Bundoran Beach / Photo: dusi_bbg

1. Bundoran Beach

Surfers know beaches, and the world championships were held at Bundoran in ‘97. Since then, this little town has played host to a number of other high-profile tournaments.

They come for The Peak, one of Europe’s best waves, and the locals will be only too pleased to tell you about its “nice clean barrel” and “steep, steep drop-in.”

No, I don’t understand either. But the beach itself is a real beauty, stretching for over 2km, and surfing is not compulsory.

Getting there: Leave the N15 at Bundoran and drive through town following the coast road to the signposted beach.

Photo: Sandhouse Hotel

2. Rossnowlagh Beach

Also known as the Heavenly Cove, this is a little farther up the coast and is another destination for surfers. If you’re not exactly world-class material you might prefer it here, where you won’t be lining up beside the best of the best for a crack at The Peak.

Wind-surfing, kite-surfing, and of course swimming are also popular, and the beach is well served with a surf club, a lifeguard station, and a bar in the nearby Sandhouse Hotel. You can also take your car right onto the sand, though the speed limit down there is 15km/h for obvious reasons.

A lot of people come during the summer months, but at the same time it’s hidden away and you could easily pass by without knowing it. When I was driving in, I passed a shop who’s owners felt the need to advertise “open all year,” and a tiny brown church made entirely from corrugated iron.

Getting there: Leave Bundoran on the N15 northbound, and after approx. 5km take the R231 at Ballyshannon. The beach is signed after another 9km or so.

3. Murvagh Beach

Okay, you’ve gotten away from all those surfers.

Even though we’re in the northwest of Ireland here, the water at Murvagh Beach is probably the warmest anywhere in the country during the summer months, as the tide has to come in over a kilometer of shallow sandbanks, giving the sun plenty of time to do its work.

This also makes it an ideal beach for children, with swimming for adults being limited to an hour or so each side of the tide.

Photo: nicksarebi

The beach is approached through some beautiful woodland, and the dunes inland are designated a Special Area of Conservation.

Getting there: Rejoin the N15 at Ballintra. Head north. After about 3km, turn left at the sign for Donegal Golf Club. Continue to the next T-junction and turn left, and then after approx. 1km you’ll see a sign for Murvagh Forest Park. Turn right into the park to reach the beach car park.

4. Fintragh Beach

You’ll be sick of the sight of Blue Flags by the time you drive down the horribly, horribly steep hill to Fintragh Beach. Rocky outcrops stud this otherwise smooth strand. Not a surfer in sight.

Actually, there was no one of any kind in sight when I arrived. Only some little bunnies, hopping about on the grassy slopes behind the sand. It’s a hard place to leave, and I spent much longer than I meant to.

Getting there: Leave Killybegs heading west on the Fintragh Road. After approx. 2km, turn left where the beach is signposted.

5. The Silver Strand

This is the only one of the five not to have Blue Flag status, which is ironic, because in my opinion it’s the best of the lot.

Photo: michaelheinzkelleners

Not a beach for watersports; it’s a hidden little cove that makes me think more of brochures for the Greek Islands, only with sheep photoshopped in.

Hundreds of stone steps lead down a steep drop to a horseshoe-shaped strand, surrounded by a crescent of eroded cliffs and caves. The turquoise water is clear and most certainly not Greek in temperature.

Getting there: Follow the coast road around the southwest Donegal peninsula. Take a left where Malin Bheg is signposted and keep going for about 10 minutes. You’ll see signs for The Silver Strand.

Community Connection

More beach action from Matador:

10 Traveler’s Tips For Rocking A Nudist Beach
Photo Essay: 7 Beautifully Bizarre Beaches
World’s Best Beaches: Which Ones Make Your List?

Photo: Piotr Pawłowski

I WAS STRUCK by the dominance of the color gray as I walked through the gateway stamped with the blocky letters “Warszawa Centralna.”

I had just happened to arrive in Warsaw on a cloudy day, and the white-washed sky seemed to exaggerate the drear of the city’s low-slung concrete buildings squatting in patches of overgrown weeds. The cars, buses, street stalls, and even stern-looking people all seemed dressed in muted tones, fading towards one color: gray.

I hadn’t planned to come to Warsaw on my trip — I ended up there to apply for a visa — as guidebooks and friends had warned me off Poland’s capital, calling it, well, really ugly.

Indeed, brutally razed by the Nazis and then rebuilt by the Russians in Communist concrete, Warsaw is no looker. But as I explored the gritty streets and learned about Warsaw’s place in Polish history, I started to feel that it deserved a better reputation.

It doesn’t have the glitter and glamour of Krakow’s medieval ramparts and Wawel Castle, but Warsaw, more than most cities I’ve seen, helped me understand the spirit and strength of its people’s nation.

Photo: nicksarebi

1. Warsaw Rising Museum

After securing a room in a hostel built in the former offices of a USSR Sugar Committee, I headed for the Warsaw Rising Museum.

This turned out to be an excellent place to start, as it gives a thorough primer on one of the most formative events in Poland’s recent, tumultuous history. I vaguely remembered the words “Warsaw Uprising” from a high school textbook, but I knew almost nothing, before the museum, about the bitter rebellion Warsawians led against one of the strongest armies ever massed.

For close to two months, militias, mostly civilian, flung up barricades in the streets and smuggled weapons through sewer tunnels, struggling to retake their city block by block. Surrounded by the Nazis, with no hope of winning without Allied help, the Warsawians fought their desperate battle until food was so scarce they fried donuts in perfume and graveyards were so full they buried their dead in the streets.

The Allies never came, and when the Warsawians finally surrendered, the Nazis marched the entire population out of the city and systematically demolished it. As my audioguide put it: “We are talking about the evacuation and destruction of one of the largest cities in Europe, the capital of one of its largest countries.”

The museum documents the struggle with cases of militia armbands and weaponry alongside replicas of underground radio stations and torn letters delivered by the Uprising postal service.

I spent nearly three hours here, but even that wasn’t enough to read the text at all of the museum’s 50+ exhibits. At 5 PLN (US$1.50) with my International Youth Travel Card (10 PLN regular price), it’s an amazing value, though the 10 PLN audioguide was probably a bit excessive.

Photo: Harshil.Shah

2. The tram and Stare Miasto

I grabbed a rattling tram north towards, I hoped, the city’s Old Town, or Stare Miasto.

I couldn’t decode the Polish route listed at the tram stop, and the cars stopped so often it might have been faster to walk, but the lively, clattering tram ride was a good followup to the sober museum.

It was less crowded than any metro ride I took in the city, and filled with everyone from teens toying with iPods to grannies carrying sacks of cabbage, it made for great people-watching.

Having visited the museum, I had an even deeper appreciation for Warsaw’s “Old Town,” which, unfortunately, isn’t very old anymore. Before the war, the neighborhood housed important political and cultural centers dating from the 13th century through the 20th, but like most of Warsaw, it was destroyed by the Nazis after the failed Uprising.

Miraculously, most of the Old Town has been painstakingly rebuilt, and while the paint jobs looked fresh, many of the buildings seemed so architecturally accurate that it was hard to believe I wasn’t seeing originals.

My tour started at the north end of the neighborhood, at the crumbling, red-brick Barbican, a medieval watchtower with old city walls. I headed south through the arch down a road lined with vendors selling beer-swigging folk dolls and gaudy Polish flag t-shirts, then walked out into the Old Town Market Place to admire the bright pink Royal Castle, where every Polish monarch lived from the 16th century until Poland’s third partition in 1795.

I ducked under an awning to get out of the light rain and snapped a few pictures of the domed roof and clock tower, watched by a few tourists drinking expensive coffee at one of the outdoor cafes.

Further south, the tight ribbon of squares and back alleys opened into the Royal Route, a long street lined with both ancient and modern government headquarters.

I did my best to decode which palace was which using the “Warsaw Directory” my hostel had given me, but the rain was falling harder, and there were really a lot of palaces. I stopped in front of the Presidential Palace, taking a moment to read the exhibit memorializing President Lech Kaczyński, who had died tragically in a plane crash one month before my visit.

Finally, I moved on to the gates of Warsaw University to admire the academic buildings and long courtyards and, more importantly, look for dinner.

Photo: moniko moniko

3. Pierogis and mleczny bars

I had vowed to eat local specialties as much as possible on my trip, so I found a pierogi restaurant.

My hostel had recommended a place just south of Stare Miasto called Pierogarnia na Bednarska, tucked around the corner from a small park.

I stared blankly at the Polish listings scrawled on the blackboard for a minute before asking a group of British businessmen for recommendations. They laughed and indicated a stack of English menus on the counter.

I ordered, by pointing, the vegetarian sampler, a plate of tasty dumplings whose fillings included potato and cheese, spiced bulgur and mushroom, and garlicky spinach. It was delicious and, at 18 PLN (US$5.50), a reasonably priced dinner.

My original dinner plan had been to find a mleczny bar. It means “milk bar,” but these cafeteria-style restaurants serve up a wide selection of traditional Polish food. I’d heard their sparse decor, simple food, and long lines made them some of the most authentic holdovers from the Communist era, but the infamous Cockroach Bar I’d searched for near Warsaw University was apparently closed.

I got the mleczny experience the next day, though, while wandering a different neighborhood with Antoine, a French traveler I’d met at my hostel. The Ząbkowski Bar, with plain cloth curtains, plastic chairs, and a badly translated menu, lived up to expectations.

Antoine and I tried to decode the garbled English — what the heck was “chicken thick?” — then wrote our order in Polish on a scrap of paper and passed it to the elderly cashier.

The food was probably the best I’ve ever been served with a steel ladle. And the prices were Communist-era, too: a cucumber salad, plate of pierogies, piece of chicken (“chicken thigh,” as it turned out), and soda cost me 13 PLN (US$4).

Photo: zakwitnij

4. Praga

I needed to stay in Warsaw until the next morning to drop off my visa application, but I lingered for the entire day to explore further. Antoine suggested that we check out an older neighborhood across the river, Praga Północ.

Amidst the Communist low-rises, we saw some of Warsaw’s only surviving prewar buildings. The giant blue onion domes of St. Mary Magdalene church, one of very few Orthodox churches in Poland, were visible even before we’d finished crossing the Wisła.

We wandered along the flooded riverbank until we stumbled into a sprawling outdoor market, which Antoine, skimming his guidebook, decided was the Różyckiego Bazaar.

Asian hawkers called to us from behind heaps of baby clothes, slinky dresses, and faux-designer jeans. I bought a long white skirt for 25 PLN (US$7.50) that I somehow loved, though it was too big and looked like a tablecloth.

After our mleczny bar lunch, we walked past the Koneser Vodka Distillery, hoping for a tour or at least some free samples. Apparently tours can be arranged, but we couldn’t find an obvious guest entrance, so we read about the factory’s history on a sign outside before looping back towards the bridge.

Embracing the ugly

As I lugged my backpack past abandoned buildings and shattered windows on my way to the train station, I wondered, again, what had ever made the Soviets prize bleak concrete as a building material.

Photo: Grzegorz Łobiński

Even with the sun shining brightly, the towering Palace of Culture and Science next to the train station looks like the Adams Family mansion, gloomy and grimy.

But I didn’t like Warsaw because it was beautiful (or not). I liked it because in spite of everything it was still there, once again the heart of a thrice-divided but proudly resurrected Poland.

Community Connection

For another Matador report from Poland’s capital, check out Lauren Lim’s The most kick ass flat in Warsaw.

All photos courtesy of Cory Haugen

MUSICIANS, ARTISTS, AND WRITERS escape nearby Los Angeles and find their creativity here. What can take months to create in a busy city somehow takes a matter of days in Joshua Tree. They write songs and screenplays, shoot music videos, and paint masterpieces not even conceived within the city limits.

I’m putting the theory to the test. This afternoon I arrived as a hosted guest at Hicksville Trailer Palace, a surreal enclave located off the main road in Joshua Tree, California. I pulled out my notebook and pen and began taking notes on Hicksville’s short history (open only since April 26) and its founder, writer and director Morgan Higby Night.

But then I began chatting with Ethan Allen, a music producer who also had a big influence on Hicksville’s creation. In an attempt to sum up this creative space, he said, “It’s kitschy. It’s real.”

And it is real, in that feel-it-in-your-core, embrace-your-inner-geek kind of way. I’ve slipped off my shoes and am letting the faux grass tickle my toes. My notebook, filled with notes on Hicksville, is stashed away.

The Back Story

A native of Los Angeles, Morgan’s passion for film keeps him in the city. But the pressures of being a parent, running a production company, and his daily commute forced a case of writer’s block, so he sought refuge in the Mojave Desert, where he had found solace during his early 20s.

Driving around the dirt roads on the northern edge Joshua Tree National Park about a year ago, Morgan discovered a house for sale with a very large living room and two small bedrooms, so he bought it, made the living room into a top-of-the-line recording studio, and converted the grounds into a place of refuge for his creative needs and those of other artists.

“I had a vision of what it would look like,” Morgan says. “And when I’m here, I feel much more creative than anywhere I’ve found in the world.”

His vision has materialized into Hicksville Trailer Palace over the past year. The focus of the two-acre plot of land is a space covered in faux grass with a collection of trailers, a campfire pit, and picnic table surrounding a small, saltwater pool.

The Fun Part

Each trailer is decorated with a theme. The Integratrailor, for example, retains its metallic exterior and is outfitted in an extraterrestrial style with not only a queen bed and mini-fridge, but also an alien communication center and working spaceship lights.

The Lux, named after Lux Interior of The Cramps, is dark with gothic tints, including skeletal flamingos outside of the trailer. The Fifi, designed by Ryan and Marci Hessling of Fifi Mahony’s Wig and Beauty Store in New Orleans, has purple shag carpet and a lush, velvet bedspread and pillows.

There’s also The Pony, kept in her own covered stall, and The New World, which is named after Roger Corman’s studio and houses an editing suite for filmmakers.

I’m staying in the Pioneer Trailer, which is painted like a log cabin. Inside, deep-set chairs sit around a small round table. The lamp shade looks like it’s made of animal hide, and the sheets and hand towel have cowboys galloping across them.

As I poke through each trailer, I’m impressed by the care and creativity Morgan put into each of them. Hicksville is 50s kitsch meets creative speakeasy with an underground cultural flair. Morgan calls it a trailer park motel and artist retreat. “It was important to me to create a place where creative people could come and feel safe and understood,” he says.

But this isn’t just a place to create, though it certainly would be the ideal location for a writers’ workshop or yoga retreat. It’s also a place to relax. Earlier in the afternoon I tried my hand at the archery range, though I passed on shooting the BB gun. A ping-pong table waits as a reward for finishing this article.

The Big Picture

Hicksville runs on a relatively small budget and with a mindset respectful of the desert environment — solar power is utilized, and low-flush toilets conserve water. Gray water irrigates what little landscaping there is.

I pull on my sweatshirt to hold off the nightly chill of the desert. Morgan checks the power around the property to ensure everything is running properly without wasting electricity. “It’s a work in progress,” he says. “It probably always will be.”

Even so, a place like this, with the attention to detail and imaginative atmosphere, has the potential to be a popular retreat for anyone hoping to escape the city for a few days or looking for that creative muse that somehow hides until exposed to the supposed energy in this area.

Do I believe it’s here? I’m not sure. Perhaps it lies in the absence of distractions of home that allowed me to pound out this article in record time. Or maybe it’s that game of ping pong I can’t wait to play.

The Practicalities

Where to find it: Hicksville Trailer Palace is located about five miles north of Joshua Tree, California. Once you make your reservations, you’ll be given specific instructions on how to get here.

Transportation: Public buses run through Joshua Tree, but you’ll need your own vehicle to reach Hicksville.

Amenities: Solar-heated saltwater pool, BBQ and bistro area, table tennis, free WiFi, fire pit, archery and BB gun range, horseshoes, darts, vending area with ice.

Cost: Each trailer is priced differently, with rates ranging from $75/night for The Pony to $200/night for The New World. Book seven nights and only pay for five.

Reservations: Make them at the Hicksville Trailer Palace website.

Community Connection

Find your muse with these three ingredients for creativity.

Photo: Swami Stream

INDIA IS ONE OF the world’s foremost places for treesearching. For one thing, it’s a biogeographical mashup. Several significant groupings of tree species meet here: Northern Hemisphere standards like pines and oaks, coming into India via the Himalaya; African and Arabian dry desert trees; Southeast Asian rainforest trees; and locally evolved Indian trees.

Additionally, there’s nowhere else in the world with so many temple trees, popular shade trees, historical marker trees, and trees used as business locations. The Hindu and Sikh religions, especially, recognize many famous trees. Trees are used as landmarks and reminders of events, and are often planted by dignitaries to mark special occasions.

Visiting these trees as a tourist can help people appreciate them as a tangible, monetary resource. Of course, these material values must be held in parallel with the more intrinsic values of respect and biological interest. But ecotourism has great potential. Through these trees, we can both learn and teach about the world’s natural treasures.

The trees below were encountered during more than two years of travel throughout India on a vriksh yatri — a tree pilgrimage. I keep hoping that one of them is the mythical Kalpavriksh, the magic tree from the ancient Sanksritic text, which supposedly represents the answer to all of humanity’s problems. For more on my treesearch, check out my website, Tree Octopus.

I encourage you to seek out these ambassadors, and to keep your eyes open for other landmark trees throughout India. I’ve refrained from sharing exact locations, but you should be able to find each of the following with some active inquiry. Happy searching!

Photo: Author

Giant Banyans

The Banyan is a fig tree with the wondrous ability to drop aerial roots from its branches. When these reach the ground, they sprout into solid wooden trunks. Over time, these trees can spread to astonishing sizes, forming an interconnected network of trunks, all branches of the original tree. The world’s largest banyans are found throughout India.

The Doda All Da Mara: Outside of Bangalore on the Mysore road is one of the largest banyans, complete with temple, snack shops, pathways, fencing, and dustbins.

The Great Banyan: The British established the Howrah Botanical Gardens in Calcutta. It is now home to what is considered by most to be the world’s broadest tree.

Kabir Vad: Kabir was a mystic poet sage of India. The Sikh holy book contains extensive passages of his writings. You can find the tree along the lower reaches of the Narmada River in Gujarat.

Northern Ambassadors

Those from Europe or North America will find these oaks and pine trees familiar. The Himalaya offer a cold, wet refuge for them on the otherwise hot and dry subcontinent.

Jageshwar Monarchs: A pair of spectacular giant cedar trees tower over a group of Shiva shrines in a cool valley near Almora in the Indian Himalaya.

Woodside Wolf: On the slopes of Landour, in the British-era holiday hill station Mussoorie, one giant oak tree remains as a relic of once vast natural forests.

Viceregal Oak: In the garden of the Viceregal Lodge of Shimla, a wonderful spreading oak tree stands. This tree would have been witness to many pivotal decisions made by the British rulers of India.

Photo: Author

Jungle Kings

The jungles of India harbor a significant portion of the world’s biodiversity. While most of them have been impacted by human activity, many impressive trees remain.

Kannimara: Famous as the largest teak tree in the world, Kannimara can be found in Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary in the mountains of Kerala.

Connolly’s Teak: Another giant teak, in a plantation of rainforest trees planted in the 1840s by one Mr. Connolly, near Nillambur in the Western Ghats.

Reechgarh Monarch: Exploring the sandstone mountains of Panchmarhi, you’ll find this huge jamun tree in the Reechgarh grotto.

Urban Landmarks

In the chaos of Indian cities, trees provide welcome solace. Some of them are true giants, graciously providing shade and green cover to the people going about their business beneath their branches.

4:30 Ficus: If you think of Delhi’s Connaught Place as a clock dial, you’ll find one remaining big peepal tree at 4:30, at the end of Barakhamba Road.

Hanuman’s Mace: From the main ghat in Varanasi, this banyan tree is visible towering over the human crowds and the Ganga River.

Photo: Author

Park St. Pipal: Just at the start of Calcutta’s Park Street, there’s a small peepal tree acting as sacred shrine.

Weirdo Mangoes

Some strange and unique trees can be found in India, both as freaks of nature and as carefully crafted artwork.

Kaleemullah’s Masterpiece: A mango farmer near Lucknow has grafted an astounding 312 varieties of mango onto a single trunk.

Walking Mango: Just north of Mumbai in Sanjan, there’s a curious mango tree that has adopted a habit of creeping along the ground.

Internationals

Visitors from other countries, these trees bring a bit of an exotic continent to India. Not always recognized as the guests that they are, some of them have become common sights as they’ve naturalized throughout India.

Photo: Author

Elephant’s Baobab: In Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, a giant 500-year-old baobab reminds us of the Muslim king’s botanical tastes.

Ooty Araucaria: If you go to the back slopes of the Botanical Gardens in Ooty, in the Western Ghats, you can find this Southern Hemisphere cold-weather pine grown to monstrous proportions in the tropical climate.

Lodhi River Red Gum: Delhi’s lovely Lodi Gardens is home to a large spreading River Red Gum eucalyptus from the arid inland of Australia.

Ancients

Some trees are venerable elders, links to the past. Several hundred years ago, there were no cars, no phones, no computers, and no trains. Things are changing quickly in India, but these trees haven’t gone anywhere.

Shankaracharya’s Mulberry: India’s oldest recorded planted tree, this mulberry in the Himalaya at Joshimath can be seen as one enters the Valley of Flowers and the Badrinath Shrine.

Nallur Twisted Tamarind: Likely the world’s oldest tamarind tree, the Nallur Twisted tree lives in a sacred grove north of Bangalore.

Delhi’s Khirnis: In the south of the city at Ladho Sarai, Delhi’s oldest trees are found in the pleasant picnic area near the Jain Mandir.

Photo: Devil.Bunny

Sacred Trees

These trees are spiritual treasures, and they receive the respect and care that go along with such status.

Kanchipuram Mango: One mango tree stands at the Ekambaram temple in Tamil Nadu as a replacement for the now-dead tree under which Shiva and Parvati were once wed.

Golden Temple Ber Trees: You can find three very special and revered jujube trees growing in the magnificent Golden Temple of the Sikhs.

Bodhi Tree: This old peepal tree marks the site where Buddha attained enlightenment. It is a sapling taken from a cutting of the original tree. The cutting is alive and well in Sri Lanka, where it is the world’s oldest planted tree. The Bodhi tree at Bodh Gaya, in the Indian state of Bihar, is the world’s most revered and visited tree.

Community Connection

If you take up YD’s challenge to hunt these or other trees in India, Trips would love to hear about it. Americans can also start closer to home with Guide to the Redwood Groves: Where to Find the Tallest Trees on Earth.

Bukhara Zindan in Uzbekistan / Photos by author

[Editor's note: This post first appeared at 501Places titled Go directly to Jail – do not collect £200 (in fact you need to pay to come in).]

JAILS MAY NOT be the most obvious tourist spots. Here are six worth visiting on six different continents (if someone knows of one in Antarctica, please share).

1. Port Arthur (Australia)

The baddest of the bad. Where the convicts sent their convicts and then committed unspeakable horrors on them. It is perhaps one of Britain’s darkest historical chapters. The prison closed in 1877.

Now a large site and considered one of the most haunted places on earth, you can tour this prison by day or night and learn how the prisoners were treated and the conditions in which they were kept. You may even meet one during your stay.

Practicalities: Port Arthur is around a 90 minutes’ drive from Hobart, capital of Tasmania. Activities include tours of the cemetery and the infamous ghost walk (AUS$22).

See www.portarthur.org.au for opening hours and prices.

2. Alcatraz (USA, North America)

Arguably the most famous prison in the world, thanks to popular movies that bear its name. Alcatraz was considered impossible to escape from, and the sight of San Francisco so close must have only added to the frustration of isolation.

Tours of the prison can now be taken by day or night, and you will often be escorted by an ex-con. Al Capone’s cell is one of the popular spots on the tour, although my favorite memory from my visit was our guide’s eyewitness recollection of a fatal stabbing in the kitchens.

Practicalities: Alcatraz tours run from Pier 33 at San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf. They take around 3 hours, and cost from $26 upwards. See www.alcatrazcruises.com for details.

3. Robben Island (South Africa, Africa)

This notorious prison off the coast of Cape Town is now a shrine to Nelson Mandela, and visits to the prison tell the story of how he and the many others kept here lived, ate, and suffered throughout their time on the island.

Again, tours are guided by former inmates, and it would be a rare case to come across one who was not asked if he knew Mandela personally.

Look out for the penguins that have made their home here and can often be seen hiding in the cells.

Practicalities: Tickets can be bought at Cape Town’s V&A gateway and cost R200 for the transportation and tour on the island itself. See www.robben-island.org.za for more information.

4. Ushuaia Prison (Argentina, South America)

This must be the southernmost prison in the world. Established as a penal colony in the early 20th century, Argentina’s baddies were sent down to the Southern Patagonian city of Ushuaia, where they resettled. They spent their time here building roads, constructing buildings and railways, and making a new life for themselves.

Now a museum, this prison actually includes an exhibit on the world’s prison museums. (Yes, you read that right.)

Practicalities: The prison is just a few minutes from the town center and admission is only a few pesos.

5. Bukhara Zindan (Uzbekistan, Asia)

This is the place where the Emir of Bukhara would keep his prisoners before deciding when to throw them from the tower to their deaths. In its center is the Bug Pit, where prisoners would be covered in vermin and insects for long periods.

Once a site of terror, the gaol is now a humble museum and includes the tacky and rather disturbing figures of Stoddart and Connolly, the British officers who were executed by the Emir in 1842.

Practicalities: The gaol is small and will probably only keep you amused for a few minutes. The lady at the entrance expects around $1 for admission.

6. The Tower of London (UK, Europe)

Maybe the most famous building of all, yet the least obvious prison. It is more well known today for housing the Crown Jewels, but in its heyday the Tower was the home of many famous guests, including Walter Raleigh, Guy Fawkes, and the English prince, Edward V.

It is one of London’s most visited attractions, and walking through the Tower it is easy to forget its bloody past.

Practicalities: A highlight of most London tours, it doesn’t come cheap at £17, although a visit to the Tower can easily take two to three hours. Savings can be made by buying combination tickets from online agencies.

See www.hrp.org.uk/Toweroflondon for more information on tickets and prices.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Make sure your visit to a prison is as a tourist: 5 Ways Travelers Can Avoid Being Caught With Drugs.

You may also be interested to learn about 10 Extreme Cases of Travelers Imprisoned Abroad.

Photo: kevin.j

1. Cholila, Chubut

In a quick decision, I jumped off my El Bolsón-bound bus during a 5-minute rest break.

Over the past five days, I’d taken advantage of the hop-on-hop-off bus to explore Parque Nacional Los Alerces and places between Esquel and Bolsón like Lago Verde and Bahía Rosales, but nobody had mentioned Cholila.

With only a few pesos in my pocket, I was happy to discover that most of the town’s highlights are completely free.

Things to do

Although there was neither a thoroughbred horse nor rifle in sight, my active imagination pulled me back to the early 1900s the moment I walked onto an abandoned farm outside Cholila. I felt like an outlaw.

After all, I was standing outside the former home of bank robber Robert Leroy Parker, better known as Butch Cassidy.

Photo: Jeff Bartlett

Like some modern-day travelers, Cassidy longed to quit his nomadic ways and settle down. After being chased out of the U.S. in 1901, he realized his dream — albeit temporarily — in Cholila. He staked claim to 15,000 acres of land and built a four-room log cabin along the banks of the Río Blanco.

By 1905, Cassidy was back to his criminal ways, but his log cabin remains just 8km outside town. The site is on private land, but visitors are welcome to tour the grounds and check out the historic building.

A second attraction is the Fiesta Nacional del Asado, held for three days at the first weekend of February. Originally slated as a provincial festival, it went national in 2010. More than 560 asados, including some 200 goats and 100 sheep, are grilled up during the fiesta.

More than just meat, the festival has Argentinean gauchos competing in events like rodeo, hatchet throwing, and horse racing.

Where to stay

While many of Argentina’s non-national park campgrounds are full of horse dung and garbage, the free Camping Municipal in Cholila is surprisingly clean.

Bathroom facilities are basic and refreshing. The moment my head hit the cold showers in the morning it became obvious I wouldn’t need my daily cup of joe.

Getting there

A number of companies run a multiday hop-on-hop-off bus between Esquel and El Bolsón, which include an optional stop in Cholila. Tickets cost $15USD and remain valid for two weeks.

Stops in Cholila, Lago Verde, Bahía Rosales, and Villa Futalaufquen are recommended.

Photo: Jeff Bartlett

2. Chos Malal, Neuquén

Goats, hundreds of goats, delayed our arrival into Neuquén’s historical capital, Chos Malal. We’d survived both the winds and brutal 40°C heat that transform the steppe into desert, but there was nothing we could do about the goats.

Only one bridge spans the Río Neuquén, and local gauchos regularly herd hundreds of chivos through the police checkpoint, down the highway, and across the bridge. In this remote corner of Patagonia, livestock supersede motorized transport.

Things to do

Located 45km north of the city, Cerro Wayle is solid for outdoor activities.

In the winter, a small ski area gives beginners a test and provides backcountry access to the more experienced. In summer, the zone fills with hikers hoping to summit either Volcán Tromen or Volcán Domuyo, the latter being the highest peak in Patagonia.

Chos Malal, at the confluence of the Río Neuquén and Río Curi Leuvu, is also a big fishing destination. Its high altitude provides the cooler waters needed to maintain a healthy trout population in both rivers, plus the nearby Lagunas de Epu Lauquen.

Just remember to buy a fishing license at a fly shop in town.

Where to stay

Although slightly more expensive than the typical backpacker budget allows for, Hostería Don Costa (~$20USD/double) is a log-built hotel with an attached parrilla restaurant and ice cream shop, along with clean rooms.

