Photo: Unhindered by Talent

Community Connection

Inspired to head into nature? Make sure you’re geared up at Matador Goods.

For more mountainous pictures, feast your eyes on Photo Essay: Day Hike to Camp Muir, Mt. Rainier.

Photo: Ai@ce

Photo: Brad Marshall

1. White Mountains of New Hampshire

A premier destination for summer backpacking and autumn leaf peeping, the White Mountains of New Hampshire transform into an arena for serious mountaineering in the winter.

From the steep gullies of Huntington’s Ravine to the wind-ripped summit of Mount Washington, the White Mountains provide an excellent venue for learning and refining your mountaineering skills.

2. Rocky Mountains in Colorado

Colorado’s Rocky Mountains are an ideal place to build experience at altitude and traveling over exposed terrain. Though it doesn’t require a rope or technical climbing, the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak is a serious objective with severe exposure. It is certainly a test for any budding alpinist.

Photo: papalars

3. Cascade Range in Washington State

Mount Rainier is a classic destination for mountaineers for obvious reasons: It’s one of the best mountains in the US to climb for big adventure.

But Rainier is only one of hundreds of mountains in the Cascade range. Offering everything from glacier travel to alpine rock climbing, and serving as the home for several of the world’s best guiding companies, the range is an excellent classroom for the mountaineering student.

4. Volcanoes of Ecuador

The Cordillera Occidental and Cordillera Oriental in Ecuador feature very high, but relatively accessible, summits.

The highest peaks, Chimborazo (20,561 feet) and Cotopaxi (19,347 feet), require only basic glacier travel and general mountain experience, making them ideal for novice mountaineers looking to experience extreme elevation.

5. Southern Alps of New Zealand

Though the altitude is relatively low, the Southern Alps of New Zealand provide an excellent opportunity to build confidence on more technical terrain.

Involving steep couloirs, heavily crevassed glaciers, and extreme coastal weather, the mountains of the Southern Alps allow beginners to stretch their abilities under the supervision of a guide.

Photo: mer de glace

6. French Alps

The French Alps, and specifically Mont Blanc, have been an alpine proving ground since the birth of the sport. What better place to test your skills than on one of the classic routes up the original mountaineering objective?

Mont Blanc offers a whole range of routes, but even the easiest requires basic mountaineering skills and experience with glacier travel. The area, of course, is serviced by some of the best mountain guides in the world.

Community Connection

More tips for the beginning mountaineer can be found in 7 Mountaineering Essentials and How to Get Started Mountaineering.

Photo: mathias-erhart

Community Connection

Who doesn’t love a good mountain? Visit Matador Network’s Mountains page for more.

1. Iceland’s main road (the “1″) is around 800 miles long and circles the entire country. Since there is very little traffic on this island of 300,000 souls, not to mention a distinct lack of vegetation and wildlife, much of the time there’s just the country’s majestic nature — lava fields, glaciers, streams, lakes, and huge lichen-covered mountains — for company.

2. If you’re lucky you might even see the famous Northern Lights (aurora borealis). This photo was taken on a trip around the Snaefellsnes glacier, one of the most stunning areas of Iceland and just a 2-3 hour drive out of Reykjavik.

3. Another scene from Snaefellsnes, this time taken during sunset. Due to its low population, much of Iceland is quintessentially rural, though with a crazy volcanic twist that makes the landscapes highly distinctive and memorable. Ever seen sheep or horses grazing peacefully in a lunar-style lava field? You will here…

4. Speaking of horses, the Icelandic breed is world famous. They’re generally small — pony-sized in fact — and have special gaits. Fun fact: laws prevent animals from being imported to Iceland or returning to the country after they’ve been exported.

5. Another very special (and largely under-acknowledged) area in Iceland are the Westfjords. The oldest part of the island geologically, they’ve developed a unique community. Travel up here can be tough due to the deep, winding fjords. On the upside you’ll often feel like you’re driving through a fairy tale.

6. A great time to visit the Westfjords is in April or May when there’s still a good chance of snow on the mountains, but when the roads are generally clear (they can be closed off during winter). Snow-based activities in the area include ice fishing, snowmobiling, and spontaneous snowman making.

