30).

Photo: shioshvili

The cooler, older brother of Moses

Within hiking distance from Petra, amidst the iron-stained sandstone of Wadi Musa (the well of Moses) is Jebel Haroun. On top of this mount — revered by Muslims and Christians alike — is the tomb of Aaron, Moses’ cooler, older brother.

Pay homage here to the man described in the book of Exodus, and later popularized in church camp songs, as the one who dared to say “Pharaoh, pharaoh, hey-ho, let my people go…”

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For even more advice on where to head if you find yourself in the region, make sure you read 6 Under-the-Radar Destinations in the Middle East.

If you’d like a peek at a Matador member’s experiences traveling in the area, Middle East Travel: By the Numbers should put a smile on your face.

Photo: irene.

Even if you’re not in France on July 14, you can still celebrate the French national holiday with other Francophiles at one of many events around the world.

London

Across the Channel in London, Bastille Day will be commemorated at events throughout the city. On July 12, Battersea Park will host the Bastille Day Garden Party, one of the biggest celebrations outside France.

In addition to a picnic, the party includes a pétanque tournament, a French market, an open-air cinema, and a chance to win prizes such as cooking classes at the Alain Ducasse school in Paris.

New York

Each year, the Alliance Française puts on a large celebration on 60th Street between Fifth and Lexington Avenues. It goes down July 12 this year, with market stalls, music, dance, and food. Among the prizes being raffled off are trips to Paris and French language lessons at the Alliance Française.

The Committee of French Speaking Societies also holds its annual Bastille Day Ball on July 13, with this year’s theme being Les Années Folles, or the Roaring Twenties.

Philadelphia

Philadelphia goes all out with a 4-day celebration at the Eastern State Penitentiary beginning July 9.

The throwing of the Tastykake / Photo: thatpicturetaker

On July 11, revelers are invited to take part in a storming of the Bastille, with Marie Antoinette escorted by armed troops as she shouts “let them eat Tastykake,” throwing the locally-produced pastries from the prison tower.

She’s then presented to the audience, who decide her fate as she stands next to an executioner and real guillotine. French Revolutionaries, played by members of the Old Fort Mifflin Historical Society, also make appearances.

Milwaukee

For the past 28 years, Milwaukee has put its predominantly German heritage aside for 4 days in mid-July by staging the Bastille Days festival at Cathedral Square Park downtown, complete with a 43-foot replica of the Eiffel Tower, street performers, minstrels, and music.

The festival begins with a Storming of the Bastille on the first night. Visitors can also participate in free French lessons, observe a traditional French Mass, and have their caricatures drawn. Genealogists are on hand to trace the roots of anyone with French heritage.

Seattle

On July 11, Seattle’s celebration begins with a Bal des Pompiers, or Firemen’s Ball, which traditionally takes place in every French town and city the night of July 13 or 14. This year, the event features a Moroccan menu, recognizing the popularity of the cuisine in France.

On July 12, a day of free events is held at the Seattle Center with food, live music, painting workshops, theater, and cooking demonstrations.

Franschhoek, South Africa

Photo: Julien Carnot

Meaning “French Corner,” this town in the Western Cape province was originally settled by French Huguenot refugees in the 17th century. Each year, Franschhoek enthusiastically celebrates the French national holiday with a weekend festival.

A masked ball begins the festivities on July 10. This year’s event features a food and wine marquee, film festival, game of pétanque, and a chefs and waiters race.

Budapest

The French Institute in Budapest and French Trade Office throw their Bastille Day celebration on the Buda side of the Danube on July 11, with food, wine from the regions of Aquitaine, Bordeaux, and Champagne-Ardennes, and music from French and Hungarian bands.

Fireworks cap off the festivities, just as they do in France.

*Feature photo: Cyril Plapied

Community Connection

If you’re lucky enough to be in France this time of year, check out these Matador titles for travel advice and anecdotes:

How to Enjoy Paris for Free

Top 10 Free Things to Do in Paris

Beyond Paris: 5 Other Places to Experience La Belle France

Losing My Travel Virginity: Homeless in Paris

How to Move to Paris with No Money

Photo: aka*kirara

Cotswolds, England

Nobody embraces tea more seriously than the English. Famous world over for its stone-built villages, historical towns, and rolling green hills, there’s no better place to experience tea time than the English Cotswolds.

Sip Earl Grey amongst drooping willows and lazy streams at the birthplace of William Shakespeare, in Stratford-upon-Avon, and you may be inspired to write a few sonnets of your own.

Photo: Author

Chengdu, China

Chinese green tea is as famous in the East as Earl Grey is in the West. For the best in Chinese teahouse culture, head to Chengdu.

Traditionally venues for conversation, light eating, and ear cleaning (a service performed by professionals with mini-lances and swabs, followed by an energizing shoulder massage), Chengdu teahouses have evolved into both trendy hotspots for dating and nightlife as well as sanctuaries of quiet relaxation.

At the south bridge of Dujiang Weir, enjoy a relaxing afternoon outside with a bottomless pot of your choice for around 20 yuan ($3).

And yes, you can still have your ears professionally lanced.

Ganzi, Tibetan Plateau

After passing over 13,000ft mountain passes to the Tibetan Plateau, Chinese green gives way to its western cousin, butter tea. A mainstay of the local diet, generous portions of (often rancid) butter and salt give Tibetan tea a uniquely unpleasant flavor that is undoubtedly an acquired taste.

Tibetans take advantage of the butter’s oils to protect their lips from the high-altitude sun. Consequently, the higher you go, the more butter in your tea.

Photo: Author

Although situated in West Sichuan and not the Tibetan Autonomous Region, the town of Ganzi is culturally more Tibetan than most of Tibet.

Wander the old town, overlooked by a hilltop monastery (home to over 500 Buddhist monks), and you’ll find yourself lost among faded prayer flags and elderly patrons slowly spinning prayer wheels.

Since the 2008 Tibetan uprisings, in which Ganzi was an epicenter of violent protest, West Sichuan has been out of bounds to most foreigners. If you make it to this remote mountain town and duck into one of the many local guesthouses for tea, you’ll likely be the only Westerner they’ll see for weeks.

Photo: Author

Marrakech, Morocco

Sipping hot mint tea in the souks of Marrakech, Morocco, entails more than you might expect.

You sit among boiling cauldrons of lamb heads, watching as your tea is poured from large steaming copper kettles at arm’s length into tiny palm-sized glasses.

The addictive sweet mint tea is served throughout the day. Alcohol is regarded as taboo in traditional circles in this Muslim nation, so mint tea acts as the social beverage of choice.

At the local food stalls in the Djemaa el Fna, in the heart of the old city, grab a cup with the locals in the evenings for around $0.10 a glass.

Cuzco, Peru

The coca leaf, notorious for its roll as the principal ingredient in cocaine, has been used for centuries in Andean tea.

Photo: sdpuckett

Among the Inca-descended Quechua in particular, the ancient brew is still consumed to alleviate the effects of life at altitude.

Try the tea in the mountain city of Cuzco, where tourist accommodations offer a complementary cup on arrival.

At nearly 11,000 ft above sea level, your body will thank you for downing a draught of the coca concoction, especially if you’ve just gotten in from Lima and the coast.

Nashville, USA

Served on ice with a squeeze of lemon on a hot Tennessee afternoon…it’s not hard to understand why American Southerners love their sweet tea. What better place than the home of country music to experience it for yourself?

Located 30 minutes from downtown Nashville along a narrow country road sits Barbara’s Home Cookin’, a local “meat an’ three” joint. One sip of Barbara’s homemade sweet tea, accompanied by a lunch of her fried chicken and fresh pie, and you’ll be humming “Rocky Top Tennessee” for a week.

Community Connection

Tea fans might also enjoy reading about 11 Herbs That Ease Common Travel Ailments. Also, make sure to check out Hidden Hope: A Visit to a Sri Lankan Tea Estate.

Photo above: tylerdurden1, Feature photo: Carrie Musgrave | Livebabylive.com

Practicalities

South Korea’s size makes road tripping an attractive option. Vehicles can easily be rented at Incheon International Airport and through many hotels in Seoul.

Tip: Try to reserve an LNG-ready car. The cost of this alternative fuel is about a quarter that of gasoline.

The following standout spots fall in a clockwise route, beginning in the capital.

Seoul

Best to wait on the car rental for a few days while you make use of the subway to sample Seoul’s best.

Culture: Gyeongbokgung Palace
Start at one of the grandest palaces in the country, dating from 1395. In addition to the impressive Throne Hall and a pavilion virtually floating in a pond, the National Folk Museum is also on the grounds.

The photogenic changing of the guard takes place at 10:00, 13:00, 14:00, and 16:00 daily outside the main gate. Admission: $3 USD.

Photo: yeowatzup

Shopping: Insadong
A short walk from Gyeongbokgung is Insadong, the best traditional market in town. Grab lunch at one of the many old-school restaurants before strolling through the art galleries and craft shops. Afternoons often see folk music and traditional dancing exhibitions.

People watching: Myeongdong
Next, an introduction to Seoul chic. Myeongdong is the place to go to find trendy name-brand stores and hip clientele. Try to hit the narrow alleys when they truly come to life — after work — when Seoulites stroll past designer boutiques while munching gourmet street food.

Views: N Seoul Tower
You’ve most likely caught a glimpse of the N Seoul Tower, standing tall on Namsan Mountain. A cable car ($6 USD round trip) will shuttle you up the mountain to the base of the needle, from where you can ascend to the tower’s observatory level ($3 USD) for city panoramas. The tower also houses a rotating restaurant.

Nightlife: Hongdae
Underground DJs thumping into the wee hours, chill acoustic or rock sounds spilling from cramped bars, and luxury noraebangs (karaoke rooms) — this is Hongdae, the city’s #1 choice for watching the sun come up. Get there via the subway’s green line.

History: DMZ tour
The most popular tour in Korea ($40 to $80 USD) will take you to one of the most mysterious and heavily guarded strips of land on the planet. Everything from half- to two-day tours are available.

Shuffle down infiltration tunnels (dug by the North), browse the DMZ museum, gaze out over the zone and portions of North Korea from the Dora Observatory, and take a moment to read the heartbreaking notes tacked on the Freedom Bridge (used to exchange POWs after the Korean War).

All told, it’ll leave you with a lot to consider on your 90-minute bus ride back to Seoul.

Stop 1: Northeast Coast

Okay, it’s now time to hop behind the wheel and hit the road.

Photo: Ryuugakusei

Seoraksan National Park
Seoraksan has it all: hiking, wildlife, and history.

The park is at its best in autumn, when the colors of its foliage rival those of New England.

Take the cable car ($5 USD) up to Gwongeumseong Fortress to gaze over the spectacular peaks and rock cliffs of this park. Or, if the line’s too long, put your boots to work.

Sokcho
This charming port town on the East Sea is the perfect base camp for a park visit. Browse the seaside fish markets for dinner, then knock back some of that famous Korean alcohol, soju, while listening to the waves crash on the rocky coast — the perfect post-hike chillout.

Stop 2: Gyeongju

Photo: Photocapy

This ancient capital town provides endless opportunities to delve further into the peninsula’s history.

The Silla tombs, twenty massive burial mounds standing almost 50 feet tall, rise out of central Tumuli Park.

Kite fliers and picnickers relax in the shadow of Korea’s oldest structure, an astronomical observatory built in 627.

Gyeongju National Museum, loaded with artifacts found in nearby Anapji Pond, is a worthwhile stop on your way to Bulguksa Temple in the mountains above town. From here, you can walk even higher to the Seokguram Grotto and its well-visited Buddha statue that looks out over the East Sea.

Stop 3: Busan

Haeundae Beach
It’s time to kick back on the southern coast, Busan style. Get up early to snag a spot on Korea’s most popular beach, Haeundae. In the peak season (i.e., any nice weekend and all of August), umbrellas saturate the 2 km of sand.

If the crowds are too much for you, check out one of the other five beaches Busan is famous for.

Photo: yeowatzup

Heosimcheong Spa
Reportedly the largest hot springs in Asia, Heosimcheong ($5 USD) lies 10 km north of central Busan in the district of Dongnae. Remember to shower before slipping into the nearly 55-degree Celsius (130 Fahrenheit) pools.

Different aromatherapy and herbal tubs are available for soaking, while masseuse and scrubbing services are provided for a fee.

Jagalchi Fish Market
Right on the waterfront in the heart of central Busan is this busy market. Wander the pungent stalls, make a purchase, then take your pick to one of the nearby seafood restaurants and they’ll prepare it for you — most likely raw, sashimi style.

When you’ve finished dinner, head to Texas Street, opposite the Busan train station, to take in the nightlife of Korea’s second largest city.

Stop 4: Gwangju

Gwanju played a key role in the development of the modern Korean state in the 20th century.

In 1929, local students took part in one of the fiercest anti-Japanese uprisings of the entire 35-year occupation. 1980 saw hundreds of civilians killed at the hands of the army during a protest against the military government, an event known today as the Gwangju Democratization Movement.

Residents are rightly proud of their recent history, and a defiant student art culture persists.

The Gwanju National Museum gives you a chance to learn about the region’s more distant past. Follow that up with a visit to the surreally shaped rock cliffs of nearby Mt. Mudeung.

Photo: Wm Jas

Stop 5: Gunsan Islands

If you have time, park the car in the west coast port town of Gunsan and hop a ferry to Seonyudo Island for a day or longer.

The pace is island-slow (except during holidays), and the seafood is some of the country’s best. The white-sand beaches may convince you to stay longer than you’d planned.

Seonyudo is connected by bridges to a couple smaller islands, and renting a bicycle or 4-wheeler for some solo exploration is also rewarding.

Stop 6: Suwon and Yongin

Korean Folk Village
In Suwon, step into history at the Korean Folk Village ($10 USD). It features over 200 authentically reproduced and renovated structures from all corners of the country and traditional performances like tightrope walking, aerial acrobatics, music, dancing, and horsemanship.

Photo: Nagyman

Everland
Ranked as the 10th best park in the world by the Themed Entertainment Association, Everland (day passes from $26 USD) will help you unleash your inner child.

The park is divided into four themed sections, as well as a newly renovated water park, Caribbean Bay. Try to get to the park on a weekday, when lines are more tolerable.

There’s an excellent range of rides, climaxing with a white-knuckle scream-fest aboard the world’s largest inclined wooden coaster, T-Express.

From here, it’s a quick shot up the highway and back into Seoul.

Community Connection

Destinations

Community Connection to South Korea

Jon Wick is also the author of Chaos, Culture and Kim Chi: A Korean Cafeteria.

Before you even set foot on the peninsula, check out these 10 Korean Customs To Know Before You Visit Korea.

And, if your quick visit should turn into a longer stay, best read up on How To Get A Job Teaching English In Korea, as the country is one of the Top 10 Places for Teaching English Abroad.

To connect with other Matador members based in Korea, click on the box to the left.

Edmund from King Lear / Photo: Anthony Topper, Feature photo: Randy OHC

1. Shakespeare by the Sea
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

[Editor's Note: This festival recommendation comes to us from blogger Kimberly Walsh.]

Set within Halifax’s historic Point Pleasant Park, Shakespeare by the Sea offers a unique extension to the cultural scene in the city. Now in its sixteenth season, the troupe has been performing the bard’s tales among historic military buildings. All the shows take place at the Cambridge Battery, the ruins of which make for a fine backdrop for the productions.

Although located in the downtown core, Point Pleasant is the largest forested park on the peninsula and offers stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. Enjoy the 15-minute walk through the forest before settling down for the show. Later in the season, performances finish after sunset, so come prepared with a light sweater and a flashlight.

The 2009 season features “Love’s Labours Lost” (opens July 5), starring Amos Crawley, Caitlin Stewart, and the award-winning local actor Jeremy Webb, as well as “Macbeth” (opens August 15), with David Flemming and Genevieve Steele.

2. Shakespeare in the Park
New York City, New York, United States

New York City’s Shakespeare in the Park has been a summer tradition for more than 50 years.

Photo: chadmiller

City dwellers and visitors alike brave hours-long lines for their chance to pick up free tickets, but even if they’re not among the lucky folks who will get to see A-list stars interpreting the bard underneath the stars, the camaraderie of the wait has become an event in its own right (bring a lawn chair and a picnic or a phone number for pizza delivery).

This year’s festival features Shakespeare’s “Twelfth Night,” with Raul Esparza and Anne Hathaway among the cast’s big names (June 10-July 12), and Euripides’ “The Bacchae,” starring Andre De Shields and original music composed by Philip Glass (August 11-30).

Both plays are staged in the Delacorte Theatre, a semicircular outdoor venue that’s so insulated from the city noise that you’ll forget where you are.

3. Colorado Shakespeare Festival
Boulder, Colorado, United States

TIME Magazine ranks the Colorado Shakespeare Festival as one of the best in the U.S. Performed by a professional troupe based out of the University of Colorado at Boulder, the university’s outdoor theater could hardly be a more inspiring setting for the series of plays offered each summer.

Photo: turtlemom4bacon

Like New York’s Shakespeare in the Park, the CSF has a tradition of putting on plays for over 50 years. Yet it may be even more fun than the NYC festival; check out all these pre-play activities, including picnics and backstage tours.

This year’s festival starts on June 15 and runs through mid-August. Featured plays include “Hamlet,” “Much Ado About Nothing,” “To Kill a Mockingbird,” and “The Two Gentleman of Verona.”

4. Oregon Shakespeare Festival
Ashland, Oregon, United States

The Oregon Shakespeare Festival is one of the oldest Shakespeare festivals in the United States.

Beyond its exceptional reputation — drawing accomplished Shakespearean actors who view performing in this series as a feather in their cap — a visit to the 2009 Shakespeare Festival can kick off a longer trip: Ashland is the gateway to Oregon’s Rogue Valley, home to Crater Lake National Park.

For a full list of this year’s plays, click here.

5. Bard on the Beach
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Bard+beach+BBQ. Sounds like a winning combination to us. Add fireworks and a mountainous backdrop on top of all that, and we’re sold on Vancouver’s Bard on the Beach.

It may not have the longevity of some of these other festivals, but it sure sounds like fun. Plus, we love the nonprofit theater company’s mission: to make all of Shakespeare’s plays, performed in non-traditional stagings, affordable and accessible to a diverse audience.

Community Connection

Matador’s giving away two tickets to another fantastic Shakespeare festival!

The Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival, held in New York’s Hudson River Valley, will be providing two tickets (AND a picnic dinner!) to see “Pericles,” “Much Ado About Nothing,” or “The Complete Works of William Shakespeare {Abridged}” to one Matador reader.

If you’d like to win the tickets, leave a comment below telling us the best place you’ve ever seen a Shakespeare play OR the place where you’d most like to see a Shakespeare play (and which play, and why!).

Submit your response by midnight EST on June 20. A winner will be selected at random by the Matador staff. Good luck!

Map courtesy of Vision of Humanity / Feature photo: woordenaar

It’s nice to know that amongst the crime, corruption, and political dissent in today’s world we can rely on some places to go where we can feel relatively safe. The Global Peace Index 2009 has found New Zealand to be the most peaceful nation on the planet, usurping Iceland for top spot.

The GPI, however, doesn’t paint a rosy picture overall. As Vision of Humanity states, the results suggest that the world has become slightly less peaceful in the past year. This could be due to increased conflict in some areas and rising food and fuel costs globally. Rising unemployment, falling housing prices, and lack of savings are also contributors.

Photo: kjohn493

New Zealand: A diamond in the rough

The Kiwis have got it good, according to the GPI. Ranked 3rd in last year’s index, it made the move to number one due partly to greater political stability combined with Iceland’s fall (which is attributed to some violent demonstrations and perceived criminality in the wake of a large banking collapse).

Other factors that play in NZ’s favour are the low homicide rate, high level of respect for human rights, and harmonious relationships with neighbouring countries (i.e. Australia). As far as the military goes, New Zealand also scores points for how little it spends on the military (George Dubbya would have problems with this concept) and also its low numbers in exports of conventional weapons.

Not just lush valleys and snowy peaks

As if New Zealand didn’t already offer enough reasons to visit or relocate there, the GPI this year is another notch in the belt. Now you can bungee jump, swim with dolphins, wind surf, snowboard, explore caves, visit volcanoes, tour wineries, kayak, walk the Milford Track, and watch wildlife — all in peace.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Matador cares about your safety when abroad. Here are some articles we’ve published in the past that might come in handy the next time you hit the road:

7 Must-Know Personal Safety Tips For Solo Women Travelers

Nikolas Kristof Explains How to Evade Bandits

10 Common Travel Scams (and How To Avoid Them)

Photo above: tanvach / Feature photo: René Ehrhardt

Tired of endless hassling from tour companies in northern Thailand’s overtouristed regions like Chiang Mai, the ones promising unique trekking experiences that are anything but? Leave them behind and check out the small province of Nan instead.

Base of Operations: Nan Town

The provincial capital of the same name is a small hub of urbanization tucked into a corner of Thailand’s northwestern bulge. Its main feature is that it doesn’t feature much of anything, just friendly people, straightforward service, and beautiful countryside at its doorstep.

Destinations

Community Connection to Thailand

Nan’s population of 24,000 sees just enough travelers to maintain a few well-run guesthouses and a solid travel agency. There are no guided tours here, no overpriced Western food, no feeling of walking on paths well worn.

One of Nan’s biggest pluses is its accommodations.

The Amazing Guesthouse, situated down a back alley a few blocks from the bus station, is a tiny, quaint place, but its management will embrace you as family.

The wooden floors and walls in the rooms give it a warm and inviting feel while the rates encourage a long stay.

Two older Thai women do all the cooking, cleaning, and advice-giving. Your new-found Thai grandmothers will hook you up with a bike (motored or otherwise), fix a mean omelet for breakfast, and always ask you how your day went.

Now that you’re settled in nice and cozy, take the map they provided and plan your day trips into unexplored territory.

Provincial Exploration

With a motorbike as your trusty steed, there are no limits to what you can see and do in Nan Province.

Photo: apes_abroad

Journey along any of the roads radiating out of town and civilization quickly falls away. The region features the rough and rugged terrain northern Thailand is known for, but it also has flat agrarian stretches ideal for sunset cruising.

Several national parks are within a few hours’ drive of town and offer great venues for exploration. Directly north of Nan lies Tham Pha Tup Forest Park, filled with trails that scramble over and around the lush, rocky landscape.

On a sunny day, the area is a dazzling array of vivid greens and grays. Numerous caves dot the park, giving cool relief after a strenuous climb.

Waterfalls are also scattered throughout the region. The Sila Phet Waterfall, near the northern village of Pua, may not rival Niagara in terms of scale, but it makes up for it with charm.

The stream that feeds the waterfall follows a rocky route, where it often collects in small, clear pools. These watering holes are a favorite for local families, who flock to the area on warm afternoons for picnics and swimming.

Northern Thai Village Life

In between swaths of mountainous terrain, the land runs flat and level, flush with rice fields and villages caught halfway between modernization and tradition.

The houses in these tiny townships are constructed from both wood or bamboo and more modern materials. They line the roads that pass through them, alongside broad-leafed palm trees.

Photo: Hanumann

Relaxing adults populate the open storefronts and porches while packs of children walk along the road’s shoulders and teenagers on motorbikes of their own speed by you.

Just watch for the lazy dogs soaking up the sun on the pavement.

Any of the numerous villages you’ll cruise through are perfect for a stop at a local market. Find familiar items like ice cream and fried chicken along with strange vegetables and ripe, smelly fish spread out on long tables.

Those few words of Thai you may have learned are a good way to earn warm smiles from the various merchants.

South of Nan, the road twists and turns up a mountain pass for a ride that alternates between exhilarating and terrifying. On the other side, it smoothes out and coasts until hitting the fishing village of Pak Nai.

Here, you can try out local flavors or take in the surrounding green mountains on a leisurely raft ride.

Such day trips can be planned and executed for the cost of a few liters of gas — no expensive tour necessary. Ride slow or fast; walk through markets or hike up hills; buy handcrafted souvenirs or eat local specialties. Nan offers travelers the freedom to truly get lost and explore.

Community Connection

If you like what you’ve read here, you may want to continue with our Backpacker’s Secret Guides to Muang Ngoi Neua, Laos; Cabo Polonio, Uruguay; the islands of Trang, Thailand; and Champasak, Laos.

You also might enjoy our tips for How to Get off the Tourist Trail in Southeast Asia.

Photo above and feature photo: Gret@Lorenz

Tasty Cuisine

Rabat and Fez are the best places for serious culinary explorations. While Rabat is the most modern and comfortable Moroccan city, Fez is traditional and fascinating. Both offer perfect moods for culinary adventures and both have attracted some of the best chefs in the country.

Some might argue that Marrakech is also a great culinary destination — and I wouldn’t disagree — but what’s happening in Rabat and Fez goes beyond catering to tourists and is directed at locals as well.

Here are some unique Moroccan culinary experiences worth seeking out:

White truffles

Photo: Gret@Lorenz

You can find these for sale along the road from Rabat to Meknes.

Artfully stacked on overturned buckets, they’re sold near oak trees growing in a special soil that stimulates the symbiotic relationship between the truffle and the oak roots.

Argan oil

A specialty of Morocco. It’s a toasty, nutty oil, traditionally derived from a complex process: the undigested pits of the Argan fruit, after being eaten by tree-climbing goats, are picked from the animals’ dung, then cleaned and toasted.

Next, the pits are ground or pressed and the oil is bottled for culinary uses or further processed for cosmetic creams and ointments.

But worry not, today the oil is produced in a more sanitary way. Its taste is a cross between peanut oil and freshly mashed green olives — an absolutely delicious way to dress a salad.