Photo: REALISMO MAGICO.

Getting there

There’s daily service from Zapala to Chos Malal ($8USD, 3 hours). Travelers coming from Mendoza can jump a twice-weekly overnight Andesmar service ($25USD, 12 hours).

3. El Nihuil, Mendoza

My arrival in El Nihuil can be described with a single word: confusion.

In the heart of Mendoza, a province known for arid terrain, the High Andes, and endless vineyards, I stood staring at water. The immense lake stretched to the horizon, broken only by the occasional presence of a sail.

Things to do

The strange combination of green waters and volcanic formations is overshadowed by the sheer height of the canyon walls in the Cañón del Atuel. Regular bus tours take passengers down the narrow switchbacks into the canyon and stop at the main viewpoints.

I opted for a more interactive alternative: cycling. The 46km descent from El Nihuil to Valle Grande left my brake fingers aching and my legs fresh. Unfortunately, the punishing return ride would reverse that fortune.

Photo: Jeff Bartlett

Then there are the massive black sand dunes, located only 5km south of town, that attracted the Dakar rally in 2010. Several local companies offer ATV rentals for those looking to trace the now-famous route.

If nothing else, make sure to enjoy the lake. The hydroelectric reservoir formed by the power station dam is the largest lake in Mendoza. Fishing, windsurfing, and water skiing in the warm(ish) waters is easy to arrange.

Where to stay

Club de Pescadores de San Rafael ($5USD/tent, $45USD/8-person cabin) is the local fishing club and offers an extensive weekend retreat, with campsites, cabins, swimming pool, and restaurant.

Getting there

Regular buses run between Mendoza and San Rafael ($5USD, 3 hours). From the San Rafael bus station, you’ll need to hop a local bus to El Nihuil ($3USD, 1 hour).

Community Connection

Matador senior editor David Miller and Matador Life editor Leigh Shulman both call western Argentina home. Check out their personal blogs for more insights into the region.

Photo: andybrannan

MONET AT THE MET. Picasso at MoMA. Dinosaur bones at the American Museum of Natural History. Every guidebook seems to feature a checklist of museums that all tourists must race through in order to have truly “done” New York City.

While these museums are world-class institutions housing some of humanity’s most important cultural treasures, they’re not the only game in town.

Photo: stevecadman

1. The Tenement Museum

New York is a city of immigrants, and for centuries new arrivals have turned first to the narrow streets of the Lower East Side. This museum, housed in a 150-year-old apartment building on Orchard Street, tells some of their stories.

Volunteers lead guided tours through apartments restored to show the everyday lives of New Yorkers in the 19th and 20th centuries. In many cases, the original inhabitants have collaborated on the restorations and provided stories about life within these walls, creating an experience that transcends a mere living history exhibit.

My favorite contribution from a former tenant was an audio installation from an Italian-American woman who had grown up in the apartment I was touring. As we sat around the kitchen table, she spoke of her memories of the room, of her mother cooking dinner while she did homework at that very table.

The best way to see the Tenement Museum is to drop by and sign up for a tour that interests you, then explore the neighborhood until it’s time for your tour to begin.

The Lower East Side, with plenty of restaurants, bars, and shopping, is good for a wander. There are also quite a few interesting cultural sites nearby, such as the Eldridge Street Synagogue.

Tours are offered between 10:30AM and 5PM, seven days a week. Admission, $20.

Photo: t_a_i_s

2. Studio Museum of Harlem

Located in the center of Harlem on 125th Street, the Studio Museum is focused on African-American art, often with close ties to the neighborhood. The small gallery space is tightly curated, with a strong mix of pieces in a variety of media.

The main gallery space arranges work conceptually, grouping together diverse works on topics like memory, history, and personal identity. I loved thinking of the work not in a historical context or as an example of an installation or a sculpture, but as a moment or a portrait.

Because the Studio Museum screens documentaries on topics related to Black history and culture and hosts frequent lectures and events, it’s easy to spend several hours here. Several good soul food restaurants are nearby, and the famous Apollo Theater is visible in the distance to the west on 125th Street.

The Studio Museum is open from noon until 6PM, Wednesdays through Sundays. Admission is a suggested donation of $7.

3. The City Reliquary

This tiny storefront museum is filled from floor to ceiling with relics from previous incarnations of New York City. Less a comprehensive history experience than a glimpse at things that have fallen through the cracks of time, contents include an intact Chinatown newsstand and a display on Fanny Brice, who got her start in a nearby cabaret.

Photo: E. Bartholomew

As someone who lives a short bike ride away, it was fascinating to see all these tiny pieces of very immediate local history. The evolution of the subway token. A song written about the Williamsburg Bridge. These things are right under my nose, but I rarely think about them.

There are also revolving exhibits on topics of local interest; when I visited the subject was hand-painted signs along Metropolitan Avenue in Williamsburg.

On the same block as the Knitting Factory and Spuyten Duyvil, the best way to visit the City Reliquary would be to combine it with nearby entertainment options.

Open weekend days and Thursday nights, by donation.

4. Museum of the Moving Image

When most people think of American cinema, they think Hollywood. But the movies started in NYC, and the Museum of the Moving Image is an homage to the early history of film as well as the city’s starring role in American movies and TV.

There are exhibits on film culture both in front of and behind the camera, a penny arcade stocked with working kinetoscopes and early video games (this is one of the few places in New York where you can still play Pac-Man, Space Invaders, and Donkey Kong), a small art deco cinema screening classics of the silent era, screening rooms for film festivals and retrospectives, and a gallery of video installations by the likes of Nam June Paik and Yoko Ono.

Photo: Marcin Wichary

This is one of my favorite places to see a movie in New York; their film programming is some of the most adventurous in the city, but it never gets pretentious.

The museum is located on the grounds of Kaufman-Astoria Studios in Astoria, Queens — one of the most ethnically diverse places in the world, with some of the best restaurants in the city. Skip the chain restaurants around the studio complex in favor of the family-owned Greek diners and Mexican taquerias that line every major street. How many chances do you get to try Bosnian food, after all?

Opening hours are 10AM to 3PM, Tuesdays through Fridays, and admission is a $7 suggested donation.

5. 5 Pointz

If you take the 7 train into Queens from Grand Central, as soon as the train goes above-ground you’ll see one of my favorite landmarks in New York — a huge industrial building painted bright yellow and covered with graffiti.

Called 5 Pointz by local artists, this isn’t a den of criminal activity. Instead, it’s a self-styled “global graffiti Mecca,” where street artists from around the world arrange permits to add their work to the factory walls. Inside, the factory itself has been converted into artists’ studios and gallery spaces that are open to the public most weekends.

Photo: gsz

It’s not an official museum per se — more like an informal community art space where anyone can come to experience the raw creative process. Guided tours can be arranged via email.

5 Pointz is across the street from its more established cousin, PS1, and not far from the above-mentioned Museum of the Moving Image. You could easily combine all three into a day in Queens.

You could also get back on the 7 for the long haul out to Flushing, the go-to neighborhood for authentic Chinese and Korean food. My favorite Korean barbecue joint these days is Ham Ji Bak. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but there are pictures on the menu and everyone is very friendly.

Community Connection

For more offbeat museums, we’ve got 5 Little-Known Museums to Check Out in London’s West End and Liberoachi, Voodoos, and Condiments: The World’s 10 Wackiest Museums.

Photo: Ormando SLR

1. Camarones, Patagonia

Camarones is a rare beast — a serene beach destination in Argentina. Not many of them exist.

In fact, apart from the over-crowded Mar del Plata and Miramar, I can’t think of a better place to relax by the ocean (although do bear in mind it can get quite chilly, especially during winter).

There’s a certain ease of life here, perfect for anyone set on lulling about for a couple of days on pristine beaches or wanting to see Patagonian life by the ocean. It doesn’t change too much in the village either, where the townsfolk are as friendly and laid back as you’ll find.

Getting there

The only real problem is arriving. It’s 70km on a dirt road from Trelew via the El Ñandú bus — departures: Monday, Wednesday, Friday at 4PM.

Photo: nestor galina

Attractions

Nearby is the Cabo Dos Bahías nature reserve, home to 25,000 penguin pairs. Best time to go is spring (Sept-Nov) when the penguins return to their nest, with mid-November best to see the little chicks as they hatch and waddle around.

There’s no public transport to the reserve, but if you have a car it’s well worth the visit. Due to the inaccessibility, the colony is visited a lot less than it should be, so at the very least it’ll give you bragging rights.

Where to stay

As with much of Patagonia, when you’re going off the beaten track the main problem is finding somewhere decent to stay — one of the reasons so many choose to camp.

The main hotel/guesthouse in Camarones is the Complejo Indalo Inn. They have a big complex with tidy rooms, plenty of amenities (including Internet — rare for the region!), and views of the ocean. Particularly convenient if you want to make reservations and are unsure of your Spanish.

2. Fiambalá, Catamarca

I have no doubt 99.9% of people will not have heard of Fiambalá. The majority of Argentineans I’ve met seem blissfully unaware of its existence too. A small village in the state of Catamarca, Fiambalá lies some 320km from the provincial capital.

Photo: Sr. Amortuorio

Consisting of a small dusty town square and three or four main streets, there’s something of a desert feel about this town. Everywhere you look is the blurry sight of the Andes (the constant heat has a hazy effect).

It’s a hot place and carries many of the habits of small Argentine villages, such as passing out after drinking three or four beers for lunch — compulsory siestas that mean a severe lull in village activity around the 3PM mark and generally a very drowsy feel to the place (not helped by the altitude).

Attractions

If this doesn’t sound like your place then maybe I’m not selling it well enough. For me, the beauty of Fiambalá lies in living everyday life like a local (and is why I stayed there for a month), but there are also plenty of things to do.

10km away are the thermal baths, where I enjoyed the solitude of the mountains along with the mineral cleanse of a hot soak.

Due to the dry climate, nearby vineyards produce a very strong, but very nice, assortment of red wines, which can be bought directly for cheap.

Photo: MGPanoramico

Plus, every January there’s now the Dakar rally that passes through and sends this village into a frenzy.

Getting there and staying

Buses run every day from Catamarca — which in turn is linked to Salta, Tucuman, Jujuy, and other northwestern hubs — and take 8 hours.

For accommodation, it’s possible to camp at the thermal baths or stay in one of their cabins.

There’s a guesthouse at the Don Diego vineyard, a couple more dotted around the village, and the French owner of Oh La La, the restaurant on the main square, is happy to help backpackers passing through.

3. Choele Choel, Rio Negro

I have to admit I knew nothing about Choele Choel before arriving there.

I’d made a sudden decision to head south to Patagonia and so caught a bus to Bahia Blanca. The only hostel in Bahia was full, and the city looked no different than countless other places I’d been to, so I decided to try my luck hitchhiking.

Photo: Lucas_B

After a couple of hours a truck stopped and offered me a ride to Choele Choel. I remembered it as being slightly more south so jumped in.

When I later saw on the map that I’d in fact gone about 300km due west I wasn’t too worried — these mistakes can help with discovery, as I was soon to find in Choele.

This area of Argentina (central and just north of Patagonia) is full of fruit. All around are flat, green fields covered with apple, plum, and pear trees, with elaborate drainage systems creating little canals that dunk in and out of the fields and under the roads.

Attractions

It’s this scenery that makes Choele so alluring, with the Rios Salado and Negro Norte playing an important role in daily life. People seek them out to relax, bringing along their kids, setting up the barbecue, and walking the luscious gardens that freckle the banks.

The adjoining village, Luis Beltrán, is one of the original Welsh communities of Argentina, along with Gaiman and Trevelin farther south.

Unlike those destinations, though, which have been taken over by tourism and tea rooms, Luis Beltrán maintains the feel of an Argentine town, except with Welsh names for everything. There’s the Williams patisserie, featuring some great cakes by Hughes and Hughes, and Juan Bevan’s, the local butcher.

Getting there and staying

Choele Choel can be reached by low-cost buses arriving from Bahia Blanca, Trelew, and Neuquén. There are no hostels but plenty of places to camp and guesthouse/hotel owners can be bartered with easily.

Community Connection

Find out What People are Listening to in…Argentina.

Photo: jamingray

The different constellations

The moon, planets, and most constellations — like those of the zodiac — are visible all over the world. However, constellations that appear closer to the North and South Poles are only visible to the corresponding hemisphere. Those constellations — called circumpolar constellations — stay above the horizon all night orbiting the pole.

That’s why northerners see the Big Dipper all night, all year while the southerners never see it. On the other hand, only southerners can view the Southern Cross, the iconic constellation represented on the Australian and New Zealand flags.

Another southern circumpolar constellation is Vela. Vela harbors a neutron star — the Vela Pulsar — which rotates 11 times per second and whose intense magnetic field emits audible pulsating radio signals.

Southern Cross / Photo: Sarah G.

More and brighter constellations

The southern hemisphere has 11 circumpolar constellations, including six first-order magnitude stars, whereas the northern hemisphere only has five circumpolar constellations, none of which has very bright stars.

Why? Because the South Pole faces the galactic center of the Milky Way, providing a view of billions of stars. The brightest constellation is the Southern Cross, and the constellation with the greatest number of visible stars is Centaurus.

Prettier clusters

Within the Southern Cross, the Jewel Box Cluster showcases colorful stars that look like precious stones twinkling in the night. The colors come from a red supergiant amongst very bright blue supergiants and other brilliantly colored stars, some of which have luminosities 80,000 times that of the sun.

Next to the Jewel Box is Omega Centauri, the second brightest globular cluster in either hemisphere and the most massive concentration of stars orbiting the center of the Milky Way. This swarm of more than two million stars looks awesome in a telescope.

Photo: Mr. T in DC

Darker nebulae

Looking at the white stripe of the Milky Way across the sky is cool but looking at dark holes within the Milky Way is even cooler. Because the Milky Way is brighter in the southern hemisphere, the dark nebulae within it are more pronounced.

Situated between the two brightest stars of the Southern Cross is the most prominent nebula in the Milky Way, the Coalsack Nebula. If you connect the nebulae within the Milky Way, you can visualize the Emu in the Sky, which is the best known Australian Aboriginal constellation.

A brighter nebula, the Eta Carinae Nebula, is home to the most massive star in the galaxy, Eta Carinae, which is one of the most exciting stars because it is unstable and thought to be the next star to die in a supernova.

Upside-down

Because the hemispheres are upside-down from each other, the night sky is seen from a different vantage point. So familiar constellations such as Orion appear inverted in the southern hemisphere

The same goes for the moon. Even better, in the southern hemisphere the moon illuminates from the left to the right side in the waxing phase and darkens from left to right in the waning phase. So a crescent moon that looks to a northerner to be on its way to becoming a new moon is actually on its way to being full.

Photo: thebadastronomer

Large and small Magellanic clouds

These clouds are arguably the most amazing objects in the night sky anywhere in the world. Many northern hemispherians mistake them for ordinary clouds because they are big, white, and puffy, until they realize that they are in the same spot night after night.

They aren’t clouds at all; they are galaxies. And, coincidentally, they are right next to each other in the sky. No need for a telescope — the galaxies are so close that they appear much bigger than anything else visible from Earth. The larger cloud is a gigantic view of the fourth largest galaxy in the universe.

In addition to permanent constellations, the southern hemisphere hosts rare astronomical events, such as total solar eclipses. Total solar eclipses are only visible from a tiny percentage of the Earth’s surface and therefore require travel to very specific places. The next one, in November 2012, is only viewable from northwest Australia.

Watching the daytime sky go dark and the birds go silent has a bizarre otherworldly feel that, for astronomy fans like me, warrants traveling half way around the world.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Here are some words from some of the people who’ve been out there: The Ultimate Spiritual Awakening: How Going to the Moon Changed the Astronauts.

Would you like to see it for yourself? The fountain is located in the Canal City Hakata shopping mall — a “city within the city” — in Fukuoka, Japan.

A complex of fountains also puts on an hourly show where the water is choreographed to music.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re headed to Japan, you’ll want to Meet an Expert: Turner Wright. Read his article How to Order Sushi Like a Ninja and learn to eat like a local.

San Marino / Photo: fdecomite

LAST DECEMBER, Carlo reported on Kashi Samaddar, who got himself a Guinness World Record by traveling to all the world’s countries in just under seven years. 194 countries, to be exact.

But actually, there’s no single figure for how many countries there are in the world — it depends on who you ask. Some big names on the international scene are defined as having “limited recognition,” while others you may never have heard of are accepted without question.

And then there are the “micronations,” which are basically only recognized by the people that “founded” them. Check these out:

The Tiny

These little guys might be small, but (according to both Gadling and Neatorama) they’re officially independent nations. Can you find all five on a map? I couldn’t.

Photo: roblisameehan

1. Vatican City – Just 0.17 square miles in size, this sovereign pocket in the middle of Rome is the world’s smallest and is governed by an absolute ruler: the Pope.

2. Monaco – It’s the size of NYC’s Central Park, but it’s also the most densely populated nation in the world. A rectangle of land cut from the French Riviera, Monaco used to be a great location for an offshore bank account. They’ve changed that now — you have to pay taxes on your income, unless your one of the 35,000 native-born residents.

3. Nauru – This American Life did a segment on this 8sq-mi Pacific Island, which is the only reason I’ve heard of it. You should check out the link, but in short: massive reserves of phosphates (bird shit) spurred a boom in the last century, but when the shit ran out, the government had no contingency. Now the island is turning to money laundering, telemarketing, and refugee boarding to feed its people.

Tuvalu / Photo: mrlins

4. Tuvalu – More sad stories out of the Pacific. Tuvalu, just 9 square miles large, is losing what land it has to rising sea levels. Plans are underway to evacuate. In fact, there are probably Tuvaluans who’ve passed through Nauru’s refugee camps on their way to Australia.

5. San Marino – Another island stuck in the middle of Italy, San Marino advertises its title of world’s oldest republic. It’s famous for its three mountain towers, and half the nation’s revenue comes from tourism.

The Micro

Those above are legit. Those below…not. Apparently it takes more than declaring independence in your backyard to gain international recognition.

A Huffington Post article describes 13 micronations. Here are five highlights:

Sealand / Photo: octal

1. Sealand – As mentioned in Ross Lee Tabak’s 8 More Strange Places on Planet Earth, the Principality of Sealand is an abandoned WWII gun platform in the English Channel that was taken over by a pirate radio DJ in 1967.

The “nation” is still transmitting (these days as an Internet hosting site), but you won’t find its representatives at the UN.

2. Republic of Kugelmugel – This one’s nothing more than a spherical artist’s residence in Vienna, surrounded by barbed wire. However, when Edwin Lipburger, the republic’s founder, tried to start issuing his own postage stamps, he was sentenced to prison, a definite blow to Kugelmugel’s claims of sovereignty.

3. Ladonia – When authorities tried to remove two natural art sculptures from the coast of southern Sweden, the artist occupied the land around them and declared independence. Ladonia’s 14,000 “citizens” pay their taxes in the currency of creativity, and their national anthem is the sound a pebble makes when it hits water.

Ladonia / Photo: Erik D

4. Republic of Molossia – Molossia consists of two properties, that of President Kevin Baugh near Dayton, Nevada, and that of his friend in California. There’s postal and telegraph service (within the nation), and the government holds treaties with numerous other micronations around the world.

5. Other World Kingdom – This is actually a commercial facility that for some reason declared itself independent. Services offered revolve around female-dominant BDSM for male clients. Unfortunately, the Other World Kingdom has recently joined the ranks of actual countries that have gone bankrupt.

Been to any of these tinies or micros? Tell us about your visit in the comments.

Community Connection

More bizarre trends at Matador:

Armchair Travel: Embrace the Bizarre
Three Bizarre Food and Sex Combinations for Your Next Dinner Party
5 Bizarre Local Traditions and Competitions Worldwide
4 Bizarre Prohibited Items Confiscated by US Customs Officials

A WHILE BACK we talked a little about Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Destinations for 2010. We weren’t all that impressed with the list, given that most seemed to already be heavily touristed.

This month Rough Guides published their own list called The big five emerging destinations. I gotta admit, their arguments are much more compelling. Here they are:

1. Panama – With Costa Rica’s over-development, Panama looks fit to step in as the next big tourist destination in Central America. Rough Guides cites a developed infrastructure, year-round sunshine, and a “lush” coastline as some of the reasons to put it on your map.

2. Mongolia – A 1,600-mile cross-country highway called the Millennium Road is due for completion this year. Believe me, this is good news.

Hours and days of bumping around in an old Russian van is enough to keep many people away, but this new road just might lure more travelers in to explore this big, diverse country.

3. New Orleans – After the devastation of Hurricane Katrina in 2005, Rough Guides says the Big Easy is “on the up.” And a Superbowl win by the Saints certainly doesn’t hurt.

4. Colombia – Although they mention to steer clear of parts of the Amazon and the south, Rough Guides has strong arguments to visit this once torn country: “wild beaches, rainforest and mountains…vast coffee plantations, archaeological sites and colonial cities.”

5. Iceland – Perhaps too expensive in the past for the budget backpacker crowd, Iceland’s economy is hurting for some love, and this is reflected in the prices.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Tom Coote also gave readers his list of the 5 Next Big Travel Destinations.

Not convinced about travel to Iceland to help them with their economy? Read my side of the argument in Why You Should Travel During the Global Recession.

Photo: loufi

1. No more travel advisory

The U.S. State Department issues travel advisories that many, including myself, feel are too conservative (the issue is discussed by JoAnna Haugen in depth in Should You Listen To Travel Warnings About Honduras?).

So if they’re willing to lift the advisory on Syria, that goes far to assuaging any safety concerns I may have had.

The NYT article linked above states that Syria is “crucial to peace in the region.” Time to get out the passport, meet the people, and promote world peace.

Photo: seier+seier+seier

2. The Dead Cities

In northern Syria, not too far north of the little pocket where the last communities of Aramaic speakers live, lie Syria’s mysterious Dead Cities, “780 abandoned settlements dating back to between the fifth and eighth centuries.”

There are also remnants of an Iron Age temple from around 1200 BC.

Several of the Dead Cities have been dug by archaeologists and are laid out for visitors with useful signs and information; others lie within modern villages: strange stone towers sprouting from gardens, fragments of carved lintels lying under the pistachio trees.

There’s so much history in Syria — Assyrian, Babylonian, Persian, Greek, the Silk Road, the Crusades. But this region — probably the entire country — is seriously under-touristed. Seeing these lesser-known ruins would certainly be on my itinerary.

3. Aleppo’s rise

The Dead Cities are an easy drive south of Aleppo, one of the oldest cities in the world and a great place to see the synthesis of all the cultures mentioned above. Plus the souks, hammams, and other attractions familiar to Middle East travelers.

Photo: seier+seier+seier

As The New York Times reports, the city’s tourism industry is growing. They quote Karam Artin, a 20-year-old interior design student:

In a few years, this city will be swarming with tourists, and, hopefully, even more American visitors.

Now is the time to go.

4. Reading Matador Network content

As a Matador editor, it’s my pleasure to read (or, on a bad day, at the very least skim) every article published across the Network. I could plan an entire trip based on this content.

Matador Abroad has my back with Useful Arabic Phrases For Travelers. I’d of course check in with dwb, our destination expert for Syria.

And Matador’s other regional experts could help me out if I decided to scope 6 Under-the-Radar Destinations In The Middle East.

Where are you dying to travel to RIGHT NOW, and which online content inspired you to go? Share your stoke in the comments.

Community Connection

If you’ve traveled to Syria and blogged the experience, I’d love to read your work. Leave a link in the comments. Or better yet, post a Matador blog about it.

Photo: Yvonne Alcos

In Google Tourism: Is Nothing Sacred Anymore?, I round up some tools on the web that let you explore the world without actually having to venture into it.

Similarly, Paris 26 Gigapixels brings you right to Paris, in high definition.

Come again?

From the About the project page:

Paris 26 Gigapixels is the name of the biggest assembled panoramic image of the world. It shows Paris in a very high definition. A gigapixel is 1 billion pixels! The image is a stitching of more than 2000 individual photos.

Apparently, if you wanted, you could print this baby out on a 6500 sq. ft. sheet of paper and still have great quality. I’m no mathematician, but I think that just might cover my bedroom wall.

What do I do?

When you visit the Paris 26 Gigapixels site, let it load. It can take a few minutes. You’ll see a panorama of Paris and some transparent control windows. You can move about, zoom in and out, and by clicking on the “i’s” you can get information about a particular landmark.

To locate a landmark quickly, they’ve conveniently placed shortcuts to the 20 most popular monuments. Click one to zoom in on it.

There is an option to view it in HD, but sorry Mac users, this doesn’t work for you. Being a Mac user myself, I can’t tell you how this looks.

How?

If you’re interested in the technical aspects of this project, they break it down for you into steps: the shooting, the stitching, and the rendering.

You can also view this post to get into the mind of the photographer, Arnaud Frich.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For some sweet, sweet Parisian graffiti, check out Paris’ Surprising Street Art.

Photo: artberri

I’VE RIDDEN the Trans-Siberian rails. I’ve wolfed down the instant noodles, drank the crap Baltika beer, and suffered in platzkartny for 65 straight hours. So I have some mixed emotions about one of Google’s recent additions, a virtual tour along the ties between Moscow and Vladivostok.

Google provides video footage, as if looking out the window of a train car, separated into stages of the 9226 km long journey.

You can choose your starting point, such as Yekaterinburg, where it will faithfully tell you that you are 1751 km from Moscow and 7474 km from Vladivostok. The video starts with your train stopped at the platform, then slowly builds speed until the features start to blur.

While you’re watching this footage, you can select audio to listen to: the rumbles of the train over the tracks, Russian radio, even a reading of Leo Tolstoy’s “War and Peace” (in Russian of course, for that truly authentic experience). A Google map appears below the video so you know exactly where you are, both in Satellite and Terrain modes.

That’s not all folks

As our friends at Wend magazine report, you can go skiing and snowboarding in your bathrobe, right from the comfort of your own couch (or, like me, from a painfully hard seat at Starbucks).

An article at The Guardian also points out that Google has teamed up with the National Trust in the UK to bring you offroad views of British landscapes, stony castles, and country cottages. This in addition to their pairing up with UNESCO to showcase street views of World Heritage sites.

One step further

An entrepreneurial tandem of brothers created the website Google Sightseeing, whose tagline is “Why bother seeing the world for real?”. Categorized into sights (flocking, a Canadian farm maze) and localities (Spain, Tennessee), each post has a satellite view and describes what you’re looking at.

Photo: www.theedinburghblog.co.uk

From what I can tell, most of the content is submitted by readers, which leads me to believe that there are a lot of people spending hours scouring Google maps, rather than going outside.

The world from your computer

Sure, it’s nice to bring the world to those who can’t, or who just won’t, explore it a little. But part of me feels ripped off, like when I hike up a mountain to find a car park at the top, or a crowd of people exiting a gondola. Or when I hiked along the Great Ocean Walk with a 14 kg pack for four days and found out later that there are people who provide bag and food drops at hikers’ destinations.

Yes, writers have been bringing the world to armchair travelers for decades and centuries even. But at least there’s some work involved in that. You have to take the time and effort to read, to work your brain and your imagination.

But when Google lets you experience the sounds and motions of the Trans-Siberian, without having to deal with surly provodnistas or an annoying Russian who insists on turning up the communal radio full blast, that’s where I have to put my foot down.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you wanna kick it old school, Sarah Menkedick absolutely nailed it in A Virtual Ride on a Chinese Train.

Virtual tools can also be used to help plan in-the-flesh travels. For more on that idea, read How to Use Google Maps for Trip Planning.

Photo: Ellen Passage

Albania

Not long ago Albania was strictly off limits for independent travel; the only way to visit was through a costly organized tour. Sailors from nearby Corfu were terrified of being forced to land along the Albanian coast, in case they were arrested as foreign spies and carted off to some kind of gulag.

It was considered to be the last great bastion of European hard-line communism.

That’s all over now. Westerners no longer need a visa, and hostels and budget accommodation are starting to sprout up all over the place.

Albania is still great value and offers everything from elegant Ottoman mansions in snow capped mountains, to ancient Greek ruins and near-deserted Mediterranean beaches. The last couple of years have seen dramatic improvements in the capital city of Tirana, as the once notoriously potholed streets have been repaired.

The country still retains its flavour and remains several steps removed from most of Eastern Europe. McDonalds and KFC have yet to invade, although you can find a “MacDonalds” — golden arches and all — and a kebab version of the colonel.

Photo: albatros11

Algeria

During the ten-year civil war — in which around 100,000 Algerians were killed — Algeria was strictly off limits for tourism. Even until very recently you could only visit if you went on an expensive tour escorted by an official guide.

It might be an exaggeration to say everything has now changed and all of Algeria is completely safe, but independent travel is now possible.

You need to have a booking with a hotel and provide plenty of support evidence to get a tourist visa, but it can be done. The easiest and cheapest option is probably to get a cheap flight into Tunisia and then cross over from there — the border with Morocco is closed.

Algeria is a vast country with everything from ancient Roman ruins and undeveloped Mediterranean beaches, to colonial architecture and the emptiness of the Saharan desert. Sooner or later, the people in power are going to realise that tourism could earn them a lot of money and greatly contribute to solving their chronic unemployment problems.

For more details on backpacking independently in Algeria, read my article To Camels from Cows — Algeria Overland.

Photo: Pudpuduk

Macedonia

You can find medieval walled cities, great lakes, and lots of architecturally distinct churches and monasteries in Macedeonia.

The people are friendly and even popular tourist destinations such as Lake Ohrid are incredibly cheap for Europe (ten euros a night for a pleasant double room with cable TV).

