***Copyrighted Material: The images below are copyrighted against unauthorized use. We were granted special permission to feature them in this Matador photo essay. Please visit the photographer links for licensing conditions for each photo.***

1. Uluru, Australia
The massive rock — a.k.a. Ayers Rock — is climbed by 250 every day, despite pleas from local indigenous groups to refrain from doing so.
Photo: Chris Harrison

2. Diving with whale sharks
The whale shark is the world’s largest fish species and can grow to be longer than 40 feet. This shot was taken off Christmas Island, Australia, in January 2005.
Photo: Rob Hughes

3. Cotopaxi, Ecuador
This volcano just south of Quito reaches an elevation of 5,897m (19,347ft) — often higher than the clouds.
Photo: david_rombaut

4. Redwood country, California
Taken in Stout Grove, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, this picture shows me (in red) straining my neck next to the Stout Tree.
Photo: Aya Padron

5. Sea Kayaking, solo
Big water, small boat. Shot taken walking the Southwest Coast Path from Land’s End to Plymouth, England.
Photo: nixwilliams

6. Great Ocean Road, Australia
The coast along one of the world’s most spectacular roads is also good for a walk.
Photo: Andrew Ferrier

7. Ponoras Cave, Romania
Things can get large underground too. Here, spelunkers from CSA explore “Mammoth Hall” in Romania’s Transylvania region. The light trail was produced by a fast-moving caver with a headlamp.
Photo: Bela Nagy

8. Snowfields, Rocky Mountains
This is no photoshop. It’s Matador senior editor David Miller getting in some late-season turns in Rocky Mountain National Park. Read about it in The Dharma Shack Chronicles.
Photo: David Miller

9. Desert, southern Peru
Sand accumulates into massive dunes in one of the driest deserts on Earth. Notice the city of Ica, Peru, in the distance — also dwarfed.
Photo: guilherme cecílio

10. Camping under the stars
So many stars. And camping the best way to let them overwhelm you. This shot was taken near Maupin, Oregon.
Photo: Ben Canales

11. Mount Bromo, Indonesia
This very active Javanese volcano attracts lots of tiny visitors up to its steaming rim.
Photo: Jiang

12. Yosemite National Park, California
That’s me again, this time feeling very small (and a little dizzy) at the top of Half Dome. Notice the gloves — not a fashion statement, but what you use to pull yourself up the cables on the final ascent.
Photo: Aya Padron

13. Antarctica
Travelers to Antarctica report losing all sense of distance — the geographic scale is so immense and the ice fields so flat and white. This is Lake Fryxell.
Photo: Nicolas Arthur Salava

14. Preikestolen, Norway
This rock has a great view of Lysefjorden and is a good place to get close to the edge.
Photo: Sonya Kanelstrand

15. Mont Blanc, France
Europe’s tallest mountain tops out at 4,810m (15,782ft) and sits in one of The 6 Best Starter Ranges for Mountaineering.
Photo: Sarah Brigden

16. Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
This salt plain is the world’s largest and traps rainwater during wet winter months, creating a tripped-out sky mirror. Find out how to get there.
Photo: Carlos Díaz

17. On a cliff ascent
This one happens to be the curved limestone face of Malham Cove, North Yorkshire, England.
Photo: Dubris

18. Iguazu Falls, Brazil
The majority of the falls lies in Argentina, but according to the photographer, “the great thing about the Brazilian side of Iguazu is that there are no limits on taking pictures at any time of day….(unlike the Argentinian side).”
Photo: SF Brit

Community Connection

Where have you felt most dwarfed by nature? Share your story (and a link to a photo if you have one) in the comments.

Pamukkale, Turkey / Photo: Vandelizer

ONE OF THE THEMES we seem to return to often here at Trips is the total bizarreness (and beauty) of Planet Earth. And it’s not only the editors that find the topic fascinating — these posts are consistently among the most popular on the site.

Last year, Photo Essay: The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth snagged a half million pageviews with its images of Bolivian salt flats, peculiar Socotran vegetation, and weird geologic features from around the world.

Contributor Ross Lee Tabak followed this up with 8 More Strange Places on Planet Earth, introducing little-discussed geographic oddities like Antarctica’s Pole of Inaccessibility and Turkmenistan’s “Door to Hell.”

We learned about the rainbow of sand colors in Photo Essay: 7 Beautifully Bizarre Beaches, and places so inherently dangerous that I had to ask, Would You Live Here?

And the list goes on. If you’re not already familiar with Trips photo essay titles like 18 Natural Wonders of the USA and Iceland’s Fire and Ice, I encourage you to visit Matador’s photo essay focus page for a more comprehensive listing.

Photo: Matthew Fry

Still more

With the growing number of travel writers and photographers out there, and the technological ease with which they can share their explorations of place, I sometimes assume there are no “amazing” destinations I haven’t heard of. That assumption is incorrect.

Just the other day, I came across a post from Aquiziam.com called Ten Strange Places. Yeah, I’d heard of a few of these bizarre natural wonders (mostly in research for the pieces linked above), but several were new to me:

• The terraced, milk-white mineral pools of Pamukkale, Turkey
• New Zealand’s “Moeraki Boulders,” the soccer-ball-esque spherical stones that cover Koekohe Beach on the South Island
• The 16km caldera of Las Cañadas, which is the cap of the volcano that created Tenerife and the rest Spain’s Canary Islands

For more of this list, check out the original post.

What’s the most bizarre place you’ve ever visited? Tell us in the comments.

Community Connection

What you consider “strange” can depend on your state of mind. Explore that idea in Peyote Perception: Searching For Truth In The Mexican Desert.

Photo: Swami Stream

INDIA IS ONE OF the world’s foremost places for treesearching. For one thing, it’s a biogeographical mashup. Several significant groupings of tree species meet here: Northern Hemisphere standards like pines and oaks, coming into India via the Himalaya; African and Arabian dry desert trees; Southeast Asian rainforest trees; and locally evolved Indian trees.

Additionally, there’s nowhere else in the world with so many temple trees, popular shade trees, historical marker trees, and trees used as business locations. The Hindu and Sikh religions, especially, recognize many famous trees. Trees are used as landmarks and reminders of events, and are often planted by dignitaries to mark special occasions.

Visiting these trees as a tourist can help people appreciate them as a tangible, monetary resource. Of course, these material values must be held in parallel with the more intrinsic values of respect and biological interest. But ecotourism has great potential. Through these trees, we can both learn and teach about the world’s natural treasures.

The trees below were encountered during more than two years of travel throughout India on a vriksh yatri — a tree pilgrimage. I keep hoping that one of them is the mythical Kalpavriksh, the magic tree from the ancient Sanksritic text, which supposedly represents the answer to all of humanity’s problems. For more on my treesearch, check out my website, Tree Octopus.

I encourage you to seek out these ambassadors, and to keep your eyes open for other landmark trees throughout India. I’ve refrained from sharing exact locations, but you should be able to find each of the following with some active inquiry. Happy searching!

Photo: Author

Giant Banyans

The Banyan is a fig tree with the wondrous ability to drop aerial roots from its branches. When these reach the ground, they sprout into solid wooden trunks. Over time, these trees can spread to astonishing sizes, forming an interconnected network of trunks, all branches of the original tree. The world’s largest banyans are found throughout India.

The Doda All Da Mara: Outside of Bangalore on the Mysore road is one of the largest banyans, complete with temple, snack shops, pathways, fencing, and dustbins.

The Great Banyan: The British established the Howrah Botanical Gardens in Calcutta. It is now home to what is considered by most to be the world’s broadest tree.

Kabir Vad: Kabir was a mystic poet sage of India. The Sikh holy book contains extensive passages of his writings. You can find the tree along the lower reaches of the Narmada River in Gujarat.

Northern Ambassadors

Those from Europe or North America will find these oaks and pine trees familiar. The Himalaya offer a cold, wet refuge for them on the otherwise hot and dry subcontinent.

Jageshwar Monarchs: A pair of spectacular giant cedar trees tower over a group of Shiva shrines in a cool valley near Almora in the Indian Himalaya.

Woodside Wolf: On the slopes of Landour, in the British-era holiday hill station Mussoorie, one giant oak tree remains as a relic of once vast natural forests.

Viceregal Oak: In the garden of the Viceregal Lodge of Shimla, a wonderful spreading oak tree stands. This tree would have been witness to many pivotal decisions made by the British rulers of India.

Photo: Author

Jungle Kings

The jungles of India harbor a significant portion of the world’s biodiversity. While most of them have been impacted by human activity, many impressive trees remain.

Kannimara: Famous as the largest teak tree in the world, Kannimara can be found in Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary in the mountains of Kerala.

Connolly’s Teak: Another giant teak, in a plantation of rainforest trees planted in the 1840s by one Mr. Connolly, near Nillambur in the Western Ghats.

Reechgarh Monarch: Exploring the sandstone mountains of Panchmarhi, you’ll find this huge jamun tree in the Reechgarh grotto.

Urban Landmarks

In the chaos of Indian cities, trees provide welcome solace. Some of them are true giants, graciously providing shade and green cover to the people going about their business beneath their branches.

4:30 Ficus: If you think of Delhi’s Connaught Place as a clock dial, you’ll find one remaining big peepal tree at 4:30, at the end of Barakhamba Road.

Hanuman’s Mace: From the main ghat in Varanasi, this banyan tree is visible towering over the human crowds and the Ganga River.

Photo: Author

Park St. Pipal: Just at the start of Calcutta’s Park Street, there’s a small peepal tree acting as sacred shrine.

Weirdo Mangoes

Some strange and unique trees can be found in India, both as freaks of nature and as carefully crafted artwork.

Kaleemullah’s Masterpiece: A mango farmer near Lucknow has grafted an astounding 312 varieties of mango onto a single trunk.

Walking Mango: Just north of Mumbai in Sanjan, there’s a curious mango tree that has adopted a habit of creeping along the ground.

Internationals

Visitors from other countries, these trees bring a bit of an exotic continent to India. Not always recognized as the guests that they are, some of them have become common sights as they’ve naturalized throughout India.

