Photo: Panoramas

Eat Slowly

Lyon, the country’s oft-named culinary capital, is a good starting point if restaurant meals are what you’re after. But make sure not to confine yourself — after you’ve discovered what the city has to offer, pick a neighboring region and dive in. It’s likely to offer cuisine just as rewarding.

And, even if you invest in the informative Michelin Red Guide, complement its pages by asking the locals what and where they like to eat and drink. They’ll passionately tell you, and their answers can point you to places Michelin missed.

Photo: Rubber Slippers In Italy

Food in France is really all about its markets, its growers, and its local ingredients, celebrated in regional annual festivals throughout the country. Food and wine are the ultimate art forms of this nation.

For me the greatest experience with French food comes from exploring the unique ingredients and products of a region.

I recommend making regular market visits a central part of your traveler’s routine — you’ll find there’s a weekly one wherever you are.

There you’ll see all the ingredients of an authentically local dish artistically displayed by the people who grow them.

Sacred France

The French landscape has been marked with sacred sites since prehistoric times. Here are some highlights of the diverse ancestry of spiritual France:

Lascaux is a much more powerful site than your art history text lets on. Even its precisely replicated Lascaux II — the only part of the complex you’re now allowed to enter — will make an impression.

After your visit to the cave, you can enjoy a picnic lunch in the hilltop forest that covers it.

Photo: Eusebius@Commons

Chartres must be the medieval Lascaux. Parallels are easy given the intimacy, artistry, light, and warm cavernous spaces of both places. But there’s no comparison for Chartres’ illuminated stained glass windows.

The 13th-century cathedral also has a labyrinth built into the nave floor, a contemplative pilgrimage path offered to those who couldn’t make the more distant journeys to Santiago de Compostela, Rome, or Jerusalem in the Middle Ages.

Ste-Chapelle, a Gothic church from the 13th century on the Île de la Cité in Paris, is the perfect space for quiet prayer and meditation.

Mont St-Michel is a Benedictine fortress site from the 11th century. Some claim it sits on a ley line and power spot that is far more ancient, one that belongs to the Archangel Michael (St-Michel) as he works his energy across the globe.

The Romanesque pilgrim’s and seaman’s 11th-century Église Ste-Radegonde — near the fishing hamlet of Talmont-sur-Gironde on the Garonne estuary north of Bordeaux — is a lesser-known church that’s worth the effort of a visit for its cliffside setting.

In Brittany, the ancient standing stones of Carnac are among the world’s most important Neolithic sites, dating to around 6,500 to 4,000 years ago.

Nearby, Le Forêt de Paimport, mythically referred to as Brocéliande Forest, is a contender for the legendary land of King Arthur and the home of the mythical Morgan Le Fay.

Le Chemin de Saint-Jacques is a network of pilgrimage roads starting in or passing through France and destined for Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The most popular begins in Le Puy-en-Velay and leads to the French-Spanish border at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Three other major routes start in Paris, Vézelay, and Arles.

Photo: McPig

Romance in France

Paris, of course, is high on the list of French romantic destinations — and for good reason. But beyond the capital, where to? Here are some ideas:

A walk along the sea trail in Normandy from St-Malo to Cancale — for oysters, bien sûr, a well-known aphrodisiac.

Arles may very well be the most romantic town in France, when the mosquitoes aren’t active (summer and early autumn). Arles in October? Mon dieu. Yes.

Bicycling in Provence.

Canoeing along the Dordogne River.

A wine tour of Burgundy.

And finally, touching again on local markets; there’s nothing more romantic than spending a lazy morning buying ingredients — baguettes, cheeses, wine — for an outdoor lunch at a nearby park, riverbank, or countryside overlook.

Community Connection

This is the fifth and final installment in Beebe’s series of Eat, Pray, Love guides. The other four cover Spain, Morocco, Portugal, and the USA.

Photo: revjim5000

For those of us in the Northern Hemisphere, summer is fading fast.

There may not be much time left to drag out the grill, but you still have all year to enjoy the mouth-watering summertime favorites listed in the Top-Rated Burgers in America.

Epicurious went straight to the foodies for this rundown, assembling opinions from several of the nation’s most respected taste buds. The results showcase a varied collection of hamburgers from all across the United States — their fixings ranging from the supremely decadent to the good ol’ tried and true.

DuMont Burger, New York / Photo: jasonlam

While choosing a favorite burger is a hotly debated, extremely personal decision, let’s not forget the democratizing effect of a truly delectable meal.

Whether you prefer haute cuisine or the corner snack shack, there’s something undeniably alluring about picking up a juicy burger and taking a greedy bite.

So wipe the drool off your chin and feast your eyes on the carnivore-friendly slideshow at Epicurious.com, which includes these 12 destinations for your inner burger addict:

New York: DuMont Burger
Miami: Kingdom
Washington DC: Palena Café
Seattle: Lunchbox Laboratory
San Francisco: Zuni Café
Los Angeles: Pie ‘n Burger
Philadelphia: Rouge
Atlanta: Holeman & Finch
Boston: Radius
Chicago: Rosebud Steakhouse
New Orleans: Port of Call
Santa Fe: Bobcat Bite

Did your favorite not make the list? Weigh in with your own highly subjective, extremely biased selection in the comments below.

And try not to get too much grease on the keyboard.

Community Connection

If the grill gets you goin’, you’re definitely gonna want to check out Matador Nights’ exploration of Barbecue Around the World.

Photo: Johan Larsson

Exploring the windy roads and rolling hills of France’s countryside in Cognac is a great trip in itself, but add some time with the beverage of royalty and you’ve got a unique experience.

Here are some things to do while in the region:

Photo: mayhem2006

Sleep in a chateau

The Cognac region has no shortage of accommodation options. If you’re looking for something in the center of town, check out the Hotel Francois.

For more atmosphere, the area is home to countless chateaus. A step above a B&B, chateaus are reasonably priced at around 100 € per night. Two worth a look are Chateau de L’Yeuse — where you can sip tea on a terrace while overlooking the hills — and Chateau Saint Martial, with private jacuzzis in the rooms.

Stroll through the town

The Charente River gives the towns of Cognac and Jarnac their quaint riverside feel. While you can easily spend all your time in the cafes and shops, there is much more. The Musee des arts du Cognac has a history of the town and its famous brandy, as well as art collections donated by local families.

A walk through Vieux Cognac and the town’s walls at the Chateau and Saint-Jacques Gates will take you back in time.

To rest your feet, hop on the local tram. The Tourist and Information Office provides tickets, maps, and walking tour information.

Photo: JarnaQuais

With the Atlantic Ocean only a two-hour drive away (the beach town of La Rochelle is highly recommended if you have time), seafood is available in abundance. Petits gris à la charentaise (snails) is a local delicacy, as is cognac-flavored Bavarian cream.

Learn about cognac

The BNIC (Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac) is an organization of 5,000 cognac merchants from the region, where 96% of the world’s cognac is produced.

Six areas are distinguished by their soil: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. When it was discovered the grapes in these areas were not suitable for fine wine, brandy was born. And when the distillers began to blend the brandy at different stages, cognac was created.

Although the basic process is simple, it is time consuming. It all begins with one litre of wine. After aging for 20 years, two-thirds is left. After an additional 30 years, half a litre remains. 100 years on you have just 10% of the original, and this is known as eau-de-vie (water of life) — the principal ingredient of cognac.

The three major types — VS – Very Special; VSOP – Very Superior Old Pale; and Napoleon XO – Extra Old — come from the differences in the process and how the liquids are blended.

The major players

Eighty percent of the world’s cognac comes from just four distilleries: Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin, and Courvoisier. The French government sets the guidelines and regulates the use of pesticides and harvesting times.

While Hennessy has its own vineyards, they’re more for testing purposes as the company uses nearly 2,000 growers to make their cognac. Since Irishman Richard Hennessy began his own company in the early 1700s, Hennessy has remained a family business, joining Moet & Chandon Champagne in 1971 to form Moet Hennessy.

Photo: jessicafm

Jean Martell, who came from the island of Jersey, set up his company in 1715, making Martell the oldest of the cognac producers. On the grounds of the distillery is the Founder’s House, open to visitors and full of old documents and photos dating back to Jean Martell’s early days.

Remy Martin has been making cognac since 1724 and today produces 1.8 million cases per year. They also established the house of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne 60 years later. In the Cognac region, they operate Les Rendez-vous Remy Martin, where visitors can create packages that include everything from a picnic on the grounds to personalized tours and stays.

The House of Courvoisier is one of the younger cognac companies, only dating back to the 19th century, when Emmanuel Courvoisier and partner Louis Gallois turned their wine and spirit company in Bercy into a cognac dynasty, all thanks to a man named Napoleon. It was Napoleon III who labeled Courvoisier the “Official Supplier to the Imperial Court.”

Sample the drink

All of the major cognac companies offer distillery tours and tastings. Tours can also be arranged for some of the smaller cognac vineyards.

Destinations

Community Connection to France

Although most people will tell you that cognac should be drunk neat, 70% of it is used in mixed drinks. The BNIC lists a few interesting choices including Cognac Summit (lime juice, ginger, VSOP cognac, lemonade, and cucumber) and Pink Love (VSOP cognac, raspberry liquor, and champagne).