It’s easy enough to travel overland into Macedonia from Kosovo or Albania, but the lack of cheap international flights means it can only practically be visited as part of a longer trip through other parts of Eastern Europe.

Oman

Oman is becoming increasingly popular as a stopover between Europe and Asia.

Photo: Panorama

Even if you’re laying over in Dubai, it’s easy to get a bus down to Oman’s capital, Muscat — Western nationals can get an inexpensive visa at the Omani border.

If you’re flying to somewhere else with Oman airlines, you could also pay a small surcharge to stop in Muscat for a few days. Muscat may not be as well set up for tourism as Dubai, but I think it’s cheaper, friendlier, and more interesting.

As well as the usual desert and rocky mountain scenery, Oman has castles, mosques, and heaving, atmospheric bazaars. There’s not yet much in the way of budget accommodation, but sooner or later somebody will decide to open up a backpackers hostel.

Ukraine

Unlike in Russia or Belarus, Western nationals no longer need a visa to visit Ukraine. You can get a cheap www.easyjet.com“>EasyJet flight into Krakow, Poland, and then get the train to the nearby Ukranian border. From there it’s a short bus ride to Ukraine’s third largest — and arguably most popular — city, Lviv. You could also get EasyJet flights into Budapest and then hop the overnight train.

Photo: MariyaZ

Ukraine still seems very “Soviet.” The cities have state-sponsored circuses and puppet shows in crumbling but permanent buildings. Outside of the cities, many people grow their own turnips in their front gardens. Headscarves are the norm for the aging ladies and the apparently bad dye jobs for the middle aged.

The young people are different, though — more like the teens in Poland or Hungary. It’s the differences, however, that make Ukraine worth visiting. As with Macedonia, there’s still a lack of cheap, direct flights, and language can be a problem, but Ukraine has something different to offer the curious traveler.

Given that it’s so close to the more popular parts of Eastern Europe and that decent hostels can easily be booked online, its popularity is bound to rise.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For another far-off-the-beaten-track idea, don’t miss How to Travel to Socotra, Yemen.

Photo: Nieve44/La Luz

1. Sanrio Puroland — Tokyo, Japan

Like other character parks, Sanrio Puroland in Tokyo features shows with live actors in giant costumes singing and dancing to simple (some say annoying) songs. However, the kitchy aspects of the shows don’t keep them from being fun.

The Believe show stars not only Kitty and friends, but a group of talented acrobats in lavish costumes. A show about Kitty’s adventure’s in Oz is a collaboration between Sanrio and the staff of Japan’s famous Takarazuka Revue.

Besides the shows, there is a boat ride, a dance contest, and numerous “factories” where refreshments such as candy, ice cream, and juice are sold.

2. Sanrio Harmonyland — Oita city, on the island of Kyushu

If you wondered where all the rides were at Puroland, here’s your answer. This amusement park in Oita combines the cuteness of Sanrio characters with rides like carousels, ferris wheels, and roller coasters.

Like Puroland, there are live musical shows, parades, and night shows, but they are less lavish and varied in content.

Photo: josh.liba

There is also the “Kitty Castle,” where guests can have their photo taken with Kitty, who is dressed in a seasonal outfit.

3. Hello Kitty Sweets — Taipei, Taiwan

Taiwan is chock-full of Sanrio-themed attractions, including this licensed sweet shop in Taipei. You can’t miss it — the storefront features a giant portrait of Hello Kitty, and even the waitresses wear cat ears and pink outfits with aprons.

Most reviewers recommend reserving a table ahead of time, as the shop is usually busy and the cutest tables (with Hello Kitty-shaped booths) are given to visitors with reservations. Food here is somewhat overpriced (about $10 for dessert and $15-$20 for an entree), but desserts are beautifully presented.

From shortcake to tarts to tiramisu, everything has Hello Kitty’s head incorporated into it in some way. Even if you’re not a fan, you can take joy in eating her face off.

4. Grand Hi-Lai Hotel — Chienchin District, Taiwan

When you’re done eating Kitty, you can sleep with her. The Grand Hi-Lai Hotel has two different Hello Kitty accommodations available: a suite and a simpler room.

The luxurious (read expensive) suite features a Hello Kitty-shaped headboard and a Kitty tea set. The more basic room has two single beds and a desk furnished with Sanrio stationery. The bathroom’s mirrors are embossed with Hello Kitty’s face, making it the creepiest place to take a shower since the Bates Motel.

5. Hello Kitty Castle — Uni Resort Mawudu, Hsinchu, Taiwan

If Hello Kitty had a baby with Barbie’s dream house, it would look like the Hello Kitty Castle. The exterior of the bubblegum-pink two-story house is decorated with images of Kitty’s face, bows, and roses, and its windows are adorned with window boxes filled with red flowers.

Photo: hazel spray

It’s much the same inside: all the rooms are pink, with embellishments like plush magenta bows on the couches, carvings of Hello Kitty fitted onto cupboards, and a rug in the shape of a rose bloom. Despite many blogs reporting that the castle is located in Shanghai, it’s actually at the Uni Resort Mawudu in Hsinchu, Taiwan.

6. Hello Kitty Maternity Hospital — Yuanlin, Taiwan

At this point, one could guess that a Hello Kitty maternity hospital would use Hello Kitty blankets, require nurses to wear Hello Kitty scrubs, and give out Hello Kitty-adorned birth certificate covers. But why combine Sanrio’s most popular character with Cesarean sections to begin with?

In an interview with Rueters, the founder of the hospital said he wanted to make the experience of childbirth less frightening. Hopefully it works.

Sadly gone, but fondly remembered — Hello Kitty S&M Room in Osaka, Japan

The Hotel Adonis in Osaka was shut down in 2009, but evidence of the Hello Kitty S&M room lives on. Perhaps its closing was destiny, though, as the execution of the idea just couldn’t compare to what could have been.

Instead of a room filled with leather-clad, whip-holding Kitty plushies, Sanrio-character condoms and Charmmy Kitty blindfolds, the room simply had images of Kitty on the wall and Hello Kitty sheets on the bed. The leather restraints on the bed were not even adorned with a Hello Kitty bow — what a wasted opportunity. The Maternity Hospital was scarier.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more offbeat tour ideas, check out these articles:

Igloos, Castles, Sewage Pipes, and Survival Pods: The World’s 10 Weirdest Hotels

Liberoachi, Voodoos, and Condiments: The World’s 10 Wackiest Museums

Photo: DavidDennisPhotos.com

LIKE MOST FIRST TIMES mine was clumsy, quick, and made me feel uncomfortable, not to mention self-conscious. I didn’t really know what I was doing. My second time wasn’t much of an improvement but at least I was starting to get the rhythm and I kept going a little longer.

Claire, my girlfriend, said I was doing well and that everyone has to start somewhere but I could see that she wasn’t happy waiting for me to improve while she was already more than competent. So the third time would be on her terms: in public where I had no choice but to succeed.

I was worried that people would laugh or stare, but she assured me this was Paris and it was perfectly normal. But I could see before I’d even finished putting on my rollerblades that everyone else was better than me.

Photo: Bitterjug

Sunday blades

Every Sunday in Paris hundreds of skaters and ‘bladers gather on the Boulevard Bourbon, close to the Bastille, to enjoy the city on wheels, without traffic.

Everyone is welcome and there is no charge — you may join and leave as you wish. (Pari Roller does another group blade on Friday nights.)

My previous explorations on blades had lasted less than an hour — each time abruptly ended by blood and bruised limbs — and I was wondering how far I would make it through the three-hour course.

The route changes every week, taking in different areas of the city. The one I joined would be heading from the Bastille, across the Seine towards the Gare d’Austerlitz, and down the Rive Gauche before crossing the river once more on the way to Bois de Vincennes. After a short break, we would return on a similar route.

An ambulance and several staff — indicated by bright yellow t-shirts — always follow at the rear to keep the group together; should you fall behind you are kindly asked to leave. The pace is gentle, but I knew I’d have to work hard to avoid expulsion.

Having spent only twenty euros on a pair of new skates, they had about as much freewheeling potential as the box they came in.

Harder than it looks

As the group set off, the streets became crowded with the combined movement of thousands of legs, creating a hum of spinning bearings. I became more than a little worried as I edged out into the group and began my clumsy skating.

People weaved in and out of the crowds, others simply rushed past with apparent ease.

Photo: Very Quiet

Everyone was faster than me: five-year-old children, parents skating with pushchairs, groups of teenagers tied together by shared iPod headphones, OAPs, even complete beginners holding on desperately to their partners to remain balanced quickly overtook.

I took in water, said a confident “désolè” as I fell into the person next to me, and wondered how long before I was fatally wounded. Claire followed close by, ignoring the humiliation of being the second slowest person in the group.

As we crossed the Seine, I took a moment to appreciate the view up the river, with Isle de Cite and Notre Dame cathedral visible in the distance. The brief lapse in concentration, however, made my legs rapidly split in opposite directions and my arms flailed wildly, hitting several passing skaters.

The rest of the journey was spent not enjoying the sights of Paris as I had hoped, but with my head down in concentration on the repetitive push left, push right, push left, push right.

Opposite the Museum of Natural History, with its carefully manicured Jardin de Plantes (that I dared not look at), we made our way across the famous Parisian cobbled streets. The absence of a smooth road slowed my already glacial skating pace to a practical stop, but despite my hindrance to those behind me, the atmosphere was one of support and mutual enjoyment.

“You need to put your feet like this. It is better,” said one man as he skated passed me, demonstrating the optimal position. I didn’t know the French for “You don’t think I’ve been trying to do that?” so I thanked him as he skated off, zigzagging backwards between those around him as if to demonstrate just how much finesse I lacked.

Photo: span

Beginning of the end

Holding back the traffic in Paris is no easy feat, but a brave band of volunteers and a few policemen on mopeds or blades heroically manage the task.

The building traffic jams join in the festive mood of the event by continually sounding their horns until we have passed, which can be up to fifteen or twenty minutes in parts.

It was somewhere in Bois de Vincennes — a grand park just outside the city — that I finally met my end; after half a mile or so of enjoying the landscaped grounds and views over the boating lake, the rough road had taken its toll.

It almost happened in slow motion as the last skaters passed: the yellow wall of event volunteers, the police, the ambulance, and then the bicycles that followed. I had failed to keep up! I could only watch as the peloton slowly disappeared into the park.

Community Connection

For another fresh, human-powered idea for exploring the urban landscape, check out Sightjogging: City Walking Tours on Speed.

Photo: author

1. Sip Chablis at La Belle Hortense

Le Marais, the ramshackle, historical neighborhood on the right bank of the Seine, is rapidly being gentrified. But it still maintains some of its bohemian vibe.

La Belle Hortense, a ‘literary bar’ named after a nineteenth-century romantic novel, is a quiet place to chill in the afternoon, sitting on squishy sofas in the back with a café and browsing the wide range of books. You can also look over the latest art or photography exhibition on the walls.

In the evenings, peruse the wine list and take a seat at the zinc bar or one of the rickety little tables; often there will be a book signing, poetry reading, or lecture going on (albeit usually in French).

Where: 31 Rue Vieille du Temple, Metro Hotel de Ville or Saint-Paul.
When: 5 PM – 2 AM.
What: Check cafeine.com for events and exhibitions.

2. Drift around the Marais and Quartier Latin

Just up the road from La Belle Hortense is Bookbinders Design, where stationery fetishists will appreciate the expensive and beautiful Swiss notebooks. Surely the pearls of wisdom you’ll be scribbling deserve nothing less than this thick, creamy paper and subtly-coloured canvas bindings.

Photo: osbornb

Round the corner, on the Place des Vosges, is the writer Victor Hugo’s house, now transformed into a museum of his life and work.

Across the river on the traditionally intellectual Left Bank, Zola, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Voltaire, and Malraux all sleep eternally at the Pantheon.

East of the Boulevard St. Michel’s tourist traps are some mellow bars where you can journal moodily in a corner or discuss philosophy and politics.

Where: 53 Rue Vieille du Temple.

3. Crash on a couch at Shakespeare & Co

The first incarnation of Shakespeare & Co was opened in 1919 by Sylvia Beach, one of the bohemian set of foreign authors and artists who frequented Paris.

Visitors included Hemingway, Ezra Pound, and Gertrude Stein, and Beach helped publish the first version of James Joyce’s Ulysses, as well as stocking ‘obscene’ titles such as Lady Chatterley’s Lover which were banned in Britain and the USA.

WWII put an end to Beach’s shop, but in 1951 American George Whitman started up his own store which became ‘Shakespeare & Co’ on Beach’s death. At the time of writing Whitman, aged 96, still lives in the medieval building that houses the shop, and the business is run by his daughter — also called Sylvia.

Photo: author

She’s started a successful festival which takes place in June of alternate years, and there are weekly readings and book launches in the shop.

George himself was awarded the Officier des Arts et Lettres medal by the French Minister of Culture in 2006 — despite once having described his shop as “a socialist utopia masquerading as a bookstore.”

Shakespeare & Co has long welcomed itinerant writers and travellers, known as tumbleweeds, who exchange their work for a place to sleep — sometimes just a sofa amongst the books. Over the years, visitors have included Allen Ginsburg, William Burroughs, and Henry Miller, and the shop’s iconic status has earned it cameo roles in movies including Before Sunset, Julie & Julia, and even Highlander.

Where: 37 rue de la Bûcherie on the Left Bank of the Seine.

4. Browse for budget books

The area around Rue de la Huchette, heading away from the river past Shakespeare & Co, is home to many secondhand bookshops. If you have no baggage limit to worry about, check out the bouquinistes, the green boxes along the bank of the Seine, from which books and prints — some tacky, others pornographic, many strange and unusual — are sold.

5. Look wistful by your hero’s grave

Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise is chock-full of the famous dead.

Photo: ricardo.martins

Probably most celebrated for the tanked Doors fans who come to worship at Jim Morrison’s tomb, the cemetery contains the more bookish graves of philosopher Peter Abelard (of the legendary doomed love affair with Heloise), Nobel literature laureate Miguel Angel Asturias, great names of French letters such as Colette, Proust, Moliere, de Musset, and La Fontaine, the ‘inseparable’ Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, and the exiled Oscar Wilde.

Abelard, La Fontaine, and Moliere were all moved there after their deaths, in an early nineteenth-century effort to make the ‘out of town’ location fashionable. Much less well known is the Cimetiere des Batignolles (Metro Porte de Clichy) where the poet Paul Verlaine and surrealist Andre Breton are buried.

Other literary figures such as de Beauvoir, Beckett, Baudelaire, Maupassant, and Sartre all reside in the Cimetiere de Montparnasse in the south of the city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re planning a trip to Paris, don’t miss our Paris Focus Page, where you can find all the resources you need, including How to Move to Paris With No Money and What NOT to Do in Paris.

Photo: alexindigo

TWO DOLLARS is the main unit of currency in Chile. The luka (1,000 pesos) is our smallest bill, and as of January, 2010, a luka is worth just about two bucks. It’s what Chileans consider cheap-but-fair for an event, and pricing one at 1,000 pesos or less is a great way to draw folks in.

A successful new program called Yoga a Luka hosts yoga classes all over the city (and in other regions) for 1,000 pesos, and there’s also the summertime arts program of Santiago a Mil (Santiago for 1,000 pesos).

Anyway, one luka is about what it costs to get out of the oven of the Santiago summer and up into the city’s cool backyard — the Andean foothills. With some basic camping gear, a pair of decent walking shoes, and the highest SPF you can find, 1,000 pesos buys a mountain getaway.

Photo: author

Saltos de Apoquindo: Getting There

There’s Parque Mahuida and its access to Cerro San Ramón, the peaks of Provincia or Pochoco, or even Manquehuito and its big brother, the ill-advised-to-climb-alone Manquehue (assaults are an ongoing problem there). But in the dry heat of summer, my friends and I went with the waterfall — Saltos de Apoquindo.

You start out, BIP (like a fast pass) card in hand, at your closest metro and take the red line (línea 1) to the brand-new terminal station, Los Dominicos. This is also home to a craft market whose artisans set up in an old cloister, selling carvings, leather, and Pomaire terra cotta.

Bypass the market and take your free transfer to the 421 bus (or the C02 or C02c), which after another ten to fifteen minutes will drop you at San Carlos de Apoquindo.

From there, sign in with the guards (you need to leave your passport or ID number with them, and they’ll ask you for a phone number as well), and tell them you’re going to the sendero (trail), should they ask.

It’s then about a ten-minute paved walk uphill to the trail head, labeled Reserva Ecológica Contrafuertes Cordillerano, where there’s a basic map of the area (might want to snap a picture here in case you get lost, as the trail is marked but still possible to lose).

Photo: author

The Hike

It’s not just the watefall that attracted me to this trail. Having grown up hiking in New England, I’m not a “straight up the mountain” kind of trekker, as many of the hikes in the central region of Chile tend to demand.

This one meanders, following the folds of the mountain, and has significant downhill portions even on the way “up.” There’s shade, but no water until you get to the falls, which are potable, though you might still want to treat the water before drinking if you’re antsy (we didn’t).

Depending on your pace, expect 3-5 hours to reach the falls. The trail is in pretty good shape, has few areas of loose rocks, and can absolutely be hiked in a pair of running shoes, if that’s what you’ve got.

Warning: the litre tree causes a poison-ivy-like reaction in some unfortunate hikers, so you’ll want to keep clear. Or at least greet the tree (a hearty “Hola Señor Litre” will suffice) as tradition dictates.

Towards the end you’ll need to rockhop across the water’s downward flow, and this will get you close to the bottom of the falls. It looks its best in the morning, with the sun climbing up the notch in the mountain where it pours through.

Photo: author

Staying or Leaving

While camping isn’t technically permitted, there are established fire circles and a few signs that other humans have spent the night. Packing out all your trash and proper disposal of waste are a must, as there are no facilities.

You can follow the trail back the way you came, or ask a passing huaso (Chile’s version of the Argentine gaucho) for directions. We met one up top, who lip-pointed us down towards another path, across the flat site people use as a campsite.

This trail had views falling to the right, along the Precordillera, of numerous other waterfalls, and a little stand of trees where we cooked and ate lunch before continuing out.

Several hours later (again, 3-5 is a good range), we came out past terraced plantings and finally to a different trail head, this time at an area called Aguas de San Ramón.

Here you can slip through the gate, walk five long blocks downhill to the Plaza La Reina, catch the D08 bus to the metro at Bilbao on the blue line, and do the whole thing in reverse. Sneers at your dusty backpack and air of self-satisfaction should be expected.

That’s my best $2 travel tip. What’s yours?

Community Connection

For another Santiago sidetrip, check out our guide to Cajón del Maipo.

Other hiking tips: Where to Hike After You’ve Finished the Appalachian Trail and the travel video Notes on Hiking up Mount Rainier.

Photo: cogdogblog

A SPECIAL SESSION of the Arizona State Legislature cut an additional $8.6 million from the budget of the Arizona State Parks Board in December. Now, the department says it has no choice but to close 13 more state parks, leaving only 9 open.

Our gate fee funds, conservation funds, and donations were so severely swept that now we have an imminent cash flow crisis and a downward spiral in the very revenues that we desperately need to keep the system operating.

• Executive Director Renée Bahl, January 12 press release

The department plans to close the 13 state parks in three phases:

February 22 Closures

Homolovi Ruins State Park – “Homolovi” means “Place of the Little Hills” in Hopi. The park in Winslow preserves pottery, stone, and other remnants of this migration stopoff area, used by the Hopi until the late 1300s.

Lyman Lake State Park – Located in St. Johns, Lyman Lake protects 1,200 acres along the shore of a reservoir fed by snowmelt from Escudilla Mountain and Mount Baldy, two of the highest peaks in Arizona.

Riordan Mansion State Historic Park – The same man who created the El Tovar Hotel on the rim of the Grand Canyon designed the residential home in this Flagstaff historic park.

Jerome State Historic Park / Photo: designatednaphour

March 29 Closures

Fort Verde State Historic Park – This Campe Verde park contains a fort that dates from the Indian Wars, with several original buildings still standing.

Roper Lake State Park – Roper, located in the small southeastern city of Safford, encompasses its namesake lake as well as natural hot springs.

Tombstone Courthouse State Historic Park – A silver mining town in the Old West, Tombstone once served as the seat of Cochise County. Now, the historic park preserves the old courthouse and history of this frontier town.

Tubac Presidio State Historic Park – The Tubac park is made up of the remnants of a Spanish frontier settlement from the 1700s.

Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park – During its 33 years of operation, the prison housed 3,069 prisoners charged with crimes ranging from polygamy to murder. It closed in 1909.

June 3 Closures

Alamo Lake State Park – Located in Wenden, this park protects a lake formed by the Army Corps of Engineers’ 1968 Alamo Dam Project. The dam provides flood control for the Bill Williams River — the lake once rose 11 vertical feet in one night.

Lost Dutchman State Park – In Apache Junction near Phoenix, Lost Dutchman takes its name from a gold mine that in the 1800s was rumored to exist in the nearby Superstition Mountains.

Picacho Peak / Photo: kevindooley

Picacho Peak State Park – Used as a landmark for thousands of years, the “peak” in this park formed from ancient lava and rises 1,500 feet.

Red Rock State Park – The State Parks Board acquired this park’s 286 acres in 1986 but didn’t open it to the public until 1991. Since Oak Creek cuts through the park, its educational programs focus on riparian habitats — the interplay between stream and land.

Tonto Natural Bridge State Park – This park in Payson protects what may be the world’s largest natural travertine bridge. In 1877, a prospector hid from Apaches for several days in a cave inside the bridge, then claimed squatter’s rights to the valley that surrounds it.

More info

Four park units already shut down will remain that way: Jerome State Historic Park, McFarland State Historic Park, Oracle State Park, and San Rafael State Natural Area.

On the January 25 edition of PBS’s Horizon, Bahl told host Ted Simons she remains hopeful that the board can work out an arrangement with the legislature or local governments to keep some of the parks open. If not, they’ll remain closed until funds become available again.

In the long run, many months or maybe a year out, we would hope to bring in another park or two onto the system,” Bahl said. “You can cut our budget, but you can’t cut our spirit.

Community Connection

California’s having similar problems. Read about them in Budget Cuts Burn California’s State Parks.

Photo: BaylorBear78

IN A FEW short days, more than two million people will pack into Vancouver for the 2010 Olympics. My thoughts for them: if you don’t get outside the city, you’re not seeing the real British Columbia. And that would be sad.

Here are six places worth a visit if you’re going to be here anyway:

Victoria

You do know that Vancouver’s not the provincial capital, right? That’d be Victoria, about 4 hours away by ferry on the southern tip of Vancouver Island.

The restaurants, parks, and shopping are a good enough reason to visit, and on top of that you’ve got attractions like Butchart Gardens, the Victoria Bug Zoo, Craigdarroch Castle, and Canada’s oldest Chinatown.

Even just getting here is pleasant, as the ferry passes through the southern Gulf Islands and some of the most beautiful coastline in Canada.

Nanaimo

Nanaimo is a bit farther up the island, directly across the strait from Vancouver. With three artificial reefs just outside the harbour, it’s home to what Jacques Cousteau praised as

the best temperate water diving in the world and second only to the Red Sea.

Central Vancouver Island has plenty of above-water outdoors potential as well, including hiking, camping, and paddling, and Nanaimo makes a great base.

There’s also Coombs and the roof-living goats of its Country Market, a sweet beach at Qualicum, and the totems in Duncan. Oh and don’t forget to pick up a world-famous Nanaimo Bar or two while you’re here.

Photo: footloosiety

Ucluelet

Still on Vancouver Island, don’t overlook Ucluelet, on the rugged and remote western coast. This is the jumping off point for the long sandy beaches and temperate rainforests of Pacific Rim National Park, as well as kayaking expeditions to the Broken Group Islands.

You can also catch the ferry across the sound to Bamfield and explore The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail (this is a fierce week-long trek, so don’t attempt it unless you’re prepared and down with skipping out on some of those Olympic events).

Whale watching tours are the big thing here in March, taking in one of the greatest whale migrations in the world. Every year, 17,000 Grey Whales pass by here on their way from Baja to their summer home in the Arctic. Some tour operators guarantee sightings year round and back it up with full refund policies.

Haida Gwaii

What are presently called the Queen Charlotte Islands, north of Vancouver Is., are set to be renamed Haida Gwaii, meaning “Islands of the People,” later this year. The archipelago is ~150 islands strong, about a third of which comprise its largest park, Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site.

Gwaii Haanas is one of Canada’s cultural treasures, with over 500 historical archaeological sites and the UNESCO World Heritage Site SGang Gwaay Llnagaay.

Photo: Lilian’s Pics

The world’s best collection of mortuary and memorial totem poles is in the remains of this Haida village, all them at least 100 years old. The area is only accessible by boat or plane.

Haida Gwaii is also a big kayaking and camping destination, and is known for its wildlife. Due to its isolation from the mainland, its flora and fauna are distinct, and they include the biggest (and smallest) subspecies of black bear.

Penticton

Back on the mainland, the Okanagan Valley is in the opposite direction, 4+ hours east of Vancouver.

The region is home to nearly three dozen wineries, most of which invite visitors for tasting and tours. A self-guided winery expedition is simple enough — just follow the burgundy and white “Wine Route” road signs.

The valley is also known for its orchards, so make sure to stop at a local fruit stand for fresh peaches, pears, and cherries.

Penticton sits on the southern shores of Lake Okanagan, one BC’s largest lakes, and is very popular when the summer sun is shining. It even has its own lake monster, Ogopogo.

Revelstoke

Newcomer Revelstoke Mountain is quickly gaining a reputation as a world-class ski destination and powder stash.

Photo: AB.freeskier

It was also named one of Trips’ Top 10 North American Resorts for Your 2009-2010 Ski Trip.

The mountain has heli and cat-skiing and the biggest vertical drop on the continent. For non-skiers, there’s whitewater rafting, ice climbing, and hot springs.

Rather spend the day inside? Try the Revelstoke Nickelodeon Museum. Its collection chronicles the development of automatic music machines and is Canada’s only mechanical museum.

Community Connection

For more Olympic info, Matador explores The Dark Side of the 2010 Olympics and suggests How to Find Free Accommodation for the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games.

Photo above: heiwa4126, All others: Author

GOOGLE HAS PUT images of the entire world online, for free. Think about how amazing that is.

Last year, in “Virtual Traveling for the Rooted Hobo,” Marc Latham talked about using this technology to explore the far corners of the world from the comfort of your office chair. The Street View feature even allows you to virtually tour UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

But what happens when you’re already in the far corners? Can Google Maps be used as an actual travel tool?

Getting off the beaten path can be difficult when you’re carrying the same guidebook as everyone else, and though wandering aimlessly has an undeniable allure, the world is so huge that worthwhile adventures sometimes need objectives.

Serious missions require preparation, and thanks to Google Maps a few hours on the Internet can be more productive than weeks worth of wingin’ it.

I’ve used Google Maps to mount expeditions to an abandoned mental asylum, forgotten tropical beaches, and, most recently, find bomb craters in Laos for a photo essay at Matador Change.

That last piece inspired a few questions about the logistics of capturing the shots, so I’ll be using Google Maps screenshots from around the area they were taken to show how to effectively utilize satellite photos, Panoramio, and other features to plan your adventure.

If you combine these tactics with a rented car, bicycle, or motorbike, the potential for discovery during your next trip will be wide open.

Satellite View

Google is constantly adding higher resolution images to their satellite photo database, so by now almost every city in the world is covered. Really, try it — pick a town in Kyrgyzstan you’ve never heard of, zoom in, and you can probably make out individual cars.

Even with high-res satellite photos it’s hard to tell exactly what’s on the ground, but large features like craters are easy to pick out. Satellite view is also useful for planning how to get there — the map overlays aren’t always accurate and don’t give any idea of road conditions, so it’s helpful to be able to spot the route yourself.

Photos

Picasa and Panoramio allow users to assign coordinates to their uploaded photos and overlay them onto Google Maps. This gives a level of detail you can’t get from satellite photos, but the real adventure utility is spotting worthwhile destinations in the middle of large expanses of nothing.

In the example above you can see there are a lot of photos tagged on the Plain of Jars, but there’s a separate cluster on the bottom right as well. That’s a town that’s home to a ruined temple, bombed hospital, and other interesting relics, but it’s rarely mentioned in any tourist literature and seldom visited.

Wikimapia

Though Google does integrate with Wikipedia, Wikimapia takes the idea a step further and allows anyone to outline, tag, and describe any feature in the world.

This is invaluable in large cities, where something awesome could be hiding just around the block.

Street View

Street view is only available for a few countries, but it’s probably the most useful thing Google’s ever come up with.

The most practical aspect is that you’re able to see the front of buildings from street level, which saves a lot of number-hunting when you’re trying to find that perfect little coffeeshop you heard about with nothing but an address.

If you’re traveling by bicycle or motorcycle, it’s also a great tool for finding the best route to take.

There are plenty of other non-travel-specific resources on the Web that can come in handy, like Flickr and Wikipedia. With a bit of fooling around, you can find the sites that work best for you and the methods of use that contribute most positively to your adventure style.

Community Connection

For more on how modern technology is changing the ways we travel, check out iPad Revealed: One More Thing From Apple, Fund my Story: New Economic Models for Writers, and New Wave of Social Media: Tweeting and Blogging from the Amazon.

Photo: lylevincent

1. Grab a Drink at a Rooftop Bar Overlooking the Forbidden City

A full exploration of the Imperial Palace and Forbidden City, a complex sprawled over nearly eight million square feet, takes the better part of a day. When you’re done, order a cocktail and rest your legs at Yin, the rooftop bar at the Emperor Hotel.