Photo: Author

Elephant’s Baobab: In Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, a giant 500-year-old baobab reminds us of the Muslim king’s botanical tastes.

Ooty Araucaria: If you go to the back slopes of the Botanical Gardens in Ooty, in the Western Ghats, you can find this Southern Hemisphere cold-weather pine grown to monstrous proportions in the tropical climate.

Lodhi River Red Gum: Delhi’s lovely Lodi Gardens is home to a large spreading River Red Gum eucalyptus from the arid inland of Australia.

Ancients

Some trees are venerable elders, links to the past. Several hundred years ago, there were no cars, no phones, no computers, and no trains. Things are changing quickly in India, but these trees haven’t gone anywhere.

Shankaracharya’s Mulberry: India’s oldest recorded planted tree, this mulberry in the Himalaya at Joshimath can be seen as one enters the Valley of Flowers and the Badrinath Shrine.

Nallur Twisted Tamarind: Likely the world’s oldest tamarind tree, the Nallur Twisted tree lives in a sacred grove north of Bangalore.

Delhi’s Khirnis: In the south of the city at Ladho Sarai, Delhi’s oldest trees are found in the pleasant picnic area near the Jain Mandir.

Photo: Devil.Bunny

Sacred Trees

These trees are spiritual treasures, and they receive the respect and care that go along with such status.

Kanchipuram Mango: One mango tree stands at the Ekambaram temple in Tamil Nadu as a replacement for the now-dead tree under which Shiva and Parvati were once wed.

Golden Temple Ber Trees: You can find three very special and revered jujube trees growing in the magnificent Golden Temple of the Sikhs.

Bodhi Tree: This old peepal tree marks the site where Buddha attained enlightenment. It is a sapling taken from a cutting of the original tree. The cutting is alive and well in Sri Lanka, where it is the world’s oldest planted tree. The Bodhi tree at Bodh Gaya, in the Indian state of Bihar, is the world’s most revered and visited tree.

Community Connection

If you take up YD’s challenge to hunt these or other trees in India, Trips would love to hear about it. Americans can also start closer to home with Guide to the Redwood Groves: Where to Find the Tallest Trees on Earth.

All photos by author

I WAS WARNED that life would never be the same after I became pregnant with my first child. Acquaintances seemingly found satisfaction in informing me and my husband of all the things we would no longer be able to, including travel.

After our daughter’s arrival, we learned they were right about one thing: life has changed forever. Our days are filled with more laughter and love than we thought possible. And some of our most memorable moments have unfolded as we share one our favorite pastimes with our daughter: outdoor travel.

First steps

Anna had been walking for one month when we decided she was ready to take on a biking and camping trip along the Greenbrier River Trail in wild West Virginia. Her budding vocabulary included words like bike, cat, and the sign language for rain, but she had no idea how intimately she would encounter each of these over the next four days.

The Greenbrier River Trail is part of the Rails-to-Trails system, in which old railroad tracks are converted to trails for recreational use. The 78-mile long path is wide and flat — a 1% grade — and winds along one of the most scenic rivers on the East Coast.

The water offers opportunities to swim, fish, and canoe in warm weather. The trail is lined with 12 camping sites and even more picnic tables. Many of these sites also have restrooms, which we found clean and well supplied. However, only select sites provide potable water, making it necessary for overnight campers to refer to a trail map and ration out their water supply.

Departure

We planned our trip for the last week of fall for the autumn colors. Preparing was fairly basic. All we needed was a map, decent weather, and a backup plan in case Anna was not an enthusiastic camper (plan B was to carry the phone numbers of bed and breakfasts located on our route).

We started at the trail’s southernmost end in a town called Caldwell. We squeezed into the packed parking lot and unloaded our gear onto the bike trailer. An hour later, 40 pounds of supplies — from diapers to Raman noodles — were deftly balanced on the trailer. We hooked up Anna’s “Bob Chariot” to the back of our other bike.

We placed our happy one‐year‐old inside and began to pedal, just as it began to rain. By the time we had traveled nine miles to our campsite, the rain had subsided to a drizzle. We quickly set up the tent and made dinner before putting Anna to bed. The next day, morning light revealed colorful mountains and we were eager to experience this wilderness with our daughter. During the course of our four‐day trip, we cherished watching Anna watch the world.

She pointed excitedly at hundreds of migrating geese and laughed at the coldness of the river water on her legs. She even helped with the meals, meticulously transferring green pepper pieces into a pot of hash browns. Anna’s flexibility and agreeable attitude made us all happy campers.

However, on the second night, our sense of adventure was stretched slightly beyond our comfort level. As my husband and I sat by the campfire, Anna began to cry from within the tent. Another voice echoed back from a nearby tree. It was a bobcat, mimicking her wailing almost perfectly. The night was dark and lonely and the crowded parking lot seemed far away.

If your goal is to experience nature without unexpected feline company and hauling dirty diapers behind a bike, the area offers enjoyable alternatives:

• Stay at a local B&B.
• Car camp at Watoga State Park.
• Rent bikes and make day trips along the Greenbrier River Trail.
• Walk in with a picnic and spend the afternoon swimming and fishing.

If your time on the trail leads you anywhere near the town of Seebert, be sure to stop by Jack Horner’s Corner store. Our weary biker legs enjoyed a well‐earned hot pizza there.

You can also take the family to the historic Cass Scenic Railroad at the northernmost end of the trail. Kids can experience a ride on the train and an inside peek into an important part of America’s past.

However you decide to experience the Greenbrier Valley and however many children you bring along, the region offers adventure, natural beauty, and an opportunity to be together. As our legs pushed our family across miles of gravel, we became a part of the red, orange, yellow, and blue landscape.

I’m happy that life has changed me from a mountain biker into a trailer‐toting mom. Sharing the stars and sticks with someone seeing it all for the first time is a joy.

Practicalities

• For lodging, check out Greenbrier River Trail services.
• Outfitters offer services such as bike rentals, shuttle services, canoe rentals, and guided fishing trips. For specific price quotes, call Elk River Touring Center (866‐572‐3771) and Appalachian Sport (304‐799‐4050).

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more tips on getting on the road with the little ones, read What Every Parent Should Know About Traveling With Their Kids.

Then follow that up with The Educational Value of Long Term Travel With Kids.

Photo: Sarah_Ackerman

I JUST FINISHED registering for a chance to “win” a spot to camp in Central Park. I found out about it from an article at examiner.com. New York’s Urban Park Rangers — whose “mission is to link New Yorkers to the natural world” — are hosting free camp nights all throughout the summer.

Photo: oquendo

As part of their Family Camping program, parks in New York’s five boroughs will play campground on selected nights. There are two remaining nights in Central Park, however registration for July 3 just ended.

But mark July 28 on your calendar; that’s the day you need to register for a chance to camp in Central Park on August 7.

“Winners” (only 30) will be randomly drawn from all the entries. Tents and food will be provided by the Urban Park Rangers, so all you need is your sleeping bag. But Central Park isn’t the only game in town. Campouts will also be held at the Inwood Hill Nature Center in Manhattan on July 31 and September 25.

And, of course, the parks in Brooklyn, Queens, Staten Island, and the Bronx. Visit the Registration page for more details. Good luck!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re gonna camp, you might need some tips: 8 Tips for Camping With Your Dog and 7 Items to Pack for Winter Camping.

Callanish Stones, Scotland / Photo: Donald Macleod

THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE in the UK celebrate solstice at Stonehenge twice a year, but this is only one of over 1,000 stone circles in Britain.

Maps of prehistoric Europe show how Stone Age humans traveled across the channel from mainland Europe into what is now southeast England, and then spread out to the north and west. The Megalithic and Beaker cultures dominated Britain two thousand years later, and they built the great stone structures that still grace the islands today.

Trips previously described sites in the Stonehenge and Avebury area. Just in time for Summer Solstice 2010, here are seven of the best of the rest from southwest to northeast.

1. Greywethers, Devon

Traveling southwest of Stonehenge to the Dartmoor National Park wilderness, you’ll find the double ring site of Greywethers.

The stone circles stand beneath Sittaford Tor, between tributaries of the North Teign and East Dart rivers, and the undeveloped surroundings allow you to imagine the cultures that used the stone circles for reasons lost in the centuries that have since passed.

There has been some restoration work on the circles, which are almost joined, with 49 grey granite stones altogether: 29 in the southern circle and 20 in the northern. The stones are three to four feet high, and both circles are just over 100 feet in diameter.

Photo: Le Petit Poulailler

2. Merry Maidens, Cornwall

Farther southwest, towards the tip of Land’s End, the Merry Maidens is a circle of 19 well-preserved, four-foot-tall stones in a 77-foot-diameter perfect circle, just off the B3315 road.

A legend, perhaps started by the early Christian church to control paganism, claims the stones are women punished with petrification for dancing on the Sabbath. The Merry Maidens are also called Dawn’s Men, thought to be a derivation of “Dans Maen,” or “Stone Dance” in Cornish.

Out of sight to the northeast are two more 12-foot stones that are the pipers of the legend, while a fiddler stone is visible from the circle to the west.

3. Rollrights, Oxfordshire

Northeast of Stonehenge, between London and Bristol on the Oxfordshire-Warwickshire border, are the Rollrights.

Seventy-seven stones make up the 103-foot perfect circle in a clearing in the woods. There is also a King Stone and the Whispering Knights burial chamber. These are said to be part of another petrification legend, involving a witch who tricked the King and turned him and his army into stone.

The King Stone is just over 200 feet northeast of the circle, across a road and the border with Warwickshire.

Photo: alancleaver_2000

4. Castlerigg, Cumbria

Beyond the rolling green hills and other notable areas of prehistoric activity in the north, Cumbria has two notable stone circles. Within the Lake District and surrounded by broad mountains is the Castlerigg circle. It’s thought to be one of the first stone circles built in Britain, and has space on its northern side for what may have been an entrance.

There are 38 quite large stones (the highest is about seven feet) creating a circle with a 90-foot diameter, and another 10 stones forming a rectangle within the circle. There’s also a mound inside the circle, probably for burial purposes.

