Photo: pviojo

I’m floating in a muddy spring called Baños Morales while looking at the walls of Cajón del Maipo and talking to Jorge about Lil Wayne. Jorge is around 12. He wants to know who are the best “cantantes of hip hop.”

For some reason none of this seems improbable in South America.

“What’s this song saying?” He has a little mp3 player with built-in speaker.

He plays the first 5 seconds of that commercial hip hop track that goes “I see you winding and grinding up on the floor. . .”

He hits pause.

“Te veo bailando,” I say. He starts laughing. Then gets serious and presses play again.

Cajón del Maipo is less than 2 hours from downtown Santiago. My friend Gustavo, Lau, Layla, and I rented a car and headed up here yesterday.

If we’d had more time, we would’ve taken the bus [from estación de Metro Bellavista la Florida (Línea 5) -- take the Metrobus 72 towards Plaza de Armas de San José de Maipo] and camped somewhere.

But as it was, renting a car for three days in Chile wasn’t that expensive (about $120 US), especially for a legitimate ’sedan’, the minimal sized vehicle I’d advise for driving caminos de ripio in the Andes.

The road follows the Rio Maipo upstream passing several small villages, each with little restaurants, lodging, horseback riding, and some incredibly cheap and good local fruit preserves, bread, nuts, olives, honey. You don’t really need to waste time buying food in Santiago on your way up here.

Basically, you just follow the G-25 the whole way along the river, although to explore the numerous side roads you should download and print out this map.

Activities

Photo: mabahamo

paddle

The whole time I was passing by the river I was wishing I had a kayak with me. The commercially rafted section of the Maipo is a S. American classic. You can set up trips via Chile Rafting.

There were some really gnarly looking creek runs flowing into the Maipo and steep sections in the headwaters for expert boaters. A lot of what I saw reminded me of Clear Creek in Colorado, only much bigger.

snow

It was out of season when we went, but the Centro de Ski Lagunillas looked like it had amazing potential. Check the prices too, it’s super cheap to ski in Chile.

backcountry

I jealously watched a van drop off a bunch of dudes with mountaineering gear in Baños Morales. From here you can access various climbing and mountaineering routes that go off in all directions as far as you can see.

It’s hard to believe this isn’t a national park, but simply a small chunk of Andean cordillera that you’re looking at right from downtown Santiago.

***

Photo: Naturaleza

Later, after getting out of the springs, Jorge and I stand looking at the river. It’s a heinous-looking and at the same time very runnable stretch of whitewater.

“You think anyone will ever run that in a kayak?” I ask him.

Jorge looks at the flow. “No.”

“Never?”

“Maybe someday.”

Community Connection

Make sure not to miss Take Me to the River: 8 Simple Steps for Getting into Whitewater Paddling.

Photo: Chris Van den Broeck

Many people only know South Korea for what it’s not. What little awareness there is usually only extends to Seoul, the country’s high-tech capital.

A shame, because this little peninsula has some gorgeous sights if you know where to look — especially once you travel beyond the mega-tropolis that covers the northwest. For example…

Busan

After months of living in what can feel like a mono-cultural Seoul, one of my happiest moments was on a weekend trip to Busan. I strolled through a carved Chinese gate to a former U.S. military hangout known as “Texas Town” for some authentic Russian pierogies.

Melting pot, I’d missed you so.

Photo: Ianz

Busan may be big, but it’s tough to feel stifled in “the San Francisco of South Korea.” Its plum location on the Sea of Japan makes Busan a trade hub, where small foreign companies set up shop.

Over the years, foreign communities have planted their own districts within the city, giving it a friendly, welcoming feel.

But what really makes Busan is its easy juxtaposition of the urban and the natural. Swanky highrise blocks give way to cool, hikeable mountains.

The coast is lined with beaches, from quiet Songdo to see-and-be-seen Haeundae. The latter throws rock festivals and sandcastle exhibitions all summer long, and recently hit Guinness record fame for the most parasols set up on a single beach.

You can hit Busan’s galleries and shops at ten o’clock, take a mountain hike at noon, and come down well before sunset for a dip in the sea or some live music.

Damyang

Sitting between two mountains in southwestern Korea, the small town of Damyang has 25 dense hectares of green bamboo forests.

Photo: Tennessee Wanderer

While Korean cities tend to get smoggy and humid in the summertime, this natural reserve is said to stay five degrees cooler than the rest of the town. This makes Damyang a refreshing summer trip; one that Koreans will happily make from the far reaches of the country.

Families come for picnics, couples carve their initials into bamboo stalks, and souvenir vendors will try their darndest to send you home with a set of bamboo wind chimes, placemats, toy swords, or panpipes.

Hungry? Local restaurant menus are inclined to feature bamboo in each and every dish, Iron Chef style. Expect to see bamboo soup, stew, noodles, pastries.

When waiters tell you it’s “very healthy” and “good for stamina” (wink wink), don’t assume that’s code for “yeah, it’s vile, just eat it.” Bamboo’s mild flavor takes to pretty much any dish.

Jeju

The island of Jeju-do is the #1 Korean honeymoon spot, a little bit Hawaii and a little bit South Padre.

It’s also got the mountain of Halla-San, South Korea’s highest peak. Hiking trails are graded and can take you to pretty lookouts, or all the way to the top.

Photo: giladr

Equestrianism is another big thing here, and there are a dozen horseback riding facilities, most of which will nonchalantly throw in cowboy costumes when you take a ride.

A laid-back holiday option is to rent a motorbike and tour Jeju-do’s pretty beaches. In the summer, the water is clear and cool. In the winter, the island attracts “penguin clubs” who take icy dips in the sea.

In the city of Jeju, hotels range from basic to honeymoon-cheesy, with heart-shaped beds, tubs, light fixtures, and rugs.

On that note, one of Jeju’s most popular after-dark activities is Jeju Loveland. It’s Korea’s only sex theme park, founded by a group of (who else?) university art students.

Here, you can stroll among larger-than-life sculptures of midcoitus couples, soloists, and huge, huge sex organs.

Gyeongju

Korea’s answer to Pleasantville is a breath of fresh, smog-free air. No skyscrapers, no 6-lane roads…heck, I don’t recall seeing any escalators.

Photo: yeowatzup

In the former capital of the Silla Dynasty, no one’s in a hurry. This is good news for visitors, since the town has some monumental historic sights. Take your time exploring them.

The nearby temple complex of Seokguram Grotto is one of South Korea’s proudest historic structures. The Buddhist park feel like an open-air museum of Eastern art.

Gilded Buddhas, stone pagodas, and the beautiful Bulguksa temple all hold National Treasure status as relics of the former dynasty (and all-around gorgeous artifacts).

A little less serene, Gyeongju’s also home to Han-Ho, an internationally rated high-speed go-karting track.

Those traveling in April can see the town get messy in its weekend-long rice cake and soju festival. The former is a sweet, addictive dessert; the latter, Korea’s most popular (and potent) alcohol. Festival vendors hand out generous samples of both.

Boseong

Picture yourself as the star of the most persuasive green tea commercial ever made. Rolling hills? Dewy tea leaves? Technicolor shades of green? Yep, that’s Boseong.

Photo: leojmelsrub

Its green tea fields have such pastoral beauty that cinematographers often use the location for movies and melodramas (and yes, a high-budget commercial or two). Korean daytrippers love it too, and will hike the fields with enormous, cumbersome cameras, trying to capture it all.

In addition to lovely views, this region of the South Jeolla province is said to grow the most delicious green tea in South Korea. The plantation of Daehandawon is the oldest and largest in the area, set in a cool cedar forest.

From the tea plantation, a 15-minute bus or cab will take you to the tiny coastal village of Hwa-dong. It’s worth a visit for a post-hike trip to the jinjaeban: a Korean public spa. The one in Hwa-dong offers a range of hot green tea baths.

Community Connection

If this post inspires you to plan a trip, make sure to study the 10 Korean Customs To Know Before You Visit Korea.

Many, many Matadorians have spent time in South Korea, including Trips editor Hal Amen. You can hit him up with your questions by visiting his Matador profile.

Photo: Diegosaurius Rex

1. Don’t… visit Torres del Paine during high season

December-March in this vast national park in southern Chile is not the time to find quiet solitude — especially on the trekker-happy “W” circuit.

The park fills up with people, the concessioned campsites turn into cities, and the “rustic” ones turn into villages.

Do… go during shoulder season

Or better yet, visit another Patagonia park, such as Queulat, home to bursting fuchsia plants, the elusive huemúl (a stocky, endangered deer that appears on Chile’s coat of arms), and a glacier-spawned waterfall.

Slightly farther north is the practically unvisited Tolhuaca National Park, full of monkey-puzzle trees and red-crested woodpeckers the length of your forearm.

2. Don’t… take the Navimag to the Laguna San Rafael glacier

This boat ride is pricey, uncomfortable, and makes you feel like you’re on a floating class trip, complete with skits and cafeteria-style eating.

Photo: Author

You’ll spend way too much money to sleep in a room with 15 other travelers, beside a ferry engine vibrating at the exact frequency that precipitates insanity, all to spend an hour hundreds of yards from the glacier in a cramped Zodiac with a bunch of whiskey-glomming Chileans.

Do… hike to the El Morado Glacier

This one is much more accessible, your starting point being Cajón de Maipo (near Santiago).

Another option is a day trip from Puerto Natales to the Serrano and Balmaceda Glaciers via a 4-hour boat trip past sea lion and cormorant colonies. Yes, you’ll get to see both ice blocks, plus take a short forest hike.

Alternatively (and don’t tell any Chileans I said this), go to Argentina for the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the world’s only advancing glaciers.

3. Don’t… go to Concha y Toro winery or take the Tren del Vino (Wine Train)

There’s great wine and great wine tourism in Chile, but CyT is considered a “wine for dummies” pick, and the train could be fairly described as the “wine for those very eager to part with large sums of money” option.

Do… go it solo in the Casablanca, Colchagua, or nearby valleys

This is doable with a little research. Pick up Margaret Snook’s book Vinos para Todos, whip out your Spanish-English dictionary, and run your own tasting based on these and regular-folk recommendations for top Chilean wines — which, incidentally, should only run between $2 and $10.

You could also take a tour with a local independent wine expert like Karen Gilchrist from winetravelchile.com. For the luxury wine-tourist set, Liz Caskey is recommended.

4. Don’t… take the Cerro San Cristobal funicular

Photo: Amable Odiable

The top of Santiago’s second-tallest hill is a popular photo-op spot.

But take the funicular and you’ll be missing one of the best parts: fabulous views of the mountains on the way up and down.

Do… hike up on the Zorro Vidal path

This trail takes about 40 minutes at a reasonable pace and is accessible from the Bellavista (Pio Nono) entrance. Or rent a bike on the Pedro de Valdivia side and pedal up (30-40 minutes).

This way, you earn your syrupy, rich mote con huesillo (a drink made with hyper-sweetened peach punch, reconstituted dehydrated peaches, and wheat kernels) from the vendors at the top.

Cerro San Cristobal mini-do: the Japanese Garden
Cerro San Cristobal mini-don’t: the zoo. Animal lovers will cringe.

5. Don’t… assume LAN Chile is all she wrote

The country’s national air carrier is NOT the last word when it comes to domestic travel.

Do… take the bus

Overnight buses can be downright luxurious.

Otherwise, the train is a slow but scenic option as far south as Temuco, and Sky Airlines can often beat all of the aforementioned’s prices.

The usual warning to buy in advance applies, including on buses during the summer, high season, and long weekends.

6. Don’t… loiter downtown or near Plaza Italia after an important soccer match

Photo: Paul Lowry

Especially if Universidad de Chile (La U) or Colo Colo are playing.

Chilean post-game hooliganism (by hinchas, or diehard fans) has taken hold, and a bus or metro trip with these screaming, chanting fans — one of whom stabbed another to death with a fork not long ago — is not where you want to be.

Do… watch a game at an out-of-the-way bar or restaurant

Or simply take the 90 minutes when the game is on as an excuse to enjoy the streets nearly completely solo. And then get back inside before the melee starts.

Word to the wise…those police water cannons? They can (and do) also spew tear gas into rowdy crowds.

7. Don’t… look for Chilean fashion in the fancy malls

That would be Alto Las Condes or Parque Arauco. Chilean-made department store items are even pricier than what you’d buy at home.

Do… hit up Calle Bandera to buy used clothing

Or, better yet, head for nearby Patronato, a zany warren of blasting music and inexpensive clothes, manufactured in Chile (or China) for a fraction of the price (and some say quality) of what you’ll find in big-name stores like Falabella or Paris.

Keep your wallet close, and stop for a falafel or some Korean food while you’re there.

8. Don’t… eat salmon at the Mercado Central

Actually, don’t eat it anywhere in the country.

Nearly all salmon in Chile is farmed, contains antibiotics and dyes banned in many countries, and — if you know your salmon — is nearly flavorless.

Photo: Author

Do… order anything else at the central market

Head into the chaos, choose your spot, and try one of the other grilled fish dishes, or opt for paila marina, a brothy soup of random sea creatures including several kinds of bivalves, the red sea squirt, and — if you’re lucky — a giant barnacle.

Less adventurous stomachs might prefer pastel de jaiba, an impossibly thick cheesy crab bisque.

9. Don’t… expect to understand a word anyone says

Even if you studied Spanish in high school, or college, or high school and college plus a stint traveling around Central America ten years ago, you simply will NOT understand what the average Chilean is saying.

They talk fast, swallow their s’s and wash them down with about half their d’s, and use an impenetrable slang and a special conjugation form that only exists in this sliver of South America.

Do… try anyway

A lot of visitors to Chile don’t speak any Spanish at all, so if you make an effort, people will appreciate it.

If you throw in a “¿cachai?” (”get it?” in local slang) or two, people will grin and nod and applaud your Chileno, as locals call the language.

10. Don’t… expect Santiago to be Buenos Aires

The two capital cities are just a couple mountain ranges apart, but Buenos Aires is South America’s NYC, something Santiago could never approximate — despite the fact that it calls one of its upscale neighborhoods “Sanhattan.”

Do… see Santiago for what it is, past and present

Photo: Rodrigo Basaure

Years of history, miles and mountains of separation, and waves of different settlers have contributed to making Santiago the way it is.

The city tends to be under-appreciated, under-touristed, and generally underrated. Get to know Santiago on her own terms and learn something the travel industrial complex can’t (or won’t) tell you.

Community Connection

Partial to the beach? Read about Chile’s Best Coast Towns and, more specifically, how to have Fun in the Desert Sun: Pan de Azucar, Chile.

Photo: Panoramas

Eat Slowly

Lyon, the country’s oft-named culinary capital, is a good starting point if restaurant meals are what you’re after. But make sure not to confine yourself — after you’ve discovered what the city has to offer, pick a neighboring region and dive in. It’s likely to offer cuisine just as rewarding.

And, even if you invest in the informative Michelin Red Guide, complement its pages by asking the locals what and where they like to eat and drink. They’ll passionately tell you, and their answers can point you to places Michelin missed.

Photo: Rubber Slippers In Italy

Food in France is really all about its markets, its growers, and its local ingredients, celebrated in regional annual festivals throughout the country. Food and wine are the ultimate art forms of this nation.

For me the greatest experience with French food comes from exploring the unique ingredients and products of a region.

I recommend making regular market visits a central part of your traveler’s routine — you’ll find there’s a weekly one wherever you are.

There you’ll see all the ingredients of an authentically local dish artistically displayed by the people who grow them.

Sacred France

The French landscape has been marked with sacred sites since prehistoric times. Here are some highlights of the diverse ancestry of spiritual France:

Lascaux is a much more powerful site than your art history text lets on. Even its precisely replicated Lascaux II — the only part of the complex you’re now allowed to enter — will make an impression.

After your visit to the cave, you can enjoy a picnic lunch in the hilltop forest that covers it.

Photo: Eusebius@Commons

Chartres must be the medieval Lascaux. Parallels are easy given the intimacy, artistry, light, and warm cavernous spaces of both places. But there’s no comparison for Chartres’ illuminated stained glass windows.

The 13th-century cathedral also has a labyrinth built into the nave floor, a contemplative pilgrimage path offered to those who couldn’t make the more distant journeys to Santiago de Compostela, Rome, or Jerusalem in the Middle Ages.

Ste-Chapelle, a Gothic church from the 13th century on the Île de la Cité in Paris, is the perfect space for quiet prayer and meditation.

Mont St-Michel is a Benedictine fortress site from the 11th century. Some claim it sits on a ley line and power spot that is far more ancient, one that belongs to the Archangel Michael (St-Michel) as he works his energy across the globe.

The Romanesque pilgrim’s and seaman’s 11th-century Église Ste-Radegonde — near the fishing hamlet of Talmont-sur-Gironde on the Garonne estuary north of Bordeaux — is a lesser-known church that’s worth the effort of a visit for its cliffside setting.

In Brittany, the ancient standing stones of Carnac are among the world’s most important Neolithic sites, dating to around 6,500 to 4,000 years ago.

Nearby, Le Forêt de Paimport, mythically referred to as Brocéliande Forest, is a contender for the legendary land of King Arthur and the home of the mythical Morgan Le Fay.

Le Chemin de Saint-Jacques is a network of pilgrimage roads starting in or passing through France and destined for Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The most popular begins in Le Puy-en-Velay and leads to the French-Spanish border at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Three other major routes start in Paris, Vézelay, and Arles.

Photo: McPig

Romance in France

Paris, of course, is high on the list of French romantic destinations — and for good reason. But beyond the capital, where to? Here are some ideas:

A walk along the sea trail in Normandy from St-Malo to Cancale — for oysters, bien sûr, a well-known aphrodisiac.

Arles may very well be the most romantic town in France, when the mosquitoes aren’t active (summer and early autumn). Arles in October? Mon dieu. Yes.

Bicycling in Provence.

Canoeing along the Dordogne River.

A wine tour of Burgundy.

And finally, touching again on local markets; there’s nothing more romantic than spending a lazy morning buying ingredients — baguettes, cheeses, wine — for an outdoor lunch at a nearby park, riverbank, or countryside overlook.

Community Connection

This is the fifth and final installment in Beebe’s series of Eat, Pray, Love guides. The other four cover Spain, Morocco, Portugal, and the USA.

Photo above: octal, Feature photo: Joi

Slow to the punch, I was recently directed to an article from The Independent published in April of this year: The dark side of Dubai.

It’s the story of a failed experiment in city/utopia building, where the global economic crisis has emptied malls and hotels and halted nearly all construction — this in a city that gave rise to the oft-repeated (and oft-debunked) factoid that it employees a quarter of the world’s construction cranes.

According to the article, Dubai has failed not only economically, but also socially. Emiratis (who make up just 5% of the population) are educated up to the PhD level at no cost, while armies of impoverished foreign laborers live in bondage and lack clean drinking water. Anyone who raises a critical voice is deported (expats), financially ruined (Emiratis), or imprisoned (foreign workers).

Jaw Dropped

It’s a shocking account. And it’s almost too much to believe.

I’ll admit my immediate reaction leaned toward skepticism. Part of it is that — to me — Johann Hari’s writing comes off scripted, the neatly framed and overly witty words of someone who knew what he wanted to write before he stepped off the plane.

And part of it is that I simply hope the picture he paints isn’t accurate.

Photo: ● Creative Ξye ●● ÂĻŜuЩaίĐί ●

* A slave labor system where South Asian construction workers and East African housekeepers are lured to Dubai by third-party recruiters, only to have their passports confiscated, promised wages halved or withheld, and every waking hour conscripted.

* A body of expats that delight in the hedonism the socioeconomic order allows them, living with a constant buzz on and complaining that there are too many Indians throwing themselves in front of their SUVs in a last-ditch effort to escape the system.

* An ocean — Dubai’s biggest tourist draw — darkened with raw sewage as the delicate, super-arid environment begins to collapse under the weight of forced modernity.

Please tell me these caricatures were lifted from some sci-fi dystopia, not the streets of reality.

Speak Up

Matador Abroad’s Tim Patterson already put out a call for on-the-ground voices from Dubai. I’d like to renew that invitation — though, if The Independent’s article is any indication, those voices will probably need to be “recently-left-the-ground.”

Have you traveled to or lived in Dubai? How does your experience square with The Independent’s exposé of the city’s “dark side“?

Speak up in the comments, or email me directly at hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com to discuss telling your story in a Trips feature.

Norway fjords / Photo: vigour

Not to be confused with a popularity contest, the 6th annual survey by the National Geographic Society’s Center for Sustainable Destinations highlights 133 worldwide destinations and how they rate in terms of criteria like sustainability, social and cultural integrity, quality of tourism management, and aesthetic quality.

Wait. Aesthetic quality? Social and cultural integrity? I imagine those would be pretty tough to get statistics on. These are, of course, subjective to human experience and not very tangible aspects of place.

So, is the survey a bunch of hogwash?

Costa del Sol / Photo: BY-YOUR-⌘

Well, if you trust the judgment of 437 “well-traveled experts in a variety of fields — historic preservation, site management, geography, sustainable tourism, ecology, indigenous cultures, travel writing and photography, and archaeology”, then I guess the answer would be no.

According to NG, “We contact as many experts in pertinent fields as we can and ask them to rate the places they know. We then average their scores and publish the results…Experts began by posting points of view on each place — anonymously, to ensure objectivity. After reading each others’ remarks — a variation of a research tool called the Delphi technique — panelists then filed their final scores.”

The study was published in the Nov-Dec 2009 issue of National Geographic Traveler. The list is bookended by Norway’s Fjords Region as the best-rated (score of 85), and by Spain’s Costa del Sol (score of 31) as the worst-rated. One panelist’s comments about the Fjords Region:

Environmental quality is at the highest level. Landscape is amazing and aesthetically one of the most beautiful. The icons of Norway are so unique that it is difficult to imagine anything else. The local culture can be seen on the shores and mountains. It gives an ideal overview of well-preserved Norwegian rural life.

About Costa del Sol (aka Costa del Concrete), one had this to say:

Creaking under the weight of Brits and Germans who have retired to this southern Spanish coast, Costa del Sol is likely to suffer as the world economic situation causes them to return home.

The area must go more and more down-market to maintain market share (and will do so), but this is an area where volume tourism rules, with little real consideration, it seems, for its impact or need for regulation. Not sustainable.

These two destinations, at opposite ends of the spectrum, occupied the same spots in the first survey (2004), the difference being the Fjords Region now rates even higher than in 2004 and Costa del Sol lower — the best gets better and the worst gets worse.

NG sums up this trend in the survey by saying this: “When people care about the condition of a place, its score tends to go up and stay there.”

Other notable rated destinations

Best-rated

Vermont / Photo: Paraflyer

(81 points) Kootenay/Yoho National Parks, British Columbia – “Low level of development and visitation make these parks relatively unspoiled.”

(78 points) Vermont, USA – The top-rated American destination. “Vermont, more than any other American state, has worked to preserve those qualities and characteristics that make it unique.”

Places in the balance

(62 points) Great Barrier Reef, Australia – “Environmental and ecological quality is suffering due to coral bleaching which stems from a variety of causes, including agricultural runoff and increasing ocean temperatures. Social and cultural integrity is compromised by the impact of European settlements on the indigenous lifestyle.”

(57 points) Santorini, Greece – “One of the most sensational sites in the world. The towns are beautifully maintained. The beach area could be improved. But the island is overrun with tourists and the road is crowded—a bit of a madhouse.”

Worst-Rated Places

Cabo San Lucas / Photo: Jillian2012

(37 points) Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – “A tourism catastrophe. Total focus on money, lack of environmental attention, lack of local benefit except in menial jobs. Entire coast bought up by developers destroying turtle beaches and places that should remain natural and protected. Very little authentic local culture presented.”

(35 points) Bahamas: Grand Bahama – “The selling off of ‘protected’ islands is unconscionable. An unbelievable amount of garbage has washed up on the beaches. ‘Locally produced’ products in the straw markets are a joke; there should be a quality artisan market.”

* Thanks to traveling greener for sending the link my way.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

What kind of effect might a survey like this have on these destinations? If it drives tourists away from the worst places, will that be incentive for them to “clean up their act”?

Could it have an adverse effect on the top-rated destinations?

Share your thoughts below!

Palais Theatre in St. Kilda / Photo: Carlo Alcos

[Note: I live on the south side of Melbourne, so naturally that's where most of these are.]

1. Go for a bike ride

Sometimes the weather can be a bit blustery down at the water, but a seaside bike ride is tough to beat. Start in Port Melbourne where the ferry, the Spirit of Tasmania, docks and ride south along palm tree lined beaches into St. Kilda.

Brighton Beach / Photo: Yvonne Alcos

Still got energy? The path doesn’t end there; keep heading south to Brighton Beach and check out the multi-coloured beach shacks, then to the Red Bluff of Black Rock for views of burnt-orange cliffs hanging over the ocean.

If you’ve happened to pack a tent with you, may as well keep going down to the Mornington Peninsula. Lots of foreshore camping to choose from.

2. Go for a hike

For a Canadian, calling the Dandenongs a “mountain range” is a bit of a stretch, but nonetheless they make for great hiking options near the city. You can get there by train — take the Belgrave line and get off at the Upper Ferntree Gully station — and of course by car. There’s a good network of trails through mountain ash forests, fern gullies, and boxwood stringybark woodland.

3. Go for a coffee and/or brekkie

Melbourne = coffee. Push Starbucks and any Australian chain like Gloria Jeans or Hudsons Coffee to the far edges of your mind. I’ve personally taste tested dozens of independent cafes around the city and these are by far my favourites to grab a “flat white” or a latte and some grub:

* Leroy Esperesso – corner of Barkley and Acland, St. Kilda. Order take-away from the window serviced by friendly gals. Sometimes it can take a while, but there’s a reason it’s always busy and a reason they take their time with the coffee. Spend your waiting time people-watching; it’s an eclectic scene.

Photo: Yvonne Alcos

* Inkr7 – 7 Inkerman Street, St. Kilda. The coffee runs a close second to Leroy. Get your mitts on a cinnamon scroll if they have them. Baked fresh.

* Mart 130 – Middle Park tram stop on the #96 tram. Mart is tram spelled backwards; the cafe is at tram stop 130. Get it?

I first made mention of this place in the article Matador’s Favourite Restaurants in the World. Top-notch coffees, top-notch brekkies. Sometimes it’s just fun to sit out back and watch people come and go as the trams make their stop.

4. Go play trivia

The Doulton Bar in St. Kilda does trivia night on Thursdays. Know your random facts. A $100 bar tab is the grand prize, but you can also score yourself a free beer if you volunteer to be one of the “horses” in the horse race. Game players guess who can chug a beer the fastest. The winning horse scores his/her team an extra two points.

Pure Pop Records, a great place to catch live acts in a secluded back courtyard, hosts Music Trivia on Tuesdays. Show up by 7 PM to add your name to the list.

5. Go scour the op-shops

Opportunity shops (aka op shops) can be great to find bargains and generally fun to browse around in. It’s always interesting to see what people are getting rid of these days. Flip through the dusty stack of vinyl records, picture what that 1960s dresser would look like re-stained, or pick yourself out a new traveling wardrobe (depending how long you’ve been traveling for, you may be sick of your clothes by now).

Op shops here are like Starbucks in Seattle. There’s practically one on every corner.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

What are your favourite things to do in your city?

At the summit of Huascarán, Peru / Photo: RastaChango

UNESCO has granted World Heritage status to 890 global “properties.” With a collection this expansive, there’s gotta be about 800 sites the average person has never heard of.

It’s a fact the Telegraph takes up with its photo essay Obscure World Heritage Sites, comprising profiles of 20 lesser-known destinations that UNESCO felt deserved the same level of protection as the Taj Mahal or Angkor Wat.

I found these of particular interest:

Huascarán National Park, Peru

The park protects the tallest tropical mountains in the world, the Cordillera Blanca, with peaks as high as 6,768 meters (22,200 feet). Glacial lakes and species such as the Andean condor and spectacled bear define the area.

As a tropical glacial region, this World Heritage Site is one of the places in the world most vulnerable to climate change.

Defence Line of Amsterdam, the Netherlands

Back in the late 19th century, the plan was to seal off Amsterdam in case of attack. This would be done by flooding an intricate system of canals in and around the city.

The defence line was never used, but the moats and the 45 armed forts built to guard the system have been well preserved and can be visited today.

Photo: marfis75

Okapi Wildlife Reserve, Democratic Republic of Congo

Only 30,000 okapi (think body of a deer, legs of a zebra, head of a giraffe) remain in the wild, and 5,000 of these are found in the Okapi Wildlife Reserve. Nomadic pygmy tribes also call this region of the Congo river basin home.

Along with the four other World Heritage Sites in the DRC, the reserve is flagged as “in danger.”

Cyrene, Libya

Though few have heard of it today, Cyrene was a major metropolitan center in ancient Greek times. Its importance continued into the Roman period, until it was destroyed by earthquake in A.D. 365. Now it’s one of the world’s lesser-known ruins.

Białowieża Forest, Belarus

Europe was once covered by old-growth forest. Today, there’s only one place you can go to get an idea of what it was like: this stretch of woodland along the Belarus-Poland border. Protected animals within the forest include wolves, lynxes, and the recently reintroduced European bison.

Białowieża’s World Heritage status goes back to 1979, only the second year in which designations were made. This says something about the significance UNESCO sees in it.

For the rest of the 20, make sure to check out the original photo essay here.

Community Connection

The Trips post 13 of Asia’s Most Spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Sites includes some places you probably have heard of. We also bring you the latest news on the subject in 13 Additions to the UNESCO World Heritage List (and One Deletion).

UNESCO isn’t the only organization making these kinds of designations. Find out what the World Monuments Fund considers to be 2010’s Most Endangered Cultural Sites.

Photo: stevenvanwel

1. Don’t… see the Mona Lisa

More than 25,000 people visit the Louvre every day, and it seems like the majority of them head straight for this painting.