Getting there

There are flights within Europe to Poitiers and La Rochelle (both under two hours away by car) through Ryan Air. From Paris, it’s about a five-hour drive to the Cognac region.

The three-hour highspeed TGV train ride from Paris’ Montparnasse station (easily accessible from downtown or Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports) to Angouleme puts you just 30 minutes from downtown Cognac.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

While in France, don’t waste your money on the Evian. Drinking tap water is on the rise in the country.

If you’re going to be in Paris as well, Paris, France By the Numbers can give you unique insight on the City of Lights.

Photo: chris runoff

Culinary America

A land of immigrants, Americans learned long ago that the best way to stay in touch with the mother culture — long after the language fell away — was through cooking. This nostalgia and passion are as much a part of traditional recipes as their ingredients.

In addition to using food to remember where we came from, we also use it to express where we want to go. American cuisine is one of diverse experimentation. Here are some favorites:

1. The San Francisco Bay Area is America’s culinary king. From Half Moon Bay to San Francisco and Berkeley to Sonoma and Napa and Marin Counties, this region leads in food and wine that’s locally and organically grown and artistically prepared.

Photo: hillary h

2. For the best traditional cuisine mixed with riotous innovation, New Orleans is the place. This southern city flawlessly combines tradition with experimentation, and its people continue to define the joy of cooking, eating, and sharing a table.

3. Chicago, with its incredibly diverse population — from Eastern and Central Europe, to the circum-Mediterranean, to Latin America, to East Asia — is a foodie heaven.

Here’s a city where you can find the best of the most unknown cuisines, such as a Serbian restaurant serving up traditional dishes that would pass muster back home.

4. Philadelphia is as rich in American food and drink as it is in American history, especially considering its rise in recent years as a major restaurant town.

Freshly feeding this trend is the hinterland of farms, forests, and fields in both Pennsylvania and New Jersey, the presence of European-styled daily markets like the Reading Terminal and Italian Markets, and the growth of urban community gardens.

Philadelphia’s City Tavern served our founding fathers, and it can do the same for you. It’s still as exciting, broad, and spicy as it was in the 18th century, when far-flung ingredients were constantly coming through the city’s active international port on the Delaware River.

Sacred America

In addition to human-built spiritual facilities, some of America’s most sacred sites are found in its varied and vast natural spaces. A handy list of such places is available at Places of Peace and Power. Standouts include:

Photo: R. Doyle Bowman

1. Canyon de Chelly in northeastern Arizona is among the longest continuously inhabited places in North America, to this day managed by the Navajo Nation in collaboration with the National Park Service.

Canyon de Chelly is not only a national monument but also home to a Navajo community.

2. In 1872, Lakota shaman Black Elk identified the center of the universe in the Black Hills of the Dakotas — Okawita Paha, otherwise known as Harney Peak. His Great Vision preserved for us the awareness that this place as an immensely important sacred spot in North America.

While much has changed in the region since then, Harney Peak and the Black Hills continue to possess the power to arrest us, to take us out of our ordinary selves, and to enable us to see our interconnectedness to each other and all life.

3. The Vedanta Temple in Montecito, California, occupies a strong, authentic sacred landscape in the mountains east of Santa Barbara. Throughout the years, the temple has maintained its peaceful atmosphere of meditation and spiritual practice, welcoming all.

Photo: SF Brit

4. Grace Cathedral in San Francisco has an open, spiritually oriented attitude, plus the appeal of an indoor-outdoor labyrinth based on that of France’s Chartres Cathedral.

It’s a terrific setting for a walking meditation, and visitors are respectful of each others’ desire for inner work and silence. More information is available on their website.

Romantic America

Again, from can’t-look-away natural scenery to human-made getaways, America offers countless opportunities for hand-in-hand exploration.

1. Strolling Philadelphia’s expansive colonial neighborhood is like walking in old America and old Europe simultaneously. Filled with over three centuries of history — a marvel of antiquity for most American cities — Old City Philadelphia is full of gardens, walking paths, cobbled streets, old cemeteries, and great cafes and taverns.

2. Driving California’s Highway 1 from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz, you’ll pass through one of North America’s most romantic natural landscapes.

This unique coastal expanse possesses wild vistas and nature parks, intimate towns and beach coves, all along a route where adventure is just around the bend.

3. The French Quarter of New Orleans will always hang onto that worn, Old World romance no matter what comes its way.

Photo: specialkrb

From its colorful ambiance, to its great food and ale, to a sense of community connectedness, this is a great place to go with the one you love, or perhaps to find him or her during an authentic blues set in one of many small, local joints.

4. Another excellent romantic mini-roadtrip runs between the Hudson River Valley of New York and the Berkshires of western Massachusetts. The pace of life here is utterly different than that in the cities just hours away.

From the road you’ll get vistas of mountains, forests, and rivers, while there are plenty of opportunities to stop and savor good local food, go for a romantic hike, and enjoy theater and live music in old-fashioned, small-scale venues.

Community Connection

If you like the Eat, Pray, Love concept, you’ll want to check out Beebe’s guides to Morocco, Portugal, and Spain.

Have your own favorite spot for a culinary, spiritual, or romantic getaway in the U.S.? Share it with Trips readers in the comments.

Photo: ashley serra

Graeter’s – Cincinnati, OH

Since 1870, Graeter’s has churned out ice cream the old-fashioned way using a spinning French pot. Its signature chip flavors, like black raspberry chip and peanut butter chip, are specked with its infamous mammoth chocolate chips.

Toscanini’s – Cambridge, MA

Toscanini’s was declared “Best Ice Cream in the World” by the New York Times and has won over a diverse array of fans, including Yo-Yo Ma and the Dalai Lama.

Those who enjoy sampling inventive flavors will appreciate its extensive selection, which features offerings such as pepper bourbon, black bottom, cardamom pistachio, and saffron.

Photo: ashley serra

Bi-Rite Creamery – San Francisco, CA

The San Francisco Bay Area has no shortage of ice cream shops utilizing organic local ingredients.

Bi-Rite Creamery specializes in whipping up batches of unique flavors with dairy from the nearby Strauss Family Creamery.

Even the mix-ins are made in-house to ensure high quality.

McConnell’s Ice Cream – Santa Barbara, CA

Gordon F. McConnell came up with his ice cream recipes and production techniques while recovering from World War II injuries. After 60 years, the family-run parlor continues to make rich, dense ice cream from the finest ingredients, including cream from local dairies.

Sibby’s Organic Zone Ice Cream Parlor – Viroqua, WI

This list wouldn’t be complete without an entry from “America’s Dairyland.” All ice creams and waffle cones from Sibby’s Organic Zone Ice Cream Parlor are hand-crafted in owner Sue Sebion’s red barn using only organic local ingredients (aside from the vanilla).

Sebion refers to the dessert as “the official planet peace food” because of its ability to overwhelm you with positive memories.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory – Brooklyn, NY

When New Yorkers are willing to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge and stand line at a shop that sells only six flavors, you know it’s got to be good.

Fans of the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory think so, as its ice cream is made from the “finest, purest, natural ingredients,” and the view of Manhattan from its waterfront location adds a nice touch.

Photo: scaredy_kat

Capogiro Gelato – Philadelphia, PA

Who needs the cheesesteak? Capogiro Gelato brings Italian-style ice cream to the City of Brotherly Love, following tradition by making small, fresh batches of gelato each morning using ingredients from Pennsylvania farms.

In addition to old favorites like stracciatella and pistachio, Capogiro serves up innovative flavors that change daily, such as lemon opal basil and green mango with chili.

Margie’s Candies – Chicago, IL

Don’t be fooled by the name. This old-fashioned candy store/ice cream parlor with two locations is widely regarded for its homemade ice creams as well as its confectioneries.

Offering more than 50 varieties of sundaes, banana splits, ice cream sodas, and milkshakes, Margie’s has been a Chicago landmark since it opened in the 1920s, over the years attracting the likes of Al Capone and the Beatles.

Community Connection

What’s your favorite ice cream, and where do you go for a scoop? Get in the spirit of National Ice Cream Day by telling us in the comments!

Photo: aka*kirara

Cotswolds, England

Nobody embraces tea more seriously than the English. Famous world over for its stone-built villages, historical towns, and rolling green hills, there’s no better place to experience tea time than the English Cotswolds.

Sip Earl Grey amongst drooping willows and lazy streams at the birthplace of William Shakespeare, in Stratford-upon-Avon, and you may be inspired to write a few sonnets of your own.

Photo: Author

Chengdu, China

Chinese green tea is as famous in the East as Earl Grey is in the West. For the best in Chinese teahouse culture, head to Chengdu.

Traditionally venues for conversation, light eating, and ear cleaning (a service performed by professionals with mini-lances and swabs, followed by an energizing shoulder massage), Chengdu teahouses have evolved into both trendy hotspots for dating and nightlife as well as sanctuaries of quiet relaxation.

At the south bridge of Dujiang Weir, enjoy a relaxing afternoon outside with a bottomless pot of your choice for around 20 yuan ($3).

And yes, you can still have your ears professionally lanced.

Ganzi, Tibetan Plateau

After passing over 13,000ft mountain passes to the Tibetan Plateau, Chinese green gives way to its western cousin, butter tea. A mainstay of the local diet, generous portions of (often rancid) butter and salt give Tibetan tea a uniquely unpleasant flavor that is undoubtedly an acquired taste.