You’ll find the building near the east gate, and Yin is reached via an ascending series of terraces from the boutique hotel. Views take in a panorama of the royal grounds, and the menu is stocked with innovative concoctions — many made with the evil Chinese liquor baijiu, so it’s drinker beware.

Photo: Author

2. Ride a Tandem Bike around Houhai Lake

Houhai Lake is one of the hippest spots in Beijing. It’s also known as the “back lake” and is surrounded by restaurants, bars, coffee houses, and boutiques set along cobblestone lanes.

To save on rickshaw fees, hit up one of the bicycle rental stands, which rent by the hour and day, and pedal yourself around the lake district. You can even pick up a three-person tandem. I’m happy to say it’s a whole lot of fun to wobble down the narrow streets with the locals cheering you on.

A word of warning: our bike seemed to date from Chairman Mao’s day. We quickly discovered the tires were half-flat and the brakes were shot, resulting in Fred Flinstone braking moves by three pairs of feet.

3. Cook Dumplings in a Local’s Kitchen

Tour operator East Tours runs a gig where you can take dumpling making lessons at the home of a local. She’ll show you how to put together the filling and roll out the dough — harder than it sounds, believe me.

Stuffing the dumplings requires even more practice; don’t lose heart if your first half dozen look pathetically deformed.

Photo: Author

The beauty of this tour is not only in getting a look at traditional Chinese cuisine but also at the homes and lives of everyday citizens in a real neighborhood — probably not an opportunity you’d have otherwise.

And of course, you get to eat what you cook.

4. Go Karaoke

Karaoke is a staple of the social fabric in China, just like in other East Asian nations. Don’t miss out. Venues can be found in most hotels and seemingly along every major street. They’re sometimes called KTV, so watch for that on signs.

Protocol: Check in and pay for a specified amount of time at the front desk, after which you’ll be escorted to a private room with audio-visual equipment, microphones, a TV, and couches. You can order drinks and sometimes food.

When my three travel companions and I went, the five-pound song library featured plenty of familiar tunes, but the same video of a bunch of Chinese teens running around in the snow played during every song.

5. Crunch into a Scorpion or Seahorse on a Stick

The Donghuamen Night Market, near the Forbidden City, is the place for street food.

You can find more sedate offerings such as dim sum, soup, and fresh veggies, but don’t bypass the bamboo skewers of silkworms, scorpions, seahorse, snake, and starfish. I also discovered a caramelized lotus root I couldn’t get enough of.

You don’t have to eat to enjoy yourself — half the fun is in gawking at the food and talking with vendors and other patrons. Our group of Americans and Canadians made friends with some Greek tourists; as I walked behind the others, a vendor screamed “sheep penis!” right in my ear, laughing at my double-take as he dangled the organ in front of me.

Photo: Tormod Sandtorv

6. Walk an Unrestored Section of the Great Wall

The Great Wall is long. Busloads of tourists get dropped off at the famous sections near Beijing every morning, but at other places unmarked by restoration or tourism, there are surprisingly few people. The experience of discovering the “wild wall” is powerful.

The Simatai-Jinshanling section allows you to do this. At the Xiangshui Lake scenic area there are another two, as well as a restored section. To get there, instead of walking ahead to the main gate, turn right or left; both directions lead farther into the village and towards original stretches of wall.

For more, consider a horseback tour along the wild wall, or a stay at one of the two hotels that have private access. Red Capital Ranch, Beijing’s first eco-tourism resort, owns ten restored villas set on 50 acres, while Commune by the Great Wall is another recommended resort, with villas surrounding a path that leads to part of the wall available only to guests.

Community Connection

Make sure to check out the Matador classic, I was on the rebound with a Chinese clown.

There’s also Losing My Travel Virginity: Beijing and How Love And Money Conquered Communism At The Beijing Olympics.

Crowd waiting for the astronomical clock to chime in Prague’s Old Town Square
Photo: Carolyn Coles

Old Town, Prague

Prague has become one of the most popular destinations in Europe, and tourists cover the cobblestones of the medieval Old Town. Those small winding streets weren’t built for such numbers, and even heading out before dawn doesn’t guarantee you’ll be alone.

What you can do is escape to one of the parks on the opposite bank of the Vltava River. From there, you get the skyline panorama and can move at a slower pace.

Pyramids of Giza, Cairo

Almost 5,000 people a day truck out to the Pyramids at Giza, and while there are various ways to try and get away from the crowds (long desert walks and camel, horse, and helicopter rides), if you want a closer look you’ll have to join the masses.

Another option is to head ~5km farther south to Saqqara and spend some time checking out the Step Pyramid of Djoser which, though still famous, doesn’t see nearly as many boots as Giza.

Photo: Pip R. Lagenta

For more tips on travel in the region, review the expert advice in What NOT to Do in Egypt.

The Tower of London, London

Built almost 1,000 years ago, this tower was originally designed to keep people in. Now it’d be great if it worked the other way.

Should you want to see the Crown Jewels — the Tower’s biggest attraction — you’ll be herded in by uniformed Beefeaters and herded out again before you can even take a quick snap of the world’s largest diamond.

Long queues form no matter what time of day or night you go, but for a different experience in the Tower, reserve tickets (at least two months in advance) for the Ceremony of the Keys.

Forbidden City, Beijing

Closed to outsiders for centuries, the ancient palace of the Emperor of China contains close to 1,000 buildings, is spread over an area of 720,000 sqm, and is now one of the most popular places on the planet — even Starbucks has set up camp in one of the ancient halls.

Get to the city at least half an hour before opening so you can be among the first in line, and hit the big-name sights first, before more of the 9 million annual visitors start to pour in.

Photo: stevehicks

Taj Mahal,
Agra

Crowds are a fact of life in population-dense India, so competition for body space at a site like the Taj Mahal will always be intense.

Try crossing to the opposite side of the Yamuna River for the big-picture view (complete with mud, sewage, and trash underfoot) and a chance to be, almost, alone.

Times Square, New York City

A simple street intersection, Times Square might be one of the more surprising tourist attractions in NYC. To experience the neon overload, you’ll have to negotiate super-crowded sidewalks while trying not to step into the path of a city bus.

The early hours of the morning are a good time to find some relative quiet in Times Square, but in a city made for people watching, is that really what you’re after?

Photo: mararie

St. Mark’s Square, Venice

With water for streets, there isn’t a lot of real estate for tourist feet anywhere in Venice, but St. Mark’s Square gets particularly overrun.

Whether you’re visiting the Bell Tower, the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Church, or just sipping espresso in an open-air cafe, expect the company of thousands — even when it’s flooded.

There are ways around this. Check out Fresh Ideas: Venice by Kayak and Sightseeing in Venice for (Almost) Free for more.

Cancun, Mexico

Blue skies, white-sand beaches, and crystal water…boxed in by some of the world’s most tasteless tourist infrastructure. To make it worse, every inch of what little beauty Cancun has seems to be covered by either a pasty, overweight tourist or a puddle of regurgitated spring break tequila.

Cancun is a lost cause. There are better options all along the Yucatan, such as Playa del Carmen, Isla Holbox, and Celestun, though it probably won’t be long before they join the casualty list.

Photo: malias

Notre Dame, Paris

The interior of this famous cathedral is usually not the place for silence, contemplation, or tranquility.

There are just too many damn tourists.

Visitors have one saving grace, however — during a service (times and dates posted outside the entrance), a more authentic and peaceful experience is possible.

Should you even explore big-name sites in the City of Lights? Find out in What NOT to Do in Paris. Or, just tour Notre Dame via Google Street View.

What’s the most frustrating tourist trap you’ve ever encountered? Share your experience in the comments.

Community Connection

Read a traveler’s condemnation of an Argentine tourist trap and learn How to Get the Most Out of a Bus Tour (If You Hate Bus Tours).

Notre Dame, Street Viewed / Photo: Author

I’M IN THE MARKET for a house. Problem is, ever since I made the decision I’ve been thousands of miles from my target market. Enter Google Street View. All I have to do is plug in the address from a realtor listing and it’s like I’m standing in front of the property. What a sweet tool.

I’ve applied Street View to traveling as well. Scoping city streets, hostel addresses, and attractions before a trip helps me get an idea of where I want to go and where I don’t, and imparts a sense of familiarity to my surroundings once I actually make it there.

Now, news is out that Google has partnered with UNESCO, the arm of the UN responsible for designating and protecting World Heritage Sites, to produce Street View experiences of some of the most famous sites around the world.

Nineteen ground-level, 360-degree World Heritage views have already been released, featuring primarily European landmarks, and more are in the works. This video explains:

Expect an uptick in “virtual tourism” as a result of the partnership, but I bet UNESCO sees an increase in in-the-flesh visitors to these sites as well.

Community Connection

How long do you think it’ll take Google to make it to these Overlooked World Heritage Sites?

Photo above: gregw66; All others: Author

MORAG IS A LOCH MONSTER with a terrible publicist. Although slightly famous in Scotland, tales of Morag have not spilled into coloring books or Hollywood films. A bit of a sensation in the late sixties, the beast’s home of Loch Morar has shied away from publicizing sightings and remains quite disinterested in a tourist trade that involves humped aquatic creatures.

Author’s hoax photo. Not convincing. Yes, that’s basil.

The case for a monster in Morar, though, is compelling and arguably stronger than discussion of what might be living in neighboring Loch Ness.

For starters, Loch Morar is the deepest body of fresh water in Europe, reaching depths of over 1,000 feet.

It is largely uninhabited, flanked by a road that only covers one quarter of its perimeter — this allows for hardly any traffic around the lake, which would explain the lack of tourist sightings.

More importantly, it is the setting for sightings as sensational as any that have come out of Nessietown.

Tales of a monster have permeated the Morar area for centuries, first spun as tales during “silly season,” the terrible winters when Scottish highlanders hole up, tell tales and get a little juiced up.

According to early stories, “Mhorag” was the spirit of the loch, only appearing in the form of a mermaid when a member of the Gilles clan was about to kick. Later, tales spun of a waterhorse (or “kelpie”) that would lure riders onto its back, then drown them and snack on their remains.

If you’re laughing, you probably weren’t born in the 1700s, when it was completely reasonable to treat most of these tales as fact.

The Golden Age

Monster hunting in the Harry Potter Age has got to be difficult. Nearly eighty years after the first reported sighting in Loch Ness, the creature has started to lose its sex appeal, out-imagined by Pixar and the like.

The romance of a loch monster just might be dead and buried, even if the animal is still alive and swimming.

Still, I wanted to find out if what I’d been hearing was true; if another loch was a more likely candidate for some kind of beastie than the infamous one near Inverness. I went straight to Scotland’s loch monster expert, Adrienne Shine, in hopes of learning a bit more before I set off to Morar myself.

Nobody would know better than Shine, who began his own Morar investigation in 1974. He was sparked by the loch’s most famous account, which made papers around the world. Says Shine

It was the encounter in 1969 that aroused my interest. I thought if Loch Ness wasn’t the only place where there were these traditions, perhaps there’s more chance of it being real.

He hired a rowboat and drifted at night with a powerful light fixed to a camera, in hopes of repeating the encounter. After this turned up nothing but a false sighting in the form of a rock (“It taught me not to believe the evidence of my own eyes.”), Shine decided to head below water. By 1975 he was manning missions into the depths of a loch in a homemade submersible, during what he calls “the underwater phase of my work.”

Shine is difficult to pin when asked the ultimate question about what’s out there, mostly because he has no definitive evidence either way. He says,”I have no one theory because many animals and physical effects have contributed to sightings.” When asked about his favorite explanation, he offers

I am accused of the Shine Theory. The occasional migration of sturgeon into fresh water might have started the water horses tradition.

While many argue that such a fish couldn’t live in these lochs, it is quite arguable that no fish has ever looked like a horse more than a sturgeon.

Shine is honest about why he first started hunting the now-famous beast, seeing it first as “a soft option for fame and glory.”

Thirty-five years later, it has become much more than this to him. He’s manned countless expeditions in Loch Ness, most famously with 1987’s Operation Deepscan, during which dozens of sonar-armed boats scanned and mapped the whole of Loch Ness. It proved inconclusive.

If a man like Shine couldn’t find a monster, how would I? There was one thing that Shine said that kept me going.

Wherever these traditions seem to come to the surface now, there’s always a perception that they’re copying Loch Ness.

It was his way of saying that Morar had been written off as a copycat.

Could Morar just be a place that had been overlooked? Digging a little deeper into the history of the area, it seemed entirely possible.

Morar and the Monster

I’d been reading The Search For Morag, a history of all known accounts of the monster. Hardly a bestseller, I’d had to order this discontinued title from a collector’s shop and paid dearly for it. Written by Elizabeth Montgomery Campbell in 1972, the hardback documents everything known about Morar, recalling over 100 years of sightings and probing that ultimate question.

The book doesn’t disappoint, recounting sightings that were, in the words of one subject, “beyond explanation or definition”. Reports generally describe a humped, “eel-like or snake-like” creature, with “black and shiny” skin. It is generally seen on sunny and calm days, when the waters are less choppy and Scotland’s rain isn’t pissing down.

The most famous sighting — the one that grabbed Shine’s attention in 1969 — involved two men, Duncan McDonell and William Simpson. In the account, they describe a creature that accidentally ran into their boat while breaching the surface. Their initial fear was that it might capsize the boat. After attempting to fend it off with an oar, Simpson fired his rifle in the animal’s direction. He claims,

I then watched it slowly sink away and that was the last I’ve seen of it.

The whole thing would have been easy to write off were there not scores of other sightings before and after.

Morar is exactly the same as Campbell described it in 1972. The town is comprised of a hotel, a train platform and about ten houses.

The Morar Hotel is one of those terrifying old white houses, the kind with squeaky floors, a mysterious staff, and wall-to-wall carpet. I was given an umbrella at check-in and warned that rain came when it pleased, and often.

I made my way down to the water under careful directions from the hotel (“Turn left at the house with the satellite that’s pointed towards God.”) and took a look. It was ominous, moody and unfathomably quiet. The skies had gone dark and threatened to spill buckets. Nothing living moved on or around the lake. The opposing shore was at least a mile away and not one boat could be seen on the water. The loch was desolate.

The water had a wake that day, mostly because of the coming and going weather. I could see quite easily why there were so many false sightings in these parts — every rock or wave looked like something. One of the most common monster mistakes has been the misinterpretation of a boat wake. I could see why — a number of them caught my eye, tricking me too.

Rocks make a deceptive wake.

The rain finally started to fall as I tried my best to walk the path around the loch. It would have been impossible to circle in one day, so my plan was to make it halfway around, about another hour out from where the road ended.

In the course of six hours I saw three people, seven cars, and about ten houses. There just wasn’t much life on the loch, other than the occasional lamb or sheep.

My eyes remained on the water. It wasn’t so much that I was hoping to spot a giant serpent but more that the loch had some kind of draw, a quiet power that demanded attention. There was no doubt in my mind that if there is ever to be something discovered, it could be found here, rather than in a populated place like Loch Ness.

Half a day later, I was back at the hotel, sans monster story and waterlogged.

But Is There Something?

Nobody would talk to me.

I’d been warned about this from a few people but it was surprisingly true — the town has zero interest in kicking up a story and attracting tourists. It would seem that the fame of the 1969 sighting was enough of a taste for everyone.

I did speak with one woman who wished to remain anonymous. She said that the area was largely run by one of the older families and that they wanted nothing more than for the world to leave them (and their sheep) alone.

The mandate was that if you spoke, there’d be hell to pay. She herself has seen something in the water but brushed it off as quick as it was out of her mouth. “It was probably nothing.”

The sightings in The Search For Morag are all that really remains of the hunt in this loch and may serve as the end of any formal investigation. But they’re still compelling to this day. There is the story of John MacVarish:

What I saw was a long neck five or six feet out of the water with a small head on it, coming quite slowly down the loch.

And Charles Fishburne:

It passed within thirty-fifty yards to port…three large, black hump-shaped objects moving quickly through the water.

Or Kate MacKinnon:

It was rather like a huge eel…the neck was about one foot in diameter and was black in color.

All of these tales have to make you wonder if there is something out there and, if so, what it might be. There’s plenty of exploring left to be done in these waters and plenty of stories to be fished out.

If you’re interested in trying your hand then you couldn’t find a better place than Loch Morar. Just turn left at the satellite aimed towards God and keep walking.

Community Connection

If your own search for the Loch Morar monster comes up short, drown your sorrows by Boozing Through 5 Whisky Distillery Tours In Scotland.

Photo: mrmatt

THE GRAND CANYON is one of those ultimate family summer roadtrip destinations. I can picture the South Rim parking lot filled with cars with colorful license plates, heat ripples bending up from hot metal, RVs wedged into oversized spaces, and crowds camera-snapping at the overlooks.

Okay, maybe that scene plays out in winter too. Actually, back in February of 2007, I was one of those cars, one of that crowd. So I can report that, when it comes to the through-visitor, the overlook-tourist, the Grand Canyon has no low season.

Which is one big reason why, “to experience the canyon, you have to leave the rim.”

And according to Henry Shukman, author of “Walking Into the Earth’s Heart: The Grand Canyon” in a late November’s New York Times, the best time to get down into the interior is winter. Here’s his reasoning:

• Most importantly, almost no one hikes into the canyon in winter. During Shukman’s 3-day trip with his 8-year-old son, they only saw 20 or so other visitors.
• It’s cold — as opposed to sweltering. It’s nice to walk out of the shade and enjoy the warmth of the sunlight instead of cursing its heat.
• There may be snow and ice on the upper reaches of the trails, but once you get down a ways, it’s warm and sheltered enough that slipperiness isn’t an issue.

Photo: Corey Ann

Shukman’s piece has a rundown of lodging options, including the Phantom Ranch, which has dorm beds and is actually located at the bottom of the canyon. For route info, it’d be best to check out the National Park Service’s maps.

If the idea of the Grand Canyon in winter inspires you to make the hike (I know I’m thinking about it), or if you have in the past, share your experience in the comments.

Community Connection

Find out why Trips thinks the Grand Canyon is one of The World’s Richest National Parks. You can also read one Matador member’s take on the new Grand Canyon Skywalk.

Photo: The_Mad_Kiwi

TRAVELERS who lament the often sedentary pace of visiting big cities find a solution in sightjogging, in which participants jog past famous sights with a trained guide who a) knows the route and b) knows his/her stuff.

Whether your goal is traveling green, dropping a pound or two, or just getting out there and seeing the world, a running tour is a good way to start (or end) your day on the road.

Let’s run down the benefits. City running tours:

• are more ecological and energetic than a double-decker bus tour
• are less ridiculous looking than a Segway tour
• require less balance than a bike tour
• and are quicker (and often more extensive) than a walking tour.

Traveling Greener reports that London-based City Jogging Tours hosts six different themed tours for locals and visitors. Participants can choose from iconic, riverside, royal, scenic, heathside, and maritime London. London Sightseeing Runs also operates in the city.

Beyond the UK, check out Global Running Tours for its affiliate list, which currently includes 17 countries where you can lace up your runners and hoof it double (or triple) time through the sights.

Photo: Ed Yourdon

Companies are listed in Argentina, Australia, Austria, Canada, France, Germany, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Mexico, New Zealand, Peru, Portugal, Scotland, South Africa, Spain, and the United States. Peru’s Inca Runners even offers runs at altitude in and around Cuzco.

In the U.S., City Running Tours works in Austin, Charleston, Chicago, NYC, and DC, and will tailor tours to fitness level, training regimen, and desired landmarks.

There’s just one caveat to sightjogging: it may not be particularly friendly to photography. You should certainly opt for your point-and-shoot, especially if you want your DSLR to live another day.

Community Connection

Matador Sports reports on The Rat Race: Adventure Racing Comes to London and brings you a story of Running Wild With Kenya’s Safaricom Marathon.

Photo: westerndave

1. Bridger Bowl, Montana

Located near the college town of Bozeman, Bridger Bowl gets 350 inches of glorious powder each year, and it’s status as a nonprofit community ski area means above-average conditions for below-average prices.

The cat’s out, so on the best days the lifts can get busy. But that’s not what you’re here for. Bridger’s best is on the “Ridge,” 1,800 vertical feet of rock-wall chutes and hidden powder bowls where you (and your riding buddy, your avalanche beacons, your shovels and probes, and your Powerbars) can enjoy a little peace and quiet.

Or, if quiet isn’t your style, you can scream like a schoolgirl as you careen down near-vertical angles.

To hit the Ridge, you must first check in with ski patrol — they won’t let you through without proper avalanche gear and a good dose of common sense. Knowledge of the terrain and expert-level ability are recommended, as the Ridge has no hazard markings, plenty of steep, and epic snowfields that end equally epically in unmarked cliffs.

Keep in mind, the best terrain on the mountain is still accessed the old-fashioned way — on foot. Once you reach the Ridge, traverse either direction to Bridger Gully or The Nose and don’t even think about changing your mind. There’s no easy way down, and getting stuck on something you’re not prepared for isn’t fun.

2. Grand Targhee, Wyoming

Photo: skidrd

Just a few miles from the Idaho border lies Grand Targhee, a small resort at the end of a winding road on the west side of the Tetons. Accessible only through the town of Driggs, Targhee is isolated enough to stay out of the headlines despite killer conditions.

While Jackson Hole gets all the Wyoming glory (not to mention the furry-booted tourists), Grand Targhee quietly gets all the snow: 500 annual inches!

There’s not much expert terrain on the mountain, but all that snow transforms the landscape into a challenging and seemingly endless leg-burning powder stash.

One of the easiest ways to reach untracked snow at Grand Targhee is to head to Peaked Mountain to take advantage of the 1,000 acres of snowcat accessible riding/skiing. If you can’t swing that financially, try Mary’s Nipple (now referred to simply as “Mary’s,” for the kids’ sake) — just hoof it from the top of Dreamcatcher.

Warning: backside drops range from doable to death defying.

3. Jay Peak, Vermont

Thank the “Jay Cloud” for the copious amounts of snow that drop on Jay Peak each winter. Its 355 inches are just about the most ass-numbingly cold, straight-out-of-Canada snow you can find in the East.

Photo: 极博双板滑雪俱乐部

Jay is famous for its glade system, with trees that shield the slopes from gusty winds and make it possible to find surprise powder stashes long after a storm (good spots to look are Beaver Pond and other glades on the outskirts).

Advanced skiers and riders should check out Tuckerman’s Chute, a super steep and narrow, tree-lined, powder-filled funnel. Jay also has excellent backcountry, including the Dip, a wooded ride off the eastern edge of the ski area boundary. If you’ve never tried it, take along someone who has. The Dip leads back to the highway, but if you don’t know where to go, you’re in for a long hike out.

Jay was purchased by investors in 2008, who announced aggressive expansion plans. Can you say slopeside sushi, condo-mania, and giant overpriced sunglasses? Get here quick before the masses do. But remember to bring a jacket — they don’t call it the “Green Mountain Freezer” for nothing.

4. Powder Mountain, Utah

Often discussed as the next major resort in Utah, Powder Mountain is still overlooked and underestimated by road trippers hunting legendary Utah pow.

With over 7,000 skiable acres, “Pow Mow” is larger than Vail; its 500 annual inches ain’t too shabby either.

But thanks to the seven other high-profile resorts between it and Salt Lake City, the herds are effectively thinned out, leaving so much elbow room on the mountain that it’s not uncommon to go an entire day without crossing paths with another boarder.

Photo: jsmjr

There are only four chairlifts and three surface lifts, so get ready for alternative methods of uphill transport. In addition to the helicopter (yes!), Pow Mow has two snowcats that can take you up to areas like Lightning Ridge and its tree runs and bowls.

Or head up Hidden Lake Lift to the backside for a visit to Powder Country — 1,200 more acres of plunging fall lines, an obscene abundance of powder, and 1,800 vertical of tree-lined fun. When you’re finished, Powder Country ejects you onto an access road where Woody, your faithful bus driver since 1982, waits with a smile to take you back to the base lodge so you can do it all over again.

The buzz is definitely growing as skiers realize the mountain’s moniker is more than just a name. Loyalists fear the day Pow Mow becomes the next casualty of investor-ownership, but thankfully for you and me, that day is not today.

5. Mount Bohemia, Michigan

I know — great powder in Michigan?

In an area where crusty manmade snow and flat-as-roadkill terrain prevails, Mount Bohemia is a Midwest behemoth. Its 273 annual inches of dry lake-effect snow can remain untouched long after a storm rolls through, especially since it’s never groomed…ever!

The mountain stays uncrowded due to its remote location on the tip of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula — it’s convenient to nowhere. It’s got 71 runs, all but three rated black diamond or higher, and is absolutely no-frills.

Join the hardcore Midwesterners in the “Extreme Backcountry” area, which starts off slow but transforms into a raging mountain monster. Scout lines through cliffs (including an impressive 40-footer from the Horseshoe Chute), rock shelves, narrow chutes, and obstacles.

And the best part — the base lodge is a set of interconnected mushroom-like yurts!

Photo: Eve of Discovery

6. June Mountain, California

June Mountain is the “Best Kept Secret” of California. Just 20 miles past Mammoth Mountain, it’s worlds away from the touristy vibe next door.

With an average 250 annual inches and no shortage of sunshine-y days, June may have a shorter season, but I’ve personally logged more powder days here than on any other mountain — and we’re talking long after a storm. The sheltered runs and abundance of trees (none of its slopes are above treeline) hold onto powder significantly longer than they should.

Watch out for the crowds, though. On busy weekends, you might have to wait in line with four or five other smiling faces before hopping on the slow, creaky lift.

In-bounds offerings are limited for experts, but some of the best lift-accessed backcountry terrain in the area is found here. Personally though, on powder days it doesn’t get much better than leisurely cruising down a wide-open slope, cutting first tracks in the fresh while watching empty chair after empty chair pass overhead. (Dreamy sigh.)

Then, at the end of the day, you’ve got an obstacle-dodging steep final run down The Face. Don’t worry, your pansy friends can follow the easier cat track or even ride the lift.

And now I have to stop spilling secrets before someone hunts me down.

Community Connection

Trips wants to hear your suggestions for ski mountains we’ve never heard of. Test the knowledge of your fellow readers in the comments.

Also, make sure not to miss Riding the Recession: Best Budget North American Ski Resorts and our list of the Top 10 North American Resorts for Your 2009-2010 Ski Trip.

Or, for something completely different, check out Matador’s report on Mongolia’s first ski resort.

Photo: brainchildvn

Gay ski weeks…who knew? I didn’t, but I’m not sure why — there are tons on the calendar for the 2009-2010 ski season.

And there’s a lot more than powder on offer. We’re talking concerts, DJs, themed parties, comedy shows, and special packages (ahem).

Below is a selection of events from a variety of mountains and dates. To see the whole list, check out “A higher elevation” from www.dallasvoice.com.

Utah Gay & Lesbian Ski Week

where: Park City, Utah
when: January 6-10
website: GaySkiing.org

Utah starts it off. How nice of them. As the original article notes: “This is the Sundance Film Festival’s backyard, so it’s liberals everywhere for a few weeks.”

Aspen Gay & Lesbian Ski Week

where: Aspen, Colorado
when: January 17-24
website: GaySkiWeek.com

Now in its 33rd year, this is one of the biggies. Lots of music and a downhill drag race are included in the full 7 days of festivities.

Winter Explosion

where: Kerhonkson, New York
when: February 12-15
website: winterexplosion.com

The 16th annual Winter Explosion, dedicated especially to the African-American gay community, will also be its swan song. The artist Ledisi is headlining.

Telluride Gay Ski Week

where: Telluride, Colorado
when: February 20-27
website: www.telluridegayskiweek.com

This one’s been voted top gay ski week in the country. How could it not when hosting parties with names like Hump Night (on Wednesday, of course)?

WinterPride

where: Whistler, British Columbia
when: March 1-8
website: GayWhistler.com

After the Olympics shuts down, the pride party is set to hit Whistler-Blackcomb’s 8,000 skiable acres. There’s no telling which athletes might decide to book an extra week in the Olympic Village…

Community Connection

Plan out a different kind of vacation with Best American Spots for a Same-Sex Wedding and Ten of the World’s Farthest Flung Gay Bars.

Also check out Photo Essay: Gay Pride in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Photo: bernhardjeff

P-tex and wax the gear at home, throw some duct tape where it’s needed, bag a lunch, and save money by finding this year’s unforgettable lines at resorts that don’t fleece you for every nickel.

Mt. Bachelor, OR

New for this year, Bachelor has introduced sliding-scale ticket pricing. That means skiers pay for what they get instead of a flat ticket price.

Lift tickets go for $49, $59, or $69 depending on overall conditions: open terrain, lifts running, visibility, wind, and non-snow precipitation. Too many negative check marks and skiers pay just 49 bucks. (Slide-scale pricing not valid during holiday periods.)

Tack that onto the 3,683 acres of terrain and 3,365 feet of vert Bachelor always offers and a trip to Oregon is a no-brainer. Drop in this season before the pencil pushers think better and roll back the sliding scale.

Schweitzer, ID

Located in northwest Idaho on the southern end of the Selkirks, Schweitzer has some of the Northwest’s best powder. With 1,200 acres of glades, it also has a solid reputation for killer tree skiing.

Peeking through the trees, endless views of Lake Pend Oreille and three mountain ranges are another reason to love Schweitzer.

Tickets to the uncrowded, 2900-acre landscape of groomers, bowls, and trees cost just $59/day. For those late-rising types, Schweitzer keeps the Basin Express High Speed Quad cranking into the evening on holidays and weekends so everyone can get in on the action.

Wolf Creek, CO

Worlds away from mega-resorts like Aspen and Vail (in attitude, if not physical distance), Wolf Creek offers a different experience from your average Colorado ski resort.