7. The Westfjords region has generally been in decline since WWII and the fall-off of the fishing industries. Yet the tourist infrastructure is excellent and though many residents literally abandoned their houses and moved to Reykjavik for work, many others have kept second homes here.

8. In harsher weather you can see and feel how bleak the Westfjords (and other remote parts of Iceland) can be. Yet even foreboding skies, whiplash winds, and driving rain can’t strip the country of its inherent and often unexpected beauty. The dominant forces of nature are felt everywhere.

9. On the other hand, Iceland is an absolute delight in summer. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not cold during spring, summer, or even (sometimes) autumn. In fact, temperatures are generally at European levels, give or take a few degrees. But don’t forget that the farther north you go, the less nighttime you’re going to get. Akureyri (pictured here from across the fjord), is the second largest city after Reykjavik with 10,000 inhabitants. It’s a popular place due to its exquisite setting, nearby whale-watching tours (in Husavik), and proximity to major natural attractions such as Lake Myvatn.

10. The coastline in Iceland’s north is fascinating with its strange mix of luminous green lichen, steep cliffs, and sky-wide vistas. This shot was taken near Husavik, one of the great whale-watching centers of the world. In the background is Lundey Island, home to a multitude of bird life including puffins, black guillemots, fulmars, and arctic terns.

11. Lake Myvatn, an hour or so from Akureyri, is one of Iceland’s most beautiful and mysterious areas. A mesmerizing array of lava lakes, bubbling geothermal areas, and volcanic craters, it’s unlikely you’ll forget a trip here in a hurry. It really is like paying a visit to the moon (well, presumably. And with a bit more water).

12. To the east of the Myvatn area lies the formidable Hverfjall. A kilometer in circumference, this looming black volcanic crater was formed around 2,500 years ago.

13. A wider view of Hverfjall takes in grazing horses, parts of Lake Myvatn, a snow-capped glacier, and the region’s famed geothermal resources, which power the Myvatn Nature Baths — or the northern Blue Lagoon as it’s known. This thoroughly modern spa area (see the building with the blue roof) has mineral-rich geothermal water, a cafeteria, three natural steam baths, and a 5000-sq.-meter geothermal bathing pool maintained at a constant temperature of 38-40ºC. Sploosh.

14. You can also see the bizarre formations created by that geothermal activity up close at Hverarönd, a collection of bubbling sulfuric mud, clay springs, and steaming rocks. Remember what I was saying about the lack of darkness in summer? This photo was taken at 11pm.

Community Connection

While in Iceland, take part in their version of a pub crawl. Find out How to Drink on the Reykjavik Runtur.

Photo: paleontour

If you’re the kind of traveler that likes to defy danger and the wishes of the local indigenous people, then you’d better get your butt Down Under real soon. If the National Parks and the Anangu people of the Western Desert have their way, it will be illegal to climb this famous Australian landmark.

Photo: rplzzz

Less is still too much

As it is, there are heaps less people making the climb than before. In 1990, three-quarters of visitors reached the 340 meter peak, whereas today that ratio has shrunk to just one-third.

But that still translates to 250 people per day. 250 more than the Parks and the locals would like to see up there.

Besides the cultural sensitivity issues, it’s a dangerous climb. To further deter tourists from attempting it, details of more than 30 deaths await you at the base.

There are also sanitary reasons why you shouldn’t do it. A lack of toilets on the sacred rock mean that some hikers are damaging the local environment as their waste runs down into the waterholes around the rock.

For and against

Not only is the Federal Opposition party opposed, but Prime Minister Kevin Rudd rejects the proposal:

Obviously it’s a question of public safety and managing important parts of our natural landscape…I think it would be very sad if we got to a stage though where Australians and frankly our guests from abroad weren’t able to enjoy that experience…to climb it.

However, there is no shortage of folks who are fully behind the idea of an outright ban, including many tourism operators. Ultimately, the decision may rest with Environment Minister Peter Garrett, the former frontman of politically charged Midnight Oil.

Mr. Garrett has never himself climbed Uluru, instead saying he’s respected the sign at the bottom placed there by the traditional owners, which states “Please don’t climb Uluru.” Although his preference is clear, he wants to make sure the correct decision is made:

There should be a debate amongst the stakeholders: the tourism industry, indigenous people, governments and others.