The Mona Lisa is much smaller than most people think and is easily blocked by just a single head in front of you — it’s nearly impossible to ever get a clear view.

Photo: Lynt

Do… beat the crowds at the Louvre

Head in the opposite direction of the masses and discover some of the other 35,000 masterpieces on show, such as Napoleon III’s apartments, the incredible Egyptian gallery, and the ruins of the original Louvre constructions, built as a 12th-century fortress.

Thanks to Da Vinci, the vast majority of these can be viewed in complete solitude.

2. Don’t… take a Seine dinner cruise

River cruises themselves aren’t a bad deal. They only run about eight euros and offer a great perspective from which to take in the city’s architecture and sights.

But when you add dinner, the cost soars to over 100 euros a head, and all you get for it is sub-standard food served in a crowded, noisy dining area.

Do… find the best in Parisian cuisine

There’s no good reason to eat bad food in Paris, a city with some of the most highly regarded restaurants in the world. And, contrary to what you might assume, not all of them are beyond the budget of the average traveler.

Paris’s oldest restaurant, for example, serves tasting menus that start from 45 euros. Check it out: Laperouse

3. Don’t… climb the Eiffel Tower

Checking out Gustave Eiffel’s masterpiece — the world’s most-visited monument — is practically mandatory for every Paris visitor, but that doesn’t mean you have to go up.

If you do, you’ll stand in line…and not just one line. There are a total of seven, including one for each lift and the line for tickets.

Photo: tibchris

Do… find yourself a sweet city view

There are plenty of other places to get a photogenic panorama, like the Tour Montparnasse, or even the Arc de Triomphe.

The queues are short (if not nil), and you’ll have a city view that includes its most famous landmark — something which isn’t possible if you’re standing on it.

4. Don’t… visit the Bastille

Not so much you shouldn’t visit this, but that you can’t.

The entire Bastille complex was destroyed during the Revolution and many tourists hop off at the ‘Bastille’ metro stop only to be disappointingly confronted by a busy traffic intersection and nothing more.

Do… brush up on city history

Should the Revolution — or any other period in Paris’s past — be of particular interest, check out the free Musée Carnavalet for your history lessons.

5. Don’t… take a Da Vinci Code tour

These tours are among the most expensive in the city and take in relatively few sights.

Not only that, but if you’re a fan of the novel, be prepared to get off the bus wondering if Dan Brown has even been to Paris, let alone researched any of the sights he mentions in the book.

Do… pay for a real tour

Instead of bowing to pop culture, sign up for an outing that’ll fill you in on the real stories behind Paris, such as the Rive Gauche Tour, Montmartre, or the Paris Food Crawl. More info can be found here.

Photo: gillesklein

6. Don’t… sip coffee in a famous café

It can be tempting to hit up Café de Flore or les Deux Magots — favored spots of Sartre and Beauvoir — or Café des Deux Moulins, which took a starring role in the film Amélie.

However, while the clientele may once have been notable, the only thing you can expect now is bad service at double the price of any neighbouring café.

Do… stop in next door

Whether your thing is people watching or a caffeine fix, the best thing you can do is turn your back on the famous names and choose the café opposite (or next door) for a practically identical experience at a more reasonable price.

7. Don’t… escape to Nice

Many people looking to venture beyond Paris automatically think Nice, and I’m not exactly sure why. Nice is a busy city with terrible traffic, little history or culture, and an ugly pebble beach.

Put a pin anywhere in a map of France (except perhaps Marseille) and you’ll hit a place with more attractions and charm than this.

Do… consider other extra-urban destinations

For a beach break, Bordeaux is pretty nice, home to international windsurfing competitions and Europe’s largest sand dune, the Dune du Pyla.

Photo: geoftheref

But you don’t have to travel far from the city to explore more of what France has to offer. The Loire Valley is just an hour from Paris and features enough culture, history, castles, fine food, and “authentic” small towns to keep you busy for weeks (if not months).

8. Don’t… fly into (or out of) Beauvais

There are dozens of places close to Beauvais Airport, but Paris isn’t one of them. It’s a 90-minute ride into the city (longer during rush hour), and the one-way trip cost of 13 euros eats up a lot of the savings made on that budget flight.

Even worse is when you have an early morning departure. You’ll most likely need to take an expensive Parisian cab to the bus station, since the Paris metro doesn’t run before 5am and sleeping in the airport is not allowed.

Do… stick to the time-honored hubs

Use a search engine like Kayak to find the most competitive fares to Charles de Gaulle or Orly Airports, both of which have direct — and much quicker — links to the city.

Community Connection

For more advice from Matt, check out How to Save Money in Paris.

Other Matador resources on Paris:

Green Guide to Paris

Top 10 Free Things to Do in Paris

How to Move to Paris with No Money

Photo: dannysullivan

According to findings from a new children’s tourism report, Stonehenge is Britain’s best-loved national landmark. The survey, conducted with 2,500 children aged between eight and 15 years old in September 2009 by budget hotel chain Travelodge, revealed that young Brits are more in thrall to historical sites than modern attractions.

Hadrian’s Wall came in second place, The London Eye third; Scotland’s famous Edinburgh Castle — built in the mid 1700s and perched on an extant volcano — was fourth.

The only natural landmark to make the list were the White Cliffs of Dover (seventh), and the only example of modern sculpture was Antony Gormley’s ‘The Angel of the North’ (eighth).

Overall the poll seems to indicate a generation of Britons that are more historically minded but keen to preserve these oldest of national treasures — a heartening counter-balance to the media stories of youthful binge drinking and teenage consumerism.

Then again, further research showed that the same kids would prefer to take a holiday with Simon Cowell over Barack Obama. Well, you can’t expect kids to have taste in everything.

Top 10 British iconic landmarks as voted by young Britons:

1. Stonehenge
2. Hadrian’s Wall
3. London Eye
4. Edinburgh Castle
5. Buckingham Palace
6. Tower of London
7. White Cliffs of Dover
8. Angel of the North
9. Blackpool Tower
10. St Paul’s Cathedral

What else do kids like on the road?

Top 10 favourite activities whilst travelling in the car/train to their holiday destination:

Photo: D Sharon Pruitt

1. Listening to their Ipod
2. Playing games with family members
3. Playing on their games console
4. Reading a book or comic
5. Watching a DVD
6. Sleeping
7. Catching up with mum and dad
8. Doing a puzzle book
9. Listening to a story on CD
10. Colouring

Top 10 games kids like to play in the car / train en-route to their holiday destination:

1. I-Spy
2. 20 Questions
3. Singing games
4. The Yes / No game
5. Memory games
6. Telling silly stories
7. Card games
8. Counting games
9. The Theme song game
10. Simon Says

Top 5 celebrities kids think would make a fun holiday companion:

1. Cheryl Cole
2. Simon Cowell
3. Barack Obama
4. Hannah Montana
5. David Beckham

Community Connection

Do you have anything to add to these lists? Feel free to share below!

Photo: Rodrigo Basaure

1. La Vega

Nowhere in Santiago feels more South American than La Vega. Wander the city centre streets with its uninspiring but earthquake-proof architecture and you feel you could be anywhere.

Not in La Vega.

Santiago’s main market, set in a shady part of town next to the murky Mapocho River, is gloriously, chaotically Latin American.

Photo: lo que percibo

Fruit and veg is piled high inside and out, sellers brag about the size of their plums, housewives are scolded for squeezing the fruit, and flies buzz around the vats of olives and hunks of cheese.

Foreigners may not enjoy the pigs’ heads that look out from the butchers’ stalls, but the stray cats and dogs sure do.

Dirty and oppressively busy at the weekend it may be, but I love it.

2. Lastarria

Barely more than a single street, Barrio Lastarria is home to a fine collection of bars and restaurants frequented by people who wear designer glasses and black polo necks.

There’s a decent art-house cinema, a museum, a theatre, a tiny park, several boutiques, and a book and antique market at the weekends. You might also catch a glimpse of the man in a skirt and headscarf who sells doll heads from a blanket.

However, I like it best first thing in the morning. When the sun glints off the cobblestones and the terracotta walls of the Veracruz church and the smell of fresh bread wafts along the street, it couldn’t be lovelier.

3. Tostaderia Puerto Rico, Calle San Pablo (near the Central Fish Market)

I fell in love with this one the moment I saw it. Santiago is the capital of Nescafe-land, but this little shop sells and grinds beans from Brazil, Columbia, and Costa Rica. It’s worth ordering some for the smell alone (Costa Rican is the best).

Also on sale are herbs and spices, potions and powders, dried fruit, and baking ingredients.

Destinations

Community Connection to Chile

Watch out for the old ladies with sharp elbows.

4. Bar El Ático, Irarrazaval 1060, Ñuñoa

Not only because it reminds me of home and plays the best music in the whole city, but because Bar El Ático is a sanctuary from reggaeton and Latin American pop.

Indie as it comes, I found my people here. The Pixies, Radiohead, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah and the like sound all the better when you’ve not heard them played out for a while.

5. The terrace of Emporio La Rosa, Calle Monjitas, Parque Forestal

Two minutes from home is one of Santiago’s most popular ice cream parlours. It’s not my absolute favourite (you can read where is here), but the ice cream is darn good and it’s in a great spot.

My pick: chocolate and chili.

Photo: Diegosaurius Rex

6. The General Cemetery

Yes, once a goth, always a goth, but this is also the place to learn about Santiago’s culture and painful history.

It’s flower-filled and calm, albeit busy with families picnicking around the graves of loved ones at the weekend. I went on the nighttime tour for Revolver back in autumn and paid homage to folk legends Victor Jara and Violeta Parra.

Perfect for history buffs.

7. Mimo’s Hairdressers, Mosqueto, Bellas Artes

High on entertainment value, Mimo’s is an institution. It’s run by a crazy Argentinean named Miguel, and he really knows how to cut hair. Judging by his constant stream of conversation, he seems to know about a lot of other things as well.

He once spent many minutes telling me that the left side of my hair was like the sea and that the stubborn flick of hair above my right ear was the masculine part of my personality expressing itself.

Another time he refused to continue cutting until I’d promised to start a daily mantra that would harness my inner winner.

He often disappears for minutes at a time, returning with a violent sniff and talking ten to the dozen.

The salon itself is full of delightful misfits who smoke like chimneys and nod along to the deafening techno. They play songs that have lyrics in English like ‘suck me hard oh yeah’ and the resident Yorkshire terrier has a purple and green fringe.

As you leave, they all shout out, ‘¡Mira! ¡Que linnnnnnnnda!’ It really is the most marvellous place.

8. Bellavista

By night, Pio Nono (Bellavista’s central street) is like an English wedding gone bad. Like us Brits, Chileans appear to have an amazing capacity for alcohol but no off switch.

But while Pio Nono is full of lurching drunks slopping Escudo over each other, two minutes away on Constitución civilised dining goes on in expensive restaurants.

Bellavista’s as chaotic as Soho, with live folk venues fighting for space alongside neon-lit clubs, hot dog joints, and salsa hangouts.

Photo: garchauro

During the day, it’s great for graffiti spotting. If you’re lucky, you might catch an old crooner singing ballads on the stage behind the Feria at the weekend.

9. Centro Arte Alameda

You just don’t get cinemas like this anymore in England. Independent films in a quirky space that often has design fairs, gigs, and club nights too.

10. The swimming pool on Cerro San Cristóbal

Stupidly expensive and only open for a few months of the year, but by god what a view. Surrounded by the Andes and jaw-dropping vistas of the city on clear days…I’d go every day if I could.

So, those are my favourite places in Santiago. What are yours?

Community Connection

Trips wants to hear your favorite spots from wherever in the world you call home. Compile your list and send it to hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com.

Photo: ricardo.martin

According to the Hotel Rosengarten website, this all-nude hotel in the Black Forest has postponed their opening indefinitely due to lack of investors. And though I haven’t been able to ascertain if the trial for nude flights booked with OssiUrlaub.de was successful or not, I can’t find anywhere to book a seat on one of their planes.

Despite the uncertainty of these two naked ventures, there is one thing for both Germans and naturists to look forward to: the opening next May of an 11-mile hiking trail through the Harz Mountains in northern Germany, catering to those who like to stomp around in the buff.

The nude hiking route will start in the village of Dankerode — at the campsite of Heinz Ludwig, the man responsible for organizing the route — and end at the Wippertal dam. Traditional clothed hikers are welcome on the trail, but there will be clear signage of what they may bump into.

Fair warning.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Gun shy? Read 10 Traveler’s Tips For Rocking a Nudist Beach.

Photo above: Tavallai

1. Don’t… play pachinko

Pachinko is one of the few ways to legally gamble in Japan, but don’t be lured into a parlor thinking you’ll see attractions like those of Vegas. The place is beyond loud, and full of cigarette smoke.

The games themselves should be reserved for a 10th circle in Dante’s Inferno. Imagine a pinball machine with a computer screen display; once you pull the lever you have literally no control as to where the ball ends up.

Just like in Vegas, you’ll find burnt-out slot jockeys mechanically inserting yen, winning once every 27 days. Fun fun.

Photo: Steph & Adam

Do… sing karaoke

A karaoke booth with an all-you-can-drink special is a much better alternative if you want to be surrounded by video screens and loud noises.

It’s nothing like a country-western karaoke bar in the U.S.

All the booths in Japan are private, so you can only make an ass of yourself in front of close friends.

The Shidax chain is my favorite, but every town should have at least one place to sing.

2. Don’t… climb Mt. Fuji when there’s a line

Fuji is swamped with foreign and Japanese tourists in the official hiking season (peak in August), and completely overwhelmed during the Obon holiday week.

By this, I mean you’ll have to wait in line the entire climb and struggle to crop people out of your photos.

Do… climb in the off-season

Photo: Ryuugakusei

Late September and October would be “safest,” with minimal snow, but if you want the trek to yourself, bring the right gear and see if you can get permission from the 5th station to go in November or December.

Obviously, this can be rather dangerous, and I don’t recommend it to anyone who doesn’t have mountaineering experience. Attempting the ascent early, in May or June, can be just as risky with the rains.

If you’re looking for an alternative path to the summit, check out the Fuji Mountain Race.

3. Don’t… drink at the Lost in Translation bar

The film-famous establishment is located at the top of the Park Hyatt in Shinjuku and should be avoided by all but the most fanatical Johansson/Murray fans.

Unless you enjoy paying 4,000 yen (USD40) for a fruit and cheese platter.

Do… enjoy city views elsewhere

The gallery and coffeeshop atop Roppongi Hills immediately comes to mind.

4. Don’t… pay to dress like a geisha

This is an activity many Kyoto guesthouses and hostels offer for the ladies (maybe the men too?).

Photo: FranUlloa

For about 10,000-30,000 yen (USD100-300), depending on services offered and time allowed, your face will be painted pale white, your hair arranged in traditional geisha style, and your body stuffed and folded into a slim silk kimono.

Why? For photos to send home…the chance to see what geisha experience…sometimes you’re allowed to take a short walk outside in full regalia and watch the reactions of startled Japanese men and tourists thinking “Wow! A real geisha! Get the camera!”

Unfortunately, it’s just not worth it; with foreign noses, eyes, and facial features, we simply look ridiculous.

Do… meet the one foreigner who can pull it off

American-born Sayuki, currently working in the Asakusa district of Tokyo: www.sayuki.net

5. Don’t… travel far and wide for cherry blossoms

Imagine you’ve just flown into Tokyo one Sunday in April; those flowering trees that have inspired thousands of haiku and drunken hanami (viewing parties) are now in full bloom and ripe for the watching.

Photo: ajari

Instantly, you think: “I’ve got to get to the best viewing spots in the country, quickly!” Many travelers do this, following the spread of the sakura (cherry blossoms) from the south of Okinawa in February all the way to Hokkaido in May.

If you ask me, it’s not worth the effort.

Do… check out your local sakura

The very best blossoms might be right where you’re at. Every city, town, and prefecture in Japan has a great place to lay down a blanket, crack open an Asahi, and view the pedals falling as gently as snow.

I won’t deny there are some great trees out there, but don’t feel pressured to rush out of town; cherry blossoms bloom for only one week, and even with reliable sakura forecasts, it’s difficult to schedule a holiday precisely around full bloom.

Instead, take advantage of your present surroundings.

6. Don’t… restrict your WWII studies to hiroshima

Japanese World War II history goes way beyond Hiroshima City’s Peace Museum, A-Bomb Dome, and Paper Crane Memorial. By all means, visit each of those, but once you finish…

Do…

* Take the train over to Nagasaki and tour its Peace Park. Did you know Kokura was the original target on August 9th, but cloud cover caused the pilot to divert to Nagasaki?

* Really go off the beaten path with the Kamizake Museum in Chiran, Kagoshima Prefecture. Hundreds of letters are on display, written by pilots as goodbyes to their families.

* Visit the controversial Yasukuni War Memorial shrine in Tokyo, which honors the spirits of those fallen.

7. Don’t… see Japan through emerald glasses

For most foreigners coming to Kyoto, [the cityscape's distasteful modernity] merely whets their appetite to find the old Japan they know must be there. When they finally get to Honen-In Temple and see a monk raking the gravel under maple trees, they say to themselves, “Yes it does exist. I’ve found it!” And their enthusiasm for Kyoto ever after knows no bounds. The minute they walk out of Honen-In they’re back in the jumbly modern city, but it doesn’t impinge on the retina – they’re still looking at the dream.
Dogs and Demons: The Fall of Modern Japan, Alex Kerr (quoting Mason Florence)

Most Japan newbies are on the hunt for “old Japan”: Zen temples with chanting monks, samurai warriors parading the streets.

But the truth is, even though a few pockets of the country have successfully preserved it, that Japan has been fading from existence since the 1960s.

Photo: Shadowgate

Do… question the value of unchecked modernization

At some level we all appreciate the fancy robots and electronics in Akihabara, the high-speed trains, the capsule hotels.

I’m not saying you shouldn’t enjoy your Japanese holiday by reaping all the benefits of modernization. Just be aware of some of the things the country has given up to get to this point.

Community Connection

More from Matador’s destination expert on Japan:

Shima to Shima: Southern Islands of Japan

10 Japanese Customs You Must Know Before a Trip to Japan

Insider’s Guide to Tokyo

Losing My Travel Virginity: Majime

Quidi Vidi Lake / Photo: Matthew McCarthy

Whale sightings

From May to October, the waters of Newfoundland and Labrador teem with the largest population of Humpback whales in the world as they migrate from the Caribbean, feeding on capelin and krill. The Humpback is a baleen whale, meaning they have a thick layer of bristles inside their mouth used to catch food.

Photo: Matthew McCarthy

While Minke, Pilot, Sperm, and even Blue whales are found around Newfoundland, the Humpbacks put on the best show.

Weighing 45 tons, they’re playful and unable to resist a good audience. The giant mammal will often emerge at the sound of an approaching boat, breaching with an impact like a meteor and slapping its tail on the surface.

Other times it’ll flip its tail up like an obscene gesture, indicating it’s diving deeper, and may stay hidden for a while.

You might also see mothers and calves swimming side by side or frolicking in the open sea.

Newfoundland is for the birds

The biggest population of seabirds in North America — 35 million — has chosen Newfoundland as its home. Here, storm-petrels, razorbills, gannets, and even puffins coexist happily.

To see them, head to Bay Bulls, a 25-minute drive from St. John’s on the Irish Loop. Boats launch from here to circle the Gull, Green, Great, and Pee Pee islands, which make up the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve.

260,000 pairs of puffins nest on these islands during the late spring and summer. In fact, 95% of North America’s puffins live around the coast of Newfoundland.

Photo by author

Other than puffins, there are thousands of black-legged kittiwakes and the common murre.

Envisioning it is difficult — listening to the reserve is better.

Approaching the islands by boat, your attention may be focused by the green hills, sharp cliffs, or even Humpback whales passing nearby.

But at some point, you’ll look up to realize the sky is a black mass of movement as the birds hover around the islands like colonies of bats. Once the captain cuts the engine, the pure impact of the noise can be overwhelming.

Just remember not to gaze upward with your mouth open. (Don’t say I didn’t warn you.)

All along the islands, thousands of puffins roost on the rocky shores, and the hills are punctured by holes known as puffin burrows. The birds swoop and dive and skim the top of the water.

Puffins are comical creatures; they’re better swimmers than fliers, with the ability to dive to 200 feet. They mate for life and their awkward, gawky bodies and colourful markings contrast sharply with the other marine birds in the reserve.

Perhaps this is why the puffin has become Newfoundland’s official bird: they’re simply quirky.

Photo by author

Icebergs, straight ahead

The arrival of puffins and Humpbacks also coincides with the appearance of icebergs. Iceberg Alley is the area stretching from the northernmost peninsula of Labrador down to the east coast of Newfoundland.

Here, bergs from Greenland’s 10,000-year-old icecap make their journey and are usually seen during the end of spring, particularly May and June. Their size and shapes vary: tabular, blocky, dome, drydock, wedge, and pinnacle are all words used to describe these masses of ice.

If you want to save some cash and skip the boat tour (see below), icebergs can often be spotted from St. John’s harbour or from the Signal Hill trail. Without leaving the trail, you can get fairly close to a berg when they float near the coast.

Last year, inside the St. John’s Narrows, the biggest iceberg of the season appeared eerily to be suspended in mid air. The horizon disappeared as the misty sea and sky blended into each other, the iceberg floating between.

How to see it all

Photo: Matthew McCarthy

Several boat tours operating during whale season are available from the St. John’s harbour, including Dee Jay Charters and Iceberg Quest.

Both tours offer the chance to see whales and icebergs, but Dee Jay Charters is a less crowded vessel which also journeys around Quidi Vidi Village and Cape Spear, the easternmost point in North America.

In Bay Bulls, boat tours such as Gatherall’s or O’Brien’s combine whale and bird watching. All tours come with good-humoured guides, fiddle music, and sometimes a dinner cruise. Dress warmly as even summers can be frigid in Newfoundland.

Sea kayaking is another option for the adventurous: tour groups like Stan Cook Sea Kayak Adventures get you up close to the Newfoundland coastline and the Humpbacks, if you’re not intimidated by a house-sized mammal belly flopping just ten feet from your paddle.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Matador member Ted Kern has a whale of a story about Swimming with Humpbacks, along with some nice pics.

If you find yourself in St. John’s wondering what to do at night, read Candice’s article at Nights, One Night on George Street — a Newfoundler’s Guide to Getting Smashed in St. John’s.

All photos by author

Any roadtripper planning to travel across Australia’s south between the states of Western Australia (WA) and South Australia (SA) will have to cross the Nullarbor. With a name literally meaning “no trees” (nullus arbor), it’s an apt description of the nearly 1700km featureless stretch along the Eyre Highway, between Norseman in WA and Port Augusta in SA.

It’s one of the world’s most unique roads as it includes the longest straightaway on the planet, 146.6km of curve-less tarmac.

The open road

For a large portion of the traverse you’ll drive by stark, rugged, low-lying bush that dominates in all directions, the only interruption being the odd gum tree struggling for survival.

Despite the harshness of the Nullarbor landscape, it’s home to a surprising amount of fauna. Humorous road signs illustrate warnings for kangaroos, emus, wombats, and camels.

Yes, camels. The Nullarbor is the last place left on Earth that has truly wild camels — up to 100,000 — abandoned after their use in building inland railroads long ago by people who figured they would eventually die off.

Driving the Nullarbor

If you’re in a hurry, the drive can be completed in as little as two (long) days, but it’s much more reasonable to spread it over three.

May as well start your road trip fresh: assuming a west-to-east route, your first free shower is at the CalTex gas station in Norseman. There are more showers along the way, but they come at a cost — around $1 for five minutes.

A good distance to cover on day 1 takes you from Norseman to a free rest area 26km east of Madura where you can get some sleep. It’s a popular stop complete with fire pits and bathrooms.

Southern Right whale breaching

Early on day 2 you’ll cross the border into SA, where scenic attractions begin to present themselves. Signed turnoffs lead to the Bunda Cliffs, a series of jagged rock walls dropping into the ocean. Note that only two of the nine can be accessed these days due to erosion.

Make a pit stop at the famous Nullarbor Roadhouse, where dingoes will beg you to feed them your leftovers (please don’t). Only 14km after that, turn off toward the Head of Bight (entry: $12).

Every May to October, this inlet serves as one of only three breeding grounds for Southern Right Whales.

During the peak, in August/September, visitors can see up to 60 mothers and their calves surfacing as close as 20 meters offshore.

From here, drivers who’ve had enough of the heat and flies can continue to the final free rest area 36km west of Ceduna — the unofficial end of the Nullarbor.

Post-Nullarbor

After completing the drive from west to east, most travelers head on to Adelaide, another 700+ kilometers from Ceduna. The coastal road of the Eyre Peninsula is the scenic route and it also offers a chance to swim with — or just observe — sea lions at Baird Bay and Point Labatt, and to sample world-class oysters at Coffin Bay.

Typical roadhouse scene

Another option for wildlife viewing is the town of Port Lincoln, one of the few places in the world that’s set up for dives with Great Whites.

If you’ve gone the other way (east to west), you can head north to Kalgoorlie or south to Esperance after passing through Norseman. Esperance is a small coastal settlement that has arguably the most beautiful coastline in Australia, which can be seen on their 34km Great Ocean Drive (not to be confused with Victoria’s Great Ocean Road).

Kalgoorlie is gold mine country and has the feeling of a frontier town in Middle America in the early 1800s, only with modern comforts.

7 more tips for crossing the Nullarbor

1. Watch out for scattered road kill along the way and stop driving at dusk when temperatures drop and kangaroos and other animals make their way onto the road.

2. There are plenty of rest areas that double as free campgrounds for those living out of their vehicle. A copy of Camps Australia (a key resource for any roadtripper), outlines all of them. Most roadhouses offer paying accommodation for people unable (or unwilling) to sleep in their car.

110 km/h across the treeless plain

3. Keep in mind, the price of goods goes up as much as the selection plummets, so stock up before setting off.

4. Gasoline can be 20% more expensive than in the cities and the longest stretch without a station is 190km.

5. Take plenty of water — at least 30 liters — in case you break down. Staying hydrated in the heat and doing tasks like washing dishes takes up a lot more than you’d expect.

6. Save your cash for any emergency road trouble — establishments along the way usually accept credit cards.

7. If heading from WA to SA, fresh produce and plants must be consumed or disposed of before Ceduna. Going the opposite way, the checkpoint is in Eucla (and only honey is prohibited).

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

This surreal drive is sure to bring surreal moments. Make sure to add yours to the discussion at Brave New Traveler’s article, What Is Your Most Surreal Travel Experience?

Can parts of the Nullarbor fit into our Photo Essay: The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth?

All photos by author

Most travelers who make their way to the Australian state of Victoria (most commonly Melbourne) eventually find themselves heading to the Great Ocean Road. It’s a stretch of coastline in Victoria’s south that runs around 155 mi/250 km from Torquay to Warrnambool, and which includes the famous 12 Apostles.

What many visitors don’t bother to do though, is to hike any part of the 56 mi/91 km trail that hugs the coastline and gets you right down to the beaches. This is where Mother Nature is, away from the cars and buses, and into the bush with the kangaroos, wallabies, and echidnas.

Lots of options

You don’t have to hike the whole thing. You don’t even have to hike half of it. There are many points of entry and exit which facilitate short and long day hikes, and which many visitors explore while using a B&B or hotel for accommodation.

Shuttles can be hired to drop you off and pick you up at agreed-upon spots and times, and they’ll even do bag drop-off and food delivery (although, many purist hikers take major exception to this practice). We used GOR Shuttle to get taxied back to our van — I personally recommend them.

Tours are also available, if that’s your cup of tea.

For the overnight hikers

The Great Ocean Walk (GOW) starts at the Apollo Bay Visitor Information Centre and ends 90+ kms later at Glenample — within viewing distance of the 12 Apostles. For the hardest of the hardcore, this is a suggested 7-night, 8-day walk.

All the campsites on the walk are hike-in only. To minimise the environmental impact, Parks Victoria keeps the number of overnight hikers low, so each campsite has only eight spots for pitching a tent.

The campgrounds are very basic and have composting toilets, one or two untreated rainwater tanks, and a small 3-sided shelter. Open fires are not allowed and if the fire hazard is extreme, you may not even be allowed to cook with an open flame.

Pick and choose your itinerary

Overnight hikers can opt to do one-night/two-day hikes, two-night/three-day hikes, and so on. There are many starting and ending points but you must obtain a camping permit before spending the night.

For a detailed list of possible itineraries, read this very helpful PDF of FAQs.

A popular itinerary

Probably the most popular stretch of the walk is from Johanna Beach to the end at Glenample. This takes in roughly half of the trail — but from all accounts this is the better half. It is three nights, so is doable over a long weekend, which explains why it was booked solid when my wife and I tried to reserve sites over the Labour Day long weekend (early March in Australia).

Johanna Beach hike-in campsite

But you’re a traveler, and you don’t even know what a weekend is, right? Perfect. We backed it up for one night (starting Thursday instead of Friday) and found ourselves almost completely alone for the whole walk, sharing each campground with only one other couple.

Johanna Beach to Glenample

If you’re driving in, you have two options: park at Johanna Beach and arrange a shuttle at the end to drive you back to your car, or park at the end and get shuttled to Johanna Beach to begin. The latter is better in my opinion, but we were forced to do the former due to time constraints.

The Johanna Beach hike-in campground is around one kilometer from the carpark, although it is all uphill. This is good though as it puts you at the top of the cliff overlooking Joahanna Beach and the coastline beyond. Brilliant view to wake up to the next morning.

Note: the drive-in campground here is free, so if you want to save yourself one night’s costs, keep this in mind.

The remaining two campsites you would use are Ryan’s Den and Devil’s Kitchen, in that order. The campgrounds are spaced around 9 mi/15 km apart from each other, so it is an honest day’s hike, especially packing full gear (including your trash — carry out what you carry in).