The site seems strategically placed to get the best view possible, and sitting against one of the great stones on a sunny evening, I enjoyed the view south to the long flat mesa of Skiddaw and north to the sharp peak of Blencathra.

Photo: Joccay

5. Long Meg, Cumbria

Long Meg is the second outstanding site in Cumbria, and its circle is the third largest in England (after Avebury and Stanton Drew) at 359×305 feet.

On a hillside near Penrith, in the village of Rudston, Long Meg is an outlier stone standing 238 feet southwest of the circle, aligned with the mid-winter sunset. It is 12 feet high and overlooks the up to 60 “daughter” stones that form the circle.

Long Meg is also made of a different substance than the others — red sandstone — and has numerous Bronze Age spiral carvings visible on it.

6. Callanish, Outer Hebrides

Continue north through Scotland’s Highland mountains and across Loch Roag of the Outer Hebrides and you’ll come to the stones of Callanish, on the western side of the Isle of Lewis.

They stand in a cross shape rather than a circle, but this has nothing to do with Christianity, as they predate Christ by two thousand years. An inner circle has 13 big stones, with the largest 12 feet high, and a small chambered cairn.

Then there are about 40 other stones divided into four paths that provide approaches to the center from the cardinal directions.

Photo: goforchris

7. Brodgar, Orkney Mainland

Scotland’s other islands are home to the Ring of Brodgar and the Stenness Stones, two circles facing each other across Loch Stenness.

Brodgar is a true ring of 27 stones standing up to 15 feet high on a thin promontory between the Harray and Stenness lochs. Its 340-foot diameter gives it exactly the same size as Avebury’s two inner rings. The stones are set within a circular ditch about 10 feet deep and 25 feet across that was dug out of solid bedrock.

The surrounding area has many interesting sites, including the Stones of Stenness. Although only four stones are left standing out of the original circle, they are much bigger than those at Brodgar, with the highest about 19 feet.

For a comprehensive listing of ancient stone sites in the British Isles and Western Europe, check out the Stone Pages.

Community Connection

If you’re up in Scotland chasing stones, you could also try Hunting the (Other) Loch Monster in Morar, Scotland, and Boozing Through 5 Whisky Distillery Tours In Scotland. Their stargazing is supposed to be good, too.

Photo: muirtrail68

THANKS TO Jaunted for the tip-off. This year the U.S. National Parks are offering lots of free entrance days. The first ones were held over National Park Week in April, and this weekend — June 5 and 6 — it continues.

For a list of the 100+ parks that are participating, check out this alphabetized list (by state). Reservations, camping, and concessions, however, will not be free. But private partners of the Parks are offering up some attractive discounts during the Fee Free days.

Future Free Entrance Days this year are:

• August 14 – 15
• September 25 (Public Lands Day)
• November 11 (Veterans Day)

Of course “free” does come at a price. No doubt there will be hordes of visitors, especially at the more popular parks.

If you do decide to go (at any time, not just on these days), do me a favour please: Leave the guns at home. But if you must go packing, just try not to shoot any bears.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

David Page questions the idea of promoting the parks to draw in more visitors than they can handle. Weigh in at How to Save America’s Parks: Pack ‘Em With People?

1. Death Valley, California
A section of the Mojave Desert, Death Valley is the lowest, driest, hottest place in North America.
Photo: H Dragon

2. Kīlauea, Hawaiʻi
Kīlauea, on the Big Island of Hawaiʻi, sends streams of lava steaming into the Pacific Ocean.
Photo: Tumanc

3. Monument Valley, Utah
The sandstone buttes of Monument Valley stand like towers in the Four Corners region of the Western U.S.
Photo: Wolfgang Staudt

4. Niagara Falls, New York
The tourist vessel “Maid of the Mist IV” does a float-by of the American Falls.
Photo: Diego_3336

5. Redwood forests, California
The tallest trees on the planet hide out in the few remaining tracts of northern California’s old-growth coastal forests.
Photo: Rhett Sutphin

6. Grand Canyon, Arizona
A mile down from the canyon’s rim, the Colorado River is still cutting.
Photo: goingslo

7. Mammoth Cave, Kentucky
Mammoth Cave National Park protects a portion of the longest known cave system in the world.
Photo: Peter Rivera

8. Everglades, Florida
The Everglades are a 60-mile-wide, super-slow-moving subtropical river covering the tip of Florida.
Photo: vladeb

9. Hubbard Glacier, Alaska
Where Hubbard Glacier meets the sea, its 6-mile-wide face calves huge blocks of ice.
Photo: Alan Vernon.

10. Black Hills, South Dakota
Harney Peak, within the Black Hills National Forest, is the highest east of the Rockies.
Photo: blucolt

11. The Mississippi
This monster river system drains 31 U.S. states and is the fourth longest in the world.
Photo: Jon Haynes Photography

12. Bryce Canyon, Utah
Bryce can be more accurately described as an immense eroded amphitheater, populated with hoodoos.
Photo: Chris Isherwood back soon

13. Mt. Desert Island, Maine
The island is protected by Acadia National Park and is all rocky shoreline and crumbly mountain woodland.
Photo: indywriter

14. Crater Lake, Oregon
Collapsed volcano, now a deep blue lake in southern Oregon.
Photo: Michael Whyte

15. Arches National Park, Utah
The park preserves land that’s home to over 2,000 of these weathered sandstone arches.
Photo: tibchris

16. Yosemite, California
Looking down Yosemite Valley, you can see Bridalveil Falls and the granite cliff of Half Dome in the distance.
Photo: *~Dawn~*

17. Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico
The caverns‘ “Big Room” is the third largest cave chamber in North America.
Photo: Justin Wright

18. Old Faithful, Yellowstone
This geyser in Yellowstone National Park erupts a 140-foot spout of water at regular 45- to 120-minute intervals.
Photo: WeiterWinkel

Community Connection

Keep the nature trip going:

Photo Essay: 12 Natural Wonders of Australia
Photo Essay: 14 Natural Wonders of South America
8 Natural Wonders of Chile

Photo: jamingray

The different constellations

The moon, planets, and most constellations — like those of the zodiac — are visible all over the world. However, constellations that appear closer to the North and South Poles are only visible to the corresponding hemisphere. Those constellations — called circumpolar constellations — stay above the horizon all night orbiting the pole.

That’s why northerners see the Big Dipper all night, all year while the southerners never see it. On the other hand, only southerners can view the Southern Cross, the iconic constellation represented on the Australian and New Zealand flags.

Another southern circumpolar constellation is Vela. Vela harbors a neutron star — the Vela Pulsar — which rotates 11 times per second and whose intense magnetic field emits audible pulsating radio signals.

Southern Cross / Photo: Sarah G.

More and brighter constellations

The southern hemisphere has 11 circumpolar constellations, including six first-order magnitude stars, whereas the northern hemisphere only has five circumpolar constellations, none of which has very bright stars.

Why? Because the South Pole faces the galactic center of the Milky Way, providing a view of billions of stars. The brightest constellation is the Southern Cross, and the constellation with the greatest number of visible stars is Centaurus.

Prettier clusters

Within the Southern Cross, the Jewel Box Cluster showcases colorful stars that look like precious stones twinkling in the night. The colors come from a red supergiant amongst very bright blue supergiants and other brilliantly colored stars, some of which have luminosities 80,000 times that of the sun.

Next to the Jewel Box is Omega Centauri, the second brightest globular cluster in either hemisphere and the most massive concentration of stars orbiting the center of the Milky Way. This swarm of more than two million stars looks awesome in a telescope.

Photo: Mr. T in DC

Darker nebulae

Looking at the white stripe of the Milky Way across the sky is cool but looking at dark holes within the Milky Way is even cooler. Because the Milky Way is brighter in the southern hemisphere, the dark nebulae within it are more pronounced.

Situated between the two brightest stars of the Southern Cross is the most prominent nebula in the Milky Way, the Coalsack Nebula. If you connect the nebulae within the Milky Way, you can visualize the Emu in the Sky, which is the best known Australian Aboriginal constellation.

A brighter nebula, the Eta Carinae Nebula, is home to the most massive star in the galaxy, Eta Carinae, which is one of the most exciting stars because it is unstable and thought to be the next star to die in a supernova.

Upside-down

Because the hemispheres are upside-down from each other, the night sky is seen from a different vantage point. So familiar constellations such as Orion appear inverted in the southern hemisphere

The same goes for the moon. Even better, in the southern hemisphere the moon illuminates from the left to the right side in the waxing phase and darkens from left to right in the waning phase. So a crescent moon that looks to a northerner to be on its way to becoming a new moon is actually on its way to being full.

Photo: thebadastronomer

Large and small Magellanic clouds

These clouds are arguably the most amazing objects in the night sky anywhere in the world. Many northern hemispherians mistake them for ordinary clouds because they are big, white, and puffy, until they realize that they are in the same spot night after night.

They aren’t clouds at all; they are galaxies. And, coincidentally, they are right next to each other in the sky. No need for a telescope — the galaxies are so close that they appear much bigger than anything else visible from Earth. The larger cloud is a gigantic view of the fourth largest galaxy in the universe.

In addition to permanent constellations, the southern hemisphere hosts rare astronomical events, such as total solar eclipses. Total solar eclipses are only visible from a tiny percentage of the Earth’s surface and therefore require travel to very specific places. The next one, in November 2012, is only viewable from northwest Australia.

Watching the daytime sky go dark and the birds go silent has a bizarre otherworldly feel that, for astronomy fans like me, warrants traveling half way around the world.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Here are some words from some of the people who’ve been out there: The Ultimate Spiritual Awakening: How Going to the Moon Changed the Astronauts.