Stay tuned!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Have you hiked Uluru? Would you do it despite the request from the local aboriginals to refrain?

Share your thoughts below!

Photo: Ken Lund

The L.A. Times’ online travel section recently published a list of trivia on Mt. Rushmore, the U.S. national memorial featuring the faces of four American presidents carved into a granite cliff in South Dakota’s Black Hills.

Intended to share various fun facts on a national icon, the list includes entries such as:

Photo: StuSeeger

* George Washington has the longest nose of the four.
* Ninety percent of the carving work was carried out with dynamite.
* Thomas Jefferson was originally positioned on Washington’s right, but this face was blown up and a new one carved between Washington and Roosevelt.

Yet, the article also relates a few obscure historical points about the monument that raise eyebrows in a different way:

1. The lead sculptor may have been a member of the KKK.

Gutzon Borglum was the man charged with creating the monument in 1927.

Photo: Peter Kaminski

However, immediately prior to this, he had been laboring on a different project: the Confederate Memorial Carving on Stone Mountain, Georgia.

This is the largest bas-relief in the world and depicts Confederate leaders Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee, and “Stonewall” Jackson.

Its construction was funded in large part by Georgia’s Ku Klux Klan.

Though Borglum didn’t finish the job, he became pretty chummy with KKK leaders during his time at Stone Mountain, and his experiences there directly influenced his work on Mt. Rushmore.

2. The Black Hills are stolen land.

In 1868, the U.S. government signed a treaty with various American Indian peoples guaranteeing Indian ownership of the Black Hills forever. Just nine years later the government took back the land (there’s a term for that, isn’t there?) following the discovery of gold in the Black Hills.

In other words, a proud monument commemorating heroes of American democracy sits on land acquired through lies.

Photo: KimonBerlin

The U.S. Supreme Court ruled in 1980 that the Black Hills had been illegally seized and ordered the federal government to pay $105 million to the American Indians still residing in the region.

The money was refused.

What’s more, on another cliff just 17 miles from Rushmore, a new monument is slowly taking shape. Its subject is Crazy Horse, the famous Oglala Lakota leader.

Progress is slow, due to the desire of those involved to avoid using government funds. But when completed, it will be nearly 10 times as tall as Mt. Rushmore — the largest statue in the world.

More than a monument

If you’re one of the 3 million visitors to Mt. Rushmore this year, make sure to keep the above “trivia” in mind.

Like any travel destination, there’s more here than meets the eye.

Community Connection

Rapid City, South Dakota, isn’t just the gateway to Mt. Rushmore, but also to Pristine America.

If you get fired up on history, you’ll enjoy these other Matador titles:
10 Key Destinations For The Historical Time Traveler
How to Take a Foreign History Crash Course in 5 Steps

Photo: saltyseadog

You can, of course, take the gondola up — but we both know how much more you’ll appreciate the panoramic views over Vancouver when you feel like you’ve earned them. But don’t get too cocky; it’s not as easy as you think.

The base of Grouse Mountain is easily reachable from Vancouver by public transit or car. Once there you can decide if you want to give the Grouse Grind a go, or if you’d be more comfortable skimming over the tree tops in the Skyride.

If you choose the former, be prepared. Wear sturdy footwear and bring water. I’ve seen unprepared hikers being carried back down when they couldn’t continue (with a look on their face like they’d just spent a week in the desert). I’ve also seen countless visitors wearing jeans, flips-flops, and Gucci handbags. This is not a walk in the park, so give it the respect it deserves.

The hike is a steep one, and is mostly up steps. If you’re in decent shape, expect to complete it within one to one and a half hours. If you’re fitter than a fiddle, you can try to break the official men’s record of 26:19 or the women’s of 31:04.

Plenty to do and see in the summer

Sure enough, in the wintertime you can shush your way down the ski runs, ride in a horse-drawn sleigh, ice skate and snowshoe. But there is also plenty to do during the summer months.

Photo: unwritten

No matter how you decide to get to the top, you face a variety of entertaining summer activities. Some of the things on offer: scenic chairlift rides, ziplines, paragliding, and helijet rides. You can also visit the grizzly bears at the wildlife refuge, watch the lumberjack show, or take in a flick at the Theatre in the Sky.