Tibetans take advantage of the butter’s oils to protect their lips from the high-altitude sun. Consequently, the higher you go, the more butter in your tea.

Photo: Author

Although situated in West Sichuan and not the Tibetan Autonomous Region, the town of Ganzi is culturally more Tibetan than most of Tibet.

Wander the old town, overlooked by a hilltop monastery (home to over 500 Buddhist monks), and you’ll find yourself lost among faded prayer flags and elderly patrons slowly spinning prayer wheels.

Since the 2008 Tibetan uprisings, in which Ganzi was an epicenter of violent protest, West Sichuan has been out of bounds to most foreigners. If you make it to this remote mountain town and duck into one of the many local guesthouses for tea, you’ll likely be the only Westerner they’ll see for weeks.

Photo: Author

Marrakech, Morocco

Sipping hot mint tea in the souks of Marrakech, Morocco, entails more than you might expect.

You sit among boiling cauldrons of lamb heads, watching as your tea is poured from large steaming copper kettles at arm’s length into tiny palm-sized glasses.

The addictive sweet mint tea is served throughout the day. Alcohol is regarded as taboo in traditional circles in this Muslim nation, so mint tea acts as the social beverage of choice.

At the local food stalls in the Djemaa el Fna, in the heart of the old city, grab a cup with the locals in the evenings for around $0.10 a glass.

Cuzco, Peru

The coca leaf, notorious for its roll as the principal ingredient in cocaine, has been used for centuries in Andean tea.

Photo: sdpuckett

Among the Inca-descended Quechua in particular, the ancient brew is still consumed to alleviate the effects of life at altitude.

Try the tea in the mountain city of Cuzco, where tourist accommodations offer a complementary cup on arrival.

At nearly 11,000 ft above sea level, your body will thank you for downing a draught of the coca concoction, especially if you’ve just gotten in from Lima and the coast.

Nashville, USA

Served on ice with a squeeze of lemon on a hot Tennessee afternoon…it’s not hard to understand why American Southerners love their sweet tea. What better place than the home of country music to experience it for yourself?

Located 30 minutes from downtown Nashville along a narrow country road sits Barbara’s Home Cookin’, a local “meat an’ three” joint. One sip of Barbara’s homemade sweet tea, accompanied by a lunch of her fried chicken and fresh pie, and you’ll be humming “Rocky Top Tennessee” for a week.

Community Connection

Tea fans might also enjoy reading about 11 Herbs That Ease Common Travel Ailments. Also, make sure to check out Hidden Hope: A Visit to a Sri Lankan Tea Estate.

Photo above and feature photo: Gret@Lorenz

Tasty Cuisine

Rabat and Fez are the best places for serious culinary explorations. While Rabat is the most modern and comfortable Moroccan city, Fez is traditional and fascinating. Both offer perfect moods for culinary adventures and both have attracted some of the best chefs in the country.

Some might argue that Marrakech is also a great culinary destination — and I wouldn’t disagree — but what’s happening in Rabat and Fez goes beyond catering to tourists and is directed at locals as well.

Here are some unique Moroccan culinary experiences worth seeking out:

White truffles

Photo: Gret@Lorenz

You can find these for sale along the road from Rabat to Meknes.

Artfully stacked on overturned buckets, they’re sold near oak trees growing in a special soil that stimulates the symbiotic relationship between the truffle and the oak roots.

Argan oil

A specialty of Morocco. It’s a toasty, nutty oil, traditionally derived from a complex process: the undigested pits of the Argan fruit, after being eaten by tree-climbing goats, are picked from the animals’ dung, then cleaned and toasted.

Next, the pits are ground or pressed and the oil is bottled for culinary uses or further processed for cosmetic creams and ointments.

But worry not, today the oil is produced in a more sanitary way. Its taste is a cross between peanut oil and freshly mashed green olives — an absolutely delicious way to dress a salad.

Saffron

Taliouine — south of Marrakech — offers a unique twist to the more commonly available Spanish and Iranian saffrons. The saffron of Taliouine has its own flavor due to southern Morocco’s soil makeup.

Wine

The Meknes Valley yields the finest Moroccan wine, which has come a long way. While wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times, in the past twenty years the industry has begun to make certain vintages that wine lovers the world over would gladly add to their cellars.

Photo: dominikgolenia

A particular favorite of mine is Château Roslane Premier Cru from A.O.C. Les Coteaux de l’Atlas.

Escargot

Steamed and ladled cups of brothy escargot are a fun snack that you will most likely see on the street at night.

People gather around the snail seller’s cart and sip and nibble on these hot little striped-shell delicacies.

Sacred Experiences

The biggest challenge to travel in Morocco is that non-Muslim visitors are not allowed into mosques and shrines, with the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca being the exception.

Yet, the natural beauty of Morocco more than makes up for this and possesses what my Moroccan friend Saadia would call “the Big Waloo” — the Big Nothing — as in total, pure divine presence.

From ocean vista to mountain pass to the Big Waloo of the rosy-orange desert dunes of the south, the natural world’s sacred is open to all. You can take your pick following your own preferences.

For ocean-lovers, explore the Atlantic coast from Asilah to Essaouira.

Photo: Rosino

If you’re into mountains, anywhere in the interior — from north to south — gives way to great views whose only sign of human habitation comes from the shepherds and their brown-faced sheep, black goats, and sturdy donkeys.

Those who hear the desert’s call should head south to Merzouga and ride on a camel trek into the dunes.

For a rare chance at experiencing Moroccan sacred traditions as a local, come to Fez in June and July for The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when sacred spaces otherwise closed to visitors open their doors throughout the city.

Another similar music festival unfolds annually in Essaouira in June: The Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

Romantic Locales

Asilah and Essaouira command a romantic air, with their oceanside settings and well-established art scenes. These are also two cities with an open, international mood that makes them relaxing.

Asilah is smaller and a bit more intimate, while Essaouira has more expansive possibilities. Both have the dramatic backdrop of fortified old towns against the great watery blue of the Atlantic.

Rabat is Morocco’s most mellow and cosmopolitan city, one that invites visitor interaction with the locals. Numerous cafes offer comfortable places for men and women to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee.

Photo: Vibragiel

Seaside Rabat’s medieval neighborhood, the walled medina, is a welcoming place to walk, shop, and talk to artisans carving or painting wood or working silver and gold.

Finally, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital of this part of Africa (and known in Arabic as Walili), is worth a mention.

Its romantic appeal lies in the beautiful Meknes Valley that surrounds it, and in the ancient stones and mosaics of the old city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Other guides in the Eat, Pray, Love series can be found on Portugal and Spain.

Three more articles that will satiate your food, spirit, and love needs are The World’s Best Cities for Late Night Food, How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World, and The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France.

Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

It’s the standard modus operandi for many a surf trip, where the surfer’s mindset leaves little room for other considerations.

It isn’t that surfers are shallow, or narrow-minded, or don’t take an interest in their surroundings — it’s just that, well, they like to surf. Yes, the medieval fortifications might be an “absolute must see,” but the four-foot offshore waves squash those plans without further consideration.

Surfers are lucky. Most top-quality surf spots are in warm or tropical climes, generally not over-touristed, and are, by their nature, chilled out places to spend a few weeks. But that doesn’t stop a nagging feeling that maybe we’re missing out on some of the…what’s that word…oh: culture.

Thankfully though, the surf gods decided that surfing and culture needn’t always be mutually exclusive. In a few hallowed parts of the globe, the two indeed live side by side in peaceful harmony.

Northern Spain is one of these places. Surfers can return home with tales of perfect left-hand point breaks and the best patatas bravas this side of Seville.

Northern Spain’s three major cities — and the coast between them — provide enough cultural and culinary fare to push those thoughts of 30° water and mechanical reef breaks to the back of your mind. For a few moments, at least.

San Sebastian

Photo: Enrique de Clasca

Assuming you’re traveling from east to west, San Sebastian will be first on the list. It’s perhaps one of the most surreal places in the world to surf. You might find yourself changing into your wetsuit in the underground NCP car park in the middle of the city before strolling — barefoot, board under arm — through town amongst Spanish businesspeople.

Be prepared for some pinch-yourself moments as you join the masses waiting for the lights to change.

Photo: Rory Finneren

The city’s central break, Ondarreta, is at the end of the high street. Having made the transition from smog to seafront, you’ll see that the bay is overseen by a huge statue of Jesus, his arm raised in approval as you pull off another perfect Spanish right-hander.

The beach can get crowded and you’ll find yourself competing for waves, but it’s worth it, if only to say you’ve surfed there.

Back on land, San Sebastian stakes its claim as the capital of Basque cuisine and of the ubiquitous pintxos (Basque tapas). These tasty bite-size snacks are all the more delicious after a day spent in the water.

Pretty much all bars have pintxos on offer, although you’ll have to make a swift assessment as to whether it’s a “help yourself” or “wait to be offered” affair to avoid getting your wrists slapped.

Pitstop in Mundaka

Moving west towards Bilbao, make sure to stop at Mundaka, a surf town that’s been at the center of European surf culture for the last 40 years. The world-renowned break is perched at the mouth of Guernica estuary and is legendary for its fickleness.

In 2005, following overzealous dredging by a local shipyard, the break disappeared for almost two years. But it’s back now, even if it only really turns on a few times a year.