While the big names are busy taking home titles like “Best Cuisine” or “Best Place to Schuss with a Celebrity,” low-key Wolf Creek goes home with the one that matters: Most Snow (in CO).

With over 450 inches annually, this mountain is feet ahead of every other Colorado resort. Access to that stash costs just $52/day.

Photo: foto3116

Loveland, CO

At the other end of Colorado’s ski map from Wolf Creek, Loveland spends the winters buried under 400 inches. Lift ticket prices don’t dig deep at all, staying under $60.

Loveland’s season is one of the longest in Colorado, and it has an annual battle with nearby A-Basin over season opening (this year it had the first in the country: Oct. 7).

Loveland is one of the most accessible resorts to make this list, only 53 miles from Denver. That short drive brings skiers 1,570 acres of open bowls and groomers, and one of the highest peak elevations in North America at over 13,000 feet.

Saddleback, ME

Saddleback isn’t quite as well-known as the other big S’s of Maine (Sugarloaf and Sunday River), but it’s not for lack of great skiing.

A family-oriented mountain where lifts and runs are named after fly fishing rivers and equipment, it’s home to 2,000 feet of vertical, big, invigorating glade skiing, and some of the East’s only hike-to, above-treeline snowfields.

The entire side of the mountain serviced by the Kennebago Quad Chair is dedicated to advanced and expert skiers and riders.

This year saw a significant leap in lift ticket price, but when you start at $40 and jump to $49 for some of the best terrain in the region, it’s hard to complain — especially when other Maine resorts are priced well over $70.

Alyeska, AK

One of the few mountains in Alaska that trades helicopters and skins for lifts, Alyeska gets bombed like virtually no place in the lower 48.

Photo: dweekly

By its own calculations, skiers can expect to enjoy 631 inches annually. And that’s mid-mountain — a trip to the top unlocks 742.

You’d expect that to come at a premium, but lift tickets cost just $60/day. And after the initial $5 for the rechargeable, plastic ticket, a daily recharge runs just $55. Multi-day tickets bring the price down to $50/day.

That’s a small price to pay for bottomless powder, huge Alaskan views, and plenty of challenging, steep terrain.

Castle Mountain, Alberta

Generally stuck in the shadows of Alberta staples like Lake Louise and Sunshine Village, Castle Mountain has similar huge, Canadian Rocky riding for a little less coin.

Day tickets go for $62, giving access to a playground filled with demanding bowls, steeps, and chutes funneling down Castle’s 2,833 feet of vertical, all blanketed in dry, Rocky Mountain pow.

Check out Castle’s website to scope some tight, gnarly backcountry lines and the names and dates of their first descents.

All that backcountry detail on a very basic site that looks like it hasn’t been updated in eight or nine years — gotta respect.

Snowbasin, UT

Sure, Snowbasin’s 400 annual inches may not sound like much compared to the 500 or so enjoyed by other Utah destination resorts. But not all powder is created equal.

Instead of the fevered, powder-morning rush to lay claim on first tracks — standard fare at Alta or Snowbird — expect a leisurely walk onto an empty Snowbasin lift and a choice of untracked lines once at the top.

A little extra mileage from the airport, lack of on-mountain lodging, and world-class lift infrastructure equal a sprawling yet uncrowded resort with great access to steep terrain, backcountry, and of course, featherlight powder.

Photo: Rylan Schoen

At the window, tickets run $65, but plan ahead and you can find discounts at local outlets like Canyon Sports for $57/day.

Mt. Baker, WA

While the goal here was to create a list of serious but inexpensive destinations unique from last year, Mt. Baker makes a return for obvious reasons: snowiest resort in the world for $47.50 (after tax) a day.

Baker throws in plenty of steep pitch, expert terrain, and convenient backcountry access, making for some of the most thrilling riding in the country.

Community Connection

Photo: Celso Flores

Moulay Idriss

Its tumble of white buildings gleams like something pure against dark mountains. Its steep, narrow lanes are lined with cool painted rock, and filled with the movement of donkeys, bread carts, boys playing ball, and schoolgirls that grin shyly before booking it away from you in a bobble of pink backpacks.

Moulay Idriss is one of Morocco’s holiest places — non-Muslims were banned from the small town until the mid-20th century. Tourism has been slow to take off due to this pious reputation and the town’s proximity to the bigger draws of Meknes and Fez.

Photo: zongo69

That’s not to say it’s unmolested by tourism — a small number of touts hang around the medina entrance, and a colorful array of guesthouse signs describe modern comforts.

But in Moulay Idriss, the “bonjour”s you get on the street are less likely to be from a shopkeeper or “new friend,” but rather a smiling passerby.

The surrounding green mountains are great for rural hikes, and any guesthouse will arrange for a guide. Bonus: the vast and under-visited Roman ruins of Volubilis are a 45-minute walk from town.

Frequent grand taxis to Moulay Idriss leave from central Meknes, opposite the Institut Francais. You can book a room ahead at backpacker-friendly Buttons Inn, but if you arrive early in the day, arranging a stay at a family-run guesthouse is easy.

Mirleft

While the plush tour buses pull in to ex-hippie-hangout Essauoira, the rattling, once-an-hour public bus takes you down the Atlantic coast to tiny Mirleft. Less than an hour from Tiznit, Mirleft is set in the pebbly red earth just off the coast and has five undeveloped beaches within walking distance.

There’s one bank, one internet café, and not a whole lot to do other than relax.

Photo: Author

While wealthy Marrakeshis vacation in beachside landscaped homes, travelers, artists, and everyone else hang around the town’s dirt-road center — when they’re not out sunbathing.

Hotel Atlas is the best bet for backpackers, while touts will offer you plenty of private house rentals.

There are lots of other beaches around Mirleft. Legzira Plage is only a 20-minute bus ride down the road to Sidi Ifni. Females traveling solo especially will appreciate the opportunity to wave-hop and walk amid the sandstone arches in peace.

To reach Mirleft from Tiznit, take either a grand taxi from the medina or a local bus from the main bus station.

Casablanca

You won’t hear much good about Casablanca, either from travelers or other Moroccans. Too Western, too big-city, too modern, too poverty-ridden — the sour rep deters most from anything more than short layovers. Which is what makes Casablanca such a hassle-free destination.

Sure, its wide streets and gleaming new construction don’t lend much historical ambiance, but Casablanca is perhaps the best place to experience modern Morocco.

Sharp-cheeked immigrants shine the shoes of French businessmen, beggars hold out gnarled palms, girls wear tank tops and skinny jeans, and cars honk and careen and somehow don’t collide. Men and women chat over tea and cigarettes at café tables.

Photo: P.J.P.

The medina lacks touts, shopkeepers ignore you, and no one offers to help when you’re “lost, my friend?”

And then there’s the art galleries, restaurants and, yes, bars. Casablanca may not fulfill any exotic visions, but it does prove that Morocco continues to be a place at the crossroads.

Morocco’s biggest airport is in Casablanca, so there’s a good chance you’ll pass through whether you want to or not. One of Morocco’s few HI youth hostels is located just inside the Old Medina. Eerily empty, it has the cheapest beds in town.

Erg Chigaga/Zagora

Entering dusty Zagora, you pass a sign along its main street that reads, “Tombouctou 52 Jours”: “52 Days to Timbuktu.”

Riding a camel into the Sahara is top on most Morocco hit-lists. Convenience sends most tourists to desert Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, but those with a little more time, money, and tolerance for camel saddles head to the sand-swept trading post of Zagora.

Desert caravans have been riding into and out of Zagora for centuries, but these days travelers can arrange Sahara expeditions that aren’t 52 days long.

Photo: wonker

Numerous outfitters do 4WD and camel expeditions to the isolated, sky-scraper-high dunes of Erg Chigaga.

Avoid the street touts and book with reputable companies like Caravane Desert et Montagne. You’ll get the bonus of staying with nomadic and Berber families during your expedition.

In town, Auberge Restaurant Chez Ali (website in French) offers affordable rooms and meals, as well as overnight trips.

Visiting the nearby villages and exploring the Draa Valley is a major plus of basing yourself in Zagora. If you’ve got wheels, check out the organic co-op Hart Chaou community garden project in Agdz, the ancient rock carvings of Timiderte, the jewelers of Amerzou’s old Jewish Kasbah, or the pottery collective of holy village Tamegroute. You can also arrange for day trips to and tours of these destinations with Zagora outfitters.

First-class bus company CTM operates routes to Zagora from Casablanca via Marrakesh and Ouarzazate, the nearest major city. Smaller bus companies run infrequently to nearby towns; grand taxis are available as well.

Tafraoute/Ameln Valley

A lion watches over the sleepy town of Tafraoute.

Or at least that’s what the villagers will tell you, gesturing at one of the distinct rock formations just outside of town that resembles a lion’s face. Another apparently looks like Napoleon’s hat.

Carved into the hills, Tafraoute is an a trekker’s dream. Uber-fit hikers and cyclers are about the only other travelers you’ll see here, largely due to the infrequency of bus service through the Anti-Atlas mountains.

Photo: Martin and Kathy Dady

The main attraction of Tafraoute is its immediate access to undeveloped wilderness dotted with Berber and Chlueh tribe villages.

Mountain biking and trekking expeditions take you through the Ameln Valley, up peak Jebel Lekst (2359m), or through the green gorges of Ait Mansour.

For trips closer to town, you can rent a bike from Hotel Salama (also your best bet for lodging), or grab a local trail map from Au Coin des Nomades. Those with bigger budgets might enjoy a 4WD Jeep with driver, which can be arranged by Tafraoute Adventure.

Make sure not to miss the prehistoric rock engravings near neighboring towns Tazekka and Tirnmatmat. Any aches and pains can be sweated away in a local hammam.

Small bus companies operate from Agadir via Tiznit, and there’s limited service to Casablanca and Marrakesh.

Community Connection

If you’re planning a trip to Morocco, make sure to check out the Matador’s destination resources on the country.

You also don’t want to skip Paul Sullivan’s Photo Essay: Exploring Morocco’s Pink City and Beyond.

Photo: alykat

Friend of Trips Matt Stabile, aka TheExpeditioner, has tossed out some priceless (literally) travel tips for anyone heading to New York City this holiday season.

The piece, titled Top 10 Free Things To Do In New York City This December, tells you which big-name museums have free entry when, where you can catch no-cover tunes, and, of course, how to enjoy a Christmas-themed Big Apple on a budget.

Here are the pointers I’d be following if I were in town:

• Hit up the West Village’s Garage Restaurant for free jazz — any night of the week.
• Skip the symphony and head to Julliard for free performances by tomorrow’s virtuosos.
• Instead of getting jostled in Rockefeller Center, check out South Street Seaport’s big tree, plus free chorus carols on Fridays and Saturdays.
• Same deal, only with ice skating. Pass over the film-famous rinks for the one in Prospect Park. If you’re just a watcher, go this Friday (Dec. 18) for “Disco Skate.” Note: It’s not quite free; cost is $5.

For the full list, make sure to visit the original post here. Thanks, Matt!

Community Connection

Regardless of when you visit the city, take Trips’ Budget Guide to New York City with you.

Photo: obvio171 (cc-by-sa)

If going to a shopping mall to get your Santa or Christmas carols fix doesn’t sound too appealing to you, how about an airport? After all, as travelers, they should seem like our second home.

Harriet Baskas at USA Today has compiled a pretty cool list in her article At the Airport: Contests, carolers, coupons, and karaoke for the holidays. I’ll even give her two bonus points for her use of alliteration.

Here are some of the interesting sounding events happening at an airport near you:

Indianapolis International Airport

When: December 12
What: Petting zoos! Well, sort of. One is hosted by the Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra where you can get up close and personal with their instruments. The second is being held by the Humane Society of Indianapolis where you can also adopt a pet.

Photo: TheGiantVermin

Musical entertainment will be on site all month, culminating on Christmas Eve with a Santa tuba ensemble.

Philadelphia International Airport

When: December 15 – 24
What: Santa will be milling around greeting travelers and posing for pics.

I would have thought he’d be extra busy in the toy factory, but I suppose for a man who gets around the world in a single night, time isn’t an issue.

Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport

When: All of December
What: Coupons. 80 of them to be exact.

Pick your booklet up at one of the information booths or online at ShopsAtMSP.com. Peruse this schedule of musical entertainment and pick your dates.

George Bush International Airport and Detroit Metro Airport

When: December 19 at GBI and December 20 – 23 at DMA (McNamara/Delta Terminal)
What: Karaoke. Everyone loves karaoke.

Here in Australia, I just heard that ABBA’s Waterloo is the top pick for wannabe crooners. Word of caution: I would definitely be wary about choosing Tom Jones’s Sex Bomb. Not a good word to use there.

For more airport events, make sure to visit the article at USA Today. Maybe there’s something happening near you.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more airport reading, check out Food on the Fly — the Best Airport Restaurants, The World’s 10 Most Technologically Advanced Airport Terminals, and — at the other end of the spectrum — The World’s Worst Airports.

Maybe you’re using an airport to get to Europe this December. If so, don’t miss Where to Find the Best Christmas Markets in Europe.

So tell me, besides catching a flight or just people-watching, do you go to airports for other reasons?

Antarctica’s Pole of Inaccessibility / Photo: Cookson69

Earth is a mighty big place, and if you’re willing to strap on some snowshoes or trek through barren deserts there’s a whole lot of strangeness left out there.

1. The Southern Pole of Inaccessibility

Location: Antarctica

Antarctica’s Pole of Inaccessibility — the point farthest from the sea in all directions — is probably the most remote spot on the planet. It’s also the coldest, with an average year-round temperature of -58.2C (-72F).

The exact location is always in dispute, but the best marker lies at 82°06′S 54°58′E, where a creepy plastic bust of Vladimir Lenin sits atop a cabin built by the Soviets in 1958. The cabin is completely buried in ice, but should you manage to dig it up there’s a golden visitor’s book left for intrepid souls to sign their name.

2. Derweze – the Door to Hell

Location: Turkmenistan

While drilling for gas near Derweze in 1971, a team of geologists in Turkmenistan accidentally collapsed an underground natural gas cavern. Rather than have the poisonous gas escape and kill the local semi-nomadic Teke people, the team lit it on fire.

It’s been burning ever since.

3. The Principality of Sealand

Location: English Channel

Nice place to visit but… / Photo: Source

After WWII, several British gun platforms were abandoned in the English Channel.

In 1967, a pirate radio broadcaster took up residence in one of them and declared the fort an independent nation, and after a run-in with the Royal Navy a court ruled that Sealand was outside British jurisdiction.

It’s been operating more or less as its own country ever since, issuing passports, currency, and tourist visas. There was even an attempted coup that involved helicopters, a shotgun, and several hostages, resulting in a German diplomat being sent to the nation.

Freedom from legal restrictions has made Sealand an attractive base for online casinos and filesharers, so “custodianship” of the principality is currently on sale for the low, low price of 750 million euros.

4. Bouvet Island

Location: South Atlantic Ocean

Photo: NOAA Photo Library

Technically a part of Norway, the nearest landmass to Bouvet Island is an empty chunk of Antarctica over 1750km (1090 miles) away.

Inhabited only by lichens, penguins and seals, Bouvet nonetheless has its own internet domain (.bv).

The most remote island in the world has only been visited a handful of times by various research expeditions and explorers attempting to claim it for their homeland, and in 1964 a mysterious boat loaded with supplies was discovered without any trace of its passengers.

Though in reality the most interesting thing on the island is probably a ruined weather station, the film Alien vs. Predator took place mostly on Bouvet.

5. Bir Tawil

Location: The Egyptian-Sudanese border

Bir Tawil is a barren trapezoid of land between Egypt and Sudan that is so useless neither country will admit they own it. Both states claim its much more attractive sister territory, the Hala’ib Triangle, but due to treaty terms neither state can claim both.

It’s little more than sand, rocks, and a well in the middle, but it has the distinction of being the only unclaimed piece of Earth outside of Antarctica.

Photo: Austin Vince

6. The Zilov Gap

Location: Central Siberia

The Trans-Siberian railway was completed in 1916, but its builders made sure to avoid the Zilov Gap. It’s a 640km (400 mile) stretch of wilderness so inaccessible that it wasn’t crossed until 2000.

If you’ve seen The Long Way Round, this was the impassable section that forced Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman to hop the train.

As of 2005 a road through the Gap was under construction, but given the condition of the average Russian highway, my guess is it will still make for an adventure.

7. Mount Thor

Location: Baffin Island, Nunavut, Canada

Photo: Ansgar Walk

Although not a particularly tall mountain, Mount Thor is home to the greatest purely vertical drop in the world.

At 1250m (4101ft), the drop is over one and a half times higher than the tallest man-made structure ever built — currently the Burj Dubai.

An American team set the world record for longest rappel in 2006 on Mount Thor; another attempt by a Canadian park ranger ended tragically when his equipment failed and he dropped to his death.

8. Mir Mine

Location: Mirny, Siberia

The Mir diamond mine in Mirny, Eastern Siberia is one of the biggest manmade holes in the world. At 525m (1720ft) deep and 1200m (3900ft) wide, it’s so huge it can suck in helicopters flying over it due to the downward air flow (the air space above is off limits because of this).

Its sister mine, Udachnaya pipe, is equally gigantic, and both can easily be seen on Google Maps:

Mir Mine
Udachnaya pipe

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Mount Thor isn’t among our 11 Most Dangerous Mountains in the World for Climbers, but perhaps it should be.

For more straight-up weirdness, check out Liberoachi, Voodoos, and Condiments: The World’s 10 Wackiest Museums.

Photo: Giustino

The Swahili Coast is an ancient place where cultures have met and blended during ten centuries of trade. Lamu Town, on Lamu Island off the north Kenya coast, is the purest expression of Swahili culture remaining.

Getting there

Lamu Island is one of the larger islands of the archipelago by the same name that lie scattered along the Kenyan coast just south of the border with Somalia.

The easiest and safest way to reach Lamu is by air, since the roads are poor and sometimes impassable, and the infamous Somali pirates operate offshore. Several of Kenya’s reliable small airline companies fly daily from Nairobi to Lamu, including Air Kenya and Safarilink (out of Wilson Airport), and Fly 540 (from Jomo Kenyatta International).

Photo: Cessna 206

Be prepared for sticker shock — a roundtrip is over $300 per person.

The flight carries you out to the rustic landing strip on nearby Manda Island in about two hours. Collect your bag, walk down to the new jetty, and board a dhow to cross the channel to Lamu Town, visible in the distance. It’s only a 15-minute boat ride.

Shortly after taking to the water, Lamu Town will come into focus. Sure, modern amenities like satellite dishes and telephone poles are present, but overall the town retains the image of an old Swahili port with mosques overlooking the dockside go-downs and tall houses of once-wealthy merchants.

The waterfront is full of fishmongers and wholesalers, idlers and laborers, men in kanzu and kofia (caftan and traditional embroidered cap), women shrouded in black bui bui, and uncountable donkeys, dogs, cats, chickens, and children taking it easy.

Getting around

The narrow alleyways of the old town hardly permit the passage of two people side-by-side. There’s only one automobile on the island, and almost everyone gets around on foot, or on donkey-back.

Photo: Sand Paper

Water taxis are available for a few hundred bob (local slang for Kenyan shillings). Bargain hard. The price will come down.

Even on the hottest days of the year, the alleyways of Lamu Town are cool and shady. Bougainvillea and frangipani line the walls and the passages are animated by the billowing veils of Muslim women in their bui bui.

With more than 30 mosques and a population of just over 5,000, Islam is ever-present, beginning with the first call to prayer before sunrise.

Harambee Avenue, the main street parallel to the wharf just 50 meters from the waterfront, is good for a wander. Other than the occasional tourist and a few modern boutiques, there’s little to indicate the town has changed much in the last few decades.

Lamu Fort Square / Photo: Author

Locals will ignore you as they go about their business or chat in the doorways of the many little dukas that line the street.

In the town square in front of the old Fort, built by the Omani Arabs in 1808, an ancient almond tree with broad, dark green leaves creates an atmosphere of calm and a shady place for people to gather.

The fort is interesting to explore, and the National Museum nearby is supposed to be one of the best in Kenya.

Where to eat

It’s easy to eat well for very little in Lamu. Whispers Cafe on Harambee, behind the old waterfront mosque (now abandoned), has a cool courtyard filled with palms and flowering vines.

Shela Village / Photo: Author

A couple miles east along the waterfront is Shela Village, where you’ll find the Peponi Hotel.

A local institution since the 1960s, and still operated by the founding family, the hotel is worth a visit, and the restaurant is excellent.

If nothing else, try a dawa (a popular Kenyan drink made of limes, honey, and vodka) on the veranda, where you can sit and watch the boats sail by.

Where to stay

Near the Peponi in Shela Village is Kijani House, a complex of a dozen rooms built around a labyrinth of little gardens with small dipping pools for cooling down on a hot day. Rates are very reasonable.

There are other small boutique hotels in Shela, and many hotels and rooming houses in Lamu Town. If you prefer peace and quiet, and easy access to a wonderful beach, Shela is the better option. The southern shore of Lamu Island has a 13km sandy beach, and you’ll rarely see 10 people at a time on it.

Manda Beach / Photo: un punto in movimento

You can also hire a dhow to take you to Manda Island to walk the beach opposite Shela.

There are B&Bs and a bar there, and at the eastern end, just before you reach the wild and rocky Indian Ocean coastline at Ras Kitau, there’s a camping area for backpackers.

Ras Kitau seems to go on forever, with craggy promontories, wide sandy beaches, and big tidal pools — the Swahili Coast as the Portuguese saw it in the 16th century.

Community Connection

Matador’s got you covered if you’re heading over to Africa’s west coast as well. Check out Five Reasons to Go to Angola in 2009 (And Beyond).

A new addition at Hotel Costa Verde

People seem to have an innate fascination with conceptualizing wacky hotels, as well as paying hard-earned money to sleep in them.

Last year, Trips introduced you to Igloos, Castles, Sewage Pipes, and Survival Pods: The World’s 10 Weirdest Hotels. But there’s so much more material out there we felt it was time for a sequel.

Flipping the mattress on transport

Check out some of these vehicles-turned-swank-crash-pads, as profiled by divine caroline:

Photo courtesy of The Grand Daddy

* Cape Town, South Africa’s Grand Daddy hotel brings something new to the penthouse crowd. They’ve reclaimed and creatively redecorated seven Airstream travel trailers and dropped them on the hotel roof.

* In Christchurch, New Zealand, Wagon Stays offers all the perks of a studio apartment (kitchen, bathroom, bed, plus TV and Internet) in the confines of a mock-up, settler-era covered wagon.

The site is far out enough to give you “rural” views but still close to restaurants and stores. It’s marketed as “eco friendly.”

* As Tom Gates recently inquired over at Matador Nights, Pimp My Jet?

Yes, the Hotel Costa Verde, located just outside Costa Rica’s Manuel Antonio National Park, has created a two-bedroom suite out of a salvaged Boeing 727.

* Sticking to the airborne theme is Winivan, a complex of luxury cottages in Connecticut. One of their properties includes a refurbished Coast Guard helicopter, complete with kitchen, sofa, and swiveling pilot’s chair.

* Lots of trains have sleeper cars, but not like this. The Controversy B&B in Hoogwoud, Holland, has a bed made out of an old rowboat and a Jacuzzi in the shape of “a Mexican sombrero.” Check out their promo video:

Sleep with the fishes

Now over to Woman’s Day and a list of accommodations below the waves:

* Jules’ Undersea Lodge, off the coast of Key Largo, Florida, claims to be “the first and only underwater hotel” (the others in this list have yet to open). It’s also the site of ongoing marine research projects.

This place is for real — to enter, guests scuba down 21 feet to the “moon pool” entrance. Quarters are tight, with two small bedrooms and a common room available. Groups of up to six people can be accommodated.

Jules’ Undersea Lodge / Photo: Mi-Wu

* If you want under-ocean views and luxury, you’ve gotta wait till next year, when two pretty spectacular-looking properties are set to open (or so go the rumors).

The first is Fiji’s Poseidon Undersea Resort. The facility will be a mile long, decked out with a restaurant and suites all featuring windows on the water and the abundant marine life outside.

You’ll only scuba here if you choose to — access is via a more “civilized” 40-foot elevator. Guests can also tool around in a mini-sub.

* I’m not sure I could think of a less obvious location for an underwater resort than Istanbul, which is also supposedly building a submerged hotel. The seven-story structure will have plenty of windows from which to admire the average ten feet of visibility in the Bosphorus Strait.

Community Connection

How about a hostel in a jet? Check out the World’s Most Unique Lodging: A Look Inside the Jumbo Hostel.

If you enjoyed the video in this post, head over to browse the best travel video on the web at MatadorTV.

Photo: Chris Van den Broeck

Many people only know South Korea for what it’s not. What little awareness there is usually only extends to Seoul, the country’s high-tech capital.

A shame, because this little peninsula has some gorgeous sights if you know where to look — especially once you travel beyond the mega-tropolis that covers the northwest. For example…

Busan

After months of living in what can feel like a mono-cultural Seoul, one of my happiest moments was on a weekend trip to Busan. I strolled through a carved Chinese gate to a former U.S. military hangout known as “Texas Town” for some authentic Russian pierogies.

Melting pot, I’d missed you so.

Photo: Ianz

Busan may be big, but it’s tough to feel stifled in “the San Francisco of South Korea.” Its plum location on the Sea of Japan makes Busan a trade hub, where small foreign companies set up shop.

Over the years, foreign communities have planted their own districts within the city, giving it a friendly, welcoming feel.

But what really makes Busan is its easy juxtaposition of the urban and the natural. Swanky highrise blocks give way to cool, hikeable mountains.

The coast is lined with beaches, from quiet Songdo to see-and-be-seen Haeundae. The latter throws rock festivals and sandcastle exhibitions all summer long, and recently hit Guinness record fame for the most parasols set up on a single beach.

You can hit Busan’s galleries and shops at ten o’clock, take a mountain hike at noon, and come down well before sunset for a dip in the sea or some live music.

Damyang

Sitting between two mountains in southwestern Korea, the small town of Damyang has 25 dense hectares of green bamboo forests.

Photo: Tennessee Wanderer

While Korean cities tend to get smoggy and humid in the summertime, this natural reserve is said to stay five degrees cooler than the rest of the town. This makes Damyang a refreshing summer trip; one that Koreans will happily make from the far reaches of the country.

Families come for picnics, couples carve their initials into bamboo stalks, and souvenir vendors will try their darndest to send you home with a set of bamboo wind chimes, placemats, toy swords, or panpipes.

Hungry? Local restaurant menus are inclined to feature bamboo in each and every dish, Iron Chef style. Expect to see bamboo soup, stew, noodles, pastries.

When waiters tell you it’s “very healthy” and “good for stamina” (wink wink), don’t assume that’s code for “yeah, it’s vile, just eat it.” Bamboo’s mild flavor takes to pretty much any dish.

Jeju

The island of Jeju-do is the #1 Korean honeymoon spot, a little bit Hawaii and a little bit South Padre.

It’s also got the mountain of Halla-San, South Korea’s highest peak. Hiking trails are graded and can take you to pretty lookouts, or all the way to the top.

Photo: giladr

Equestrianism is another big thing here, and there are a dozen horseback riding facilities, most of which will nonchalantly throw in cowboy costumes when you take a ride.

A laid-back holiday option is to rent a motorbike and tour Jeju-do’s pretty beaches. In the summer, the water is clear and cool. In the winter, the island attracts “penguin clubs” who take icy dips in the sea.

In the city of Jeju, hotels range from basic to honeymoon-cheesy, with heart-shaped beds, tubs, light fixtures, and rugs.

On that note, one of Jeju’s most popular after-dark activities is Jeju Loveland. It’s Korea’s only sex theme park, founded by a group of (who else?) university art students.

Here, you can stroll among larger-than-life sculptures of midcoitus couples, soloists, and huge, huge sex organs.

Gyeongju

Korea’s answer to Pleasantville is a breath of fresh, smog-free air. No skyscrapers, no 6-lane roads…heck, I don’t recall seeing any escalators.

Photo: yeowatzup

In the former capital of the Silla Dynasty, no one’s in a hurry. This is good news for visitors, since the town has some monumental historic sights. Take your time exploring them.

The nearby temple complex of Seokguram Grotto is one of South Korea’s proudest historic structures. The Buddhist park feel like an open-air museum of Eastern art.

Gilded Buddhas, stone pagodas, and the beautiful Bulguksa temple all hold National Treasure status as relics of the former dynasty (and all-around gorgeous artifacts).

A little less serene, Gyeongju’s also home to Han-Ho, an internationally rated high-speed go-karting track.

Those traveling in April can see the town get messy in its weekend-long rice cake and soju festival. The former is a sweet, addictive dessert; the latter, Korea’s most popular (and potent) alcohol. Festival vendors hand out generous samples of both.

Boseong

Picture yourself as the star of the most persuasive green tea commercial ever made. Rolling hills? Dewy tea leaves? Technicolor shades of green? Yep, that’s Boseong.

Photo: leojmelsrub

Its green tea fields have such pastoral beauty that cinematographers often use the location for movies and melodramas (and yes, a high-budget commercial or two). Korean daytrippers love it too, and will hike the fields with enormous, cumbersome cameras, trying to capture it all.

In addition to lovely views, this region of the South Jeolla province is said to grow the most delicious green tea in South Korea. The plantation of Daehandawon is the oldest and largest in the area, set in a cool cedar forest.

From the tea plantation, a 15-minute bus or cab will take you to the tiny coastal village of Hwa-dong. It’s worth a visit for a post-hike trip to the jinjaeban: a Korean public spa. The one in Hwa-dong offers a range of hot green tea baths.