On a clear day, Grouse has some of the best views over Vancouver, the surrounding areas, and Burrard Inlet, so don’t forget your camera.

It’s not advisable to hike down the Grind, but for just a few bucks you can descend in the Skyride. Make sure you hold on as it passes the towers — it can get a bit bumpy!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more in our mountains series, click here for posts on peaks like Volcan Licancabur in Bolivia, Tai Shan in China, Mt. Etna in Sicily, and Katahdin in Maine.

Feature photo: kiki-bolivien, Others: author

Images of Tolkien’s volcano come to mind. Perfectly coned slopes loom over a stretch of desert so sinister it could be taken for Mordor itself.

I always thought Frodo was a chump, but after climbing the 19,423 ft (5,920 m) Licancabur, I’m willing to cut him some slack.

Backdrop: Desolation

This peak lives in the extreme southwestern corner of Bolivia, straddling the border with Chile.

The nearest town, San Pedro de Atacama, is on the Chilean side, but the trail to the summit is in Bolivian territory.

Lagunas Verde and Blanca (named for the colors of their naturally chemical-rich waters) lie at Licancabur’s base, and this pocket of surreal scenery is visited on most tours of Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit.

Getting to the mountain independently is possible, but it’s more conveniently done as an add-on day to the tour. Either way, a guide is mandatory for the climb.

The Ascent

After a short sleep in one of the little refugios on the shore of Laguna Blanca, the trek begins an hour before sunrise. With its silhouette blacking out the stars, Licancabur is even more ominous.

You’ll start shedding layers once the sun crests the horizon and soaks everything in golden warmth. The new light will also have you throwing glances over your shoulder after each deliberate step to gawk at the desert plain, dotted with volcanic humps, stretching away behind you.

The going is slow — your guide wisely sees to that. Even towards the bottom, the elevation can cripple. If you get the soroche headache before the halfway point, you’re done. You won’t be allowed to summit.

The last 500 meters of climb blur — step, gasp, head rush…over and over. No one speaks; no one can. Eventually you hit snow, then the false peak, and 30 minutes later the pile of sticks and stones that marks the top.

The Summit

Your guide will give you no more than 10 minutes topside; you should be ready to descend before that anyway.

Remind yourself to take at least a short break from the camera so you can enjoy the experience LCD-free.

Check out the little lake in the volcano’s crater (some say it’s the highest in the world), and with dizzy eyes try to make out the remains of Incan temple foundations — that’s right, people have been climbing this rock for centuries.

If you’ve been chewing your coca, the descent should be no problem. Each meter dropped is a deeper inhale of O2. By the time you hit bottom, you’ll feel like an Incan mountaineer yourself.

For advice on getting to Licancabur, click over to today’s companion post, “Bolivia’s Southwest Circuit. Backwards.”

Community Connection:

Along with Mount Doom, China’s Tai Shan is another peak heavy with legend. Read how to summit it — and ensure you’ll live to see your 100th birthday — here.

If you prefer your mountains extra spicy, consider these 11 that David DeFranza singled out as the world’s most dangerous.

Photo: kanagen

At its tallest point, the Jade Emperor peak tops out at 1545 meters. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Tai Shan is loaded with historical, cultural, and natural significance — pilgrims have been making the trek up the mountain for over 3,000 years to pay religious homage.

There are a total of 22 temples, 97 ruins, 819 stone tablets, and 1018 inscriptions. That should keep you busy for a few minutes.

Almost 80% of the mountain is covered in vegetation, including medicinal plants and ancient flora such as the Han Dynasty Cypresses — planted 2100 years ago — and the Tang Chinese Scholartree, growing now for 1300 years.

Live to be a centurion

It’s said that you will live to see 100 years if you climb this sacred mountain. There are several options for the 4-7 hour ascent, some shorter than others, with the main route being a brick path all the way up. As at many of China’s other tourist hotspots, expect to be followed by vendors trying to earn a renmimbi or two.

Photo: LHOON

For the not-so-physically inclined, there are 24-hour buses that run to the midway point of the mountain. A cable car is also available for eagle-eye views.