Saffron

Taliouine — south of Marrakech — offers a unique twist to the more commonly available Spanish and Iranian saffrons. The saffron of Taliouine has its own flavor due to southern Morocco’s soil makeup.

Wine

The Meknes Valley yields the finest Moroccan wine, which has come a long way. While wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times, in the past twenty years the industry has begun to make certain vintages that wine lovers the world over would gladly add to their cellars.

Photo: dominikgolenia

A particular favorite of mine is Château Roslane Premier Cru from A.O.C. Les Coteaux de l’Atlas.

Escargot

Steamed and ladled cups of brothy escargot are a fun snack that you will most likely see on the street at night.

People gather around the snail seller’s cart and sip and nibble on these hot little striped-shell delicacies.

Sacred Experiences

The biggest challenge to travel in Morocco is that non-Muslim visitors are not allowed into mosques and shrines, with the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca being the exception.

Yet, the natural beauty of Morocco more than makes up for this and possesses what my Moroccan friend Saadia would call “the Big Waloo” — the Big Nothing — as in total, pure divine presence.

From ocean vista to mountain pass to the Big Waloo of the rosy-orange desert dunes of the south, the natural world’s sacred is open to all. You can take your pick following your own preferences.

For ocean-lovers, explore the Atlantic coast from Asilah to Essaouira.

Photo: Rosino

If you’re into mountains, anywhere in the interior — from north to south — gives way to great views whose only sign of human habitation comes from the shepherds and their brown-faced sheep, black goats, and sturdy donkeys.

Those who hear the desert’s call should head south to Merzouga and ride on a camel trek into the dunes.

For a rare chance at experiencing Moroccan sacred traditions as a local, come to Fez in June and July for The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when sacred spaces otherwise closed to visitors open their doors throughout the city.

Another similar music festival unfolds annually in Essaouira in June: The Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

Romantic Locales

Asilah and Essaouira command a romantic air, with their oceanside settings and well-established art scenes. These are also two cities with an open, international mood that makes them relaxing.

Asilah is smaller and a bit more intimate, while Essaouira has more expansive possibilities. Both have the dramatic backdrop of fortified old towns against the great watery blue of the Atlantic.

Rabat is Morocco’s most mellow and cosmopolitan city, one that invites visitor interaction with the locals. Numerous cafes offer comfortable places for men and women to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee.

Photo: Vibragiel

Seaside Rabat’s medieval neighborhood, the walled medina, is a welcoming place to walk, shop, and talk to artisans carving or painting wood or working silver and gold.

Finally, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital of this part of Africa (and known in Arabic as Walili), is worth a mention.

Its romantic appeal lies in the beautiful Meknes Valley that surrounds it, and in the ancient stones and mosaics of the old city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Other guides in the Eat, Pray, Love series can be found on Portugal and Spain.

Three more articles that will satiate your food, spirit, and love needs are The World’s Best Cities for Late Night Food, How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World, and The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France.

Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

It’s the standard modus operandi for many a surf trip, where the surfer’s mindset leaves little room for other considerations.

It isn’t that surfers are shallow, or narrow-minded, or don’t take an interest in their surroundings — it’s just that, well, they like to surf. Yes, the medieval fortifications might be an “absolute must see,” but the four-foot offshore waves squash those plans without further consideration.

Surfers are lucky. Most top-quality surf spots are in warm or tropical climes, generally not over-touristed, and are, by their nature, chilled out places to spend a few weeks. But that doesn’t stop a nagging feeling that maybe we’re missing out on some of the…what’s that word…oh: culture.

Thankfully though, the surf gods decided that surfing and culture needn’t always be mutually exclusive. In a few hallowed parts of the globe, the two indeed live side by side in peaceful harmony.

Northern Spain is one of these places. Surfers can return home with tales of perfect left-hand point breaks and the best patatas bravas this side of Seville.

Northern Spain’s three major cities — and the coast between them — provide enough cultural and culinary fare to push those thoughts of 30° water and mechanical reef breaks to the back of your mind. For a few moments, at least.

San Sebastian

Photo: Enrique de Clasca

Assuming you’re traveling from east to west, San Sebastian will be first on the list. It’s perhaps one of the most surreal places in the world to surf. You might find yourself changing into your wetsuit in the underground NCP car park in the middle of the city before strolling — barefoot, board under arm — through town amongst Spanish businesspeople.

Be prepared for some pinch-yourself moments as you join the masses waiting for the lights to change.

Photo: Rory Finneren

The city’s central break, Ondarreta, is at the end of the high street. Having made the transition from smog to seafront, you’ll see that the bay is overseen by a huge statue of Jesus, his arm raised in approval as you pull off another perfect Spanish right-hander.

The beach can get crowded and you’ll find yourself competing for waves, but it’s worth it, if only to say you’ve surfed there.

Back on land, San Sebastian stakes its claim as the capital of Basque cuisine and of the ubiquitous pintxos (Basque tapas). These tasty bite-size snacks are all the more delicious after a day spent in the water.

Pretty much all bars have pintxos on offer, although you’ll have to make a swift assessment as to whether it’s a “help yourself” or “wait to be offered” affair to avoid getting your wrists slapped.

Pitstop in Mundaka

Moving west towards Bilbao, make sure to stop at Mundaka, a surf town that’s been at the center of European surf culture for the last 40 years. The world-renowned break is perched at the mouth of Guernica estuary and is legendary for its fickleness.

In 2005, following overzealous dredging by a local shipyard, the break disappeared for almost two years. But it’s back now, even if it only really turns on a few times a year.

Some of the most talented surfers in the world make Mundaka their home through the Spanish autumn and winter, in the hope of surfing the wave when it’s on. It’s reckoned by many to be the best left-hander anywhere.

Surfing aside, Mundaka epitomises sleepy Spain. Grabbing a coffee or taking a walk along the estuary almost merits the detour itself.

Bilbao

If your nerves can handle it, it’s worth sticking to the coastal road as it teeters on the edge of sheer cliffs, which drop straight into the sea. It’s one of those drives that can be considered an “event” in itself.

The suburban approach to Bilbao — along the banks of Río Nervión — foreshadows the town itself. Pretty and newly renovated houses give way to the rubble of a recent industrial past; rusting warehouses and a corrupted river reflect the Bilbao of old.

Photo: Big Blue Ocean

As you approach the city, however, these warehouses fade into tree-lined walkways and cycle paths. Many have been converted into the apartments and offices that begin to line the river and are testament to the cosmopolitan reincarnation of the city.

It’s only once the road melds with the river — as it meanders right and into the city’s hub — that you spot, on the far bank, the totem that has come to epitomize the new Bilbao: the Guggenheim Museum.

From a cultural standpoint, it’s a must if you’re in the area. Inside and out, the structure will blow you away.

Bilbao is an animated and engaging city. Although there’s no surf on its doorstep, there’s a ton of fun to be had, especially if you time your visit to coincide with one of the many fiestas.

Santander

The final metropolitan stop before beginning the run into the westernmost regions of Asturias and Galicia is Santander. In some respects it’s the ugly sister of the trio. Santander does little to disguise its industrial heart.

Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

Much of the city was destroyed by fire in 1941, and the sprawl that’s developed since has a practical, modernist feel to it.

Elements of the old city do remain and are worth a wander, but it’s another department in which Santander succeeds in trumping both Bilbao and San Sebastian: its beaches.

From the bustle of downtown, it’s a 10-minute walk to the kite- and windsurfing magnet of Playa de la Magdalena, or a 20-minute ferry ride to the vibrant Hossegor-style resort of Somo. There you’ll find great surfing and a fantastic beach vibe. And despite the very best of cultural intentions, it’s a fitting end to the trip.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re extending your trip south across the Strait of Gibraltar, Trips also has valuable info on Surfing Morocco.

Beebe Bahrami’s Eat, Pray, Love in Spain is well worth a read if you want to explore more of the cultural and spiritual side of the country.

The following five events may not be well publicized but you’re bound to feel in the thick of things when you’re cheering on or participating in activities you may still doubt exist, even after you’ve been there.

Above photo and feature photo: zedwards

Water and Ham Festival

Lanjaron, Spain
23-24 June

The breathtaking Alpujarras mountains, in the Granada region of southern Spain is the setting for what is arguably the biggest and best water fight in the world. At midnight on June 23rd, everyone in town attacks each other with all the water they can get their hands on.

Strangers soak each other in the streets, while apartment dwellers spray those below with hosepipes from the safety of their balconies. The best bit? Once the whistle blows at the end of the fight, the cerveza starts pouring and the real party begins. There surely is no better way to break the ice.

More information: spanishhighs.co.uk

Photo: brewbooks

Nettle Eating Championships

Marshwood, UK
13 June

Feeling brave? You’d better be – The Nettle Eating Championships are a test of endurance. Who can eat the most? It’s not obvious what the hardy winner gets for his or her efforts – but if you’re aim is to impress the locals, this is sure to do the trick.

The competition takes place at a pub in the picturesque but little-known rural town of Marshwood Vale, Dorset, England. Its history can be traced back to the 1980s, when a dispute broke out between local farmers over who had the longest nettles, and since then it’s become a yearly tradition.

More information: thebottleinn.co.uk

Photo: @ Home Artist

World Wife Carrying Championships

Sonkajarvi, Finland
4 July

Don’t worry if you’re not married – teams don’t actually have to be husband and wife. As long as one male is carrying one female (over 17 year old and more than 49 kilos in weight), you’re in. The Championship is a 250 meter race over obstacles, including a water jump – and the winner wins his ‘wife’s’ weight in beer.

‘Husbands’ be warned – a 15 second penalty is incurred if you drop the wife. If a world championship sounds a bit daunting, there are other, smaller races visitors can enter. The event is said to take its inspiration from a time when men courted women by running into their village, picking them up and carrying them off. Lovely.

More information: sonkajarvi.fi

Photo: Caveman 92223

Annual Mooning of Amtrack

Laguna Niguel, California, USA
11 July

If, like the Laguna Niguel locals, you’ve got a fondness for flashing your behind, then get yourself to Orange County in July. This rather bizarre event was born in 1979, when locals rushed to moon a passing train in order to get a free drink.

They must have enjoyed it, as it’s been a tradition ever since. There are no official organizers for the event, meaning that locals and visitors work together to keep everything running smoothly on the day.

Be warned – there will likely be cameras. For those worried about this, the website assures that you can “decorate your butt”, and also that if you’re not keen to “moon,” visitors are welcome as observers only.

More information: moonamtrak.org

Photo: farmerboy

Liars’ Festival

Moncrabeau, France
August

Every year the village of Moncrabeau in southwest France plays host to a battle of cunning. As the title suggests, entrants must beat their opponents with a pack of lies, the best fibber enjoying the coveted title of ‘King of Liars.’
The village sits in the Lot-et-Garonne region and is a little off the beaten track – many of the towns of the region (even the capital, Agen) are frequently excluded from travel guides.

Getting involved in the festival is the perfect way to immerse yourself in the traditions, as it’s rumoured that event grew out of the locals’ tendency to swagger and bluster. And who wouldn’t want to celebrate such admirable traits?

For more information (on the destination): southofthedordogne.com

Community Connection

Can’t get enough bizarre events? Check out Carlo Alcos’s article for more strange events in Finland.

Do you know about some strange festivals or customs? Is there a crazy eating contest in your hometown?

Please share in the comments below!

Photo above: donrenexito, Feature photo: felixion

Valparaiso

Photo: Vitriskel

Valpo, as it’s affectionately known to locals, is a place of details.

Every corner, every nook offers something different and new: a clothing flea market, a gigantic mural, a purple house, a rustic restaurant with unobstructed views of the ocean, a coffeeshop that serves black coffee and refuses to offer Nescafe (instant coffee is ubiquitous in Chile).

It’s a city that must be walked. Take the ascensor accessed from Esmeralda Street and wander Cerro Concepcion, where you’ll find Café Concepcion on Papudo. The restaurant — and the hill for that matter — has a spectacular view of the bay.

Near the main plaza, order buttery Mil Hojas ice cream at La Vitamin on Avenida Pedro Montt 1746.

Viña del Mar

Since the 1800s, Santiaguinos have flocked to Viña’s beaches to escape the city’s summer heat.

If you don’t mind a crowd (and the towering condominiums), the beach and accompanying boardwalk offer a variety of treats: sunning yourself on a stretch of sand, a seaside artesanía (handmade crafts) market, and smaller stands with refreshments and ice cream.

Vendors wander the beaches selling cuchuflis and dulces. You can watch sand sculptors turn tiny grains into octopi, buffalo…even the Simpsons.

Since the roads can be congested, a bus from Santiago is most convenient. The ride from the University of Santiago station takes an a hour and a half, and you arrive in Viña, a twenty-minute walk from the beach.

Isla Negra

Photo: Author

Isla Negra is the site of Pablo Neruda’s favorite beach house. The famous Chilean poet referred to himself as a “cosista,” one who collects “things.”

His retreat is filled with glass paperweights, masks from around the world, colorful dishes — anything that caught his eye.

Outside, you can admire the view that inspired Neruda’s many poems and walk the beach.

The bus from Santiago drops you five minutes from the main highway, with nearby restaurants serving up quality fish like corvina and congrio.

Algarrobo

Photo: Author

Located to the south of Valparaiso and Viña del Mar, Algarrobo’s tall waves and expansive sand provide a peaceful respite from the crowds, especially the farther you wander from downtown.

Rent kayaks, swim in calm waters, and take a ride on a raft, all within a protective alcove that makes the ocean look like a lake. Near the private condominium resort San Alfonso del Mar, walk for miles on the beach and lay out in relative isolation — a delightful alternative to normally crowded Chilean beaches.

While you’re there, take a peek at the resort, which claims the Guinness Book of World Records title for largest swimming pool in the world.

La Serena

La Serena is a beachtown, plain and simple. Its broad sidewalks and grid layout are easy to navigate, its people chill.

Visit Mercado La Recova for handmade jewelry, musical instruments, clothing, and plenty of food. Be sure to purchase a jar of homemade manjar, a sweet cream made from condensed milk popular in Chile.

Looking for the beach? Avenida del Mar, the coastal road, provides access to at least 10 of them.

La Caleta (Pan de Azucar National Park)

Pan de Azucar is a beachside national park located in the Atacama Desert. Though technically too small to be considered a town, it’s too pretty not to be on this list.

Photo: aaronbflickr

Bring your tent and for 3,500 pesos a night you can sleep under a cabana at Piqueros with a view of the beach to the west and the stark beauty of the Atacama to the east.

Or for even less, camp in the more crowded, party-friendly sites at Piqueros Norte and La Caleta. La Caleta is the “town” in Pan de Azucar, with two restaurants and a mini-market for stocking up on essentials.

Once you’ve had your fill of beach fun, take a boat tour for 5,000 pesos (about $9) to the island where 5,000 penguins have taken up residence. The boat gets close enough to see rows and rows of them, the juveniles still puffy with feathers and the couples standing together in the shade.

You can also hike up to the mirador for a killer view of the desert plain as it spreads out against the coastline.

Community Connection:

To get beyond the coast, check out this list of Chile’s 8 Natural Wonders. Thinking about getting a closer look? Here are 10 Reasons to Base Your Study Abroad Experience in Chile.

Above photo and feature photo: Eric Lafforgue

North Korea

Photo: Eric Lafforgue

Score an elusive North Korean visa to experience the essence of totalitarianism: intolerance of goals that do not directly benefit the state, complete regulation of every aspect of public and private life, and a cult of personality in the diminutive form of a supreme leader — in this case, Kim Jong-il.

Combine these unsettling elements and the billboards of North Korea’s pompadoured father figure with the absence of stray animals, green grass, and tree bark and you get a society in which you’ll be grateful that you’re not an insider, just a traveler.

Myanmar

Call it Burma or Myanmar, its political system remains locked up in the grip of the State Peace & Development Council, an Orwellian term for the military junta headed by the Supreme Chairman, Senior General Than Shwe. From forced labor and union busting to human trafficking and child workers, the Chairman has many diverse interests.

By banning Google, Hotmail, and Yahoo they’ve even downsized the Internet and done away with the independent judiciary system all together. As a result, the Nobel Prize winning activist Aung San Suu Kyi hasn’t been allowed to leave her Burmese home since 1988. Pop in for tea with her, and you’re likely to hear a story you won’t soon forget.

Turkmenistan

Venture to this former Soviet Republic before the late dictator Niyazov’s most bizarre reforms are repealed. In his capital city of Ashgabat, you’ll marvel at the ego required to erect a rotating gold-plated statue of himself that ensures the sun always shines on his face.

Score a translation of the Niya Ruhnama, his national epic written to be the basis of the nation’s arts and literature (and required reading before taking the morality test necessary to get a driver’s license), before plunging into the Karakum Desert to pay homage to the monolithic edifice of him and his mother, Gurbansoltanedzhe (the official Turkmen word for both his mother, bread, and the month of April).

Photo: author

Turkmenistan or Absurdistan? Go decide for yourself.

Saudi Arabia

Be tempted by the petrol dollars to be had and you might linger just long enough in this society — so strictly segregated by sex — that you’ll start to wonder what the mannequins look like under their clothes.

If you slither out of the hands of the Matawa (the Saudi secret police) for catching you with someone of the opposite sex at a weekly beheading in Riyadh’s Chop-Chop Square, the relationship between how oppressive a country is and how many terrorist organizations it produces may become painfully obvious. What will remain obscure is why Saudi Arabia has not made the U.S. State Department’s own Outpost of Tyranny list.

Libya

Sojourn on the shores of Tripoli to experience the larger-than-life cult of personality of the Brother Leader and Guide of the Revolution, General Omar Gaddafi. Since coming to power in 1969 Gaddafi has taken total control of the media, outlawed trade unions, engaged in arbitrary arrests, and made it legally impossible for any other party to come to power through the Prohibition of Party Politics Act.

With no parties nor public transportation, thumbing it through the desert is obligatory to get to the only gatherings officially sanctioned by the state: weddings and funerals.

Belarus

Experience Cold War chills at the crossroads of east and west under the iron rule of Lukashenko in seldom frequented Belarus. Investigate the disappearances of prominent opposition leaders and independent journalists and you may just end up disappearing yourself.

Photo: author

Listed as the only European holdout on the U.S. State Department’s infamous Axis of Evil list, Belarus keeps the death penalty alive in Europe and has regular election irregularities that make the American presidential election of 2000 look like it was on the up and up. But don’t take my word for it, go check it out for yourself.

Iran

To judge life under the wing of what Washington calls the avatar of Islamo-fascism, visit before the Coalition of the Willing does. Black-enshrouded women scuttling past giant murals of gun shaped American flags and jackbooted gangs of truncheon-wielding morality police are the images they’d like to sear into our Western consciousness.

Before Iran becomes the third installment of what could be the Gulf War Trilogy, visit for yourself. Or, at the very least, watch my video:

Why should we travel to totalitarian states?

Why should we go through the hassle and worry of walking that lonely mile? By getting the news out there, through forums like this, that these kinds of states still exist, we can begin to differentiate truth from propaganda. And look forward to the day when totalitarianism travel will be a distant memory, not a present-day reality.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Audrey Scott also strongly believes you need to see it to believe it, offering 5 Compelling Reasons to Visit Banned Countries.

If the above video didn’t convince you to add Iran to your travel wish list, perhaps these 7 Reasons to Travel to Iran NOW will. Also, make sure to give the Matador community blog post An American in Iran a read.

Photo above: Señor Codo, Feature photo: Robert S. Donovan

Down, but not out.

After the Great Fire of 1871 leveled it, Chicago took the opportunity to reinvent itself, setting off a campaign of reconstruction that saw the city welcome some of the biggest names in architecture to the Midwest. Over the decades that followed, Chicago became a proving ground for innovative new designs and techniques.

Today, downtown Chicago is one of the world’s great open-air museums, showcasing masterworks by luminaries like Frank Lloyd Wright and Mies van der Rohe. In a city famous for its buildings, these are some of the best:

1. Sears Tower

Photo: Señor Codo

Wacker Dr. & Jackson Blvd.
Oct-April: Daily, 10am-8pm
May-Sept: Daily, 10am-10pm

Despite the controversy over its upcoming name change, the Western Hemisphere’s tallest building remains as impressive as ever.

When it was completed in 1973, the 1,450-foot Sears Tower was the world’s tallest building, a title it would hold until the Petronas Towers surpassed it in 1998. With its blocky, glass-and-steel aesthetic, the office building continues to be one of Chicago’s most recognizable symbols.

The main attractions for visitors are the 99th- and 103rd-floor skydecks, which look out over Lake Michigan and four different states; visibility tops 50 miles on clear days. Admission is $12.95 for a full-price adult ticket.

2. Rookery Building

Photo: swanksalot

209 S. Lasalle St.
Mon-Fri: 9am-8pm
Sat: 9am-4pm

Named for the giant flocks of pigeons that once roosted onsite, the Rookery is really two buildings in one.

Viewed from the street, the red marble and Romanesque adornments of the Rookery’s facade are echoes of the grandeur of the 19th century.

Inside, the vaulted ceiling and bold geometric metalwork of the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed lobby are pure Prairie School.

While the Rookery is privately owned, the lobby is open to the public during business hours.

3. Chicago Board of Trade

141 W. Jackson Blvd.
Mon-Fri: 8am-4:30pm

Looming over the LaSalle St. “canyon,” this Art Deco-era skyscraper has a way with the imagination. The tower is a favorite destination of moviemakers, most recently gracing screens as the backdrop for a high-speed showdown between Batman and the Joker in The Dark Knight.

When it’s not hosting superheroes, the building is home to the less thrilling but equally important Chicago Mercantile Exchange. The visitor’s center, located in the lobby, offers information and exhibits on the history of the building and its tenants.

Photo: mcclouds

4. Chicago Cultural Center

Washington St. and Michigan Ave.
Monday-Thursday: 8am-7pm
Friday: 8am-6pm
Saturday: 9am-6pm
Sunday: 10am-6pm

Photo: rpongsaj

Dedicated in 1897 as Chicago’s first public library, the Chicago Cultural Center’s scholarly opulence more than fits in on Michigan Avenue.

On an architectural level, the Beaux Arts-influenced design is as ornate as they come, complete with grand, red-carpeted staircases, Romanesque arches, and the largest Tiffany glass dome in the world, measuring 38 feet across.

In addition to its intrinsic attraction, the center is one of Chicago’s most visited museums and features an eclectic array of art exhibits, live music, and dance performances.

Admission is free.

5. Illinois Institute of Technology – Bronzeville Campus

3201 S. State St.

Spread over ten city blocks in Chicago’s Douglas neighborhood, IIT’s main campus contains the world’s largest concentration of buildings designed by Modernist pioneer Mies van der Rohe, who served as director of the university’s architectural school for nearly two decades.

More recent additions include the Rem Koolhaas-designed McCormick Tribune Campus Center, a slinky, futuristic structure built under and around the elevated train tracks. The campus is easily accessible by public transportation via the Green Line’s Bronzeville stop.

Community Connection:

Intrigued? Admit it — architecture’s interesting. To further your knowledge, why not visit these Top 10 Places to Study Architecture?

Want to network with some Chicagoans? jshugs and jrblues are just two members of the Matador community that currently call the Windy City home.

She’d be happier in a boutique hostel. / Photo: Mart_Moppel Feature photo: Kivanc Nis

The term boutique hostel is so new that you can’t even find it in Wikipedia. Go on. Try it. In fact, boutique hostel may even be an oxymoron, and I’m sure backpackers of the world will not be taking a particular shine to this phrase.

Nonetheless, something that seems to fall between a regular hostel, B&B, guesthouse, and boutique hotel has cropped up. Of course, it’s all marketing — they’re really just “very nice hostels.”

What’s going on?

According to Benji Ladyano at the Guardian, vacationers are looking for more budget accommodations in these difficult economic times, and the entrepreneurial spirit of hostel owners is leading to better and increased services in the typical hostel.

It seems the backpackers and flashpackers are going to have to move over to make room.

So where can you can find one?

Guardian.co.uk has started an interactive directory of worldwide boutique hostels. Categorized by continent, there are already boutique hostels listed in Ghana, Morocco, Thailand, Germany, Portugal, Peru, Canada, and Australia, among many other countries.

A room at El Diablo Tranquilo / Photo: Seth Anderson

If you’ve stayed in one and want to share it with others, pop in a review and they’ll consider adding it to the growing list.

Of special note, the boutique hostel El Diablo Tranquilo is owned and operated by our very own Matador Community member Brian Meissner. The hostel in Punta del Diablo, Uruguay is found under L. America in the World’s Best Boutique Hostels list.

Brian has his own take on why we’re starting to see boutique hostels emerging:

Boutique hostels let you sleep comfortably, enjoy creative design ideas in interesting locations, give you all the services of a specialty hotel, yet still allow for that impromptu drinking game in the lobby and the liberating idea that the guy next to you at breakfast might be a doctor from Germany or a student from Chile, but he’s also left his friends and his home and is right in the same boat you are, ready for anything and looking for people to share it with.

Whatever the reason, if it leads to more Internet, less hair in the drain, and a smilier host, I’m all for it.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Whether or not you stay in a boutique hostel or a more traditional one, you may find some useful ideas here: Hostel Sex: A Practical Guide for Backpackers.

Can’t afford the boutique hostel? That’s alright. Matador editor Tom Gates has some solid tips on How to Make Your Hostel Less Hostile.

Photo above: MKBrock, Feature photo: H. Michael Karshis

The Down Low

Geographical definitions of the Delta vary, and you can find quality live blues from Memphis and Oxford south to Vicksburg and Jackson, but the core of the scene is the triangle formed by Clarksdale, Greenwood, and Greenville.

Photo: Bob Jagendorf

If you’re searching for live blues in this triangle, your first stop absolutely must be Cat Head. (I know, I know. I said there’s no “right” way. But trust me on this one.)