Community Connection

If this post inspires you to plan a trip, make sure to study the 10 Korean Customs To Know Before You Visit Korea.

Many, many Matadorians have spent time in South Korea, including Trips editor Hal Amen. You can hit him up with your questions by visiting his Matador profile.

Photo: loop_oh

Their list of “World’s Best Affordable Hotels” takes on five continents (though heavily weighted towards the U.S.) and nightly rates from $40 to $150.

I’m not familiar with Budget Travel, but I know if I clicked over expecting to get the scoop on cheap hotels, $150 price tags would be pretty disappointing — no matter how many Mongolian yurt spas or swimming pool waterfalls were promised me.

Short of a press trip, I can’t envision ever staying at Hotel Contempo in Managua, Nicaragua, for $130/night. Budget Travel recommends it for its teak furniture and a staff who can arrange day trips to an eco-reserve. My guess is you could get the same at a $10/bed hostel.

Only a handful of the 31 picks are even under $100, and half of these are in Southeast Asia.

Ranting aside…

A couple entries stood out (in a good way):

Poolside at The Pearl / Photo: Catchpenny

* El Cortez Cabana Suites, Las Vegas: A renovated motel, close to the Strip, with rooms from $42.

* Camping de Bordeaux Lac, France: One-bedroom lakeside cottages from $50. Sounds sweet.

* The Pearl Hotel, San Diego: Classic films screened weekly by the pool, rooms from $79.

Also, fans of the boutique hostel might want to check out Oops!, located near Paris’s Latin Quarter.

Community Connection

What’s the upper limit of your “affordable”? Have any favorite places that fit the bill? Let us know in the comments.

Photo: emutree

Getting on the water has always been a “must” for visitors to Venice, whether springing for a romantic gondola tour or simply hopping on a vaporetto waterbus. The canals define the city, and experiencing them from water level can be a lot of fun.

The company Venice Kayak has recently taken that idea in a new direction, offering guided kayak tours through the maze of waterways that comprise the floating city.

In a piece for The Guardian titled Kayaking in Venice: who needs a gondola?, Teresa Machan shares her story of paddling the Grand Canal, getting cut off by gondolas, and disembarking for gelato breaks.

Photo: ezioman

As Machan relates, the tours also take you out of the boat traffic and into the surrounding marshes of Laguna Veneta that otherwise can be difficult to explore as a tourist.

On the lagoon’s little islands are abandoned monasteries, insane asylums, military facilities, and other forgotten and slightly spooky sites to explore.

Venice Kayak’s accommodation options include camping near its headquarters on the sandbar of Lido de Venezia, a half hour paddle from the city.

Kayaking and camping…not typically what you think of for a Venice vacation.

Community Connection

While in Venice, save some euros with the tips from Sightseeing in Venice for (Almost) Free.

Photo: chadmagiera

For years, Iceland was considered one of the most expensive countries for travelers.

More recently, it became a high-profile casualty of the world’s financial woes, famously declaring bankruptcy just over a year ago.

Now look at it. It’s been named by Lonely Planet as the #1 economic tourist destination of 2010. Says LP,

Have you always wanted to discover this magical, mysterious country? To explore ice caps and volcanoes, and wallow in hot springs? Been put off because of the prohibitive prices? Well, 2010 is your year.

Get the full story from AFP here.

Another out-of-placer on the list is London, which — as Trips reported previously — is no longer burning through your travel dollar.

Presumably we’re working on a relative scale here (I mean, Iceland has a ways to go before hitting the bargain basement of Thailand, #2). In other words, these destinations are steals compared to what they cost just a few years ago.

So it’ll still take some careful planning to tour Iceland’s fire and ice and throw down on the Reykjavik Rúntur without blowing your budget for the flight home.

Community Connection

Will Lonely Planet’s “bargain” list influence your travel decisions? Let us know in the comments below.

Photo: mattwi1s0n

There are believers, there are skeptics, and there are those who just need a little more proof. If you fall into the third category, why wait for someone else to convince you that ghosts really do exist?

Ghostbusting isn’t just for Bill Murray and Dan Akroyd. This is a real profession which many investigators take very seriously. One of them is Loyd Auerbach, parapsychologist and Director of the Office of Paranormal Investigations.

Loyd took some time to chat with Matador’s Juli Huang to dispel some common misconceptions about ghost hunting, so before you go off on your own, make sure you read her piece Ghostbusting 101: 6 Myths Debunked by Loyd Auerbach and also Loyd’s website Mindreader.com.

To help you in your quest to seek the truth, I’ve gathered up five haunted locations in the U.S. that you can visit.

So, turn the lights off, light a few candles, and read on.

Haunting #1: Moss Beach Distillery

Location: San Mateo County, California

Photo: schommsen

Legend: Over 70 years ago, a young woman met and fell in love with a pianist who played at the bar which is now the Moss Beach Distillery.

Although she was married with a young child, she made regular visits to the restaurant to be with her lover. It is said she was killed by her enraged husband when he found out about the affair.

She has been dubbed “The Blue Lady” because of her attire and now roams around in a torn and bloody blue dress, although recent sightings have her in clean black cocktail dresses. According to Loyd Auerbach, she has revealed her real name as Elizabeth Claire Donovan, but prefers to be called Cayte (and specifically spelled this way).

Besides showing herself, physical events such as swinging lamps, moving glassware, anomalous magnetic fields, and fluctuating temperatures have been observed during investigations. Employees also bear witness to strange events such as books flying off of shelves by themselves and the feeling of a presence.

Haunting #2: Banta Inn

Location: Banta (Tracy), California

Legend: The Banta Inn has a storied history. Originally built as a saloon and inn by reputed outlaw Frank Gallegos, it later served as a bordello. The building was destroyed in 1937 by fire, but was rebuilt using some of the original timber.

According to reports, two people died in the fire, and they may play a part in the mysterious goings-on in the Inn today, like objects flying around and the appearance of shadow people.

The most persistant ghost, though, is that of Tony Gurkan. Tony was the husband of Jenny, Frank Gallegos’s youngest daugther, and the couple owned the bar in the 60s. In 1968, Tony suffered a heart attack behind the bar and died instantly. It was a known habit of Tony to leave the cash drawer open with neatly stacked coins.

After his death, sometimes when a bartender blindly tossed coins into the drawer and slammed it shut, he would look again to see the drawer open with the coins stacked neatly.

Sightings of Tony playing poker by himself in the corner — a habit he had when he was alive — have also been reported by staff and patrons. One thing that Loyd Auerbach witnessed himself — and which shows Tony must have a sense of humour — was the jukebox playing “Spirits in the Material World” by The Police.

The Myrtles Plantation / Photo: Corey Ann

Thing is, when Loyd had a closer look at the jukebox, he saw that it wasn’t plugged in.You can read more about Tony’s antics at the Banta Inn here.

Haunting #3: Myrtles Plantation

Location: St. Francisville, Louisiana

Legend: The Myrtles Plantation has long been considered one of America’s most haunted places. Built in 1794, legend has it that at least 10 murders occurred there. More recent investigation has found proof that only one actually did — William Winter in 1871.

However, this is not to say that the property has not seen its fair share of death. Many of the past residents died of various causes, including Ruffin Grey Stirling — who was responsible for doubling the size of the original house — from “consumption.”

Although many of the legends that have made the property famous were ultimately found to be untrue, there is a consensus that the Myrtles Plantation is indeed haunted by restless spirits.

In 1987, a ghost of an elderly lady in a green turban was seen (and later photographed), children have been seen playing in the hallways and rooms, and a young girl was witnessed floating in front of the games room window, cupping her hands to her eyes to peer inside.

For a detailed history of the property and its hauntings, read this article at prairieghosts.com.

Haunting #4: Original Springs Hotel

Location: Okawville, Illinois

Legend: Like any good haunting, the Original Springs Hotel — built around mineral hot springs which have been used to cure all sorts of maladies — has been rocked by a history of death. Suicides, accidents, and illnesses have all claimed lives and it’s thought that these spirits still wander the property.

There have been reports of hearing strange whisperings, cold spots in bed, footsteps in the hallways, and presences felt to be watching. Most staff fear the second floor of the older wing after nightfall, at times hearing rumblings from locked, unused guestrooms.

Perhaps the strangest of all is the “woman in white” who has been seen wandering about and walking through closed doors.

Haunting #5: The Queen Mary

Location: Long Beach, California

Legend: The Queen Mary — ironically nicknamed “The Grey Ghost” during its service at sea — is perma-docked these days as a hotel and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Photo: jarvisphoto6

But between 1937 and 1967 it served as a transport ship during the war and also as a luxury liner. During its service, the ship witnessed 49 deaths on board (to various reasons).

Additionally, in 1942 the Queen Mary rammed into one of its escorts as it attempted to outmaneuver enemy ships. It left over 300 people in its wake to be eaten by sharks or die drowning, as it was under orders not to stop.

This ship is no stranger to death, and it is certainly no stranger to ghosts. Some of the apparitions said to haunt the ship are:

* John Henry, who was crushed to death trying to flee a fire. Today, knocks and bright lights have been seen near engine room 13 where he died.

* A little girl who broke her neck when the ship was rocked by a big wave while she was horsing around. She can be seen around the pool looking for her mommy or doll.

* The drowned victims from the crash. Sometimes strange pounding noises can be heard which are said to be them desperate to get on board.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Have you ever seen an apparition? Do you even believe in ghosts?

Tell us your stories below!

Photo: ricardo.martin

According to the Hotel Rosengarten website, this all-nude hotel in the Black Forest has postponed their opening indefinitely due to lack of investors. And though I haven’t been able to ascertain if the trial for nude flights booked with OssiUrlaub.de was successful or not, I can’t find anywhere to book a seat on one of their planes.

Despite the uncertainty of these two naked ventures, there is one thing for both Germans and naturists to look forward to: the opening next May of an 11-mile hiking trail through the Harz Mountains in northern Germany, catering to those who like to stomp around in the buff.

The nude hiking route will start in the village of Dankerode — at the campsite of Heinz Ludwig, the man responsible for organizing the route — and end at the Wippertal dam. Traditional clothed hikers are welcome on the trail, but there will be clear signage of what they may bump into.

Fair warning.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Gun shy? Read 10 Traveler’s Tips For Rocking a Nudist Beach.

Photo: pasotraspaso

Mumbai, India

When you add up the equation “cycling” + “urban tourism,” you often assume “= Europe.” After all, the continent is home to many of the world’s most bike friendly cities.

Photo: zedvox

Places like Mumbai are looking to change the equation.

As reported in this New York Times travel blog post, a company called Odati Adventures has put together a “Mumbai City Cycle Ride.”

The focus is on commonly overlooked attractions — fitting, for as any avid cyclist knows, two-wheeled travel opens up all kinds of experiences that get passed over by the car-bound.

Leisure cycling in Mumbai still can’t be considered safe, which is why the tours run early on Sunday mornings, when traffic is most manageable.

But who knows — a successful cycle tour program could rewrite the city’s relationship with the bike.

Blackpool, England

With London set to unveil a monumental Paris-esque bike-hire scheme next summer, you’d expect it to be U.K. bicycle tourism’s front-page news.

Not if Blackpool has anything to say about it.

Also inspired by Paris’s groundbreaking Vélib’ program, this seaside resort town of 140,000 is launching an on-street bicycle rental system that will count 500 bikes by next spring.

Tourists are the primary target of the initiative and will be able to rent for a daily fee of £8.

However, it’s hoped Blackpool residents — who apparently suffer from extremely low rates of adult exercise — will take advantage as well. Swipe cards will be made available to commuters, providing a free half hour’s ride and charging £1/hour after that.

Photo: mrhayata

Tokyo, Japan

The urban mass of greater Tokyo is tied together by one of the city’s busiest subway routes, the circular Yamanote line.

More than 3.5 million passengers use the line each day, and to complete a journey around the loop takes a little over an hour.

What does this have to do with bicycles?

The New York Times recently featured a story by Harris Salat on a wonderfully novel concept: tracing the path of the Yamanote on two wheels.

Salat rented his ride through Cool Bike and made a three-day tour out of the 21-mile route, stopping frequently to experience the teahouses, gardens, tofu shops, sumo parades, riverside paths — in short, the classic Tokyo juxtaposition of tradition and modernity — he passed along the way.

While not an organized cycle tourism “development,” per se, his account makes for a good read, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it inspired copycat tours.

Hey, I’m game.

Community Connection

Matador loves bikes. You could spend a whole day digging through our bicycle-related content. Here’s a start:

10 Long-Distance Bicycle Routes in the U.S.

6 Reasons to Go By Bike

And They Stoned Me: The Joy Of Cycling Ethiopia

How To Be Good (Better) Drivers and Cyclists

8 Quirky Bike Rides across the U.S.

Bicycling the Pacific Coast and into the Great Beyond

Everyone loves lakes. / Photo: magical-world

Lakes have a lot to offer: You get all the benefits of a refreshing body of water without having to worry about tides, currents, rapids, great whites, or that scummy coating of salt.

That must have been what the folks at the Brilliant Tips blog were thinking, anyway, when they published a snapshot of 10 Unique and Fascinating Lakes Around the World.

And Trips agrees. It’s time to bigup the world’s lakes, and here are some picks from the Brilliant Tips piece to get us started:

Photo: gramz

Volcanic views

Two from the list fall into this category.

First we have Guatemala’s Lago de Atitlán, with a trio of volcanoes flanking its southern shore. A series of Mayan villages also ring the water.

And then there’s Taal Lake, on the Philippine’s main island of Luzon. An active volcano rises up from an island in the middle of the lake, and within the volcano’s crater is yet another lake, which Wikipedia describes as “the world’s largest lake on an island in a lake on an island.”
Ya follow?

Most flamingos

Tourists aren’t the only ones who can appreciate lakes. There may be as many as one million flamingos in Kenya’s Lake Nakuru at any given time, attracted by the water’s abundant algae.

Photo: caffeinated Kit

The otherworldly

Spotted Lake, in Klikuk, British Columbia, gets its double-take texture from the soup of minerals found in its water and the peculiarities of local evaporation processes.

It’s visible from a pull-off on Highway 3, just a 10-minute drive north of the Washington border — truly an alien landscape.

World’s deepest

That would be Baikal, reaching depths of 1,642 meters (5,400 feet). It’s also the world’s oldest.

The crescent blade of a lake is located in southeastern Russia and is a good choice for breaking up your Trans-Siberian rail journey.

Most floaty

The Dead Sea, on the borders of Jordan, Israel, and the West Bank, is actually a giant salt lake. It also marks the point of lowest elevation on Earth’s surface (422 meters/1,385 feet below sea level).

And people like to float in it.

Photo: auntjojo

Others?

Lake Titicaca would be an obvious addition to the list.

It’s giant, super high (one of the highest navigable in the world), and home to a collection of artificial islands made from reeds that people live on.

Oregon’s Crater Lake is another standout, with its great depth and remarkably clear waters.

Any more? What’s the most memorable lake you’ve visited, and what makes it unique? Let us know in the comments.

Photo: papalars

America’s one big place, and while the following destinations aren’t necessarily carbon copies of the big-name international draws, approached with the right attitude these one-of-a-kind sights might just tide you over till your bank account starts cooperating.

Cliff Palace: Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

You’ve imagined yourself riding up to Petra with your Indiana Jones hat on. Don’t lie.

Photo: ..lauren..

There’s something truly majestic about structures carved into rock; fortunately for Americans the Southwest is an archaeological playground, and a cheap one at that.

You’ll need a park ranger escort when visiting this particular site, which stays open just long enough to let you glimpse the dusk light creeping into the kivas. You might also catch a black bear, coyote, or mountain lion on the hiking trails.

It’s even rumored Spielberg intended to film here but met with objection from local tribes — so have at it, Indy.

That British Feeling: Philadelphia City Hall, Pennsylvania

There’s something about the Palace of Westminster that makes you want to eat a scone and conquer the world.

Photo: SnapsterMax

Funny thing is, the city halls of many ‘Thirteen Colonies’-era locales tend to possess a similar architecture — Philly’s is by no means an exception.

It even has a clock tower reminiscent of Big Ben, and if you get bell withdrawal you can pay a visit to America’s most famous, resting nearby: the cracked Liberty Bell.

Still missing an Abbey? Head across the street to the impressive Grand Lodge Temple, the center of the city’s Freemasonry.

Pyramids: Moundville Archaeological Park, Alabama

Given the heaps of theories regarding the placement of the Pyramids of Giza, it’s not surprising historians and archaeologists are also fascinated by these dozens of flat mounds scattered in geometric patters — remnants of the mysterious Mississippian culture of almost a thousand years ago.

The nearby museum is currently being renovated, but if you enjoy the whole mound thing then do yourself a favor and check out the UNESCO site of Cahokia in Illinois, which has similar features and is over ten times as big.

Photo: SF Brit

Gothic Cathedral: San Francisco, California

You can check off both French and Italian artistry with a visit to the Gothic Revival Grace Cathedral and its two replicas: the Gates of Paradise that face the Duomo in Florence and the labyrinth in Chartres Cathedral.

You might even feel the hunch creep up your back at the sight of the towering stained glass — especially the intricate Twenty-Third Psalm window.

The all-male choir gives fantastic performances in December, and San Francisco native Ansel Adams’ take on the cathedral’s angles can sometimes be caught in real-life display inside.

Ancient City: Old Oraibi, Arizona

What’s better than the abandoned cityscapes of Angkor Wat or Machu Picchu? How about one that’s still in use — just a few hours east of the Grand Canyon is one of the oldest continually occupied settlements in the U.S.

Even more incentive to make it here: the Hopi residents may not allow photos of the site, but they’re incredibly warm to visitors.

Stone Sculptures: Mt. Rushmore, South Dakota

These carvings may not be as old as those at Abu Simbel, but they sure are higher up.

The four political giants make for an inspiring visit, and the best part is you don’t have to worry about that temperamental police escort through the windy desert. The light hits Teddy, Tommy, Georgie, and Abe quite well at almost any time of day.

Additionally, you can get your Cold War history fix at a genuine Minutemen Missile facility less than two hours south — they even have a “Self-Guided Cell Phone Tour” for all you DIY-ers.

Photo: Hot Rod Homepage

Gladiatorial Venue: Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, California

Brawls between adrenaline-charged super-huge men? A roaring crowd chanting for unnecessary violence?

Please your inner gladiator and attend a football game here between USC and UCLA.

The stadium’s hosted the Superbowl, the World Series, and the Summer Olympics twice. Oh, and it can seat just under 100,000 people — twice as many as Rome’s Colosseum.

Maximus would have made one hell of a tight end.

Futuristic Pinnacle: Seattle Space Needle, Washington

No photo of Shanghai is complete without the Oriental Pearl Tower across from the Bund, and the same could be said of this Seattle icon. Both have revolving restaurants and killer views. Besides, the 45 million visitors since its opening can’t be wrong.

Trekkies and Browncoats might also get a kick out of the science fiction museum right there at the Seattle Center.

Volcanic Anomaly: Crater Lake, Oregon

Photo: glennwilliamspdx

There are no whitewashed towns clinging to its cliffs, but if a volcanic caldera like Santorini is what you’re after, try this crazy puddle.

With no sources in or out, the water is some of the purest and clearest in the world.

In the wintertime, the snow around the rim glistens. You can warm yourself up in the Rim Village Cafe — and you won’t find a better view.

Community Connection

If the travel bug is still biting after you check out these American alternatives, you might be interested in reading about Why You Should Travel During The Global Recession and How To Travel The World For Free (Seriously).

Photo: vintage_queen

For hours we passed the billboards: “The Thing? The mystery of the desert” and “The Thing? What is it?” and finally, when my friend Leigh and I arrived at the exit in the middle of Arizona off Interstate 10, curiosity had gotten the better of us. We sheepishly handed over the $1 entry fee and began a strange and entertaining walk through my first roadside attraction.

If you have the time and a sense of humor, here are 10 bemusing, tacky roadside attractions, all easily accessible from interstates, to check out on your next American road trip.

The Thing?, Dragoon, AZ

Some 250 signs for 200 miles along I-10 through the empty Texas desert invite you to visit “The Thing?” 40 miles outside of Tucson.

Jolly Green Giant / Photo: greefus gone

The $1 admission buys you access to a bizarre collection of exhibits leading up to “The Thing” itself, including a Rolls-Royce that supposedly belonged to Hitler and a very homemade display of wood carvings depicting “ancient methods of torture.”

The identity of “The Thing?” Sorry, you’ll have to find out for yourself.

Wall Drug Store, Wall, SD

This historic tourist attraction breaks up the drive across South Dakota on I-90. Like “The Thing?,” it also entices would-be visitors with billboards beginning hundreds of miles away.

Wall Drug’s mall employs nearly one-third of the town and is famous for its huge jackalope, mechanical people, and 80-foot dinosaur next to the interstate.

Blue Whale, Catoosa, OK

The 80-foot cement whale is a bizarre anniversary gift that can be seen from former Route 66 next to its pond. It’s easily accessible from I-44 outside of Tulsa.

Visitors can actually walk into the mouth of the giant sculpture.

Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo, TX

Photo: fPat

Created in 1974 by members of the art group Ant Farm, this installation involves 10 spray-painted Cadillacs emerging from the ground tail-end up.

It’s visible from I-40 but if you plan to stop, bring a can of spray paint; Ant Farm encourages visitors to add to the artwork.

Jolly Green Giant, Blue Earth, MN

This 55-foot statue welcomes visitors to Blue Earth at the midpoint of I-90 in Minnesota.

The Giant commemorates the town’s link to the Green Giant Company — once located there and formerly called the Blue Earth Canning Company.

Calico Ghost Town, Yermo, CA

Outside of Barstow on I-15, this former silver mining town is now a tourist attraction.

There are several options for entertainment, including mine tours, gunfight shows, and gold panning. Only five original buildings exist today; the rest are re-creations.

The Douglas Jackalope, Douglas, WY

Curiously, there’s more than one roadside attraction involving a jackalope. Douglas has one because a resident of the small town dreamed up the imaginary creature in the 1930s.

You can access the town and its statue off of I-25.

Photo: loyaldefender2004

Museum of Natural and Other Curiosities, Hartford, CT

In downtown Hartford, this museum houses a strange collection of taxidermic items, including exotic birds, an eight-foot alligator, a two-headed pig, and a two-headed calf.

The House of Mystery and the Oregon Vortex, Gold Hill, OR

Off of I-5 in Oregon, this attraction claims to be a “whirlpool of force” where strange things happen.

The vortex apparently defies the laws of physics: balls roll uphill, and people appear shorter as they approach you or taller as they walk away.

The Enchanted Highway, ND

Turn off I-94 at Gladstone, North Dakota, for 32 miles of weird, oversized art installations including a tin family, the world’s largest grasshopper, and a flock of pheasants with a 40-foot-tall, 70-foot-long rooster.

And More…

To find other curious roadside attractions on your next road trip, visit the website of Roadside America.

Community Connection

Most of the above attractions qualify as cheap entertainment. To learn how to save on other aspects of your trip, make sure to read 8 Ways to Save Money on a U.S. Cross-Country Road Trip.

Photo: Marcel Masferrer Pascual

For two days (this year October 3-4), Taybeh is host to Palestine’s Oktoberfest — a celebration of Palestinian music, culture, and…well, beer. Taybeh is a Christian village in the West Bank, 35 kms north of Jerusalem and home to the now international Taybeh Brewery.

Wha…who…how?

The Taybeh Brewery was founded in 1994 by Nadim Khoury, who first began brewing his own suds in the late ’70s while studying at Boston’s Hellenic College. Besides the region’s Jewish-Arab conflict, Mr. Khoury also had to contend with the fact that 95% of his potential customers were Muslim, a faith that prohibits alcohol consumption.

Obviously, the quality speaks for itself. Today, Taybeh beer is brewed under license in Germany (it conforms to the purity law 1516) for the European market. In Japan, the brew has a loyal following and you can even find it in Jerusalem on tap at some bars.

Fifth edition

This year’s Okotoberfest is the fifth annual event and one that brings together Israelis and Palestinians as well as international tourists. Tens of thousands partake in the festival, where you can eat local foods and buy products like olive oil, honey, and cakes as well as crafts made by local artisans.

If you’re in Jerusalem or Tel Aviv at the time, you can organize a tour to Taybeh for both days of the festival. Complimentary tours of the brewery are also given. Call ahead if you’re in a large group (02-289-8868).

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For some reading on this conflicted region, check out Waging Peace: Israeli Mother and Palestinian Soldier Unite and Bullets and Backpackers: Political Tourism Hits the West Bank.

If you’re more keen on the traditional Oktoberfest in Munich, make sure you read A First Timer’s Guide to Oktoberfest.

Photo above: Vladimír Tóth, Feature photo: gluemoon

Unexpected Effects

As it turns out, there are times when armed conflict benefits the environment. Just look at Korea’s DMZ, where wildlife thrives in the 4km-wide strip of no man’s land that divides the peninsula.

Something similar occurred along the infamous Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified border that cut for thousands of kilometers through Central Europe, demarcating East and West. 1,400 of those kilometers were in Germany.

While armed guards held vigil, nature flourished. In 1989 the border came down, but the ecosystem that had grown up around it remained. It’s now home to 600 of the region’s threatened animal and plant species, from rare mosses to endangered birds and wild cats.

Redefining the Past

The grünes band — or green belt — as of yet isn’t monitored by a single entity. Rather, it’s being managed by groups in charge of the natural preservation of the different regions it passes through.

Photo: Shyald

Guided and solo trekking options are now attracting visitors. Of course, a nice dose of history is mixed in, with sections of fence, watchtowers, and even old East Germany barracks (now converted into tourist accommodations) still standing.

But just as the Iron Curtain extended far beyond the borders of Germany, so too does the vision of the project.

The organization European Green Belt hopes to turn the entire former border route — from the north of Finland to Greece — into one giant nature preserve.

Cyclists are also on the case, working section by section to create the 4,225-mile Iron Curtain Trail. Some segments are already open, as reported recently in The New York Times.

Preservation won’t be easy. Landowners and developers are understandably eager to take advantage of the empty land.

But great potential exists to transform the significance of the Iron Curtain from oppression and conflict to rejuvenation and new beginnings.

Community Connection

Have you been to the Iron Curtain green belt? If so, we’d love to hear about it in the comments.

For other great routes to explore, check out these Trips titles:

Photo Essay: The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail

How To Trek The Inca Trail

A-OK Again on the Kokoda Trail

Great Routes Through the Maya Trail

Umayyad mosque in Damascus / Photo: loufi

Vancouver, British Columbia: first settled by Europeans in 1862. This was my history growing up. I got married in a “historic heritage” home that dates back to the late 19th century.

When I started traveling around Europe I began to get more of a sense of the history of civilization: the ancient Roman aqueducts, cathedrals, and coliseums. Traveling in China showed me the rich history of the past millenniums through the different dynasties’ temples, fortifications, and buildings.

The farther back we go, the more abstract and difficult it is to comprehend life and civilization. But modern humans have been around for 200,000 years. And some cities that date back as far as 12,000 years ago are still inhabited today.

Plovdiv / Photo: Klearchos Kapoutsis

WebUrbanist.com recently published an article titled Senior City-zens which features the 10 oldest cities on the planet that are still alive and kickin’.

The list includes:

1. Damascus, Syria (12,000 years)
2. Jericho, West Bank (11,000)
3. Susa, Iran (10,000)
4. Plovdiv, Bulgaria (9000)
5. Jerusalem, [Israel] (5000)
6. Tyre, Lebanon (6000)
7. Athens, Greece (3400)
8. Lisbon, Portugal (3200)
9. Varanasi, India (3000)
10. Cholula, Mexico (2200)

But even these are in dispute as many commenters have noted other still-inhabited ancient cities. The cave dwellings of Matera are suspected to be some of the first human settlements in Italy, and Fodor’s says:

Matera is the only place in the world where people can boast to be still living in the same houses of their ancestors of 9,000 years ago.

A lack of East Asian cities and the omission of Byblos, Lebanon also raised some readers’ hackles. Some passionate Spaniards point out that Cadiz is in fact the most ancient city in Western Europe (and not Lisbon) — a claim that Wikipedia backs.

Whatever the case, it’s a fascinating list and worthy of much thought for the times these cities have seen over the years.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Unfortunate incidents can empty a place in a heartbeat or over the span of decades. These abandoned cities weren’t able to hold on to their residents like those listed above.

Old cities like these, when mixed with modern life, can offer some very interesting experiences. If you’ve had some yourself, join the discussion over at What Is Your Most Surreal Travel Experience?

Photo: diametrik

Walking the concrete canyons of Manhattan, it’s easy to forget you’re on an island. And with multi-lane highways encircling the borough, it can be a challenge to enjoy the scenery and history of New York Harbor — unless you take to the water.

The iconic orange Staten Island Ferry isn’t the only way. Here are seven more.

Photo: bettyx1138

1. Governors Island

This patch of green is just a seven minute ferry ride from the southernmost tip of Manhattan and has been a native American fishing ground, U.S. Coast Guard base, site of a meeting between Reagan and Gorbachev and, now, a public park and National Monument administered by the National Park Service.

In addition to military history and blissful quiet — only a handful of vehicles are allowed on Governors Island — you’ll also find special events throughout the season, which this year runs until October 11. The best part about the island? The ferry and admission are free!

2. Statue of Liberty

On July 4, the famed statue’s crown was re-opened to tourists, having been closed since the September 11 attacks. While getting tickets for the 146-step climb is a necessity, it also requires some advance planning, as demand since the opening has been high.

A check on July 15 didn’t turn up space until mid-October. Admission: $12.