Photo: vramak

1. Aina808: On my surfboard sitting in the line-up in Hawaii.
2. passionwriter: Sitting by a campfire in the fall of the year, listening to the sound of the wood popping, and the sun saying goodnight gives me a peaceful feeling.
3. ImpDad: Cannon Beach, Oregon with lightning striking the sand.
4. two2sense: Eating fresh grilled fish on the beach after a day of diving in Honduras.
5. Martin Nielsen: From a mountaintop in El Pauji (Southern Venezuela), the sun will set over the Great Savannah.
6. SuperJenn: Wherever one can find fireflies.
7. WyattWalker: On top of the giant rock living next to the Blood Mountain shelter in Georgia.
8. SteveScherrer: Where the surf meets the jungle in Costa Rica.
9. Yeags: Atop a mountain in the Blue Ridge Parkway.
10. TravelingZack: 4pm in Kasilof, Alaska where the red stains the crystals on the trees and it looks like there is a bright burning forest fire…
11. Traveling Savage: Any day on the Orkney Islands.
12. jrmoreau: From my grandparents’ beach house in Casco Bay, Maine.

Photo: Hamed Saber

13. Joey Pizzolato: Atop a bluff in Lima.
14. Brian Aronson: Giza, with a beer and silence.
15. alexakovachevich: Anywhere I am; it’s the best part of the day.
16. ElenaBlandina: Drinking a cold beer while sitting on a comfy beach chair and my feet in the sand.
17. krisjetz: The beach in Hawaii after a long flight from the mainland.
18. Efreeman: Through the canopy of a forest.
19. IainYNWA: On the roof of the world, in Afghanistan.
20. KlaraH: In a shabby bar in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, after a day’s surfing on a remote beach.
21. headingbacksoon: Reñaca, Chile in December.
22. AndreaL: On an inselberg (rock outcropping) in the White Desert, Egypt.
23. Ghostfacekillen: From the top of my roof in Brooklyn, NY.
24. twitchee27: In the middle of the ocean — not an island in sight.
25. Jules Hikoi: Camel track on the outskirts of Al Ain; West Coast of NZ at the beach.
26. rbdawn: On a cliff, anywhere in the world.
27. christopher10: St. Croix river after kayaking.
28. c_mtnbear: In Mt. Aspiring National Park beyond the glaciers.
29. PhilWyman: From the top of Cadair Idris before sleeping overnight on the mountain to become a poet.
30. wonderluster: Byron Bay lighthouse.
31. hikerjch: After a day of exploring and finding a quiet place to watch.
32. Ames: On a sailboat out on the Great Barrier Reef after a long day of snorkeling/diving…with a glass of wine in hand of course.
33. koppelhf: Yang Yiang.
34. Craig Guillot: The waterfront park in Kowloon, Hong Kong.
35. Priancca: In the Andaman Sea while coming back to Port Blair from Havelock Island.

Photo: mikebaird

36. LmHb: Duck, North Carolina after I’ve been in the ocean all day.
37. thephiladelphian: On top of an abandoned factory in my hometown.
38. tahiaroha: Anywhere from the water on my surfboard.
39. Bigshoe: Hammock at Rocking J’s hostel in Costa Rica.
40. kelsiecb: Lake Powell; the colors complement the rocks.
41. AmericanRugby: While skiing in the mountains.
42. SharonC: On a lanai in Hawaii with a maitai.
43. hodgesd1005: The sand dunes on the Michigan side of Lake Michigan. Try Sleepy Bear Dunes — they’ll change the way you look at Michigan.
44. manuelaodell: On my rooftop in Colombia, overlooking the ocean.
45. imissutila: While doing yoga on the beach.
46. bonnie lynn: Galapagos Islands, lying next to a nursing sea lion.
47. MikeCollins: Any beach bar in Mexico.
48. giovanna86: At Blacks Cliffs on the Pacific Ocean in La Jolla 10 minutes walking distance from my freshman year dorm at the University of California in San Diego.
49. nathanc: At the summit of a mountain after a long day of snowboarding.
50. Ultimate Warrior: Thessaloniki, Greece by the water.

Community Connection

Whose entry is your favorite? Stoke them up by sending a private message or leaving a comment on their profile page. Of course, you’ll have to join the community first.

Photo: star5112

A leaked Department of Interior document, reported in The New York Times, names 14 new sites the Obama administration is considering designating as National Monuments under the Antiquities Act of 1906.

The apparent secrecy surrounding the document has riled Republican Congress members like Bob Bishop (R-Utah). National Monuments can be designated by the President and do not require Congressional approval like National Parks.

Nearly every president since Roosevelt, under whose presidency the act was passed, has designated areas as National Monuments. Only Nixon and Reagan did not.

In addition to complaints about presidential power, conservatives believe these lands were chosen for protection specifically because they shelter valuable fuel resources such as coal and natural gas. National Monument designation would put an end-run around possible exploitation.

Photo: Blue Turban Photography

Get there first

While the politically motivated are shaking fists at each other, you can be the first to put together a trip to some of the highlights, as you see them.

For coastal mountains and biological hotspots, there’s the Berryessa Snow Mountains in California. A good contrast might be the open plains of Montana’s Northern Prairie, which is one of the largest unplowed grasslands in the world.

Or maybe you don’t have to choose. If you took a couple of months, a few friends (or not), a GPS, some Western wanderlust, and a really great playlist, you could probably visit each of these 14 spots and have them largely to yourself, before they’re designated anything but really large (some as large as 500,000 acres), stunning spaces, wildlife corridors, and geologic formations.

Roadtrip!

Here are the 14:

• San Rafael Swell, UT
• Montana’s Northern Prairie, MT
• Lesser Prairie Chicken Reserve, NM
• Berryessa Snow Mountains, CA
• Heart of the Great Basin, NV
• Otero Basin, NM
• Northwestern Sonoran Desert, AZ
• Owyhee Desert, OR/NV
• Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument (expansion), CA
• Vermillion Basin, CO
• Bodie Hills, CA
• The Modoc Plateau, CA
• Cedar Mesa Region, UT
• San Juan Islands, WA

Author disclaimer: I’ve only been to the San Juan Islands, where I bobbed in a kayak, holding onto a giant kelp tentacle while a curious, sparkly-eyed seal popped his head up among the seaweed to check me out.

Matadorians, where on this list have you been? And where are you going next?

Community Connection

Add some overlooked national parks to your road trip itinerary using From Packed to Deserted: U.S. National Parks by Visitor Numbers.

Photo: skyseeker

1. two2sense: Hugging the mast of a catamaran with a bottle of champagne in the Philippines.
2. SteveScherrer: Waking up on a random beach after a night of illegal camping on the east coast of Australia before going for a surf.
3. Brian Aronson: Dune 45, namib desert.
4. Russ G.: Fly fishing in Alaska for salmon.
5. pendergrjb: With a cup of coffee on a log by the bay of San Quintin.
6. bercale: On the rim of the grand canyon with a hot cup of coffee made on a camping stove in a vw camper van by a boy you once loved when you were too young too appreciate the magic of young love.
7. Nisatin: A quiet beach with no tent and the remains of an old fire from the night before.
8. IainYNWA: Camping in Outer Mongolia.
9. ed369: It’s always amazing opening one eye in a beautiful beach hut, waking up to the fresh warm rays of a rising sun.
10. jaguarguitar: NZ – Cathedral’s Cove.

Photo: Indy Kethdy

11. Yeags: After a long night with friends, watching the sun come up anywhere is magical.
12. jrmoreau: From a cabin window somewhere in the Rocky Mountains.
13. saintnick88: Over the pink sand of a Bermuda beach.
14. Jaguar: Mandan Indian site, Double Ditch along the Missouri River banks north of Bismarck, North Dakota — fabulous for Northern Lights too.
15. jlb9976: From the Greek Islands overlooking the Aegean Sea.
16. Aggie: Tulum, Mexico, after falling asleep under an immensity of stars and watching the moon rise.
17. rbdawn: From the warmth of my bed!
18. Joey Pizzolato: Coming out from an underground club in Tokyo, or sitting on the roof of a Chicago skyscraper.
19. charlie74: Pick a mountaintop anywhere in Colorado during autumn. Tough to beat.
20. KlaraH: On a waterside walk home from chosen bar in Stockholm during one of those priceless Scandi summer nights.
21. hikerjch: Waking up early in a new place.
22. Priancca: In the Garhwal hills — while going to chaupta.
23. watchkatespin: On a surfboard in the South Bay of Scarborough, England.
24. ImpDad: From bed with the woman I love.
25. tourguidebernie: In a steel mill………for real.
26. AndreaL: On top of Mount Sinai, after climbing in darkness for 3 hours.
27. passionwriter: Early in the morning in the quietness of my greatroom, the sunrise couldn’t be more meaningful. It is the beginning of a new day!
28. kariann5: Over the ocean on a morning run.
29. PhilWyman: From the Playa at Burning Man.
30. LmHb: Charles Bridge, Prague, 4am in the summer
31. bonnie lynn: Machu Picchu at the gate after a fantastic hike.
32. AmericanRugby: A rooftop in Chicago with friends after a night of revelry.
33. Craig Guillot: Along the coast in Central America.
34. DavidLee: Exiting a bar.
35. ayla: Laying on a beach watching it come up over the sea.
36. CharlieCalifornia: From my sleeping bag.
37. adventurista912: Fraser Island after sleeping on the beach with dingos!

Photo: FreeWine

38. Bigshoe: Hammock in San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua.
39. kelsiecb: Driving over the plains of the Midwest U.S.
40. Steve L: While meditating on a mountaintop.
41. SharonC: Walking the canals of Venice, Italy.
42. tiffanyv: Coming back from a killer day diving.
43. manuelaodell: Mt. David at Bates College after your last night of college.
44. Ghostfacekillen: On top of a volcano in Guatemala.
45. imissutila: On the dock outlooking the open sea.
46. Ruffian: From the breakfast nook of my mansion.
47. Yonatan Weic: On an iceberg.
48. Ella Viaja: Siem Reap with close friends….
49. Martin Nielsen: From a mountaintop in El Pauji (Southern Venezuela), the sun will rise over the Amazon rain forest.
50. Brucini: Don’t do sunrise much.

Community Connection

Whose entry is your favorite? Stoke them up by sending a private message or leaving a comment on their profile page. Of course, you’ll have to join the community first.

Not that they don’t deserve it, of course. But let’s all agree we know what they look like. Instead, here are some lesser-known natural wonders in the harsh, rugged land that is Australia.

This is my inspiration to return here and explore.