Located in downtown Clarksdale, Cat Head is a music store, folk art gallery, recording label, and more. There’s no one more well-informed about the Delta’s regular blues festivals, showcases, nightly juke joint performances, old-timers, or up-and-coming artists than the folks here. Period.

Call ahead, check out the extensive resources on their website, email a question, or simply walk in and ask what’s on the go.

While you’re at it, think about doing some shopping: these guys know their stuff, and will give you tailored recommendations to add some legit Delta blues to your collection, beyond those Greatest Hits albums from Muddy Waters and Howlin’ Wolf.

When I visited Cat Head, I ran down a list of my dad’s favorite big-name blues artists, and asked them to recommend someone similar, but someone he’d never discover anywhere else.

The result? Super Chikan. Here he is, live in Clarksdale:

The Venues

As any purist will tell you, the old Delta juke joints ain’t what they used to be. But there are still a few spots to hear live blues on a nightly basis.

Here are a few reliable options:

Photo: stevebott

Ground Zero:
Best known as “Morgan Freeman’s juke joint,” and located next door to the Delta Blues Museum in downtown Clarksdale, the Ground Zero Blues Club naturally attracts a few more visitors than some.

But it also attracts talent, so don’t sniff at it just ’cause it’s only seven years young and owned by a celebrity.

Po’ Monkey’s:
Widely considered one of the last legit Delta juke joints, Po’ Monkey’s is located in tiny Merigold, outside Clarksdale. It’s as old school as they come, offering live blues just one night a week in an aging shack surrounded by cotton fields. Atmospheric, much?

Walnut Street Blues Bar:
Further afield, in Greenville, is the Walnut Street Blues Bar — also known as the Walnut Street Blues Club or the Walnut Street Bait Shop. (Have you guessed yet? It’s on Walnut Street.) Good blues and good food, and the ownership is active in some of the festivals and area blues preservation efforts that go on.

The History

Sure, you probably know that Robert Johnson is said to have sold his soul to the devil at the infamous crossroads in Clarksdale. But what else do you know about the people that created the blues, and the places that created them?

Several area museums are happy to tell all:

Photo: Waka Jawaka

Delta Blues Museum:
In downtown Clarksdale, this is the place most folks end up. It’s got an array of Delta blues memorabilia, and is probably best known for the reconstructed shack that Muddy Waters grew up in.

The music selection in the gift shop is disappointing, though — head to Cat Head up the block for your shopping.

Rock’n'Roll & Blues Heritage Museum: Another Clarksdale institution, this one is dedicated to more than just the blues — it also touches on rock, soul, gospel, funk, and how they all fit together.

Opening hours are limited: check the website or call ahead.

Highway 61 Blues Museum:
If you’re headed down to Greenville from Clarksdale, you’ll pass through quiet Leland just after you exit Highway 61 heading west. The folks here are heavily involved in festivals and live shows, keeping the music alive outside the museum, too.

B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center:
This brand-new museum, in King’s hometown of Indianola, is a new breed of tourist attraction in the Delta — the $14-million facility is a state-of-the-art homage to one of the greatest of the Delta blues masters.

The Tunes

Be sure to check out the accompanying article, “Highway Blues: Essential Tunes for a Delta Road Trip.”

Community Connection:

For more on the Delta, check out Travelling Riverside Blues, or read personal blogs from Matador members who’ve recently made the pilgrimage themselves: try New Orleans to Memphis: Searching for the Soul of the Delta or Seen & Heard.

Also, don’t miss Worth the Trip: Bluesfest in Ottawa.

Photo above: *spud*, Feature photo: pfala

Life.com has uncovered the world’s 10 most photographed cities. Or, at least, they’ve conducted a search of Flickr photos and determined which 10 cities are tagged most often by site users.

You can check out the list at the source, but here’s what made the cut:

10. Toronto
9. Barcelona
8. Berlin
7. Seattle
6. Tokyo
5. Chicago
4. San Francisco
3. Paris
2. New York City
1. London

It’s impossible to know which cities are actually photographed most frequently (I’d wager Beijing), but a quick perusal through my own electronic album seems to put me in the company of the Flickr aficionados — I have around 1,000 shots of London, taken during a quick 10-day visit last September.

What does this list say about the cities on it? Are they more attractive than others, or do they simply host more tourists (or more Flickr members)?

Do you agree with the results? What cities feature most prominently in your collection? Create your own top 10 in the comments!

Community Connection:

For tips on how to bust out killer travel photos, read up on Ryan Libre’s Studies in Travel Photography: Perspective, Timing, and Themes.

We can’t all get the perfect shot all the time. For the post-processors out there, here’s a rundown of Free Photo Editing Software to Enhance Your Travel Photography.

Since she left us, she’s trekked the entire 8-day Great Ocean Walk solo and has gone unplugged for a month and a half in Western Australia. No Internet for that long is impressive indeed.

Delphine is from the Brittany region in France’s northwest, home to countless manors and chateaux and beautiful coast. There are old fortified towns, such as Sant-Maloù , if you care to take a trip back in time.

Brittany also has the distinction of being one of only three places on the planet — along with Corsica and China — where you can see pink granite in its natural form. The Côte de Granite Rose is a 30+ km stretch of coastline with pink granite cliffs that have been the subject of many an inspired artist.

French gastronomy

But down to it. The French are renowned for their gastronomic side, so I asked Delphine to talk a bit about Brittany and its cuisine. This is what she had to say:

“The coast is just amazing… walking along the sea, with the fresh wind, the sound of the sea is just so nice (I miss that so much!!).

On the galettes you usually put some salty things like ham, cheese, eggs, tomatoes and/or whatever you want, and you finish your meal having some crêpes on which you put some chocolate, fruits, sugar, lemon, ice cream… so yummy!!”

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

See what a fellow couch surfer, Maxim, had to say about culture in his home country of Russia.

For more ideas of what the heck to do in France, read Tanya Brothen’s Beyond Paris article.

Photo: Jason Walley, Illustrations: Aya Padrón

Okay, 10 points if you answered “colonists who remained loyal to the British during the American Revolution.” Maybe you even knew that a lot of them immigrated to Canada after 1776.

But Black Loyalists? If you’re like me, you have no idea.

The history

As it turns out, the best place to learn about this chapter in American history isn’t in America at all, but along the southwest coast of Nova Scotia. That’s where boatloads of Loyalists arrived in 1783 to start a new life and keep themselves under the British flag.

Among them were a few thousand African Americans, mostly escapees of Southern slavery who’d fought with the British during the war. For their service, they were transported with everyone else to the area around modern Shelburne, Nova Scotia.

This promising start immediately dissolved into racial inequality. Blacks were forced from Shelburne and made to settle in nearby Birchtown. The Nova Scotian government, in charge of parceling out land and supplies to the Loyalists, put white families at the head of the list and left residents of Birchtown to fend for themselves through the brutal Maritime winters.

After nine years of this, they’d had enough. Most of the surviving Black Loyalists hopped a trans-Atlantic ship and resettled in Sierra Leone. Those that remained faced continued mistreatment and injustice, and only recently has their story gotten airtime.

The place

Plenty of physical reminders of the past can be found in Birchtown…if you know where to look. Start at the Black Loyalist Heritage Society Historical Museum—the only town structure visible from the dilapidated stretch of Highway 3 that passes through it. Though small and clearly underfunded, its handful of exhibits are nonetheless poignant.

From the museum, a short path cuts through mosquitoy woods, past simple stone structures the first settlers built for shelter. The trail ends at Birchtown Bay, next to the Baptist church and a memorial plot believed to have been the village’s burial place.

One inlet over, but worlds apart, sits Shelburne, now a terribly quaint tourist stopover on the coast’s Lighthouse Route. The campground of Islands Provincial Park is located between the two towns—an excellent base for visiting both.

For more on this forgotten story, click over to these Nova Scotia archives.

Community Connection:

You’ve got questions, and we have answers. Travel queries on eastern Canada — Nova Scotia in particular — should be directed to deva, Matador’s expert on the region.

And if you liked this post, keep the knowledge rolling with “Black History Year: 7 Spots to Keep Learning Year Round.”

Photo above: sebastian ceriani, Feature photo: Army.mil

Central Laos does not get many travelers, and the tourism office in the provincial capital of Tha Khaek has done a good job of designing treks that alleviate poverty in isolated villages without disrupting local culture.

Travelers get a chance to experience a beautiful part of rural Laos where the locals take pride in hosting foreign guests – a happy balance that does not always exist in more heavily touristed regions of Southeast Asia.

Basics

The 2-day trek costs about $65 per person for a group of at least 3 people — more for couples or single travelers. This is a fair price, and much of the money goes to local villagers who guide groups through the mountains and cook delicious meals.

Travelers start out in Tha Khaek, a medium-sized town on the Mekong River that’s about halfway between Vientiane and Pakse.

There’s a wonderful guesthouse in Tha Khaek called The Travel Lodge that has a range of inexpensive rooms, a good restaurant, and friendly, competent staff. If you’re on your own, this is also a good place to meet other travelers who can join you on the trek.

Destinations

Community Connection to Laos

Phu Hin Bun NPA

The trek explores the Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area, an isolated region of jagged peaks and clear, turquoise streams that looks like a classical Chinese landscape painting. The sheer mountainsides are refuges for several species of endangered primates, and tigers stalk the deepest parts of the jungle.

The villagers who live in the Phu Hin Bun NPA are largely self-sufficient, growing rice, fruit and vegetables, and raising water buffalo, pigs, chickens, and cows. While many treks in Laos visit ethnic minorities, the villagers here are mostly lowland Lao.

Eat, Walk, Swim

I LOVED the food on this trek. Fresh catfish grilled with garlic over a campfire on the banks of a stream was served alongside sticky rice, mountain vegetables, eggplant, and traditional pastes of herbs and chili.

For dinner we ate water buffalo laap, a Lao dish of minced meat with herbs and spices. Vegetarian options were limited but available.

The walks through the forest were broken up by frequent stops at spectacular swimming holes, including a sacred wellspring of turquoise water called Khoun Kong Leng.

Other highlights included a cave that links two valleys by cutting straight through a mountain, and an old temple where the prayer bell was made from the shell of a 500-pound bomb. This bombshell was a poignant reminder of the massive U.S. bombing campaign of rural Laos — a war that the White House kept secret from both Congress and the American people.

Cultural Respect

Visiting this part of Central Laos is a privilege, and travelers should take care to respect Lao customs. Understand that Lao people are extremely non-confrontational and place a premium on smooth social interactions.

Be gentle, kind, patient, and appreciative. Showing any sign of frustration or anger is extremely rude in Laos, so if you don’t like something it’s better just to smile and, if you must, gently inquire about alternatives. The head guide will speak reasonable English, but speak slowly and try to learn some Lao words. Everyone will be thrilled to hear you make the effort.

Photo: Mat Honan

Community Connection:

Other Matador articles on Laos include travel guides to Champasak and Muang Ngoi Neua, and an excellent article that gives the low-down on a unique two-week itinerary in Northern Laos.

You can also read the uncensored version of my San Francisco Chronicle feature on Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of Laos. The Matador version is called “Lusty Luang Prabang.”

One final resource is the excellent website Ecotourism Laos.

If you have other helpful links, questions, or advice for travelers, please leave a comment below. For those without a Matador profile, please take a moment to join the community. You won’t regret it!

It’s debatable why the Finnish seem to have a knack for the wack; could be their sense of humour or creativity. Or, maybe there isn’t a bloody thing to do there.

Whatever the case, there’s no doubt they provide some serious entertainment to those of us who like things a little out of the ordinary.

Check out the below videos of some of Finland’s craziest contests. If you find yourself in the Land of a Thousand Lakes, do your best to see one of these. I know I will.

Swamp Soccer

This sport originated in Finland, supposedly by some cross-country skiers who needed some way to train in the summer. Soccer. Swamps. It was an obvious choice.

2009’s event takes place September 17-18 in Ukkohalla.

Air Guitar

Way before Guitar Hero, we were riffin’ along with the likes of Jimmy Page, Kirk Hammet, and Eddie Van Halen. No musical talent required, but a flair for flamboyancy is a must.

This competition is part of the Oulu Music Video Festival. The 14th annual World Air Guitar Championships is set to rock out between August 19-21.

Wife Carrying

They say the roots of this “sport” came from the caveman days; when the men used to carry a big club over one shoulder and drag their women by the hair with the other hand. Or at least that’s what cartoons have taught me.

Another 14th birthday for a Finnish “pastime”, this year’s Wife Carrying World Championships is on July 4 in Sonkajarvi.

Mobile Phone Throwing

Everyone’s fantasy at one time or another. Definitely Russell Crowe’s (ba-dum-chhh!).

The municipality of Punkaharju is home to the Mobile Phone Throwing World Championships, chuckin’ it down on August 22.

Winter Swimming

Brrr…I get shrinkage just watching this clip.

A bit late for this year’s icy event, the Finnish Winter Swimming Championships are held in the town of Imatra in February.

Photos: author

I first met Maxim at the train station in Petrozavodsk, Russia. My wife and I had contacted him through Hospitality Club only a couple of days earlier from St. Petersburg. Even though our train rolled in at 6:50 AM, there he was, greeting us with a big, warm Russian smile.

Petrozavodsk is 400 km north of St. Pete and was founded by Peter the Great in 1703 to manufacture weaponry (the city’s name means “Peter’s Factory”). In one of the suburbs, Martsialnye Vody, you can find the oldest spa in Russia.

Keen to show us his city, Maxim brought us home and fed us pelmeni (dumplings), then allowed us a brief rest before ushering us out the door. We walked down to the embankment, a boardwalk on the shores of the second largest European lake, Lake Onega.

While we walked around the old factory city, we talked about Russia — about its politics, its police, and its culture.

The One Question Interview

What do you feel is the most important aspect of Russian culture?

“Hmm…I think it’s sincerity and honesty that has been berhymed by our poets. In this country, poets, writers and musicians have always been the ‘conscience of the people’. It’s very important to perceive Russia and its people through getting acquainted with the Russian literature and poetry.”

Maxim is known as “svini4″ at HospitalityClub and can also be found lounging around CouchSurfing.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Someone else who’s fired up on Russian lit is Matador community member and contributor Robyn Johnson, not to mention laser tag!

Thinking of doing some couch surfing yourself? Make sure to read Turner Wright’s tips on setting up a killer profile. Or maybe you’re already addicted and looking for the camaraderie of a fellow serial couch surfer.

Photo by feuilllu

Feature photo by meanest indian

1. The Loire Valley

Kings, queens, and the bourgeoisie alike spent generations snatching up real estate in this prime, perfect-for-building-castles location. As a result, the Loire Valley is home to some of the most iconic French images outside of Paris.

Photo by FlickrDelusion

Here, you can visit Catherine de Medici’s graceful home at Chenonceau, Francois I’s ostentatious hunting lodge at Chambord, and even the grave of Leonardo da Vinci at Amboise.

Some of the chateaux have been converted into modern-day hotels and restaurants guaranteed to bring out your inner aristocrat.

Accessible from Paris as a day trip (but with plenty to see and do during an extended stay), the Loire Valley is a great option for travelers wanting to break up their Parisian stay with a non-Parisian adventure.

2. Alsace

Alsace now belongs to the French, but the local flavor is heavily German.

France and Germany spent centuries disputing ownership of this eastern region, with France only definitively laying claim to the land in 1945.

After exploring the countryside, be sure to visit Strasbourg, which is not only France’s sixth most populous city, but also home to a world-famous Christmas market, an impressive Gothic cathedral, and numerous European institutions.

Don’t miss the area known as La Petite France and its winding streets, flowing canals, and 16th- and 17th-century homes. For those hoping to practice their auf wiedersehens as well as their au revoirs, Strasbourg’s German Quarter should do the trick.

Photo by marcella_bona

3. Burgundy

Burgundy, or Bourgogne in French, is known as the gastronomic capital of France; the only way to visit this center-east region is on an empty stomach.

Specialties include adventurous escargot, hearty boeuf bourguignon, and the classic coq au vin.

Prefer a liquid diet? Burgundy’s Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are some of the finest in the world.

Bypass the larger cities of Dijon and Auxerre for villages such as Beaune and Aloxe-Corton. As you sip the locally produced Meursault, dine on regional cuisine, and stroll the vine-laden hillsides, you’ll finally know what it’s like to live la belle vie.

Photo by Éole

4. Champagne

If those Burgundy wines sit well with you, you’ll also want to head north to Champagne. The bottles here are just as prized, only this time they come with bubbles.

Small, non-exporting producers are everywhere, but if you want to sip like a jet-setter, check out the cities of Épernay or Reims, where you’ll find all the big-name Champagne houses: Moët et Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Taittinger, to name a few.

Take a tour of their naturally chilled caves (Taittinger’s is the best) and they’ll serve you a glass when the tour’s done.

History buffs will also enjoy a visit to Notre-Dame de Reims. After centuries of serving as the coronation site of French kings, this inspiring cathedral barely escaped total destruction during the two World Wars.

5. Provence

Between the seemingly endless clouds and rain, the rushed pace of life, and the Parisian penchant for wearing all black, the City of Lights can sometimes feel like anything but.

Destinations

Community Connection to France

Provence offers an escape from the capital’s melancholic mood. Color reigns supreme in this mythical southern locale, as bright yellow buildings and fields of lavender radiate in the sunshine.

Stay in tranquil Arles, whose history dates back to the Greeks and whose Roman arena is still in use today.

After seeking out the areas of town that inspired paintings by Van Gogh, rent a car to explore the surrounding countryside and authentic Provençal villages.

Feel the warm breeze on your face as you wander a grove of olive trees, spot wild horses and pink flamingos in the Camargue, or sip the local liqueur, Pastis, on a sun-baked terrace. Now, who needs Paris when they’ve got all that?

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more ideas on getting beyond Paris, check out How to Travel in France for Less Than $100 a Day and Castles, Wine, and History on the Cathar Trail.

Photo: avlxyz

The close, dark store smells of garlic, chilies, maybe a little ginger. Racks overflow with instant noodle cups and bags of shrimp chips. In my hands a six-pack of kimchi ramen and a tray of freshly made tteok (Korean glutinous rice cakes).

I walk up to the counter, fumble in my pocket, and pluck out a wad of worn peso bills, still mesmerized by my discovery of this genuine, expansive Korean community lodged in the center of Mexico City’s tourist district—the Zona Rosa.

Destinations

Community Connection to Mexico

Koreans first came to Mexico in the early 1900s, fleeing the Japanese occupation of their homeland. Many found tough, low-paying work on farms in the country’s northern regions, where pockets of Mexicanized Korean communities still exist.

But Mexico City’s Koreans are more recently arrived, the result of South Korea’s economic boom of the ‘60s and ‘70s. In the D.F., traditions intertwine.

You’re almost as likely to find your mouth watering at the scent of bulgogi as tacos al pastor in the Zona Rosa.

While no immediately observable synthesis has taken place (you can’t get kimchi tacos here like those served up by Los Angeles’ Kogi truck), strolling down Calle Florencia between Reforma and Chapultepec makes for a culturally disorienting experience.

Community Connection

For more on Mexico City’s Korean community, check out the Matador Travel blog “Los Coreanos.” Curious what else you don’t know about the largest metropolis in the world? Give our “Green Guide to Mexico City” a read.

Feature photo: mrmanc, Photo above: Sister72

Auckland, New Zealand

Be among the first in the world to ring in the day of St. Patrick while attending Auckland’s 15th annual celebration. With nearly a quarter of city residents professing Irish heritage, they’ve proclaimed themselves the “Ireland of the South Pacific.”

The parade may have been marched this past Saturday, but the Celtic spirit lasts through the 17th, with live music, food, fortune tellers, and maybe even a hurling match or two. Visit the official website for the complete schedule.

Nagoya, Japan

Photo: tata aka T

Although Japan’s biggest St. Paddy’s Day bash was held in Tokyo over the weekend, the Pacific coast city of Nagoya will serve up its Gaelic goodness March 21st.

The parade, following a loop that begins and ends in front of the Osu Kannon Buddhist temple, promises to be a blast…especially if the pure-bred Irish Setters are flown in as promised.

Montreal, Canada

That’s right, Quebec’s largest metropolis isn’t all Molson and poutine. In fact, the Irish feast day has been celebrated here for 250 years.

Montreal’s parade, which begins at noon on the 22nd and loops through downtown, features a massive replica of Patrick himself…just in case all the green didn’t clue you in to what day it was. There’s even an awards banquet held the following weekend for parade participants.

Photo: Zanastardust

Montserrat

With a population of Irish and African heritage, the British territory of Montserrat is the only place other than Ireland that gives March 17th national holiday status.

An entire week’s worth of festivities are held on the “Emerald Isle of the Caribbean,” including a kite festival, concerts, dances, and traditional games. And yes, the Guinness will be flowing.

Need more ideas? Did you know this holiday has its own website? Check it out here for the full scoop on parades, parties, and events taking place all over the world.

Community Connection

If you know of other St. Paddy’s shindigs going off in bizarre locales, or if you attend one of those mentioned above, let us know in the comments!

For the more serious side of Irish current events, read Eva Holland’s recent Pulse post, “Protests for Peace in Northern Ireland.”

Photo: babukadja

MUSEUMS

International Slavery Museum, Liverpool, UK

This powerful museum grew out of the Merseyside Maritime Museum’s Transatlantic Slavery Gallery, and launched as a separate institution in August 2007 — the 200th anniversary of the British empire’s abolition of the trade.

Port city Liverpool was a vital hub in the imperial slave trade, and today the museum stands within sight of the docks where slaving ships came and went.

The original gallery focused almost exclusively on slave trade itself, but the expanded museum goes beyond the infamous Middle Passage and includes galleries devoted to the West African communities from which the slaves were taken, as well as the ongoing legacy of slavery for the global African diaspora.

Stax Museum of American Soul Music
Memphis, Tennessee, USA

Photo: Kim2137

The Stax Museum stands on the site where Stax Records made musical history in the 1960s and early 1970s. It tells the story not only of Stax, but of the other small Southern soul labels that operated in a segregated Memphis.

Memphis was always a geographic center in the fight for civil rights, as has been reflected in its music. Tthe Staple Singers are probably the best example of Stax’s potent activist-musicians.

But Stax’s importance also stems from its remarkable legacy of cooperation — interracial Stax groups like Booker T and MG’s, playing together at the height of segregation, faced challenges that most American musicians today can’t imagine, and kept right on making their music anyway.

Robben Island, Cape Town, South Africa

Best known for being home to Nelson Mandela during much of his incarceration, Robben Island today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A museum is dedicated to the island’s grim history. It was used as a prison for more than three centuries before the Apartheid era — past “guests” included Xhosa chiefs during the British colonial era, lepers, and the mentally ill.

Photo: g-hat

Still, there’s no denying that most people associate the prison with its most famous occupants, the anti-apartheid activists and political prisoners who spent the better part of the last half-century on the island. Former inmates conduct tours of the facility, making it a true living history lesson.

Negro Leagues Baseball Museum
Kansas City, Missouri, USA

From the late 19th century to the 1950s–almost 70 years–various amateur and professional baseball leagues operated alongside (and excluded from) Major League baseball. The Negro Leagues Baseball Museum tells their story, with the emphasis not only on their exclusion but also on the accomplishments of the players, coaches and owners involved.

The Negro Leagues remain among the most successful African American-owned and operated businesses in US history, and their success often contributed to invaluable economic and professional development in the communities they served.

DESTINATIONS

Though many people don’t realize, 10 times more Africans were brought to Central America and South America than to the United States during the practice of slavery. Once slavery was abolished, freed Afro-Latinos began establishing independent communities, often settling in isolated geographical locations.

Today, more than 120-187 years after abolition in the Americas, many of these communities remain largely intact. In many cases, Afro-Latin communities also remain relatively isolated, which makes them ideal places to learn more about the African diaspora in the Americas.

Preserving their unique musical, artistic, religious, culinary, and even linguistic traditions, these communities offer lots of rewards for the intellectually curious traveler willing to endure challenging journeys.

Loiza, Puerto Rico

Located on the northeastern coast of Puerto Rico, just a few miles beyond San Juan’s international airport, Loiza is the easiest of our favorite destinations to reach, but this wasn’t always the case.

As recently as the 1970s, residents and visitors of Loiza had to cross a river on a makeshift lancha (a ferry made of a sturdy sheet of aluminum), prior to the construction of a bridge that permitted vehicular traffic from San Juan to cross over the Rio Grande into Loiza.

Though public bus service now brings passengers from the capital into Loiza, Loicenos have managed to hang onto all of the traditions that make it one of the most interesting communities in the Americas. Bomba and plena can be traced back to this town, as can the vejigante masks made of coconut husks, used during Carnaval parades each February.

Be sure to try coconut and seafood inspired dishes in Loiza, distinct from other cooking on the island.

Bluefields, Nicaragua

Though it’s Nicaragua’s principal Caribbean port, you’ll need a boat or a plane to make it to Bluefields, as there’s no overland route. You’ll notice lots of different cultural influences in Bluefields, but African remains the dominant identity.

In recent years, a black consciousness movement has gotten underway, with Afro-Nicaraguans asserting their identity and demanding representation and rights from the national government.

Photo: chellesview

Sample “rondon,” a culinary concoction made of turtle meat or wild boar, onion, yuca, plantain, and spices, or visit in the late spring for the city’s May Pole celebration, highlighting Bluefields’ fusion of cultural traditions. The May Pole celebration features singing and dancing contests.

Costa Chica, Mexico

Photo: YeahjaleaH

“Huh; I didn’t know we had black people in Mexico,” an acquaintance in Mexico City once told me after he asked about my current writing project. It’s not an uncommon reaction among Mexicans… and even among Afro-Mexicans themselves.