It’s an undulating trail as you follow the topography of fingers of land that reach into the sea. The vegetation is colourful and varied, and you’ll even pass some blackberry bushes — make sure to pause and fill up on some berry goodness.

When sunny, the ocean to your left is a rich blue, reminiscent of the Mediterranean but with the wildness of the Oregon Coast.

Things to consider

*There are some stretches of beach walking (e.g. Milanesia and Wreck Beach) that are inaccessible at high tide. Check tide times before you start, otherwise you will have to take the less scenic high routes.

*You must reserve your campsite at least two weeks in advance, and you are only allowed to stay a single night in each one.

The 12 Apostles come into view

*It pays to reserve early. As we were the first to book, we were awarded with site #8 at each campsite. The sites are numbered 1-8 from the entrance, with 8 being the closest to the cliff’s edge, meaning the best views.

*When planning your itinerary, keep in mind that you are only permitted to walk in one direction: from Apollo Bay to Glenample. Booking campsites in the reverse direction is not allowed.

*As stated previously, each campground has rainwater tanks, but they are untreated. Make sure to pack some sort of filtration system or purification tablets. At the very minimum, if you don’t have these, boil the water for 10 minutes.

*I’m a big fan of telescopic hiking sticks as they help to distribute the weight of your pack to your arms too. They can also be extremely handy on tricky downhill sections. Highly recommended.

*The toilet houses are quite nice and one of them even has an ocean view. Toilet paper is provided, but it probably wouldn’t hurt to bring a bit extra, just in case.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

To read my personal account of the walk, check out 4 Nights on the Great Ocean Walk. If you’re just interested in pictures, pop over to my Flickr set.

Trips co-editor Hal Amen witnesses our changing world while Hiking the Chacaltaya Glacier. If you want to get philosophical about the ethics of hiking, read Nature for Sale: The Growing Trend of Wilderness Consumption.

Photo: dbking

See an Active Volcano

The Big Island is home to one of the most active volcanoes in the world, Kilauea, which has erupted a total of 40 times since 1924.

The current ongoing eruption began on January 3, 1983, and wiped out several housing developments. It shows no signs of stopping.

By air

The best viewpoint to appreciate the true power and size of Kilauea is from above. Helicopter tours fly directly over the mouth of the crater itself, allowing you peer down into the violence of steam, sulfur, and lava.

A helicopter tour also affords views of Hawaii’s other natural attractions, such as cliffs, waterfalls, macadamia nut and coffee farms, and rolling green hillsides.

Blue Hawaiian Helicopters offers first-class tours and the highest ratings for safety, employing some of the most experienced pilots. The company’s been featured in National Geographic, and Hollywood film productions like Jurassic Park, The Lost World, and Pearl Harbor have hired its services.

By sea

Photo: PlassPhoto

The lava itself is best seen from the sea, as day turns to night and the newest land in the world begins to glow with an inner fire. The lava flows from the caldera more than 3,700 feet to the coast, where it drops into a steaming ocean.

Just before twilight, spectators gather in the dozens and sometimes hundreds on a nearby cliff to watch the spectacle. But nothing gets you as up close and personal as an ocean-bound vessel.

Captain “Lava Roy” Carvalho is an experienced boat tour operator who has been in business since 2005. He’ll expertly navigate you to within a hundred yards of shore, where you can clearly watch the liquid lavafalls meet the surging sea.

By land

The expense of a helicopter or boat tour isn’t necessary, however, to have a volcano experience. At Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, visitors can view the Kilauea crater from a prime overlook, as well as tour the adjacent Thomas A. Jaggar Museum with its geologic displays, working seismic equipment, and videos of previous eruptions.

Excellent hiking trails run throughout the park, one of which leads through the Thurston Lava Tube, an extinct lava tunnel created by flow from Kilauea.

For the car-equipped, the Chain of Craters Road is a forty-mile drive taking about three hours round-trip, with spectacular vistas of both the volcano and the surrounding rainforest.

Guests can stay overnight at Volcano House Hotel, and campgrounds are also available within the park.

Get on the Water

From its unique selection of beaches — with sand of the white, black, and even green varieties — to its diverse range of water sport activities — surfing, kayaking, sailing, diving, snorkeling, and more — the Big Island delivers for ocean fans.

Photo: Mr.Thomas

Combining some of these into a multi-sport adventure makes for an incredible day.

A popular trip is to kayak the mile and a half across Kealakekua Bay to the Captain Cook Monument, which marks the spot where the first European visitor to the Hawaiian Islands died.

With its sheltered waters, extensive coral reef, and abundance of underwater life, the bay provides superior snorkeling and diving year round. It’s also inaccessible by car, so the only people you’re likely to encounter will be your fellow kayakers. Spinner dolphins and green sea turtles like to hang out here too.

Just off the Kona Coast, a community of the giant manta rays feeds on plankton each night, drawn by the lights that spill over the water from the Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort. The Travel Channel has called a night dive/snorkel with these creatures one of the “Top 10 Things to Do in Your Lifetime.”

The rays are gentle and non-territorial, with no barbs or teeth, simply gliding silently through the waves as if flying (their wingspans can measure up to twelve feet).

The phosphorescence of the plankton gives an eerie bluish-white glow to the graceful rays, their whale-like mouths open wide as they filter feed.

Experience Hawaiian Culture

You don’t come to Hawaii and miss a luau, so head to the above-mentioned Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort, just meters from the manta rays’ feeding spot. It offers dinner and a show called Firenesia every Monday night.

Photo: Paul Kehrer

With great drama and exhilarating dance, the performers demonstrate their skill and grace as you dine on traditional luau dishes at the water’s edge on Keauhou Bay.

The birthplace of Hawaii’s great King Kamehameha III, Keauhou Bay is rich with historical sites.

Just a few miles south, Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park — meaning “place of refuge” — protects 180 acres of ancient homes of the chiefs, royal palaces, and temples. Beautiful at sunset, this sacred place gives visitors an important glimpse into Hawaiian culture.

Further north in Kohala, you can hike through the Valley of the Kings, known as Waipio, where waterfalls rush over the edge of steep green cliffs and drop into the ocean.

Or, walk the 1.5-mile Malama Trail to view the 1,200 petroglyphs found at Puakõ Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve. A total of 3,000 designs have been identified, including paddlers, dancers, animals, and deity symbols, providing a fascinating view into the lives of pre-colonial Hawaiians.

For more, visit Hawaii’s official tourism site, gohawaii.com.

Community Connection

Surfer? Don’t miss Top 10 Surf Spots (for Mortals) in Hawaii. Stargazer? Find out which Hawaii locale made our list of World’s Best Stargazing Destinations.

BNT also has the scoop on Hawaii Car Rentals: How To Score Wheels In Paradise.

Photo: Marcel Masferrer Pascual

For two days (this year October 3-4), Taybeh is host to Palestine’s Oktoberfest — a celebration of Palestinian music, culture, and…well, beer. Taybeh is a Christian village in the West Bank, 35 kms north of Jerusalem and home to the now international Taybeh Brewery.

Wha…who…how?

The Taybeh Brewery was founded in 1994 by Nadim Khoury, who first began brewing his own suds in the late ’70s while studying at Boston’s Hellenic College. Besides the region’s Jewish-Arab conflict, Mr. Khoury also had to contend with the fact that 95% of his potential customers were Muslim, a faith that prohibits alcohol consumption.

Obviously, the quality speaks for itself. Today, Taybeh beer is brewed under license in Germany (it conforms to the purity law 1516) for the European market. In Japan, the brew has a loyal following and you can even find it in Jerusalem on tap at some bars.

Fifth edition

This year’s Okotoberfest is the fifth annual event and one that brings together Israelis and Palestinians as well as international tourists. Tens of thousands partake in the festival, where you can eat local foods and buy products like olive oil, honey, and cakes as well as crafts made by local artisans.

If you’re in Jerusalem or Tel Aviv at the time, you can organize a tour to Taybeh for both days of the festival. Complimentary tours of the brewery are also given. Call ahead if you’re in a large group (02-289-8868).

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For some reading on this conflicted region, check out Waging Peace: Israeli Mother and Palestinian Soldier Unite and Bullets and Backpackers: Political Tourism Hits the West Bank.

If you’re more keen on the traditional Oktoberfest in Munich, make sure you read A First Timer’s Guide to Oktoberfest.

Photo: dragoncillo

Hollywood and the international film industry don’t always confine themselves to a studio or backlot. Filmmakers have scoured the globe to feature big cities, small towns, churches, shopping centers, and natural wonders in their movies.

There’s a reason they picked these places, and both film buff and travelers will enjoy finding out why.

Photo: Maddingue

1. The Third Man (Carol Reed, 1949)

Prater Amusement Park, Vienna, Austria

Orson Welles delivered his famously cynical monologue about how the Swiss invented cuckoo clocks (which is actually untrue — the clocks originated in Germany), underneath the pleasant backdrop of Prater Amusement Park’s ferris wheel. The noir film takes place in Vienna, where many of its exterior scenes were shot on location, a rarity for the industry in 1949.

The Prater Amusement Park is still around today, ferris wheel intact.

2. Vertigo (Alfred Hitchcock, 1958)

Various locations in San Francisco, California

Alfred Hitchcock’s classic mystery is practically an ode to the beautiful and varying landscape of San Francisco. The “master of suspense” filmed several movies in and around the foggy city.

Vertigo showcases many historic landmarks including Mission Dolores, the Legion of Honor Museum, and — perhaps most notably — Fort Point by the Golden Gate Bridge in a pivotal scene. Hitchcock said he often used Coit Tower in the background as a phallic symbol.

Photo: jaybergesen

3. Lost in Translation (Sofia Coppola, 2003)

Park Hyatt Hotel in the Shinjuku Park Tower, Tokyo, Japan

The Park Hyatt in Tokyo served as the hotel for Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson in the film. The New York Bar, situated on the 52nd floor, is featured in the movie, and you can order a “Sofia” cocktail here in honor of the Lost in Translation director.

All other locations and businesses mentioned throughout the movie are real and can be found using a map in the Japanese-edition DVD.

4. Popeye (Robert Altman, 1980)

Popeye Village, Anchor Bay, Malta

Robert Altman’s interpretation of the 1930s comic strip bombed at the box office but at least the movie’s set proved to be a hit with tourists. The Mediterranean island of Malta was chosen to be the fictional sailor’s community due to its proximity to water and open space for construction.

Photo: luigi969

The set, made up of a manmade breakwater and ramshackle houses, was named “Popeye Village” after production wrapped, and was turned into a mini-theme park. Geared toward families, there are shows and boat rides daily. You can even get your picture taken with Popeye and Olive Oyl.

5. La Dolce Vita (Federico Fellini, 1960)

Trevi Fountain, Rome, Italy

The Trevi Fountain was already one of the most popular tourist destinations in Rome, and it was made even more iconic due to the images of Italian film star Marcello Mastroianni and Swedish model Anita Ekberg frolicking in the water late at night. It is estimated that visitors toss more than 3,000 € in coins into the fountain each day.

6. Breakfast at Tiffany’s (Blake Edwards, 1961)

Tiffany & Company, New York City, New York

You can’t have Breakfast at Tiffany’s without the Tiffany’s. Luckily, director Blake Edwards received permission from the legendary jewelry house to shoot several interior scenes inside the Manhattan flagship store, as well as the famous opening sequence outside the storefront with an elegant Audrey Hepburn nibbling on pastries.

Photo: Hicham Souilmi

7. The Star Wars trilogy

Hotel Sidi Driss, Matmata, Tunisia

Tatooine isn’t really part of a galaxy far, far away. The scenes featuring Luke Skywalker’s home planet were actually filmed in the Tunisian desert.

Skywalker’s house was shot at the Hotel Sidi Driss, a traditional troglodytic underground building in Matmata. Many of the original set pieces built by director George Lucas’s crew remain in the hotel today.

8. Rocky (John G. Avildsen, 1976)

Steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

It’s hard to look at these 72 steps and not imagine Sylvester Stallone as Rocky Balboa running up to the top, pumping his fists into the air with triumph. If you visit, you’ll likely see tourists attempting to do the same while humming “Gonna Fly Now.”

Photo: Adam Baker

A bronze statue created for Rocky III can now be found at the bottom of the steps outside of the museum. There’s actually art in the Philadelphia Museum of Art, so check that out too!

9. The Harry Potter series

Various locations in England

Several tour companies in England have capitalized on the success of the Harry Potter film franchise, offering fans the chance to see locations used in the series. You can do it on your own, though.

In Oxford, take a trip to Christ Church College at Oxford University which stood in as the Hogwarts Great Hall (with the help of some digital enhancement). The Gloucester Cathedral in Gloucester was used for other interior shots at Hogwarts.

In Yorskshire, The Goathland Rail Station served as the Hogsmeade Station for Harry’s fellow students of wizardry. These are just a few suggestions for you Potter-philes out there.

10. The Lord of the Rings series

Various locations in New Zealand

Like Harry Potter, the Lord of the Rings movie series has spawned many specialized tours for fans to see the vast, lush Middle Earth.

New Zealand’s Department of Conservation has compiled a list of locations used in the films along with scene details and their GPS coordinates, making it easy for you to see the cinematic land of the Hobbits without the aid of a tour company.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re into movies, you’ll enjoy these two philosophical pieces: The Travel Wisdom of Bruce Lee and What Tyler Durden’s Philosophy Teaches Us About Travel.

Photo: Johan Larsson

Exploring the windy roads and rolling hills of France’s countryside in Cognac is a great trip in itself, but add some time with the beverage of royalty and you’ve got a unique experience.

Here are some things to do while in the region:

Photo: mayhem2006

Sleep in a chateau

The Cognac region has no shortage of accommodation options. If you’re looking for something in the center of town, check out the Hotel Francois.

For more atmosphere, the area is home to countless chateaus. A step above a B&B, chateaus are reasonably priced at around 100 € per night. Two worth a look are Chateau de L’Yeuse — where you can sip tea on a terrace while overlooking the hills — and Chateau Saint Martial, with private jacuzzis in the rooms.

Stroll through the town

The Charente River gives the towns of Cognac and Jarnac their quaint riverside feel. While you can easily spend all your time in the cafes and shops, there is much more. The Musee des arts du Cognac has a history of the town and its famous brandy, as well as art collections donated by local families.

A walk through Vieux Cognac and the town’s walls at the Chateau and Saint-Jacques Gates will take you back in time.

To rest your feet, hop on the local tram. The Tourist and Information Office provides tickets, maps, and walking tour information.

Photo: JarnaQuais

With the Atlantic Ocean only a two-hour drive away (the beach town of La Rochelle is highly recommended if you have time), seafood is available in abundance. Petits gris à la charentaise (snails) is a local delicacy, as is cognac-flavored Bavarian cream.

Learn about cognac

The BNIC (Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac) is an organization of 5,000 cognac merchants from the region, where 96% of the world’s cognac is produced.

Six areas are distinguished by their soil: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. When it was discovered the grapes in these areas were not suitable for fine wine, brandy was born. And when the distillers began to blend the brandy at different stages, cognac was created.

Although the basic process is simple, it is time consuming. It all begins with one litre of wine. After aging for 20 years, two-thirds is left. After an additional 30 years, half a litre remains. 100 years on you have just 10% of the original, and this is known as eau-de-vie (water of life) — the principal ingredient of cognac.

The three major types — VS – Very Special; VSOP – Very Superior Old Pale; and Napoleon XO – Extra Old — come from the differences in the process and how the liquids are blended.

The major players

Eighty percent of the world’s cognac comes from just four distilleries: Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin, and Courvoisier. The French government sets the guidelines and regulates the use of pesticides and harvesting times.

While Hennessy has its own vineyards, they’re more for testing purposes as the company uses nearly 2,000 growers to make their cognac. Since Irishman Richard Hennessy began his own company in the early 1700s, Hennessy has remained a family business, joining Moet & Chandon Champagne in 1971 to form Moet Hennessy.

Photo: jessicafm

Jean Martell, who came from the island of Jersey, set up his company in 1715, making Martell the oldest of the cognac producers. On the grounds of the distillery is the Founder’s House, open to visitors and full of old documents and photos dating back to Jean Martell’s early days.

Remy Martin has been making cognac since 1724 and today produces 1.8 million cases per year. They also established the house of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne 60 years later. In the Cognac region, they operate Les Rendez-vous Remy Martin, where visitors can create packages that include everything from a picnic on the grounds to personalized tours and stays.

The House of Courvoisier is one of the younger cognac companies, only dating back to the 19th century, when Emmanuel Courvoisier and partner Louis Gallois turned their wine and spirit company in Bercy into a cognac dynasty, all thanks to a man named Napoleon. It was Napoleon III who labeled Courvoisier the “Official Supplier to the Imperial Court.”

Sample the drink

All of the major cognac companies offer distillery tours and tastings. Tours can also be arranged for some of the smaller cognac vineyards.

Destinations

Community Connection to France

Although most people will tell you that cognac should be drunk neat, 70% of it is used in mixed drinks. The BNIC lists a few interesting choices including Cognac Summit (lime juice, ginger, VSOP cognac, lemonade, and cucumber) and Pink Love (VSOP cognac, raspberry liquor, and champagne).

Getting there

There are flights within Europe to Poitiers and La Rochelle (both under two hours away by car) through Ryan Air. From Paris, it’s about a five-hour drive to the Cognac region.

The three-hour highspeed TGV train ride from Paris’ Montparnasse station (easily accessible from downtown or Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports) to Angouleme puts you just 30 minutes from downtown Cognac.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

While in France, don’t waste your money on the Evian. Drinking tap water is on the rise in the country.

If you’re going to be in Paris as well, Paris, France By the Numbers can give you unique insight on the City of Lights.

Photo: advertisingelyse

If the Mall of America — a place that brags of 20,000 parking spots and a dedicated drop-off/pick-up area for motor coaches — doesn’t turn your crank, here are 8 different ways to spend your time.

Lake Calhoun / Photo: twodolla

1. Head to the lakes

Why go to an indoor water park when you’re in the city of lakes? Take your pick of several among the Chain of Lakes.

The largest is Lake Calhoun, a favorite of young people looking to lay on the beaches, bike, roller blade, or jog along the trails that encircle it. Get on the water for some canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfing.

2. Go for a bike ride

Biking is easy in this relatively flat city, and many streets have designated cycling lanes. The most scenic routes will take you over and along the Mississippi River.

Ride down Minnehaha Avenue to get to Minnehaha Falls Park, home of the waterfall that inspired Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s “The Song of Hiawatha.”

James J. Hill House / Photo: puroticorico

3. Stroll along Summit Avenue

Garrison Keillor once remarked:

The difference between Minneapolis and St. Paul is the difference between pumpernickel and Wonder Bread.

St. Paul — the state capital — may not have the cultural venues of its more cosmopolitan neighbor, but perhaps Keillor missed the grand stately houses that line Summit Ave. Three residences of note are the Governor’s mansion, F. Scott Fitzgerald’s birthplace, and the James J. Hill House.

4. Go to the theater

The Twin Cities’ theater scene may not compare with Broadway, but Minneapolis’s landmark Guthrie Theater puts on high-quality classic and original productions. If you’re in town this fall, a national engagement of Little House on the Prairie will begin at the Ordway Theatre in St. Paul, with Melissa Gilbert playing Ma.

5. Eat

The Twin Cities aren’t strictly meat-and-potatoes territory and, these days, ethnic food isn’t limited to lutefisk. Although an overwhelmingly white metropolis less than 20 years ago, recent immigration from Southeast Asia, East Africa, and Latin America has added an international array of cuisines to the city’s food scene.

Cafe Latte / Photo: tboard

A global smorgasboard of eating options is available at the Midtown Global Market and along Eat Street, between Grant and 29th Streets.

For more upscale dining and nightlife, head to the Warehouse District near downtown, where your options include a number of sushi joints, an organic cafe, and Pizza Luce, considered to have the best pizza in town. Dessert lovers shouldn’t miss the decadent cakes at Cafe Latte on Grand Ave. in St. Paul.

6. Shop on Grand Avenue

OK, so you will probably break down and need your shopping fix. Grand Ave. in St. Paul is home to numerous independent shops and boutiques, as well as some chain stores.

7. Visit an art gallery or museum

Minneapolis is home to several impressive art collections.

Photo: A.M. Kuchling

The Minneapolis Institute of Arts features one of the most extensive collections of world art in the Midwest, while the Walker Art Center is considered one of the top modern art museums in the country. Across the street from the latter is the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, where you will find Claes Oldenburg’s Spoonbridge and Cherry.

If history is more your thing, the Minnesota History Center in St. Paul is home to changing exhibits about the state’s past. Science geeks will enjoy the Science Museum of Minnesota, which overlooks the Mississippi River and has an exhibit dedicated to it.

8. Attend a fair

State and county fairs are a Minnesota tradition. Each summer, Minnesota’s counties hold their own fairs. The main event is the Minnesota State Fair, which is running from August 27 to September 7 this year.

Known as the “Minnesota State Get-Together,” it’s the event where Minnesotans gather to celebrate their agricultural heritage and show off livestock, like a scene straight out of Charlotte’s Web. Disregard any healthy eating habits you may be following — standard Minnesotan fair food is deep fried and comes on a stick.

Community Connection

If you’re looking to combine a trip to the Minnesota State Fair with a visit to another Midwest city, make sure to check out Chicago on a Budget.

Photo: kennymatic

Community Connection

If trains turn you on, make sure to check out these Matador titles:

6 Tips For Pain-Free Train Travel

Trans Siberian Sidetrips: How to Break Your Train Ride

From Mumbai to Northern India by Train

Photo: diametrik

Walking the concrete canyons of Manhattan, it’s easy to forget you’re on an island. And with multi-lane highways encircling the borough, it can be a challenge to enjoy the scenery and history of New York Harbor — unless you take to the water.

The iconic orange Staten Island Ferry isn’t the only way. Here are seven more.

Photo: bettyx1138

1. Governors Island

This patch of green is just a seven minute ferry ride from the southernmost tip of Manhattan and has been a native American fishing ground, U.S. Coast Guard base, site of a meeting between Reagan and Gorbachev and, now, a public park and National Monument administered by the National Park Service.

In addition to military history and blissful quiet — only a handful of vehicles are allowed on Governors Island — you’ll also find special events throughout the season, which this year runs until October 11. The best part about the island? The ferry and admission are free!

2. Statue of Liberty

On July 4, the famed statue’s crown was re-opened to tourists, having been closed since the September 11 attacks. While getting tickets for the 146-step climb is a necessity, it also requires some advance planning, as demand since the opening has been high.

A check on July 15 didn’t turn up space until mid-October. Admission: $12.

3. Water Taxi Beach

New York’s original fake beach is across the East River from Manhattan and, like so many things in Queens, is all about food and drink. Viewing the sunset over the New York skyline is much better with a burger in one hand and a beer in the other.

Water Taxi Beach / Photo: robotpolisher

On Fridays in July and August, you can even score a special BBQ chicken spread. Bring friends. Depending on when you go, ferries to Water Taxi Beach are $4.50, $20 (for a full-day ferry pass) or free.

4. Riverside Park

While most of Manhattan is ringed by highways, urban planner Frederick Law Olmsted designed this section of the Upper West Side to work with the water. Riverside Park stretches from 72nd to 158th Street, drawing bikers, joggers and, boat buffs.

The 79th Street Boat Basin is home to skippers smart enough to avoid NYC rents by living aboard.

5. City Island

Far from the hustle of New York but still part of the city, this New England-y enclave is the last thing you’d think of as metropolitan. But it’s worth the long haul to gorge on seafood while watching yachts cruise by. Take the no. 6 train and then the Bx29 bus to get there.

Photo: calamity_sal

Johnny’s Reef Restaurant at the south of the island has an old-school vibe that makes for great photos…and piles of seafood, of course. Visiting is free, but the fried clams will cost you.

6. Free Kayaking

Sporty locals have been passing around a secret for years: The New York City Downtown Boathouse will loan you a kayak and let you paddle around the Hudson for free. More serious boaters might score a spot on a three-hour tour, but since you can’t sign up ahead of time, availability depends on how many others show up.

7. Sailing school

If the above six seem too easy for you, the Manhattan Sailing School offers ASA basic keelboat certification over three days out of the North Cove in Battery Park City.

You’ll spend the first evening learning what makes sailboats go and the next two days trimming jibs and taking the helm of a J/24 with three other students and an instructor. Reservations are essential. $690.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For some inspiration for number 7 above, have a read of Jessica Watson, 16, Youngest Person to Sail Around the World Solo.

Need a mini-break from the Big Apple? Here are the 5 Best Hudson River Valley Day Trips.

If you like the water, Matador’s got a slew of great info in these articles: Boating Big Sky: Montana’s Classic River Trips and Take Me to the River: 8 Simple Steps for Getting into Whitewater Paddling.

The Kimberley / Photo: Flemming Bo Jensen

Most travelers that come to Australia only stick to the east: Melbourne, Sydney, the Gold Coast, Brisbane. If you want to experience the real Australia, head 4000 kilometers west to the most isolated places on the continent.

Western Australia is five times the area of Texas, but is home to just 2.2 million people. That’s a lot of room to move. So hire a 4WD, pick up a cheap Ford wagon, or climb aboard one of the hop-on-hop-off buses running up and down the coast.

Working south to north, here are 10 spots you should hit:

1. Esperance

This windy coastal town is home to some of the whitest beaches in the world. The surrounding national parks offer miles of coastline to explore on foot or by 4WD. At this isolated former whaling outpost, the Indian and Southern Oceans crash with each other. The numerous uninhabited islands just offshore make a fine place to play pirates. Or just go fishing.

Photo: robertpaulyoung

2. Margaret River

Likened to Byron Bay (but with less hippies) the natural appeal of “Margs” soon led to its gentrification. But even the weekend influx of lawyers in Saabs can’t detract from the region’s charm. Minutes from town, old growth karri forests hide countless vineyards which consistently produce world-class wines, especially sauvignon blancs and cab savs.

On the coast, try your hand at finding some roaring surfbreaks, hidden away down dirt tracks. If time is not on your side, Margaret’s Main Break offers some of the most accessible — and biggest — waves around.

3. Fremantle

This port city underwent a major facelift prior to the 1987 America’s Cup, but more than two decades later, “Freo” retains much of its Mediterranean magic. Grab an espresso on The Strip and you could be in any European seaside town — if you can ignore the teenagers in their V8s lapping the boulevard, that is.

Check out the famous markets or immerse yourself in Australian culture and watch local footy team, the Dockers.

Photo: Flemming Bo Jensen

4. Perth

Set on the banks of the sparkling Swan River, Western Australia’s capital is pleasant and offers a fine base to launch your adventures from. Groovy enclaves such as Subiaco and Leederville offer cool shops, cafes, and bars, while the beaches just 15 minutes from the city are as good as you’ll find anywhere.

Leighton, Cottesloe, and Scarborough have the shimmering sands and blue-green Indian Ocean to match any tropical island.

Kings Park is the spot to wander among towering lemon gums while looking down on the sprawling Swan.

5. Rottnest

Just a ferry ride from Perth but worlds apart. Cars are banned so hop on your bike and hit the bays for snorkeling, fishing, surfing, or lazing about. Befriend a quokka — the famous wallabies (like a pint-sized kangaroo) found all over. Dutch explorers mistook the little buggers for rats, hence the name ‘Rat’s Nest.’

Camp or stay in self-contained bungalows and don’t miss the Quokka Arms — the island’s only pub with views of the city back across Cockburn Sound.

6. Kalbarri

Steep river canyons wind their way to the coast near this quiet crayfishing town where the sheer cliffs provide a perfect vantage point for whale and dolphin watching. Fish the rivermouth, visit Finlay’s fish barbecue, or try to sneak in a few waves with the locals at one of the world’s heaviest left-hand reef ledges.

Photo: rggoldie

7. Monkey Mia

Ever wanted to pet a dolphin? Here’s your chance. Generations of dolphins have been visiting this remote beach since the 1960s when a local fisherman began feeding them each day. The calm, crystal waters of Shark Bay make great conditions to spot these gentles creatures cruising the shallows, and Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort on the beachfront has accommodations to suit every budget.

8. Ningaloo

Ningaloo is the jewel of the North West. Stretching for more than 250km along the coast, it’s one of the largest fringing reefs in the world and the most accessible, coming to within 100 meters of the coast at certain points. From Coral Bay, through North West Cape, to Exmouth, the reef offers incredible fishing, snorkeling, surfing, and diving in warm water all year round.

Step off the beach into turquoise waters to see turtles, whale sharks, manta rays, and more.

9. Broome

Camels on Cable Beach / Photo: Flemming Bo Jensen

Now you’re entering the tropics proper. Long a favourite of backpackers and those fleeing the winter chill, this town is lazy and sun-drenched. Nobody hurries — they’re all on ‘Broometime.’

Do some nude sunbathing or just enjoy the sunset view at the famous Cable Beach, down a mango beer at Matso’s microbrewery, visit a pearl farm…there’s plenty to do.

North of town, the aboriginal-run Kooljaman camp at Cape Leveque is worth the drive. Palm-frond huts and 5-star safari tents overlook a typically stunning West Oz beachscape.

10. The Kimberley

Photo: Flemming Bo Jensen

The last frontier of the West, this is where things get wild. 4WD vehicles are essential for exploring this ancient land of hidden waterfalls, ochre cliffs, and indigenous rock art. Derby marks the start of the Gibb River Road: 600km of bone-jarring track through the heart of the rugged north. If you make it through, be sure to pop into El Questro, a million-acre former cattle ranch, now turned wilderness park.

With extra time, worthwhile detours are the national parks of Karijini and Millstream-Chichester in Western Austrlalia’s Pilbara region. Closer to Perth, the Pinnacles — a spooky landscape of petrified trees in the desert — also warrants your consideration.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Interested in visiting Down Under but aren’t sure how you can pull it off financially? Check out Matador’s Contest Alert: Win a Trip to Australia.