Some of the most talented surfers in the world make Mundaka their home through the Spanish autumn and winter, in the hope of surfing the wave when it’s on. It’s reckoned by many to be the best left-hander anywhere.

Surfing aside, Mundaka epitomises sleepy Spain. Grabbing a coffee or taking a walk along the estuary almost merits the detour itself.

Bilbao

If your nerves can handle it, it’s worth sticking to the coastal road as it teeters on the edge of sheer cliffs, which drop straight into the sea. It’s one of those drives that can be considered an “event” in itself.

The suburban approach to Bilbao — along the banks of Río Nervión — foreshadows the town itself. Pretty and newly renovated houses give way to the rubble of a recent industrial past; rusting warehouses and a corrupted river reflect the Bilbao of old.

Photo: Big Blue Ocean

As you approach the city, however, these warehouses fade into tree-lined walkways and cycle paths. Many have been converted into the apartments and offices that begin to line the river and are testament to the cosmopolitan reincarnation of the city.

It’s only once the road melds with the river — as it meanders right and into the city’s hub — that you spot, on the far bank, the totem that has come to epitomize the new Bilbao: the Guggenheim Museum.

From a cultural standpoint, it’s a must if you’re in the area. Inside and out, the structure will blow you away.

Bilbao is an animated and engaging city. Although there’s no surf on its doorstep, there’s a ton of fun to be had, especially if you time your visit to coincide with one of the many fiestas.

Santander

The final metropolitan stop before beginning the run into the westernmost regions of Asturias and Galicia is Santander. In some respects it’s the ugly sister of the trio. Santander does little to disguise its industrial heart.

Photo: Sergio Alvare Palaez

Much of the city was destroyed by fire in 1941, and the sprawl that’s developed since has a practical, modernist feel to it.

Elements of the old city do remain and are worth a wander, but it’s another department in which Santander succeeds in trumping both Bilbao and San Sebastian: its beaches.

From the bustle of downtown, it’s a 10-minute walk to the kite- and windsurfing magnet of Playa de la Magdalena, or a 20-minute ferry ride to the vibrant Hossegor-style resort of Somo. There you’ll find great surfing and a fantastic beach vibe. And despite the very best of cultural intentions, it’s a fitting end to the trip.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re extending your trip south across the Strait of Gibraltar, Trips also has valuable info on Surfing Morocco.

Beebe Bahrami’s Eat, Pray, Love in Spain is well worth a read if you want to explore more of the cultural and spiritual side of the country.

Photo: ctaloi

Montanans are resourceful. Whether they’re hunting, gathering, or growing, folks in the Big Sky know how to squeeze the most succulent and sometimes strange sustenance from the short and vibrant summers, quick falls and springs, and extended winters.

And yet Montana is so big (147,138 square miles of land, with over 60 million acres in agricultural production) you can live there for a decade and not know what lies over the next range.

Here is a glimpse of choice and local morsels that can be discovered between Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks. Whether you want old-school Montana eats or contemporary cuisine, our guide includes a healthy mix of decadence and the just plain weird.

A Few Tips:

• There are ample farm stands and markets selling wild and farmed foods, including salad greens, Dixon melons, sun-gold tomatoes, huckleberries, peach pie, and fresh lavender. Some of them are listed here.
• Montana is rich with wild food: morel mushrooms, huckleberries, fish, and game. These foods have a cultish appeal. If you are intrigued enough to pursue them yourself, it’s important to know the rules of the game and don’t hesitate to ask how they are harvested when you purchase them at market.
• You may see trout, elk, and bison on restaurant menus. While these could be local, they aren’t wild—these meats are regulated by law and are therefore farmed, which plays into their sustainability factor.
• It isn’t feasible for most venues to offer everything local, so expect seasonal selections. Ask what’s local and how it made it to your plate or shopping bag.

Cameron

Photo ©Whitefish Partners

The Lodge at Sun Ranch is a luxury eco-lodge located in the Madison Valley. They serve local beef, pork, lamb, and poultry prepared in the style of western bistro cuisine, like the grilled Sika venison chop with blackberry glace, grilled asparagus, and celeriac mashers.

Pray

Chico Hot Springs Resort is tucked up against the Absaroka Mountains. The resort has hot springs for soaking and a dining room that features contemporary western dishes, including duck and Montana beef.

The garden and geothermal greenhouse supplies chefs with veggies and herbs. Enjoy an appetizer of baked brie with Montana huckleberry coulis, or barbequed bison short-rib ravioli with a sweet corn sauce and red chili oil.

Emigrant

Fridley Creek Farm has sustainably produced eggs, vegetables, and honey. You won’t ever forget a drive through Emigrant, which is where much of the movie A River Runs Through It was filmed. 406-333-9570

Livingston

Livingston Farmer’s Market. Sacagawea Park. June 15-Sept 4. Wednesdays 4:30 p.m.-7:30 p.m. Fresh and local produce along with local game.

Livingston Bar and Grill. Historic, warm, elegant environs feature delicacies such as juniper elk carpaccio. 406-222-1866

Ferry Creek Ranch. This 560-acre ranch is one of the oldest in the state, established in 1882. Their grass-fed Galloway cattle have been certified organic since 2002.

Big Sky

By Word of Mouth offers both dining and catering. They source their produce, goat cheese, and meats from neighbors in the surrounding valleys, including their in-laws at Gallatin Valley Botanical, making it a true family affair.

Try their roasted Cornish game hen served with fresh basil risotto, organic green beans, and a lemon thyme pan jus.

Virginia and Nevada Cities

The Star Bakery. To get a glimpse of the old and raunchy west, see the Virginia City Players then head to (circa 1865) for fried pickles and strawberry rhubarb pie. Unconfirmed if ingredients are local, but the flavor is.

Virginia City Growers Guild Farmer’s Market. Downtown, June-September.

Butte, MT

The Uptown Café. 47 E. Broadway. 406-723-4735. For more of a contemporary feel in an overwhelmingly historic city, nosh on the sausage onion soup, twice baked potato casserole, or black raspberry pie.

Joe’s Pasty Shop. 1641 Grand Ave. 406-723-9071. You can’t go through Butte without having a pasty. What’s a pasty? Beef, onion, and potato baked in a buttery flaky crust — your own little meat pie. It’s like a bite out of history.

Butte Farmer’s Market. Heritage park, June-mid-September. Saturdays, 9 a.m.-1 p.m.

Whitefish

Café Kandahar. ©Whitefish Partners

Café Kandahar. This 22 year-old restaurant is located in the heart of Big Mountain. French and Louisiana influenced cuisine with a Montana twist, like the pan seared elk roulade with forest mushrooms, spinach, Montana goat cheese, pine-nuts, mashed Yukon golds, and pomegranate glace. 3824 Big Mountain Road. 862-6247.

Farmer’s Market at the Mountain Mall Lot. Mid-May-September. Thursdays, 4 p.m.-6:30 p.m.

The Downtown Farmer’s Market. Central Ave. May 31- Mid-September. Tuesdays, 5 p.m.-7:30 p.m.

Whitefish Huckleberry Days. Honor one of Montana’s sweetest and most celebrated berries. August 7-9. This year is the 20th anniversary of this beloved arts festival.

Three Forks, MT

Wheat Montana Farms, located at the headwaters of the Missouri, is where the Folkvords have farmed for three generations. Check out the deli and order up a John Deere sandwich. Additional delis in Billings, Bozeman, Great Falls, Helena, Kalispell, Missoula, and Polson.

Helena, MT

Real Food Market and Deli. 1096 Helena Ave. Boodles of local and organic foods to choose from.

Helena Farmer’s Market. Fuller and Neill Ave., April 26-November 1. Saturdays, 9 a.m.-1:30 p.m. and Wednesdays, 4 p.m.-6:30 p.m. (mid-July-September).

Benny’s Bistro. 108 E. Sixth Avenue. It’s a jazzy feast at lunch or dinner, featuring a range of hearty foods, from fritattas to pasties to pastries. Try the blackberry chicken salad or one of their famous European-style desserts, like the frangipani pear tart.

The No Sweat Café. 400 block, Last Chance Gulch. For breakfast and lunch. Leave your guns and cell phones behind, and get Zen with the Tibetan toad, a combo of eggs, sprouts, sausage, and garlic.

Bozeman

Photo: Stu Spivack

Bozeman Community Food Coop. 908 W. Main St. A market and deli with a strong focus on local — most meat is Montana produced and produce is often sourced as part of the local farm-to-market program. Sandwiches, smoothies, soups, and outdoor dining.

Western Café. 443 E. Main St. 406-587-0436. Over the last six months, the owners have been working to return to the roots of the original and very local cowboy café. Order their chicken fried steak breakfast, biscuits and gravy, or cinnamon rolls.

Stockyard Café. 1018 E. Griffin. 406-586-9728. Part of its charm is that the service lacks any. Call ahead to make sure they’re open and don’t act like a sissy and ask for a spoon when you have a perfectly good fork to stir your coffee with. Go there to eat, a lot, especially when it comes to the banana bread French toast.

Plonk Wine. Montana boy Brett Evje recently acquired the restaurant and is working with local farmers and ranchers to source Montana ingredients. This elegant urban wine bar showcases bison tenderloin, alongside a world class selection of cheeses and a very drinkable ginger basil martini, not to mention the extensive wine list.

Bogert Farmer’s Market. Bogert Park. May-October, Saturdays 9 a.m.-1 p.m.