Costa Chica is a 200 mile stretch of coast along western Mexico, and though it lacks the tourist attractions of the more northerly resort town of Acapulco, the region is likely to be of considerable interest to travelers with an interest in Afro-Latin history and culture.

Costa Chica is credited with originating the Mexican musical genre known as the “chilena.” When played locally, chilena is accompanied by stomping dancers waving handkerchiefs.

If these towns piqued your interest, you may also want to consider Esmeraldas, Ecuador; Palenque, Colombia; and the Chincha Province of Peru.

Eva Holland and Julie Schwietert Collazo contributed to this article.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Interested in learning more about the African diaspora? Let Craig Martin’s DIY Study Abroad Guide help you figure out how to plan your travels.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Feature photo by G u i d o

Cheap and Romantic Lodging Options

Forget staying in hotels, even the budget ones. Southern France is filled with self-catering urban apartments and rural bungalows. Renting one of these for a week or two cuts down lodging costs by 30% to 50% and honestly, they up the romance and authenticity of being there by 200%.

The beauty of renting a place is that you unpack once and spend the rest of your time exploring the area– eating, drinking, wandering, hiking– without stress. And that is how one arrives at the good life.

Some suggested sites to search for your temporary home away from home are:

• Top Rural in France
• Homelidays in France
• Craigslist: Look for housing listings under France for Marseilles, Montpellier, Lyon, and Toulouse).
• For gîtes (rural, self-catering houses and apartments) in Provence French Connections has some romantic bargains if you hunt about.

Photo above by van Ort

Eating and Drinking

Having your self-catering accommodation offers the next big economic and romantic move: the ability to shop at the famous Provencal daily and weekly markets and sample the true terroir of the land: locally-grown food and wine.

Buy your fruits and vegetables, cheeses and sausages from the people who make them, as with the wine. Rent a bike, land your hands on one of the GR foot trail maps, and cycle and walk to villages and towns on market day.

Weekly food markets occur in nearly every town and village. When you arrive at your home base, ask the tourist office for a list of nearby markets.

And always ask the locals. If there is one thing people love to talk about it’s their local food and wine, and where and from whom to buy it. Tourist offices are also well equipped to help you with details.

Flea Markets

Most flea markets occur on Sundays, though some are on Saturdays. Flea markets bring out the diverse color of society and are a great way to see the old fashions and aesthetics of a place.

Moreover, flea markets let you find a one-of-a-kind treasure to take home at a bargain price. Again, the local tourist office can tell you when and where these occur. Avignon and Montpellier have terrific flea markets as do other main towns.

Cultural Activities for Free (or Almost)

Music in the open air, galleries showing off the artistic genius of the area, hikes, sunset vistas from perfect perches– these are many of the free experiences you can find easily in Provence. Concerts are listed on church doors and at tourist offices. Gallery exhibits often have a sidewalk billboard announcing a little hidden plaza where there’s an exhibit.

The person from whom you rented your apartment can tell you the best place to watch the sunset in their town. (In Avignon, it is at the top of the Rocher des Doms gardens). Also ask them where the best trails are for hikes.

If museums are a must, take advantage of the all-city admission deals where you purchase a pass for a one or two-day access to all sites, rather than paying the higher individual admission fees.

Finally, rent a bike and/or buy a good walking map and use your own muscles to motor about. Slow Travel France is a great resource and offers terrific ideas and guidance for hikes in the Luberon.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Two Itineraries for Touring Provence

These two one-week itineraries capture the highlights of Provence. They complement each other well so if you have two full weeks, I’d give them both a go.

Week One: Arles, Nîmes, and the Camargue, or, The Roman, Romany, and Cowboy Route

• Make Arles your home base—renting a studio in the heart of town, where you can enjoy strolls in the streets Van Gogh once walked.
• Dine at the family-run places that advertise plat du jour, repas à prix fixe, or formules (set menus). These reasonably-priced set menus and specials tend to offer local, seasonal foods at the best prices.

• Arles’ market days are Wednesday and Saturday.

• Rent bikes to tour the Camargue, which you can do from Arles. Be sure to have plenty of sunscreen and mosquito repellent. July and August are the worst months for mosquitoes, but May, June, September and October (maybe even November) can be bad as well.
• Take the train for a day trip to Nîmes. If you want to go further afield, make another day trip to Montpellier, to the west, or Marseilles, to the east.

• Nîmes’ market day is Monday.

• Take a local bus to Les Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer for a beach day, enjoying shellfish, chilled dry rosé wine, and this pilgrimage site where it is believed many sacred Marys, including Mary Magdalene, and other biblical figures, arrived by boat from the Holy Land around AD 40.

• Les-Stes-Maries’ markets days are Monday and Friday.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Week Two: Avignon, Le Luberon, and the Pont du Gard, or, the Medieval Towns and Villages Route

• Make Avignon your home base. A great hotel, if you decide on that option over the lodging suggestions above, is the Hotel Medieval, which rents studios with kitchenettes at weekly rates. It’s in the heart of medieval Avignon.
• Allow 2-3 days just to soak up Avignon’s cultural, culinary, and social scenes. Enjoy the gallery exhibits, the church concerts, the food and flea markets, and the bistros scattered throughout the old Papal town.

• Avignon’s market day is Monday. It also has the daily Les Halles covered food market that is a treat to shop.

• Take a bus to Gordes and hike around this mountaintop town for the day: Take a linking bus or hire a taxi to the Abbaye de Senanque in a hidden valley nearby.

• Take a day bus to Uzès and the Pont du Gard, preferably during Uzès market days of Wednesday or Saturday.

• Take the train to Aix-en-Provence for the day and soak up the university atmosphere (which also means good eats at good prices).

• Aix’s market is open every day on the Place Richelme.

• Make a day trip to St-Rémy-de-Provence and enjoy a smaller-scale but quintessential Provencal town on the edge of the Alpilles limestone mountains.
• St.-Rémy’s market day is Wednesday.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more tips to travel France on the cheap, check out How To Travel in France for Less Than $100 a Day, or our list of 10 Free Things To Do in Paris.

And for a more personal take on travel in France, check out these blogs from Matador community members: The Quiet of the Dordogne, by member Maija, or Is There Any Where I’d Rather Be?, by member terryodee.

Graffiti is considered vandalism in most places. Because of this, the risk graf artists, or “writers” take when they tag, and the speed and efficiency with which they must create their pieces, have helped shape the form itself.

More and more people however, in various places around the world, are recognizing graf as a legitimate art form and now provide legal spaces for it. Below are 10 places where tagging is legal, and in some cases, encouraged. It can also be highly competitive. Bring skills or just enjoy.

1. Hosier Lane, Melbourne, Australia

Photo by BlueBec

This famous spot is popular among tourists and artists alike. Located in the southern edge of Melbourne, Hosier Lane allows for all kinds of street art and even seems to encourage it, as the lane has been featured in travel guides and advertising campaigns. Graffiti artists, if there was ever a place for you, this is it.

Elsewhere in Melbourne, street art is just as prevalent though maybe not as heavily advertised as Hosier Lane. Even Banksy tagged it. The owners of the building then installed a perspex screen over the work to prevent it from damage or destruction.

2. Warsaw, Poland

Photo by *gorolla

Topiel Street provides ample wall space for writers and stencil art. No hassle from the local police!

3. Tesnov, Prague

Well-known among the denizens of Prague, near the Florenc metro station. Relatively safe, this site offers completely legal tagging with the added benefit of good lighting from nearby street lamps.

4. Queens, New York, United States

Photo by rawmeyn

Dubbed 5Pointz, this full city block in the Queens neighborhood of Long Island City is free to the public and almost entirely covered by graffiti. Artists who are interested in putting up their work here must first be reviewed and granted permission by curator Meres One.

Murals are allocated a certain amount of space and exhibition time based on the quality and durability of the work.

5. Paris, France

Photo by Gabriel Radic

Legal tagging sites are sprinkled all over France. Just be wary of the graffiti groups, as some can get a bit territorial and aren’t afraid of confrontation.

6. Taipei, Taiwan

Photo by neogenova

Many artists take advantage of Taiwan’s legal gray area concerning graffiti and vandalism, posting their work all over the city. Police officers openly admit to not getting involved unless there is an owner complaint or property damage.

7. Zürich, Switzerland

Photo by inthesitymad

Independently run by a group of artists and sanctioned by the city, Rote Fabrik in Zürich was originally a lakeside silk mill. Now this alternative cultural center is one of the few places in this city where graffiti art is not just legal, but encouraged.

8. Sydhavnen, Copenhagen, Denmark

Photo by tobiashm

Lauded as a must-see sight in Copenhagen, the hall of fame wall near Sydhavnen is home to some massive and complex pieces. Though individual pieces may not last long due to the popularity of this location, enough visitors stop by each day that artists’ creations gain significant exposure once put up.

9. Burghausen, Germany

Running 150 meters long and 8 meters high, the graffiti wall in Burghausen, Germany is open to all artists who bring their own paint and creative minds. The city is located in the southeast portion of Germany, close to the Austrian border.

10. Venice, California, United States

Photo by jakedobkin

The Venice Graffiti Pit located in Venice Beach is world famous for being an open and creative space for street artists. It is not uncommon to see an artist in the middle of working on a mural her. The only downside? Artwork gets painted over by other artists in rapid succession.

Though doing graffiti legally may not be as adrenaline-inducing as tagging illegally, the luxury of time allows for more detailed and intricate artwork.

Graffiti artists, aficionados, and admirers may visit this site for specific directions and a comprehensive list of sites.

Feature photo by Turner Wright. Photo above by TED_KANAKUBO.

Take it from someone who’s experienced Japan’s bathing culture firsthand: there’s nothing quite like listening to your heartbeat slowing as you are immersed in soothing waters that haven’t seen the light of day for millennia.

In general, there are two different ways hot springs occur: magma close to the Earth’s crust may come into contact with an underground water source, or water may be heated directly from the energy produced by the Earth’s core — a geothermal spring.

Hot spring culture is universal, yet the baths themselves exist in a variety of environments – not every spring is the stereotypical picture of water boiling to the surface of a stone-covered pond in the midst of a dense forest or jungle.

In fact, you can find the familiar steam in urban sprawls, near ancient ruins, and even amongst the ice of Antarctica! Where in the world should you go if you’re looking for a good soak? Here are ten places:

1. Japan

Photo by NileGuide.com.

The hot springs culture is Japan is second to none. Onsen, as they are called, are available wherever a volcano looms on the horizon. In the west Japanese city of Beppu, there is so much hot water beneath the surface it appears small fires are constantly burning on the streets, steam releasing some pressure and providing picturesque scenes.

In northern Honshu, near Nagano, snow monkeys are clever enough to go in for a soak themselves, as Japanese tourists snap some truly original photographs.

2. Iceland

Photo by reemer.

Iceland is actually the source of the name “geyser”; the original, geysir, has longed stopped spewing hot water at regular intervals and is hardly the best place to go for a decent soak. However, if you’re looking for an impressive bath, be sure to check out the blue lagoon, floating right on a lava formation in southwestern Iceland.

3. Antarctica

Though technically a continent, Antarctica must be mentioned: Who would have thought there would be hot springs in the middle of the land of ice? There’s one place you can do it: Deception Island, close to the tip of South America. Dig your own little place to soak out of the black sand and you’re all set.

4. Peru

Photo by shashiBellamkonda.

If you’ve ever hiked to Machu Picchu, then no doubt you’ve passed through the town of Aguas Calientes (guess… “Hot Waters”). Only six kilometers from the ancient ruins, these baths offer a respite for those going up or down the mountain.

5. Taiwan

Photo by Prince Roy.

Taiwanese hot springs culture was incredibly influenced by nearby Japan, and now some would say they are even surpassing their northern neighbor in quality and variety of baths. Be sure to check out Hell Valley in Beitou and enjoy the indoor pools.

6. United States

Photo by stephend9.

The US has a large concentration of geothermal springs in and around the Rocky Mountains and scattered around Alaska. Many of the National Parks, including Death Valley, Big Bend, and Yellowstone, have hot water rising to the surface. For a real treat, make your way to Hot Springs, Arkansas and try one of the large bathhouses.

Photo by Drew And Merissa.

7. Canada

Photo by magical-world.

Western Canada has hot springs too numerous to mention: in the middle of forests, next to a waterfalls, surrounded by stalactites… Liard River Hot Springs and the Fairmont Hot Springs in British Columbia are some of the more well-known areas, but there are a few pools in Alberta and the Yukon as well.

8. New Zealand

Photo by plαdys.

To soak like a Kiwi, stick to the north and relax in the Taupo Volcanic Zone. Waiariki in New Zealand really help dissolve your pain. Check here for a comprehensive list of all the pools.

9. Chile

Chile also has the reputation of being a hot springs country, with over 275 places to soak and the biggest source of natural hot spring water in Liquiñe. No matter where you go, look for a “termas” sign and you’re all set for an abnormally hot bath.

10. United Kingdom

Photo by Howard.Gees.

What? You thought you were born 2,000 years too late to enjoy baths that the Romans themselves built, with grand marble columns and open atria? Well, you’re half right; in the city of Bath in Somerset, one can view the perfectly preserved Roman Baths… but officials might frown on you actually jumping into the water.

For that, it might be best to try the Thermae Bath Spa; only recently opened, one can now enjoy the same waters that soothed the line of Caesar. On top of that, Bath is a sister city to Beppu, Japan.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Have you soaked in the thermal waters of the world? What are your favorite hot springs?

The hustle and bustle of San Francisco’s Chinatown during the Autumn Moon Festival. Above photo by Dawn Endico. Feature photo by Bala.

Singapore

Singapore’s Chinatown, once home to the first Chinese settlers in what’s now a heavily Westernized city-state, is one of its few distinctly Asian neighborhoods.

The Grand Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. Above photo by Riza.

The enclave was home to the area’s earliest Chinese settlers. Several of its institutions, such as the Heritage Centre, Food Street, and Night Market, preserve the culture of its original inhabitants, while some areas of the district are designated national heritage sites.

Many historic buildings remain as relics of the past, as well as to complement the otherwise modern landscape.

Melbourne

Melbourne boasts the oldest Chinatown in the world, established during Victoria’s Gold Rush in 1854.

Yum Cha Cafe serves up some delicious, dainty egg tarts. Photo by Avlxyz.

Catch the world’s longest Chinese dragon– the Millennium Dai Loong Dragon tops 100 meters — in action as it is brought to life by 200 people during the Chinese New Year parade.

Kuala Lumpur

The capital of Malaysia was actually founded by Chinese tin prospectors in the 1850s, who played a pivotal role in the city’s transformation from a jungle settlement to a center for the tin mining industry. The Chinese remain the city’s dominant ethnic group and control a large proportion of the country’s commerce.

Photo by Jason Weemin.

Chinatown, known locally as Petaling Street or Jalan Petaling, is famous for its food stalls and night market, where shoppers can load up on fresh produce and counterfeit DVDs, watches and purses (don’t forget to haggle).

Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia

Arriving in Georgetown, Penang, off the west coast of Malaysia after a long journey from Thailand, you may almost think that you accidentally traveled all the way to China. The city’s Chinatown is one of the largest and best preserved in the world, with everyday sights and sounds reminiscent of a small city in China.

Offerings at a local shrine. Photo by Sam Sherratt.

Most residents are descended from Chinese immigrants who arrived in Penang during the colonial era and made their fortunes as traders and shopkeepers. Many of their original shops are still intact today.

Toronto

In the most ethnically diverse city in the world, residents have their pick of seven Chinatowns. The city’s main Chinatown was formed in the late 1960s, when many businesses in the original Chinatown were forced to move.

Vending mangoes off of Spadina Avenue. Photo by High Limitzz.

Since the 1980s, the Greater Toronto Area’s Chinese community has migrated to the suburbs of Scarborough, Mississauga, Richmond Hill, Markham, and North York, where shopping centers are reminiscent of Hong Kong’s malls and street stalls.

New York

New York’s first Chinese residents began arriving in Manhattan’s Lower East Side in the late 19th century to escape discriminatory measures on the West Coast. In the 1980s, the neighborhood eclipsed San Francisco’s as the largest Chinatown outside Asia.

Getting ready for the Chinese New Year’s parade in NYC. Photo by Bob Jagendorf.

But don’t overlook the city’s other Chinese enclaves – in Elmhurst and Flushing in Queens, and along Avenue U and 8th Avenue in Brooklyn. In fact, Flushing’s Chinatown has now surpassed Manhattan’s in size.

Vancouver

There’s a reason this city has been nicknamed “Hongcouver.” In the years leading up to Hong Kong’s 1997 handover to China, waves of wealthy immigrants flooded the city. The mayor, Sam Sullivan, even speaks Cantonese.

Discount DVDs at the night market. Photo by Dave O.

Vancouver’s Chinatown dates back to the early 20th century, although recent arrivals have headed for the suburb of Richmond, where many of the Chinese restaurants are considered the best outside of Hong Kong.

San Francisco

The city’s Chinese New Year parade, an annual event since the 1860s, is the largest Asian cultural celebration outside of Asia. Chinatown may seem like a tacky tourist trap, but one cannot ignore the history and significance of one of the world’s best-known Chinese quarters, once the stomping grounds of Sun Yat-Sen and Amy Tan.

Try a tea demonstration next time you find yourself on Grant Street. Photo by Ben Mason.

The original enclave, built in the 1850s by settlers who had arrived during the gold rush and railroad days, would be the world’s oldest had it not been destroyed in the 1906 earthquake. Since the 1960s, much of the city’s Chinese community has moved into the Sunset and Richmond districts, while newer immigrants often settle in the suburbs around the Bay Area.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

To read about a Chinatown really off the beaten path–in Havana, Cuba–check out Julie Schwietert’s blog, “Ni hao, companera.”

Some of the world’s Chinatowns are the perfect spots for you to practice your bargaining skills — brush up before you go, with our guide to haggling. And check out Matador community member Hal Amen’s recent blog post from London: Your Friendly Neighborhood Chinatown.

The country produces more varieties than there are days in a year, and many come with personalized glasses in which only that type may be served.

But beer isn’t all the country has to offer. On your next trip to Brussels, Belgium’s capital, sober up with some of these other activities.

1. Ascend the Atomium.

Built in 1958 when Brussels hosted the World’s Fair, the Atomium is a cross between sculpture and architecture.

It’s modeled after a crystallized molecule of iron magnified 150 thousand million times.

Escalators take visitors to expositions in the various spheres, and the upper sphere houses a restaurant, Chez Adrienne.

2. Experience Mini Europe.

At the foot of the Atomium is Mini Europe, the only place where touring the continent takes just a few hours. Roughly 80 cities and 350 buildings are represented.

Marvel at impressive reproductions of Europe’s most attractive monuments, watch Mount Vesuvius erupt, and see a Finnish girl dive into icy waters.

3. Discover Old Town.

The crown jewel of Brussels’ Old Town is the Grand Place, built as a merchants’ market in the 13th century. Tour the striking Gothic town hall or people watch from a café. Then, wander the surrounding cobblestone streets.

Stroll through the Galeries St. Hubert, a glass roofed arcade lined with cafes, theaters, and luxury shops. Also be sure to see the Manneken Pis, the famous bronze sculpture of a boy peeing in a fountain.

4. Sample world-famous chocolate.

Learn about Belgian chocolate at the Chocolate Museum, then visit some of the Brussels’ most celebrated chocolate shops.

Wittamer, in the heart of the city, is a family-owned chocolatier that’s been in business since 1910. It’s the official chocolate supplier to the Belgian Court.

Pierre Marcolini, whose flagship store is located near the Grand Place, is a newer but welcome addition to the Belgian chocolate scene.

Marcolini opened his first store in 1995, the same year he was named the World Champion of Pastry.

5. Revisit the comic strips of your youth.

Did you know that Tintin was created by a Belgian artist? You would if you visited Brussels’ Comic Strip Museum. See original pages of comic artwork, sketches and memorabilia.

Learn how the Smurfs, also of Belgian origin, got their start. (Hint: They’re a spin-off!)

6. Savor moules frites.

When Bruxellois devour this unofficial national dish, they eat the first mussel with their fingers and then scoop up the rest using the empty shell as a utensil.

And what about the fries? They dip those in mayonnaise.

Moules frites can be found at most restaurants, but if you’re near the Grand Place, try the mid-range and delicious L’Estaminet du Kelderke.

7. See a puppet performance.

Nestled at the end of a cobblestone alley in Old Town is Café Toone, whose cozy building dates from 1696.

Enjoy a drink with locals downstairs, then head up to the attic for a show like no other: marionettes perform Shakespeare and other classics.

8. Take a tour.

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Hop-on, hop-off bus tours, offered by Brussels City Tours, give a good overview of the city’s most famous sights. Catch the bus outside Central Station.

For do-it-yourselfers, take a walking tour of Brussels’ most upscale designers, explore the city’s antique and flea markets, or experience its beautiful green spaces.

9. Visit the EU.

As the European capital, Brussels is home to the European Union headquarters. Take an audio-guided tour of the European Parliament, the elected body of the EU.

During sessions, you can even attend a parliamentary sitting. Check for session dates here.

10. Okay, a little bit of beer…

Near the South train station, which connects Brussels to other cities in Europe, is one of the last traditional breweries, Cantillon.

Almost nothing has changed since the brewery opened in 1900.

See the open vats where their signature Lambic beer is cooled, and the oak wood barrels where it’s aged for up to three years.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If Brussels is but one stop on your trip around Europe and you’re on a budget, check out Matador’s list of Top 10 Free Things to Do in Europe.

All photos by author.

Looking out to the Mediterranean from the hill city of Haifa, on a peninsula jutting out from Israel’s northwestern coast, you just may see a sliver of land in the distance: Lebanon.

It was barely visible one gray afternoon in the spring, as was a lone naval ship, presumably protecting Israel’s shores.

Together, these two images served as a subtle reminder of the summer two years before, when missiles shot by Hezbollah rained down on the city. Incoming missile alarms sounded multiple times a day, and Haifa effectively shut down for the month of July as residents holed up in underground shelters.

The shuttered Haifa still dominates the world’s perception of the city, but it is not the only Haifa its residents know.

Photo by david55king

The Treasure Chest

Haifa, often likened to San Francisco or Naples, seems to rise magically from the sea. Flowing for a half mile down the side of the tiered city are the varied colors of 19 terraces. Collectively, they look like a rainbow punctuated in the middle by its treasure chest: the golden-domed shrine of the Baha’i prophet, Bab.

It is a beautiful sight, but also a perplexing one. Why are the headquarters of the Baha’i faith located in Haifa, a city in the Jewish state, a country in the Muslim Middle East?

The simple answer is that Bahá’u'lláh, founder of the Baha’i faith, lived and died here after being exiled from a number of other places — but a more poetic explanation is offered by many Haifa residents.

“The shrine symbolizes the tolerance of citizens here,” said Ayala Klingman, a retired musician and piano teacher who has lived in Haifa for 20 years.

Haifa may be the only place in the region where members of five faiths — Judaism, Christianity, Islam, Druze and Baha’i — live and work peacefully side by side.

In 1902, Theodor Herzl, founder of modern Zionism, dubbed Haifa “the city of the future,” and it is well on its way to fulfilling that prophecy. Israelis describe Tel Aviv as wild and cosmopolitan, Jerusalem as ancient and mysterious, and Haifa as an awakening beauty.

Since Herzl’s proclamation, the city’s population has swelled from less than 20,000 to over a quarter million.

Yet somehow Haifa is largely undiscovered by foreign travelers. A stop on many whirlwind tours of Israel and a transit hub for visits to places further north such as the Golan Heights, it is a main destination for few. This is a shame, as there is so much to see.

Photo by Bossplot

The Three-Tiered City

Haifa is divided into three tiers. The lowest of these offers miles upon miles of sandy Mediterranean beaches, beloved by locals but free from tourist crowds, as well as Israel’s largest port and a number of industrial areas.

“Tel Aviv plays while Jerusalem prays, but Haifa works,” goes the common saying. While Haifa’s port and oil refinery still employ many residents, the city, home to Technion, the Israel Institute of Technology, has also recently attracted a number of high-tech corporations.

The main attraction of the middle tier, made up of residential areas and the business district, is Ben Gurion Boulevard, the lively heart of the German colony, with its trendy shops and restaurants.

Photo by vad_levin

The top tier, the Carmel District, has green parks and lovely homes. Yefe Nof Street, appropriately nicknamed Panorama Street, has a spectacular view of the sea both by day and by night. It is also the starting point of numerous nature trails that wind down Mount Carmel to the Haifa Bay.

The city’s extensive public transportation system makes it easy for visitors to explore. The various levels are connected by the Carmelit, Israel’s only underground subway, a futuristic-looking aerial cable car, and numerous long flights of stairs. The city also has a reliable public bus system.

“The beauty of the city,” marvels tour guide Yair Herdan, who has lived all of his life in Haifa, is “mountains and sea together with forests and a port – an awakening beauty indeed.”

Visitor Info

HOW TO GET THERE

Travelers coming from Greece and Turkey can land in Haifa’s small regional airport, but those coming from the U.S. must fly into Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv (El Al offers direct flights from New York for approximately $1,500), and then take a train (about $12), or private taxi (about $100) the 55 miles to Haifa.

WHERE TO STAY

Located in Central Carmel, the bustling district atop Mount Carmel, is the five-star Holiday Inn Bay View (Yefe Nof Street, 04/835-0835, www.ichotelsgroup.com). Double rooms start at $170 and feature sweeping views of the Haifa Bay as well as the Galil Mountains. The comfortable Haifa Meridian Hotel (David Elazar Street, 04/850-8888, www.fattal.co.il) offers sea view rooms starting at $190 and easy access to the best of Haifa’s beaches.