3. Water Taxi Beach

New York’s original fake beach is across the East River from Manhattan and, like so many things in Queens, is all about food and drink. Viewing the sunset over the New York skyline is much better with a burger in one hand and a beer in the other.

Water Taxi Beach / Photo: robotpolisher

On Fridays in July and August, you can even score a special BBQ chicken spread. Bring friends. Depending on when you go, ferries to Water Taxi Beach are $4.50, $20 (for a full-day ferry pass) or free.

4. Riverside Park

While most of Manhattan is ringed by highways, urban planner Frederick Law Olmsted designed this section of the Upper West Side to work with the water. Riverside Park stretches from 72nd to 158th Street, drawing bikers, joggers and, boat buffs.

The 79th Street Boat Basin is home to skippers smart enough to avoid NYC rents by living aboard.

5. City Island

Far from the hustle of New York but still part of the city, this New England-y enclave is the last thing you’d think of as metropolitan. But it’s worth the long haul to gorge on seafood while watching yachts cruise by. Take the no. 6 train and then the Bx29 bus to get there.

Photo: calamity_sal

Johnny’s Reef Restaurant at the south of the island has an old-school vibe that makes for great photos…and piles of seafood, of course. Visiting is free, but the fried clams will cost you.

6. Free Kayaking

Sporty locals have been passing around a secret for years: The New York City Downtown Boathouse will loan you a kayak and let you paddle around the Hudson for free. More serious boaters might score a spot on a three-hour tour, but since you can’t sign up ahead of time, availability depends on how many others show up.

7. Sailing school

If the above six seem too easy for you, the Manhattan Sailing School offers ASA basic keelboat certification over three days out of the North Cove in Battery Park City.

You’ll spend the first evening learning what makes sailboats go and the next two days trimming jibs and taking the helm of a J/24 with three other students and an instructor. Reservations are essential. $690.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For some inspiration for number 7 above, have a read of Jessica Watson, 16, Youngest Person to Sail Around the World Solo.

Need a mini-break from the Big Apple? Here are the 5 Best Hudson River Valley Day Trips.

If you like the water, Matador’s got a slew of great info in these articles: Boating Big Sky: Montana’s Classic River Trips and Take Me to the River: 8 Simple Steps for Getting into Whitewater Paddling.

Photo: dsearls

For those who seek out special places only the locals know about, geocaching is the perfect activity. If you’re not familiar with this modern-day treasure hunt, check out the official website, or let Matador take you to school with Geocaching 101.

People who hide the caches almost always live in the area, and they tend to choose spots that are special to them and will offer something memorable to the geocacher: a hidden viewpoint, a quiet meadow, an overlooked urban nook.

If you’re traveling around Portugal, you can browse a database of caches using the geocaching site. Or, to make your life a bit easier, follow this list of the top 6 caches in the country.

1. The End of the World [Sagres] – GC12CRJ

Photo: Selma90

To find this cache, you’ll have to make your way to Cabo de São Vicente, in Sagres, the southwestern-most point in Europe.

Its attraction as “the end of the world” means there are a lot of “muggles” around at all times. Retrieving the cache from its secret location won’t be an easy task.

I suggest arriving at sunset to enjoy the ocean view.

2. Last Home of Gertrude [Mafra] – GC54DD

I lived about 50 km from here for 23 years and was still stunned by the discovery of the abandoned village of Broas while searching for this cache.

The village, sitting on top of a hill in the outskirts of Lisbon, has been empty for over three decades. To get to it, you’ll need to do a bit of uphill walking, but the reward is worth it. You can stroll the village streets and even poke around the old houses.

You won’t find Broas marked on a map (not even a military one), and if you ask most people in Lisbon they likely won’t know it exists.

3. The Treasure Island [Abrantes] – GC9F38

Photo: Rui Ornelas

Almourol is a little island 50+ km north of Lisbon in the middle of the Tagus River, barely big enough for the castle that was built on it back in the 12th century.

What better setting for a treasure hunt?

The boat ride from Vila Nova da Barquinha will run you a euro or two, but entrance to the castle is free of charge.

4. The Jewell of Sapphire – GCED4F

If you thought the Last Home of Gertrude was cool, you’re gonna love the Jewell of Sapphire. The search for this geocache will lead you to an abandoned village called Safira, in the Alentejo.

After signing the cache logbook, take your time to marvel at the house ruins, the old cemetery, and the Church of Our Lady of Sapphire, built in the 15th century. The church was badly damaged by the great earthquake of 1755, restored in 1874 and again in 1903.

5. O Naufrágio do San Pedro de Alcantara [Peniche] – GCX69C

Back in the 18th century, a Spanish warship named San Pedro de Alcantara, overloaded with silver, copper, and gold, hit the rocks of Peniche. It sank immediately.

Not a lot of people know this historical tidbit, and the sight sees next to no visitors. Perhaps that’s what makes it so special and earns it a spot on this list.

6. Linhas de Torres – Forte da Aguieira [V. F. Xira] – GCMK7A

Photo: Caveman 92223

Not too far west of the capital you’ll find Forte da Aguieira, the remains of a fortification charged with protecting Lisbon during the third French invasion in the 19th century.

A visit at sunset is rewarded with a commanding view of the Tagus River and the city of Lisbon in the distance. You can almost see French soldiers marching over the horizon.

There’s a whole series of caches related to this long fortified structure — don’t stop with this one!

Community Connection

If you’re just getting into geocaching and don’t yet have a GPS receiver, check out our review of 5 Handheld GPS Receivers.

Destinations

Community Connection to Portugal

Or, better yet, connect with these Matador community members, each of whom is fired up on geocaching:

Darren Alff
imagejin
GeoMan3

You’ll also find some great resources on Portugal here at Matador. Make sure not to miss Beyond Lisbon and Algarve: Exploring the Lesser Known Portugal and Eat, Pray, Love in Portugal.

Surfers will want to check out Ericeira: Portugal’s Surf Mecca and Surfers’ Guide to the Algarve Coast, Portugal.

Photo: André Brugiroux

Somewhere between 189 and 217 nautical miles off the coast of Yemen (depending on your source of information), and some 130 off the coast of Somalia, like a tiny, glittering tongue-stud in the gaping maw of the Gulf of Aden, lies the legendary island of Socotra (Suquṭra), ancient source of ambergris, dragon’s blood, frankincense, and myrrh.

Now an International Biosphere Reserve, it’s been called a Wonder Land, the Galapagos of the Indian Ocean, and one of The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth.

“It is one of those unique places in the world,” says Spanish toptrotter Jorge Sanchez, founder of the well-respected Travelers Exploits Club.

And it has a long and distinguished history of being very hard to get to.

By Sea

With two annual monsoons (southwest from June-October and northeast from April-May), no natural harbor, not much anchorage to speak of, and a flourishing offshore piracy business, arrival by sea has always been problematic.

Photo: NASA

Thomas the Apostle is said to have been shipwrecked here sometime in the first century A.D., on his way to or from India. They say he built a church from the wreckage.

Marco Polo managed a safe landing, apparently, but noted the abundance of corsairs selling booty to the locals. For the generally uncooperative weather he squarely blamed the latter: a naked people he described as “the most skilful enchanters in the world.” He continues,

[I]f a ship is proceeding full sail with a favourable wind, they raise a contrary one, and oblige it to return. They can make it blow from any quarter they please, and cause either a dead calm or a violent tempest.

According to The Arabian Nights, Sinbad the Sailor made a brief call here on his fifth voyage, only to have his ship destroyed not by Socotran witchcraft but by a pair of huge, angry, possibly not entirely mythical birds-of-prey dropping boulders on it.

Birds of such description no longer factor among the 211 species on the Socotra Bird Checklist. And the last Socotran witchcraft trials are said to have been held in the 1970s. But the corsairs, as always well-equipped with the latest in contemporary weaponry and chutzpah, are still very much in business.

According to Alan Lucas’ classic Red Sea and Indian Ocean Cruising Guide, “vessels have been grappled and towed into shore for looting.” Yachtsmen are advised to give the archipelago as wide a berth as possible.

Several local fishermen have been murdered in the last seven months, or have had their boats or engines taken out from under them at gunpoint. A freighter bound for Socotra with 2,000 tons of diesel fuel was taken by Somali pirates and held for ransom between January and April of this year, causing a shortage of electricity on the island.

The silver lining, for diving enthusiasts, is an unparalleled underwater landscape of sunken vessels waiting to be explored.

By Air

Bill Altaffer, of Expedition Photo Travel in San Diego, was among the first tourists to Socotra after a new airstrip was built in 1999. It almost didn’t happen for him.

“We got on a plane in Sana’a,” he recalls.

It was a crummy plane, a Yemen Air piece of shit, and as we’re about to lift off there’s this big bang and flames shoot out of the engine.

Photo: Sotti

Altaffer’s been to every country in the world, plus 300 island groups, disputed areas, territories, and colonies. He’s been to both poles. He’s surfed off every continent and skied on six. The dude was the first American to surf the legendary Queenscliff bombora off Manly Beach in Sydney (in 1962).

He wasn’t about to let a little equipment failure get in the way of his pioneering visit to what he describes as “an island full of blond people who are descendants of Alexander the Great.”

If it had come to it, he’d have gone through Aden, where weeks earlier the USS Cole had docked to a warm welcome of Al Qaeda-brand C-4 explosives. As it turned out, Yemenia found another plane in somewhat better condition.

“The easiest way from the U.S. is through Dubai on Emirates,” says Charles Veley, of San Francisco, who by his own count is The World’s Most Traveled Man.

If you don’t want to stop in Dubai, you should continue on to Sana’a on Emirates. Transiting to Yemenia (last time I did it) involves a terminal change and isn’t fun.

At age 44, Veley has been to 710 “countries, territories, autonomous regions, enclaves, geographically separated island groups, and major states and provinces.” When he gets to 762 he figures he’ll have been “everywhere” — that is, unless the number goes up before he gets there.

Charles Veley on Socotra

He hit Socotra early on December 31, 2004, back when there was only one flight a week, “so the choice was whether to turn around the same day or stay 7 days.”

Veley stayed for a couple of hours, found the landscape “remarkable and otherworldly,” and the people “super-friendly — much friendlier than on the mainland,” then got back on the plane in time to make a giant New Year’s Eve party and Sean Paul concert at the Sheraton in Addis Ababa.

When he goes back to Socotra, he says, he’ll spend 3-5 days and treat it “like a camping trip, because the hotels are basic and in the only town [Hadibo], and the scenery is far out of town.”

Until recently, Yemenia (Yemen National Airways) was the only airline with semi-regular service to Socotra (SCT). For a while it was almost daily, out of both Sana’a and Aden, through Riyan (RIY) at Al Mukalla.

Then, what with one of its dozen or so planes dropping into the ocean, and all attendant and ongoing international scrutiny of maintenance habits and such, Yemenia seems to have cancelled some of its domestic schedule.

Photo: Sotti

For now anyway, local upstart Felix Airways has stepped into the void, with its four Canadian Bombardier CRJ700s (and four more on order) and five scheduled round-trip flights weekly between Riyan and Socotra (Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday).

Connect to Riyan via Sana’a (SAH) or Aden (ADE). Online booking is “coming soon.”

In the meantime, try contacting their office at the Sana’a airport on 967-1-565656, or by email at callcenter@felixairways.com.

And let us know how it goes!

Rules, Regs & Red Flags

For the latest travel advisories, piracy and terrorism updates, and general visa information, check the U.S. State Department’s oft-updated Yemen Page.

Get your visa beforehand in Washington, says Veley: “Supposedly they are available on arrival, but they’re not very forthcoming at the window in the Sana’a airport.”

General Notes/Tips from Jorge Sanchez

You can hitch hike from the airport to Hadibo: the first car will give you a ride. In Hadibo there are several hotels, you can bargain for the price. The first one is where all tourists meet, Germans, Italians, and the rest. They organize trips, excursions, rent Land Rovers, etc. I went further downtown and found a nice hotel, cheap, with shower. But several nights I slept à la belle etoile, on the beach. People brought us mattresses to sleep on the sand.

Photo: Boris Khvostichenko

Fish is good and cheap, as well as goats.

Transport is easy: just stop any pick-up and negotiate a price for the highlights of the island, especially the dragon’s blood trees and the oasis in the middle of the island, it’s all very cheap.

Learn some Arabic, it’s very useful in negotiating prices.

The only inconvenience is that beers are forbidden, and all alcohol, so it’s water or Coca Cola. Still, you will not regret visiting Socotra!

Community Connection

Have you been to Socotra? We would LOVE to hear from you. Share your experiences in the comments!

For more otherworldly scenes, be sure to check out Photo Essay: The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth.

Get the Bond experience at these destinations without having to give up your identity:

1. Location: British SIS Headquarters, Vauxhall, London
Better known as: MI6 Headquarters

Photo: Jim Bowen

The real-life headquarters of the British Secret Service has been Bond’s headquarters many times over, making appearances in Goldeneye, The World is Not Enough, and Die Another Day.

The £135,000,000 building is in Vauxhall, England, and much of its design specifications remain classified due to the security measures in place to protect it. You can’t blame them: it was badly damaged in September of 2000 after being struck by a rocket attack.

Judging from their history of innovations, like Bond’s mechanical alligator in Octopussy, they’re always on top of their security game.

2. Location: Piz Gloria, Schilthorn, Switzerland
Better known as: Ernst Blofeld’s headquarters

Photo: Paul Stephenson

From England, we’ll take the world’s longest aerial cable-car system to the summit at Schlithorn in the Swiss Alps, where the iconic villain Ernst Blofeld and his creepy cat made their hideout  in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Blofeld has since fled the area, but today you’ll find one of the world’s first and tallest revolving restaurants, Piz Gloria, at 2,970m (9,744ft).

At the summit, the sight of more than 200 mountain peaks and glaciers is your revolving backdrop as you sip your shaken martini from the Bond Bar that pays homage to its Hollywood doppelganger. In winter the Schilthorn hosts the start of the world’s longest downhill ski race, the Inferno, that spans 16 kilometers and attracts more than 1,800 competitors.

3. Location: Jökulsárlón, Iceland
Better known as: Site of Bond’s icy car chase in Die Another Day, among other appearances

Photo: Ollografik

The movie’s title may not have been referring to the otherworldly ice lagoons in Jökulsárlón, but this destination featured in the opening scene of A View to Kill certainly feels like a site for Armageddon. The stillness of the river and its icy lillypads invokes the spirit of the spot’s former glacial giants that have since melted, leaving traces of their majesty in the jagged, black-and-white ice formations.

Despite its remote locale, Bond has visited Jökulsárlón a number of times, most famously in Die Another Day (feat. above) where a car chase across the ice lagoon in an Aston Martin brought him to the Ice Palace.

4. Location: Fontainebleau Hotel, Miami Beach, FL
Better known as: Setting for “man talk” in Goldfinger

Photo: Lumiere

The Fountainebleau is what James Bond would be if he died and was reincarnated as a ridiculously ballin’ beach resort. Stylish yet dignified. Modern yet timeless. Glamorous yet mysterious. These paradoxes of the Bond persona are the essence of the Fontainebleau: the snobbiest French-named hotel in America with more celebrities, style, and reputation than any other.

Staying at the Fontainebleau is a trip in itself. Facing the Atlantic, the 1504-room resort just added two new towers, 11 restaurants and lounges, a 40,000-square-foot spa, and its signature free-form pool that’s about as big as a football field. Why would Bond stay anywhere else?

5. Location: Ko Tapu, Phang Nga Bay, Thailand
Better known as: Scaramanga’s secret island; James Bond Island

Photo: Rene Ehrhardt

Ever since The Man With the Golden Gun premiered, the sixty-foot monolith of Ko Tapu, or James Bond Island, has been one of the main tourist draws of Ao Phang Nga National Park. Day tours run from Phuket.

There isn’t much to do around James Bond Island. You could start a secret hideaway in case you ever become a villainous assassin, but it’s already been done. You’re better off touring the other attractions this otherworldly bay has to offer.

6. Location: Pão de Açúcar, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Better known as: Backdrop for Bond’s cable-car fight with Jaws

Photo: Alicia Nijdam

Typically, you’re supposed to ride inside the cable car on the way up to Sugarloaf, but if you’re going for the full Bond experience you can’t expect to get around like a normal person. Then again, if you’re really going to travel like Bond you’ve got to bring along a galpal with the last name “Goodhead.” Classy, James.

If watching Moonraker turned you off of the cable car, Rio’s 1,300ft Sugarloaf offers plenty of great climbing, as do the surrounding mountains of Morro da Babilônia and Morro da Urca. Together, they form one of the largest urban climbing areas in the world, with more than 270 routes.

7. Location: Holy Trinity Monastery, Meteora, Greece
Better known as: Kristatos’s hideout in For Your Eyes Only

Photo: Mike G. K.

Sometime around 1000 A.D., a bunch of hermits in Thessaly, Greece decided they wanted out of their caves, and set out to build a new home for their life of prayer and meditation.  The best idea they could come up with was building twenty or so massive monasteries on top of extremely tall and narrow pillars.  While not in the most convenient location, the Eastern Orthodox monasteries of Meteora are some of the most impressive combinations of man-made and natural architecture.

To get there, you can take a bus from Ioannina, Trikala, Thessaloniki, or Athens — or you can go Bond style and just use your bare hands.  However, be sure to clean up before checking out the monasteries, because they’ll kick you out if you’re wearing shorts or sleeveless shirts.  Besides, if you’re rolling with Bond, you roll in style.

8. Location: Rock of Gibraltar, Southern Spain
Better known as: Site of Bond’s descent in The Living Daylights

Photo: Wikimedia Commons

At the top of the famous Rock of Gibraltar off the coast of Spain, the British (who own the island) built an RAF airbase that the producers of The Living Daylights wanted to use for the film.  The problem was, it didn’t “look military enough,” so fake barbed wire, security signs, and other defense accouterments were added to convince the audience that James Bond only messes around in top-level security clearance areas.

For centuries, the Rock has been an impenetrable stronghold during wartime, and has never even been close to being captured, allowing for the historical simile, “strong as the Rock of Gibraltar.” Today, you can visit as a tourist and take in the local flora and fauna, the historical landmarks (like the first Neanderthal skull), or make like a real Bond and just head to the casino.

9. Location: Lake Palace, Udaipur, India
Better known as: Bond’s hotel in Octopussy

Photo: View From the Saddle

As we all know, when Bond travels, he only stays at the best.  And by the best, I mean a 350-year-old palace-turned-hotel on a tiny slab of granite floating in the middle of a lake.  In Udaipur’s Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace sits at a distance from the rest of the city, and its pristine white walls seem to glow amidst the rest of the sandblasted landscape.

Community Connection

Movie buffs won’t want to miss these other Matador titles:

The 20 Most Memorable Travel Films (That Aren’t Really About Travel)

Ten Great Film Festivals And One Stinkarooni

The Red Pill: 10 Films Guaranteed To Blow Your Mind

25 Movies That Literally Moved Us (According To Budget Travel)

Also, make sure to check out Matador contributing editor Eva Holland’s blog Not Coming to a Theater Near You.

Great American Beer Festival, Denver / Photo: deege@fermentarium.com

Brewery Tours

A brewery tour will show you the care and craft that goes into beer production, and most breweries offer them for free.

Photo: Bernt Rostad

Try the short but informative free tour at Great Divide, often given by one of the brewers themselves.

Afterwards, enjoy free samples of award-winning beers like Saint Bridget’s Porter and Hercules Double IPA in the small tasting room. If your visit coincides with happy hour (4-7pm, Monday-Friday), you’ll also get discounts on pints, which normally cost $4-$5 each.

The smaller city of Boulder sits in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, 35 miles north of Denver, and a tour of father-and-son-run Avery Brewing is worth the short drive. Make sure to toss back an India Pale Ale or Out of Bounds Stout once your tour’s over.

If you need a snack to go with your beer, try a gyro from the Pearl Street Gyro Cart, which sets up shop in the Tap Room. A pint’s just two bucks with any gyro.

The largest of Colorado’s breweries, Coors, is found between Denver and Boulder. For Fat Tire fans, New Belgium Brewing Company lies farther up the road in Fort Collins.

Brew Pubs

With nearly 70 rotating beers on tap and many more in bottles, Denver’s Falling Rock Tap House is the place to sample to your heart’s content.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer quantity of taps lining the wall, but the friendly bartenders are happy to make recommendations and offer a taste to help you decide. The diverse menu is categorized by style and includes ales, ambers, lagers, IPAs, stouts, porters, and cask-conditioned beers from both local brewers and producers around the world.

If the 16-ounce curls sap your strength, Falling Rock has you covered with a bar menu featuring standard pub fare like wings and burgers.

Photo: mmckeay

Just off Pearl Street in Boulder is Mountain Sun Pub, offering more pub grub and the perfect beer sampler — six 6-ounces tastes of their award-winning brews for under $10.

For a few more options, head to Walnut Brewery, Boulder’s first brewpub. Indulge in anything from giant soft pretzels and thin-crust pizzas to fajitas and baby-back ribs along with a rotating selection of brewed-onsite beers like Devil’s Thumb Stout and Big Horn Bitter.

After dinner, walk a few blocks down to the Boulder Drafthouse, which hosts a variety of live music every night.

More Good Eats in Denver

Most of Denver’s bars and restaurants offer great happy hour deals on weekday nights and during certain weekend hours.

Photo: ChazWags

One of the best places for cheap happy hour eats is Dazzle, with nightly jazz performances. The $5 food menu includes items like fried calamari and creamy mac-and-cheese, and pulled-pork or salmon sliders are under two bucks each.

If the previous night’s exploits have left you a little rough around the edges, take a drive to Govnr’s Park for some hair of the dog. On Saturdays, brunch is buy one, get one free and mimosas are bottomless from 10am-2pm.

Or, if you’re up early and raring to go, hightail it to Snooze, Denver’s best brunch spot, to beat the crowd. Soak up any leftover alcohol in your system with corned beef hash, steak and eggs benedict, or pineapple upside-down pancakes.

Frothy Festivals

True beer fanatics should plan their Denver visit around the Great American Beer Festival, held every September. Tickets cost around $50 and are good for four hours of sampling some of the 1,800 beers on tap from around the world.

The newer, less-crowded All Colorado Beer Festival goes down in Colorado Springs each November and serves up beers from over 70 Colorado breweries.

Alcohol-Free Exploits

Everyone needs a break from the bottle at some point (c’mon, admit it!). When it’s time for yours, give some of these more “wholesome” activities a go:

Photo: Herkie

* Art perusing at the Denver Art Museum
* Paradisaical bliss at the Denver Botanic Gardens
* Beer calorie management on a hike in Red Rocks Park (located halfway between Denver and Boulder)
* Rock climbing near Boulder at Eldorado Canyon
* More outdoors in Chautauqua Park, at the base of the Flatirons

Practicalities

To explore outside of downtown Denver you’ll need a car (but don’t even think about drinking and driving), so pick one up at the airport.

In town, budget travelers can check into the Melbourne International Hostel for as little as $16 a dorm bed ($39 for a private double). Or, score yourself an eco-friendly suite at the Queen Anne Bed and Breakfast for around $135 a night.

In Boulder, private doubles at the Boulder International Youth Hostel start at $50.

The Bradley Boulder Inn, located right off Pearl Street in downtown Boulder, gets a little swankier, with posh rooms for $200 and up. However, these include a wine and cheese hour, wireless internet, access to a fitness center, and a hearty breakfast. Plus, if you hit every watering hole in this article, you won’t even remember swiping your card at checkout.

Community Connection

Other beer-based content to be had on Matador includes Beer Quest 2008: The Search for America’s Best Microbrew, 20 Best Beer Towns in America, and The Top 20 Microbrews in America.

Also, make sure to check out Katie’s 10 Spots in Chicago for BYOB Dining and How to Drink on the Reykjavik Rúntur.

Photo above: Jen SFO-BCN, Feature photo: Perrimoon

Eats: La Cova Fumada

This nook is easy to miss. But don’t let the cigarette smoke and cooking fat fumes that waft from behind its backstreet brown doors intimidate you. La Cova Fumada is the best seafood tapas bar in Barcelona, where local dock workers and fishermen come to grab a quick snack and hurl good-natured insults at one another.

At lunchtime, the harassed waiter turns a deaf ear to any drink orders that don’t involve red wine and the female kitchen staff (who look as if they’ve been wrestling in olive oil) wipe sweat from their brows with the tea towels.

Photo: loremipsum

From their tiny workspace, they turn out plate after plate of crispy grilled sardines, succulent octopus, bacalao in tomato sauce, and the house specialty of patatas bombas — fried potato balls smothered in a fiery garlic and chili sauce.

There are no frills, no menus, no reservations, no credit cards, and no English-speaking staff. Consequently, prices are about half those charged on La Rambla.

Address: C/ Baluard 56 (no sign)
Tel: +34 932 214 061
Hours: Monday to Friday 9am-3:30pm, Thursday and Friday 6pm-8.30pm, Saturday 9am-1.30pm. Closed Sundays and throughout August.

Green space: Parc de Guinardó

Guess what — Gaudí’s Parc Güell isn’t the finest green space in the city. Okay, so it’s easy on the eye and studded with delightful architectural eccentricities, but unless you’re the first to sprint through the gates at 10am, all your photos will be full of strangers’ elbows.

Instead, take the number 28 bus from Plaza Catalunya and stay on until the last stop — even if helpful pensioners frantically try to shoo you off at Parc Güell. From the bus stop, follow the road to the end and you’ll be in Parc de Guinardó, a sprawling municipal space that hardly anyone uses.

Ascend woodland paths to the top of the hill for a panoramic view of the city all to yourself.

Arriving: Bus 28 stops near the highest part of the park on Carrer de la Gran Vista – Plaça de la Mitja Lluna. The main entrance is at Carrer de Garriga i Roca 62
Tel: +34 934 500 749

Exercise: Montjuïc Municipal Olympic Swimming Pool

Swimming pools don’t get better than this.

Photo: liako

Built to showcase the city during the diving events of the 1992 Barcelona Olympics and used by Kylie in her video for “Slow,” you can enjoy a prefect view of the city while doing your laps.

The pool may not have much in the way of amenities, but with a setting this good, it’s hard to care.

Address: Av Miramar 31
Tel: +34 934 430 046
Arriving: Take the Metro to Parallel, then hop on the funicular. At the top, the pool is across the road next to the restaurant El Xalet.
Hours: Open daily between July and mid-September, 11am-6.30pm

Sweets: Caelum

Tucked away in the Barri Gòtic, Caelum is the place to go for a sugar fix when you’re weary of walking. They sell products made by nuns and monks from around the country and the two-floor teashop has a superb collection of cakes.

For any marzipan lovers wondering what heaven looks like, this is it.

Address: C/ de la Palla 8
Tel: +34 933 026 993

Beaches: Get out of town

Only tourists go to the beach in Barcelona.

Sant Pol de Mar / Photo: Antoni

If you spot a Catalan, it’s most likely they just haven’t made it home to bed yet.

Those in the know head farther up the coast. If you’re on a budget, a simple city metro ticket will take you to Montgat, a wide, sandy beach with safe swimming.

Farther north, Sant Pol de Mar is a lovely Catalan fishing village with clear blue water and a shingle beach that’s just an hour’s train ride from the city.

Websites: www.montgat.net, www.santpol.org

Architecture: Casa Calvet

Photo: ale3andro

Want to check out the interior of a Gaudí building but avoid the queues for tours of La Pedrera? Why not grab dinner in one instead?

Restaurant Casa Calvet opened its doors in 1994, having converted the offices and boardrooms of a building Gaudí designed for a local textile manufacturer into semi-private dining rooms. It isn’t cheap, but then it’s not every day you get to dine inside a work of art.

Main courses can be a bit hit and miss, but the mango tart with pepper ice-cream and yogurt sauce is a sure thing.

Address: Calle Casp 48
Tel: +34 934 124 012
Website: www.casacalvet.es
Kitchen hours: Monday to Saturday 1pm-3:30pm and 8:30pm-11pm. Closed Sundays.

Culture: Palau de la Música

There’s no denying that this world-famous concert hall and bastion of Modernist architecture is a tourist attraction, and deservedly so. To separate yourself from the hordes and see it in all its glory, attend a concert. The building is even more gorgeous inside than out.

Address: C/ de Sant Francesc de Paula 2, Urquinaona
Tel: +34 902 442 882
Website: www.palaumusica.org

Nightlife: Razzmatazz

Photo: itz.

You need stamina for clubbing in this town. If you want to party like a local, take a disco nap in the evening, begin a leisurely dinner around 10pm, and don’t even think about going to a club before 2:00 in the morning.

When you do, head for Razzmatazz.

Housed in an old factory, ‘the Razz’ is massive. Its five different dance floors play everything from indie and rock to electronica and pop.

There are frequent live music offerings as well.

Address: C/Almogàvers 122 – C/Pamplona 88
Tel: +34 933 208 200
Arriving: Take the Metro to Bogatell or Marina.
Website: www.salarazzmatazz.com

Community Connection

For more smart travel tips on the Catalan capital, be sure to check out Matador’s Green Guide to Barcelona and the Top 5 Ferias in Spain.

Destinations

Community Connection to Spain

The Matador community blogs are filled with travelers’ takes on Barcelona. Sample different perspectives with:

Tracing Gaudí around Barcelona

The Washing Machine: Barcelona, Spain

The best place for lunch in Barcelona: Outdoor Markets

LAUGHS AT THE LONDON BAR – Barcelona

La Champagneria: The craziest bar in Barcelona

Photo: accent on eclectic

If you’re interested in traveling to the Middle East but aren’t sure where to begin, be like the Pope: kick-start your trip through the holy land in Jordan. With its welcoming people, small size and manageable number of sacred sites, Jordan is the place to go biblical.