[Note: Most of these photos are licensed All Rights Reserved. Matador Trips received special permission from the photographers in these cases. Please note the license type before reusing any of the following images.]

1. Ningaloo Reef The reef, in Western Australia 1200 km north of Perth, is 260 kms long and is the only large reef located close to a landmass. Photo: Gudge (All Rights Reserved)

2. Kakadu National Park The park is nearly 200 km north-south and 100 km east-west and is just southeast of Darwin in the Northern Territory. It’s home to four major river systems, six major landforms, and a gazillion species of wildlife.
Photo: Flemming Bo Jensen (All Rights Reserved)

3. Katherine Gorge Located in the Nitmiluk National Park in Northern Territory, the gorge follows the Katherine River, which starts in Kakadu. The relatively safe freshwater crocs may be found in most parts of the river.
Photo: Brigitte Segers (All Rights Reserved)

4. Pinnacles Desert The Pinnacles in Western Australia are part of the Nambung National Park. Scientists know what the limestone formations are made of, but can’t agree on the mechanism of how they were produced. Photo: jhenn6550 (All Rights Reserved)

5. Coorong National Park In South Australia, southeast of Adelaide, where the Murray River meets the sea. This spot in Goolwa is known locally as “Beacon 19″ — popular for fishing.
Photo: Michael SA (All Rights Reserved)

6. Arnhem Land Not an easy place to get to, but an amazingly large — about the size of Florida & New Jersey combined — untouched piece of Australia in the Northern Territory.
Photo: Taipan2007 (All Rights Reserved)

7. Kangaroo Island Cape Willoughby was the first lighthouse to be erected in South Australia, and lights the Backstairs Passage between Kangaroo Island and the mainland.
Photo: Charlie 2.0 (All Rights Reserved)

8. Cradle Mountain Located in the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park in Tasmania, the surrounding area has many options for walking, including the terminus for the Overland Track.
Photo: Stephen Barnett (Creative Commons)

9. Flinders Ranges After millions of years, the patterns of wear on the tops of this very hard rock shows in grooves. Must have been from eons of hail storms and freezing nights…water being limited in this area. South Australia. Photo: Raja Daja (All Rights Reserved)

10. Bungle Bungles Found in Western Australia, these unique landforms were given the name Purnululu by the Kija Aboriginal people. This shot taken in Piccaninny Creek. Photo: Flemming Bo Jensen (All Rights Reserved)

11. Cape York Peninsula A lonely mangrove tree at the bay right at the tip of Cape York in Far North Queensland. Photo: Flemming Bo Jensen (All Rights Reserved)

12. Simpson Desert This desert is within the boundaries of three states: Northern Territory, South Australia, and Queensland. It contains the world’s longest parallel sand dunes. Photo: jwbenwell (Creative Commons)

Community Connection

If you’re heading Down Under, make sure to give these resources a read:

15 Things You Can’t Miss in Australia

Learn to Surf in Byron Bay, Australia

Roadtrip Australia: Melbourne to Sydney Along the Sapphire Coast

The Nullarbor: Crossing Australia’s Biggest, Baddest Road

Western Australia: 10 Places You Don’t Want to Miss

Ever played Falling Sand? There’s nothing so satisfying as creating a technicolor sand-sculpture masterpiece and blowing it to smithereens with some explosive mouse-clicking. But where does all that sweet, colored sand come from? Not food coloring, but from the world’s intersections of earth and ocean where crashing waves turn dense minerals and matter into tiny grains. And despite what your color-by-number book tells you, it’s not all yellow.

1. Red sand, Kaihalulu, Maui, Hawaii
When a a breach in the Earth’s crust lets loose a geyser of magma, the volcanic ash and material has to go somewhere, and, quite often, forms a massive conical structure called a cinder cone. At Kaihalulu Beach, an ancient cinder cone crumbles into a bay as the tide erodes it further, ensuring its inevitable total destruction. In the meantime, the sediment from the cinder cone forms this beach of red sand.
Photo: xoque

Photo: Masao.M

LAST JULY I asked the question, Would You Hike Uluru?

It sparked a furious debate with many people firmly against it:

Climbing Uluru is pretty much the most ignorant thing you can do.*

while other commenters justified it:

if you’ve already stepped foot on the land at Uluru – Kata Tjuta, you may as well carry on and do the climb, I say.*

In January this year, Peter Garrett, current Environment Minister and former lead singer of the politically charged Midnight Oil, overruled the proposal, but he didn’t shut the door on it.

The issue can be revisited, and the climb potentially closed, if one of these three conditions is met in the future:

1. The number of people climbing Uluru drops from the current 38 percent of visitors to fewer than 20 percent.
2. The attraction of the climb is no longer the primary reason visitors travel to Uluru.
3. A range of new experiences are put in place for visitors.

Hmm. Number one is straight forward enough. But how do you prove the second condition? Will there now be questionnaires presented to everyone asking why, exactly, they are here? And when they say “visitors” are they talking about ALL visitors? Or is there a threshold?

As for number three, what would that look like? Should they build a rollercoaster to replace the climb? Maybe ATV rides around the rock, while shooting at cardboard cutouts of kangaroos that pop up form the ground? (After all, shooting real kangaroos is cruel.)

I wouldn’t hold my breath.

*These are partial comments only. For full context please read the article and comments in full.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Does the overrule anger you? Is Minister Garrett making a mistake? Or is this a reasonable (temporary) resolution to this heated issue?

Photo: shanta

The Canadian federal government has decided to take 11,000 square kilometres of boreal forest in the Mealy Mountains area of Newfoundland and Labrador and turn it into a national park.

The region is home to several threatened species, including caribou, moose, black bears, and harlequin ducks, and it’s hoped the new designation will protect this wildlife while also preserving the area’s traditional culture. People here live close to the land, chopping wood, hunting, trapping, and fishing.

There are also plans put forward by the provincial government to establish a waterway provincial park along the Eagle River, which runs next to the national park. Together, these parks will total 13,000 square kilometres of protected landscape.

That’s a lot of territory.

To put it in perspective: Mealy Mountains National Park will become Atlantic Canada’s largest park and will be bigger than Yellowstone and Yosemite combined.

Photo: dsearls

The Canadian Boreal Initiative has long recognized the importance of preserving the boreal forests of Canada.

Ontario, Quebec, Manitoba, and the Northwest Territories have already started conservation planning to cover a total of 200 million acres, stretching from Newfoundland and Labrador to Alaska and exceeding the Amazon Rainforest in size and carbon storage.

And, with the smaller provincial park added on, this reserve is going to have some serious outdoors potential. According to the Protected Areas Association, Mealy Mountains should attract plenty of paddlers, snowshoers, cross-country skiers, hikers, and wildlife photographers.

The federal government was smart to initiate such a massive undertaking, and let’s hope the result is an influx of tourism to this gorgeous, under-appreciated part of Canada.

Community Connection

Perhaps Mealy Mountains will make Matador’s next list of the Seven Best National Parks for Visiting Old Growth Forests.

Photo: rappensuncle

KEN BURNS’S recent national parks documentary, America’s Best Idea, brought new eyes to Yosemite National Park in California and Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona. A Yosemite park ranger recently told the AP that the series has resulted in a noticeable increase in park attendance.

But national parks like these can overshadow their smaller counterparts in the same area: the state parks of the American Southwest and West Coast.

Due to severe budget cuts, the Arizona State Parks Board plans to close 13 of its state parks between February and June. Other state park systems, including California’s, have struggled with budget cuts.

Every park offers something different. If you’re heading to the region, support the state park systems with your feet. Here are 10 that are especially worth a visit:

Photo: SearchNetMedia

Arizona

Like the more crowded Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico, Kartchner Caverns State Park near Benson is full of stalactites and stalagmites that have been growing for tens of thousands of years. Check out the video tour at their website.

Designated a state park in 1988, the Kartchner caverns contain one of the world’s longest “soda straw” stalactites at 21 feet, 3 inches. Two cavers discovered the caverns in 1974, but they kept their discovery a secret for four more years before telling property owners James and Lois Kartchner.

Another Arizona contender is Slide Rock State Park in Sedona, which gets its name from a natural chute of slippery rock that runs through Oak Creek. In warm weather, visitors use the rock chute as a water slide.

Named by Life Magazine as one of the most beautiful swimming holes in America, the park also maintains an apple orchard irrigated by a unique system developed by the land’s original owner, Frank Pendley, who acquired the farm under the Homestead Act in 1910.

Photo: Phospheros

California

As the oldest state park in California (established 1902), Big Basin Redwoods State Park protects a grove of ancient coast redwoods similar to those found in Muir Woods National Monument. Both areas are an easy drive from San Francisco.

Visitors to Big Basin will experience different elevations — from sea level to more than 2,000 feet — as well as significant temperature changes between ocean shores and the tops of ridges. Like other old-growth coastal forests, the park is also habitat to deer, fox, many bird species, and banana slugs.

Farther up the coast, Salt Point State Park includes one of the first underwater parks in the state (Gerstle Cove Marine Reserve).

Some of the sandstone in this park experiences natural weathering that creates a honeycomb pattern in the rock known as “tafoni.” San Francisco used the sandstone to construct its buildings and streets in the 1800s.

Nevada

The attractions at Nevada’s largest and oldest park, Valley of Fire State Park, include rock formations shaped like an elephant, beehives, and a piano. Close to both Lake Mead and Las Vegas, Valley of Fire also preserves petroglyphs, or rock art, from Ancient Puebloan civilizations.

Similar to Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona, there are areas in Valley of Fire covered with 225-million-year-old petrified logs from a long-extinct woodland. In Nevada Magazine’s “Best of Nevada 2009” survey, Valley of Fire State Park won the “Best State Park” category for the southern division.

Photo: Alaskan Dude

Nearby Cathedral Gorge State Park, in Panaca, was covered by a freshwater lake during the Pliocene Era. After the lake receded, erosion of the soft bentonite clay resulted in unique rock spires and other formations. In the 1920s, visitors held outdoor performances with the landscape as a backdrop.

Cathedral Gorge was the statewide runner-up for “Best State Park” in the Nevada Magazine survey.