Photo by david55king

WHERE TO EAT

The Renee Restaurant (Yefe Nof Street, 4/837-5602), located in a beautiful stone house overlooking the Haifa Bay, offers local meat, fish and pasta favorites and a good selection of wines. At Isabella (Ben Gurion Street, 4/855-2201), located in the German colony, enjoy Italian and Arab dishes as you look out at the Baha’i gardens.

WHERE TO SHOP

Watch local artists work at the Castra Art, Recreation and Shopping Center (Moshe Fliman Street, 04/859-0000), where you can buy their goods and oftentimes create your own alongside them. The Panorama Center (Ha Nassi Avenue, 4/837-5011) in Carmel Center is a good modern shopping mall, and Hertzl Street in the Hadar neighborhood is a bustling outdoor bazaar with plenty of reasonably priced goods.

community connection

Interested in more on Israel? Learn the 10 Customs You Should Know Before Studying Abroad in Israel or read this thoughtful essay on How Conflict Shapes the Culture of Israel.

Photo above by Graham King

Whether you seek wilderness adventure, immersion in a unique culture, or a spiritual journey, a trek through Bhutan’s mountains puts you in the heart of this little-known Himalayan Kingdom.

Here are some considerations for first-time trekkers:

The Basics

Trekking in Bhutan involves a multi-day trip, arranged like a camping expedition. This is due to government guidelines and because many areas are remote, devoid of accommodations. It is not uncommon to walk for several days before encountering a village.

A typical day consists of 5 to 7 hours of walking among some of the world’s most pristine natural surroundings, including subtropical jungles, alpine highlands, and snow-capped peaks.

You will be accompanied by a licensed Bhutanese guide, cook, and mules or yaks that carry tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment, food and other supplies.

In a nation steeped in Mahayana Buddhist traditions, the mountains are sacrosanct, housing deities. As such, you cannot scale peaks higher than 6,000 meters. At 7,570 meters, Gangkhar Puensum, the highest mountain in Bhutan, remains the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

While treks range from easy to strenuous, it helps to be moderately fit. Daily altitude gain is relatively high, so be aware of how best to acclimate your body.

Photo above by jmhullot

When to Go

The best high altitude trekking seasons are in late April, when colorful bursts of wildflowers dot the landscape, or during the pleasant, clear days of October.

Short treks at lower elevations are possible during most months. You can also time your visit to coincide with one of Bhutan’s colorful festivals, getting a glimpse inside the dzongs, or fortress-monasteries, that serve as administrative, religious, and social centers.

Climate varies significantly by region. The north, bordering Tibet, is perennially covered with snow. The central regions enjoy four distinct seasons similar to those of Western Europe, and the subtropical south is hot and humid. Monsoon rains pelt the country from June to September.

Photo above by jmhullot

The Treks

There are more than a dozen treks, ranging in difficulty. Some combine scenery and culture, passing dense pine and oak forests on the mountainside; whitewashed dzongs overlooking valleys; and chortens, squat monuments housing sacred Buddhist relics.

Druk Path is a week-long trek that crosses mountains connecting the valleys of Paro and Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital. The sparsely populated route winds around freshwater lakes, and if your timing is right, dozens of varieties of scented rhododendron bloom in late spring.

Photo above by babasteve

Bumthang Cultural and Gangtey Nature treks are shorter, lasting from two to four days. Gangtey passes through isolated valleys, including the winter home of rare black-necked cranes.

Of the thousand or so trekkers who visit each year, most head for Jhomolhari, the third highest peak in Bhutan and “abode of the Goddess Jhomo.” Following the river, the trek offers some of the best mountain scenery, including highland villages, yak pastures, and a base camp embedded in natural beauty.

Taking two weeks, the Jhomolhari – Laya – Gasa trek is an extension of the above. It weaves through the high Himalayas, leaving the Jhomolhari trail and heading east along the Tibetan border to Laya, and then south to Gasa and its hot springs.

Lunana Snowman is one of the hardest high altitude treks, involving walking and living in remote areas beneath the peaks of 6 mountains, each over 7,000 meters high. The mystical trail crosses nine passes, taking you by villages and nomad groups, and through forests of blue pine, juniper and rhododendron.

Plan Ahead

You cannot visit Bhutan on a whim as the government controls the number of travelers allowed into the country each year. Arrangements must be made through registered Bhutanese tour operators beforehand, and you have the choice of customizing your own trip or joining a pre-planned tour.

Each visitor is required to pay a fee of US $200 per day. This sounds steep, but it includes taxes, accommodations, meals, a licensed guide, camping equipment and haulage for treks. This fee applies across the board, whether or not you go trekking.

The easiest way to get to Bhutan is by air. Druk Air, the national airline, is the only carrier that serves Paro Airport, offering flights from Bangkok, Kathmandu, Delhi and several other South Asian cities.

There are plenty of online resources. For starters, check out Matador editor Tim Patterson’s excellent guide to, and impressions of, Bhutan.

Photo above by Graham King

The Tourism Council of Bhutan also provides handy information, including a list of tour operators (many of whom have their own websites), local news and events, approved treks, and the latest on travel regulations.

And finally, get a copy of seasoned trekker Bart Jordans’s Bhutan: A Trekker’s Guide , including insights on numerous trails, a comprehensive trek grading system, and information on trekking for families with children.

GOODS

These earthy wines, whose color is reminiscent of the orange-red soil of the region, inspired me to visit the wilds of the Corbieres. There I found more great wine, good food, incredible places for walks and hikes, and a stunning history, that of the Cathars.

In the middle ages, particularly the 12th and 13th centuries, the Cathars were a spiritual-religious group of people all across France who interpreted Christianity differently from the surrounding Catholic orthodoxy. They were especially concentrated and well-received in the south, in and around the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

They followed what they saw as a more authentic spiritual path, one that held the sensory and material world as the deception of a false god, not a divine creation. The path out of this deception was to deny the material world its power, to live a simple life, and to focus on one’s spiritual origins.

Woven into these fundamentals were the practice of vegetarianism, equality of the sexes, belief in reincarnation, and forsaking material consumption for power and display.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

In Languedoc, the Cathars were protected by the count of Toulouse and permitted to carry on their ways, unlike in other parts of France where Catharism was treated as heretical. This held until the early 13th century when the Cathars were deemed too successful and independent.

Both the king of France and Pope Innocent III wanted dominion over them: what they really wanted was possession of the south. Together, king and pope came down on the Cathars in a crusade, Christian against Christian, massacring anyone in their path.

Called the Cathar Crusade or the Albigensian Crusade, after the southern city of Albi, this is one of the darkest marks in the history of France and of Christianity.

Today, there is still a somber and mournful feel to the sites. As you travel through a vast sea of vineyards and rolling hills, you encounter countless crumbling castle-fortresses on hilltops, reminders of a dangerous past.

There is also a surviving spirit, whispering that the Cathars survived in their own way, and that tolerance is far more valuable than what’s gained through greed and corruption. The Cathars today are something of a romantic group in the country’s imagination. Some people even say there are living Cathars in these remote hills.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

Here are my recommendations on how to enjoy this region in a low-key and affordable way:

1. You really can’t go wrong on any road you take.

This is especially true if you head from the north around Béziers, Narbonne to Carcassonne, then south to Foix, Limoux, Quillan, Lagrasse, and Durban.

All along the way, vineyards welcome unscheduled drop-in visits and tastings with colorful and often creative roadside signs. You’ll find a warm and welcoming people, so don’t be shy to give it a go and don’t worry if your French consists of the rudiments of the last pages of your travel guidebook. Wine is a universal language and easily understood.

2. Whether you opt to walk, cycle, or drive, follow the Cathar Trail.

The Cathar Trail, or Le Sentier Cathar, gives one of the best cross sections of the Corbieres, not to mentioncovering the major Cathar sites of the wider region. The trail is around 250 kilometers and starts in Narbonne.

It continues to Port-la-Nouvelle, Durban, Padem, Duilhac, Galamus, Bugerach, Quillan, Puivert, Espezel, Comus, Montségur, Roquefixade, and on to end in Foix.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

3. Take a few detours:
• Renne-le-Chateau, near Couiza, for a seriously New Agey place dedicated to both Mary Magdalene and Cathar history
• Limoux for the warm cheer of the town. Take a picnic lunch along their river, and and try the Blanquette de Limoux, a solid sparkling wine that has absorbed the red mineral of the soil.
• The castle at Arques, offering a lovely drive through low green hills, along valley streams, and deep into that red earth.

4. The entire Aude, of which Corbieres is a part, is dotted with vineyards and little restaurants and cafes advertising the local vintages and fare. Corbieres has a huge variety of terroirs, a fact you’ll easily understand as you wind around its hills, forests, and streams that result in several different growing zones.

Keep your eye open for restaurants and cafes where the locals are gathering; these are a sure sign of a good place.

Some Resources:

The Cathar Way – A Walker’s Guidebook by Alan Mattingly (ISBN: 9781852844868), published by Cicerone Guides.

The Sentier Cathar – In the Footsteps of the Cathars

The Cathars of Languedoc

Matador member toby has blogged about another French wine warren, the Rhone Valley. And Matador contributing writer Craig Martin gets you up to speed on wine know-how in his informative article, How To Drink Wine Like a Pro.

Oeno travelers may like to record their favorite wines and wine experiences in The Little Black Journal of Wine: A Wine Lover’s Record Keeper

If you are traveling alone, tapas bars both pull and repel: you want to be a part of the mob scene, eating and drinking, but you feel you’ll stick out, or it’s so crowded you don’t have your own mob of friends to help push you in.

Many times in the past I’ve wandered by a packed tapas place in Spain’s cities and was dying to go in but felt intimidated as a solo female traveler. But after 22 years of facing the invisible barrier, I’ve overcome the psychological obstacles that held me back.

Photo by jenny downing

Here are 5 tried and true tips to have a marvelous time joining the mob scene at tapas places and enjoying some of Spain’s best cuisine:

1. Pick the tapas place well.

Many cities in Spain have certain streets known exclusively for their tapas. Ask around for these spots. Once there, go into the places that are mobbed with warm, gregarious locals. This is always the sign of a place with great tapas and a welcoming attitude.

2. Read the menu from the outside.

From the edge of the bar, locate the chalk board or printed listing of tapas being offered and decide what you want. Memorize it, as well as what you want to drink. Then slowly move in.

Photo by clspeace

3. Don’t be intimidated when you order.

Everyone is packed in? No room at the bar to place your order? No matter, Spanish bartenders are some of the most aware and mindful people on the planet. Have faith in them and patiently worm your way toward the bar.

As you do, one of two things will happen. Either the bartender will make eye contact and expect you to tell him what you want to drink and eat, or, the sea will start to part and you’ll eventually get to the bar counter and can place your order there.

Then, hold the spot for as long as you like. Or, pay up and carry your drink and tapa out to the edge again. I prefer holding the spot. It’s more central and fly-on-the-wall-ish.

Photo by Brian Solis

4. As you eat and drink, exude confidence.

Do whatever it takes, a silent mantra, if necessary: “I belong here, I am a part of this afternoon/night, I belong.”

Suddenly, you do belong, you have a place. Spaniards love confidence and honestly. Even if no one is meeting you there or talking to you, you obviously are there for some good reason. That confident look says it all. Relax, soak it up, watch people, take in what they are eating and drinking, what they are wearing and talking about.

In doing this, you expand the sensory experience of these rich, vibrant places.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

5. When you are done, move on.

Check out the next place that strikes your fancy. Or, locate the perfect spot for dinner and when you are seated, exude the same confident posture and look. It’s infectious.

One last parting word of advice: In the big cities and the really swank and touristy parts of town, always know where your wallet is and don’t have anything on you that can be easily pick-pocketed or that is of great value. This foresight also makes for a more relaxing and enjoyable night out.

Community Connection

For more on Spain, including blogs, local travelers to connect with, local experts to show you around, and volunteer opportunities, please check out Matador’s Spain page.

Feature photo by Son of Groucho. Photo above by that_james.

Photo by icanteachyouhowtodoit.

Last Halloween, I stumbled into the town of Puente la Reina, in Spain’s Navarra region. I had just walked 30 kilometers from Pamplona on the Camino, the pilgrim’s road to Santiago de Compostela.

While leaving Pamplona that morning, I noticed university students had posted flyers all along the roadway announcing a huge Halloween party on campus that night. People were urged to wear outrageous costumes and were enticed by promises of door prizes, strong elixirs, and general good cheer.

By the time I made my way to that night’s camp in tiny Puente la Reina, I was so exhausted that I forgot what day it was… until three miniature ghouls, a witch, and a pumpkin swooshed by.

They were local kids dressed up for the night and they were going from shop and café to shop and café along the main drag in town, which just happened to be the millennia-old pilgrim’s road to Santiago.

In Puente la Reina I learned that while Halloween involves the familiar costumes and trick-or-treating, it all revolves around local food shops and cafes rather than homes. Café and shop owners all had baskets of candies at their doorways, ready for the little ghosts and goblins.

Photo by padesig.

The Old New Halloween in Spain

An import more or less, Halloween is still a pretty new phenomenon in Spain. But the north seems to celebrate it more than the rest of the country, and the reasons are profoundly ancestral.

Many regions in northern Spain claim archaeological evidence for early Celtic-speaking inhabitants who arrived anywhere from 3,000 to 2,500 years ago in Iberia and mixed with the indigenous Iberians, or made their way into remote reaches of the north and northwest and created their own cultural region there.

In these regions today there is a growing Celtic revival that couples with interest in related holidays imported from other Celtic-loving lands.

One is Halloween, better called Samhain, Noche de los Muertos (Night of the Dead), or in the farthest northwest of Galicia, Noite dos Calacús (Night of the Pumpkins). Other Celtic-inspired holidays found in spots in the north are Lughnasad and Beltane, the latter overlapping with summer solstice and St. John’s Day.

While Halloween throughout Spain is mostly celebrated in the manner I discovered in Puente la Reina, there are some communities, such as Cediera along Galicia’s northern coast, where locals carve pumpkins, light bonfires, and imbibe quemadas—the local fire water infused with herbs and set aflame—a proclaimed ancient drink of their Celtic ancestors.

It is linked symbolically to the act of burning off bad luck and clearing dark energies at this dangerous time of year. In these areas you might discover modern-day druids and priestesses taking the “thinning of the veil between worlds” very seriously.

Photo by cesarastudillo.

How to Join the Halloween Festivities in Spain

If you are not in the cities, Halloween really is a children’s holiday. But in the big cities, and especially in the university towns, there are bound to be costume parties with cauldron themes posted about town on walls and lightposts. Most will have some nominal admission fee plus the mandatory costume.

And whether you find yourself in a big town or small, you can always do what the adults do when the 31st rolls around: continue your daily enjoyment of the shops, bars, and cafes over a steaming café con leche or a deep glass of earthy Rioja red to take off the chill as the little devils home from school swirl about.

If you go to Spain during Halloween, be sure to stick around a few more days and take in the more traditional Dia de Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day). Unlike Halloween, this holiday is more traditional and is observed everywhere in Spain as a time to honor the dead.

People head to cemeteries with magnificent flowers and gather around the tombs as they do in a café, celebrating life and enjoying being there. Afterwards, most head to a café or restaurant or family home to soak up the rest of the afternoon over food, wine, and conversation with family and friends.

Community Connection:

Curious about the ancient pilgrimage mentioned at the start of this article? Check out our Audio Guide to the Camino de Santiago, or this post about lessons learned on the famous trail.

From the subtle to the macabre (and the downright quirky), here are seven things to check out should you find yourself here on October 31, craving fright or fun.

1. Spirit Houses

Spirits are everywhere, and it is readily apparent that animist beliefs and superstitions color everyday life for Thais, a majority of whom are Buddhists.

Every home or building has a dollhouse-sized shrine on its premises, ranging in style from traditional Thai architecture and ornate kitsch to modern minimalism.

Regardless of form, the shrine serves as an altar for gifts to appease guardian spirits of the land. Aside from offerings of fruit and flowers, it is not uncommon to see figurines of people and animals, carbonated beverages, and model cars inside the shrine.

It’s widely known that accidents or bad luck afflict those who fail to acknowledge the rights of the supernatural beings who rightfully dwell on the grounds.

Photo by zoonabar

2. Fertility Shrine

Hidden on the manicured grounds of the Nai Lert Park Hotel (BTS: Chidlom Station) is the shrine of Chao Mae Tubtim, a female fertility spirit.

Piled with hundreds of phallic offerings, from realistic wooden carvings to stone sculptures that stand ten feet tall, this unusual display may make you snicker or blush.

Women seeking to conceive leave offerings of jasmine garlands or lotus buds, and if their wish is granted, return to place yet another phallus in gratitude.

Sexual imagery is not uncommon in Thailand. These particular phalluses or lingams originate from the Hindu god Shiva, and are commonly associated with protection and good luck.

3. Real-life Horrors

Lurid, gruesome, and horrible are words that best describe the exhibits at Siriraj Hospital’s Medical Museum.

A combination of six museums, including ones dedicated to anatomy and forensic science, the building houses organs with stab or bullet wounds, the intricate web of an extracted nervous system, and diseased body parts, including an elephantiasis-swollen testicle.

The Museum’s most sinister exhibit is the moldering corpse of Si-Oui, a notorious serial killer and cannibal from the 1950s. Hanging vertically in a glass case, his darkened, waxy, and naked body seems almost unreal.

Perhaps the most heart wrenching are the conjoined twins, stillborns, and infants with deformities. True to Thai spiritual beliefs, locals leave offerings of candies and tiny plastic toys for the babies.

To get here, take the Chao Phraya River Express Boat to Rot Fai (also called Bangkok Noi) Pier on the western side of the river.

Photo by 13bobby

4. Frightening Folklore

Sometimes lore becomes larger than life. In the case of Mae Nak, the fierce spirit of a devoted wife who died in childbirth gradually acquired the ability to reveal winning lottery numbers.

At Mahabut Temple (BTS: On Nut Station), devotees light candles, place garlands, and offer artifacts of daily life, including toys, diapers, and cosmetics, in front of a gold-encrusted statue of a mother holding a baby.

As they lie on the floor, Mae Nak eyes a flickering television, presumably watching her favorite program.

Nearby, others rub oil on the tree under which Mak Nak is buried, seeking winning numbers in the swirly patterns of the trunk. Not surprisingly, lottery ticket vendors and fortune tellers hover nearby.

5. Punishment-themed Park

Hell on earth, literally, is a 90-minute drive outside the city, towards the beach town of Bangsaen. In the gardens of Wang Saen Suk Monastery, garish sculptures of an emaciated male with a drooping tongue and a frightful female with a swollen belly and sagging breasts loom overhead, representing sinners.

Twenty or so life-sized figures join these unsavory characters. Each undergo some sort of punishment, including being sawn in half, smashed between giant clamps, and boiled in vats.

Make merit, in the form of a donation to the temple, for a better chance of avoiding such fates in the afterlife!

Photo by joeltelling

6. Revered Deity

The Erawan Shrine (BTS : Chidlom), with its four-faced Brahman idol, is a long favorite of Thais and foreigners, especially those from East Asian nations. The shrine was built in 1956 as part of the adjacent Erawan Hotel to correct construction site mishaps.

Today, heady incense thickens the air as worshippers exchange marigold garlands and small wooden elephants for the granting of wishes.

In 2006, a mentally ill man smashed the hollow statue and sadly, enraged bystanders subsequently beat him to death.

Many took this as a bad omen. Government critics charged that the destruction was a plot by embattled Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra to maintain power through black magic.

His response? “That’s insane.” (Thaksin’s currently in exile in Great Britain.)

7. Street Parties

Relating to spirits of another kind, Halloween has become another occasion for fun-loving Bangkokians to host boisterous celebrations.

Annual Halloween-themed parties take place in bars and clubs throughout central Bangkok. Silom Soi 4 (BTS: Sala Daeng), a gay-friendly area, throws a huge outdoor bash, with high-spirited revelry spilling out of its many bars, restaurants, and clubs.

Community Connection

Several Matador Community members recently got together for an evening out on the town in Chiang Mai – here’s Stu’s blog about the event, or Ross Borden’s post about the night the two Matador co-founders hit the town in Bangkok.

Matador members are making connections all around the world. Join the community today!

Between the waters of the Gulf of Oman and the crags of the Western Hajar Mountains, you’ll find a distinctly Arabic pastime: bull wrestling.

Every Friday, prized bovines are trucked in from all over the Emirates and the neighboring Sultanate of Oman to the bull wrestling capital of the Arabian Peninsula: Fujariah, United Arab Emirates (U.A.E.).

Huffing, snorting and puffing themselves up, these hump-backed Brahmin bulls aim to psych out their opponents long before being led to the ‘ring’. The ‘ring’ (which consists of nothing more than a dirt field) lies between a white sandy beach and a black-top road leading to the Omani border.

Picnicking spectators line the perimeter in clothes that have been worn for centuries in the Gulf: colorful turbans, dark veils, white dishdashas (male shirt-dresses) and black abbeyyas (flowing female gowns).

Amidst this millennium-old tradition (Arabian bull fighting purportedly predates Islam), twentieth century flourishes pop through here and there: a video camera phone in the henna painted hand of a veiled woman; an electronic bullhorn in the MC’s grip; Hummers and Mercedes in the sand parking lot.

The announcer gives a frenzied blow-by-blow report of the head butts and the crowd jostles for position. Warily pulling smoke from their wooden pipes, owners carefully watch the action. Trainers stand at the ready.

Like a sumo wrestler, the bull that loses ground or turns tail and backs down forfeits the match. Unlike their two-legged Japanese counterparts, however, these bad boy Brahmins have to have their horns forcibly unlocked even after a winner is announced. Corner men, trainers (and spectators even) rush in, grabbing the bull’s tethers.

A tug-of-war between man and beast ensues. This gets the crowd going almost as much as when a tug-of-war participant loses his footing and soils his dishdasha.

As the sun dips below a blue horizon, the lawn chairs, rugs and picnic baskets are packed up as unceremoniously as the bulls are loaded into Toyota pick-ups. The big boys of the U.B.F. (Ultimate Bull Fighting) circuit can now look forward to another week of pampered bliss: milk, honey and relaxation amidst the verdant palm groves of the U.A.E.

Who? You, the next time you’re in Dubai.

What? Arabian bull wrestling.

When? Every Friday from 4-7PM.

Where?Fujariah, on the East Coast of the U.A.E.

How? In a shared taxi from Dubai, costing about 25 Dirhams.

Why? Because if you haven’t experienced what makes a place unique, have you really experienced it?

Community Connection

Be sure to read Baxter Jackson’s essay Muslim Fear: How Teaching In Oman Taught Me The Shades Of Islam.

For more destination ideas in the Middle East, check out Benjamin Orbach’s excellent guide to 6 under-the-radar destinations in the Middle East

In this article are five must-see destinations for independent travelers seeking unique adventure activities and cultural immersion. Information about local companies that can help you genuinely connect with new people and places is also included.

Northern Interior, Peru

Photo by morrissey

For many travelers, Peru has become synonymous with Machu Picchu.

However, in the largely undiscovered North, Peru’s rich culture combines with extraordinary opportunities for adventure activities as well as more gentle nature and wildlife experiences. My colleagues at Xola worked in Peru for several weeks this spring and turned up the following off-the-radar itinerary.

From Chiclayo, drive to Chachapoyas, home to the ancient People of the Clouds before the Inca took over their civilization.

The basis for this culture’s name was evident as our car edged up the mountain in dense cloud cover until we were rewarded at our destination with a stunning view of sharp mountain peaks poking through downy, white clouds.

Hike or ride horseback through the area to view the ruins that archaeologists are just starting to map and excavate. The massive fortress at Kuelap is quickly gaining recognition as “the Machu Picchu of Northern Peru,” with over 400 buildings enclosed by a 70-foot stone wall.

The members of the Xola team were the only visitors at the site that day, and marveled at how the Chachapoyas people created this stone compound atop a mountain without the use of the wheel.

The burial ground of Karajia features impressive capsule-like tombs built into the hillside. Stop by the museum in Leymebamba to view over 200 mummies recovered from the remote Lake of the Condors.

Feature photo bysenorhans.

When you have had your fill of cultural history, take a kayak down the Utcumbamba River, explore the colonial town of Levanto, or wander the Sunday market at Tingo. Be sure to try the milanesa at La Tushpa restaurant in town!

Contact: El Chillo, a family-run home-stay that can organize trips to area attractions – they also have their own hydroelectric plant and trout farm, and the fresh trout is delicious! (511) 265-9158. Also: InkaNatura (www.inkanatura.com ) 074 20-9948, Kuelapperu (www.kuelapperu.com) 001-407-583-6786.

Assam, India

For an experience of India not frequently sought out by international travelers, try heading to the northeast, to the state of Assam. In India, where tourism is growing at a pace of more than 13% a year, very few people venture to Assam – barely over 7,000 people made it there in 2004.

Land in Guwahati, Assam’s capital city, and board the train for a journey through a maze of tunnels. Disembark at the Southern Hill Station of Haflong, where you can explore an area of the state not easily accessible by road.

The surrounding North Cachar Hills are dotted with tiny villages where visitors are eagerly welcomed. Contact Meri Hmar (merihmar@yahoo.co.in) at the International Fund for Agriculture Development (IFAD) to arrange multi-day treks in the hills with overnight lodging at the various home-stays in villages along the way.

After Haflong, take the train to Dibrugarh to experience Upper Assam’s green tea gardens and the wide Brahmaputra River flanking the northern border of the town. In nearby Dibru-Saikowa National Park, glide over the Brahmaputra in a long wooden boat while sighting rare birds and herds of feral horses.