Gallatin Valley Farmer’s Market. Gallatin County Fairgrounds. July-October, Saturdays
9 a.m.-12 p.m.

Clinton, MT

Home of the Rock Creek Lodge Testicle Festival, a debauched event that occurs every September. You’ll know you’re close when you see the billboard of a cartoon bull guarding his family jewels. Rocky Mountain oysters, or “Montana tendergroin,” are harvested from young bulls between 2-4 months of age.

If you aren’t lucky enough to attend a Montana wedding/branding party (it happens), you might consider hitting up this festival or any of the others across the state to get the freshest sampling of Montana’s most novel offerings.

And in case you were wondering, there are approximately 3 g fat, 375 mg cholesterol, 26 g protein, 1 g carbs, and 135 calories per 100 grams of testicle.

Missoula, MT

Photo: Justin Knabb

Circle Square Farmer’s Market. Mid-May to the end of October. Saturdays, 8:30 a.m-12 p.m. and Tuesdays in July and August, 5:45 p.m.-7:15 p.m. One of the oldest markets in the state — get there early and bring a big bag.

Clark Fork River Market. Caras Park. May-Oct, Saturdays, 9 a.m.-12 p.m. Local lamb, cheese, and homemade pastas.

Scotty’s Table. 131 S. Higgins. Contemporary cuisine, located in the historic Wilma building on the banks of the Clark Fork River. Seasonal menu, featuring such decadent treats as bison osso bucco, Montana farro risotto, and Paradise Farms grass-fed beef.

Biga Pizza. 241 West Main St. A community pizza joint, minus the checkered tablecloths. Try the Flathead Cherry: house-made spicy Italian sausage, cherry chutney, smoked gouda, mozzarella, garlic oil, and parsley.

Red Bird Wine Bar and Restaurant. 111 North Higgins Ave. Intimate fine dining or luscious casual treats. Among its ample charms, the desserts are creative and wonderful. Try the trio of tea sorbets, including the Evenings in Missoula.

The Flathead Lake Area

The Flathead Lake area is home to fertile orchards and a lively lake culture. Any drive along the east side of the lake provides numerous opportunities to stop at cherry and fruit stands for the most succulent fodder of the season.

Polson, MT

Photo: Stewart

Farmer’s Market at the Masonic Temple. May 31-mid-October. Tuesdays and Fridays, 9 a.m.-1 p.m.

The Polson Cherry Festival. July 18 and 19. Partake in this family friendly event with hundreds of local vendors. Your kids never looked so cute with cherry-stained fingers and faces.

Big Fork

The Orchard at Flathead Lake grows fresh cherries, peaches, pears, and plums. Don’t miss their famous barbeque sauce and apple butter.

Kalispell

Kalispell Farmer’s Market. Center St. and 5th. Third week of April to third week of October. Tuesdays, 4:30 p.m.- 6 p.m. and Saturdays, 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m.

Columbia Falls

Mountain Lake Fisheries. Home of world-class Whitefish caviar, known for its crunchy, non-fishy, non-bitter taste. Whitefish caviar comes from Lake Superior Whitefish, harvested wild from Flathead Lake.

This is a sustainable fishery. You can find the caviar at numerous locations, including the Happy Mama in Missoula, All about Memories in Columbia Falls, the West Glacier Mercantile, and select Alberston’s and Safeway markets.

Polebridge

Polebridge Mercantile, an old northern icon, is located just outside Glacier National Park. Local baker Deb Kaufman woos visitors with cinnamon rolls and huckleberry bear claws that rival even the most memorable grizzly in the park.

Community Connection:

Planning a road trip to Montana? Connect with one of our local experts for more advice. These folks have written in-depth guides on everything from classic Montana river trips to 9 Backpacking trips that will blow your mind.

For a complete listing of our Montana guides and articles, please click here.

Photo: bloomsberries

Cruising Houston’s Bellaire Blvd, Adriana and I watched as the English and Spanish of storefront signs gave way to Chinese and Vietnamese.

We pulled into one of the shopping centers lining the street, and found ourselves before an imposing Asian supermarket, wedged between a Halal Chinese restaurant and a Korean tofu and barbecue joint.

***

As the fourth largest city in the U.S., Houston enjoys the diversity of its counterparts around the country. In addition to Latino and African-American populations, the city is home to a growing Asian-American community, who began arriving in the 1870s.

Photo: Shayan (USA)

An original Chinatown was located on Smith Street, near the present-day Alley Theatre, but the city’s growth prevented the neighborhood from expanding.

Today, 9% of Houston’s 2.2 million are Asian American, roughly twice the national average.

Bellaire Blvd lacks the history of the Chinatowns etched into major cities such as San Francisco and New York. Rather, it resembles San Diego’s Convoy St, lined with young businesses that showcase the area’s Asian heritage.

***

Photo: KaiChanVong

Making our way past Shanghai- and Szechuan-style eateries, we singled out a dim sum restaurant and joined several parties waiting to be seated. The chatter of Cantonese, Mandarin, and even Tagalog filled the close entry room, with not a Texas drawl to be heard.

Glancing over the menu of porridge, dumplings, and rice noodle rolls, I could already imagine the taste of neatly wrapped, translucent har gow, slippery cheung fun, and crisp, deep-fried sesame balls.

In multicultural Houston, there’s much more to the local cuisine than BBQ and Tex-Mex.

Community Connection:

All you Chinatown aficionados out there, how many of Trips’ 8 most colorful Chinatowns have you visited? Share your answer in the comments!

Photo: McPig

The vineyards and golden sun of Portugal rival any scene from southern France and the south Pacific. Its diversity ranges from turquoise surf, to grilled sardines and cold beer, to an inland hike with vistas that gaze upon endless vineyards.

Eat: Grilled fish, fresh cheese, and wine

Photo: *madalena-pestana*

Creative and traditional cooking isn’t hard to find in Portugal. Locally grown and produced specialties can be discovered in the form of soups, grilled meats, fresh fish, sheep’s milk cheese, unique wines, pastries, and fruit from the Azores and Madeira islands.

The best way to sample the cuisine is to situate yourself for a while in Lisbon. In the neighborhoods of Alfama, Chiado, and Barrio Alto, you’ll find a mix of traditional and modern dishes that use the same locally grown, fresh ingredients.

After your immersion in the capital, pick a region based on the food and wine you liked the best.

Were you savoring garlic soup? Or enjoying that quintessential Portuguese dish of pork and clams with a full-bodied Alentejo wine? Then head southeast into the Alentejo and graze your way from the coast to the Spanish border.

Destinations

Community Connection to Portugal

Did you find yourself enamored most with leafy green soups, caldos verdes, and that white, crisp Vinho Verde? Then make your way north to the Minho and hike amidst the vineyards, reveling in the hearty stews at their source.

Maybe it was the freshly grilled fish and lemon wedge that grabbed your attention. If you discovered how well wines from nearby Palmela, Setúbal, Colares, and Carcavelos went with the urban cuisine, then continue in Lisbon and nearby Cascais.

Alternatively, good coastal routes travel north to O Porto or south toward Sagres and Tavira, stocked with perfectly grilled sea fare at workers’ cafes and seaside eateries.

Pray: Spiritual upliftment

The shrine of Our Lady of Fatima is one of the most famous holy sites in Portugal. Of course, there are others equally powerful and no less important. Here are a few:

Though Gothic and Romanesque churches in Lisbon were destroyed during the earthquake of 1755, many beautiful and soulful places of prayer survive all across Portugal. Two particularly lovely churches can be found in the villages of Rates and in Rio Mau, both near Póvoa de Varzim north of O Porto.

Photo: author

Braga is considered the nation’s religious heart due to the historic role the church played there. It’s home to the major shrine Bom Jesus do Monte.

A hike in the north-central Serra da Estrêla Natural Park, stretching from east of Coimbra to the Spanish border, offers profound landscapes that move the spirit.

The Caminho Português, the pilgrimage road through Portugal to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, is the historic pilgrims’ road. They made their way northward to O Porto and then onward to Baiona and Vigo before veering inland to Santiago.

The healing sulfuric springs of Caldas da Rainha, north of Lisbon and south of Nazaré, are near the coast. Though its fame peaked in the 15th and later centuries, it likely has a more ancient history of healing and veneration.

Love: From vineyards to castles to beaches

Photo: Teosaurio

The land that gave us fado — that lyrical and emotionally charged Portuguese blues — is full of romantic spots.

The Minho River’s sinewy passage, creating the northern border between Portugal and Spain, goes from remote mountain passes — where wolves still roam — to the Atlantic, passing through unique wine country along the way.

Photo: Fr Antunes

Lisbon boasts many elevated lookout points. At sunset, scan over the Tejo River, where one can sip wine at a café table or stroll through the Alfama listening to lone musicians while little bistros beckon passersby with their fragrant smells.

In Sintra, visit the fairytale hilltop estates and the green, rolling parks and forests with their inviting footpaths.

Southern Tavira is a small and friendly fishing town with beautiful coastlines, beaches, and explorable little islands accessible by row boat.

Evora’s wall-enclosed 14th-century town offers a medieval mood as well as ancient, well-preserved Roman ruins, in the heart of cork, olive, and wine country.