Catching the sunrise is a popular activity but requires nighttime hiking or sleeping at the top. Make sure to bring a flashlight!

Some logistics

Taishan station is Tai’an’s train stop and is serviced by trains coming from Beijing and Shanghai. From the station, local bus #3 will get you to the base of the mountain. Taxis are also available, and you may even want to walk to the closer access entry points to warm yourself up for the climb.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

For thirteen more UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Asia, David DeFranza rounds ‘em up here.

Photo above: abkfenris, Feature photo: a song under the sugar sugar

Its rough bulk rises from the pine forest, northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail and highest point in Maine at 5,267 feet above sea level.

Mount Katahdin is the centerpiece of Baxter State Park. Governor Percival Baxter created this 150,000-acre tract in 1931 with the intention that it “forever be kept and remain in the Natural Wild State.” In doing so, he gave Katahdin the illustrious title of “mountain of the people of Maine.”

With over 200 miles of trail in the park, summit-bound climbers have options. Cathedral is a fun scramble, but Knife Edge, a razor-thin ridgeline route with thousand-foot drops on either side, earns top props. If you’re all outta juice for the return, the longer but gentler Saddle is a good pick.

Even in summer, Katahdin’s stiff winds and frequent rains can chill. Check current conditions before committing to a climb, pack cold-weather gear, and register at the ranger station before heading up.

Access to Baxter trailheads is limited daily; those serving Katahdin (Roaring Brook, Abol, and Katahdin Stream) are most popular. Maine residents can reserve parking spots in advance, but for everyone else it’s best to camp the night before or arrive wicked early in the morning.

Community Connection:

Got a thing for mountains? Hit up past posts in this series on Quandary Peak and the Zugsptize. For a sweet collection of Matador mountain climbing blogs, visit this page.

Photos: author

As far as volcanoes go, they don’t come much more famous–or infamous–than Mt. Etna. Its snowy roof is perpetually in view from anywhere on Sicily’s east side.

Around 430 BC, the Greek philosopher Empedocles is said to have thrown himself into the fires of Mt. Etna. The reasons why he did this vary, but the common theme is that he wanted to prove he was a god. Nowadays we clone sheep and genetically modify food.

A few years ago my wife and I arrived at Etna Sud (Rifugio Sapienza), the southern access point of Europe’s largest volcano, early in the morning and well before any tour bus arrived. We quickly headed up.

A buried house on the way to the car park

One option to reach the summit is a combination of cable car and 4×4 bus; this option would also run you close to 50 Euro and give you no sense of accomplishment.

If you want to hoof it on your own, layer up as the weather can change very fast. The elevation difference from the bottom to the point where the 4×4 bus drops its load off is 1000 meters. It’s a couple hundred more meters climb to a couple of smoking craters which can be closely inspected (depending, of course, on volcanic activity).

The highest peak, at 3329 meters, is inaccessible without proper climbing gear (and recommended guide).

On your marks, get set…

From the car park there is a maintenance track that switchbacks up to the top of the cable car run. It is possible to go straight up the slope, following the gondola line, but of course this route is much steeper and can be a bit dodgy in parts as you need to walk over loose rock.

We learned this the hard way. Bored on the snaking road, we switched to the straight up route where it was two steps forward, one step back on the sliding stones.

Decision point

I would consider us average hikers, and it took about two hours to reach the cable car’s top station, where there is a gift shop/cafe selling overpriced goods.

If you didn’t take the combo cable car/bus ticket, this is your opportunity to pay for the 4×4 up. We briefly contemplated it, in the end opting out, of course.

From here the walking route follows the 4×4 bus track. When we were there in the spring, there was a wall of packed snow four meters high on either side of the track.

As the buses drive up they belch black smoke out the side that draws a knee-high line all along the snow walls.

Another couple of hours will get you to where the buses stop and unload passengers. Still heading up we crossed over black lava rock with snowy patches until we made it to the two craters.

At one of them you could walked along the rim of the crater and stare down into the steaming vent.

Hike up, “ski” down

You can take the gondola down, but we found it more fun to hike–we used the patches of snow to ski down in our boots.