For a broader look on what there is to see and do in this part of the world, click over to 15 Things You Can’t Miss in Australia and Top 10 Places to Study in New Zealand and Australia.

Photo: jpeirera_net

India is a popular summer destination for European vacationers, monsoon lovers, and travelers who prefer to go against the grain. There are lots of good reasons for visiting India in the summer: the profusion of festivals, Himalayan destinations inaccessible in winter, empty tourist attractions, cheaper airfares, and slashed accommodation rates, to name a few.

If this sounds like your cup of tea, here are 11 activities to keep you busy in the summer:

1. Eat mangoes

Early summer, before the monsoon arrives, is the hottest time of year in India. The only relief comes from this sweet and succulent fruit, revered the country over.

Photo: wildxplorer

In India, the mango is the “king of fruit.” April is when you’ll first see them in the markets and restaurants. While there are many varieties, the Alphonso is hailed as the “king of kings,” and its seasonal appearance makes the news.

2. Hike in Ladakh

In winter, the Ladakh region of India’s remote northern state is a cold, lonely, and forbidding mountain kingdom. But come summer, flowers bloom and the tourists return to admire the barren, lunar-like landscapes and traditional Indian, Tibetan, and Central Asian cultures.

Leh, the region’s capital, has some of the best treks in India. The very accessible palace and royal monastery, Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, is a great place to watch the sun rise over the Himalayas. The season’s short, though, and by mid-September it’s all over for another year.

3. Chill at a hill station

During the reign of the British Raj, the colonial rulers retreated to hill stations to escape the incendiary heat of the plains. Shimla, in the modern state of Himachal Pradesh, was the “Queen of Hill Stations.” It was from this small mountaintop town that the British ruled fully one-fifth of humanity.

Today, visitors to Shimla enjoy the laid-back vibe, Raj-era buildings, and spectacular views of the Himalayas from the The Mall — a ridge-top pedestrian-only thoroughfare that was once off-limits to Indians. Don’t miss high tea at the elegant, century-old Oberoi Cecil Hotel. Shimla is a taste of “ye olde England” in the Himalayas.

Photo: mohit.ed

4. Sing in the rain

Monsoon is a special time of year in India. The summer rains bring welcome relief from the scorching heat of early summer and they are a symbol of fertility, vigour, and joyful abandon. Bollywood movie watchers know that when rain showers soak the hero and heroine, it’s shorthand for the lovemaking they can’t show on screen.

The southwest monsoon is expected to arrive in the southern state of Kerala each year on June 1, and it spends the next few months sweeping north across the subcontinent, lightening the hearts of farmers, children, lovers, and just about everyone else.

5. Experience bliss

Summer monsoon season is the best time for Ayurvedic treatment in India. Ayurveda, which means “science of life,” is the ancient system of traditional Indian health care that seeks to restore health through the use of diet, herbs, lifestyle advice, cleansing techniques, and — primarily — bliss-inducing oil massages.

The languid dampness opens the pores and makes the body more receptive to the medicated oils. Kerala, in southern India, is a tropical paradise on the Arabian Sea, and the best place for Ayurvedic treatment in India. Ayurvedic resorts, from the rustic to the luxurious, line the shores between white sand beaches and palm tree forests and offer a relaxing vacation as well as authentic treatments.

Photo: lylevincent

6. Find the source of the Ganges

The Ganges River – known in India as Ganga Mata – is the lifeline of the country and its most sacred river. One-tenth of humanity depends on its bounty for their livelihood. It cascades out of the high Himalayas in northern India, and finding its source – or sources – is a major pilgrimage activity every summer after the snows melt and the roads and villages become accessible (April to November).

The pilgrimage is called Char Dham, which means four sacred places, and bus tours from Rishikesh in Uttaranchal state can take you to all four: Badrinath, Kedarnath, Yamunotri, and Gangotri.

7. Get soaked with Ganesh

One of the biggest festivals in Maharashtra state takes place at the end of summer. It’s called Ganesh Chaturthi, and while it’s celebrated throughout India, no one does it quite like Mumbai.

For 10 days, Mumbaikars celebrate by holding cultural and social programs, eating sweets, and worshiping the popular elephant-headed god. On the 11th day — his birthday — an enormous clay figure of Ganesh is paraded through the streets of Mumbai before being immersed in the Arabian Sea. The main parade, to Chowpatty Beach, is accompanied by thousands of celebrants dancing and singing in the streets. All are welcome to join the fun.

Photo: Matt Murph

8. Sip tea in Darjeeling

A popular hill station perched high in the Himalayas on the northern edge of West Bengal, Darjeeling also gives its name to the world’s best tea. In the 19th century, Darjeeling was the summer destination for the British in Calcutta (then the capital of colonial India).

Though Darjeeling is lashed by the summer monsoon, it still offers an escape from the heat of lower-lying regions. Enjoy the Victorian-era holiday atmosphere, views of some of the world’s highest mountains, touring the surrounding tea gardens, and Tibetan culture. Take the poignantly slow Toy Train from Siliguri and you will find yourself in tune with Darjeeling’s timeless appeal.

9. Run with the chariots

The mid-summer Chariot Festival in Puri, Orissa, attracts millions of devotees and tourists each year, who take part in an enormous procession as three mammoth, dazzling wood chariots are pulled through the streets.

Photo: mckaysavage

It’s one of the biggest festivals in India — so big, it inspired the word “juggernaut.” The word was coined after 19th-century British spectators saw people, mad with devotion, throw themselves under the giant wheels of the Lord Jagannath’s chariot.

10. Watch snake boats compete

The Onam Festival of late August celebrates the tropical southern state’s rich cultural heritage when everything is fresh and radiant. During the 10-day festival, Kerala puts on a display of games and sports, traditional art forms, drama, and classical music.

There’s also shopping at the many festival bazaars that spring up and a Grand Feast. But the highlight is the Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race, the biggest snake boat race in the world.

11. Celebrate Krishna’s birthday

Blue-skinned Krishna is one of Hinduism’s most important and beloved gods. He can be depicted as a cherubic baby, flute-playing lad, devoted lover — alongside his consort Radha — or as Arjuna’s charioteer during the epic battle of the Mahabharata (the basis of the Hindu bible, the Bhagavad Gita).

Inspiring fervent devotion among his followers, his mid-summer birthday (this year on August 14) is called Janmashtami. It is celebrated all across the country, but nowhere more so than in his birthplace, Mathura, Uttar Pradesh. The fun includes rituals, feasting, devotional singing, plays that depict scenes from his action-packed life, and human pyramids — formed to reach a high-hanging pot of butter, Krishna’s weakness.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Destinations

Community Connection to India

Prior to boarding that flight to India, make sure you familiarize yourself with the 10 Indian Customs to Know Before Visiting India.

We’ve also published a great essay called From Mumbai to Northern India by Train which should provide some inspiration to visit this colorful nation.

For a visual account of one person’s volunteering efforts in India, check out our Photo Essay: Saving Indian Street Kids.

Also of interest is the story behind India’s Pink Chaddi Campaign.

Photo: ahisgett

Tourists…in Iraq?

In case you haven’t heard, three American travelers were recently detained in Iran after inadvertently crossing the border during a hike in northern Iraq.

Photo: jamesdale10

Apart from sparking some intense debate here on Matador about what the appropriate reaction should be, it’s caused many to ask the obvious question: “Why would anyone willingly travel to Iraq?”

As it turns out, the question isn’t quite as obvious as you’d think.

The trio’s companion explains in a revealing piece in The Nation that the group’s destination — the northern autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan — “is actually very beautiful and quite safe.”

Since the Kurds gained autonomy in 1992, no American has ever been harmed there. The city of Sulaimania is increasingly popular with tourists, and a friend of ours told us it was the most beautiful area he’d ever seen.

But the story doesn’t end there. An announcement was made that Gulf Air is scheduled to start five-times-weekly flights from Bahrain to Baghdad on September 1. Tourists welcome.

And back in May, you may remember that Trips reported on the World’s Newest Tourist Attraction: Saddam’s Babylon Palace.

The Babylon Story

Which brings us to what, in a perfect world, would be the country’s (if not the region’s) #1 tourist draw: the ruins of Babylon. This mythical city sat at the heart of one of the earliest civilizations on Earth, and its famed hanging gardens were one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Unfortunately, time has not been as kind to the physical site as it has to its reputation. A BBC piece from last month details a tragic recent history:

Photo: Rictor Norton & David Allen

* Nineteenth-century European archaeologists swiped countless relics, many of which are now housed proudly in the world’s most famous museums.

* Under Saddam, half-assed and amateur renovations were undertaken, which resulted in more damage than restoration. It was these actions that prompted Unesco to refuse to grant the site World Heritage status, something that might have helped prevent at least some of the destruction that was to come.

* In 2003 and 2004, U.S. forces set up camp in the ruins, digging trenches, bulldozing, and using fragile stone-paved pathways as tank streets.

* The looting that began during America’s tenure continues today.

Apparently, Unesco is now rushing to reverse their decision and offer Babylon some World Heritage protection. But the sad truth is, it might be too late.

Have you been to Babylon? We’d love to see an on-the-ground report in the comments.

Community Connection

Those planning to be on that inaugural Gulf Air flight into Baghdad should make sure to read How To Travel To Iraq Without Getting Killed.

If, on the other hand, you wouldn’t be caught dead (ahem) touristing Iraq, keep an open mind and peruse 5 Compelling Reasons To Visit Banned Countries.

Photo: VinceHuang

Mt. Sinai, Egypt

To catch the sunrise on Mt. Sinai, travelers first climb a rocky trail from 2:30 to 5am, alongside Bedouin tribesmen and their camels. Then they sit and wait for the dawn’s rays to pierce the darkness and illuminate a jagged, lunar-like landscape.

The sensation of being on Mt. Sinai as the sun appears in the morning sky is impossible to forget. Even if you’re not religious, you can envision Moses having a divine experience here.

After trekking back downhill, stop at St. Catherine’s Monastery to see a direct descendant of the Bible’s burning bush.

Photo: paolo bosonin

Ganges River, Varanasi, India

Varanasi is believed to be one of the oldest continually inhabited city in the world, with a past that stretches back 3,000 years.

Trudge its narrow, dirty streets in the predawn hours before emerging atop one of the ghats that line the sacred Ganges River to the sight of a vibrant sunrise and Hindu pilgrims bathing and praying at the water’s edge.

Alternatively, take in the scene from a rowboat that ferries visitors up and down the river.

Jimbaran Beach, Bali, Indonesia

Many Balinese beaches see lovely sunsets, but Jimbaran is unique because of the dozens of seafood shacks that line the sands and only open for dinner.

Each restaurant has chests of ice filled with freshly caught fish, from snapper and grouper to prawns and crabs. Once diners make a selection, the fish are cleaned, grilled, and served at a seaside table.

As you eat, you can sink your toes into the sand, listen to the waves, and watch as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean. Afterwards, relax with a drink as the beach glows with the light of hundreds of candles, lit by the restaurants.

Photo: colinjackson1972

Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya

Serengeti National Park in Tanzania works too, as the wildebeest visit both during their annual migration from July to October. Regardless of the country, the scenery is fabulous and you can combine sunset viewing with a safari experience.

Imagine spending late afternoon on a game drive, watching elephants, giraffes, gazelles, lions, and wildebeest, and then topping off the day with a deep orange sunset.

Phnom Bakheng temple, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Phnom Bakheng is a Buddhist temple built in the late 9th century on a hillside outside what is now Siem Reap. Visitors to the Angkor Archaeological Park are enticed to the temple ruins for its sunset views.

The top of Bakheng is accessible via a steep staircase, and from there you can look down on the sacred site of Angkor Wat and out across the forested expanse of northern Cambodia as the sun sets in a splash of color.

Photo: IanPhilipMiller

Oia, Santorini, Greece

Every day, in late afternoon, travelers make their way to the western edge of the Greek island of Santorini.

There, in the small town of Oia, amidst whitewashed homes perched on the edge of a caldera, they stand along the road and sit with legs dangling from walls, waiting for the sun to disappear beneath the waves of the Aegean Sea.

The intense light of the Aegean produces a particularly dramatic sunset. So dramatic, in fact, that the tourist crowd invariably breaks out in applause.

Cape Town, South Africa

Often hailed as one of the world’s most beautiful cities, Cape Town sits at the southwestern edge of Africa, backed by the flat-topped 3,500ft peak of Table Mountain.

For an extraordinary sunset experience, book a ride with one of the local boat companies that offer late-afternoon cruises. You’ll ply the waters near the meeting point of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, gaze back at the majestic Table, and perhaps sip a glass of wine as the sun dips below the horizon.

Photo: ewen and donabel

Haleakala Volcano, Maui, Hawaii

On the island of Maui, you can drive from sea level up to 10,000 feet in about two hours and end your journey near the peak of Haleakala. More than a million people make this journey annually, many of them in the predawn hours so they can watch the sun rise over Haleakala National Park.

Once it does, you can hike into Haleakala Crater. Or, hop a van up to the peak and mountain bike back down.

Community Connection

Where’s your ideal spot for watching the sun do its thing? Share it with your fellow travelers by creating your very own Matador profile.

When in Western Europe, make sure to check out the region’s 5 Best “From-a-Van” Sunsets.

And of course there’s plenty to do between sunrise and sunset. To take advantage of the day to its fullest, visit one of America’s 8 Sunniest Cities.

Photo: Guwashi999

As ambiguous as we may feel over the term “flashpacker,” it’s hard to deny the truth that technology is becoming an ever more important element of travel. Sad as it sounds, without a laptop and hostel wifi, I wouldn’t be able to travel at all.

Trips doesn’t usually take its cues from AskMen.com, but we did notice when they recently published a list of the world’s top 10 tech cities. Factors taken into consideration included the amount of R&D undertaken by national companies, the prevalence of free wifi spots in the country, and the surely difficult to quantify “techiness” of its citizens.

Photo: e-magic

Here’s what they came up with:

1. Tokyo
2. Seoul
3. Singapore
4. Hong Kong
5. San Francisco Bay Area
6. Seattle
7. Helsinki
8. Bangalore
9. Munich
10. Tel Aviv

I can vouch for Seoul, even though I haven’t been back since wifi went big. It’s the home of Samsung and LG, after all, not to mention that 95% of the male population age 2-30 spend their waking hours battling each other in World of Warcraft.

One notable omission would have to be Taipei, where many Gadgets Bonafide Flashpackers Should Carry are manufactured. A few commenters also wondered why the Bay Area wasn’t higher up the list, being the birthplace of “tech” and all.

What do you think? Have you traveled to a city that struck you as particularly techy? How big a role does technology play in your travels? Indulge inquiring minds by leaving a comment below.

Community Connection

Still confused about what exactly a flashpacker is? Read about Matador Nights editor Tom Gates’ identity crisis in From a Flashpacker to a Backpacker, take 2.

Photo above: kevindooley, Feature photo: WhatCouldPossiblyGoWrong

Skip the Sears Tower

Chicago’s most iconic building, the Sears Tower, is overrated. Even with the addition of the new glass-bottomed balconies, $15 is a bit much to pay for a view.

Instead, head to the John Hancock Center where you can skip the admission fee by ascending to the 96th-floor Signature Lounge. Drinks are on the pricey side, but the chance to take in the views (which many feel are better than those offered by the Sears Tower anyway) from the comfort of your own seat is worth the cost.

See summer shows on the cheap

Lollapalooza isn’t Chicago’s only music festival. In fact, in summer it seems there’s one or more every week (pick up a copy of Red Eye or Time Out to get the lowdown).

Get your copy of Red Eye here. / Photo: ChiBart

Street fests almost always feature live music, and admission is just a few bucks.

For both big-name and local acts, pack a picnic and head to the lawn at Ravinia. You can bring your own beer and wine and listen to music under the stars for around $10.

Grant Park also hosts free concerts several nights a week.

Bring your own

Chicago’s liquor laws allow restaurants to offer BYO (bring-your-own) service. With hundreds of BYO restaurants to choose from, serving all varieties of cuisine in every corner of the city, there’s no reason not to take advantage and save yourself a few bucks.

Some restaurants charge a nominal “corkage fee” for your beer or wine, but you’ll still save considerably when you bring your own. For more info, check out 10 Spots in Chicago for BYOB Dining.

Ride the El

You can reach most attractions in the downtown area by foot, but to explore Chicago’s many diverse neighborhoods, you’ll need some sort of transportation.

Photo: PhotoDu.de

Cab fares add up and parking is virtually impossible in many areas, so cut costs by riding the El, the city’s elevated train (which actually runs underground in parts). Single rides are $2.25 and day- and week-long passes are a great deal.

Riding the El is not only cheap, but watching the city go by from the elevated tracks is also a quintessential Chicago experience.

Forgo a full dinner

Chicago is home to some of the most celebrated restaurants in the country — many of which require you to order an expensive tasting menu of four to upwards of twelve courses. Save money by skipping the multi-course menu in the dining room and instead ordering a la carte at the bar.

If you’re absolutely committed to dining on fancy fish at L2O, for example, you can opt out of the $110-per person, four-course meal and order small plates for $10-20 each in the lounge.

Likewise, if you can’t splurge on a several hundred dollar meal at Tru, you can try a cheaper sampling of dishes in the bar, or book a “dessert-only” tasting for around $50 per person.

Save your shopping for neighborhood boutiques

Shopping at the designer stores on Michigan Avenue is a dream for many tourists. Paying off the credit card bill afterward, however, will be a nightmare.

Photo: johnnyalive

Add in the fact that the influx of lower-cost chains like Forever 21 and H&M is taking some of the luster away from the experience, and shopping on the “Magnificent Mile” is no longer all that appealing.

For unique and affordable duds, check out the independent boutiques in Wicker Park, Bucktown, Lincoln Park, and Lakeview. You’ll find one-of-a-kind pieces that’ll impress your friends back home — without spending a fortune.

Pay less to ride the river

An architectural cruise along the Chicago River is a great way to learn about the city’s many notable buildings. But it ain’t cheap.

Photo: [[MorphoMir]]

Instead, take a more budget-friendly ride on the water taxi that runs from Michigan Avenue to Chinatown. These go for just two bucks and pass many of the city’s most famous structures.

Score free admission

If you’re planning a visit to one of Chicago’s many museums, check each one’s website for a list of free-admission days scattered throughout the year.

The Chicago Art Institute offers free admission after 5pm on Thursday and Friday, and the Museum of Contemporary Art is free each Tuesday.

The Lincoln Park Zoo is free every day.

Community Connection

Looking for other Matador community members in Chicago to connect with? Search for them in our destination pages.

And for all you cheapies out there, make sure not to miss these guides:

8 Ways to Save Money on a U.S. Cross-Country Road Trip

Seattle on the Cheap: 7 Tips to Save Cash in the Emerald City

Big Sky Country on a Small-Time Budget

The Best of Ireland on a Budget

Berlin on the Cheap

Photo: chris runoff

Culinary America

A land of immigrants, Americans learned long ago that the best way to stay in touch with the mother culture — long after the language fell away — was through cooking. This nostalgia and passion are as much a part of traditional recipes as their ingredients.

In addition to using food to remember where we came from, we also use it to express where we want to go. American cuisine is one of diverse experimentation. Here are some favorites:

1. The San Francisco Bay Area is America’s culinary king. From Half Moon Bay to San Francisco and Berkeley to Sonoma and Napa and Marin Counties, this region leads in food and wine that’s locally and organically grown and artistically prepared.

Photo: hillary h

2. For the best traditional cuisine mixed with riotous innovation, New Orleans is the place. This southern city flawlessly combines tradition with experimentation, and its people continue to define the joy of cooking, eating, and sharing a table.

3. Chicago, with its incredibly diverse population — from Eastern and Central Europe, to the circum-Mediterranean, to Latin America, to East Asia — is a foodie heaven.

Here’s a city where you can find the best of the most unknown cuisines, such as a Serbian restaurant serving up traditional dishes that would pass muster back home.

4. Philadelphia is as rich in American food and drink as it is in American history, especially considering its rise in recent years as a major restaurant town.

Freshly feeding this trend is the hinterland of farms, forests, and fields in both Pennsylvania and New Jersey, the presence of European-styled daily markets like the Reading Terminal and Italian Markets, and the growth of urban community gardens.

Philadelphia’s City Tavern served our founding fathers, and it can do the same for you. It’s still as exciting, broad, and spicy as it was in the 18th century, when far-flung ingredients were constantly coming through the city’s active international port on the Delaware River.

Sacred America

In addition to human-built spiritual facilities, some of America’s most sacred sites are found in its varied and vast natural spaces. A handy list of such places is available at Places of Peace and Power. Standouts include:

Photo: R. Doyle Bowman

1. Canyon de Chelly in northeastern Arizona is among the longest continuously inhabited places in North America, to this day managed by the Navajo Nation in collaboration with the National Park Service.

Canyon de Chelly is not only a national monument but also home to a Navajo community.

2. In 1872, Lakota shaman Black Elk identified the center of the universe in the Black Hills of the Dakotas — Okawita Paha, otherwise known as Harney Peak. His Great Vision preserved for us the awareness that this place as an immensely important sacred spot in North America.

While much has changed in the region since then, Harney Peak and the Black Hills continue to possess the power to arrest us, to take us out of our ordinary selves, and to enable us to see our interconnectedness to each other and all life.

3. The Vedanta Temple in Montecito, California, occupies a strong, authentic sacred landscape in the mountains east of Santa Barbara. Throughout the years, the temple has maintained its peaceful atmosphere of meditation and spiritual practice, welcoming all.

Photo: SF Brit

4. Grace Cathedral in San Francisco has an open, spiritually oriented attitude, plus the appeal of an indoor-outdoor labyrinth based on that of France’s Chartres Cathedral.

It’s a terrific setting for a walking meditation, and visitors are respectful of each others’ desire for inner work and silence. More information is available on their website.

Romantic America

Again, from can’t-look-away natural scenery to human-made getaways, America offers countless opportunities for hand-in-hand exploration.

1. Strolling Philadelphia’s expansive colonial neighborhood is like walking in old America and old Europe simultaneously. Filled with over three centuries of history — a marvel of antiquity for most American cities — Old City Philadelphia is full of gardens, walking paths, cobbled streets, old cemeteries, and great cafes and taverns.

2. Driving California’s Highway 1 from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz, you’ll pass through one of North America’s most romantic natural landscapes.

This unique coastal expanse possesses wild vistas and nature parks, intimate towns and beach coves, all along a route where adventure is just around the bend.

3. The French Quarter of New Orleans will always hang onto that worn, Old World romance no matter what comes its way.

Photo: specialkrb

From its colorful ambiance, to its great food and ale, to a sense of community connectedness, this is a great place to go with the one you love, or perhaps to find him or her during an authentic blues set in one of many small, local joints.

4. Another excellent romantic mini-roadtrip runs between the Hudson River Valley of New York and the Berkshires of western Massachusetts. The pace of life here is utterly different than that in the cities just hours away.

From the road you’ll get vistas of mountains, forests, and rivers, while there are plenty of opportunities to stop and savor good local food, go for a romantic hike, and enjoy theater and live music in old-fashioned, small-scale venues.

Community Connection

If you like the Eat, Pray, Love concept, you’ll want to check out Beebe’s guides to Morocco, Portugal, and Spain.

Have your own favorite spot for a culinary, spiritual, or romantic getaway in the U.S.? Share it with Trips readers in the comments.

Photo: Phineas H

The Hume Highway — the inland route between Melbourne and Sydney — is not very exciting. And that’s putting it mildly.

If you’re going to make the trip between these two great Australian cities, take your time and drive the more scenic Sapphire Coast. You won’t be disappointed.

Photo: teknorat

First, find yourself a killer rental deal and escape the city

You can find rentals for as low as $9.99/day with unlimited mileage at RedSpotRentals.

Melbourne’s sprawl takes about an hour to clear. Say goodbye to the crowded suburbs and find yourself amidst grazing land and livestock that outnumber people as you enter the Gippsland plains.

If it’s warm enough, crack open the windows and let the eucalyptus-laden breeze float in.

Lakes’ Entrance

About four hours out of Melbourne, you’ll come upon Lakes’ Entrance. Miles of estuary waterways twist their way to the horizon in either direction, and the whole lot rushes together violently with the tides through a channel you could throw a football across.

The waters churn with the clashing currents, the open ocean beyond full of whitecaps that throw up a grey haze of sea spray. In the distance, if you look hard enough, oil rig platforms can be made out hovering above the hazy ocean like alien spaceships.

Photo: Phillie Casablanca

During the winter months — that’s North American summer, remember — the town is deserted, and you should have no problem finding a cheap room for the night at a clean hostel. There is plenty of boating and fishing to be done here.

Lamb-lover alert: head to the Six Sisters and a Pigeon Café on the town’s main road for a tasty lamburger.

Twofold Bay and Eden

From Lakes’ Entrance, it’s only a few hours before you come over a ridge and are greeted with a panoramic view: Twofold Bay and the hills of Eden. The beer coasters at the local pub proclaim “a drinking town with a fishing problem” and the place smells salty and slightly sour.

Pull into the Killer Whale Museum to search for the skeleton of Old Tom, the orca whose pod hunted with the locals when Eden was a whaling town only two generations ago. (For more on this stranger-than-fiction story, read The Killers of Eden.)

At the wharf, watch the dolphins and seals dive lazily through schools of fish.

On Friday nights the Great Southern Inn holds a meat raffle. Buy tickets to support the local rugby team and to win yourself shrink-wrapped trays full of different meats and cuts from the local butcher to fill your barbecue while on the road.

Eden is more a working town than a tourist destination, with controversial woodchipping taking over from whaling as the area’s primary industry. There are plenty of B&Bs around, and judging by their posted rates, there is clearly a healthy tourism trade here.

Photo: misha.pics.word.

Bermagui and around

Leaving Eden, you’ll only be on the road for a few hours before reaching Bermagui. This town is even smaller. It’s in this region that I could happily spend my days hanging around the forgotten coastal villages with their pungent aromas of ocean and seafood.

The landscape is mixed: craggy cliff faces rise from a frothy ocean on one side and still, flat lakes lie in the shelter of the coastal dunes on the other.

Make sure you catch the legendary sunset with Mount Dromedary providing a dramatic backdrop. Boats stream back into port through the breakwater in the fading light. Keep your eyes open for the resident fairy penguins!

Back in the day, the Bermagui Hotel was a ramshackle pub with plenty of colorful characters swapping fishing tales at the bar. Nowadays, the rooms are painted in peach tones with matching towels and linens; you can even book a room with a spa bath.

There’s also a sushi joint here, right next to the hippie River Rock Café which gives surf lessons and serves up organic coffee and live music.

You could spend weeks exploring these parts — Tathra, Narooma, Lilli Pilli, Bateman’s Bay — take your pick.

Arrival in Sydney

Traffic in Sydney is no fun, even on a Sunday evening. The Harbour Bridge and Opera House are ghostly and spectacular by night, but the roadways, especially in the CBD (Central Business District), can be very confusing.

If you are staying in the city, plan to arrive early enough in the afternoon to give yourself time to settle in and discover a cozy little bistro, pub, or café overlooking the harbour to watch the sun go down.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

You’re gonna need some tunes to bop your head and sing badly to on your trip. Check out the Greatest Roadtrip Soundtrack Ever for some ideas.

This piece on Melbourne has some solid reasons for you to linger a while there, and Australia by the Numbers will give you a different perspective of the land down under.

Photo: André Brugiroux

Somewhere between 189 and 217 nautical miles off the coast of Yemen (depending on your source of information), and some 130 off the coast of Somalia, like a tiny, glittering tongue-stud in the gaping maw of the Gulf of Aden, lies the legendary island of Socotra (Suquṭra), ancient source of ambergris, dragon’s blood, frankincense, and myrrh.

Now an International Biosphere Reserve, it’s been called a Wonder Land, the Galapagos of the Indian Ocean, and one of The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth.

“It is one of those unique places in the world,” says Spanish toptrotter Jorge Sanchez, founder of the well-respected Travelers Exploits Club.

And it has a long and distinguished history of being very hard to get to.

By Sea

With two annual monsoons (southwest from June-October and northeast from April-May), no natural harbor, not much anchorage to speak of, and a flourishing offshore piracy business, arrival by sea has always been problematic.

Photo: NASA

Thomas the Apostle is said to have been shipwrecked here sometime in the first century A.D., on his way to or from India. They say he built a church from the wreckage.

Marco Polo managed a safe landing, apparently, but noted the abundance of corsairs selling booty to the locals. For the generally uncooperative weather he squarely blamed the latter: a naked people he described as “the most skilful enchanters in the world.” He continues,

[I]f a ship is proceeding full sail with a favourable wind, they raise a contrary one, and oblige it to return. They can make it blow from any quarter they please, and cause either a dead calm or a violent tempest.

According to The Arabian Nights, Sinbad the Sailor made a brief call here on his fifth voyage, only to have his ship destroyed not by Socotran witchcraft but by a pair of huge, angry, possibly not entirely mythical birds-of-prey dropping boulders on it.

Birds of such description no longer factor among the 211 species on the Socotra Bird Checklist. And the last Socotran witchcraft trials are said to have been held in the 1970s. But the corsairs, as always well-equipped with the latest in contemporary weaponry and chutzpah, are still very much in business.

According to Alan Lucas’ classic Red Sea and Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, “vessels have been grappled and towed into shore for looting.” Yachtsmen are advised to give the archipelago as wide a berth as possible.

Several local fishermen have been murdered in the last seven months, or have had their boats or engines taken out from under them at gunpoint. A freighter bound for Socotra with 2,000 tons of diesel fuel was taken by Somali pirates and held for ransom between January and April of this year, causing a shortage of electricity on the island.

The silver lining, for diving enthusiasts, is an unparalleled underwater landscape of sunken vessels waiting to be explored.

By Air

Bill Altaffer, of Expedition Photo Travel in San Diego, was among the first tourists to Socotra after a new airstrip was built in 1999. It almost didn’t happen for him.