Purvi Discovery, run by Manoj and Vineeta Jalan in Dibrugarh, leads trekking and horseback riding tours around Upper Assam and the neighboring states of Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland. They operate several heritage tea bungalows in Dibrugarh and camps in Arunachal.

Contact: Purvi Discovery (www.purviweb.com/index.htm) at +91 373 2301120, 2300035

Photo by rietje

Kekova, Turkey

Find relief from the crowds that flood Istanbul, Cappadocia, and other popular tourist destinations by heading to the remote island of Kekova and the ancient villages of Simena (Kale) and Teimiussa (Ucagiz) on the Turkish coast. In the second century, a series of massive earthquakes shook the area, leaving behind an entire city of impressive ruins just a few feet below the clear water of the Mediterranean.

Our friends have said they admire the unique character of this place that intertwines culture and nature with the low-key ambiance of coastal living. In a single day, you can swim in warm, turquoise waters rich with sea life, explore thousands of years of history, and linger for hours with the locals over a dinner of lamb kebobs and grilled fish in the cool evening air, often finishing close to midnight.

Join a kayak guide (approx. $50) out of nearby Kas to explore the ruins of Teimiussa and the sunken city off Kekova Island – our group was particularly enchanted by the Greek and Roman architecture, and the remains of stone stairs rising dramatically out of the water.

Stop for a refreshing swim in Tersane Bay before paddling on to Simena, an ancient and picturesque village accessible only by water. Wander the streets of this charming town, home to just 500 people, and explore its impressive medieval castle that dates to the 4th century BC.

Contact: Insight Travel in Kas at +90 242 836 3692 http://www.tour-turkey.com/kas-sea-kayaking-tours.htm

Photo by arnofoto

Southern Morocco

The town of Zagora lies deep within the Draa River Valley, where rocky desert begins to give way to golden sandy dunes. Explore the valley’s impressive relics, left behind by cultures dating back thousands of years: kasbah fortresses, rock paintings and engravings, and the Venus of Tan-Tan, the oldest human figurine ever found.

Mohammad, Jawad, and Khalid Chahid are three brothers operating Caravane el Haoudaj, a superior camel caravan business out of Zagora, and an excellent team to take you to the famed Tinfou Dunes. A one-time prisoner caught up in the Sahawari conflict, Mohamed Chahid is also a passionate civic leader who is proud of his country and bent on improving the lives of his countrymen.

Embrace a mystical experience –be mesmerized by the camel’s gait as it carries you through the trackless sand of the Sahara, revel in Khalid’s quiet singing from aboard the camel behind you, and sleep soundly in the starry desert in a traditional nomadic tent.

The Chahids can also make arrangements to take you to the soaring Erg Chebbi dunes which stretch east into the Algerian Sahara. Depart from Merzouga, a half-day’s drive from Zagora.

Contact: Caravane el Haoudaj; 91, bd. Mohamed V Zagora; CP 45900, Maroc; tel 00212 44 84 71 34, GSM 00212 62 13 44 05; email: haoudaj@hotmail.com or j.chahid@gmail.com

Photo by wonker

Bayan-Ulgii Aimag, Western Mongolia

Photo by jeff-bauche

In many ways, Western Mongolia is the ultimate adventure travel destination. Tourism is just starting to develop in this country where remote geography, nomadic traditions, and shifty political history have left it largely unchanged over the centuries.

The Bayan-Ulgii province is Mongolia’s ‘Root of the World’, where a rich Kazakh culture resides in a remote land of high mountains, even glaciers, steep slopes and rushing torrents.

Take a plane flight or travel overland from the capital city of Ulaanbaatar to Bayan-Ulgii in October to experience the traditional Eagle Hunt, unique to Western Mongolia and the Kazakh nomadic people. The art of training birds of prey, including massive golden eagles, is a 6,000 year old tradition that is an essential means of survival for the community.

Don’t miss the hunt, which is a remarkable event pitting the best hunters and birds in the area against each other in friendly competition. The festival offers an unforgettable opportunity to mingle with the local people and get a taste of their nomadic way of life.

Also drive to nearby Altai Tavan Bogd National Park for horseback/camel riding or hiking to the Potanin glacier in the highest range of the Altai Mountains. The local Environment Protection Agency offers English speaking guides and will issue permits and direct visitors on tours, such as to an ancient Hunuu burial ground.

Contact: Mongolian National Tourism Organization (www.mnto.org ), (11) 350441 r

Feature photo by Ruth L. Photo above by IanL.

Halfway from Florence to Arezzo, the train came to an unexpected halt. It was late August and steamy outside, and the train wasn’t air-conditioned. We sat there for at least half an hour, but no one uttered a word of complaint.

Instead, folks took the opportunity to eat lunch. Passengers chatted, mostly about the food. The unexpected setback turned into a pleasant afternoon reprieve. Here was Italy in a nutshell: enjoying the moment and not worrying about the destination. And of course, always, Mangia!

The best way to get the real deal Italy is to do it up slow and local. By planting yourself in a location for at least one week (instead of trying to “do” Italy in 10 days), you’ll experience more culture and joie de vivre than by running from one monument (or city) to the next.

Follow these 5 tips on traveling and eating slow all over Italy and you’ll do it up Italian style: nice and easy, piano, piano, slowly:

1. Understand Italy’s Diverse Regions

Keep in mind that the boot has 20 regions, each with its own indigenous culture, food traditions and climate. Each region is like a mini-country, with much to explore.

That’s why it’s imperative to pick an area and stay planted for at least a week. Visit the same café every day and chat up your neighbors. Before you know it you’ll feel like a native.

Tuscany

Birthplace of the Renaissance and home to countless influential personalities like Dante and Machiavelli, this region’s inhabitants are perhaps the most food-centric in the country. Whether you stay in Florence or in a medieval town like Lucca, rest assured everyone will take a healthy interest in what you are cooking and eating.

The food here is hearty and simple: from ribollita (soup made with vegetables, beans, and chunks of bread) to beefsteak and panzanella (salad made with bread).

Lazio

Steeped in history that goes back thousands of years, this region is home to ruins like Tivoli and Ostia Antica. Capital city Rome is home to endless pleasures, in terms of art and a robust culinary tradition.

When in Rome, do it like the Romans: eat delicacies like carciofi alla guida (twice fried artichokes), rigatoni con la pajata (calf intestines) or bucatini all’amatriciana (spicy tomato and pancetta sauce).

Veneto

Highlights of this northern region include the 15 mile-long open-air museum of the Brenta Canal, Verona (of “Romeo and Juliet” fame), and Venice, at one time the crossroads between Europe and the Orient.

With ingredients such as pomegranates, pine nuts, and raisins, the exotic flavor remains in dishes such as seafood risotto. Beans and polenta are commonplace, as is minestra di pasta e fagioli (soup with pasta and beans).

Photo by MumbleyJoe.

2. Stay In a Vacation Rental

To truly experience Italy, you need more than a few days at a hotel or hostel. Forget the must-sees and long day trips. You’ll experience more culture by staying in one region, exploring your environs in concentric circles and settling in a home like a local.

Villas

Villas are like hostels, only a hell of a lot more fancy. Piedmont’s Villa San Lorenzo Di Bovicino includes walks through winding vineyards, hikes in the Alps, and visits to Liguria (think fresh pesto) and Turin (largest Egyptian museum outside Cairo; chocolate).

City apartments

These are ideal for singles or couples looking to get a taste of the La Dolce Vita. Stay at a flat in Rome built on the ruins of Pompey’s Theater – Rome’s first theater, located on via dei Chiavari, near Campo dei Fiori. Rates vary.

Local farms

For inexpensive accommodations, as well as the chance to see the Italy outside of art and museums – stay at Villa Grassina, 15 miles outside Florence, or at Fonte di Papa outside Rome.

Both of these agricultural stays will give you access to the outdoors and relaxation, yet you’re close enough to frequent the big cities for entertainment. You might also consider Wwoofing.

Photo by Agni dalle Bande Nere.

3. Do it like a Locavore.

It’s no coincidence that the Slow Food movement originated in Italy. What other country is so devoted to the art of eating?

To help support local economy and agriculture, buy fresh fare at local open-air markets.

And as noted by Kevin Gould, when it comes time to eat out, the best way to go local in Rome is to look for simple tavernas where you’ll most likely find local specialties and a relaxing atmosphere:

Rome: Dino’s Express, Via Tacito, 80

Perugia: Taverna del Lupo, Via Ansidei, 21

Florence: Taverna del Bronzino, Villa del Ruote 27r

4. Take the Train

Although it has occasional hiccups (like breaking down unexpectedly), taking the train across Italy is an experience worth writing home about. Traveling from point-to-point in Italy is inexpensive, and you can purchase a rail pass for longer trips such as Rome to Palermo.

This trip is long (10-13 hours), but worth the adventure. Once at the port of Villa San Giovani, the train cars are rolled onto barges for crossing of the Strait of Messina, which lasts about an hour. Then they are rolled back onto the tracks in eastern Sicily for the rest of the journey to Palermo. A one-way ticket costs about 73 euros.

Photo by Hyougushi.

5. Explore Backwoods Destinations

Don’t forget the less traveled but all the more interesting regions of Italy. You might see fewer museums here, but fewer tourists.

Abruzzo

With Abruzzo National Park and local delicacies like wild mushrooms and wild boar ham, and yes, plenty of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, how can you go wrong?

Puglia

Sparkling seas, a rugged landscape, and passionate local food traditions abound in the heel of Italy’s boot. Each month, a different food is celebrated, based on whatever is in season.

And you know those cute little pasta ears, orecchiette? Those are a national dish here, served with broccoli rabe and salted fish.

Sicily

With miles of vineyards to rival Piedmont and Tuscany, Italy’s largest island is unspoiled by modern life. The Mediterranean diet is king here, with plenty of local fish, lemons, and oranges. Add eye-popping blue seas and olive groves to the food feast, not to mention Sicilian gelato and local wines.

Community Connection!

Get in touch with Italy experts from the Matador community before planning your trip.

Suz, or “diastro Americano” as her Italian cousins call her, knows all the best wine bars and live music venues of Rome. Julianne is a writer and photographer, currently working on a book about the Italian Renaissance from her base in Venice. KatieBas has lived with her husband in Rome for over 5 years.

Photo above bykalleboo.

1. Trains, Trains, and Trains

Tokyo Station is a major hub of local trains, subway stops, and the famous high speed shinkansen. This train, if operated from the northernmost point in Japan (Cape Soya) to the southernmost cape (Sata), could take you across the length of the country in a little over ten hours, running at 200 km per hour.

Take advantage of trains by visiting the old capital of Kyoto, only two and a half hours away. The route cuts through the countryside, in and out of endless tunnels, with the occasional view of Mt. Fuji. Tourists have the opportunity to purchase the Japan Rail Pass, a ticket that provides unlimited access to nearly all trains within a given time.

If you stay within city limits, don’t fear – in Tokyo, you’ll never tire of watching people boarding the local lines for their morning commutes. If you think you’ve been on a crowded bus, or in a jam-packed rock concert, you have never seen anything quite like Japan Railways in the morning; staff are actually hired to be “pushers” – people whose sole purpose is to shove passengers into trains that are already at what westerners might consider full capacity.

Words just can’t do this justice:

With the exception of occasional suicides as people toss themselves on the tracks–a phenomenon that is actually quite common in Tokyo– this form of transportation is punctual to a fault: an 8:32 arrival means an 8:32:00 arrival, not one second wasted.

In the next 10 years, Tokyo and Osaka will be linked by one of the world’s few maglev (magnetic levitation) trains. East to central Japan in one hour. The speed? 581 kph. The price? One can only imagine.

2. Love Hotels

Japan, although conservative on many faces, maintains a very open-minded attitude about sex, whether this includes desensitizing youth to violent sexual activity in manga (Japanese comic stories), or creating a specific place for two young lovers to escape their parents and friends for an intimate rendezvous.

Love hotels provide quick, cheap, and sometimes automated love nests. Guests can choose to buy a “short rest” for a few hours, or book the room until 10 AM the next morning.

A variety of themes are available: the otaku (roughly translated… nerd) who wants a sci-fi adventure in the bedroom, the animal lover who might prefer to be surrounded by leopard skin, or vain couples who like to have mirrors covering 360 degrees of motion.

The largest concentration of love hotels is located just west of Shibuya Station, next to many less reputable shops… and upscale fashion outlets.

Photo by thecameo.

3. The Lights of Shinjuku

Impressive and monumental. The area surrounding Shinjuku Station exposes you to more square footage of advertising and media than anywhere else in the world. Just be careful not to cave to your consumer side!

4. A Sunday in the Park

You look around at all the things one might expect to see in a well-populated Japanese city – the schoolgirl in a tailored Prussian uniform, a no-smiles salaryman who is never in anything but a hurry… all this has vanished. In its stead, what you see in Yoyogi Park in Harajuku is nothing less than an outcry for expression, a shrugging-off of the rules and everything they stand for.

Every Sunday, and often, other days of the week, this area north of Shibuya is inundated with amateur musicians, street acts, starving artists, girls in Gothic makeup and black clothes, and jugglers, all joining young lovers looking for a quiet walk in a patch of green, and fathers tired from 18-hour weekdays but still able to enjoy playing catch with their sons.

Spend the day here, or stay for the afternoon – how many countries can say they have KISS cover bands performing on Sunday?

Photo by wili_hybrid.

5. Various Views

One reason the movie “Lost in Translation” was such an effective example of the loneliness of being abroad (in addition to having Bill Murray’s charming demeanor and Scarlett Johansson’s stunning visage) was the recurring view of the Tokyo skyline.

From the Park Hyatt Hotel in Shinjuku (location of most of the movie), one does get a sense of waking up in a strange place in a different world, and, from that height, no one can fool himself into believing home is just around the corner.

Although the city doesn’t exactly come across as having any major architectural sensations, the grey boxes that are the offices and homes of the multitudes of salarymen are quite the sight at night, or at sunset, or when Mt. Fuji can be seen to the west.

Try the expensive drinks at the New York Bar in the Park Hyatt, or check out the art exhibits perched atop Roppongi Hills. Although you may not find meaning in the expanse of lights that is the heart of Japan, it’s still enjoyable to share over a cup of coffee with a new friend.

6. The Attire

Even with the continued influence of Hollywood celebrity endorsements on brand-name clothes (Cameron Diaz and Brad Pitt are some of the more well-known sellouts in Japan), I’ve discovered Japanese keep their own standards on fashion and… ugh… what’s “hot.”

Photo by globetrotterl.

You might see a girl from Tokyo University decked out in high-heeled leather boots, short dark jean shorts, topped off with a leather metal-link belt, a white long-sleeve shirt with an interesting Engrish (see below) phrase, and necklace upon necklace upon necklace.

On the other hand, there are those who prefer to don makeup until their faces seem as though plastic, wearing a simple dress with white lace… living dolls.

Men are no exception, some a close second to the ladyboys of Thailand, others “selling” themselves at host bars in seedy areas of this great metropolis. In Japan, men and women play the roles of hosts and hostesses for those customers who wish to pay for conversation. Talking, drinks, and perhaps karaoke. Nothing more. For a more detailed look at this life, you might want to check out Lea Jacobson’s Bar Flower.

7. The Homeless of Ueno Park

The homeless problem in Japan is completely ignored by those in any position of authority. In Ueno Park, location of one of the larger homeless populations, you might find yourself surprised.

If I could say one thing about the homeless in Japan, it would be: I believe they keep their dignity. These are not people begging on the streets, scrounging for one yen coins in a pile of garbage; often you will see them clean, reasonably well fed, and no different than any other Japanese citizen.

Why? Public baths for one: cheap, efficient ways to get clean. And the value the Japanese place on the freshness of food; convenience stores and supermarkets will usually toss out bento (ready-made meals) in less than a day, and might accommodate any homeless person who is willing to consume such “spoiled” goods.

Housing is not exactly cheap in the heart of Tokyo, and cardboard or sheet metal shanties can be seen in Ueno. Dignity triumphs over adversity, though; the owners typically remove their shoes at the threshold of the makeshift house, just as they would entering any other respectable establishment.

Photo by leadenhall.

8. Store Fronts

In addition to being one of the more English-friendly countries, Japan makes it easy even for non-native speakers to find their way through the cuisine; whether you’re examining menus at sushi restaurants near Tokyo Station in or in one of the more obscure corners of Ueno, take note of the great care cafes will take to ensure you eat with them.

Wax models of some of the more popular dishes are available for viewing in glass cases at the entrance of these restaurants. It’s become such a standard around Japan that artists who create some of the better food sculptures can make a decent living.

And, just as you’d expect with places serving seafood, there might be tanks of live fish, which will shortly be sliced and served with wasabi; freshness is nothing less than a virtue in Japan (some fish are served cut, but with heart still beating to ensure the best possible flavor).

Of particular interest are the blowfish tanks, containing the expensive delicacy fugu, a fish known for its high concentration of poison in the internal organs. Although the dish is more of a novelty for tourists–it doesn’t really have too much flavor raw– the emperor remains the only Japanese forbidden to indulge.

9. Engrish

Photo by gilgongo

10. Pachinko

It’s like a drug – total oblivion, dissolution from reality, drowning in a mixture of red lights and deafening sounds. And, personally, I don’t think it’s all that fun, either.

Pachinko is the most widespread video game in Japan, available from almost any corner in Tokyo to the southern island of Yakushima. What is it? Technically, it’s a computerized version of pinball; a player launches multiple metal balls and maneuvers them into holes on the board, which, if they find their marks or achieve a certain sequence, activate a video screen slot game.

More winnings equal more metal balls. Metal balls equal prizes. Prizes equal money.

As one might expect, laws on gambling have simple loopholes. Just like in Vegas, there are 24/7 slot jockeys who spend entire days waiting for that one big payout to buy their next meal.

Stop by a nearby parlor for the experience (and maybe pick up a little cash), but be prepared to have your senses totally overwhelmed: flashing lights, painfully loud sounds, stale cigarette smoke…

Feature photo by dbking Photo above by Luo Shaoyang

When people dream of a trip to China, they imagine dramatic, mist cloaked peaks, the solitary and serpentine Great Wall, and small, alley neighborhoods functioning as they have for centuries.

Unfortunately, these things are becoming increasingly difficult to find as China continues to industrialize at an ever more dizzying rate. The pace and pollution of modern China often leaves travelers feeling frustrated and confused.

Still, there are many places that are, and likely will always remain, the very embodiment of a traveler’s fantasy. Following are eight of the very best:

Putuoshan

The small island of Putuoshan is a few hours by ferry from the mainland city of Ningbo, and only an overnight boat ride from Shanghai. Still, after coming from China’s congested coast, Putuoshan seems like another world.

The island is covered by temples, pagodas, and narrow, cobblestoned, streets. It is populated by monks, monkeys, and a few fisherman and ringed by their boats and the best beaches in northern China.

Putuoshan is an excellent and extremely accessible place to escape the hustle of the coast, and would make a perfect weekend getaway from Shanghai.

If you want more information on traveling to Putuoshan, a good place to start is this online guide.

Pingyao, Photo by spyderball

Pingyao

Located in central China, the small town of Pingyao makes an excellent stopover for travelers on their way to Xi’an.

Surrounded by a completely intact city wall dating to the Ming Dynasty, Pingyao allows the traveler to experience authentic imperial era architecture that has remained untouched by vigorous restorations and largely unspoiled by encroaching industry.

Certainly not unknown to tourists and travelers, Pingyao was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. Even though it can, at times, be crowded, Pingyao is an excellent place to get a taste of life in ancient China.

Xiahe

Located in northwestern China’s Gansu province, Xiahe is home to the Labrang Monastery, one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the world.

Often billed as a more accessible alternative to Tibet, Xiahe is, in fact, an excellent place to experience Tibetan culture in an intimate way.

The town is nestled in a mountain valley and though there has been some newer, Chinese-style, construction, the architecture is very much in a traditional Tibetan style.

Xiahe is very popular with foreign backpackers, but if the sound of familiar languages is getting you down there are numerous opportunities to escape.

Xiahe is a great jumping off point for further adventures, whether you are looking for an afternoon’s trek up a nearby mountain, or a multi-day overland journey through some of the most infrequently touristed terrain in China.

More basic information can be found at the Travel Guide China and, to get excited about visiting, check out this collection of photos.

Kanas Lake, Photo by Clemson

Kanas Lake

If you are looking to get as far away from the city, tourists, or people in general, as possible, than a trip to Kanas Lake is the answer.

Situated in the northern part of Xinjiang province, the lake lies close to the Russian border, amidst a landscape more characteristic of Siberia than the deserts of Xinjiang.

Getting to the lake is not easy. Without a prearranged tour, travelers must rely on one of the infrequent and irregular buses or a costly taxi.

Still, the trip to the lake itself, on a road that starts in the desert and climbs to grasslands and then into the mountains, is worth the effort.

Once there, visitors stay in one of several log cabins and can enjoy hiking, relaxing, and generally enjoying the natural scenery.

If you are lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the fabled “Kanas Lake Monster.”

Changbai Shan and Baihe

Changbai Shan is China’s largest nature reserve and offers near limitless opportunities for hiking and exploration. Located in the northeastern province, Jilin, Changbai Shan is an overnight train away from Beijing.

The closest town, which serves as a good entry point or base for day trips, is Baihe.

While not the most beautiful town in China, Baihe is small and relaxing, characterized more by its famous Meiren Song pine trees than its buildings and architecture.

If Baihe is not your style, or if you plan to spend several days in Changbai Shan, staying in one of the park’s guest houses may be the best option.

Though a little expensive by Chinese standards, these guest houses save a morning and evening bus trip, and allow you to explore less frequented areas of the park.

Lijiang, Photo by livepine

Lijiang and Tiger Leaping Gorge

You will not be able to spend much time in China before you hear the praises of Lijiang. Located in the southwestern province of Yunnan, the old town of Lijiang has been popular with backpackers for decades.

Lijiang is often used as a starting point for excursions to the villages of the many minority cultures populating the area.

In addition to this, the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge, which provides a scenic, three day, trek, is located just outside Lijiang. The trail winds through the gorge, one of the world’s deepest, offering some breathtaking and dizzying views, and passes by numerous lodges that provide food and accommodation.

The Tiger Leaping Gorge has been repeatedly threatened by hydroelectric development on the upper Yangtze River.

However, as of publication, all plans for development that would flood the gorge have been canceled. Still, it is well worth looking into before you plan a trip.

For a more detailed description of the trek, this personal account sums it up well.

Xishuangbana Region

Travelers coming from southeast Asia will feel right at home in Xishuangbana. Located in the deep south of Yunan province, the region is bordered by Laos and Myanmar. It is famous for its minority cultures, stilt houses, jungle treks, and lazy river cruises.

The central town is the uninspiring Jinghong, which serves as a base for journeys to the more picturesque villages surrounding it.

There are several buses that travel from Jinghong to the major outlying villages, but to find more secluded spots travelers take boats, rent bicycles, or even walk.

For more information about travel in Xishuangbana, visit this account of a bicycle trip through the region.

Tiger Leaping Gorge, Photo by livepine

Wenchang and Dongjiao Yelin

China is not often praised for its beaches. Much of the coastline of the mainland is, unfortunately, densely developed or features bleak views of industrial infrastructure.

However, finding a place for quality beach time in China is not impossible, and Dongjiao Yelin, a coconut plantation off Hainan Island, is the place to do it.

Dongjiao Yelin has slowly been attracting some resort development. Fortunately, most places have maintained a pleasant, relaxing, “thatched hut” style that has not tarnished the beautiful white sand beaches and clear blue waters.

The nearby town of Wenchang is the transportation link to the coconut plantation and beaches. Though it has a few of the “gray boxes” that characterize much of modern Chinese architecture, Wenchang is, for the most part, a small, quiet, town.

The best, most up to date, information on Dongjiao Yelin for budget-minded travelers can be found at the Haikou Banana Hostel.

Modern China is constantly growing and changing. Largely, this means it is about hustle and bustle.

If your travels in China are, or you fear they may become, more hectic and frustrating than enjoyable, give one of these destinations a try.

After a few days, you will forget all about the congestion and pollution, and rediscover what makes travel in China truly amazing: great food, ancient culture, and an incredibly open, friendly people.

Community Connection!

Some of Matador’s best writers and most inspiring people are currently in China. They include phishtopher, an anthropologist currently researching Tibetan narratives in western China and India, and sascha, a writer and shiftless hobo who survived the massive Chinese earthquake.

Thinking of studying in China? Check out the guide to study abroad in China over at the MatadorStudy blog.

For more reading on China, check out this collection of stories about China and Tibet.

Have you been to China? Did you discover any cool places? Share your travel tales by leaving a comment below!

Siwa, Egypt, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

The great pyramids of Giza, the pink facades of Petra, the blue minarets of Istanbul, and the storybook walled cities of Jerusalem and Damascus are some of the highlights that lure travelers to the Middle East.

If you make it to these postcard spots, you won’t go home disappointed.

But there is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Jerusalem called Rahmo, where they serve the best kubbe soup this side of an Iraqi or Kurdish grandmother’s kitchen.

And deep in the Western Desert, between the oasis of Siwa and Egypt’s border with Libya, there is a place where the stars shine brightly and rocket across the sky.

Whether you are traveling in pursuit of history, good food, nightlife, nature, spirituality, or the journey itself, here are six suggestions for lesser known stops across the Middle East that will make your trip truly one-of-a-kind.

Ancient Ruins

In Cairo, Egyptians boast of 7000 years of history. In Jerusalem, Israelis celebrated 3000 years of Jewish history. In Syria, both Damascus and Aleppo claim to be the oldest city inhabited on earth.

With great history come great ruins – the pyramids of Giza, the temples of Luxor and Karnak, the oval forum at Jerash, and Palmyra, Syria’s “bride of the desert.”