It was only about 1.5 hours for the descent, making the total around six hours, plus time for sightseeting at the top.

The history and the myths that surround Mt. Etna make it a mysterious place. A trip to southern Italy wouldn’t be the same without a visit to this legendary volcano.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more volcano adventure, check out Matador member Olivebeard’s post on climbing Pacaya in Guatemala.

Photo: Jeff Handlin

There is something about waking up deep in the backcountry, having carried all of your gear in to camp near a quiet lake or alpine cirque with panoramic views of the surrounding peaks.

You can find dozens of places like this in the Big Sky State. These are nine of my favorites, the ones I consider the “ultra-classic” Montana experiences.

Montana has incredibly varied terrain, so I’ve included different regions as well as different levels of difficulty and distance.

East Rosebud Trail (aka The Beaten Path)

Location: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness

Arguably one of the best hiking experiences the Rocky Mountains has to offer in any state, the East Rosebud trail between Red Lodge and Cooke City has something for everyone, from wildlife that walks right up to you, to incredible fishing in lakes surrounded by craggy peaks, to trailside berries to munch on.

A strong hiker could make this 26 mile hike in one day, but if you want to get the most out of the trip, expect to spend three or more days out there. Though the trail gets its nickname from the mid-summer throngs of people, it’s far from crowded. Take any of dozens of side trails and you’ll find yourself in complete solitude.

Cottonwood Creek, Crazy Mountains

Location: Gallatin National Forest

Unlike many backpacking routes, this hike offers great mountain views right from the start. The trail follows Cottonwood Creek through prime moose habitat before climbing to excellent camping in the beautiful glacial tarn that embraces Cottonwood Lake.

Fishing is good at Cottonwood Lake, but another unnamed pond just below Cottonwood has water so clear you can watch the foot-long trout strike your line. Make sure you bring a stove to cook your catch as firewood is scarce.

Photo: Jeff Handlin

Boulder Pass

Location: Glacier National Park

If you’re looking for a variety of interesting geological features Boulder Pass won’t disappoint. The beginning of the hike is marked by ample huckleberries along alpine lakes, lovely expanses of prairie and spectacular views of Harris Glacier. Waterfalls line the mountainsides as you make your way up to Boulder Pass.

Here, the geology gets more interesting. The terrain resembles a moonscape with lava pools and other reminders of the area’s volcanic past. The trail goes through Hole-in-the-Wall campground, said to be the most remote campsite in Glacier Park, and along narrow cliff-side trails Glacier is famous for.

Bechler River Trail

Location: Yellowstone National Park

Bechler River Trail has everything people come to Yellowstone Park for: wildlife, waterfalls, hot springs, picturesque river canyons, and great fishing. It is also one of the least visited areas of the park. That said, don’t leave getting your backcountry permits until the last second.

Camping is limited to established campsites and there aren’t many. It is also one of the least strenuous trails in the Rockies, being flat or a slight decline for most of its substantial length. Its flat grade turns boggy in some areas, making it almost impassable until early August.

Photo: Jeff Handlin

Big Creek to Bear Creek Traverse

Location: Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness

The first several miles of the Big Creek Trail wander along the bottom of a forested canyon and belie the rugged nature of the Bitterroot range. Stepping out of the trees near Big Lake, however, will introduce you to the jagged peaks that characterize most of the hike, twice crossing the spine of the Bitterroot divide between Montana and Idaho.

The stunning views and complete solitude make the considerable trek in well worth it.

Moose Lake Trail

Rehydrating. Photo: Mike Willis.

Location: Bob Marshall-Great Bear Wilderness

This trail, located just south of Glacier Park’s southern boundary, offers what’s best about the Bob Marshall Wilderness: options. Studying the map for a few minutes will reveal almost infinite possibilities from lake-to-lake angling excursions to alpine summit expeditions.

The trail to Moose Lake begins in dense woods but soon opens up into spectacular views north into Glacier and south/east into the Great Bear Wilderness.

From there, drop into Moose Lake, or change your mind and climb to Tranquil Basin, descend into Elk Lake or hook up with the Twenty-five Mile Creek Trail.

From there, choose between heading for the Middle Fork of the Flathead River or climbing Vinegar Mountain. You get the idea.