“We got on a plane in Sana’a,” he recalls.

It was a crummy plane, a Yemen Air piece of shit, and as we’re about to lift off there’s this big bang and flames shoot out of the engine.

Photo: Sotti

Altaffer’s been to every country in the world, plus 300 island groups, disputed areas, territories, and colonies. He’s been to both poles. He’s surfed off every continent and skied on six. The dude was the first American to surf the legendary Queenscliff bombora off Manly Beach in Sydney (in 1962).

He wasn’t about to let a little equipment failure get in the way of his pioneering visit to what he describes as “an island full of blond people who are descendants of Alexander the Great.”

If it had come to it, he’d have gone through Aden, where weeks earlier the USS Cole had docked to a warm welcome of Al Qaeda-brand C-4 explosives. As it turned out, Yemenia found another plane in somewhat better condition.

“The easiest way from the U.S. is through Dubai on Emirates,” says Charles Veley, of San Francisco, who by his own count is The World’s Most Traveled Man.

If you don’t want to stop in Dubai, you should continue on to Sana’a on Emirates. Transiting to Yemenia (last time I did it) involves a terminal change and isn’t fun.

At age 44, Veley has been to 710 “countries, territories, autonomous regions, enclaves, geographically separated island groups, and major states and provinces.” When he gets to 762 he figures he’ll have been “everywhere” — that is, unless the number goes up before he gets there.

Charles Veley on Socotra

He hit Socotra early on December 31, 2004, back when there was only one flight a week, “so the choice was whether to turn around the same day or stay 7 days.”

Veley stayed for a couple of hours, found the landscape “remarkable and otherworldly,” and the people “super-friendly — much friendlier than on the mainland,” then got back on the plane in time to make a giant New Year’s Eve party and Sean Paul concert at the Sheraton in Addis Ababa.

When he goes back to Socotra, he says, he’ll spend 3-5 days and treat it “like a camping trip, because the hotels are basic and in the only town [Hadibo], and the scenery is far out of town.”

Until recently, Yemenia (Yemen National Airways) was the only airline with semi-regular service to Socotra (SCT). For a while it was almost daily, out of both Sana’a and Aden, through Riyan (RIY) at Al Mukalla.

Then, what with one of its dozen or so planes dropping into the ocean, and all attendant and ongoing international scrutiny of maintenance habits and such, Yemenia seems to have cancelled some of its domestic schedule.

Photo: Sotti

For now anyway, local upstart Felix Airways has stepped into the void, with its four Canadian Bombardier CRJ700s (and four more on order) and five scheduled round-trip flights weekly between Riyan and Socotra (Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday).

Connect to Riyan via Sana’a (SAH) or Aden (ADE). Online booking is “coming soon.”

In the meantime, try contacting their office at the Sana’a airport on 967-1-565656, or by email at callcenter@felixairways.com.

And let us know how it goes!

Rules, Regs & Red Flags

For the latest travel advisories, piracy and terrorism updates, and general visa information, check the U.S. State Department’s oft-updated Yemen Page.

Get your visa beforehand in Washington, says Veley: “Supposedly they are available on arrival, but they’re not very forthcoming at the window in the Sana’a airport.”

General Notes/Tips from Jorge Sanchez

You can hitch hike from the airport to Hadibo: the first car will give you a ride. In Hadibo there are several hotels, you can bargain for the price. The first one is where all tourists meet, Germans, Italians, and the rest. They organize trips, excursions, rent Land Rovers, etc. I went further downtown and found a nice hotel, cheap, with shower. But several nights I slept à la belle etoile, on the beach. People brought us mattresses to sleep on the sand.

Photo: Boris Khvostichenko

Fish is good and cheap, as well as goats.

Transport is easy: just stop any pick-up and negotiate a price for the highlights of the island, especially the dragon’s blood trees and the oasis in the middle of the island, it’s all very cheap.

Learn some Arabic, it’s very useful in negotiating prices.

The only inconvenience is that beers are forbidden, and all alcohol, so it’s water or Coca Cola. Still, you will not regret visiting Socotra!

Community Connection

Have you been to Socotra? We would LOVE to hear from you. Share your experiences in the comments!

For more otherworldly scenes, be sure to check out Photo Essay: The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth.

Hiking in the Diamond Head area of Garibaldi Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada
Photographer: footloosiety

Community Connection

If you’re looking to be inspired by fellow travelers, Matador’s the place for you. Sign up today.

Photo: Larsz / Feature photo: Mike Willis

1. Spearfish Canyon National Scenic Byway

This is a fantastic drive in any season, where you’ll find granite walls specked with Black Hills spruce and aspen, tumbling waterfalls, and rolling creeks cascading over rocky beds.

The hike to Roughlock Falls is the perfect way to connect with nature. In the fall months the reds, oranges, and yellows of the trees, combined with the deep canyon walls and surging falls, provide plenty of visual and aural stimulation.

Photo: allygirl520

2. Deadwood

This restored gold-mining town is a national historic landmark, with architecture dating from the late nineteenth century. Gambling is legal here, so if you enjoy the slots, or just like bantering with witty bartenders, head to one of the numerous casinos.

If history is what you’re after, Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane are buried at the Mount Moriah Cemetery. The Adam’s House Museum provides an educational perspective on Deadwood and the Black Hills.

There are also some great events in town. My favorite, the Deadwood Jam in mid-September, is an eclectic music festival showcasing blues, country, rock ‘n’ roll, and reggae. You can line up lawn chairs at the outdoor venue, crack open some drinks, and enjoy the local company.

3. Mount Rushmore

Visiting Mount Rushmore renews my patriotic spirit no matter how many times I’ve seen it. National pride swells as your eyes wander over the 60ft carvings by Gutzon Borglum and his 400 helpers. The nightly lighting ceremony, accompanied by patriotic music, is a reminder to be thankful for the privileges we enjoy as Americans.

4. Keystone

Two miles from Mount Rushmore, Keystone is an entertaining stop. Dip into the shops and restaurants, fly down the alpine slide, or watch a wood carver transform a tree stump into a proud bald eagle or bulky bison. You can also ride a tram, pan for gold, relax on the verandas, and visit the Presidential Wax Museum.

Big Time Pizza in the Roosevelt Inn has the best pies in the region. Ask for my favorite, the Super Supreme.

5. Hill City

This hospitable town has a quaint Main Street lined with art galleries and shops full of gifts and antiques. Hill City is also home to the 1880 steam train, which winds it’s way from here to Keystone.

Near Rapid City — the gateway to the Black Hills — visit the Circle B Ranch for an authentic western experience. Eat a proper cowboy meal, bob your head to twangy country music, watch a gun fight, and go horseback riding. The Flying T Chuckwagon Supper & Show or the Fort Hays Chuckwagon Supper & Show can also satisfy the little cowboy in you.

6. Crazy Horse Memorial

My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes, also.

- Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear to Korczak Ziolkowski

Photo: Jennifer L. Sovanski

These words set in motion the building of the Crazy Horse Memorial, 17 miles from Mount Rushmore. The head alone is planned to exceed the size of the presidents’ heads by over 20 feet.

Although Mr. Ziolkowski was twice offered $10 million from the U.S. government to fund the project, he declined it on the principle that his broader educational vision would be compromised by federal involvement.

Mr. Ziolkowski died in 1982 but his wife, Ruth, and most of their 10 children have continued the work.

7. Harney Peak

Hiking to the top of Harney Peak — the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains at 7,244 feet — is well worth the sweat. On my first attempt I was unable to make it to the top, despite encouragement from hikers coming down.

However, I vowed to make it the next time — and I did. On a clear day, you have panoramic views of South Dakota, Wyoming, Nebraska, North Dakota, and Montana from the fire lookout tower.

On the way down, this time it was I who encouraged others to keep going.

8. Needles Highway

Located in Custer State Park, the Needles Highway is a road worth traveling for views of the 20-40ft granite spires reaching to the sky, backdropped by thick forest. Drive carefully — the single-lane tunnel is a little harrowing.

9. Caves

There are eight caves to tour in the Black Hills, two being part of national parks and six owned privately. Inside one of the largest cave systems in the world, you can expect to see unique calcite crystals, arranged in a honeycomb-like pattern, embedded in the limestone walls.

As the temperatures in the caves stay consistently in the 50s F, they’re great for cooling off when it’s too hot up top.

Photo: IndigoValley

10. Custer State Park

At 71,000 acres, Custer State Park is a great place for wildlife viewing. You can spot hordes of buffalo grazing on the green grass from Wildlife Loop Road.

Every time I see them, I’m amazed by their size and presence and am reminded of their connection to the Lakota Nation, who relied on buffalo for survival.

I giggle at the wild burros in the park, who stick their snouts into car windows looking for food. Mountain goats, antelope, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, and wild turkeys are other animals you might be able to glimpse during a visit.

Looking for some relaxation? The lakes here are the perfect prescription for stress. Swim or fish, or simply wade around for some therapeutic calming.

More information

Make sure you visit the South Dakota Tourism website for more on the area’s history, events, and things to do.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re looking for more great itineraries and ideas in the States, check out Gateway to Pristine America: 12 Towns on the Edge of Spectacular Wilderness and Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides.

Why not save some money while you’re at it? Have a read of 8 Ways to Save Money on a U.S. Cross-Country Road Trip.

Get the Bond experience at these destinations without having to give up your identity:

1. Location: British SIS Headquarters, Vauxhall, London
Better known as: MI6 Headquarters

Photo: Jim Bowen

The real-life headquarters of the British Secret Service has been Bond’s headquarters many times over, making appearances in Goldeneye, The World is Not Enough, and Die Another Day.

The £135,000,000 building is in Vauxhall, England, and much of its design specifications remain classified due to the security measures in place to protect it. You can’t blame them: it was badly damaged in September of 2000 after being struck by a rocket attack.

Judging from their history of innovations, like Bond’s mechanical alligator in Octopussy, they’re always on top of their security game.

2. Location: Piz Gloria, Schilthorn, Switzerland
Better known as: Ernst Blofeld’s headquarters

Photo: Paul Stephenson

From England, we’ll take the world’s longest aerial cable-car system to the summit at Schlithorn in the Swiss Alps, where the iconic villain Ernst Blofeld and his creepy cat made their hideout  in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Blofeld has since fled the area, but today you’ll find one of the world’s first and tallest revolving restaurants, Piz Gloria, at 2,970m (9,744ft).

At the summit, the sight of more than 200 mountain peaks and glaciers is your revolving backdrop as you sip your shaken martini from the Bond Bar that pays homage to its Hollywood doppelganger. In winter the Schilthorn hosts the start of the world’s longest downhill ski race, the Inferno, that spans 16 kilometers and attracts more than 1,800 competitors.

3. Location: Jökulsárlón, Iceland
Better known as: Site of Bond’s icy car chase in Die Another Day, among other appearances

Photo: Ollografik

The movie’s title may not have been referring to the otherworldly ice lagoons in Jökulsárlón, but this destination featured in the opening scene of A View to Kill certainly feels like a site for Armageddon. The stillness of the river and its icy lillypads invokes the spirit of the spot’s former glacial giants that have since melted, leaving traces of their majesty in the jagged, black-and-white ice formations.

Despite its remote locale, Bond has visited Jökulsárlón a number of times, most famously in Die Another Day (feat. above) where a car chase across the ice lagoon in an Aston Martin brought him to the Ice Palace.

4. Location: Fontainebleau Hotel, Miami Beach, FL
Better known as: Setting for “man talk” in Goldfinger

Photo: Lumiere

The Fountainebleau is what James Bond would be if he died and was reincarnated as a ridiculously ballin’ beach resort. Stylish yet dignified. Modern yet timeless. Glamorous yet mysterious. These paradoxes of the Bond persona are the essence of the Fontainebleau: the snobbiest French-named hotel in America with more celebrities, style, and reputation than any other.

Staying at the Fontainebleau is a trip in itself. Facing the Atlantic, the 1504-room resort just added two new towers, 11 restaurants and lounges, a 40,000-square-foot spa, and its signature free-form pool that’s about as big as a football field. Why would Bond stay anywhere else?

5. Location: Ko Tapu, Phang Nga Bay, Thailand
Better known as: Scaramanga’s secret island; James Bond Island

Photo: Rene Ehrhardt

Ever since The Man With the Golden Gun premiered, the sixty-foot monolith of Ko Tapu, or James Bond Island, has been one of the main tourist draws of Ao Phang Nga National Park. Day tours run from Phuket.

There isn’t much to do around James Bond Island. You could start a secret hideaway in case you ever become a villainous assassin, but it’s already been done. You’re better off touring the other attractions this otherworldly bay has to offer.

6. Location: Pão de Açúcar, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Better known as: Backdrop for Bond’s cable-car fight with Jaws

Photo: Alicia Nijdam

Typically, you’re supposed to ride inside the cable car on the way up to Sugarloaf, but if you’re going for the full Bond experience you can’t expect to get around like a normal person. Then again, if you’re really going to travel like Bond you’ve got to bring along a galpal with the last name “Goodhead.” Classy, James.

If watching Moonraker turned you off of the cable car, Rio’s 1,300ft Sugarloaf offers plenty of great climbing, as do the surrounding mountains of Morro da Babilônia and Morro da Urca. Together, they form one of the largest urban climbing areas in the world, with more than 270 routes.

7. Location: Holy Trinity Monastery, Meteora, Greece
Better known as: Kristatos’s hideout in For Your Eyes Only

Photo: Mike G. K.

Sometime around 1000 A.D., a bunch of hermits in Thessaly, Greece decided they wanted out of their caves, and set out to build a new home for their life of prayer and meditation.  The best idea they could come up with was building twenty or so massive monasteries on top of extremely tall and narrow pillars.  While not in the most convenient location, the Eastern Orthodox monasteries of Meteora are some of the most impressive combinations of man-made and natural architecture.

To get there, you can take a bus from Ioannina, Trikala, Thessaloniki, or Athens — or you can go Bond style and just use your bare hands.  However, be sure to clean up before checking out the monasteries, because they’ll kick you out if you’re wearing shorts or sleeveless shirts.  Besides, if you’re rolling with Bond, you roll in style.

8. Location: Rock of Gibraltar, Southern Spain
Better known as: Site of Bond’s descent in The Living Daylights

Photo: Wikimedia Commons

At the top of the famous Rock of Gibraltar off the coast of Spain, the British (who own the island) built an RAF airbase that the producers of The Living Daylights wanted to use for the film.  The problem was, it didn’t “look military enough,” so fake barbed wire, security signs, and other defense accouterments were added to convince the audience that James Bond only messes around in top-level security clearance areas.

For centuries, the Rock has been an impenetrable stronghold during wartime, and has never even been close to being captured, allowing for the historical simile, “strong as the Rock of Gibraltar.” Today, you can visit as a tourist and take in the local flora and fauna, the historical landmarks (like the first Neanderthal skull), or make like a real Bond and just head to the casino.

9. Location: Lake Palace, Udaipur, India
Better known as: Bond’s hotel in Octopussy

Photo: View From the Saddle

As we all know, when Bond travels, he only stays at the best.  And by the best, I mean a 350-year-old palace-turned-hotel on a tiny slab of granite floating in the middle of a lake.  In Udaipur’s Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace sits at a distance from the rest of the city, and its pristine white walls seem to glow amidst the rest of the sandblasted landscape.

Community Connection

Movie buffs won’t want to miss these other Matador titles:

The 20 Most Memorable Travel Films (That Aren’t Really About Travel)

Ten Great Film Festivals And One Stinkarooni

The Red Pill: 10 Films Guaranteed To Blow Your Mind

25 Movies That Literally Moved Us (According To Budget Travel)

Also, make sure to check out Matador contributing editor Eva Holland’s blog Not Coming to a Theater Near You.

Photo above: gudi&cris, Feature photo: discosour

Most people have likely only heard of one Inca road, the Inca Trail that passes over mountains, through the Sun Gate, and into the Wonder of the World that is Machu Picchu.

But Peru and other Andean countries are riddled with the remains of hundreds, if not thousands, of Inca roads. One secret of the empire’s success was exactly this degree of connection between its distant and diverse territories.

The local Quechua people, the Incas’ direct descendants, retain knowledge about these routes. In fact, they still use them to travel from one mountain-trapped town to another, to transport goods to weekly markets, maybe even to go to school each morning.

Just this past week, news emerged that a team of Peruvian and Spanish archaeologists have uncovered yet another track, which appears to have provided an alternative point of access to Machu Picchu.

In typical Inca fashion, it is “paved” with stones and reinforced with walls that in some places stand as high as 16ft.

Photo: Lee Coursey

Information is scant, but you can read more about the discovery in the Latin American Herald Tribune.

Experts think the reason the road may have gone so long without being found is that it was sacred, used only by Inca priests, and so awareness of it was limited.

What lies in store for the road now that it’s seen the light of day again? I’m sure it can kiss its former sacredness adios.

Give it five years, then look for the signs in Cuzco’s tour agency windows: “Why hike the commoner’s Inca Trail when you can follow in the footsteps of priests?”

Community Connection

Of course, you don’t have to trail it at all to get to Machu Picchu, and in forgoing the trek you can save some real dough. Find out how in Machu Picchu on the Cheap.

Think the whole thing is overhyped and overrated? Why not Discover Your Own Machu Picchu at Choquequirao, Peru?

Photo above: Martin St-Amant, Feature photo: Rick McCharles

Restoration to this small Incan city only began in the ’90s. The first visitors had to cross the Apurímac River via a rope bridge to reach it.

During a typical afternoon at Machu Picchu, you’ll be one among hundreds (if not thousands). At Choquequirao, you might see six or seven other visitors, if any.

While the ruins currently sit under the radar, their recent addition to the tour rosters in Cuzco means they won’t stay there forever. There’s also talk of building a highway to the site within the next 10 years. Consider yourself warned — get there now.

Practicalities

Choquequirao lies northwest of Cuzco, on the opposite side of snowy Mt. Salkantay from Machu Picchu. Access is via the highway to Abancay.

Photo: Rick McCharles

The trek has become standard fare among tour operators in Cuzco, running around $200 per person, all-inclusive (minus tip, of course). Remember the general rule: the farther you wander from the main plaza, the less you’ll pay.

Of course, it’s possible to visit the ruins on your own. Knowing some Spanish is helpful, but the destination is popular enough now that most people will know what you’re doing and be able to help.

Hop an Abancay-bound bus and ask the driver to let you off at the turnoff to Cachora, just after the Saihuite archeological site. From there, flag down one of the frequent taxis that make the short journey to Cachora. There’s basic accommodation in the village if you need it.

From the plaza, follow the main road downhill, continuing after it turns to dirt. Soon, you’ll see a blue entrance sign pointing you towards the path to the ruins. Once on it, it’s nearly impossible to get lost.

Independent hikers will need to pay two different access fees along the trail, as it runs through Apurímac and Cuzco Departments. Each is around $12 per person.

Come prepared — you’ll be experiencing vastly different elevations and ecosystems, so both mosquito repellant and a warm sleeping bag are advisable.

The Trek

This is no saunter down the Inca Trail.

Photo: Nelo

From the village to the ruins and back, you’re looking at 74 km (46 miles). But it’s the elevation changes that really kill.

On the first day, the trail drops 1,800 meters (6,000 feet) to the floor of the Apurímac River valley, only to climb even higher on day 2. Then, you do the whole thing again when it’s time to leave.

Don’t let your guide — carefully trained in “exhausted-tourist encouragement” — fool you. This is tough stuff.

Most tours run 4 days/3 nights, but duration depends largely on your ability. Some people take 5 or even 6 days. I did mine in 3…barely. True speed demons (and the clinically insane) have been known to make the round trip in 2.

As with any tour in Peru, the more time you can spare, the more you’ll explore and discover. And in this case, the more your body will thank you when you’re done.

Photo: author

Speaking of sore bodies, a better option for independent trekkers than lugging a 30-40 lb. pack is to hire a mule in Cachora. This is how gear is hauled if you go with a guide — there are no porters.

Campgrounds are plentiful, with three near the river on the Cachora side, a few at varying heights on the mountain opposite, and at least one at Choquequirao itself. They charge a dollar or two per tent, per night.

The best is at Maranpata, at the end of day 2’s long, steep climb. The open views are tremendous, though this makes it a bit chillier.

Bonus adventure

For those who truly want to immerse themselves in the land of the Inca, you can turn this into a 9-day trek that ends in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). From Choquequirao, the trail drops and climbs a few more times, passing other minor archeological sites en route.

My guide told me the Choquequirao-Machu Picchu trek is incredibly strenuous, but he also called it the best trek in Peru. Only a couple hundred people do it each year. Compare that to the 2,500 descending on Machu Picchu every day, and you’ve got yourself some serious isolation.

Photo: author

The Ruins

Some ads claim that Choquequirao is “bigger than Machu Picchu,” but this refers to the mountain itself, not the ruins.

Choquequirao was a small city, about 20 families strong, and has nowhere near the number of structures as its famous cousin.

However, because restoration began only recently, there’s likely much more still hidden by jungle.

Though your legs may be resisting at this point, make sure to follow the path that drops steeply on the far side of the ruins, which will lead you to a series of terraces. These original stone walls are decorated with white rocks that create the figures of llamas.

Photo: andyinsouthamerica

You won’t find these at Machu Picchu, or anywhere else for that matter.

But the real attraction of Choquequirao is simple: there’s no one there.

Apart from a few teams of restoration workers and one or two other small tourist groups, you’ll have the quiet, magnificent ruins all to yourself — almost as if you were discovering your own Machu Picchu.

Community Connection

Regardless of how many Choquequiraos become available to tourists, the classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu trek will remain the biggest draw. Trips has what you need for this itinerary too. Make sure to check out How to Trek the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu on the Cheap.

Great American Beer Festival, Denver / Photo: deege@fermentarium.com

Brewery Tours

A brewery tour will show you the care and craft that goes into beer production, and most breweries offer them for free.

Photo: Bernt Rostad

Try the short but informative free tour at Great Divide, often given by one of the brewers themselves.

Afterwards, enjoy free samples of award-winning beers like Saint Bridget’s Porter and Hercules Double IPA in the small tasting room. If your visit coincides with happy hour (4-7pm, Monday-Friday), you’ll also get discounts on pints, which normally cost $4-$5 each.

The smaller city of Boulder sits in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, 35 miles north of Denver, and a tour of father-and-son-run Avery Brewing is worth the short drive. Make sure to toss back an India Pale Ale or Out of Bounds Stout once your tour’s over.

If you need a snack to go with your beer, try a gyro from the Pearl Street Gyro Cart, which sets up shop in the Tap Room. A pint’s just two bucks with any gyro.

The largest of Colorado’s breweries, Coors, is found between Denver and Boulder. For Fat Tire fans, New Belgium Brewing Company lies farther up the road in Fort Collins.

Brew Pubs

With nearly 70 rotating beers on tap and many more in bottles, Denver’s Falling Rock Tap House is the place to sample to your heart’s content.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer quantity of taps lining the wall, but the friendly bartenders are happy to make recommendations and offer a taste to help you decide. The diverse menu is categorized by style and includes ales, ambers, lagers, IPAs, stouts, porters, and cask-conditioned beers from both local brewers and producers around the world.

If the 16-ounce curls sap your strength, Falling Rock has you covered with a bar menu featuring standard pub fare like wings and burgers.

Photo: mmckeay

Just off Pearl Street in Boulder is Mountain Sun Pub, offering more pub grub and the perfect beer sampler — six 6-ounces tastes of their award-winning brews for under $10.

For a few more options, head to Walnut Brewery, Boulder’s first brewpub. Indulge in anything from giant soft pretzels and thin-crust pizzas to fajitas and baby-back ribs along with a rotating selection of brewed-onsite beers like Devil’s Thumb Stout and Big Horn Bitter.

After dinner, walk a few blocks down to the Boulder Drafthouse, which hosts a variety of live music every night.

More Good Eats in Denver

Most of Denver’s bars and restaurants offer great happy hour deals on weekday nights and during certain weekend hours.

Photo: ChazWags

One of the best places for cheap happy hour eats is Dazzle, with nightly jazz performances. The $5 food menu includes items like fried calamari and creamy mac-and-cheese, and pulled-pork or salmon sliders are under two bucks each.

If the previous night’s exploits have left you a little rough around the edges, take a drive to Govnr’s Park for some hair of the dog. On Saturdays, brunch is buy one, get one free and mimosas are bottomless from 10am-2pm.

Or, if you’re up early and raring to go, hightail it to Snooze, Denver’s best brunch spot, to beat the crowd. Soak up any leftover alcohol in your system with corned beef hash, steak and eggs benedict, or pineapple upside-down pancakes.

Frothy Festivals

True beer fanatics should plan their Denver visit around the Great American Beer Festival, held every September. Tickets cost around $50 and are good for four hours of sampling some of the 1,800 beers on tap from around the world.

The newer, less-crowded All Colorado Beer Festival goes down in Colorado Springs each November and serves up beers from over 70 Colorado breweries.

Alcohol-Free Exploits

Everyone needs a break from the bottle at some point (c’mon, admit it!). When it’s time for yours, give some of these more “wholesome” activities a go:

Photo: Herkie

* Art perusing at the Denver Art Museum
* Paradisaical bliss at the Denver Botanic Gardens
* Beer calorie management on a hike in Red Rocks Park (located halfway between Denver and Boulder)
* Rock climbing near Boulder at Eldorado Canyon
* More outdoors in Chautauqua Park, at the base of the Flatirons

Practicalities

To explore outside of downtown Denver you’ll need a car (but don’t even think about drinking and driving), so pick one up at the airport.

In town, budget travelers can check into the Melbourne International Hostel for as little as $16 a dorm bed ($39 for a private double). Or, score yourself an eco-friendly suite at the Queen Anne Bed and Breakfast for around $135 a night.

In Boulder, private doubles at the Boulder International Youth Hostel start at $50.

The Bradley Boulder Inn, located right off Pearl Street in downtown Boulder, gets a little swankier, with posh rooms for $200 and up. However, these include a wine and cheese hour, wireless internet, access to a fitness center, and a hearty breakfast. Plus, if you hit every watering hole in this article, you won’t even remember swiping your card at checkout.

Community Connection

Other beer-based content to be had on Matador includes Beer Quest 2008: The Search for America’s Best Microbrew, 20 Best Beer Towns in America, and The Top 20 Microbrews in America.

Also, make sure to check out Katie’s 10 Spots in Chicago for BYOB Dining and How to Drink on the Reykjavik Rúntur.

Photo above: Jen SFO-BCN, Feature photo: Perrimoon

Eats: La Cova Fumada

This nook is easy to miss. But don’t let the cigarette smoke and cooking fat fumes that waft from behind its backstreet brown doors intimidate you. La Cova Fumada is the best seafood tapas bar in Barcelona, where local dock workers and fishermen come to grab a quick snack and hurl good-natured insults at one another.

At lunchtime, the harassed waiter turns a deaf ear to any drink orders that don’t involve red wine and the female kitchen staff (who look as if they’ve been wrestling in olive oil) wipe sweat from their brows with the tea towels.

Photo: loremipsum

From their tiny workspace, they turn out plate after plate of crispy grilled sardines, succulent octopus, bacalao in tomato sauce, and the house specialty of patatas bombas — fried potato balls smothered in a fiery garlic and chili sauce.

There are no frills, no menus, no reservations, no credit cards, and no English-speaking staff. Consequently, prices are about half those charged on La Rambla.

Address: C/ Baluard 56 (no sign)
Tel: +34 932 214 061
Hours: Monday to Friday 9am-3:30pm, Thursday and Friday 6pm-8.30pm, Saturday 9am-1.30pm. Closed Sundays and throughout August.

Green space: Parc de Guinardó

Guess what — Gaudí’s Parc Güell isn’t the finest green space in the city. Okay, so it’s easy on the eye and studded with delightful architectural eccentricities, but unless you’re the first to sprint through the gates at 10am, all your photos will be full of strangers’ elbows.

Instead, take the number 28 bus from Plaza Catalunya and stay on until the last stop — even if helpful pensioners frantically try to shoo you off at Parc Güell. From the bus stop, follow the road to the end and you’ll be in Parc de Guinardó, a sprawling municipal space that hardly anyone uses.

Ascend woodland paths to the top of the hill for a panoramic view of the city all to yourself.

Arriving: Bus 28 stops near the highest part of the park on Carrer de la Gran Vista – Plaça de la Mitja Lluna. The main entrance is at Carrer de Garriga i Roca 62
Tel: +34 934 500 749

Exercise: Montjuïc Municipal Olympic Swimming Pool

Swimming pools don’t get better than this.

Photo: liako

Built to showcase the city during the diving events of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics and used by Kylie in her video for “Slow,” you can enjoy a prefect view of the city while doing your laps.

The pool may not have much in the way of amenities, but with a setting this good, it’s hard to care.

Address: Av Miramar 31
Tel: +34 934 430 046
Arriving: Take the Metro to Parallel, then hop on the funicular. At the top, the pool is across the road next to the restaurant El Xalet.
Hours: Open daily between July and mid-September, 11am-6.30pm

Sweets: Caelum

Tucked away in the Barri Gòtic, Caelum is the place to go for a sugar fix when you’re weary of walking. They sell products made by nuns and monks from around the country and the two-floor teashop has a superb collection of cakes.

For any marzipan lovers wondering what heaven looks like, this is it.

Address: C/ de la Palla 8
Tel: +34 933 026 993

Beaches: Get out of town

Only tourists go to the beach in Barcelona.

Sant Pol de Mar / Photo: Antoni

If you spot a Catalan, it’s most likely they just haven’t made it home to bed yet.

Those in the know head farther up the coast. If you’re on a budget, a simple city metro ticket will take you to Montgat, a wide, sandy beach with safe swimming.

Farther north, Sant Pol de Mar is a lovely Catalan fishing village with clear blue water and a shingle beach that’s just an hour’s train ride from the city.