You can find a medieval hilltop castle in Leiria, as well as pine forests planted by Portugal’s romantic poet king, Dom Dinis, who ruled during the late 13th and early 14th centuries.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Beebe is also the author of Eat, Pray, Love in Spain — the first in this series.

For more lesser known spots in Portugal, have a read of Claudio Silva’s article Beyond Lisbon and Algarve. If you’ve packed your surfboard, Rhys Stacker can tell you where to find some excellent Portuguese surf.

Since she left us, she’s trekked the entire 8-day Great Ocean Walk solo and has gone unplugged for a month and a half in Western Australia. No Internet for that long is impressive indeed.

Delphine is from the Brittany region in France’s northwest, home to countless manors and chateaux and beautiful coast. There are old fortified towns, such as Sant-Maloù , if you care to take a trip back in time.

Brittany also has the distinction of being one of only three places on the planet — along with Corsica and China — where you can see pink granite in its natural form. The Côte de Granite Rose is a 30+ km stretch of coastline with pink granite cliffs that have been the subject of many an inspired artist.

French gastronomy

But down to it. The French are renowned for their gastronomic side, so I asked Delphine to talk a bit about Brittany and its cuisine. This is what she had to say:

“The coast is just amazing… walking along the sea, with the fresh wind, the sound of the sea is just so nice (I miss that so much!!).

On the galettes you usually put some salty things like ham, cheese, eggs, tomatoes and/or whatever you want, and you finish your meal having some crêpes on which you put some chocolate, fruits, sugar, lemon, ice cream… so yummy!!”

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

See what a fellow couch surfer, Maxim, had to say about culture in his home country of Russia.

For more ideas of what the heck to do in France, read Tanya Brothen’s Beyond Paris article.

Photo: avlxyz

The close, dark store smells of garlic, chilies, maybe a little ginger. Racks overflow with instant noodle cups and bags of shrimp chips. In my hands a six-pack of kimchi ramen and a tray of freshly made tteok (Korean glutinous rice cakes).

I walk up to the counter, fumble in my pocket, and pluck out a wad of worn peso bills, still mesmerized by my discovery of this genuine, expansive Korean community lodged in the center of Mexico City’s tourist district—the Zona Rosa.

Destinations

Community Connection to Mexico

Koreans first came to Mexico in the early 1900s, fleeing the Japanese occupation of their homeland. Many found tough, low-paying work on farms in the country’s northern regions, where pockets of Mexicanized Korean communities still exist.

But Mexico City’s Koreans are more recently arrived, the result of South Korea’s economic boom of the ‘60s and ‘70s. In the D.F., traditions intertwine.

You’re almost as likely to find your mouth watering at the scent of bulgogi as tacos al pastor in the Zona Rosa.

While no immediately observable synthesis has taken place (you can’t get kimchi tacos here like those served up by Los Angeles’ Kogi truck), strolling down Calle Florencia between Reforma and Chapultepec makes for a culturally disorienting experience.

Community Connection

For more on Mexico City’s Korean community, check out the Matador Travel blog “Los Coreanos.” Curious what else you don’t know about the largest metropolis in the world? Give our “Green Guide to Mexico City” a read.

Photo: Rob West

1. Tacos

Photo: Alaskan Dude

You may think you know the taco. You’ve met it in Chicago or even Beijing. But you do not know the taco until you are standing on the corner of a sun-flooded street at 7 AM, elbow to elbow with hungry Mexicans on their way to work, watching the taquero carve meat off the spit, spoon it into warm corn tortillas, fold said tortillas into small moons, and repeat the process, fluently, rapidly.

You do not know the taco until you dress it with delicate thin guacamole, cilantro, and perhaps a dabbling of red chili sauce, and it fills your mouth with the flavors of corn, meat, and spice. Until you use your fingers to pick up the little biteful of filling that fell out onto the Styrofoam plate. Then you know the taco.

2. Chilaquiles

Chilaquiles are yet another Mexican food invented by an enterprising woman faced with a pile of stale tortillas. Nowadays, they’ve moved from creative leftovers to the star of the breakfast show. They should come sizzling, the green or red sauce bubbling in a clay pot, the white cheese popping with freshness.

There should be raw sliced onions, epazote (a Mexican herb used in many dishes), white cheese, and sour cream to create that blend of tangy and creamy that defines this dish.

You can order red chilaquiles, made with a blend of tomatoes and dark purple and red chiles, or green chilaquiles, made with the sharp, seedy goodness of tomatillos. If you’re in Oaxaca, you have to head to the Merced market for the best chilaquiles in Mexico.

3. Tortillas Fresh Off the Comal

Photo: Francisco Chaves

The comal is a round, clay Mexican grill, upon which señoras heat fresh hand-pressed tortillas. Watch and you’ll see the tortillas puff up a little, at which point the señoras will flip them briskly. When they’ve firmed and cooked through, they’re filled or topped to make quesadillas, empanadas, or memelas.

Quesadillas and empanadas are tortillas filled with mushrooms, squash flowers, chile-rubbed pork, or huitlacoche. They’re delicious, but in my opinion the way to really experience the simply joy of this tortilla is to try a memela. A warm tortilla, a thin layer of black beans, and queso fresco. Nada mas.

4. Molé

Photo: Moody 75

“You first need to get the peanuts, you get the salt and the bread, you grind and you fry the chiles, you boil the chocolate…get cinnamon and bananas, get cloves and oregano, get thyme and the blackest pepper, you grind it in México!”

Look no further than Mexico’s beloved Lila Downs for a celebration of molé. An indigenous specialty, it is used to celebrate weddings, funerals, birthdays, Sunday afternoons, and the richness of life. You can’t leave Mexico without a little molé in your blood.

5. Fruta con chile

Photo: Michale

Yes, I know it’s quite simple. Take a mango, sprinkle some chili powder and sauce on it, douse it in lime, and you’re done. But the flavor combo is so quintessentially Mexican, and so ubiquitous, that you can’t pass it up. Literally—there are stands hawking mangos, jicamas, cucumbers, and whatever else is in season con chile on just about every street corner.

You’ve got the vibrant sweetness of the fruit with the slightly dangerous spark of the chile—a bite of Mexico, in a word.

6. Micheladas and Sueros

Photo: Sette

As the caipirhina is to Brazil and the mojito is to Cuba, so micheladas and sueros are to Mexico. The michelada is a squint-and-tear-inducing combo of chile sauces mixed with beer. If you can drink it and not wince, you’re meant to stick around Mexico for a while. A suero is beer with salted lime juice.

Drink either down with a Dos Equis, Indio, Corona, or Victoria.

7. Tamales

Photo: phil_g

“Taaaaaammaaaaallllleeeeeeeeeess!!” goes the refrain, an ear-splitting ululation heard blocks away. Or sometimes, when a man pedaling a tamale cart passes, “Tamales, tamales, tamales, tamales,” the hypnotic mechanical repetition drawing people from their houses like zombies.

The tamal, swaddled in banana leaves or cornhusks, tasting of moist maize and meat and slow-cooked sauce, is the heart of all things Mexican.

Opening it is like opening an intimate secret, a gift. Inside you’ll find soft grainy maize, and nestled within it (depending on the type of tamal you’ve chosen) chicken with black, yellow or green mole, strips of poblano or jalapeno pepper, thick bean paste, or a simple sprinkling of herbs.

8. Elotes

Photo: Sarah Menkedick

At around 5 PM, the elote carts roll into the streets. Steam bellows from the huge metal pots, in which thick hominy is cooking in herbed juices. Order either an elote, which is corn on the cob smothered with mayonnaise, fresh white cheese, chile powder, and lime, or an esquite, which is corn in a cup with the same concoction.

9. Pozole

In my experience, all cultures have their traditional soups. In France, it’s French onion thick with cheese and bubbling, in China it’s a combination of medicinal herbs and fruits, in Russia it’s borscht…and in Mexico, it’s pozole. A steaming bowl of pozole should clear out the sinuses and give you a tangy, lime-infused jolt of energy.

You can order a variety of broths, all of which should come with chewy hominy, crunchy radishes, shaved cabbage, and plenty of lime to squeeze over the top.

10. Barbacoa

Want to find the roots of Texas BBQ? Head to one of Mexico’s markets and order up a plate of barbacoa. Traditionally a dish reserved for village festivals and weddings, barbacoa is made by roasting a whole sheep or lamb in a pit dug in the ground.

The meat slow-cooks for days underneath the cover of maguey leaves. No marinades or sauces are used. When the meat is tender and pulling apart, it’s taken out of the pit and served with a variety of sauces, guacamole, and lime.

So forget your experiences with Mexican food up until now and remember—you can’t leave Mexico until you’ve wept from the power of the chile, and held a warm tortilla in your hand.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Can’t make it to Mexico just yet? Then test drive some of the Best Taquerias in San Francisco, instead.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Feature photo by G u i d o

Cheap and Romantic Lodging Options

Forget staying in hotels, even the budget ones. Southern France is filled with self-catering urban apartments and rural bungalows. Renting one of these for a week or two cuts down lodging costs by 30% to 50% and honestly, they up the romance and authenticity of being there by 200%.

The beauty of renting a place is that you unpack once and spend the rest of your time exploring the area– eating, drinking, wandering, hiking– without stress. And that is how one arrives at the good life.