All of these ruins are fantastic, but to get off the tourist trail in your pursuit of history and magnificent ruins, visit St. Siman’s Basilica in northern Syria.

Dating from the 5th century, St. Siman’s is not as old as some of the region’s more notable sites, but its triple arched basilica is fantastic, a natural beauty actually – it hasn’t been restored.

St. Siman was a shepherd turned ultra pious priest. For 37 years, he stood atop a pillar and preached to the visiting faithful, who had heard of his righteousness from near and far and came in search of guidance and miracles.

While all that remains of the once 15 meter-tall pillar is a stone nub centered in the courtyard between the ruins of the four basilicas, the place is worth a visit.

The columns of St. Siman’s triple arched façade are crowned with elephant ear stone leaves that seem to blow in the wind.

The lack of tourists, the desert breeze, and the landscape views combine to make St. Siman’s serene. The site is an easy half-day trip from Aleppo, 60km away.

St. Simian carving detail, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Savory Food

The home of slowly roasted meat on a spit, cauldrons of freshly fried falafel, and bowls of humus and sweet olive oil, the Middle East is a foodie’s paradise.

Add to the mix mansaf, a communal lamb dish that you roll in your hand with rice and eat standing in a circle or maqlubeh, an upside down Palestinian rice dish with chicken, cauliflower, almonds, and spices, and you find yourself making Solomon-like decisions about what to have for dinner.

A lesser known contender to these delicacies is kubbe soup.

In the great tradition of savory ethnic dumplings that you’ve come to know and love (wontons, ravioli, and kreplach to name a few), kubbe are Iraqi-Kurdish pastries filled with shredded meat and spices, served in a choice of three different kinds of broth: tart vegetable, sweet tomato, and beet

They probably have great kubbe soup in Iraq, but I don’t think it is worth the trip.

Instead, go to one of Rahmo’s two locations in Jerusalem.

Rahmo serves Jerusalem’s best kubbe soup and is an institution almost as old as Israel itself. The original Rahmo is around the corner from the Iraqi market in Mahane Yehuda, Jerusalem’s bustling open-air market in the center of town.

The restaurant is cafeteria style and its clientele are working class; the restaurant cut its teeth feeding workers their meal for the day. While it may be of the people, Rahmo’s food is fit for a king.

Ignore the smell of the kerosene burners and enjoy the kubbe soup, a full meal that borders on a holy experience. The new Rahmo is near Zion Square, on Yoel Solomon street, in the center of the city.

Istanbul, Golden Horn, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Nightlife

Conventional wisdom across the Middle East dictates that if you are looking for a party, you should go to Beirut or Dubai. Both are home to beautiful people who spend lots of money in clubs that will make your ears bleed until well past dawn.

On the other hand, I’m not sure anyone has ever gone to Amman to party. While Jordan sets the region’s standard for hospitality, the country is generally known for its quiet on the nightlife front. Some, who love the country less than I, have even called Jordan “boring.”

Make no mistake, if you are traveling to the Middle East for nightlife, Amman should not be your first choice. Still, if you’ve come to Jordan for Petra and Jerash, and you find yourself in Amman on a Thursday night, Nih is where you want to be.

Nih is where Amman’s wealthy Jordanian and Palestinian yuppies come to party. Behind a gigantic wooden door and down a flight of steps, there is a secret loungy world where beautiful people dance on tables and eat and drink to their hearts’ content.

Located around the corner from the Howard Johnson’s in Shmesani, be sure to arrive early (before 10) or you probably won’t get in. Prices for food and drink are reasonable, certainly better than what you would pay in Dubai.

St. Simian ruins, Syria, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Nature

Bedouin plodding through the desert under the hot mid-day sun, they lead their pack-heavy camels by a leather strap. No other image is more associated with the Middle East, than that of the desert. And nothing irritates the people of the region more than the preconception that everyone here rides a camel.

Surrounding the region’s deserts, there are crowded cities and small villages built on top of the remnants of great civilizations. And there are green spots and nature reserves, too, especially in the countries of the Levant – Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, and even Jordan.

For nature lovers who prefer green to brown, and who are looking to get off the beaten path, head to the Golan Heights.

Prior to the 1967 war, the Golan was part of Syria; today, it is part of Israel. It takes less than five minutes in the Golan Heights to recognize the land’s beauty and value. The mountains are green, full of water, and overlook Israel’s largest water supply, the Sea of Galilee.

The strategic plateau is as close as 40KM away from Syria’s capital, Damascus. Though disputed land, the Golan is entirely safe and home to some wonderful hikes, the best is the very green upper trail of Nahal Yehudia, a national Israeli park.

Lined with waterfalls and swimming holes, there is a place where you are forced to jump (or descend a ladder bolted into a giant boulder if you are so inclined) into the cool water below. Visit in the spring and catch the yellow, red, pink, and black wild flowers.

View of Istanbul from Yoros Castle, Photo by Benjamin Orbach

Spirituality

Choosing a spiritual place off of the tourist trail in a part of the world full of God is tough. The history of the Islamic Empire resonates throughout the region in mosques that are in many cases each country’s finest work of art.

Within a few hundred feet in Jerusalem, you will find the remains of the Jewish Temples, the site of Christ’s resurrection, and the place where Mohammad ascended to heaven in his dream.

Yet for many travelers, the most ornate or historic place of worship does not necessarily equate to a spiritual experience.

In my Middle Eastern meanderings, I’ve always found the desert to be a spiritual place. It is a place that produces dreams, hope, and feelings of supreme humility in the face of overwhelming nature. No desert is prettier than the pink and red Wadi Ram of Jordan.

Trekking off the beaten path though, a lesser known, and more traditionally colored spot can be found in the western reaches of Egypt, in the desert surrounding the Oasis of Siwa.

At Siwa there is a great sand sea—with crests 20 to 30 meters tall—that blows across the desert plains. Cruising up and down its waves in a four wheeled drive vehicle is fun.

Drinking tea at sunset is picturesque. But the real attraction is after hours, in the darkness of night, when the stars shine, suspend time, and inspire belief in a higher power, whether that be God, science, or both.

Siwa is two buses and 11 or 12 hours from Cairo, depending upon how many times the bus overheats along the way.

The Journey

While some travel for the destination, others hit the road for the journey itself. Tiziano Terzani wrote a wistful, make you want to grab your backpack and go book called A Fortune Teller Told Me: Earthbound Travels in the Far East, that is really about appreciating the full process of traveling.

Terzani eschews flights and instead travels by train and by ship, making sure not to miss anything about the way there. But there are no India-like train trips in the Middle East.

And with neighborly relations between many of the region’s countries complicated at best, it isn’t easy to find a desert caravan styled journey that allows you to appreciate the path along the way.

Still, in the spirit of traveling to a place and knowing how you got there in every sense, there is a wonderful day trip along the Golden Horn in Istanbul.

The Golden Horn, in the heart of Istanbul, is where the Bosphorus meets the Sea of Marmara. Along the Old City’s docks, facing a minaret-studded landscape of Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Suleymaniye Mosque, vendors hawk knickknacks and snacks and commuters stream on to ferries that will take them home.

Hop a ferry to Anadolu Kavagi and sit on the deck. For an hour and a half, the ferry makes stops between Europe and Asia. The landscape changes between former crusader forts to shattered docks to the homes of the clearly well-off. Along the way, it is all Istanbul.

At the end of the line, hike to top of the hill and the site of the old Yoros Castle. There are stunning views of Istanbul to the west and the Black Sea to the east. Before returning to the Golden Horn, make sure to stop at one of the fresh fish restaurants along the wharf.

Community Connection!

Matador is representing in the Middle East.

Emily Hansen, is currentlyteaching English in Istanbul – “It’s my New York, but better,” she writes.

Matador member DWB is the guy to talk to about Syria, writing:

Forget everything you’ve ever read in the news about Syria. While Syria’s international standing goes up and down (more down than up recently), the people to meet and places to see here never cease to amaze and impress me.

Then there’s Jason Rezaian, who wrote one of the most popular articles published at Matador Trips:

7 Reasons to travel to Iran Now

Photo by Andris Bjornson

Malaysian Borneo is straight out of an explorer’s dream. It’s home to the tallest mountain in South East Asia, the largest underground cavern in the world, and mile after mile of wild rain forest.

If it’s adventure you’re after, bypass the glitzy dive resorts and golf courses in the northern province of Sabah and head south to the jungles of Sarawak for some trekking.

Sarawak trekking takes more than a little slogging through muddy, leech infested territory. As you remove your sock to flick off what seems like the thousandth bloodsucker to wriggle its way through the mesh of your boot, you may find yourself questioning your choice of destination.

Surrounding you, though, will be some of the most bio-diverse forest in the world: home to 15,000 species of flowering plants, 3,000 species of trees, and 221 species of terrestrial mammals.

At the end of the day, safe and dry in a jungle hut with a stomach full of rice and tasty jungle vegetables, you won’t find yourself regretting a trip to Sarawak.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

The Kelabit Highlands

Sarawak offers a lot of options for jungle trekking. From large cities on the coast, you can catch a ride in a longboat or 4×4 to a tribal longhouse in the interior. There, you’ll sample the local cuisine and have the opportunity to discuss trekking options with local guides.

Many of these easily accessible longhouses have started to see a lot of traffic. You may find that they cater well to tourists, but provide a less authentic experience.

The village of Bario, high in the Kelabit Highlands, offers a more remote option. The village is accessible only accessible by six seater Twin Otter, and flights operate early in the morning to beat the afternoon fog.

Watching the twin peaks of Bukit Batu Lawi pass even with your wingtips as you descend to Bario’s tiny grass airstrip isn’t something you’ll soon forget.

The friendly MASWings pilots keep the cockpit door open during the short flight from Miri. If you ask nicely they may make a detour to give you better views of the local mountains.

Flights to Bario from Miri are a reasonable 70 Ringgit (USD 22) or an even more reasonable RM 55 (USD 18) from Marudi.

It’s actually possible to trek to Bario all the way from Miri, but it’s an extremely strenuous three week trip through some very rugged jungle terrain. Check out this guy Jeff’s blog for some pointers if you think you’re up to the challenge.

Relaxing in Bario

Once in Bario, you may find the hardest thing to do is make yourself leave. The high plateau air is invigoratingly chilly, and the vibrant green of the surrounding agricultural land is almost surreal. It would be easy to pass a few lazy mornings sipping steaming tea and reading a book on the porch of one of the basic guesthouses scattered through town.

Expect to pay about RM 50 (USD 15) per person per night for accomodation and food.

Wandering around the peaceful village and making a few local friends is a great way to pass an afternoon. The standard Kelabit greeting translates as something like “Hello! Where are you coming from? Where are you going?”

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself answering the same questions several times an hour.

Kelabit hospitality is legendary, in no small part thanks to the tasty food they prepare. Meals consist of a mix of cultivated rice, wild game, and jungle vegetables.

Cultures across Asia claim to produce the best rice in the world, but in the Kelabit Highlands those claims aren’t far off the mark.

The tender, long grain Bario rice will give you a new appreciation for rice as a meal rather than a staple. Kelabits eat rice three meals a day, but with the endless methods of preparation you won’t find yourself bored anytime soon.

Be sure to try the Kelabit equivalent of an energy bar: sweet, cooked rice molded to the shape of a bar and tightly wrapped in a banana leaf.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

Trekking Destinations

When you’re ready to hit the trails and start exploring, Bario offers plenty of options and makes an excellent base for exploring the area. Consider making the three day trek from Bario to Ba’kelalan via the tiny, peaceful village of Pa’Lungan.

Those looking for a more strenuous option can tack on a side trip up Mt. Murud along the way.

Other options include a three day trek to dramatic Bukit Batu Lawi, whose rocky twin peaks were photogenic enough to attract a North Face advertising film crew a few years ago.

Ba’kelalan has the same highland agricultural atmosphere of Bario, but is slightly more connected to civilization. It sports both an airstrip and a rough logging road running all the way to the coast.

A seat in a souped up 4×4 headed to Lawas will cost you slightly more than a flight, but the five hour roller coaster ride on sketchy dirt roads is an adventure in itself.

Ba’kelalan is famous for having convinced apple trees to grow in the cool climate. If you visit in late March, you may be lucky enough to catch the annual apple festival.

Locally produced salt is a source of Ba’kelalan pride. At one of the village’s salt springs, you can watch the production process from start to finish.

Photo by Andris Bjornson

Logistics of Sarawak Trekking

Rain and mud make jungle trails hard to follow, and the difference between a game trail and a walking trail is often a matter of opinion.

Getting lost could be life-threatening. Unless you’ve spent a lot of time navigating similar terrain, don’t venture into the jungle without an experienced guide.

The going rate for guiding is somewhere around RM 60 (USD 20) per day plus tip. You won’t have any trouble finding a guide in Bario if you ask around, but consider getting in touch with Walter Paran or his brother Mado. Both live in Pa’Lungan and will take great care of you on the trail.

Kelabit woodsmen are true masters of their environment, and watching one in action is a fantastic learning experience. When not guiding tourists, many woodsmen prefer to travel through the jungle off-trail because they say they can move faster that way.

The parang or machete is the woodsman’s Swiss Army Knife. Throughout your hike, you’ll probably see your guide put it to more uses you can count; hacking clear overgrown trail one minute, and delicately peeling jungle tubers for you to taste the next.

You’ll want to pack light for a jungle trek. You’ll gain significant elevation no matter which way you head from Bario, and at least half of the hike to Ba’kelalan is uphill.

Bring iodine to purify water, water bottles, a first aid kit, rain gear, and a fleece. You’ll either stay with Kelabit families or in simple, open, jungle shelters along the way so you won’t need a tent.

A hammock or sleeping pad and light sleeping bag can make for much more comfortable nights. If possible, leave the bulk of your gear in a Miri airport locker or in Bario if trekking a loop route.

Leeches are disgusting, but harmless. (Just keep reminding yourself that unlike mosquitoes, leeches don’t carry disease). A bit of deet sprayed on your boots will help, but if you think you’ll avoid them completely you’re sorely mistaken. Flick leeches off sideways, as grabbing and pulling only makes them hold on tighter.

Note that the ancient footpath route to Ba’kelalan zig-zags briefly into Kalimantan Indonesia. You won’t need a visa if you’re just passing through on your trek, but you must carry your passport.

The tiny jungle border crossing isn’t a visa on arrival location. Don’t expect to cross into Indonesia and stay unless you planned ahead and already have a visa.

Other Borneo Activities

If you wrap up a Kelabit Higlands trek and find yourself with time to spare, Borneo offers plenty of other options for the adventurous:

Gunung Mulu National Park is home to Sarawak Chamber, the largest cave chamber in the world. The park is accessible by air from Miri, and has a modern tourist infrastructure of maps, lodging, and wooden walkways.

Experienced guides lead adventure caving trips into the park’s wild caves, including Sarawak Chamber itself. For the most technical spelunking, try the Clearwater Connection route.

You’ll spend 5-7 hours crawling through tight passages, descending fixed ropes, and wading waist deep through underground rivers to link two of the parks most impressive show caves.

In Sabah, you can hike up the highest mountain in South East Asia: Mt. Kinabalu. The traditional two day hike ends with a 4am alpine start to catch sunrise on the summit.

Those wanting more adrenaline should check out the newly completed highest via ferrata in the world. Bolts and iron cables keep you safe as you explore Kinabalu’s more exposed flanks.

Community Connection!

Matador travelers who can share stories of their time in Malaysia include islandhapa, who attended a tattoo convention in Borneo, and NomadicMatt, who included Sarawak on his list of 8 Ways To Get Off The SE Asian Tourist Trail.

We are passionate travelers. Join the Matador community today.

Photo by Patrick Lucas. Luang Nam Tha Valley.

First, either fly or take the overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, the heart of Northern Thailand.

Chiang Mai is the first stop on a well-trodden tourist trail that runs to Luang Prabang, south to Vientiane, and back to Bangkok. Thousands of travelers funnel through this route each year with hardly a glimpse out the window of their air-conditioned buses.

You are not just another backpacker. You are looking to experience something different, something that will push you beyond your comfort zone and provide a glimpse of the ‘other Lao’, a strange, exotic, and immeasurably beautiful part of the world that exists a mere hundred meters from the path so many travel.

Houay Xai

We must first head north, away from Chiang Mai to Houay Xai, a small town situated on the Lao side of the Mekong River across from Chiang Khong, Thailand. Houay Xai is just a small port town, a jumping off point for people looking for boats down river to Luang Prabang.

You see the river boats crammed with locals and tourists that will chug downriver at a painfully slow pace, and you turn away. You look to the mountains and hills to the north of the town and can feel something pulling you inland, inexplicable and unrelenting.

The Gibbon Experience

In Houay Xai you will find the offices for the Gibbon Experience, quite possibly the most unique and exhilarating wildlife experience in Southeast Asia.

Located in the Bokeo Nature preserve, a 123,000 ha area of protected forest in one of the most remote corners of Laos, this project is fully operated by the local Lammet and Hmong communities giving visitors the opportunity to understand their dynamic relationship with the forests.

Mobility is granted through the thick forest via 11 zip lines spread out across three ridges with tree houses in the canopy as accommodations. The project is quickly becoming one of the more popular in the country, so making reservations a few weeks in advance is recommended.

Bookings can be made through the Gibbon Experience website.

Water Falls near Ban Tanongpo. Patrick Lucas

Luang Nam Tha

A hard day of riding the bus through the forests of the Nam Ha Biodiversity Area on narrow dirt roads brings you to the small north western town of Luang Nam Tha.

Located in a broad valley on the Nam Tha River, and surrounded by tranquil rice fields and hills, Luang Nam Tha is one of the more scenic locations in northern Lao.

As a recipient of large amounts of funding from the United Nations Development program, Luang Nam Tha has developed into a major center for eco-tourism and is a significant destination for outdoor enthusiasts.

To many, however, the projects have begun to develop a somewhat “formulated” feel – superficial outings that focus on parading ethnic groups about in traditional garb while hawking cheap trinkets are quickly becoming the norm; experiences that provide little opportunity to gain any insights into the people’s lives.

Also, rapidly expanding rubber plantations are eroding the natural areas that once made the area so attractive. A quick browse among the tourist shops along the mainstreet, all sporting advertisements for identical sounding “tribal hill treks” says it all and you find yourself headed out of town on the first bus down the highway to Oudomxay Province.

Oudomxay

Arriving in Oudomxay town can be a bit of a shock. A cursory glance will give the strong impression that this is not a tourist destination. Oudomxay is little more than a highway truck stop with a single strip of old buildings on either side of the highway covered in dust from recent construction and situated in a deforested valley.

Over the last few years, with assistance from a number of international non-governmental organizations, tourism opportunities have been slowly developing in Oudomxay.

Though lacking in the glamor and glitz of more established projects in Luang Nam Tha or Luang Phabang provinces, the tourism opportunities in Oudomxay are new enough to ensure a unique and genuine experience for intrepid travelers.

The most interesting option is an overnight hike to Khmu villages in the highlands of the La District. These communities represent the ‘other Lao’, the part of the country those of us who have lived and worked in the country refer to as the ‘working Lao’, the part that hasn’t been overtaken or transformed by monolithic tourism operations.

The working Lao is a place that has remained largely unchanged in the last 150 years. The best part about these communities is that visitors are still viewed and accepted as guests, not just as travelers, and certainly not as tourists.

On the road Luang Nam Tha. Photo by Patrick Lucas

Into The Heart Of Lao

The trip starts in the early morning at the offices of the Tourism Authority. (Backpacks and large bags can be safely stored in a locked room in the office).

You are met by a local Khmu guide in a truck and then taken 30km on the highway to the north into the La District, one of the poorest areas in the province.

From there the truck gets off the main highway and drives 12km down a dirt and mud road that barely clings to the side of hills overlooking extensive rice paddies.

Eventually the truck comes to a stop at an indiscriminate bend in the road, and you can’t help but wonder why the guide has chosen this spot to park the vehicle. The guide shows you the trail head hidden at the roadside, just a small, single track running into the forest.

For more than two hours you hike through the jungle, crisscrossing a small stream that leads to the village, cut through a narrow, steep valley with thick untouched patches of old growth subtropical rainforest obscuring the sun overhead. This path is the only access to the village, and you meet school children who nimbly pass you by on their way home from another week at school.

You arrive at the village site in a burst of sunshine and green as you step out from the forest and see the thatched and bamboo huts settled on a small hill at the center of the valley.

Town of Oudomxay, Lao. Photo by Patrick Lucas

Idyllic and serene, are words that seem wholly inadequate to you as you walk the last few hundred metres into the village centre, seeing the sunlight slide down the greenery of the surrounding hills and settle around the community in a light golden haze.

The village is largely empty at this time as the residents are all still out working in the fields further up the valley. You are taken to the home of the Phorban (village father) and invited to sit in the shade under the house to wait, marveling in wonder at the magical place.

That night, after the villagers have returned from the fields, and everyone, including yourself, has taken their daily bath in the local stream, you share a meal with the Phorban and his family.

The food is simple, boiled chicken in a broth with vegetables taken from the forest, and a side of sticky rice all shared from a mat placed on the floor.

Through your guide, the Phorban tells you the story of his village, their daily efforts to eke a living from the surrounding hills and fields.

The floor, made from a woven matt of bamboo, dips and shakes with every movement, the vibrations tingling up your spine to the base of your neck, giving you the sensation that every person in the room is interconnected, inseparable.

When the women across the room rock back and forth screaming with laughter, or when the men holler and bellow, encouraging a friend to drink from the communal jar of rice whiskey, you imagine that you can feel their emotions, their joys, hopes and dreams for the future, pulsating through the strips of bamboo bark like notes on vibrating piano strings, tickling your feet, extolling you to release yourself and join them in this special moment of community.

You do, and in that moment you realize that, when you leave, a small piece of your heart will remain in this beautiful valley with these beautiful people.

Buddhist Statues. Photo by Patrick Lucas

Phongsali

After emerging from the forests you have a decision to make. You can return to Oudomxay and catch the bus to Luang Phabang, or you can continue your divergence from the beaten path and head to Phongsali province, a 31/2 hour bus ride to the north.

The town of Phongsali is no more pretty or entertaining than Oudomxay was, but that is not the point in visiting this area.

After a nights rest in one of the towns simple hotels, catch a sawngthiew (a truck with a cover and benches in the back for transporting large groups of people) to the town of Hat Sa, about an hours ride away. From here, numerous boats make daily trips down the Nam Ou River to Muang Ngoi Neau and a seat will cost $10.

(If pressed for time, Muang Khua is a good halfway point for catching boats on the Nam Ou between Oudomxay and Phongsali.) .

The ride is long, taking between 7 and 10 hours, and cramped, but this is among the most beautiful stretches of river in Lao, and you are almost guaranteed to be the only foreigner on board.

Ban Tanongpo Oudomxay, Lao. Photo by Patrick Lucas

Muang Ngoi Neua

You will be thrilled and relieved to see this small village on the banks of the Nam Ou appear from around a bend. Muang Ngoi Neua, located one hour by boat north from Nong Khiew, is quickly growing in popularity among tourists, but it has managed to maintain its charming atmosphere none the less.

With mountains towering on each side, and a number of decent accommodations and restaurants, the village makes for a wonderful place to relax and recuperate after a long boat ride.

Editor’s Note: Check out Justin Landrum’s Guide to Muang Ngoi Neua.

Nong Khiew

Nong Khiew is a bustling town straddling the Nam Ou River and situated around the Highway 1 bridge. There are a number of hotels that have huts overlooking the river ranging from simple bamboo to upscale rooms charging as much as $18 US per night.

Western style food is available – a definite relief after so many meals of sticky rice and meagre soups of vegetables and broth. Charter boats to Luang Prabang cost about $100, or there are daily ferries that run downriver to Luang Prabang for $10.00 a seat.

It’s another seven hour boatride, though the views are still quite spectacular. For those in a hurry, Sawngthiews can be hired to take you into Luang Prabang within a few hours.

Luang Prabang

End of the line! A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Luang Prabang is a beautiful city replete with boulevards and French colonial architecture. Numerous restaurants and hotels offer respite from your many days in the forest.

Daily flights are available back to Bangkok.

Community Connection!

Check out Matador contributor Justin Landrum’s guide to Muang Ngoi Neua, maybe the chillest backpacker hideout in all of SE Asia.

Nomadic Matt recommends Southern Laos in his excellent list of 8 ways to get off the SE Asian tourist trail. Your faithful editor Tim Patterson fell in love with Lusty Luang Prabang.

For detailed info on one of the coolest towns in southern Lao, read Hal Amen’s guide to Champasak.

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

A chapel and a granary (called an horreo) overlooking surf in western Asturias. Photo by Beebe Bahrami

Asturias is not like other parts of Spain.

Asturias, the province on the northwestern coast of Spain just east of Galicia and west of Cantabria, is a narrow strip of mountains and coast line, creating steep cliff drops to the Atlantic Ocean.

The whole coast is a series of cliffs giving way to scallop-shaped sand or pebble beaches.

A province of misty green mountains, blue waters, bagpipes, prehistoric caves, Bronze Age dolmens, Iron Age Celtic settlements, and pre-Romanesque churches, Asturias is unlike other parts of Spain.

Amidst this ancient smorgasbord, there are dozens of surf spots, some famous but most only known by the locals.

To catch the best waves, you need to travel here in the fall, winter, and spring, which happen to fall in the cheaper off-peak season. There are enough surf spots in Asturias that you can find your own and avoid the localism at the more famous places, like Rodiles and Tapia de Casariego.

Asturians are both sophisticated and earthy people. It is a land of human-scale cities and many, many rural villages set in rolling green hills with views of the big blue Atlantic.