Websites: www.montgat.net, www.santpol.org

Architecture: Casa Calvet

Photo: ale3andro

Want to check out the interior of a Gaudí building but avoid the queues for tours of La Pedrera? Why not grab dinner in one instead?

Restaurant Casa Calvet opened its doors in 1994, having converted the offices and boardrooms of a building Gaudí designed for a local textile manufacturer into semi-private dining rooms. It isn’t cheap, but then it’s not every day you get to dine inside a work of art.

Main courses can be a bit hit and miss, but the mango tart with pepper ice-cream and yogurt sauce is a sure thing.

Address: Calle Casp 48
Tel: +34 934 124 012
Website: www.casacalvet.es
Kitchen hours: Monday to Saturday 1pm-3:30pm and 8:30pm-11pm. Closed Sundays.

Culture: Palau de la Música

There’s no denying that this world-famous concert hall and bastion of Modernist architecture is a tourist attraction, and deservedly so. To separate yourself from the hordes and see it in all its glory, attend a concert. The building is even more gorgeous inside than out.

Address: C/ de Sant Francesc de Paula 2, Urquinaona
Tel: +34 902 442 882
Website: www.palaumusica.org

Nightlife: Razzmatazz

Photo: itz.

You need stamina for clubbing in this town. If you want to party like a local, take a disco nap in the evening, begin a leisurely dinner around 10pm, and don’t even think about going to a club before 2:00 in the morning.

When you do, head for Razzmatazz.

Housed in an old factory, ‘the Razz’ is massive. Its five different dance floors play everything from indie and rock to electronica and pop.

There are frequent live music offerings as well.

Address: C/Almogàvers 122 – C/Pamplona 88
Tel: +34 933 208 200
Arriving: Take the Metro to Bogatell or Marina.
Website: www.salarazzmatazz.com

Community Connection

For more smart travel tips on the Catalan capital, be sure to check out Matador’s Green Guide to Barcelona and the Top 5 Ferias in Spain.

Destinations

Community Connection to Spain

The Matador community blogs are filled with travelers’ takes on Barcelona. Sample different perspectives with:

Tracing Gaudí around Barcelona

The Washing Machine: Barcelona, Spain

The best place for lunch in Barcelona: Outdoor Markets

LAUGHS AT THE LONDON BAR – Barcelona

La Champagneria: The craziest bar in Barcelona

Photo: paleontour

If you’re the kind of traveler that likes to defy danger and the wishes of the local indigenous people, then you’d better get your butt Down Under real soon. If the National Parks and the Anangu people of the Western Desert have their way, it will be illegal to climb this famous Australian landmark.

Photo: rplzzz

Less is still too much

As it is, there are heaps less people making the climb than before. In 1990, three-quarters of visitors reached the 340 meter peak, whereas today that ratio has shrunk to just one-third.

But that still translates to 250 people per day. 250 more than the Parks and the locals would like to see up there.

Besides the cultural sensitivity issues, it’s a dangerous climb. To further deter tourists from attempting it, details of more than 30 deaths await you at the base.

There are also sanitary reasons why you shouldn’t do it. A lack of toilets on the sacred rock mean that some hikers are damaging the local environment as their waste runs down into the waterholes around the rock.

For and against

Not only is the Federal Opposition party opposed, but Prime Minister Kevin Rudd rejects the proposal:

Obviously it’s a question of public safety and managing important parts of our natural landscape…I think it would be very sad if we got to a stage though where Australians and frankly our guests from abroad weren’t able to enjoy that experience…to climb it.

However, there is no shortage of folks who are fully behind the idea of an outright ban, including many tourism operators. Ultimately, the decision may rest with Environment Minister Peter Garrett, the former frontman of politically charged Midnight Oil.

Mr. Garrett has never himself climbed Uluru, instead saying he’s respected the sign at the bottom placed there by the traditional owners, which states “Please don’t climb Uluru.” Although his preference is clear, he wants to make sure the correct decision is made:

There should be a debate amongst the stakeholders: the tourism industry, indigenous people, governments and others.

Stay tuned!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Have you hiked Uluru? Would you do it despite the request from the local aboriginals to refrain?

Share your thoughts below!

The Dolomites in Italy / Photo: **Maurice**

Fresh off the World Heritage Committee’s press, 13 new places around the world have been granted the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site. There was also one subtraction from the list, and a few were shifted over to the List of World Heritage in Danger.

13 additions to keep your eye out for

Two natural sites and 11 cultural sites make up the newbies. Here they are:

1. The Wadden Sea (natural) – Spanning Germany and The Netherlands, this intertidal ecosystem is one of the largest remaining where natural processes continue undisturbed.

2. The Dolomites (natural) – I was a bit surprised this dramatic mountain range in the Italian Alps wasn’t already on the list…but there you have it.

3. Stoclet House – A “total work of art” in Belgium.

4. The Ruins of Loropéni – This old stone fortress, found to be at least 1000 years old, is the first World Heritage Site listed in Burkina Faso.

5. Cidade Velha, Historic Centre of Ribeira Grande – This Cape Verde town was the first European colonial outpost in the tropics.

6. Mount Wutai, China – 5 peaks. 53 monasteries. 500+ statues. One spot on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

7. Shushtar, Historical Hydraulic System – A water-channeling “masterpiece of creative genius” in Iran, which dates back to the 5th century BC.

8. Sulamain-Too Sacred Mountain – Too sacred for you? Maybe. This mountain sits at the crossroads of important routes on the Silk Road in Kyrgyzstan.

9. The Sacred City of Caral-Supe – A 5000-year-old archaeological site in Peru. It’s the oldest centre of civilization in the Americas.

Photo: J.C. Rojas

10. The Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty – South Korea is home to these 40 tombs, built between 1408 and 1966 to honour the memory of their ancestors.

11. The Tower of Hercules – This Spanish lighthouse has guarded the entrance of La Coruña Harbour since the late 1st century.

12. La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle – Two Swiss towns well-known for…what else, watchmaking.

13. Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal – An 18km innovative aqueduct in northeast Wales, completed in the early 1800s.

And one subtraction

In addition, there was a subtraction. The Dresden Elbe Valley in Germany lost its UNESCO World Heritage status as a result of a 4-lane bridge being constructed in the middle of the landscape.

For more details on the above places, and for other modifications to the list, visit the UNESCO World Heritage Centre website.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

UNESCO World Heritage Sites feature in many articles at Matador Trips. For sites in Asia, have a read of 13 of Asia’s Most Spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Sites and Tai Shan: A Sacred Climb.

Photo: accent on eclectic

If you’re interested in traveling to the Middle East but aren’t sure where to begin, be like the Pope: kick-start your trip through the holy land in Jordan. With its welcoming people, small size and manageable number of sacred sites, Jordan is the place to go biblical.

Mt. Nebo

Start at piney Mt. Nebo, where Moses first beheld the Promised Land of the Canaanites. In the valley below, Jerusalem’s golden dome (the Temple of the Rock) and the salty white shores of the Dead Sea glisten in the sun like the North Star did for the Three Magi.

Photo: upyernoz

If you listen carefully, you can almost hear the babbling brooks of milk and honey, the tumbling of the walls in neighboring Jericho, and the history echoing through the quilted valley below (Deuteronomy 32:49-50).

Bethany beyond the Jordan

Down by the banks of the muddy Jordan River lies Bethany beyond the Jordan. Amidst the wispy tamarisk, willow, and poplars trees, Jesus was baptized here in this once mighty river by his closest friend and companion, John the Baptist (Matthew 3:13). If you R.S.V.P. and B.Y.O. Priest you can be baptized here too.

John the Baptist loses his head

Photo: laura padgett

Heading south, you’ll soon be rewarded with breathtaking views of the crystalline waters from the lowest point on earth: the Dead Sea. From its sodium-encrusted shoreline, the windswept hills undulate towards the heavens.

Between heaven and hell, at the sleepy shepherd’s village of Mukawir, Herod the Great’s castle ruins perch precariously atop a 700m hillock.

This is where Herod Antipas, Herod the Great’s successor, had the head of John the Baptist served up on a silver platter at the request of the legendary seductress Salome, his niece and step-daughter (Matthew 14:9-12).

Sodom & Gomorrah

The further south you go, the more scandalous the stories become. Towards the Nabataean ruins of Petra, not far from the village of Safi, you’ll find Lot’s Cave. Lot and his two daughters took refuge here from the fire and brimstone that destroyed the original sin cities of Sodom and Gomorrah.

While no remains of Lot or his daughters were ever found, not far from the cave stands a pillar of salt that many believe to be what’s left of Lot’s wife. By disobeying the warnings of the angels to not look back at the razing of her beloved twin cities she was sodium-ized for all eternity (Genesis 19:30).

Photo: shioshvili

The cooler, older brother of Moses

Within hiking distance from Petra, amidst the iron-stained sandstone of Wadi Musa (the well of Moses) is Jebel Haroun. On top of this mount — revered by Muslims and Christians alike — is the tomb of Aaron, Moses’ cooler, older brother.

Pay homage here to the man described in the book of Exodus, and later popularized in church camp songs, as the one who dared to say “Pharaoh, pharaoh, hey-ho, let my people go…”

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For even more advice on where to head if you find yourself in the region, make sure you read 6 Under-the-Radar Destinations in the Middle East.

If you’d like a peek at a Matador member’s experiences traveling in the area, Middle East Travel: By the Numbers should put a smile on your face.

Photo: aaronbflickr

Most visitors to northern Chile make a beeline to the small inland town of San Pedro de Atacama and never look back. Yet, the best combination of the region’s two most rewarding natural resources — the desert and the coast — is found a few hundred miles to the southwest.

Natural diversity: from desert, to beaches, to penguins

Pan de Azucar National Park occupies over 43,000 hectares, straddling the border of Chile’s Regions II and III. There’s a thin strip of coastal paradise, flanked by miles and miles of desert stretching away from the shore.

Photo: ^riza^

Beach camping is what’s on tap. Wake up to an ocean sunrise, join the seagulls and sandpipers for a quick dip in the sea, and then relax on the sand.

Once you’ve had your fill of beach soccer, surfing, and sunbathing, take a hike to the top of the Mirador for an excellent view of the stark Atacama landscape. Ask the park rangers for more information on the Mirador walk, along with other hiking opportunities.

And don’t forget the penguins! Boats depart from Caleta for tours around Isla Pan de Azucar. There you’ll see sealions laze and bark and Humboldt penguins chatter amongst themselves on the shore.

How to get there

The park lies 800 km north of Santiago and just 30 km from Chañaral. Renting a car, which can be done in Antofagasta or Copiapó, is the most convenient way to reach Pan de Azucar. Hitchhiking is also possible, helped by the fact that Chile is probably South America’s safest country.

A third option is to take a bus to Chañaral, conveniently located on the Pan-American Highway, and then hop a minibus or collectivo to the park.

Where to stay

The four campgrounds (Caleta Pan de Azucar, Piqueros, Soldado, and Piqueros Norte) sit on long strips of white-sand beach, ten minutes from the park entrance.

Photo: ~chicchun~

Soldado and Piqueros Norte are group areas — Soldado mainly sees families, while Piqueros Norte is where young singles flock.

These two campgrounds are the best; the sites are located farther apart from each other for more privacy, and they offer the best views of the ocean. They come with a canopy, campfire ring, and table and chairs. Nearby are bathrooms and cold-water showers, plus sinks for washing dishes.

Also available are a few “fully equipped” beach cabanas, each sleeping six.

Caleta and Piqueros are less expensive but sites are cramped — your view may very well consist of the back of another tent.

Sign up for a campsite at the administration station, which is open from 8:30-12:30am and 2-6pm.

Costs

Photo: law_keven

Beach cabanas: $20,000-$40,000 CLP per night, depending on the season
Campsite at Piqueros Norte or Soldado: $3500 CLP per person, per night
Campsite at Caleta or Piqueros: $2000 CLP per person, per night
Park entrance fee: $3500 CLP per person ($1500 CLP for children)
Boatride to Isla Pan de Azucar: $5000 CLP per person

Special tip: The budget-conscious can try talking to the rangers about a “servicio.” Depending on their mood, you might be able to convince them to let you pick up litter on the beach or empty the garbage bins in the bathrooms in exchange for a night’s stay.

Additional tips

* Though Caleta has a small store, its prices are exorbitant and its selection meager. Buy food and supplies before arriving. There are also vendors who come through in the afternoon with empanadas and sweets, but you shouldn’t rely on them either.

* Pack a flashlight, matches, a knife, plastic bags for trash, sunblock, and sunglasses. These are must-haves for camping in Pan de Azucar.

* A visit in spring (October, November, and December) will give you a look at the blossoming of exotic desert plants and families of guanacos (related to llamas).

* Despite the ocean’s tempering influence, this is still the desert — it gets cold at night, so bring a good jacket and a hat to stay warm.

*If you love the night sky, you’ll love Pan de Azucar. Pack your star map for some serious star gazing.

Community Connection

Matador is the place to read up on Chile! Relevant titles include:

Destinations

Community Connection to Chile

Chile’s Best Coast Towns (which, incidentally, happens to feature Pan de Azucar)

8 Natural Wonders of Chile

10 Reasons to Base Your Study Abroad Experience in Chile

7 Reasons to Learn Spanish in Chile

What People Are Listening to in Chile

Trekking Torres Del Paines, Patagonia, Chile

Photo: versageek

The brief northern summer is when these islands, shuttered up tight three seasons of the year, open their doors, set out the lawn furniture, and throw a rope to the ferries bringing in visitors by the hundreds.

Here are six New England island locales you’ll want to hop a ferry and see, whether you’re day tripping or settling in for a longer stay.

Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts

Not far off the southern coast of Cape Cod, the Vineyard is 100 square miles of intriguing towns, forested countryside, and postcard beaches.

Photo: jlrotner

From bustling Oak Bluffs to upscale Edgartown, from the crashing waves of the Atlantic at Katama Beach to the lapping waters on the shores of the tiny fishing village Menemsha, you’ll find each of the island’s six towns has a different personality, and every beach a different atmosphere.

A campground and a hostel stand in the woods in the middle of the island, if you don’t feel like staying at one of the many B&Bs or inns. Bike and moped rentals, as well as the extensive shuttle bus system, make exploration of the island super convenient.

Don’t forget to take the two-minute ferry trip to the Vineyard’s neighboring island of Chappaquiddick. This quiet, purely residential speck of land is perfect for a day’s bike ride.

Nantucket, Massachusetts

With exclusive galleries, upscale shops, and fine dining, Nantucket is an island with a standing invitation to the wealthy. It keeps its accommodations pricey…but the beaches are free! A shuttle bus system will chauffeur you around if you don’t want to ride a bike.

Photo: Paul Keleher

In between beach basking and checking out the towns of Nantucket and ‘Sconset (short for Siasconset), you’ll find in addition to high-end attractions there are plenty of casual restaurants and shops to patronize.

Block Island, Rhode Island

They often party even during daylight hours on Block Island. Walk off the ferry and you’ll be in the middle of the action, as the majority of the clubs, restaurants, and shops are found nearby.

Although it’s loaded with B&Bs, inns, and hotels, you don’t have to stay the night to get a good feel for this 10-square-mile island. Biking or moped-ing around will let you see all the sights and soak up the atmosphere on a day trip.

Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts

Cuttyhunk is one of only two of the private Elizabeth Islands — owned by the Forbes family — that’s open to the public.

Home to about 50 year-round residents, its population “swells” to 400 in the summertime. Small, peaceful, and isolated, this is a place to escape to if you’re craving solitude.

There’s a B&B, inn, and, for those traveling in a group, cottage and house rentals.

Fishers Island, New York

Utilized during the Spanish American War to protect New York City, Fishers Island has a year-round population today that’s not much different than it was back in 1898: 300.

Photo: -= Bruce Berrien =-

This is one nearly deserted island, with long country roads, the occasional public beach, and a just few places to eat.

The Pequot Inn, the only accommodation on the island, is a big part of summer life, throwing parties that stretch into the morning hours.

Explore during the day and you’ll find this island has one of the friendliest attitudes of any on the East Coast, with locals waving out their car windows to you as they drive by.

Visitors are welcome to ferry their cars ashore from Connecticut, or you can rent a bicycle once you arrive.

Thimble Islands, Connecticut

This archipelago in the Long Island Sound just off the shore of Connecticut consists of 100 to 365 tiny islands — depending on the tide and on how big a rock has to be before you can call it an island.

Photo: author

Many are so tiny they hold just one home, and on one there’s nothing more than a gazebo. The most populated, Money Island, hosts 32 houses.

These dots of land are private, which means you can only go ashore if you know a local. However, there’s nothing stopping you from enjoying the islands on a kayak or boat tour.

Once back in the adjacent mainland town of Stony Creek, hang out for a while on the beach, walk around the relaxed residential streets, grab a bite to eat, and you’ve got yourself a unique day trip.

Community Connection

Sabina also happens to be Matador’s destination expert for Martha’s Vineyard — she’s the one to turn to if you have any questions at all on this iconic New England island. To get in touch, click over to her Matador profile, where she goes by the name Travellohr.

Have a favorite New England island that didn’t make the list? Sound off in the comments!

Photo above: gruntzooki, Feature photo: mborowick

Beirut

Did you know Democrats Abroad had a branch in Lebanon? Neither did we, but the Bekaa Valley Wine Tour they have planned for Independence Day sounds pretty sweet.

Tickets are $65 in advance or $75 day of, and naturally, all proceeds benefit Democrats Abroad Lebanon.

The American touch in Milan / Photo: Tavallai

Milan

Visiting Milan? You’re invited to a red, white, and blue event at the design museum La Triennale di Milano, taking place from 4-10pm on the Fourth.

We’re talking hamburgers and beer combined with a free English-language museum tour and children’s workshops, topped off with an American Airlines ticket giveaway.

Doors are open to all, and admission is free. For more info, click here.

Photo: laura padgett

Shanghai

Shanghai is home to a large expat population, and the local American Chamber of Commerce is putting on a July 4th shindig at the 5-star Le Meridien She Shan resort. Family activities, catered food, and live music and dancing will be on offer.

You can view the event flyer here.

The Netherlands

Seems like America’s political parties are competing for the hearts and minds of U.S. expats in Holland.

This July 4th, you can choose between a Democrats Abroad picnic in Amsterdam’s Vondelpark or a BBQ in Rotterdam organized by their counterparts at Republicans Abroad. How to decide!?

London

Fireworks fans, this one’s for you. In addition to “upscale and affordable BBQ” and “two fully stocked bars,” this event in Battersea Park features pyrotechnics.

Over 900 partiers were in attendance last year, and more than half that number have already RSVP-ed for this Saturday’s event. No charge for admission.

Singapore

Bouncy castles, soccer and tennis schools, and live music are just some of what’s going on at the strangely named Terror Club Sports Complex in Singapore this July 4th.

Admission is free — just remember to bring ID. And, as in London, the sky will be lit up with an Independence Day fireworks display.

Tokyo Disneyland / Photo: gwaar

Click here for details.

Prague

A lot of little celebrations are slated for Eastern Europe’s U.S. expat capital. Any place where Americans typically congregate will likely have something going on.

This page lists three options to check out.

Japan

Democrats Abroad is throwing down some Fourth love all over Japan.

There’s the “Barack BBQ” in Osaka’s Ogimachi Park, a celebration at the Pink Cow art bar in Tokyo, and a beach party in Kanagawa.

For info on these three events, click here.

Community Connection

Do you have info on a Fourth of July event taking place in a different corner of the world? Share it with your fellow travelers by leaving a comment.

For all you American expats out there, Brave New Traveler has some reading material you might find of interest. Check out What Can Travel Teach You About The American Dream? and How I Made Peace With My American Identity.

Staying closer to home this Saturday? Don’t miss Fourth of July Events around the U.S.

Photo above: iChaz, Feature photo: Bondseye

Go 4th on the River, New Orleans

Celebrate the Stars and Stripes in Dixie. The Big Easy puts on quite the show along the banks of the Mississippi, including a generous offering of free events and — naturally — lots of great music.

The finale comes at 9pm with the Dueling Barges Fireworks Extravaganza. Twin river barges shoot off an insane amount of firepower in one of the country’s best displays.

Details: www.go4thontheriver.com

Taste of Chicago

The Windy City’s biggest festival is about a lot more than patriotism.

Photo: spatulated

Every year, Taste of Chicago draws loads of food vendors serving up the best of classic Chicago cuisine (think deep-dish pizza, Polish sausage, and BBQ) and crowds numbering in the millions.

The best part? You don’t have to wait — the festivities have already begun, and they’ll last until July 5.

Make sure to catch the superb pyrotechnics that’ll light up the shores of Lake Michigan at 9pm, July 3.

Small Town 4th of July, Williams, AZ

America’s small towns know how to throw down just as well as its cities. The highlight of the day in Williams will be the Arizona Skyhawks, a parachuting team that plans to skydive in formation and land smack in the middle of the July 4th parade on Main Street.

Also on the program are a barbecue, corn roast, ice cream social, and the “railhead shooting competition.”

Details: www.williamschamber.com

Boston Harborfest

With over 200 events scheduled between Tuesday, June 30 and Sunday, July 5, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a dull moment at the 2009 Boston Harborfest.

Where else can you hear a reading of the Declaration of Independence, participate in a reenactment of the Boston Tea Party, and be a judge in a chowder competition?

Avery Tomato Festival, Avery, TX

Forget fireworks and freedom. Folks in Avery know what the Fourth is all about: tomatoes.

Photo: The Ewan

Contests seem to be the name of the game at this festival. Standouts include competitions to determine the Best Tomato Hat and Ugliest Tomato, a Horseshoe Tournament, the Tomato Festival Queen Pageant…the list goes on.

And don’t worry, you’ll get your fireworks too.

Details: http://cityofavery.com

Family 4th, Seattle

Seattle does it up right for the kiddos.

Bring your children to Gas Works Park and set them loose in the Playfield, which features giant inflatable slides, kite flying, circus workshops, and something called a “Monkey Motion Quad Pod.” The event website provides lots of safety info as well.

Adults will enjoy the beer garden and pub trivia, and the fireworks encore at 10pm is one of the best in the U.S.

Blueberry Pancake Breakfast, Freeport, ME

Celebrate the Fourth in Freeport, the well-touristed home of L.L. Bean, and you can get in on the fun run, clambake, and 9pm fireworks display.

Photo: rjs1322

But we know what you really came for — the blueberry pancakes. Grab a stack downtown at St. Jude Hall.

Details: www.freeportmaine.com

National Independence Day Parade, Washington, D.C.

Fans of the traditional July 4th parade need look no farther than D.C. The National Independence Day Parade takes place at 11:45am along Constitution Ave. (between the National Mall and the White House).

Marching bands from around the country, decorative floats, military drill teams, and VIP appearances make up this official holiday event.

Community Connection

Planning to spend the Fourth in the Big Apple? You might want to reread this post: Statue of Liberty’s Crown to Reopen.

What are you doing for the Fourth? Trips wants to hear from you — leave a comment!

Photo: th0mi

Here are seven tips on saving cash in the Emerald City:

1. Skip the Space Needle

The Space Needle costs $16 for one adult and, in my opinion, is highly overrated. For $7.50, head up to the observation deck at the Smith Tower in Seattle’s historical Pioneer Square neighborhood instead. You’ll get a great view of Puget Sound, the Cascades, the Olympic Range, Mount Rainier, and downtown Seattle.

For just $5 on weekdays, you can also access the observation deck at Columbia Tower — the tallest building in the Pacific Northwest. There may not be 360-degree views, but it still beats the Needle.

Photo: Foxtongue

2. Travel by bus

With a little extra planning, you can avoid an expensive rental car and exorbitant parking fees. Seattle’s metro buses will get you anywhere you need to go, and they’re (mostly) on time. Prices are $2 for peak hours and $1.75 for other times, although in the downtown core buses are free of charge from 6am to 7pm.

Not sure you can do it? Relax, they’ve made it easy for newbies. First, check out the King County Metro Guide, then use Google Maps or King County’s online Trip Planner to find a route.

You can also use One Bus Away, either online or by phone, to see if your ride is on schedule. Drivers are generally considerate and helpful, so feel free to ask questions or directions.

3. Walk

The best way to save money and get a little exercise is to walk; downtown Seattle is compact and easy to navigate. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes for the hills!

Golden Gardens sunset / Photo: pfly

4. Hike locally

National Parks charge an entrance fee, but Seattle’s urban parks won’t cost you a cent. Puget Sound’s Discovery Park is close to downtown and contains 12 miles of hiking trails, a lighthouse, steep bluffs, beaches, mountain views, sand dunes, forest, streams, and meadows.

If you’re looking for a lazy way to spend a sunset, try Golden Gardens’ beach with views of the Olympics, or Kerry Park’s postcard view of downtown and Mt. Rainier. Buses run regularly to each of the parks.

5. Eat in the International District

For under $10 (and sometimes under $5), you can buy your fill of pho (Vietnamese noodle soup), sweet and sour chicken, bubble tea, or Vietnamese sandwiches in the International District, just south of downtown. Plus, as a true pan-Asian neighborhood, the ID is worth a ramble.

From the teashops to the obligatory Chinatown gate, and on to the dragons climbing the light posts, you can spend an entire afternoon in the district. At Uwajimaya, the giant Asian supermarket, you’ll get lost in the aisles of noodles, sake, and Hello Kitty merchandise.

For a belly full of cheap food, try Ga Ga Loc (Chinese), Green Leaf (Vietnamese), or happy hour at Kaname Izakaya (Japanese).

6. Get into the museums for free

Several Seattle museums are free the first Thursday of every month. Schedule your visit right and you can get into the Experience Music Project, the Museum of Flight, the Seattle Art Museum, and more, all free of charge. For a complete list of museums and their hours, check out this useful Seattle Times article.

Photo: Mie Tigas

7. Tour the landmarks

Seattle’s major points of interest are free. It’s impossible to pass up famous Pike Place Market, where you can sample fresh local food, gaze upon the colorful flower arrangements, browse nearly 200 craft vendors, listen to street performers, and watch the “Fish Guys” toss seafood at the Fish Market.

A few blocks away, explore the neon escalators and bizarre chambers of downtown’s Central Library, in all its geometric glory.

Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood is charming and walkable, with Nordic influences and cozy coffee shops and pubs. The Ballard Locks, where local and Alaskan fishing ships pass and salmon swim the fish ladder, is free to the public.

The neighborhood of Fremont is famous for its public art including the Fremont Troll, an imposing Vladimir Lenin, and the oft-decorated Waiting for the Interurban. Just a short walking distance away is Gas Works Park, where locals fly kites or picnic on the hills with a backdrop of Lake Union’s sailboats and the skyline.

When to go: Locals promise sun-soaked summers from July 4 until Labor Day, but June and September can also be mild and sunny.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If cheap and free is your kind of price, find out how you can visit Berlin on the Cheap and check out 10 Volunteer Opportunities For Free Travel.

Photo: jezarnold

Here at Matador, we love the weird, wacky, and surreal. So naturally we took note when the Dir Journal Info Blog published a list of Abandoned Places in the World.

The reasons and urgency that lead a group of people to just up and leave a place are varied: obsolete technology, depleted resources, natural or man-made disasters. But whatever the case, there will always be people who are drawn to destinations like these.

I’ll admit, I enjoy dipping into a cemetery to walk amongst the buried, reading the epitaphs, marveling at the intricate artwork and over-the-top mausoleums while reflecting on life.

Maybe the attraction of visiting an abandoned city is a similar feeling — the emptiness and loneliness, wondering where these people (or their offspring) might be now.

Oradour-sur-Glane / Photo: Verity Cridland

Dir Journal Info Blog’s article lists 15 places around the world from where humans have walked away, leaving the remnants of a once active area.

It includes Pripyat, Ukraine, which was abandoned within two days in 1986 because of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster; Centralia in Pennsylvania, cleared out over 20+ years due to an underground coal-mine fire that’s been burning since 1962, which has made it too hazardous to live there; and Oradour-sur-Glane, France, a town that lost 600 lives and was subsequently destroyed by the German SS in 1944.

Others are Kolmaneskuppe, Namibia, a former diamond mining town whose population steadily declined after WWI, when diamond prices crashed, and Balestrino, Italy, whose inhabitants were moved in 1953 after several earthquakes brought them to the conclusion that the area was geologically unstable.

For more information and some interesting photos, make sure you check out the Abandoned Places in the World article.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Are you interested in visiting places that have been abandoned? Or is it too creepy? Have you been to any that you can add to the list? Please share below!

Photo: {meagen}

Photography Lovers

Michigan Central / Photo: country_boy_shane

Dotted with the ruins of abandoned buildings and dilapidated houses covered in colorful graffiti, the landscape of Detroit looks good in the viewscreen.

The city’s gritty feel and faded beauty translates well to film, whether you choose to evoke nostalgia with shots of empty iconic buildings, or to document the slow decay of an industrial city in a post-industrial age with images of factories long forgotten.

Michigan Central Station is one of the city’s most recognizable monuments. It’s illegal, though not unusual, for photographers to slip inside to capture the crumbling opulence of its interior. If you want to join them, hurry. There’s talk of demolition.

Art Lovers

Art in Detroit is everywhere.

In fact, spurred by ridiculously low home prices (the city average was $11,533 in April), artists may actually be the only people moving to Detroit right now.

Both the Detroit Artists Market and the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit, housed in a converted graffiti-covered warehouse, host internationally acclaimed exhibitions of visual, performing, and multimedia arts.

Detroit Institute of Art / Photo: dana.ocker

The world-class Detroit Institute of Arts has one of the largest collections in the world, with works from Monet, Degas, van Gogh, Matisse, and Picasso, and a series of murals (depicting Detroit factory workers) by Diego Rivera.

Wander an open-air art installation at the Heidelberg Project, a street of abandoned houses covered in polka dots, stuffed animals, and scrap metal that resembles a twisted Wonderland, or just take in a showing at restaurants like Cass Café and The Majestic.