New Mexico

Near Truth or Consequences, Elephant Butte Lake State Park gets its name from an animal-shaped island in the middle of Elephant Butte Reservoir that was once the core of a volcano.

In this area of the state, archaeologists have discovered the fossilized remains of dinosaurs, including Tyrannosaurus Rex. Others include the stegomastadon, an ancestor of modern-day elephants — a fact not known when the butte was named.

Not far away, Hurley’s City of Rocks State Park protects rare rock formations that look like chimneys. These monoliths formed from volcanic ash 35 million years ago and only exist in six other places in the world.

Because of its clear view of the night sky, City of Rocks also has a small, state-operated astronomical observatory on site.

Photo: jakesmome

Utah

Millions of years of wind and rain have sculpted the rock at Goblin Valley State Park, near Hanksville, into thousands of mushroom-shaped pinnacles. Very remote, this park served as the on-location setting for portions of the 1999 film Galaxy Quest.

Last year, Reserve America named Goblin Valley one of “America’s Top 100 Family Campgrounds,” selected based on its scenery, amenities, and educational programs.

In the town of Boulder, also in southern Utah, Anasazi State Park preserves one of the largest Puebloan sites west of the Colorado River. Known as the Coombs site, the 100+ excavated buildings from the 12th and 13th centuries could have housed hundreds of residents.

Located near what archaeologists consider the border between Ancient Puebloan and Fremont cultures, the resulting “melting pot” explains the broad range of artifacts left at the site.

Do you have a favorite state park in the American West? Share it with readers in the comments.

Community Connection

Plan a “Best of the Southwest” tour with the help of Matador’s Top 7 Summer Road Trips in the US / Canada.

Photo: alexindigo

TWO DOLLARS is the main unit of currency in Chile. The luka (1,000 pesos) is our smallest bill, and as of January, 2010, a luka is worth just about two bucks. It’s what Chileans consider cheap-but-fair for an event, and pricing one at 1,000 pesos or less is a great way to draw folks in.

A successful new program called Yoga a Luka hosts yoga classes all over the city (and in other regions) for 1,000 pesos, and there’s also the summertime arts program of Santiago a Mil (Santiago for 1,000 pesos).

Anyway, one luka is about what it costs to get out of the oven of the Santiago summer and up into the city’s cool backyard — the Andean foothills. With some basic camping gear, a pair of decent walking shoes, and the highest SPF you can find, 1,000 pesos buys a mountain getaway.

Photo: author

Saltos de Apoquindo: Getting There

There’s Parque Mahuida and its access to Cerro San Ramón, the peaks of Provincia or Pochoco, or even Manquehuito and its big brother, the ill-advised-to-climb-alone Manquehue (assaults are an ongoing problem there). But in the dry heat of summer, my friends and I went with the waterfall — Saltos de Apoquindo.

You start out, BIP (like a fast pass) card in hand, at your closest metro and take the red line (línea 1) to the brand-new terminal station, Los Dominicos. This is also home to a craft market whose artisans set up in an old cloister, selling carvings, leather, and Pomaire terra cotta.

Bypass the market and take your free transfer to the 421 bus (or the C02 or C02c), which after another ten to fifteen minutes will drop you at San Carlos de Apoquindo.

From there, sign in with the guards (you need to leave your passport or ID number with them, and they’ll ask you for a phone number as well), and tell them you’re going to the sendero (trail), should they ask.

It’s then about a ten-minute paved walk uphill to the trail head, labeled Reserva Ecológica Contrafuertes Cordillerano, where there’s a basic map of the area (might want to snap a picture here in case you get lost, as the trail is marked but still possible to lose).

Photo: author

The Hike

It’s not just the watefall that attracted me to this trail. Having grown up hiking in New England, I’m not a “straight up the mountain” kind of trekker, as many of the hikes in the central region of Chile tend to demand.

This one meanders, following the folds of the mountain, and has significant downhill portions even on the way “up.” There’s shade, but no water until you get to the falls, which are potable, though you might still want to treat the water before drinking if you’re antsy (we didn’t).

Depending on your pace, expect 3-5 hours to reach the falls. The trail is in pretty good shape, has few areas of loose rocks, and can absolutely be hiked in a pair of running shoes, if that’s what you’ve got.

Warning: the litre tree causes a poison-ivy-like reaction in some unfortunate hikers, so you’ll want to keep clear. Or at least greet the tree (a hearty “Hola Señor Litre” will suffice) as tradition dictates.

Towards the end you’ll need to rockhop across the water’s downward flow, and this will get you close to the bottom of the falls. It looks its best in the morning, with the sun climbing up the notch in the mountain where it pours through.

Photo: author

Staying or Leaving

While camping isn’t technically permitted, there are established fire circles and a few signs that other humans have spent the night. Packing out all your trash and proper disposal of waste are a must, as there are no facilities.

You can follow the trail back the way you came, or ask a passing huaso (Chile’s version of the Argentine gaucho) for directions. We met one up top, who lip-pointed us down towards another path, across the flat site people use as a campsite.

This trail had views falling to the right, along the Precordillera, of numerous other waterfalls, and a little stand of trees where we cooked and ate lunch before continuing out.

Several hours later (again, 3-5 is a good range), we came out past terraced plantings and finally to a different trail head, this time at an area called Aguas de San Ramón.

Here you can slip through the gate, walk five long blocks downhill to the Plaza La Reina, catch the D08 bus to the metro at Bilbao on the blue line, and do the whole thing in reverse. Sneers at your dusty backpack and air of self-satisfaction should be expected.

That’s my best $2 travel tip. What’s yours?

Community Connection

For another Santiago sidetrip, check out our guide to Cajón del Maipo.

Other hiking tips: Where to Hike After You’ve Finished the Appalachian Trail and the travel video Notes on Hiking up Mount Rainier.

Photo: cogdogblog

A SPECIAL SESSION of the Arizona State Legislature cut an additional $8.6 million from the budget of the Arizona State Parks Board in December. Now, the department says it has no choice but to close 13 more state parks, leaving only 9 open.

Our gate fee funds, conservation funds, and donations were so severely swept that now we have an imminent cash flow crisis and a downward spiral in the very revenues that we desperately need to keep the system operating.

• Executive Director Renée Bahl, January 12 press release

The department plans to close the 13 state parks in three phases:

February 22 Closures

Homolovi Ruins State Park – “Homolovi” means “Place of the Little Hills” in Hopi. The park in Winslow preserves pottery, stone, and other remnants of this migration stopoff area, used by the Hopi until the late 1300s.

Lyman Lake State Park – Located in St. Johns, Lyman Lake protects 1,200 acres along the shore of a reservoir fed by snowmelt from Escudilla Mountain and Mount Baldy, two of the highest peaks in Arizona.

Riordan Mansion State Historic Park – The same man who created the El Tovar Hotel on the rim of the Grand Canyon designed the residential home in this Flagstaff historic park.

Jerome State Historic Park / Photo: designatednaphour

March 29 Closures

Fort Verde State Historic Park – This Campe Verde park contains a fort that dates from the Indian Wars, with several original buildings still standing.

Roper Lake State Park – Roper, located in the small southeastern city of Safford, encompasses its namesake lake as well as natural hot springs.

Tombstone Courthouse State Historic Park – A silver mining town in the Old West, Tombstone once served as the seat of Cochise County. Now, the historic park preserves the old courthouse and history of this frontier town.

Tubac Presidio State Historic Park – The Tubac park is made up of the remnants of a Spanish frontier settlement from the 1700s.

Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park – During its 33 years of operation, the prison housed 3,069 prisoners charged with crimes ranging from polygamy to murder. It closed in 1909.

June 3 Closures

Alamo Lake State Park – Located in Wenden, this park protects a lake formed by the Army Corps of Engineers’ 1968 Alamo Dam Project. The dam provides flood control for the Bill Williams River — the lake once rose 11 vertical feet in one night.

Lost Dutchman State Park – In Apache Junction near Phoenix, Lost Dutchman takes its name from a gold mine that in the 1800s was rumored to exist in the nearby Superstition Mountains.

Picacho Peak / Photo: kevindooley

Picacho Peak State Park – Used as a landmark for thousands of years, the “peak” in this park formed from ancient lava and rises 1,500 feet.

Red Rock State Park – The State Parks Board acquired this park’s 286 acres in 1986 but didn’t open it to the public until 1991. Since Oak Creek cuts through the park, its educational programs focus on riparian habitats — the interplay between stream and land.

Tonto Natural Bridge State Park – This park in Payson protects what may be the world’s largest natural travertine bridge. In 1877, a prospector hid from Apaches for several days in a cave inside the bridge, then claimed squatter’s rights to the valley that surrounds it.

More info

Four park units already shut down will remain that way: Jerome State Historic Park, McFarland State Historic Park, Oracle State Park, and San Rafael State Natural Area.

On the January 25 edition of PBS’s Horizon, Bahl told host Ted Simons she remains hopeful that the board can work out an arrangement with the legislature or local governments to keep some of the parks open. If not, they’ll remain closed until funds become available again.

In the long run, many months or maybe a year out, we would hope to bring in another park or two onto the system,” Bahl said. “You can cut our budget, but you can’t cut our spirit.

Community Connection

California’s having similar problems. Read about them in Budget Cuts Burn California’s State Parks.

Photo: slopjop

North America

Canada counts more than 150 glaciers, including those in vast Nunavut, but most of the easiest-to-visit are located in the well-touristed Canadian Rockies, like Jasper National Park’s Athabasca Glacier.

Athabasca creeps down from the Columbia Icefield and is reached via the Icefields Highway. Its accessibility makes it the most-visited glacier in North America. There are walking tours, as well as snow coaches.

In the U.S. Lower 48, Glacier National Park in Montana has more than 700 miles of trails through valleys that were carved by its original 150 glaciers. Unfortunately, only two dozen remain today, and those are going fast.

The United States Geological Service estimates that if current warming trends continue, by the year 2030 all the glaciers in this park will have disappeared.

Alaska’s ice is in better shape. There’s Portage Glacier in the mountains overlooking Anchorage’s bedroom community of Girdwood, and 27-mile-long Matanuska, just a two-hour drive from Alaska’s main city on the Glenn Highway. Great views of this one on the approach.