Some suggested sites to search for your temporary home away from home are:

• Top Rural in France
• Homelidays in France
• Craigslist: Look for housing listings under France for Marseilles, Montpellier, Lyon, and Toulouse).
• For gîtes (rural, self-catering houses and apartments) in Provence French Connections has some romantic bargains if you hunt about.

Photo above by van Ort

Eating and Drinking

Having your self-catering accommodation offers the next big economic and romantic move: the ability to shop at the famous Provencal daily and weekly markets and sample the true terroir of the land: locally-grown food and wine.

Buy your fruits and vegetables, cheeses and sausages from the people who make them, as with the wine. Rent a bike, land your hands on one of the GR foot trail maps, and cycle and walk to villages and towns on market day.

Weekly food markets occur in nearly every town and village. When you arrive at your home base, ask the tourist office for a list of nearby markets.

And always ask the locals. If there is one thing people love to talk about it’s their local food and wine, and where and from whom to buy it. Tourist offices are also well equipped to help you with details.

Flea Markets

Most flea markets occur on Sundays, though some are on Saturdays. Flea markets bring out the diverse color of society and are a great way to see the old fashions and aesthetics of a place.

Moreover, flea markets let you find a one-of-a-kind treasure to take home at a bargain price. Again, the local tourist office can tell you when and where these occur. Avignon and Montpellier have terrific flea markets as do other main towns.

Cultural Activities for Free (or Almost)

Music in the open air, galleries showing off the artistic genius of the area, hikes, sunset vistas from perfect perches– these are many of the free experiences you can find easily in Provence. Concerts are listed on church doors and at tourist offices. Gallery exhibits often have a sidewalk billboard announcing a little hidden plaza where there’s an exhibit.

The person from whom you rented your apartment can tell you the best place to watch the sunset in their town. (In Avignon, it is at the top of the Rocher des Doms gardens). Also ask them where the best trails are for hikes.

If museums are a must, take advantage of the all-city admission deals where you purchase a pass for a one or two-day access to all sites, rather than paying the higher individual admission fees.

Finally, rent a bike and/or buy a good walking map and use your own muscles to motor about. Slow Travel France is a great resource and offers terrific ideas and guidance for hikes in the Luberon.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Two Itineraries for Touring Provence

These two one-week itineraries capture the highlights of Provence. They complement each other well so if you have two full weeks, I’d give them both a go.

Week One: Arles, Nîmes, and the Camargue, or, The Roman, Romany, and Cowboy Route

• Make Arles your home base—renting a studio in the heart of town, where you can enjoy strolls in the streets Van Gogh once walked.
• Dine at the family-run places that advertise plat du jour, repas à prix fixe, or formules (set menus). These reasonably-priced set menus and specials tend to offer local, seasonal foods at the best prices.

• Arles’ market days are Wednesday and Saturday.

• Rent bikes to tour the Camargue, which you can do from Arles. Be sure to have plenty of sunscreen and mosquito repellent. July and August are the worst months for mosquitoes, but May, June, September and October (maybe even November) can be bad as well.
• Take the train for a day trip to Nîmes. If you want to go further afield, make another day trip to Montpellier, to the west, or Marseilles, to the east.

• Nîmes’ market day is Monday.

• Take a local bus to Les Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer for a beach day, enjoying shellfish, chilled dry rosé wine, and this pilgrimage site where it is believed many sacred Marys, including Mary Magdalene, and other biblical figures, arrived by boat from the Holy Land around AD 40.

• Les-Stes-Maries’ markets days are Monday and Friday.

Photo above by Wolfgang Staudt

Week Two: Avignon, Le Luberon, and the Pont du Gard, or, the Medieval Towns and Villages Route

• Make Avignon your home base. A great hotel, if you decide on that option over the lodging suggestions above, is the Hotel Medieval, which rents studios with kitchenettes at weekly rates. It’s in the heart of medieval Avignon.
• Allow 2-3 days just to soak up Avignon’s cultural, culinary, and social scenes. Enjoy the gallery exhibits, the church concerts, the food and flea markets, and the bistros scattered throughout the old Papal town.

• Avignon’s market day is Monday. It also has the daily Les Halles covered food market that is a treat to shop.

• Take a bus to Gordes and hike around this mountaintop town for the day: Take a linking bus or hire a taxi to the Abbaye de Senanque in a hidden valley nearby.

• Take a day bus to Uzès and the Pont du Gard, preferably during Uzès market days of Wednesday or Saturday.

• Take the train to Aix-en-Provence for the day and soak up the university atmosphere (which also means good eats at good prices).

• Aix’s market is open every day on the Place Richelme.

• Make a day trip to St-Rémy-de-Provence and enjoy a smaller-scale but quintessential Provencal town on the edge of the Alpilles limestone mountains.
• St.-Rémy’s market day is Wednesday.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more tips to travel France on the cheap, check out How To Travel in France for Less Than $100 a Day, or our list of 10 Free Things To Do in Paris.

And for a more personal take on travel in France, check out these blogs from Matador community members: The Quiet of the Dordogne, by member Maija, or Is There Any Where I’d Rather Be?, by member terryodee.

If you are traveling alone, tapas bars both pull and repel: you want to be a part of the mob scene, eating and drinking, but you feel you’ll stick out, or it’s so crowded you don’t have your own mob of friends to help push you in.

Many times in the past I’ve wandered by a packed tapas place in Spain’s cities and was dying to go in but felt intimidated as a solo female traveler. But after 22 years of facing the invisible barrier, I’ve overcome the psychological obstacles that held me back.

Photo by jenny downing

Here are 5 tried and true tips to have a marvelous time joining the mob scene at tapas places and enjoying some of Spain’s best cuisine:

1. Pick the tapas place well.

Many cities in Spain have certain streets known exclusively for their tapas. Ask around for these spots. Once there, go into the places that are mobbed with warm, gregarious locals. This is always the sign of a place with great tapas and a welcoming attitude.

2. Read the menu from the outside.

From the edge of the bar, locate the chalk board or printed listing of tapas being offered and decide what you want. Memorize it, as well as what you want to drink. Then slowly move in.

Photo by clspeace

3. Don’t be intimidated when you order.

Everyone is packed in? No room at the bar to place your order? No matter, Spanish bartenders are some of the most aware and mindful people on the planet. Have faith in them and patiently worm your way toward the bar.

As you do, one of two things will happen. Either the bartender will make eye contact and expect you to tell him what you want to drink and eat, or, the sea will start to part and you’ll eventually get to the bar counter and can place your order there.

Then, hold the spot for as long as you like. Or, pay up and carry your drink and tapa out to the edge again. I prefer holding the spot. It’s more central and fly-on-the-wall-ish.

Photo by Brian Solis

4. As you eat and drink, exude confidence.

Do whatever it takes, a silent mantra, if necessary: “I belong here, I am a part of this afternoon/night, I belong.”

Suddenly, you do belong, you have a place. Spaniards love confidence and honestly. Even if no one is meeting you there or talking to you, you obviously are there for some good reason. That confident look says it all. Relax, soak it up, watch people, take in what they are eating and drinking, what they are wearing and talking about.

In doing this, you expand the sensory experience of these rich, vibrant places.

Photo by Beebe Bahrami

5. When you are done, move on.

Check out the next place that strikes your fancy. Or, locate the perfect spot for dinner and when you are seated, exude the same confident posture and look. It’s infectious.

One last parting word of advice: In the big cities and the really swank and touristy parts of town, always know where your wallet is and don’t have anything on you that can be easily pick-pocketed or that is of great value. This foresight also makes for a more relaxing and enjoyable night out.

Community Connection

For more on Spain, including blogs, local travelers to connect with, local experts to show you around, and volunteer opportunities, please check out Matador’s Spain page.

Photo by Phil Whitehouse

Free Chocolate in Brussels

Dark chocolate rules in Brussels, with palaces at Godiva, Galler and Leonidas, to name a few. Many shops will offer a free taste and cafes often serve a piece of chocolate with your coffee.

Photo by kaitlyn means.

For those who prefer milk chocolate, the Cailler Nestle factory in Broc, Switzerland offers free tours and samples. Incidentally, Broc flanks Gruyeres, the cheese-making town.

Free Alcohol

Belgium produces over 600 beers, including Haacht’s new fruit beer. Haacht offers a free one-hour guided tour of their sprawling facility and a taste of one low and one high-fermentation beer.

Many members of the Vignerons Independants d’Aquitaine offer free cellar visits and wine tastings, some of them in Saint Emilion, a world heritage site in Bordeaux.

Cognac also flows freely in France. Visit Le Cognac for information about free tours and tastings.

Free Cheese

Feeling the need for some food groups other than sugar and alcohol? Roquefort Papillon, is where the famous blue cheese matures in the rock crevices of Mont Combalou.

Tours of the caves are free and include a nibble at the end.

Photo by Coralie Ferreira

Henri Willig’s cheese farms in the Netherlands offers free tours and tastings of Gouda cheese.

Free Museums

Entry to permanent collections at British museums was made free in 2001. Take advantage by visiting the mummies at the British Museum, the Botticellis at The National Gallery and the dinosaurs at The Natural History Museum.

Instead of waiting in line at the Louvre, try the Musee du Petit Palais. The name is misleading since the museum houses 1300 pieces spanning many centuries. Several of the masters, including Monet and Cezanne, are represented here.

Paris is synonymous with fashion, and the Musee Galliera’s permanent collection features trends from the 17th to the 21th century.