Mt. Nebo

Start at piney Mt. Nebo, where Moses first beheld the Promised Land of the Canaanites. In the valley below, Jerusalem’s golden dome (the Temple of the Rock) and the salty white shores of the Dead Sea glisten in the sun like the North Star did for the Three Magi.

Photo: upyernoz

If you listen carefully, you can almost hear the babbling brooks of milk and honey, the tumbling of the walls in neighboring Jericho, and the history echoing through the quilted valley below (Deuteronomy 32:49-50).

Bethany beyond the Jordan

Down by the banks of the muddy Jordan River lies Bethany beyond the Jordan. Amidst the wispy tamarisk, willow, and poplars trees, Jesus was baptized here in this once mighty river by his closest friend and companion, John the Baptist (Matthew 3:13). If you R.S.V.P. and B.Y.O. Priest you can be baptized here too.

John the Baptist loses his head

Photo: laura padgett

Heading south, you’ll soon be rewarded with breathtaking views of the crystalline waters from the lowest point on earth: the Dead Sea. From its sodium-encrusted shoreline, the windswept hills undulate towards the heavens.

Between heaven and hell, at the sleepy shepherd’s village of Mukawir, Herod the Great’s castle ruins perch precariously atop a 700m hillock.

This is where Herod Antipas, Herod the Great’s successor, had the head of John the Baptist served up on a silver platter at the request of the legendary seductress Salome, his niece and step-daughter (Matthew 14:9-12).

Sodom & Gomorrah

The further south you go, the more scandalous the stories become. Towards the Nabataean ruins of Petra, not far from the village of Safi, you’ll find Lot’s Cave. Lot and his two daughters took refuge here from the fire and brimstone that destroyed the original sin cities of Sodom and Gomorrah.

While no remains of Lot or his daughters were ever found, not far from the cave stands a pillar of salt that many believe to be what’s left of Lot’s wife. By disobeying the warnings of the angels to not look back at the razing of her beloved twin cities she was sodium-ized for all eternity (Genesis 19:30).

Photo: shioshvili

The cooler, older brother of Moses

Within hiking distance from Petra, amidst the iron-stained sandstone of Wadi Musa (the well of Moses) is Jebel Haroun. On top of this mount — revered by Muslims and Christians alike — is the tomb of Aaron, Moses’ cooler, older brother.

Pay homage here to the man described in the book of Exodus, and later popularized in church camp songs, as the one who dared to say “Pharaoh, pharaoh, hey-ho, let my people go…”

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For even more advice on where to head if you find yourself in the region, make sure you read 6 Under-the-Radar Destinations in the Middle East.

If you’d like a peek at a Matador member’s experiences traveling in the area, Middle East Travel: By the Numbers should put a smile on your face.

Photo: irene.

Even if you’re not in France on July 14, you can still celebrate the French national holiday with other Francophiles at one of many events around the world.

London

Across the Channel in London, Bastille Day will be commemorated at events throughout the city. On July 12, Battersea Park will host the Bastille Day Garden Party, one of the biggest celebrations outside France.

In addition to a picnic, the party includes a pétanque tournament, a French market, an open-air cinema, and a chance to win prizes such as cooking classes at the Alain Ducasse school in Paris.

New York

Each year, the Alliance Française puts on a large celebration on 60th Street between Fifth and Lexington Avenues. It goes down July 12 this year, with market stalls, music, dance, and food. Among the prizes being raffled off are trips to Paris and French language lessons at the Alliance Française.

The Committee of French Speaking Societies also holds its annual Bastille Day Ball on July 13, with this year’s theme being Les Années Folles, or the Roaring Twenties.

Philadelphia

Philadelphia goes all out with a 4-day celebration at the Eastern State Penitentiary beginning July 9.

The throwing of the Tastykake / Photo: thatpicturetaker

On July 11, revelers are invited to take part in a storming of the Bastille, with Marie Antoinette escorted by armed troops as she shouts “let them eat Tastykake,” throwing the locally-produced pastries from the prison tower.

She’s then presented to the audience, who decide her fate as she stands next to an executioner and real guillotine. French Revolutionaries, played by members of the Old Fort Mifflin Historical Society, also make appearances.

Milwaukee

For the past 28 years, Milwaukee has put its predominantly German heritage aside for 4 days in mid-July by staging the Bastille Days festival at Cathedral Square Park downtown, complete with a 43-foot replica of the Eiffel Tower, street performers, minstrels, and music.

The festival begins with a Storming of the Bastille on the first night. Visitors can also participate in free French lessons, observe a traditional French Mass, and have their caricatures drawn. Genealogists are on hand to trace the roots of anyone with French heritage.

Seattle

On July 11, Seattle’s celebration begins with a Bal des Pompiers, or Firemen’s Ball, which traditionally takes place in every French town and city the night of July 13 or 14. This year, the event features a Moroccan menu, recognizing the popularity of the cuisine in France.

On July 12, a day of free events is held at the Seattle Center with food, live music, painting workshops, theater, and cooking demonstrations.

Franschhoek, South Africa

Photo: Julien Carnot

Meaning “French Corner,” this town in the Western Cape province was originally settled by French Huguenot refugees in the 17th century. Each year, Franschhoek enthusiastically celebrates the French national holiday with a weekend festival.

A masked ball begins the festivities on July 10. This year’s event features a food and wine marquee, film festival, game of pétanque, and a chefs and waiters race.

Budapest

The French Institute in Budapest and French Trade Office throw their Bastille Day celebration on the Buda side of the Danube on July 11, with food, wine from the regions of Aquitaine, Bordeaux, and Champagne-Ardennes, and music from French and Hungarian bands.

Fireworks cap off the festivities, just as they do in France.

*Feature photo: Cyril Plapied

Community Connection

If you’re lucky enough to be in France this time of year, check out these Matador titles for travel advice and anecdotes:

How to Enjoy Paris for Free

Top 10 Free Things to Do in Paris

Beyond Paris: 5 Other Places to Experience La Belle France

Losing My Travel Virginity: Homeless in Paris

How to Move to Paris with No Money

Photo: aaronbflickr

Most visitors to northern Chile make a beeline to the small inland town of San Pedro de Atacama and never look back. Yet, the best combination of the region’s two most rewarding natural resources — the desert and the coast — is found a few hundred miles to the southwest.

Natural diversity: from desert, to beaches, to penguins

Pan de Azucar National Park occupies over 43,000 hectares, straddling the border of Chile’s Regions II and III. There’s a thin strip of coastal paradise, flanked by miles and miles of desert stretching away from the shore.

Photo: ^riza^

Beach camping is what’s on tap. Wake up to an ocean sunrise, join the seagulls and sandpipers for a quick dip in the sea, and then relax on the sand.

Once you’ve had your fill of beach soccer, surfing, and sunbathing, take a hike to the top of the Mirador for an excellent view of the stark Atacama landscape. Ask the park rangers for more information on the Mirador walk, along with other hiking opportunities.

And don’t forget the penguins! Boats depart from Caleta for tours around Isla Pan de Azucar. There you’ll see sealions laze and bark and Humboldt penguins chatter amongst themselves on the shore.

How to get there

The park lies 800 km north of Santiago and just 30 km from Chañaral. Renting a car, which can be done in Antofagasta or Copiapó, is the most convenient way to reach Pan de Azucar. Hitchhiking is also possible, helped by the fact that Chile is probably South America’s safest country.

A third option is to take a bus to Chañaral, conveniently located on the Pan-American Highway, and then hop a minibus or collectivo to the park.

Where to stay

The four campgrounds (Caleta Pan de Azucar, Piqueros, Soldado, and Piqueros Norte) sit on long strips of white-sand beach, ten minutes from the park entrance.

Photo: ~chicchun~

Soldado and Piqueros Norte are group areas — Soldado mainly sees families, while Piqueros Norte is where young singles flock.

These two campgrounds are the best; the sites are located farther apart from each other for more privacy, and they offer the best views of the ocean. They come with a canopy, campfire ring, and table and chairs. Nearby are bathrooms and cold-water showers, plus sinks for washing dishes.

Also available are a few “fully equipped” beach cabanas, each sleeping six.

Caleta and Piqueros are less expensive but sites are cramped — your view may very well consist of the back of another tent.

Sign up for a campsite at the administration station, which is open from 8:30-12:30am and 2-6pm.

Costs

Photo: law_keven

Beach cabanas: $20,000-$40,000 CLP per night, depending on the season
Campsite at Piqueros Norte or Soldado: $3500 CLP per person, per night
Campsite at Caleta or Piqueros: $2000 CLP per person, per night
Park entrance fee: $3500 CLP per person ($1500 CLP for children)
Boatride to Isla Pan de Azucar: $5000 CLP per person

Special tip: The budget-conscious can try talking to the rangers about a “servicio.” Depending on their mood, you might be able to convince them to let you pick up litter on the beach or empty the garbage bins in the bathrooms in exchange for a night’s stay.

Additional tips

* Though Caleta has a small store, its prices are exorbitant and its selection meager. Buy food and supplies before arriving. There are also vendors who come through in the afternoon with empanadas and sweets, but you shouldn’t rely on them either.

* Pack a flashlight, matches, a knife, plastic bags for trash, sunblock, and sunglasses. These are must-haves for camping in Pan de Azucar.

* A visit in spring (October, November, and December) will give you a look at the blossoming of exotic desert plants and families of guanacos (related to llamas).

* Despite the ocean’s tempering influence, this is still the desert — it gets cold at night, so bring a good jacket and a hat to stay warm.

*If you love the night sky, you’ll love Pan de Azucar. Pack your star map for some serious star gazing.

Community Connection

Matador is the place to read up on Chile! Relevant titles include:

Destinations

Community Connection to Chile

Chile’s Best Coast Towns (which, incidentally, happens to feature Pan de Azucar)

8 Natural Wonders of Chile

10 Reasons to Base Your Study Abroad Experience in Chile

7 Reasons to Learn Spanish in Chile

What People Are Listening to in Chile

Trekking Torres Del Paines, Patagonia, Chile

Photo: versageek

The brief northern summer is when these islands, shuttered up tight three seasons of the year, open their doors, set out the lawn furniture, and throw a rope to the ferries bringing in visitors by the hundreds.

Here are six New England island locales you’ll want to hop a ferry and see, whether you’re day tripping or settling in for a longer stay.

Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts

Not far off the southern coast of Cape Cod, the Vineyard is 100 square miles of intriguing towns, forested countryside, and postcard beaches.

Photo: jlrotner

From bustling Oak Bluffs to upscale Edgartown, from the crashing waves of the Atlantic at Katama Beach to the lapping waters on the shores of the tiny fishing village Menemsha, you’ll find each of the island’s six towns has a different personality, and every beach a different atmosphere.

A campground and a hostel stand in the woods in the middle of the island, if you don’t feel like staying at one of the many B&Bs or inns. Bike and moped rentals, as well as the extensive shuttle bus system, make exploration of the island super convenient.

Don’t forget to take the two-minute ferry trip to the Vineyard’s neighboring island of Chappaquiddick. This quiet, purely residential speck of land is perfect for a day’s bike ride.

Nantucket, Massachusetts

With exclusive galleries, upscale shops, and fine dining, Nantucket is an island with a standing invitation to the wealthy. It keeps its accommodations pricey…but the beaches are free! A shuttle bus system will chauffeur you around if you don’t want to ride a bike.

Photo: Paul Keleher

In between beach basking and checking out the towns of Nantucket and ‘Sconset (short for Siasconset), you’ll find in addition to high-end attractions there are plenty of casual restaurants and shops to patronize.

Block Island, Rhode Island

They often party even during daylight hours on Block Island. Walk off the ferry and you’ll be in the middle of the action, as the majority of the clubs, restaurants, and shops are found nearby.

Although it’s loaded with B&Bs, inns, and hotels, you don’t have to stay the night to get a good feel for this 10-square-mile island. Biking or moped-ing around will let you see all the sights and soak up the atmosphere on a day trip.

Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts

Cuttyhunk is one of only two of the private Elizabeth Islands — owned by the Forbes family — that’s open to the public.

Home to about 50 year-round residents, its population “swells” to 400 in the summertime. Small, peaceful, and isolated, this is a place to escape to if you’re craving solitude.

There’s a B&B, inn, and, for those traveling in a group, cottage and house rentals.

Fishers Island, New York

Utilized during the Spanish American War to protect New York City, Fishers Island has a year-round population today that’s not much different than it was back in 1898: 300.

Photo: -= Bruce Berrien =-

This is one nearly deserted island, with long country roads, the occasional public beach, and a just few places to eat.

The Pequot Inn, the only accommodation on the island, is a big part of summer life, throwing parties that stretch into the morning hours.

Explore during the day and you’ll find this island has one of the friendliest attitudes of any on the East Coast, with locals waving out their car windows to you as they drive by.

Visitors are welcome to ferry their cars ashore from Connecticut, or you can rent a bicycle once you arrive.

Thimble Islands, Connecticut

This archipelago in the Long Island Sound just off the shore of Connecticut consists of 100 to 365 tiny islands — depending on the tide and on how big a rock has to be before you can call it an island.

Photo: author

Many are so tiny they hold just one home, and on one there’s nothing more than a gazebo. The most populated, Money Island, hosts 32 houses.

These dots of land are private, which means you can only go ashore if you know a local. However, there’s nothing stopping you from enjoying the islands on a kayak or boat tour.

Once back in the adjacent mainland town of Stony Creek, hang out for a while on the beach, walk around the relaxed residential streets, grab a bite to eat, and you’ve got yourself a unique day trip.

Community Connection

Sabina also happens to be Matador’s destination expert for Martha’s Vineyard — she’s the one to turn to if you have any questions at all on this iconic New England island. To get in touch, click over to her Matador profile, where she goes by the name Travellohr.

Have a favorite New England island that didn’t make the list? Sound off in the comments!

Photo: jezarnold

Here at Matador, we love the weird, wacky, and surreal. So naturally we took note when the Dir Journal Info Blog published a list of Abandoned Places in the World.

The reasons and urgency that lead a group of people to just up and leave a place are varied: obsolete technology, depleted resources, natural or man-made disasters. But whatever the case, there will always be people who are drawn to destinations like these.

I’ll admit, I enjoy dipping into a cemetery to walk amongst the buried, reading the epitaphs, marveling at the intricate artwork and over-the-top mausoleums while reflecting on life.

Maybe the attraction of visiting an abandoned city is a similar feeling — the emptiness and loneliness, wondering where these people (or their offspring) might be now.

Oradour-sur-Glane / Photo: Verity Cridland

Dir Journal Info Blog’s article lists 15 places around the world from where humans have walked away, leaving the remnants of a once active area.

It includes Pripyat, Ukraine, which was abandoned within two days in 1986 because of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster; Centralia in Pennsylvania, cleared out over 20+ years due to an underground coal-mine fire that’s been burning since 1962, which has made it too hazardous to live there; and Oradour-sur-Glane, France, a town that lost 600 lives and was subsequently destroyed by the German SS in 1944.

Others are Kolmaneskuppe, Namibia, a former diamond mining town whose population steadily declined after WWI, when diamond prices crashed, and Balestrino, Italy, whose inhabitants were moved in 1953 after several earthquakes brought them to the conclusion that the area was geologically unstable.

For more information and some interesting photos, make sure you check out the Abandoned Places in the World article.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Are you interested in visiting places that have been abandoned? Or is it too creepy? Have you been to any that you can add to the list? Please share below!

Photo: {meagen}

Photography Lovers

Michigan Central / Photo: country_boy_shane

Dotted with the ruins of abandoned buildings and dilapidated houses covered in colorful graffiti, the landscape of Detroit looks good in the viewscreen.

The city’s gritty feel and faded beauty translates well to film, whether you choose to evoke nostalgia with shots of empty iconic buildings, or to document the slow decay of an industrial city in a post-industrial age with images of factories long forgotten.

Michigan Central Station is one of the city’s most recognizable monuments. It’s illegal, though not unusual, for photographers to slip inside to capture the crumbling opulence of its interior. If you want to join them, hurry. There’s talk of demolition.

Art Lovers

Art in Detroit is everywhere.

In fact, spurred by ridiculously low home prices (the city average was $11,533 in April), artists may actually be the only people moving to Detroit right now.

Both the Detroit Artists Market and the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit, housed in a converted graffiti-covered warehouse, host internationally acclaimed exhibitions of visual, performing, and multimedia arts.

Detroit Institute of Art / Photo: dana.ocker

The world-class Detroit Institute of Arts has one of the largest collections in the world, with works from Monet, Degas, van Gogh, Matisse, and Picasso, and a series of murals (depicting Detroit factory workers) by Diego Rivera.

Wander an open-air art installation at the Heidelberg Project, a street of abandoned houses covered in polka dots, stuffed animals, and scrap metal that resembles a twisted Wonderland, or just take in a showing at restaurants like Cass Café and The Majestic.

Music Lovers

From Motown greats like Aretha Franklin and Diana Ross (whose careers are among those commemorated at the Hitsville USA Motown Museum) to rock darlings the White Stripes, Detroit has a long tradition of fostering musical talent.

See the next Detroit Cobras or Dirtbombs — before they hit it big — at intimate clubs like the Old Miami, the Magic Stick, the Lager House, and Cadieux Café. The Detroit Electronic Music Fest, held every Memorial Day weekend, features some of the best DJs and electronic music producers in the world.

To indulge more classical tastes, check out a performance at the opera or symphony.

Booze Lovers

Detroit’s a drinking town, and no matter what you fancy you’ll find it here.

Photo: No Trams To Lime Street

Drink with the city’s elite at the bar at the stately Whitney mansion, or rub elbows with war veterans in the casual backyard of the Old Miami.

Sip cocktails and dance in your club couture at Deluxe, or rock out to the jukebox at the dark, divey Bronx Bar.

Or just relax with a microbrew at one of the city’s three breweries, such as Motor City, home of the Ghettoblaster Ale.

Food Lovers

An influx of immigrants from around the world means Detroit is the place to come for some of the most authentic Polish, Mexican, Greek, and Middle Eastern food this side of the Atlantic. Head to Mexican Village, Polish Village, or Greektown for their respective cuisines, or take a short drive to Dearborn for Middle Eastern.

If you’re in the mood for something a little more local, check out Union Street for American comfort food with a twist or head to newcomer Slows, which churns out Detroit’s best barbecue and a killer bourbon lemonade (just come prepared for a long wait).

And of course, no visit would be complete without tasting the ubiquitous Detroit Coney dog.

Bargain Lovers

Economic woes for residents equal rock-bottom prices for visitors. Detroit has always been cheap, but deteriorating financial conditions mean even more discounts and deals.

Dollar drafts and 2-for-1 drinks at happy hour? Check. A filling and delicious meal for under $10? Check. Free museums, no-cover live music clubs, and ample free parking? Check, check, and check.

It’s easy to live large in Detroit on a small budget, and thanks to discount bus company Megabus, low rates on Amtrak, and cheap fares into Northwest’s hub, it doesn’t cost a lot to get here either.

Underdog Lovers

As the butt of countless jokes, it’s easy to kick Detroit while it’s down.

Eastern Market / Photo: ellievanhoutte

But if you’re a sucker for a lost cause, you may just be charmed by the city’s unwavering community pride in the face of such depression.

The people of Detroit understand their city has problems, but many are choosing to rally their neighbors and fight for change rather than sit idly by and watch the city decay further.

Detroit’s refusal to let go of the past is immediately evident, but when you look a little deeper you also see a small — but growing — ray of hope for the future.

Community Connection

For more of Katie’s perspective on her hometown, check out her Matador community blog post My Motor City.

Matador member Pap of Glencoe is another Motown native. Visit her Matador profile to connect.

Beach at the Green Turtle Lodge / Photo above and feature photo: Stig Nygaard

1. Zebrabar

Location: near Saint-Louis, Senegal

At this upscale campground, human-size monkeys cross the beach and a resident zebra playfully steals guests’ belongings.

Photo: author

With a river that’s safe for swimming and a deserted ocean beach, Zebrabar accommodates the solo backpacker as well as families with young children, making it a fabulous place to meet travelers from all over the globe.

During the high tourist season around New Year, birders flock to the campgrounds to explore National Park Langue de Barbarie.

But from June to September, just a handful of guests are around to relax in the resort’s hammocks, paddle kayaks across the river, and gather for three-course dinners at the water’s edge.

Website: http://www.zebrabar.net
Cost: $13/night for a single bungalow with shared bath, $19/night for a double
Currency: West African CFA franc
Language: French. Swiss owners also speak English and German.
Getting there: Taxi from Saint-Louis (30 minutes)
Tip: If you’re not a bird watcher, go in the off season (June to September) to have things all to yourself.

2. Green Turtle Lodge

Location: near Cape Coast, Ghana

Backpackers and volunteers in Ghana talk about Green Turtle as though it were the very definition of paradise, which it might well be compared to some of the country’s other accommodations.

Solar-powered bungalow / Photo: Stig Nygaard

This is a true getaway from the hustle of Ghana’s cities, and since it revolves around environment- and community-oriented tourism, there’s no need to feel guilty for lounging here for days on end.

Visit nearby fishing villages, canoe through mangroves, and stroll the beach looking for the sea turtles that nest here between October and March.

The highlight of the day? When the cook posts the menu. From coconut fish curry to jam on homemade bread, the food is cheap — a few dollars for a meal — and tasty.

Website: http://www.greenturtlelodge.com
Cost: $4 for a tent, $5 for a dorm bed, $20 for a double chalet with shared bath
Currency: Cedi
Language: English
Getting there: Bush taxi from Cape Coast (several hours)
Tip: If it’s raining, pass on the tent and spring for a bed instead. Book one from within Ghana by text message, since cell service is spotty at the resort.

3. Kribi

Location: southwest Cameroon

Relaxing in Kribi / Photo: gizzle

This isn’t one resort; it’s an entire beach town overflowing with hotels for you to choose from. Some are pricey for the backpacker’s budget, but once you get a taste of the spectacular coastline and succulent seafood, you’ll see that Kribi is worth splurging for a few days.

The town is also home to one of the world’s few freshwater falls that feeds directly into the ocean.

Nightlife here is hoppin’! Bars and clubs are crowded until late, and street vendors hawk grilled fish and brochettes — meat on skewers — to accompany the ubiquitous 22-ounce beers.

Cost: Budget hotels at $20/room, others starting at $35/room
Currency: Central African CFA franc
Language: French
Getting there: Bush taxi from Douala (several hours)
Tip: Prices are negotiable in the off season, particularly if you’re willing to forgo air conditioning.

Community Connection

After splurging in Kribi, why not keep heading south to check out Trips’ 5 Reasons to Go to Angola in 2009 (And Beyond) with your own eyes?

Or hang out longer in Cameroon to investigate Volunteer Opportunities in Africa.

And for those who think beaches are a bit dull, may we suggest coming Face to Face with South Africa’s Great Whites?

Photo: aka*kirara

Cotswolds, England

Nobody embraces tea more seriously than the English. Famous world over for its stone-built villages, historical towns, and rolling green hills, there’s no better place to experience tea time than the English Cotswolds.

Sip Earl Grey amongst drooping willows and lazy streams at the birthplace of William Shakespeare, in Stratford-upon-Avon, and you may be inspired to write a few sonnets of your own.

Photo: Author

Chengdu, China

Chinese green tea is as famous in the East as Earl Grey is in the West. For the best in Chinese teahouse culture, head to Chengdu.

Traditionally venues for conversation, light eating, and ear cleaning (a service performed by professionals with mini-lances and swabs, followed by an energizing shoulder massage), Chengdu teahouses have evolved into both trendy hotspots for dating and nightlife as well as sanctuaries of quiet relaxation.

At the south bridge of Dujiang Weir, enjoy a relaxing afternoon outside with a bottomless pot of your choice for around 20 yuan ($3).

And yes, you can still have your ears professionally lanced.

Ganzi, Tibetan Plateau

After passing over 13,000ft mountain passes to the Tibetan Plateau, Chinese green gives way to its western cousin, butter tea. A mainstay of the local diet, generous portions of (often rancid) butter and salt give Tibetan tea a uniquely unpleasant flavor that is undoubtedly an acquired taste.

Tibetans take advantage of the butter’s oils to protect their lips from the high-altitude sun. Consequently, the higher you go, the more butter in your tea.

Photo: Author

Although situated in West Sichuan and not the Tibetan Autonomous Region, the town of Ganzi is culturally more Tibetan than most of Tibet.

Wander the old town, overlooked by a hilltop monastery (home to over 500 Buddhist monks), and you’ll find yourself lost among faded prayer flags and elderly patrons slowly spinning prayer wheels.

Since the 2008 Tibetan uprisings, in which Ganzi was an epicenter of violent protest, West Sichuan has been out of bounds to most foreigners. If you make it to this remote mountain town and duck into one of the many local guesthouses for tea, you’ll likely be the only Westerner they’ll see for weeks.

Photo: Author

Marrakech, Morocco

Sipping hot mint tea in the souks of Marrakech, Morocco, entails more than you might expect.

You sit among boiling cauldrons of lamb heads, watching as your tea is poured from large steaming copper kettles at arm’s length into tiny palm-sized glasses.

The addictive sweet mint tea is served throughout the day. Alcohol is regarded as taboo in traditional circles in this Muslim nation, so mint tea acts as the social beverage of choice.

At the local food stalls in the Djemaa el Fna, in the heart of the old city, grab a cup with the locals in the evenings for around $0.10 a glass.

Cuzco, Peru

The coca leaf, notorious for its roll as the principal ingredient in cocaine, has been used for centuries in Andean tea.

Photo: sdpuckett

Among the Inca-descended Quechua in particular, the ancient brew is still consumed to alleviate the effects of life at altitude.

Try the tea in the mountain city of Cuzco, where tourist accommodations offer a complementary cup on arrival.

At nearly 11,000 ft above sea level, your body will thank you for downing a draught of the coca concoction, especially if you’ve just gotten in from Lima and the coast.

Nashville, USA

Served on ice with a squeeze of lemon on a hot Tennessee afternoon…it’s not hard to understand why American Southerners love their sweet tea. What better place than the home of country music to experience it for yourself?

Located 30 minutes from downtown Nashville along a narrow country road sits Barbara’s Home Cookin’, a local “meat an’ three” joint. One sip of Barbara’s homemade sweet tea, accompanied by a lunch of her fried chicken and fresh pie, and you’ll be humming “Rocky Top Tennessee” for a week.

Community Connection

Tea fans might also enjoy reading about 11 Herbs That Ease Common Travel Ailments. Also, make sure to check out Hidden Hope: A Visit to a Sri Lankan Tea Estate.

Photo above: tylerdurden1, Feature photo: Carrie Musgrave | Livebabylive.com

Practicalities

South Korea’s size makes road tripping an attractive option. Vehicles can easily be rented at Incheon International Airport and through many hotels in Seoul.

Tip: Try to reserve an LNG-ready car. The cost of this alternative fuel is about a quarter that of gasoline.

The following standout spots fall in a clockwise route, beginning in the capital.

Seoul

Best to wait on the car rental for a few days while you make use of the subway to sample Seoul’s best.

Culture: Gyeongbokgung Palace
Start at one of the grandest palaces in the country, dating from 1395. In addition to the impressive Throne Hall and a pavilion virtually floating in a pond, the National Folk Museum is also on the grounds.

The photogenic changing of the guard takes place at 10:00, 13:00, 14:00, and 16:00 daily outside the main gate. Admission: $3 USD.

Photo: yeowatzup

Shopping: Insadong
A short walk from Gyeongbokgung is Insadong, the best traditional market in town. Grab lunch at one of the many old-school restaurants before strolling through the art galleries and craft shops. Afternoons often see folk music and traditional dancing exhibitions.

People watching: Myeongdong
Next, an introduction to Seoul chic. Myeongdong is the place to go to find trendy name-brand stores and hip clientele. Try to hit the narrow alleys when they truly come to life — after work — when Seoulites stroll past designer boutiques while munching gourmet street food.

Views: N Seoul Tower
You’ve most likely caught a glimpse of the N Seoul Tower, standing tall on Namsan Mountain. A cable car ($6 USD round trip) will shuttle you up the mountain to the base of the needle, from where you can ascend to the tower’s observatory level ($3 USD) for city panoramas. The tower also houses a rotating restaurant.

Nightlife: Hongdae
Underground DJs thumping into the wee hours, chill acoustic or rock sounds spilling from cramped bars, and luxury noraebangs (karaoke rooms) — this is Hongdae, the city’s #1 choice for watching the sun come up. Get there via the subway’s green line.

History: DMZ tour
The most popular tour in Korea ($40 to $80 USD) will take you to one of the most mysterious and heavily guarded strips of land on the planet. Everything from half- to two-day tours are available.

Shuffle down infiltration tunnels (dug by the North), browse the DMZ museum, gaze out over the zone and portions of North Korea from the Dora Observatory, and take a moment to read the heartbreaking notes tacked on the Freedom Bridge (used to exchange POWs after the Korean War).

All told, it’ll leave you with a lot to consider on your 90-minute bus ride back to Seoul.

Stop 1: Northeast Coast

Okay, it’s now time to hop behind the wheel and hit the road.

Photo: Ryuugakusei

Seoraksan National Park
Seoraksan has it all: hiking, wildlife, and history.

The park is at its best in autumn, when the colors of its foliage rival those of New England.

Take the cable car ($5 USD) up to Gwongeumseong Fortress to gaze over the spectacular peaks and rock cliffs of this park. Or, if the line’s too long, put your boots to work.

Sokcho
This charming port town on the East Sea is the perfect base camp for a park visit. Browse the seaside fish markets for dinner, then knock