Music Lovers

From Motown greats like Aretha Franklin and Diana Ross (whose careers are among those commemorated at the Hitsville USA Motown Museum) to rock darlings the White Stripes, Detroit has a long tradition of fostering musical talent.

See the next Detroit Cobras or Dirtbombs — before they hit it big — at intimate clubs like the Old Miami, the Magic Stick, the Lager House, and Cadieux Café. The Detroit Electronic Music Fest, held every Memorial Day weekend, features some of the best DJs and electronic music producers in the world.

To indulge more classical tastes, check out a performance at the opera or symphony.

Booze Lovers

Detroit’s a drinking town, and no matter what you fancy you’ll find it here.

Photo: No Trams To Lime Street

Drink with the city’s elite at the bar at the stately Whitney mansion, or rub elbows with war veterans in the casual backyard of the Old Miami.

Sip cocktails and dance in your club couture at Deluxe, or rock out to the jukebox at the dark, divey Bronx Bar.

Or just relax with a microbrew at one of the city’s three breweries, such as Motor City, home of the Ghettoblaster Ale.

Food Lovers

An influx of immigrants from around the world means Detroit is the place to come for some of the most authentic Polish, Mexican, Greek, and Middle Eastern food this side of the Atlantic. Head to Mexican Village, Polish Village, or Greektown for their respective cuisines, or take a short drive to Dearborn for Middle Eastern.

If you’re in the mood for something a little more local, check out Union Street for American comfort food with a twist or head to newcomer Slows, which churns out Detroit’s best barbecue and a killer bourbon lemonade (just come prepared for a long wait).

And of course, no visit would be complete without tasting the ubiquitous Detroit Coney dog.

Bargain Lovers

Economic woes for residents equal rock-bottom prices for visitors. Detroit has always been cheap, but deteriorating financial conditions mean even more discounts and deals.

Dollar drafts and 2-for-1 drinks at happy hour? Check. A filling and delicious meal for under $10? Check. Free museums, no-cover live music clubs, and ample free parking? Check, check, and check.

It’s easy to live large in Detroit on a small budget, and thanks to discount bus company Megabus, low rates on Amtrak, and cheap fares into Northwest’s hub, it doesn’t cost a lot to get here either.

Underdog Lovers

As the butt of countless jokes, it’s easy to kick Detroit while it’s down.

Eastern Market / Photo: ellievanhoutte

But if you’re a sucker for a lost cause, you may just be charmed by the city’s unwavering community pride in the face of such depression.

The people of Detroit understand their city has problems, but many are choosing to rally their neighbors and fight for change rather than sit idly by and watch the city decay further.

Detroit’s refusal to let go of the past is immediately evident, but when you look a little deeper you also see a small — but growing — ray of hope for the future.

Community Connection

For more of Katie’s perspective on her hometown, check out her Matador community blog post My Motor City.

Matador member Pap of Glencoe is another Motown native. Visit her Matador profile to connect.

Beach at the Green Turtle Lodge / Photo above and feature photo: Stig Nygaard

1. Zebrabar

Location: near Saint-Louis, Senegal

At this upscale campground, human-size monkeys cross the beach and a resident zebra playfully steals guests’ belongings.

Photo: author

With a river that’s safe for swimming and a deserted ocean beach, Zebrabar accommodates the solo backpacker as well as families with young children, making it a fabulous place to meet travelers from all over the globe.

During the high tourist season around New Year, birders flock to the campgrounds to explore National Park Langue de Barbarie.

But from June to September, just a handful of guests are around to relax in the resort’s hammocks, paddle kayaks across the river, and gather for three-course dinners at the water’s edge.

Website: http://www.zebrabar.net
Cost: $13/night for a single bungalow with shared bath, $19/night for a double
Currency: West African CFA franc
Language: French. Swiss owners also speak English and German.
Getting there: Taxi from Saint-Louis (30 minutes)
Tip: If you’re not a bird watcher, go in the off season (June to September) to have things all to yourself.

2. Green Turtle Lodge

Location: near Cape Coast, Ghana

Backpackers and volunteers in Ghana talk about Green Turtle as though it were the very definition of paradise, which it might well be compared to some of the country’s other accommodations.

Solar-powered bungalow / Photo: Stig Nygaard

This is a true getaway from the hustle of Ghana’s cities, and since it revolves around environment- and community-oriented tourism, there’s no need to feel guilty for lounging here for days on end.

Visit nearby fishing villages, canoe through mangroves, and stroll the beach looking for the sea turtles that nest here between October and March.

The highlight of the day? When the cook posts the menu. From coconut fish curry to jam on homemade bread, the food is cheap — a few dollars for a meal — and tasty.

Website: http://www.greenturtlelodge.com
Cost: $4 for a tent, $5 for a dorm bed, $20 for a double chalet with shared bath
Currency: Cedi
Language: English
Getting there: Bush taxi from Cape Coast (several hours)
Tip: If it’s raining, pass on the tent and spring for a bed instead. Book one from within Ghana by text message, since cell service is spotty at the resort.

3. Kribi

Location: southwest Cameroon

Relaxing in Kribi / Photo: gizzle

This isn’t one resort; it’s an entire beach town overflowing with hotels for you to choose from. Some are pricey for the backpacker’s budget, but once you get a taste of the spectacular coastline and succulent seafood, you’ll see that Kribi is worth splurging for a few days.

The town is also home to one of the world’s few freshwater falls that feeds directly into the ocean.

Nightlife here is hoppin’! Bars and clubs are crowded until late, and street vendors hawk grilled fish and brochettes — meat on skewers — to accompany the ubiquitous 22-ounce beers.

Cost: Budget hotels at $20/room, others starting at $35/room
Currency: Central African CFA franc
Language: French
Getting there: Bush taxi from Douala (several hours)
Tip: Prices are negotiable in the off season, particularly if you’re willing to forgo air conditioning.

Community Connection

After splurging in Kribi, why not keep heading south to check out Trips’ 5 Reasons to Go to Angola in 2009 (And Beyond) with your own eyes?

Or hang out longer in Cameroon to investigate Volunteer Opportunities in Africa.

And for those who think beaches are a bit dull, may we suggest coming Face to Face with South Africa’s Great Whites?

Photo: aka*kirara

Cotswolds, England

Nobody embraces tea more seriously than the English. Famous world over for its stone-built villages, historical towns, and rolling green hills, there’s no better place to experience tea time than the English Cotswolds.

Sip Earl Grey amongst drooping willows and lazy streams at the birthplace of William Shakespeare, in Stratford-upon-Avon, and you may be inspired to write a few sonnets of your own.

Photo: Author

Chengdu, China

Chinese green tea is as famous in the East as Earl Grey is in the West. For the best in Chinese teahouse culture, head to Chengdu.

Traditionally venues for conversation, light eating, and ear cleaning (a service performed by professionals with mini-lances and swabs, followed by an energizing shoulder massage), Chengdu teahouses have evolved into both trendy hotspots for dating and nightlife as well as sanctuaries of quiet relaxation.

At the south bridge of Dujiang Weir, enjoy a relaxing afternoon outside with a bottomless pot of your choice for around 20 yuan ($3).

And yes, you can still have your ears professionally lanced.

Ganzi, Tibetan Plateau

After passing over 13,000ft mountain passes to the Tibetan Plateau, Chinese green gives way to its western cousin, butter tea. A mainstay of the local diet, generous portions of (often rancid) butter and salt give Tibetan tea a uniquely unpleasant flavor that is undoubtedly an acquired taste.

Tibetans take advantage of the butter’s oils to protect their lips from the high-altitude sun. Consequently, the higher you go, the more butter in your tea.

Photo: Author

Although situated in West Sichuan and not the Tibetan Autonomous Region, the town of Ganzi is culturally more Tibetan than most of Tibet.

Wander the old town, overlooked by a hilltop monastery (home to over 500 Buddhist monks), and you’ll find yourself lost among faded prayer flags and elderly patrons slowly spinning prayer wheels.

Since the 2008 Tibetan uprisings, in which Ganzi was an epicenter of violent protest, West Sichuan has been out of bounds to most foreigners. If you make it to this remote mountain town and duck into one of the many local guesthouses for tea, you’ll likely be the only Westerner they’ll see for weeks.

Photo: Author

Marrakech, Morocco

Sipping hot mint tea in the souks of Marrakech, Morocco, entails more than you might expect.

You sit among boiling cauldrons of lamb heads, watching as your tea is poured from large steaming copper kettles at arm’s length into tiny palm-sized glasses.

The addictive sweet mint tea is served throughout the day. Alcohol is regarded as taboo in traditional circles in this Muslim nation, so mint tea acts as the social beverage of choice.

At the local food stalls in the Djemaa el Fna, in the heart of the old city, grab a cup with the locals in the evenings for around $0.10 a glass.

Cuzco, Peru

The coca leaf, notorious for its roll as the principal ingredient in cocaine, has been used for centuries in Andean tea.

Photo: sdpuckett

Among the Inca-descended Quechua in particular, the ancient brew is still consumed to alleviate the effects of life at altitude.

Try the tea in the mountain city of Cuzco, where tourist accommodations offer a complementary cup on arrival.

At nearly 11,000 ft above sea level, your body will thank you for downing a draught of the coca concoction, especially if you’ve just gotten in from Lima and the coast.

Nashville, USA

Served on ice with a squeeze of lemon on a hot Tennessee afternoon…it’s not hard to understand why American Southerners love their sweet tea. What better place than the home of country music to experience it for yourself?

Located 30 minutes from downtown Nashville along a narrow country road sits Barbara’s Home Cookin’, a local “meat an’ three” joint. One sip of Barbara’s homemade sweet tea, accompanied by a lunch of her fried chicken and fresh pie, and you’ll be humming “Rocky Top Tennessee” for a week.

Community Connection

Tea fans might also enjoy reading about 11 Herbs That Ease Common Travel Ailments. Also, make sure to check out Hidden Hope: A Visit to a Sri Lankan Tea Estate.

1.A view from the “Going to the Sun” road. Photo by .Bala.

2.Bits of glacier dotting the mountains. Photo by fddi1.

3.Birthplace of the watershed. Photo by fddi1.

4.The path to Hidden Lake at Logan Pass. Photo by fddi1.

5.Bear in early summer. Feature photo and photo above by Gregg Treinish.

6.Sunset over Glacier National Park. Photo by backpackphotography.

7.A cloudy day at Glacier. Photo by mtsrs.

8.A mountain goat lingering in the shadows. Photo by Gregg Treinish.

9.A lone house in the wilderness. Photo by .Bala.

10.Bluebird day at Glacier. Photo by celebdu.

11.Upper headwaters in Glacier. Photo by celebdu.

12.Lake Josephine. Photo by Navin75.

13.Grinnell Lake. Photo by Navin75.

Community Connection

Interested in visiting Glacier or elsewhere in Montana? Matador has put together one of the most comprehensive resources for Big Sky you’ll find anywhere, including locals’ recommendations for trails, rivers, mountains, restaurants, and bars.

Photo above: tylerdurden1, Feature photo: Carrie Musgrave | Livebabylive.com

Practicalities

South Korea’s size makes road tripping an attractive option. Vehicles can easily be rented at Incheon International Airport and through many hotels in Seoul.

Tip: Try to reserve an LNG-ready car. The cost of this alternative fuel is about a quarter that of gasoline.

The following standout spots fall in a clockwise route, beginning in the capital.

Seoul

Best to wait on the car rental for a few days while you make use of the subway to sample Seoul’s best.

Culture: Gyeongbokgung Palace
Start at one of the grandest palaces in the country, dating from 1395. In addition to the impressive Throne Hall and a pavilion virtually floating in a pond, the National Folk Museum is also on the grounds.

The photogenic changing of the guard takes place at 10:00, 13:00, 14:00, and 16:00 daily outside the main gate. Admission: $3 USD.

Photo: yeowatzup

Shopping: Insadong
A short walk from Gyeongbokgung is Insadong, the best traditional market in town. Grab lunch at one of the many old-school restaurants before strolling through the art galleries and craft shops. Afternoons often see folk music and traditional dancing exhibitions.

People watching: Myeongdong
Next, an introduction to Seoul chic. Myeongdong is the place to go to find trendy name-brand stores and hip clientele. Try to hit the narrow alleys when they truly come to life — after work — when Seoulites stroll past designer boutiques while munching gourmet street food.

Views: N Seoul Tower
You’ve most likely caught a glimpse of the N Seoul Tower, standing tall on Namsan Mountain. A cable car ($6 USD round trip) will shuttle you up the mountain to the base of the needle, from where you can ascend to the tower’s observatory level ($3 USD) for city panoramas. The tower also houses a rotating restaurant.

Nightlife: Hongdae
Underground DJs thumping into the wee hours, chill acoustic or rock sounds spilling from cramped bars, and luxury noraebangs (karaoke rooms) — this is Hongdae, the city’s #1 choice for watching the sun come up. Get there via the subway’s green line.

History: DMZ tour
The most popular tour in Korea ($40 to $80 USD) will take you to one of the most mysterious and heavily guarded strips of land on the planet. Everything from half- to two-day tours are available.

Shuffle down infiltration tunnels (dug by the North), browse the DMZ museum, gaze out over the zone and portions of North Korea from the Dora Observatory, and take a moment to read the heartbreaking notes tacked on the Freedom Bridge (used to exchange POWs after the Korean War).

All told, it’ll leave you with a lot to consider on your 90-minute bus ride back to Seoul.

Stop 1: Northeast Coast

Okay, it’s now time to hop behind the wheel and hit the road.

Photo: Ryuugakusei

Seoraksan National Park
Seoraksan has it all: hiking, wildlife, and history.

The park is at its best in autumn, when the colors of its foliage rival those of New England.

Take the cable car ($5 USD) up to Gwongeumseong Fortress to gaze over the spectacular peaks and rock cliffs of this park. Or, if the line’s too long, put your boots to work.

Sokcho
This charming port town on the East Sea is the perfect base camp for a park visit. Browse the seaside fish markets for dinner, then knock back some of that famous Korean alcohol, soju, while listening to the waves crash on the rocky coast — the perfect post-hike chillout.

Stop 2: Gyeongju

Photo: Photocapy

This ancient capital town provides endless opportunities to delve further into the peninsula’s history.

The Silla tombs, twenty massive burial mounds standing almost 50 feet tall, rise out of central Tumuli Park.

Kite fliers and picnickers relax in the shadow of Korea’s oldest structure, an astronomical observatory built in 627.

Gyeongju National Museum, loaded with artifacts found in nearby Anapji Pond, is a worthwhile stop on your way to Bulguksa Temple in the mountains above town. From here, you can walk even higher to the Seokguram Grotto and its well-visited Buddha statue that looks out over the East Sea.

Stop 3: Busan

Haeundae Beach
It’s time to kick back on the southern coast, Busan style. Get up early to snag a spot on Korea’s most popular beach, Haeundae. In the peak season (i.e., any nice weekend and all of August), umbrellas saturate the 2 km of sand.

If the crowds are too much for you, check out one of the other five beaches Busan is famous for.

Photo: yeowatzup

Heosimcheong Spa
Reportedly the largest hot springs in Asia, Heosimcheong ($5 USD) lies 10 km north of central Busan in the district of Dongnae. Remember to shower before slipping into the nearly 55-degree Celsius (130 Fahrenheit) pools.

Different aromatherapy and herbal tubs are available for soaking, while masseuse and scrubbing services are provided for a fee.

Jagalchi Fish Market
Right on the waterfront in the heart of central Busan is this busy market. Wander the pungent stalls, make a purchase, then take your pick to one of the nearby seafood restaurants and they’ll prepare it for you — most likely raw, sashimi style.

When you’ve finished dinner, head to Texas Street, opposite the Busan train station, to take in the nightlife of Korea’s second largest city.

Stop 4: Gwangju

Gwanju played a key role in the development of the modern Korean state in the 20th century.

In 1929, local students took part in one of the fiercest anti-Japanese uprisings of the entire 35-year occupation. 1980 saw hundreds of civilians killed at the hands of the army during a protest against the military government, an event known today as the Gwangju Democratization Movement.

Residents are rightly proud of their recent history, and a defiant student art culture persists.

The Gwanju National Museum gives you a chance to learn about the region’s more distant past. Follow that up with a visit to the surreally shaped rock cliffs of nearby Mt. Mudeung.

Photo: Wm Jas

Stop 5: Gunsan Islands

If you have time, park the car in the west coast port town of Gunsan and hop a ferry to Seonyudo Island for a day or longer.

The pace is island-slow (except during holidays), and the seafood is some of the country’s best. The white-sand beaches may convince you to stay longer than you’d planned.

Seonyudo is connected by bridges to a couple smaller islands, and renting a bicycle or 4-wheeler for some solo exploration is also rewarding.

Stop 6: Suwon and Yongin

Korean Folk Village
In Suwon, step into history at the Korean Folk Village ($10 USD). It features over 200 authentically reproduced and renovated structures from all corners of the country and traditional performances like tightrope walking, aerial acrobatics, music, dancing, and horsemanship.

Photo: Nagyman

Everland
Ranked as the 10th best park in the world by the Themed Entertainment Association, Everland (day passes from $26 USD) will help you unleash your inner child.

The park is divided into four themed sections, as well as a newly renovated water park, Caribbean Bay. Try to get to the park on a weekday, when lines are more tolerable.

There’s an excellent range of rides, climaxing with a white-knuckle scream-fest aboard the world’s largest inclined wooden coaster, T-Express.

From here, it’s a quick shot up the highway and back into Seoul.

Community Connection

Destinations

Community Connection to South Korea

Jon Wick is also the author of Chaos, Culture and Kim Chi: A Korean Cafeteria.

Before you even set foot on the peninsula, check out these 10 Korean Customs To Know Before You Visit Korea.

And, if your quick visit should turn into a longer stay, best read up on How To Get A Job Teaching English In Korea, as the country is one of the Top 10 Places for Teaching English Abroad.

To connect with other Matador members based in Korea, click on the box to the left.

All photos by author

Montana’s Beartooth Scenic Highway (Hwy 212) winds its way over the spine of the Rocky Mountains at 10,970 feet, linking Red Lodge to Cooke City at Yellowstone National Park’s Northeast Entrance. But this byway is more than tight switchbacks and sharp, snowy granite mountains.

Here are six ways to explore this route’s unique terrain and local culture:

1. Spring Skiing on Beartooth Pass

For expert skiers and snowboarders wanting to get a few more turns this summer: bring your skis or board. The couloirs at Beartooth Pass are skiable or ridable until early July and sometimes later, and there’s chairlift access until July 4.

Beartooth Pass has been a historic late-season training area. In 1966, the U.S. Olympic team used the bowl just below the road’s highpoint for training, leaving their equipment behind for the public.

There are plenty of other places along the highway where late-season snowfields are accessible if you don’t mind hiking or hitching rides with tourists traveling up the highway. There is no terrain there for beginners, however. Everything is steep and avalanches are common, especially in the non-lift-accessed areas.

2. National Ski Jouring Finals, Red Lodge

Ski Jouring is like water skiing on snow, where the skier is pulled by sled dogs or horses. Competitors weave through an obstacle course of slalom gates and jumps, sometimes reaching 25 mph. The second day of the Finals includes a big air competition with jumps lofting skiers up to 60 feet.

3. Ride at the Bear Tooth Rally

2009’s Bear Tooth Rally runs from July 17-19. Thousands of riders will be converging on Red Lodge for a series of events including a ride from Red Lodge up and through Beartooth Pass into Cooke City, then looping back to Red Lodge along the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. It’s a round trip of approximately 120 miles, covered in a single day.

There’s also a ‘poker ride’ up the pass, and the Iron Horse Rodeo, where bikers show off their skills piloting their 700 lb steeds on loose dirt around a series of barrels.

4. Snowmobiling in Cooke City

Sledding in this Beartooth region is world class; just ask the development teams of both Arctic Cat and Yamaha. Both companies use the area as testing grounds for their newest equipment. Cooke City has one of the longest winter-sports seasons in the lower 48, with plenty of varied terrain.

5. Festivals and events in Red Lodge and Cooke City

Red Lodge and Cooke City both have rich local histories they celebrate each summer. Red Lodge has the infamous Mountain Man Rendezvous, where participants reenact the old days when trappers gathered to trade supplies, gamble, tell tall tales, fight, and get roaring drunk.

In contrast, the Festival of Nations, held the third week in August, is a much tamer but equally interesting festival. It began as a yearly gathering of immigrant laborers, working in mines and on farms, who would show off the dances and cuisine of their homelands.

Be ready to eat worldly food, watch traditionally dressed performers, and participate in various workshops showcasing skills brought from the Old Country.

Cooke City upholds their less eclectic traditions with their Spring Fling celebration, complete with live music, hog roast, and charity auction hocking everything from arts and crafts to snowmobile parts. The Cooke City Fish Fry has been a town-wide shindig since the 1920s, starting as a last hurrah to get people together before the heavy snow plunged the town into isolation.

In the early days, the Fry included boxing, horse racing, and gambling. Though it’s more sedate now, it’s still worth checking out if you’re in the area on the first weekend in August.

Beartooth Falls

6. The Great Outdoors (hiking, fishing, and mountaineering)

While it’s possible to take in the scenery from the road, being truly immersed in the Beartooth Wilderness is what being here is all about. There are over 700 miles of trails in the region, as well 300 lakes, some of them so remote they have yet to be named. The fish here see so few hooks that they grow to. . . mythical proportions.

Beartooth Plateau has the distinction of being the largest true high-elevation plateau in the continental U.S. There are heaps of climbing options with 25 over-12,000ft peaks, including Granite Peak at 12,807 — Montana’s highest.

While the elevation may seems low by western standards, the harsh conditions lead to a treeline that’s thousands of feet lower, exposing the craggy, vertical rock.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Experience Montana this summer! Matador has spent the spring creating a one-stop resource for planning great Montana roadtrips, whether you want to go backpacking, paddling, or just hit up some of the local bars, restaurants, and breweries.

Photo: Ken Lund

The L.A. Times’ online travel section recently published a list of trivia on Mt. Rushmore, the U.S. national memorial featuring the faces of four American presidents carved into a granite cliff in South Dakota’s Black Hills.

Intended to share various fun facts on a national icon, the list includes entries such as:

Photo: StuSeeger

* George Washington has the longest nose of the four.
* Ninety percent of the carving work was carried out with dynamite.
* Thomas Jefferson was originally positioned on Washington’s right, but this face was blown up and a new one carved between Washington and Roosevelt.

Yet, the article also relates a few obscure historical points about the monument that raise eyebrows in a different way:

1. The lead sculptor may have been a member of the KKK.

Gutzon Borglum was the man charged with creating the monument in 1927.

Photo: Peter Kaminski

However, immediately prior to this, he had been laboring on a different project: the Confederate Memorial Carving on Stone Mountain, Georgia.

This is the largest bas-relief in the world and depicts Confederate leaders Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee, and “Stonewall” Jackson.

Its construction was funded in large part by Georgia’s Ku Klux Klan.

Though Borglum didn’t finish the job, he became pretty chummy with KKK leaders during his time at Stone Mountain, and his experiences there directly influenced his work on Mt. Rushmore.

2. The Black Hills are stolen land.

In 1868, the U.S. government signed a treaty with various American Indian peoples guaranteeing Indian ownership of the Black Hills forever. Just nine years later the government took back the land (there’s a term for that, isn’t there?) following the discovery of gold in the Black Hills.

In other words, a proud monument commemorating heroes of American democracy sits on land acquired through lies.

Photo: KimonBerlin

The U.S. Supreme Court ruled in 1980 that the Black Hills had been illegally seized and ordered the federal government to pay $105 million to the American Indians still residing in the region.

The money was refused.

What’s more, on another cliff just 17 miles from Rushmore, a new monument is slowly taking shape. Its subject is Crazy Horse, the famous Oglala Lakota leader.

Progress is slow, due to the desire of those involved to avoid using government funds. But when completed, it will be nearly 10 times as tall as Mt. Rushmore — the largest statue in the world.

More than a monument

If you’re one of the 3 million visitors to Mt. Rushmore this year, make sure to keep the above “trivia” in mind.

Like any travel destination, there’s more here than meets the eye.

Community Connection

Rapid City, South Dakota, isn’t just the gateway to Mt. Rushmore, but also to Pristine America.

If you get fired up on history, you’ll enjoy these other Matador titles:
10 Key Destinations For The Historical Time Traveler
How to Take a Foreign History Crash Course in 5 Steps

Photo: Wonderlane

An hour’s drive through the desert from either La Paz or Los Cabos will bring you to the wonderfully strange Pacific coast town of Todos Santos.

Imagine a Marin County artists’ colony crossed with a sleepy Mexican pueblo. Throw in a handful of baby-boomer tourists and a literal oasis of palm trees and cool blue water surrounded on three sides by desert and on one by the Pacific.

On a dark desert highway…

The main attraction in Todos Santos is — and has been since 1947 — the Hotel California.

Photo: author

While this particular hotel didn’t actually inspire the Eagles’ song, it’s easy to see why that myth has been so persistent: the “dark desert highway” that leads you there, the candlelit alcoves, the funky combination of modern art and Mexican handicrafts, the mysterious air of the old building.

You can almost believe it’s a hallucination, or a song.

It’s worth the splurge to spend a night or more in one of the comfortable, colorful rooms (each one’s different), especially if you’re traveling with your sweetie.

Either way, drop by for a shot (or a margarita) of the Hotel California’s award-winning tequila in the hotel bar, La Coronela — or check out the stars (and wild modern art) from the outdoor dining room as you sip.

More digs

For the backpacker’s budget, Todos Santos and the nearby town of Pescadero offer relatively few, but extremely cool, accommodations.

In Pescadero, Jaime’s Surf Camp gives you the option of camping-style palapas or more private casitas — AND a BYOB swim-up bar. Also get deals on surfboard and boogie board rentals, as well as a shuttle to the beach. Pizza and beer (and reggae night on Wednesdays) are within easy walking distance.

In Todos Santos, try La Sirena — again, rentals for ocean sports and basic but comfy casitas with a shared kitchen at reasonable prices.

Photo: kumar303

Run by American expat and turtle warrior Francesca and her Mexican partner (and their two bicultural kiddos), you’ll get friendly advice on how to best spend your time in Baja, including tips on hikes, wildlife viewing, great food, and of course all things turtle-related.

Or, you can always go for the classic surf vacation option of camping on the beach — for free.

Away from the surf and sand

If you tire of the beach, the Todos Santos museum is free, and a weird, disorganized, and oddly fascinating jumble of local history (including haunting photos of Todos Santos’ founding families), reproductions of Frida Kahlo paintings, the work of local artists, and artifacts from the indigenous groups that once inhabited the area.

Photo: Tokyo Tanenhaus

While Baja doesn’t have much to offer in the way of local handicrafts (most of the ones you’ll see for sale are from Oaxaca and Tlaxcala), it has local artists in abundance.

You could easily spend an entire afternoon browsing the galleries, and if you take a look at one of the local papers or magazines, there’s a good chance you’ll find an opening, reading, or at least a yoga class to attend.

Ask around for directions to the oasis when the heat gets to be too much. Swimming under towering palm trees, plucking a convenient mango when you get hungry — the whole trip might just be worth it, right there.

Community Connection

Destinations

Community Connection to Mexico

But…Is Traveling to Mexico Dangerous? Read Julie Schwietert’s take and decide for yourself.

Matador contributor Misty Tosh knows Baja well. Make sure to give her piece on The Ultimate Baja Escape a read.

Many community blogs have also been written on the region.

There are plenty of opportunities to give back in Baja. For starters, click over to First Person Dispatch: Caring for Orphaned Kids in Mexico and Saving Turtles in Baja California Sur, Mexico.

Map courtesy of Vision of Humanity / Feature photo: woordenaar

It’s nice to know that amongst the crime, corruption, and political dissent in today’s world we can rely on some places to go where we can feel relatively safe. The Global Peace Index 2009 has found New Zealand to be the most peaceful nation on the planet, usurping Iceland for top spot.

The GPI, however, doesn’t paint a rosy picture overall. As Vision of Humanity states, the results suggest that the world has become slightly less peaceful in the past year. This could be due to increased conflict in some areas and rising food and fuel costs globally. Rising unemployment, falling housing prices, and lack of savings are also contributors.

Photo: kjohn493

New Zealand: A diamond in the rough

The Kiwis have got it good, according to the GPI. Ranked 3rd in last year’s index, it made the move to number one due partly to greater political stability combined with Iceland’s fall (which is attributed to some violent demonstrations and perceived criminality in the wake of a large banking collapse).

Other factors that play in NZ’s favour are the low homicide rate, high level of respect for human rights, and harmonious relationships with neighbouring countries (i.e. Australia). As far as the military goes, New Zealand also scores points for how little it spends on the military (George Dubbya would have problems with this concept) and also its low numbers in exports of conventional weapons.

Not just lush valleys and snowy peaks

As if New Zealand didn’t already offer enough reasons to visit or relocate there, the GPI this year is another notch in the belt. Now you can bungee jump, swim with dolphins, wind surf, snowboard, explore caves, visit volcanoes, tour wineries, kayak, walk the Milford Track, and watch wildlife — all in peace.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Matador cares about your safety when abroad. Here are some articles we’ve published in the past that might come in handy the next time you hit the road:

7 Must-Know Personal Safety Tips For Solo Women Travelers

Nikolas Kristof Explains How to Evade Bandits

10 Common Travel Scams (and How To Avoid Them)

Photo above: tanvach / Feature photo: René Ehrhardt

Tired of endless hassling from tour companies in northern Thailand’s overtouristed regions like Chiang Mai, the ones promising unique trekking experiences that are anything but? Leave them behind and check out the small province of Nan instead.

Base of Operations: Nan Town

The provincial capital of the same name is a small hub of urbanization tucked into a corner of Thailand’s northwestern bulge. Its main feature is that it doesn’t feature much of anything, just friendly people, straightforward service, and beautiful countryside at its doorstep.