Free Concerts

Vienna’s elegant architecture is an appropriate setting for waltzes and balls. The cheapest seats, however, are in front of the Rathaus (city hall), which broadcasts free films of famous concerts during the summer months.

Salzburg, setting for The Sound of Music, offers similar shows on a giant screen at the Salzburg Residenz Square.

Photo by Luz A. Villa.

Although Mozart was born in Salzburg, he often stayed in Prague, the fairy-tale city of a hundred spires. The Villa Bertramka now houses a Mozart museum and concert hall.

Tickets are not cheap, but there’s nothing stopping you from sitting in the surrounding gardens. I once sat outside on an autumn day drinking my coffee and listening to the live music floating out of the concert hall.

Photo by Gideon.

Free Transportation

Europe’s canal lined streets can be seen for free, by bike.

Barcelona (Bicing), Lyon (Vélo’v), London(OYBike), Call a Bike (Berlin, Frankfurt), Copenhagen/Helsinki (CIOS), Seville (Sevici) are among the cities that have hopped on board an almost-free program that allows tourists to pick up and drop off bikes at designated locations.

Fees are minimal, and the first half-hour of use is often free. The new Velib bikes in Paris, for example, cost only 1 Euro per hour.

Photo by Christopher Walker

Free Churches

Europe’s churches are rich repositories of history, and entrance is usually free.

Westminster Abbey in London is the final resting place for generations of British monarchs, and its Poet’s Corner commemorates famous British writers.

The view alone at hilltop Vyšehrad is worth paying for. The Cathedral of Saint Paul and Peter, as well as the Vyšehrad cemetery, contains the remains of many famous people from Czech history.

The Vatican Museum, home of the Sistine Chapel, is free on the last Sunday of each month. Entrance to Saint Peter’s Basilica is free, providing visitors with access to several famous art works as well as the Popes’ tombs.

Tourists can take sanctuary at Notre Dame de Paris, the Gothic masterpiece of stone lacework made famous by Victor Hugo. Free organ recitals are held on Sundays at 4:30 p.m.

Photo by Sven Lindner

Free Gardens

Europe’s public gardens are more than rows of trees and flowers. They can be outdoor community centers and art exhibitions.

Hungary’s Margaret Island is a green oasis in the Danube, between Buda and Pest. A joggers’ track around the outside of the park encircles themed gardens, soccer fields, swimming pools, and a petting zoo.

Bloemenmarkt, in Amsterdam, is the only floating flower market in the world. The flower stalls, awash with exotic colors and varieties, are perched on houseboats.

The Glasgow Botanic Gardens is internationally renowned for its glass houses and exotic collection of tree ferns from Australia as well as plants from several continents.

There are events scheduled throughout the year, including art exhibitions, plant sales and guided tours.

Photo by Antonio Zugaldia

Free Festivals

The largest free open air festival takes place in July, in Ghent, Belgium. The event features pop music, folk, rock ‘n’ roll, hiphop, jazz, and R’n'B on all the city squares. Visitors can also enjoy theatre, comedy, exhibitions and boat trips on the river Lys.

The Copenhagen Jazz Festival is held over ten days in July. Performances take place on the streets as well as in cafes, city parks, and event centers.

Free Tours

Although the activity is not actually free, visitors pay whatever they think is appropriate for guided walking tours that last about three hours. The tours were recently introduced in Prague and Berlin .

Do you know some free activities in Europe? Please share by leaving a comment below!

Your purchases help support Matador.

Feature photo by Ruth L. Photo above by IanL.

Halfway from Florence to Arezzo, the train came to an unexpected halt. It was late August and steamy outside, and the train wasn’t air-conditioned. We sat there for at least half an hour, but no one uttered a word of complaint.

Instead, folks took the opportunity to eat lunch. Passengers chatted, mostly about the food. The unexpected setback turned into a pleasant afternoon reprieve. Here was Italy in a nutshell: enjoying the moment and not worrying about the destination. And of course, always, Mangia!

The best way to get the real deal Italy is to do it up slow and local. By planting yourself in a location for at least one week (instead of trying to “do” Italy in 10 days), you’ll experience more culture and joie de vivre than by running from one monument (or city) to the next.

Follow these 5 tips on traveling and eating slow all over Italy and you’ll do it up Italian style: nice and easy, piano, piano, slowly:

1. Understand Italy’s Diverse Regions

Keep in mind that the boot has 20 regions, each with its own indigenous culture, food traditions and climate. Each region is like a mini-country, with much to explore.

That’s why it’s imperative to pick an area and stay planted for at least a week. Visit the same café every day and chat up your neighbors. Before you know it you’ll feel like a native.

Tuscany

Birthplace of the Renaissance and home to countless influential personalities like Dante and Machiavelli, this region’s inhabitants are perhaps the most food-centric in the country. Whether you stay in Florence or in a medieval town like Lucca, rest assured everyone will take a healthy interest in what you are cooking and eating.

The food here is hearty and simple: from ribollita (soup made with vegetables, beans, and chunks of bread) to beefsteak and panzanella (salad made with bread).

Lazio

Steeped in history that goes back thousands of years, this region is home to ruins like Tivoli and Ostia Antica. Capital city Rome is home to endless pleasures, in terms of art and a robust culinary tradition.

When in Rome, do it like the Romans: eat delicacies like carciofi alla guida (twice fried artichokes), rigatoni con la pajata (calf intestines) or bucatini all’amatriciana (spicy tomato and pancetta sauce).

Veneto

Highlights of this northern region include the 15 mile-long open-air museum of the Brenta Canal, Verona (of “Romeo and Juliet” fame), and Venice, at one time the crossroads between Europe and the Orient.

With ingredients such as pomegranates, pine nuts, and raisins, the exotic flavor remains in dishes such as seafood risotto. Beans and polenta are commonplace, as is minestra di pasta e fagioli (soup with pasta and beans).

Photo by MumbleyJoe.

2. Stay In a Vacation Rental

To truly experience Italy, you need more than a few days at a hotel or hostel. Forget the must-sees and long day trips. You’ll experience more culture by staying in one region, exploring your environs in concentric circles and settling in a home like a local.

Villas

Villas are like hostels, only a hell of a lot more fancy. Piedmont’s Villa San Lorenzo Di Bovicino includes walks through winding vineyards, hikes in the Alps, and visits to Liguria (think fresh pesto) and Turin (largest Egyptian museum outside Cairo; chocolate).

City apartments

These are ideal for singles or couples looking to get a taste of the La Dolce Vita. Stay at a flat in Rome built on the ruins of Pompey’s Theater – Rome’s first theater, located on via dei Chiavari, near Campo dei Fiori. Rates vary.

Local farms

For inexpensive accommodations, as well as the chance to see the Italy outside of art and museums – stay at Villa Grassina, 15 miles outside Florence, or at Fonte di Papa outside Rome.

Both of these agricultural stays will give you access to the outdoors and relaxation, yet you’re close enough to frequent the big cities for entertainment. You might also consider Wwoofing.

Photo by Agni dalle Bande Nere.

3. Do it like a Locavore.

It’s no coincidence that the Slow Food movement originated in Italy. What other country is so devoted to the art of eating?

To help support local economy and agriculture, buy fresh fare at local open-air markets.

And as noted by Kevin Gould, when it comes time to eat out, the best way to go local in Rome is to look for simple tavernas where you’ll most likely find local specialties and a relaxing atmosphere:

Rome: Dino’s Express, Via Tacito, 80

Perugia: Taverna del Lupo, Via Ansidei, 21

Florence: Taverna del Bronzino, Villa del Ruote 27r

4. Take the Train

Although it has occasional hiccups (like breaking down unexpectedly), taking the train across Italy is an experience worth writing home about. Traveling from point-to-point in Italy is inexpensive, and you can purchase a rail pass for longer trips such as Rome to Palermo.

This trip is long (10-13 hours), but worth the adventure. Once at the port of Villa San Giovani, the train cars are rolled onto barges for crossing of the Strait of Messina, which lasts about an hour. Then they are rolled back onto the tracks in eastern Sicily for the rest of the journey to Palermo. A one-way ticket costs about 73 euros.

Photo by Hyougushi.

5. Explore Backwoods Destinations

Don’t forget the less traveled but all the more interesting regions of Italy. You might see fewer museums here, but fewer tourists.

Abruzzo

With Abruzzo National Park and local delicacies like wild mushrooms and wild boar ham, and yes, plenty of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, how can you go wrong?

Puglia

Sparkling seas, a rugged landscape, and passionate local food traditions abound in the heel of Italy’s boot. Each month, a different food is celebrated, based on whatever is in season.

And you know those cute little pasta ears, orecchiette? Those are a national dish here, served with broccoli rabe and salted fish.

Sicily

With miles of vineyards to rival Piedmont and Tuscany, Italy’s largest island is unspoiled by modern life. The Mediterranean diet is king here, with plenty of local fish, lemons, and oranges. Add eye-popping blue seas and olive groves to the food feast, not to mention Sicilian gelato and local wines.

Community Connection!

Get in touch with Italy experts from the Matador community before planning your trip.

Suz, or “diastro Americano” as her Italian cousins call her, knows all the best wine bars and live music venues of Rome. Julianne is a writer and photographer, currently working on a book about the Italian Renaissance from her base in Venice. KatieBas has lived with her husband in Rome for over 5 years.