The Picos de Europa, one of Europe’s best preserved natural mountainous areas, sits as a backdrop. City, village, coastline, and mountain are all interconnected by new roads and old footpaths.

It’s the footpaths that are fascinating. At first you may not even see them. I didn’t until I asked for directions many times from locals and kept getting these organic responses with shortcuts through fields and passages along narrow worn paths.

That was when I realized the world of paved roads was secondary to locals. For a surfer, what these footpaths indicate is that the more challenging access to beaches pretty much clears out rabble rousers who might crowd the waters if access were easier.

The true soul surfer can find his or her sweet spot pretty much unmolested.

Searching for Surf near Llanes. Beebe

How

Part of the fun of surfing in Asturias is discovering the foot paths that lead to little-known surf spots. I’ve been exploring surf in Asturias for over ten years and have found the best ones through patient exploration into wonderfully wild terrain.

I first go out for exploratory walks along footpaths, asking locals for their expertise as I go. Sometimes I’ll fall into a path serendipitously. And sometimes paths are a dead end at a cliff drop, a mislead forged by the ubiquitous free range goats who also use the paths to get to their own slice of nirvana.

Over the years of trekking and surf hunting in Asturias, through trial and error, I’ve also unearthed three indispensable books that help me unearth the wild reality of Asturias, her footpaths and her surf spots. (They are noted below.)

Having located your access route, checked the surf, and talked to the locals for their invaluable local knowledge, you can fall into a joyous rhythm of coming and going from the surf to the village where you’re staying and to the local cafes and restaurants.

Food & Drink

The Spanish are fierce believers in the basic human right to eat and drink well. They are gregarious and generous people and their villages often have no less than four bars and cafes, even in a population of 300 or less.

The offering gets bigger and headier the bigger the town. In all contexts, the food is always locally procured, fresh, delicious, and affordable. You save a lot of money but get the same quality by ordering the fixed price menus (menus del dia), which are three courses (a starter, an entrée, and dessert), often for around 10-12 euros, including wine and bread.

Asturias is in apple country and produces hard cider, called sidra, a crisp, dry, frothy, apple and sun infused elixir. And because wine country is not far away, including the famous Rioja wine country, really good wine is madly affordable.

Villages across the country, including in Asturias, have weekly open air markets, a good time to see what the locals produce as well as purchase fresh, often organic provisions for eating in and picnicking out.

Playa de San Martin

One of my favorite spots is Playa de San Martin.

Just west of the fishing town of Llanes in eastern Asturias, San Martin can be reached only via footpaths from the village of Celorio.

San Martin is set amidst a cliff that opens to an expansive sandy beach with giant stone formations carved by the ocean. It is a beach break that picks up the swell well and is best at low tide. Winds come in from the south, southeast, and sometimes northeast. Waves are rapid and ridable with variable peaks.

Localism is nearly nonexistent even though this is a beloved spot among surfers from Llanes. If you go, act like a good guest so that localism will remain low here. (The fact holds that most localism in northern Spain emerges from arrogant behavior from visitors and as such incites a local counter-response…)

After a session in the water and climbing up the cliff path that got you there, head back to Celorio’s village beach and enjoy frothy beers and local tapas at the beachside café.

Recommended Tapas

Calamares, shrimp sautéed in garlic (gambas al ajillo), chorizo in cider (chorizo a la sidra), and when in season, little fried green peppers with sea salt (pimientos de Padrón).

Green Note

Most Asturians are environmentalists who love their wild places. Villages and towns have clusters of bins that are for recycling and for trash. Use them.

Respect the wild and human places alike. Asturians are very warm people and if you act with warmth and respect, you will find yourself quickly adopted and will find the life so serene and complete that you’ll be hard pressed to leave.

Camping Sites and Surf Shops

Called “Campings” these sites are sprinkled throughout Asturias. The Guía del Surf listed below tells you when a surf spot is near a camping site. It also lists surf shops and rentals near different spots.

Fishing town, Llanes, eastern Asturias. Beebe

Renting a Rural House

Better than camping, I think, is renting a rural apartment or farmhouse, which in the off-season can be remarkably cheap and much drier and warmer than camping: Asturias is famous for rain in all seasons.

Once you settle on the part of Asturias’ coastline you want to explore (I recommend the area around Ribadesella and Llanes), you can explore the local rentals via http://en.toprural.com: select Asturias and go in more locally from there.

These sites list rural rental properties by type and price and number of occupants. Each listing shows what it is and tells you how the owner wants to do business. Some owners want an advance deposit while others trust you’ll show up and pay on arrival (so it’s a good idea to do so!). These places often break down to 35-80 euros a day for two to four people.

Top Rural also lists albergues, which are dormitory-style accommodations in rural areas as well as towns. Costing around 8-20 euros a night, these can be bargains for a dry bunk and a great way to meet people.

One-star hotels, hostels, and pensiones can also be bargains in the off-season. Most family run, clean, and simple hostels run from 30-55 euros a night for a double. Spanish standards for cleanliness are pretty high so it is a great rarity to find a cheap place that looks it.

Local Buses and Trains

The main local bus company is ALSA and their buses go pretty much everywhere in Asturias. If you need to get to a little village near the bus route, just tell the driver and he’ll pull over at the nearest stop to your destination.

The website for ASLA only shows timetables for long trips. The more local ones are best discovered at the town bus stations or at village bus stops. www.alsa.es.

FEVE, the regional train, is a delightful choochoo with room at one end or the other of its two linked cars for boards and bikes. It runs along the coast from Bilbao in the east to Ferrol in the west. You can find the timetables and destinations at their website. www.feve.es/html.

Both ALSA and FEVE run from Asturias’ main cities (Gijón, Oviedo, and Avilés) to the countryside and coast.

Those Three Precious Books for Trekking and Surfing in Asturias:

1. Aeroguía del Litoral Cantabria y Asturias, published by Editorial Planeta, 1999. It now comes in a cheap pocket size version (bolsillo) and is a terrific photographic guide of aerial shots of the entire coastline. It helps locate beaches, their contours and breaks, and if you look closely, the footpaths meandering along the coast. It costs around 11.50 euros.

2. Guía del Surf en España by José Pellón.

This is a great resource for what beaches are good for surfing, where the camping sites and surf shops are, and what each surf spot’s conditions are. Online it goes for anywhere between 18.50 to 24.50 euros.

3. Guía de las Playas de Asturias by Javier Chao Arana.

This little book is packed with terrific detailed information on each of the hundreds of beaches in Asturias.

It breaks it down to a page per beach, going over each place’s physical characteristics, water quality, sports activities, access, camping grounds, and food establishments. It costs around 12 euros.

Okay, so they’re all in Spanish. But surf and water talk is practically an international language and English speakers with a little Spanish dictionary will get lots of information out of these.

The information in these books is invaluable regarding trekking and surfing the local terrain. Some good online sources for these books are: www.casadelibro.com; www.librerianautica.com; and www.agapea.com.

You can also find them on the ground, in bookstores (librerias) and surf shops in Asturias.

On a remote footpath in eastern Asturias, looking at the Picos de Europa. Photo by Beebe

Two Parting Tips

The tide is dramatic in Asturias so be prepared for dramatic water level changes. In some places, the beach entrance will be completely under water and altered at high tide. Stay aware of the tides.

If you really want to surf Rodiles and Tapia de Casariego, these tips still apply. But be forewarned, if you are going to paddle out when that river mouth left at Rodiles is tubing and the locals are there, you better be damn good and not waste their time when it’s your turn.

Know the rules of the water and uphold them for yourself even if others don’t. Be impeccable. And if you’re not good enough to be out there, get out of the way and surf the smaller but fun stuff peeling down the beach (that’s where you’ll find me).

Community Connection!

Besides Beebe, Matador surfers now living in Spain include Doug, who prefers dirt to pavement and is based in Barcelona, and the immortal Punchy, a native of Hawaii who currently bunks in Madrid. Akmonki wrote some sweet blogs about her recent bike trip along the Spanish coast, including You Never Know What You’re Capable Of Until You’ve Tried It.

For more info. on Spain, check out these articles from the Matador network:

Pueblo Ingles: Possibly the Best Volunteer Opportunity in Spain

Where in SPAIN Should I Study Abroad?

Top 5 Festivals In Spain

For other knowledgeable and detailed surf guides to places reminiscent of The Endless Summer, check out Matador’s surf guides:

Mar del Plata, Argentina

Byron’s Bay, Australia

Vietnam

Matador is blossoming. Join the community today.

Photo by Hal Amen

Zipping down from Luang Prabang?

Cruising up from Phnom Penh? Shooting over from BKK? Make sure to cool your jets for a few days in the southern Lao town of Champasak.

Orientation

Champasak lies 25 miles downstream from the southern hub of Pakse. It’s on the shore opposite the highway, accessible by boat from the Ban Muang docks.

Nearly the entire town is laid out along a single road that parallels the Mekong River. In the center, a traffic circle (with no traffic to speak of) rings a decaying stone fountain that hints of this town’s distinctive past.

Faded Grandeur

photo by Hal Amen

In Champasak you’ll find the same “go with the river’s flow” mentality celebrated by backpackers further north at Muang Ngoi Neua and further south on the Four Thousand Islands. But there’s more to Champasak than banana milkshakes and hammock naps.

Before the French consolidated the region and added that pesky “s” to the name, there were three separate Lao kingdoms. One of them just so happened to be the Kingdom of Champasak, seated in the town that still bears its name.

It may be hard to believe this lazy village once hosted royalty. But while it lacks anything approximating Pakse’s Champasak Palace Hotel, there are faded reminders of greatness to explore.

Some of Champasak’s grandeur remains in the colonial buildings, stained by the weight of time and humidity, that line the main road. Enjoy the atmosphere conjured by these shadows from the past as you relish a slow meal of laap, sticky rice, and Beer Lao at one of the many delightfully mellow riverside restaurants.

The Main Attraction

Champasak boasts something else unique in southern Laos: a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins of Wat Phu Champasak straddle the mountains and the Mekong plain 7 miles south and west of town on the main road.

If you’re planning a visit to Angkor Wat later in your trip, Wat Phu is the perfect prelude for what you’ll see there. Travelers who have already been to Angkor will appreciate the elevated location of these ruins. Wat Phu affords impressive views, something you don’t often find at Angkor.

This temple complex served as the spiritual nexus of an ancient culture as early as 2,000 years ago.

Centuries later, Champasak became part of the vast Khmer empire, and you’re sure to note the similarities between the sculptures and carvings here and those at Cambodia’s world-renowned site. If you look closely, you can see remnants of the pilgrimage route that once connected the two.

Today, Wat Phu invites you to relive the experience of a devotee as you ascend the stone staircases scented with sweet frangipani blossoms that connect the site’s multiple levels.

Along the way, you’ll pass statues decorated in saffron robes and fresh flowers, perhaps with a group of monks in attendance.

From the top level, it’s possible to look back over the entire complex, further out across the colorful plain, and eventually to the Mekong shimmering in the distance.

Each year, the ruins are overrun with local revelers during the Bun Wat Phu Champasak. Sporting events, Buddhist ceremonies, and live music abound at this popular festival.

If your visit happens to coincide (festival dates are determined by the lunar calendar and usually fall in February), book your Champasak accommodation well in advance. At other times of the year you’re likely to have the place to yourself.

Other Sights and Activities

photo by Hal Amen

While it’s a safe bet any visitors to Champasak have come for Wat Phu, other nearby sights reward travelers who choose to linger. For an active temple, check out Wat Nyutthitham one block west of the main drag.

There’s another wat north of the circle where the ferry docks, and yet another can be found about 5 miles to the south, past where the road curves toward Wat Phu.

More Khmer ruins are on display at Um Muang, downstream a piece on the opposite bank. To get there, hire a boat from Champasak for around $10 round-trip. Floating lazily along the Mekong is half the fun.

The flat dirt roads around Champasak are great to explore on your own. Most guesthouses rent out bicycles, and some have motorbikes.

Follow any path and you’re sure to come upon conical-hatted farmers at work in green fields, laughing Lao children, and maybe a water buffalo cooling off in a mud puddle.

Arriving and Departing

Champasak, located just off well-traveled Highway 13, is a breeze to reach. Buses from points north and south travel this road and will probably drop you at Ban Lak 30, a couple miles east of the Ban Muang docks. You shouldn’t have any trouble arranging local transport to cover this distance.

Unless you specify otherwise, your boatman will ferry you a mile or so north of Champasak’s traffic circle. The standard crossing runs less than 10,000 kip ($1).

Alas, the heyday of boat travel in southern Laos is over, and the slow boat connecting Pakse to the Si Phan Don island of Don Khong seems to have been discontinued. Private boats can still be chartered (expensively) in Pakse for the journey to Champasak if you so desire.

Circle of Asia’s “Vat Phou Cruise” package is a roundtrip between Pakse and the Cambodian border, with onboard accommodation.

From Thailand, use the border crossing east of Ubon Ratchathani. Despite its continuing obscurity, there’s also a crossing with Cambodia at Voen Kham. Embassy employees, guidebooks, and tour operators alike may tell you it’s not possible to purchase a visa upon exit/entry, but this author had no trouble doing so.

Your best bet is to arrange transport through a guesthouse on your way down, or in Stung Treng, Cambodia, if coming the other way. As always, check with passing travelers for the latest updates.

Guesthouses and Restaurants

photo by Hal Amen

Champasak guesthouses offer a variety of accommodations, from the standard $3 fan bungalow to larger, indoor rooms with A/C, private bath, and hot water for up to $15. Try to find one with a nice seating area facing the river, where you can string a hammock and contemplate the Mekong’s swift current.

In addition, most of the guesthouses have attached restaurants. The one associated with A Nou Xa Guesthouse, north of the fountain circle, serves carefully prepared and deliciously authentic Lao cuisine, with an atmosphere that can’t be beat.

Cash and the Net

There are no banks between Pakse and Stung Treng, so remember to conduct any necessary financial business before striking out. U.S. dollars are sometimes accepted, Thai baht less so—it pays to stock up on kip.

A couple houses (one just south of the circle) advertise Internet connections, but this is nothing more than a local’s personal computer. Rates are twice what they are in Pakse.

Fewer services means more time for relaxation. Enjoy it while you can!

Community Connection!

Many Matador members have a soft spot for Laos. Check out Matador contributor Justin Landrum’s guide to Muang Ngoi Neua, maybe the chillest backpacker hideout in all of SE Asia.

TravelFish, an online resource dedicated to SE Asia travel, has an excellent Champasak travel guide.

Nomadic Matt recommends Southern Laos in his excellent list of 8 ways to get off the SE Asian tourist trail. Your faithful editor Tim Patterson fell in love with Lusty Luang Prabang. Although his profile is a little sparse, Robb Cadwell knows more about Laos than just about any Westerner.

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Photo by Matthew Kepnes

In Southeast Asia, all roads lead to Bangkok, and for most backpackers, Bangkok means Khao San Road. Khao San is the first stop on the Southeast Asian tourist trail, which loops through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia.

You could follow the tourist trail to Chang Mai, float down the river to Luang Prabang, cross over the mountains to Vietnam, dip into Cambodia, and finally head back to Bangkok, hitting all the major tourist stops along the way.

Or maybe you could follow the trail south to Krabi or Ko Phi Phi, rock out under the Full Moon on Ko Phan Ngan and go diving in Ko Tao. Maybe you’ll even drop into Malaysia. Maybe not.

But why stick to the major sights? Sure, places like Angkor Wat and Luang Prabang are famous for a reason, but unique and memorable experiences await if you take the initiative to explore a bit further than the average backpacker.

Here are 8 fresh ideas for how to get off the Southeast Asian tourist trail.

Bike the Mekong River.

Many tour operators offer cycling trips through the Mekong delta. This is a more adventurous way to see the area than the typical bus/boat package tour option.

photo by Matthew Kepnes

Bike tours take you off the main roads and along dirt tracks in the rice paddies. You feel less like a tourist being shuttled from attraction to attraction, and more like a traveler, exploring at your own pace.

I had a great experience with Delta Tours. But if you are an experienced biker, why not do it yourself?

Editor’s Note: Check out Hal Amen’s excellent guide to cycling Highway 1 in Vietnam.

Visit a National Park in Vietnam.

Most people travel to Vietnam and do the typical nature tours of Halong Bay, Sapa, and the Mekong Delta.

But Vietnam has a plethora of National Parks that allow each traveler to see what I think is the best part of Vietnam – its natural beauty. Most of the parks go unvisited by tourists, but offer rewarding scenery, excellent trails, the chance to spot rare creatures and a little bit of solitude from the masses.

Editor’s Note: Matador’s Vietnam expert knows a great deal about the National Parks of Vietnam, especially in the North.

Check out the temples in Lopburi, Thailand.

Those seeking historical ruins in Thailand tend to focus on the two main sights: Ayuthaya and Sukkothai. While Lobpuri doesn’t compare to these places in terms of grandeur, there are some really nice temples here that make the city worth a visit.

Most people come as a day tour from Bangkok but those who stay longer can experience a typical, rural Thai town. Enjoy the great night market by the train station, watch the school children socialize in the town center, and meander through the town and immerse yourself in small town Thai life.

Watch out for the hyperactive troop of monkeys that roam the city. They are known to grab things right from your hand!

Chill out in Kep, Cambodia.

photo by Ross Borden

This quiet French colonial town is a nice alternative to Sihanoukville, the fast-paced, party capital of Cambodia’s beach scene.

Kep’s beaches are peaceful and you won’t find as many people here. You can get to Kep by detouring to Kampot instead of going straight to Sihanoukville from Phnom Penh.

Be sure to make the trip out to Koh Tonsay, or Rabbit Island, where there are basic bungalows and locals serve up fresh seafood dishes like shrimp or crab with local cracked pepper sauce.

Editor’s Note: I love Kep. The best place to stay is Le Bout de Monde.

Explore the Northeast of Thailand.

Sometimes referred to as Isaan, this area is mostly rice paddies and dusty towns. The Northeast is the poorest region of Thailand and also the least touristed.

Most people don’t speak English here and there are few major attractions, but the area holds a friendly, laid-back charm and gives you a unique view of rural Thai life. The roads are unpaved, the towns have few tourist services, and you certainly won’t find any posh hotels, but you will experience Thai life at the local Thai price. For those looking for the real Thailand, you’ll find it in Isaan.

Editor’s Note: Ryan Libre has spent a lot of time in Isaan – check out his recent podcast at the travelers notebook.

Escape to a Random Thai Island.

photo by Ross Borden

Ko Phi Phi, Samui, Phuket, Ko Chang, Ko Tao…you’ve heard the names. They are all amazing islands, but also some of the busiest in Thailand. Secluded beach life is hard to come by on these developed islands.

If you really want peace and quiet, find a random island. Thailand has hundreds of islands, and although most have some form of tourism infrastructure, if you make the effort to catch one extra ferry or visit a place that isn’t in the guidebook, you just might find your paradise.

For example, Ko Chang is surrounded by a large chain of islands, and although most are private and used for dive trips, there are many that most people never even think to visit.

Down south near Malaysia there are many undeveloped islands, too. Thai beach paradise is out there, it just takes a little effort to find it.

Looking for an quiet island? Ask Voralak, a Matador contributor who lives in Bangkok and just published a Backpacker’s Secret Guide to the island of Trang, Thailand.

Meander through Southern Laos.

Most people tend to skirt through Laos, hitting the major destinations before crossing into Vietnam or looping back to Thailand.

The typical backpacker sees Vien Vieng, Vientiane and Luang Prabang – all of which are heavily touristed. There isn’t much to do in Laos and the road is pretty rough, so most people skip over the really exciting part of the country – the south.

Don’t miss a chance to check out this area, especially the amazing Bay of Islands, a large expanse of the Mekong River with over 4,000 islands to explore.

Who knows, maybe you will see the famous pink dolphin before it goes extinct!

Editor’s Note: Check out this Backpacker’s Secret Guide to Champasak, a chill temple town in southern Laos. Can’t quite make it to the south? Go to the organic farm outside Vien Vieng!

Seek Adventure in Sarawak, Malaysia.

Sarawak is rugged Malaysia. Most people follow the Southeast Asian tourist trail from Thailand to mainland Malaysia and on to Singapore. Some make the effort to cross over to Sarawak, but the mountainous region still feels remote.

If the Malaysian mainland is an interstate expressway, Sarawak is a small side highway. Those who take the initiative to explore Sarawak will find deep jungles and unexplored mountains. Want to channel your inner Joseph Conrad? Sarawak is the place.

Editor’s Note: Check out islandhapa’s awesome blog about participating in a tattoo convention in Sarawak (which is on the island of Borneo, by the way).

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are backpacking in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

Justin88 is traveling in South East Asia until he runs out of money, currently bound for Malaysia. Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

For up to date travel guides and guesthouse reviews, be sure to check out TravelFish, our favorite resource for trip planning in Southeast Asia.

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Photo by Horizon

A lot of people laugh when I suggest they consider Iran as the destination for their next holiday. Many think I’m joking, or just plain crazy, but I tell them that I’m totally serious.

The few people who have made the journey to Iran don’t laugh – they rank it among their favorite countries in the world to visit.

After 10 trips to Iran during the past few years, there are clearly many things about this most misunderstood of countries that keep calling me back. If you are looking to get off the well-trodden trail, I say head for Iran.

Here’s why:

1. The People

photo by Horizon

Iranians have a centuries old reputation for being a very hospitable people, especially when it comes to foreign guests. This dates back to a time when nomadic people roamed the Middle East and Central Asia.

The hospitality tradition has only intensified in recent years, and with so few Western travelers coming to Iran these days, many who do go are overwhelmed by the warm welcome.

For citizens of the United States who are wary of our government’s relationship with Iran, I can say that Iranians have a more favorable view of Americans than ANY of the other twenty nations I’ve visited since 9/11.

2. Amazing History

The Persian civilization is one of the oldest civilizations on earth and there are reminders of that great history scattered all over the country.

Whether it’s archaic and abandoned ruins dotting the sides of highways, or the ubiquitous call to prayer, visitors will experience a very ancient land with a vibrant and vital society.

UNESCO has granted World Heritage status to several locales in Iran, including the city of Esfhan, which many refer to as a “Middle Eastern Florence,” and the ruins of Persepolis, where Alexander the Great defeated the Persians in 334 BC.

3. Nature

photo by Horizon

Iran is a very large country and is home to some of the most varied landscapes in the world. For adventure travelers, all that separates you from skiing and scuba diving on the same weekend is an hour-long flight.

Iran boasts vast desert and forest areas. Several endangered animals roam Iran, including the Asiatic cheetah, and the country is one of the biggest fruit growers in the region.

4. Getting Around is Easy

With an airport in every decent sized city in Iran, and government subsidized airfare, getting around Iran is easy. Extensive railroad and bus routes are also available, making all parts of Iran truly accessible to travelers.

5. Iran is affordable

Inflation in Iran is soaring, but your dollar will still get you much further there than in most other top destinations. For the trip of a lifetime, it’s a bargain.

6. Untouched

photo by Horizon

There are so few tourists traveling to Iran that it could feel like a lonely place if not for the Iranians’ warmth and their inviting nature. This characteristic makes it possible to truly connect with the people of Iran and their history.

7. Breaking Stereotypes

By visiting Iran, you are making two statements: “I am my own person,” and “I will inform myself about the world.”

Iran has been demonized for decades, but nearly all people who travel there come home with their stereotypes shattered, replaced by fond memories of gracious hosts and unforgettable landscapes.

Community Connection!

The gorgeous photos that accompany this piece were taken by Horizon, a Matador member from Abadan Iran.

Photo by Hal Amen

There’s no Southeast Asian road more iconic than Vietnam’s National Highway 1. Running the length of the narrow, coastal country, it connects the major cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh. After decades of conflict that threatened to tear them apart, the Vietnamese now see the highway as a symbol of national unity.

Cycling Highway 1 unlocks experiences most travelers miss. You’ll discover rural hamlets far removed from the modern world, and famous guidebook sights will seem all the sweeter when earned through your own pedal power.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

No cycling test required—this adventure is open to people of all abilities.

Supported

photo by Hal Amen

For those seeking a structured, less-demanding trip, many agencies conduct vehicle-supported group rides. These typically involve a mix of cycling and van transport. Some examples include VeloAsia, which offers a couple set tours as well as a customized route option, and the 17-day Saigon to Hanoi expedition run by SpiceRoads.

Be sure to research your tour company thoroughly, paying particular attention to itineraries and testimonials. Prices, distances, and accommodation all vary, and no traveler wants to get locked into a situation that fails to live up to expectations.

On Your Own

Of course, many set their wheels to the tarmac without signing onto a supported tour. Cycling independently gives you complete control over where you go and how fast you travel.

Most visitors fly into Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. Starting off in the big city can be intimidating (and a bit dangerous), so busing it a few dozen miles up the road doesn’t hurt. Alternatively, domestic flights will quickly shuttle you to the middle of the country.

Cycling the entire highway is alluring, but time constraints mean you’ll likely opt for a shorter route. The scenic southern half is more popular, passing many points of interest. Spanning roughly 700 miles, it can be done in two weeks, though stretching it to three is recommended.

It’s also possible to skip segments by hopping a bus or train. A small fee will be levied for the bike, but the cost is negligible when time is of the essence.

Basic Necessities

Services and supplies are plentiful along Highway 1. It’s always advisable to carry lots of water and some spare calories, but even the smallest of villages will have a vendor who can restock you.

Accommodation (tourist accommodation, that is) isn’t as frequent. In the south, there are some 70+ mile stretches between major centers, with longer ones in the north. Once you hit your stride, you shouldn’t have trouble knocking out these distances—just know your limits.

New bypasses and extensions are being added to Highway 1 all the time, which can either save you time or get you lost. Make sure to take along an updated map. Great Journeys sells some, or you can