Hyalite Creek to Hyalite Peak

Location: Gallatin National Forest

This trail is short but sweet, and considered by many to be the premier hike of the Bozeman area. In the first five miles to Hyalite Lake, the trail passes eleven seperate waterfalls cascading from Hyalite Basin’s red rock bowl. At Apex Falls, just below Hyalite Lake, the trail branches toward Apex Crest and Hyalite Peak.

Hyalite Peak may not be the highest peak in the Gallatins, but it may be the most beautiful, looking down on one of the most unique drainages in Montana.

Crystal Lake-West Peak

Photo: Jeff Handlin

Location: Lewis and Clark National Forest

Starting at Crystal Lake, the trail leads in a long loop to the top of the Snowy Mountains, connecting with several side trails that lead to peak-bagging opportunities—notably Promontory and Grandview Peaks. At least two cave entrances along the trail will entice spelunkers to light up and explore.

Upper Potosi Hot Springs

Location: Tobacco Root Mountains

The Tobacco Root Mountains are often overlooked when it comes to backcountry adventures. Big mistake. The landscape is more arid than most in Montana, which makes for open, panoramic views. Hot springs on the trail bubble into primitive backcountry soaking pools. A just reward for the hike in.

More Information:

Gallatin National Forest Headquarters
Federal Building
P.O. Box 130
Bozeman, MT 59771
(406) 587 – 6701

Glacier National Park
Off Hwy. 2
P.O. Box 128
West Glacier, MT 59936
406-888-5441

Bob Marshall Wilderness hike

Lewis & Clark National Forest
Augusta Information Station
Augusta, MT 59410
Phone: (406) 562-3247

Custer National Forest
Beartooth District, Rt 2, Box 3420, Red Lodge, MT 59068
406/446-2103

Crystal Lake hike

Lewis & Clark National Forest, Judith Basin Ranger District
PO Box 869
Great Falls, Montana 59403
(406) 791-7700

Bechler River Trail

Yellowstone National Park
P.O. Box 168
Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190
phone: 307-344-7381
fax: 307-344-2005

Visit the backcountry planner on Yellowstone’s website — the backcountry office can be reached at 307-344-2160.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re looking for even more reasons to visit Montana, here are four more .

Photos: author

At 14,265 feet, Quandary is the highest peak in the Tenmile Range. There’s straightforward, all-season access via Highway 9, with the trail head just eight miles south of cushy Breckenridge.

Quandary’s wide, mild East Ridge slopes make for an excellent introduction to hiking above treeline in the summer and backcountry skiing when the snow falls.

Consequently, you’ll never have Quandary Peak to yourself. The weekday I climbed, I set out at a laughable 11:00 AM and passed other hikers—though not frequently, fairly consistently—even on the way down.

But regardless of whether reading this makes you want to book it to Breck or jot a mental note to stay clear, let me assure you the views from the top can be enjoyed by visitors of all levels of expertise.

A word of warning: approaching the summit from directions other than east yields technical slopes. These are prone to avalanches in winter and can be dangerous any time of year. Don’t underestimate.

Community Connection

Planning to hit up Quandary while the snow’s still on the ground? Before you go, brush up on our First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding and 8 Pieces of Gear to Keep You Warm and Safe in the Backcountry.

Photo: Christian Nawroth

So much for legacies. Josef Naus, a Bavarian surveyor thought to be the first to climb Germany’s tallest peak in 1820, had the rug pulled out from under him a few years ago when it became evident that locals had actually scaled the Zugspitze, a mountain that straddles the Austria-Germany border, 50 years before him.

Nowadays, reaching the top at 2962 meters above sea level is much easier. You have a few choices: a cog railway from the German tourist town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, or cable cars from the base–one on the Austrian side and one on the German side.

Why not hike it?

Of course, if you want the bragging rights you’d best be climbing it on your own over one or two days. There are numerous routes to the top, a couple on which you can plan an overnight stay in an alpine hut.

Visitors looking for European ski bunnies should schedule in a trip to the Zugspitzplatt in the wintertime, the highest ski resort in Germany.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Inspired to conquer a massive mountain? Check out these eight that David DeFranza says “yes, you can!”