Destinations

Community Connection to Thailand

Nan’s population of 24,000 sees just enough travelers to maintain a few well-run guesthouses and a solid travel agency. There are no guided tours here, no overpriced Western food, no feeling of walking on paths well worn.

One of Nan’s biggest pluses is its accommodations.

The Amazing Guesthouse, situated down a back alley a few blocks from the bus station, is a tiny, quaint place, but its management will embrace you as family.

The wooden floors and walls in the rooms give it a warm and inviting feel while the rates encourage a long stay.

Two older Thai women do all the cooking, cleaning, and advice-giving. Your new-found Thai grandmothers will hook you up with a bike (motored or otherwise), fix a mean omelet for breakfast, and always ask you how your day went.

Now that you’re settled in nice and cozy, take the map they provided and plan your day trips into unexplored territory.

Provincial Exploration

With a motorbike as your trusty steed, there are no limits to what you can see and do in Nan Province.

Photo: apes_abroad

Journey along any of the roads radiating out of town and civilization quickly falls away. The region features the rough and rugged terrain northern Thailand is known for, but it also has flat agrarian stretches ideal for sunset cruising.

Several national parks are within a few hours’ drive of town and offer great venues for exploration. Directly north of Nan lies Tham Pha Tup Forest Park, filled with trails that scramble over and around the lush, rocky landscape.

On a sunny day, the area is a dazzling array of vivid greens and grays. Numerous caves dot the park, giving cool relief after a strenuous climb.

Waterfalls are also scattered throughout the region. The Sila Phet Waterfall, near the northern village of Pua, may not rival Niagara in terms of scale, but it makes up for it with charm.

The stream that feeds the waterfall follows a rocky route, where it often collects in small, clear pools. These watering holes are a favorite for local families, who flock to the area on warm afternoons for picnics and swimming.

Northern Thai Village Life

In between swaths of mountainous terrain, the land runs flat and level, flush with rice fields and villages caught halfway between modernization and tradition.

The houses in these tiny townships are constructed from both wood or bamboo and more modern materials. They line the roads that pass through them, alongside broad-leafed palm trees.

Photo: Hanumann

Relaxing adults populate the open storefronts and porches while packs of children walk along the road’s shoulders and teenagers on motorbikes of their own speed by you.

Just watch for the lazy dogs soaking up the sun on the pavement.

Any of the numerous villages you’ll cruise through are perfect for a stop at a local market. Find familiar items like ice cream and fried chicken along with strange vegetables and ripe, smelly fish spread out on long tables.

Those few words of Thai you may have learned are a good way to earn warm smiles from the various merchants.

South of Nan, the road twists and turns up a mountain pass for a ride that alternates between exhilarating and terrifying. On the other side, it smoothes out and coasts until hitting the fishing village of Pak Nai.

Here, you can try out local flavors or take in the surrounding green mountains on a leisurely raft ride.

Such day trips can be planned and executed for the cost of a few liters of gas — no expensive tour necessary. Ride slow or fast; walk through markets or hike up hills; buy handcrafted souvenirs or eat local specialties. Nan offers travelers the freedom to truly get lost and explore.

Community Connection

If you like what you’ve read here, you may want to continue with our Backpacker’s Secret Guides to Muang Ngoi Neua, Laos; Cabo Polonio, Uruguay; the islands of Trang, Thailand; and Champasak, Laos.

You also might enjoy our tips for How to Get off the Tourist Trail in Southeast Asia.

Photo above and feature photo: Gret@Lorenz

Tasty Cuisine

Rabat and Fez are the best places for serious culinary explorations. While Rabat is the most modern and comfortable Moroccan city, Fez is traditional and fascinating. Both offer perfect moods for culinary adventures and both have attracted some of the best chefs in the country.

Some might argue that Marrakech is also a great culinary destination — and I wouldn’t disagree — but what’s happening in Rabat and Fez goes beyond catering to tourists and is directed at locals as well.

Here are some unique Moroccan culinary experiences worth seeking out:

White truffles

Photo: Gret@Lorenz

You can find these for sale along the road from Rabat to Meknes.

Artfully stacked on overturned buckets, they’re sold near oak trees growing in a special soil that stimulates the symbiotic relationship between the truffle and the oak roots.

Argan oil

A specialty of Morocco. It’s a toasty, nutty oil, traditionally derived from a complex process: the undigested pits of the Argan fruit, after being eaten by tree-climbing goats, are picked from the animals’ dung, then cleaned and toasted.

Next, the pits are ground or pressed and the oil is bottled for culinary uses or further processed for cosmetic creams and ointments.

But worry not, today the oil is produced in a more sanitary way. Its taste is a cross between peanut oil and freshly mashed green olives — an absolutely delicious way to dress a salad.

Saffron

Taliouine — south of Marrakech — offers a unique twist to the more commonly available Spanish and Iranian saffrons. The saffron of Taliouine has its own flavor due to southern Morocco’s soil makeup.

Wine

The Meknes Valley yields the finest Moroccan wine, which has come a long way. While wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times, in the past twenty years the industry has begun to make certain vintages that wine lovers the world over would gladly add to their cellars.

Photo: dominikgolenia

A particular favorite of mine is Château Roslane Premier Cru from A.O.C. Les Coteaux de l’Atlas.

Escargot

Steamed and ladled cups of brothy escargot are a fun snack that you will most likely see on the street at night.

People gather around the snail seller’s cart and sip and nibble on these hot little striped-shell delicacies.

Sacred Experiences

The biggest challenge to travel in Morocco is that non-Muslim visitors are not allowed into mosques and shrines, with the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca being the exception.

Yet, the natural beauty of Morocco more than makes up for this and possesses what my Moroccan friend Saadia would call “the Big Waloo” — the Big Nothing — as in total, pure divine presence.

From ocean vista to mountain pass to the Big Waloo of the rosy-orange desert dunes of the south, the natural world’s sacred is open to all. You can take your pick following your own preferences.

For ocean-lovers, explore the Atlantic coast from Asilah to Essaouira.

Photo: Rosino

If you’re into mountains, anywhere in the interior — from north to south — gives way to great views whose only sign of human habitation comes from the shepherds and their brown-faced sheep, black goats, and sturdy donkeys.

Those who hear the desert’s call should head south to Merzouga and ride on a camel trek into the dunes.

For a rare chance at experiencing Moroccan sacred traditions as a local, come to Fez in June and July for The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when sacred spaces otherwise closed to visitors open their doors throughout the city.

Another similar music festival unfolds annually in Essaouira in June: The Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

Romantic Locales

Asilah and Essaouira command a romantic air, with their oceanside settings and well-established art scenes. These are also two cities with an open, international mood that makes them relaxing.

Asilah is smaller and a bit more intimate, while Essaouira has more expansive possibilities. Both have the dramatic backdrop of fortified old towns against the great watery blue of the Atlantic.

Rabat is Morocco’s most mellow and cosmopolitan city, one that invites visitor interaction with the locals. Numerous cafes offer comfortable places for men and women to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee.

Photo: Vibragiel

Seaside Rabat’s medieval neighborhood, the walled medina, is a welcoming place to walk, shop, and talk to artisans carving or painting wood or working silver and gold.

Finally, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital of this part of Africa (and known in Arabic as Walili), is worth a mention.

Its romantic appeal lies in the beautiful Meknes Valley that surrounds it, and in the ancient stones and mosaics of the old city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Other guides in the Eat, Pray, Love series can be found on Portugal and Spain.

Three more articles that will satiate your food, spirit, and love needs are The World’s Best Cities for Late Night Food, How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World, and The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France.

Photo: Lola Akinmade

Let’s face it: Peru hasn’t done much to make Machu Picchu a budget travel destination.

You’ll drop at least a few hundred on a trek along the Inca Trail. Longer routes can run up to four digits a person, if you book with an agency that actually pays their guides and porters well and cares something for the environment.

Or you have the train. For a seat in the lowest class (Backpacker), British-owned PeruRail charges $50 for the three-hour one-way journey from Poroy (Cuzco). If this is sold out—as it often is in the high season—you’ll need to upgrade to Vistadome class for $70.

And that’s just the transportation. Once you get to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town), you’ll be faced with inflated hostel rates and food prices. And finally, the unavoidable 124 soles (~$40) for entry to the site itself.

Photo: foxtwo

All told, you’re looking at around $200/person as a minimum.

Fortunately, within the last couple years a new option has popped up, one that hasn’t yet made it into most guidebooks: Machu Picchu by car.

By avoiding the overpriced train, this route cuts transportation costs by two thirds.

All-inclusive tours are actually a pretty good deal, while diehard budget travelers can go independently to save even more.

The Tour

This relatively new tour is offered by most agencies clustered around the Plaza de Armas and other tourist areas in Cuzco. Just look for the telltale sign: “Machu Picchu by car.” One online agent even seems to specialize in it.

A good pricing rule to remember: the farther from the plaza you wander, the cheaper the prices you’ll find.

I got mine from an agent on Cuesta San Blas (just below the boutique hotel Casa San Blas) for $115.

All-inclusive is the standard:

* hotel pick-up
* bus or van transport to the hydroelectric station outside Santa Teresa
* tickets for the 45-minute train ride from there to Aguas Calientes
* a night’s accommodation in town
* two full meals plus snacks
* entrance to Machu Picchu
* a two-hour guided tour of the site

Lunch on the last day isn’t provided. Neither are tickets for the shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes to the ruins ($7 one way; many people walk).

Even better, for an additional $10 per person you can add an extra night to the tour. This is highly recommended. The standard 2-day/1-night schedule only allows you five hours at the ruins (6am–11am). Stay another night and you’ll get the entire day at the site.

Not only does this give you the opportunity to spend more time climbing Wayna Picchu, visiting the Inca Bridge, and exploring other remote corners of the ruins, but it also enables you to outlast the thick fog that sometimes blows up in the morning.

Destinations

Community Connection to Peru

Tour rates higher than those listed above indicate one of two things:
1. You’ll be staying in more luxurious accommodations in Aguas Calientes and your guide will likely speak more intelligible English, or
2. You’re getting ripped off.

Remember, it pays to haggle and shop around.

One final note: as with most budget travel, you’re sacrificing comfort for cost. The bus ride takes 6 hours, the last 2–3 on dirt roads with some rough spots and a couple cliffside sections that’ll make you regret nabbing the window seat.

If prone to motion sickness, pick up a few Gravol tablets at any pharmacy before heading out.

Go Independent

“More savings!” you say.

Most agencies will happily book you the van ride only, for around 85 soles (~$30) round trip, leaving you to figure out the rest on your own.

If you go this route, here’s how to make sure you stick to the savings:

* Don’t take the $8 train from the hydroelectric station to Aguas Calientes. You can easily walk the tracks in an hour and a half (many people do this).

* If possible, bring all your own food. There are no cheap “local haunts” in Aguas Calientes, and most restaurants will tack a “local tax” ranging anywhere from 10 to 20+ percent onto your bill.

* Camp! Instead of blowing $20 or more on a forgettable hostel bed, pitch a tent ($5 per tent, per night) at the little riverside campground just south of the Puente Ruinas bridges. It’s a 15-minute walk from town, but there’s a little store with necessities on-site.

Plus, you have a great view of Machu Picchu up the mountain (no one back in town does), and you’re in a better position to begin the hour-long climb up the Inca stairs in the early morning to snag a front spot in the entrance line.

The polished Manuel Chávez Ballón Site Museum is also nearby (though unfortunately they’ve started charging admission; 21 soles/11 for students).

Remember that you’ll need to buy your entrance ticket to Machu Picchu at the INC office in Aguas Calientes, as they’re not sold at the site itself.

Follow these tips and you could be looking at a grand total of $80 for your Machu Picchu experience.

Community Connection

Some people are against visiting Machu Picchu, no matter how cheap they can do it. Read why in 9 Places to Experience Now Before They Literally Vanish.

The latest edition of Lonely Planet: Peru was published too long ago to have info on the Machu Picchu by car tour. On that note, check out Trips’ 9 Ways to Outdo the Guidebooks in Peru.

Plenty of Matador community blogs cover Machu Picchu, Cuzco, and the surrounding region. Find out what local Peruvian farmers think of PeruRail’s train service in Struck by Strike in Peru. Matador member jgbrandt shares A Short Video on Lima, Cuzco, and the Sacred Valley, and you can also read 5 Things You Should Know about the Typical Sacred Valley Tour out of Cuzco.

Photo above: left-hand, Feature photo: mandj98

The neon sign, one of Vegas’ most recognizable landmarks, was installed in 1959, back in the casino town’s glory days.

Now, it’s been added to the ranks of the National Register of Historic Places — a fitting designation for a structure that very well could be the city’s oldest. Casinos come and casinos go, but the ultra-retro welcome emblem has managed to survive unaltered. Read more on the story here.

Throughout its five decades, the sign has also been featured in countless photos snapped by Strip-goers.

Do you have a good shot of the famous landmark? Share it with the world by posting a link in the comments.

Community Connection

Visitors with a desire to mix some environmentalism with their gambling should check out Matador’s Green Guide to Las Vegas. Or, to truly get in touch with Sin City, hit up The Top Dive Bars in Las Vegas.

For a local’s perspective on this desert oasis, give Walker Rose’s My Hometown in 500 Words: Las Vegas, NV a read.

1. Preikestolen, Norway
Photographer: claudiomoderini

2. Gozo Cliffs, Malta
Photographer: ino paap

3. Mystery spot: Let us know in the comments below where this photograph was taken. To the first person that gets it right we’ll send a new Laken water bottle.
Photographer: ?–contact us

4. The Eiger, Switzerland
Photographer: Ai@ce

5. Gordon’s Bay, near Cape Town, South Africa
Photographer: danflo

6. Half Dome, Yosemite National Park, USA
Photographer: jurvetson

7. Perrine Bridge in Twin Falls, Idaho, USA
Photographer: Mister M•

8. White Mountains, New Hampshire, USA
Photographer: BurningQuestion

9. The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland
Photographer: w00kie

10. Kjerag, Lysefjorden, Norway
Photographer: hakonthingstad

11. Mont Margeriaz, Rhone-Alpes, France
Photographer: *pascal*

12. Zion National Park, USA
Photographer: pawpaw67

13. Pikes Peak, Colorado, USA
Photographer: ishrona

Community Connection

Heart racing? Palms sweaty? Keep the rush going with 6 American Mountains to Climb for Big Adventure, 8 Massive Mountains That Mortals Can Summit, and 11 Most Dangerous Mountains in the World for Climbers.

Also, what did we miss? Please leave any other EDGE’s you know in the comments!

Photo: hygge_lige

Jaunted has labeled this name change a Wise Move and I think I agree. Although, I did want to do a little more digging to see if there is anything more behind the rename, or if it’s purely marketing and they’re simply exploiting the popular president’s name.

The answer is probably somewhere in the middle. While there is no doubt they’re taking advantage, their claim that Antigua’s highest mountain (at 395 meters/1319 feet) will become the “beacon of hope for all people” is plausible. Everyone needs hope, and if changing the name of this landmark will bring that, then I’m all for it.

And it’s not as if they’re just relying on the name change to bring in the tourists. The island nation is also building a network of hiking trails in the new National Park, a museum, and educational facilities.

The change in name will occur on August 4 to coincide with President Obama’s birthday.

Visiting Antigua and Barbuda

To see it yourself, check out the Antigua and Barbuda official website for information on arriving and getting around. The island paradise boasts some of the best diving and beaches and also lays claim to the sunniest weather in the Eastern Caribbean.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you need more reason to visit Antigua, Eva Holland points out it’s one of the recession-proof currencies pegged to the US dollar.

Photo: clspeace

The Montana that most folks seek is all about wilderness, western mythology, and epic trout fishing. Even with the arrival of high-end eateries and increasingly expensive accommodations in iconic western American towns like Whitefish and Hamilton, you can still come away after a week or two in Montana with solitary experiences and money left in your billfold. Here’s how.

Photo: .Bala

Transportation

The best way to see Montana is by car.

Yes, there’s Amtrak and airports, but in the planes, trains, and automobiles trifecta, bet on the latter. Gas is a bit cheaper this year and as a rule Montana boasts some of the lowest petrol prices in the US.

The flexibility of your own ride allows for either intense investigation of one portion of the state, or a decent linear sample of Montana’s high mountains and vast prairies.

Lodging

For lodging, I subscribe to a “2/3 camping + 1/3 motel room” formula on a summer road trip, ideal in a place with plentiful outdoor sleeping options.

Besides Glacier National Park, there are nine national forests and several state parks to explore.

One unique lodging alternative involves rental of a historic fire lookout, ranger residence, or bunkhouse. Over 90 are available in the national forests. Cost is around $30.00 per night for four people, with varying levels of modern conveniences and accessibility.

They make excellent base camps for hiking, fishing, berry picking, or simply lying amongst the wildflowers in a nearby meadow (as a botany nerd, that’s where you’ll find me).

Montana is covered with campgrounds: private, public, developed, undeveloped. The latter works well if you are self contained and have no need for running water or flush toilets. They’re also best in terms of budgeting: free of charge.

Fancier campsites will cost no more than $15.00 per night. You can reserve ahead of time, good advice when approaching summer tourist hot spots. I tend to take my chances and have no qualms following an obscure Forest Service road a few miles to some unknown place. The further off the beaten path, the less competition for camping space and more opportunity for Montana-style peace and quiet.

Travelers needing a proper mattress, lights, and hot water, will find them in every town offering the typical low/moderate/high range of lodging options. I go low end to kick the dirt off, catch an installment of SportsCenter and regroup. A complimentary breakfast is always a plus.

Summer is high season and hotels/motels close to Glacier and Yellowstone will be spendy and without vacancies. This is when wandering far afield may prove scenically and financially beneficial.

Photo: Eric_Ulmer

In 2008, a friend and I stayed in an obscure fly-to resort for small plane enthusiasts when all the Highway 93 hotels were booked in Hamilton due to a June pow wow.

For $37.50 each we shared a cabin with a gorgeous view of the Bitterroots, the only guests of the chatty Cessna pilot/innkeeper and his wife.

Come day break, we found out we were just up canyon from Triple Creek Ranch, a five-star spot for the Travel and Leisure set starting at $325.00 a night per person. I don’t know what that extra $225.00 would have gotten us exactly, but I don’t think our dogs would have been welcome.

Food

In keeping with a camping/DIY strategy, preparing meals most of the time goes easier on the food budget. There’s not a town in Montana right now without a Saturday farmer’s market. The absence of a sales tax is another money saver. Montana offers morels in the spring, huckleberries in the summer, and trout all year long. You can acquire other foodstuffs on your own or purchase them along the way.

Dine out sparingly, saving up for something spectacular for supper one night and brunch come Sunday. For comprehensive, statewide dining recommendations, check out Munching Montana: A Road Trip Guide to Montana’s Most Unique Local Food.

Getting Priorities Straight

My cash goes to adventures:

Photo: bugeaters

A whitewater plunge in kayak or raft, a knowledgeable fishing guide, or a night’s stay at a hot springs resort with therapeutic waters pumped into my private claw-foot tub. I keep the day-to-day simple, inexpensive, sweet tasting, and scenic.

Not being much of a shopper, my souvenir and gift purchases center on things I can eat, read, or listen to. I’m certain the dozen-plus Matador Montana experts concur and can expand on these suggestions.

These general hints and an Internet click over to Travel Montana should have you cruising the fun and frugal road to my favorite geographical neighbor. See you in the huckleberry patch in a few weeks!

Community Connection

If exploring Big Sky Country sounds good to you, make sure to read up on Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides and 9 Montana Backpacking Trips That Will Blow Your Mind.

Photo above: star5112 / Feature photo: HamdanZakaria

Hot air ballooning is one of the purest forms of air travel. The activity is a literal interpretation of the traveler’s creed “go where the wind takes you.” While the pilots can control the altitude of the balloon, the air currents decide where you’ll end up and how fast you’ll get there.

Perhaps one of its draws is its simplicity. You inject some hot air into the nylon material and away you go. No need to mess with complicated jet engines and spinning rotor blades. It’s certainly the oldest form of air travel; the first manned balloon flight took place in 1783 in France.

Below are 10 balloon festivals around the world launching in the next few months. Whether you’re a passenger, a spectator, or if you want to get your hands dirty helping get one off the ground, these events all have something for you.

1. 15th Velikie Luki International Balloon Meet

When: June 6-13
Where: Velikie Luki, Russia

Don’t miss your chance to witness the crowning of the 2009 Russian champion at the Velikie Luki International Balloon Meet. Event organizers and officials are putting together social events for guests to acquaint themselves with Velikie Luki and the Pskov region.

The city is situated about 450 km west of Moscow, 600 from St. Petersburg, and 100 from the country’s western border. It can be reached easily by car or train from Moscow, St. Pete, Riga, Pskov, and Minsk.

Photo: _e.t

2. Sonoma County Hot Air Balloon Classic

When: June 13-14
Where: Windsor, California

If you’ve always wanted to try ballooning but are scared to go all out, or hesitant to cough up the dough, the Sonoma County Hot Air Balloon Classic is offering up tethered balloon rides to the public.

To view the main launch of colourful and unique balloons you’ll need to get up at the crack of dawn, but what a sight to behold.

3. 2009 Panguitch Valley Balloon Rally

When: June 26-28
Where: Panguitch City, Utah

The Panguitch Valley Balloon Rally is touted as southern Utah’s premier hot air balloon event. The National History District of Panguich not only plays host, but also claims to offer the highest concentration of scenic natural wonders in America. Visitors to the balloon rally are invited to the launch field every morning to help the pilots lift off.

It’s a true family event that includes a Poker Walk, parade, karaoke contest, dunking booth, and children’s crafts and activites.

Photo: Randy Wick

4. Great Texas Balloon Race

When: July 10-12
Where: Longview, Texas (East Texas Regional Airport)

This world-class event is considered by many competing pilots to be the best-run event on the circuit.

Watch close up how the balloons are inflated and how they work.

Lots of entertainment is on hand as local and regional bands play during the day, making way in the evening for the headliners. Arts and crafts will also be on display and Kids Land offers a safe place for the kiddies to play.

5. Montgolfiades de Dole

When: July 11-13
Where: Dole, France

Along with the night glow of the balloons, you can feast your eyes and ears on a spectacular choreographed fireworks display for the finale of this festival. The event is also tied to a benefit for children with serious illnesses.

To view the Montgolfiades de Dole website in English, use the Google website translator.

6. Magic City Hot Air Balloon Rally

When: July 23-26
Where: Billings, Montana

Photo: Elite PhotoArt

This free event is put on by the nonprofit organization Magic City Hot Air Balloon Rally to keep interest in this unique activity alive in the area. For $175 per person you can purchase a morning balloon ride; but be quick, these are limited.

7. Saxony International Balloon Fiesta

When: July 30-Aug 2
Where: Leipzig, Germany

And you thought all Germany had to offer was beer. Now, that’s not to say there won’t be beer there, but the Saxony International Balloon Fiesta is about so much more. Watch as up to 70 balloons take to the sky and light up the night.

A parade, concerts, circus, and VIP lounge are also on offer at this event.

8. Balloon Classic Invitational

When: July 31-Aug 2
Where: North Canton, Ohio

The Balloon Classic Invitational, which began in 1985, merged with the Jackson-Belden Food Fest & Fireworks in 1995 to create a balloon/food/fireworks extravaganza.

With over 70 balloons now participating in great events like team racing, target drops, and pole grabs — where the pilot tries to navigate close to a pole to grab a flag — there’s no shortage of entertainment.

As if that weren’t enough, specially shaped balloons like “Piggles” (a piggy bank), “Touchdown” (a flying American football), and “The American Rocketship” are sure to inspire the imagination.

9. Bristol International Balloon Fiesta

When: Aug 6-9
Where: Bristol, UK

The daddy of the balloon festivals in this list, the Bristol International Balloon Fiesta is Europe’s largest, attracting over 100 balloons and half a million spectators. The Special Shapes Rodeo promises popular returning balloons like Scottish Piper, Churchill Dog, and Swindon House in addition to new surprises.

The RAF Red Arrows — Britain’s famous aerobatic display team — will also be there dazzling visitors with loops, rolls, bends, and twists, and the EXIT parachute team will be jumping out of a plane and performing maneuvers and formations that are sure to be heart-stopping.

Photo: AtomicPope

10. Colorado Balloon Classic

When: Sept 5-7
Where: Colorado Springs, Colorado

At 33 years old, the Colorado Balloon Classic is the longest continuous hot air balloon festival in the Rocky Mountain region. In 2008 it was even voted into the Top 100 Events in North America by the American Bus Association.

This organization has also been selected to coordinate BalloonaPalooza IV, held in the city of North Las Vegas from Sept 18-20. No more info on the event just yet, but stay tuned here.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If the idea of taking in great views from above tickles your fancy, be sure to check out 10 Places to Catch Insane City Views and The World’s 10 Best Rooftop Bars.

For more family fun, Trips’ recent photo essay has some gorgeous shots of family vacation destinations.

Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

It’s the standard modus operandi for many a surf trip, where the surfer’s mindset leaves little room for other considerations.

It isn’t that surfers are shallow, or narrow-minded, or don’t take an interest in their surroundings — it’s just that, well, they like to surf. Yes, the medieval fortifications might be an “absolute must see,” but the four-foot offshore waves squash those plans without further consideration.

Surfers are lucky. Most top-quality surf spots are in warm or tropical climes, generally not over-touristed, and are, by their nature, chilled out places to spend a few weeks. But that doesn’t stop a nagging feeling that maybe we’re missing out on some of the…what’s that word…oh: culture.

Thankfully though, the surf gods decided that surfing and culture needn’t always be mutually exclusive. In a few hallowed parts of the globe, the two indeed live side by side in peaceful harmony.

Northern Spain is one of these places. Surfers can return home with tales of perfect left-hand point breaks and the best patatas bravas this side of Seville.

Northern Spain’s three major cities — and the coast between them — provide enough cultural and culinary fare to push those thoughts of 30° water and mechanical reef breaks to the back of your mind. For a few moments, at least.

San Sebastian

Photo: Enrique de Clasca

Assuming you’re traveling from east to west, San Sebastian will be first on the list. It’s perhaps one of the most surreal places in the world to surf. You might find yourself changing into your wetsuit in the underground NCP car park in the middle of the city before strolling — barefoot, board under arm — through town amongst Spanish businesspeople.

Be prepared for some pinch-yourself moments as you join the masses waiting for the lights to change.

Photo: Rory Finneren

The city’s central break, Ondarreta, is at the end of the high street. Having made the transition from smog to seafront, you’ll see that the bay is overseen by a huge statue of Jesus, his arm raised in approval as you pull off another perfect Spanish right-hander.

The beach can get crowded and you’ll find yourself competing for waves, but it’s worth it, if only to say you’ve surfed there.

Back on land, San Sebastian stakes its claim as the capital of Basque cuisine and of the ubiquitous pintxos (Basque tapas). These tasty bite-size snacks are all the more delicious after a day spent in the water.

Pretty much all bars have pintxos on offer, although you’ll have to make a swift assessment as to whether it’s a “help yourself” or “wait to be offered” affair to avoid getting your wrists slapped.

Pitstop in Mundaka

Moving west towards Bilbao, make sure to stop at Mundaka, a surf town that’s been at the center of European surf culture for the last 40 years. The world-renowned break is perched at the mouth of Guernica estuary and is legendary for its fickleness.

In 2005, following overzealous dredging by a local shipyard, the break disappeared for almost two years. But it’s back now, even if it only really turns on a few times a year.

Some of the most talented surfers in the world make Mundaka their home through the Spanish autumn and winter, in the hope of surfing the wave when it’s on. It’s reckoned by many to be the best left-hander anywhere.

Surfing aside, Mundaka epitomises sleepy Spain. Grabbing a coffee or taking a walk along the estuary almost merits the detour itself.

Bilbao

If your nerves can handle it, it’s worth sticking to the coastal road as it teeters on the edge of sheer cliffs, which drop straight into the sea. It’s one of those drives that can be considered an “event” in itself.

The suburban approach to Bilbao — along the banks of Río Nervión — foreshadows the town itself. Pretty and newly renovated houses give way to the rubble of a recent industrial past; rusting warehouses and a corrupted river reflect the Bilbao of old.

Photo: Big Blue Ocean

As you approach the city, however, these warehouses fade into tree-lined walkways and cycle paths. Many have been converted into the apartments and offices that begin to line the river and are testament to the cosmopolitan reincarnation of the city.

It’s only once the road melds with the river — as it meanders right and into the city’s hub — that you spot, on the far bank, the totem that has come to epitomize the new Bilbao: the Guggenheim Museum.

From a cultural standpoint, it’s a must if you’re in the area. Inside and out, the structure will blow you away.

Bilbao is an animated and engaging city. Although there’s no surf on its doorstep, there’s a ton of fun to be had, especially if you time your visit to coincide with one of the many fiestas.

Santander

The final metropolitan stop before beginning the run into the westernmost regions of Asturias and Galicia is Santander. In some respects it’s the ugly sister of the trio. Santander does little to disguise its industrial heart.

Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

Much of the city was destroyed by fire in 1941, and the sprawl that’s developed since has a practical, modernist feel to it.

Elements of the old city do remain and are worth a wander, but it’s another department in which Santander succeeds in trumping both Bilbao and San Sebastian: its beaches.

From the bustle of downtown, it’s a 10-minute walk to the kite- and windsurfing magnet of Playa de la Magdalena, or a 20-minute ferry ride to the vibrant Hossegor-style resort of Somo. There you’ll find great surfing and a fantastic beach vibe. And despite the very best of cultural intentions, it’s a fitting end to the trip.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re extending your trip south across the Strait of Gibraltar, Trips also has valuable info on Surfing Morocco.

Beebe Bahrami’s Eat, Pray, Love in Spain is well worth a read if you want to explore more of the cultural and spiritual side of the country.