Down towards the capital, the 1,500-sq-mile Juneau Icefield is the parent field of Mendenhall Glacier, just to the north of the city on Glacier Highway.

Mexico can’t be left out here — it has a couple clinging to the upper slopes of its taller mountains, such as Pico de Orizaba in the state of Puebla.

Photo: basheertome

From the Piedra Grande hut, hikers can reach Jamapa Glacier on a full-day, round-trip hike. Crampons and ice axes required, ice screws and ropes recommended.

And then there’s Greenland. It’s got its own ice sheet, but many of the glaciers flowing out of it are far from human settlement and prohibitively expensive to visit.

The best option may be Narsarsuaq, just a few hours’ walk from the town of the same name in southern Greenland. Six-hour guided treks on the glacier itself can be arranged.

Europe

Glaciers are common in many countries in Europe, but most are found in these three:

Switzerland: The Great Aletsch Glacier is the largest in the Alps and part of the Jungfrau-Aletsch Protected Area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It’s located between Berne and the canton of Valais, and there’s good access from two mountain huts, Konkordia and Hollandia. Experienced hikers with appropriate gear use these as bases for up-close visits to Great Aletsch.

Norway: Jostedal National Park surrounds the glacier of Jostedal, the largest in continental Europe. The park is seven hours from Oslo or five hours from Bergen by bus — from mid-June to mid-September, the Glacier Bus runs the route.

Photo: m.prinke

Other popular glaciers include Vestre Svartisen in the country’s north, known for it’s dark blue hues and which ends just 20 feet above sea level, and Folgefonna, the third-largest glacier in Norway.

Folgefonna is easily accessible, with tour companies picking up at the Bergen bus station.

These trips include a quick cruise across the fjord and 4-5 hours of ice time. For more local travel tips, check out What NOT to Do in Norway.

Iceland: Just two hours from Reykjavik, Sólheimajökull is a popular destination for tours. Plenty of folks also strap on crampons with the Icelandic Mountain Guides near a Skaftafell National Park campsite to clamber up Svínafellsjökull.

A full 8% of Iceland is covered by the massive Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. It sees plenty of visitors and can be trekked, skidoo-ed, snowmobiled, or even explored on a “superjeep-safari.”

Asia

Though many Asian nations have well-developed tourism infrastructure, the majority of glaciers in India, Pakistan, China, Tibet, Nepal, Tajikistan, Mongolia, Bhutan, and Indonesia require some determination to reach.

Photo: *_*

In the Indian state of Uttarakhand, there’s Gangotri Glacier, principal source of the Ganges River and a site of Hindu pilgrimage, where the devout bathe in the icy melt.

Neighboring Pakistan has outfitters that run 2+ week trips to the Hunza Valley to hike Batura Glacier, which at more than 35 miles in length is one of the longest glaciers outside of the Arctic and Antarctic.

It’s ringed by 22,000-foot peaks, though much of the trek is through an ablation valley at around 10,000 feet or lower.

Baltoro Glacier is the one at the foot of K2, the second tallest mountain in the world. It remains somewhat inaccessible, for both geographic and geopolitical reasons.

Nepal has high-mountain glaciers that require numerous days of trekking to access, and which generally must be done on organized tours. Standard trips run from 10 to 28 days with varying degrees of difficulty.

Thirty percent of visitors to Nepal come for the Annapurna Circuit, which brings you to within sight of several glaciers.

The Rongbuk Glacier in the Tibetan Himalayas is traversed by hikers and climbers to gain access to Everest’s Advanced Base Camp, but otherwise is not easy to get to.

Photo: yanyin

China makes things a bit easier. Hailuogou National Glacier Forest Park is located in Sichuan Province, less than 200 miles from Chengdu.

It’s the largest such park in China, with trails to the Hailuogou Glacier, a glacial lake, hot springs, Mount Gonggar, and the Grand Glacier Cascade, where glacial ice drops towards the forest below.

Community Connection

Make sure to check out Matador Sports editor Adam Roy’s Photo Essay: Trekking Ice in Los Glaciares National Park. Then pop over to MatadorTV, home of the best travel video on the Web, for Ice Trekking on the Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia.

Photo: Sara&Joachim

[Editor's note: We've been consistently impressed by the writing talent and exchange of ideas coming out of our community site. To make sure more of these ideas, photos, and blogs reach more people, we've begun pulling the best of the community blogs, like this one, into the Network sites. Hope you enjoy, and hope you join the Matador Community!]

THE PARK WAS ESTABLISHED in 1925 (Africa’s first) to protect the gorillas from poachers and was made famous in the 1960s by the tireless work and advocacy of Dian Fossey. Today, the Rwanda Tourism Board offers several options for tracking gorillas and exploring the park.

The highlight of the park is undoubtedly the gorillas themselves — however, the experience comes with a price.

Standard fare is to pay $500 for an hour of observing and photographing gorillas in the wild. What the tourism board likes to keep on the mum is the fact that there are other much more economical activities.

Photo: Author

Park rangers will take visitors on one- and two-day treks to summit extinct volcanoes, on guided walks to Dian Fossey’s camp and tomb, and even on tracking expeditions to find the Golden Monkey.

None of these cost more than $75, and since you’ll be in the heart of gorilla territory, the chance of spotting a family group is high.

The park is located in the village of Kinigi, about 25 minutes by motorbike from Ruhengeri. While Ruhengeri is a bustling market town and a good place to stock up on snacks and cash, it has little else to offer, so unless you arrive late and need a place for the night, I’d suggest moving on to Kinigi.

Where to crash

The Kinigi Guest House ($10-$85) is at the foot of the Virunga Mountains and just down the dirt road from park headquarters, making for easy day-time exploration and convenient early-morning departures. Accommodations range from pitching your own tent, to 4 person dorms, to luxury suites, and a simple breakfast is included.

Also, nearly all of the proceeds generated by the guesthouse are used to pay school fees for orphaned children and to support community development projects. Reservations are recommended, but as long as you’re flexible the staff can usually find a place for you to stay.

Photo: Author

Where to eat

The village center of Kinigi consists of a few small shops and a food stall or two. Kids kick around balls made from plastic bags and string, and adults walk to and from the fields, chatting idly.

Take a seat on one of the brightly colored plastic chairs and enjoy whatever happens to be on menu. That’ll most likely be ugali (maize flour dough) with greens and boiled plantains, and beans too if you’re lucky.

Most guesthouses also have their own restaurants, but eating in town gives you a better sense of what daily life is like in Kinigi.

Exploring the park on a budget

A solid $75 option is to trek Mount Bisoke (3,711m) on a long, strenuous day hike. It’s tough, but if you go in knowing that and have a moderate level of physical ability, you’ll be fine.

The trek follows trails created by buffalo — no switchbacks here, only steep inclines. During the rainy seasons (Mar-May, Oct-Nov), you can expect a lot of standing water and mud, so be sure to dress in layers and wear decent shoes.

Rangers have a tendency to downplay the length and difficulty of this hike — when they say it’s only 4 hours, they really mean 8. Bring food!

Photo: Author

This is gorilla territory, so there’s a very good chance you’ll encounter a family group at some point during the day.

However, because you haven’t purchased a permit, taking photos is a big no-no.

Your guide will kindly remind you of this should you spot the animals — take this seriously, as guides can lose their jobs over infractions.

The turnaround point is at the summit of Mt. Bisoke and its crater lake, with 360-degree views of green but still very active volcanic peaks. Just a few years ago, Mount Nyiragongo erupted, spilling molten rock through nearby towns and villages and devastating the region.

Whichever park activity you sign up for, you’ll meet at headquarters at 7am to pay your fees and listen to a quick orientation lecture.

The Mount Bisoke trek starts at the base of the volcano, about 45 minutes by car from headquarters. It’s expected that you have your own transportation to the trail head, but independent travelers can usually find an open seat in one of the vehicles leaving from the park. Just ask around.

Photo: mrflip

More tips

• Yeah, it’s a bummer not getting photos of the gorillas.

  But try this instead: buddy up to your bunk mates back at the guesthouse (the ones who paid the $500 for the photo expedition) and offer to buy a few rounds of Primus in exchange for a couple of their best pics.

• Rwanda is a MasterCard only country, but the park does not take credit or debit cards or any kind.
• US dollars are king. If you do pay in Rwandan Shillings, there’s an additional fee.

  Outside of Kigali (the capital), scoring USD is almost impossible, so come with cash in hand.

Community Connection

For another Matador community blog on Rwanda, check out Eva Holland’s Shake Hands With The Devil.

Photo: Da_Vinzy

ANGEL FALLS was named for American bush pilot Jimmie Angel, who did a fly-over in the ‘30s. It’s considered the highest single drop falls in the world at almost 1,000 meters, pouring from the Ayantepui mountain in Parque Nacional Canaima, in the Venezuelan state of Bolivar.

But, as The Guardian reported late last year, the country’s polemical president Hugo Chávez was planning to rename this natural wonder of South America Kerepakupai-Merú.

In later accounts Chávez appeared to take a step back, and now says that anyone who wants to use the name Angel Falls can continue to do so, but that Kerepakupai-Merú — which means “waterfall of the deepest place” in Pemón, a local indigenous language — is the correct nomenclature.

He goes on to say, in usual Chávez style, that those who claim he wanted to officially change the name are part of an opposition strategy to paint him as a lunatic, in order to justify removing him from power.

The 8-star Venezuelan flag, instituted in 2006 by
Hugo Chávez / Photo: AlejandroAndrés

Chávez does not deny wanting to remove American cultural influence from Venezuela.

Among other actions, the government has threatened to fine television stations that broadcast the American cartoon The Family Guy, and has recently come out against Sony’s PlayStation, saying it promotes violence so that capitalist countries can sell more weapons.

Certainly, changing the name of a historic or natural monument is within a country’s rights. While I lived in Washington, DC, the names of National Airport and the nearby metro stop were changed to Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport. There was an outcry from Democrats, and we all kept calling it National.

In Chile, we call everything by both its new name and ex name. Which leads to some real mouthfuls, like “Parque Padre Hurtado ex Intercomunal de La Reina.”

But what’s in a name, really? Next June to December (when the falls are at their most powerful), enjoy your trip to Kerepakupai-Merú ex Salto Ángel. Just leave your iPod with downloaded imperialist television programs and video games at home. It’d just get wet anyway.

Community Connection

Trips shows off Spectacular Waterfalls of the World, and Matador Pulse reports on a book exchange between Chávez and Obama in Could Chavez Save the Publishing Industry?

Photo: Author

Alone in the Cathedral

While the summer months buzz with excited hikers, the first snows of winter bring a calmness to Glacier National Park perfect for those looking to strap on snowshoes or cross-country skis.

Hearing nothing but the crunch of our shoes, my boyfriend Andy and I took off for a couple days into Glacier’s backcountry. We decided to make the 16+ mile round trip to Avalanche Lake and its snow-crusted mountains and icy waters.

Photo: Author

The Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Avalanche picnic area is relatively flat with gorgeous views of the south side of Lake McDonald, the North Fork of the Flathead, and the surrounding mountains. The road was still plowed, so we strapped our snowshoes to our packs and quickly hiked the 6 road miles to the deserted Avalanche camping area.

Leaving the gear, we continued the rest of the way to the lake on snowshoe. A few crunchy miles of powder later and the evergreens opened up to the frozen cathedral of Avalanche Lake, rugged peaks stretching to meet the clouds and iced-over waterfalls from nearby Sperry Glacier.

I’ve hiked this trail in the summer, when the shores are covered with eager tourists snapping photos. But this time we were the only ones taking in the view, our snowshoes cutting the first (human) tracks.

Back at camp, we set up under one of the massive cedars with only our own voices breaking the silent night. The Going-to-the-Sun Road was closed for winter at Lake McDonald Lodge, and there was a good two feet of snow on the trail — we didn’t see a single person for two days.

Montana Wildlife

But we weren’t alone.

When people think of Glacier, they think bears. While the park protects the core of one of the largest remaining grizzly bear populations in the Lower 48, in winter these animals are deep in hibernation. Their absence gives visitors an opportunity to watch for many other creatures that make up Glacier’s diverse ecosystem.

Birds and chipmunks chattered in the trees, and we stopped to examine deer, snowshoe hare, and even a cougar tracks. With fresh powder covering road and trail, winter makes it easy to track wildlife.

Photo: NathanF

Any time spent snowshoeing in the forest, lake shores, or even on the park road turns up evidence of wildlife passing through — and maybe a glimpse of the animals themselves. We were lucky enough to catch a young whitetail buck in the forest and a bald eagle gliding over Lake McDonald.

The cold and wind of the high country winter offer challenges greater than most animals (including humans) can cope with. While the park’s mountain goats and pikas stick to their high-alpine stomping grounds, the majority of animals that remain active in winter migrate to lower elevations for easier access to food and more protection from the elements. Your best bet to catch a glimpse of winter wildlife is by exploring the lowlands.

But no matter where your snowshoe trek takes you in the park, expect silence, solitude, and wildlife that only a winter wildland like Glacier can bring. Whether going for a quick day-hike to McDonald Falls, snow-camping at Avalanche Lake, or dropping down to Two Medicine, Glacier is one of the most spectacular winter destinations in the Lower 48.

Recommended Places to Explore

Apgar and West Glacier: Easily accessible from points west, West Glacier offers scenic lookouts and forested routes as well as guided snowshoe treks January through March. The Apgar Visitor Center also rents snowshoes.

Photo: Author

Lake McDonald and Avalanche: Gentle terrain, ample snow, and easy access to wonderful winter scenery make this the most popular skiing and snowshoeing area in the park.

Marias Pass: The area surrounding the summit of Marias Pass, locally called Summit, is another popular spot for snowshoeing and skiing. Conditions can get windy, but the snow is usually good here even when it’s not in other areas.

North Fork: A little off the beaten path, the meadows and lakes of North Fork provide breathtaking views of the North Fork of the Flathead, the Whitefish Range to the west, and the Livingston Range to the east.

St. Mary: Snowshoe across rolling terrain to a scenic bluff overlooking Red Eagle Creek to take in the great views of the mountains along St. Mary Lake and Red Eagle Valley. Or explore the aspen, meadows, and mixed conifer stands in the hills east of the lake.

Two Medicine: The Two Medicine Road provides easy access to rewarding snowshoeing and skiing when snow conditions are good. Accumulation is strongly influenced by wind, so check conditions before you go.

What to Bring

Snowshoes: While some of the trails are hikeable with a good pair of boots, snowshoes are crucial to reach the highlights of the park.

Winter boots and warm socks: Waterproof and insulated boots with a good pair of wool socks will make your outing much more pleasant.

Photo: briandrum

Layers: Weather in the park changes rapidly. We went from bundled in our down coats, to raingear, to stripping down to our capilene when breaking trail to the lake. Bring more than you think you need.

Food: Whether you’re camping or just heading out for the day, you’ll be burning calories. We chowed down on hot couscous and curried lentils for dinner and annihilated our bag of trail mix and dark chocolate.

Libations: Bring water. It’s easy to get dehydrated in the winter when you’re cold, so make sure to drink lots of water throughout the day. I also enjoy packing something a bit stronger to take the chill off a cold winter night. My favorite — brewed tea with honey and whiskey. Cheers!

Common sense: Snowshoeing is a spectacular adventure, but variable weather and unstable snowpack can make your hike treacherous. Check in with the ranger and sign in at the trailhead before you set out, and stay aware of changing conditions as you’re exploring.

Community Connection

Once you’re out of the woods and ready for a break, check out Montana Resorts: Treating Yourself Right in Big Sky Country.

And before your trip, get acquainted with Matador’s Montana destination experts, who are happy to take your questions about the region.

Photo: doug88888

Glacial ice is the largest reservoir of fresh water on earth, and while many glaciers are shrinking at rates that have us reaching for our hip waders, there’s still plenty of ice around for those interested in seeing one of nature’s wonders up close.

To hike on the glaciers proper, you’ll most likely want to join a tour, follow marked routes carefully, and ensure you have adequate gear.

Even onlookers should wear shades with UV protection and bring along high-SPF sunblock (don’t forget the underside of your chin and nose!). Waterproof clothing is essential.

Here are some of the Southern Hemisphere’s most accessible glaciers.

Photo: doug88888

Argentina

Though Bolivia, Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Chile all have towering walls of ice, Argentina’s Perito Moreno glacier is one of South America’s best, most visited, and easiest to get to.

Perito Moreno is located in Los Glaciares National Park, just 50 well-paved miles from Argentina’s southern outpost El Calafate.

Chill at the wooden viewpoints, take a quick boat ride around the lagoon, or head out onto the ice itself. Hielo y Aventura, out of Ushuaia, is one of many tour companies you can book with for an up to seven hour walk on the glacier, capped with a celebratory drink of whiskey.

To get in the mood, check out this Photo Essay: Trekking Ice in Los Glaciares National Park.

Photo: anoldent

New Zealand

Two of the most accessible glaciers in the world — Franz Josef and Fox — are located near the rainy west coast of New Zealand’s South Island.

Each is located around three miles from their respective closest towns, which are also named for the glaciers.

You can take walking tours to the first icefall on Franz Josef, although some of its 2,700 daily visitors prefer a helicopter tour to gain more altitude with less effort. Some of the guided walks pass through ice tunnels.

Fox Glacier is less developed, receiving a maximum of 1,000 tourists daily in recent years.

Both glaciers flow from high atop the mountains and come within 1,000 feet of lush rainforests.

During growth periods they can advance up to 2.5 feet per day, which is a near land-speed record for glaciers.

Photo: telethon

Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda

Perhaps not the first continent you’d think of for ice hunting, Africa has three countries that are home to glaciers that, since they are found at high altitudes, are a little tougher to reach than those above.

Kenya’s Mt. Kenya, Mt. Kilamanjaro in Tanzania, and the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda are all home to glacial ice.

With global warming driving the rapid shrinking of these tropical glaciers, now is a good time to lace up the hiking boots and go for a long walk.

Organized treks making finding the ice a bit easier, but take note: you still need to be in great shape.

Photo: elisfanclub

Antarctica

Not surprisingly, the “white continent” is home to a few hundred glaciers, but none are easily accessible.

Some cruise ships make landings and take passengers over snowy areas, though these are not glaciers; they’re simply compacted snow that’s turned to ice and moves slowly over land in areas where snowfall exceeds melt over long periods of time.

One option for getting a little closer to the glaciers is a trekking-oriented Antarctic cruise.

Adventure Smith Explorations offers a landing in Neko Harbor where in good weather you will have great views of the glaciers.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Have you discovered MatadorTV yet? It’s got the best travel video around, both from around the ‘net and originals. Here are a few snowy vids that make for good winter — or southern summer — viewing:

The Dark Side of Everest Part 1

Dope Free Ski Photo Shoot by Chase Jarvis

“The Sharp End”: Tribute to Rock Climbing Giants

Hiking to wolf #9’s den, Lamar Valley / Photo: aperturegirl

[Editor's Note: This post is sponsored by our friends at the State of Montana.]

Wolf mating season is nigh in Yellowstone National Park. As the Druid pack descends on a herd of elk for a kill, an interloper, a lone wolf trying to ingratiate himself with the pack, waves his tail playfully, like a flag, to win the graces of potential mates. The alpha male moves to drive him off. The elk herd splits like two schools of fish. For now, the wolves stay hungry on the frozen volcanic slope.

Meanwhile, the remnant human population in the park is more welcoming to newcomers. Beginning in mid-December, snow coaches — motorized over-snow vehicles — ferry human visitors through the valleys and over the plateaus of the country’s oldest national park to the Old Faithful Snow Lodge.

Along the way, naturalists, park rangers, and concessionaires help visitors in their quest to witness wildlife in action — without the cars and crowds of summer.

Photo: emerald isle druid

Meeting Yellowstone’s wolves

“Food for the Masses” is the name of a wolf-watching experience organized by the Yellowstone Association Institute, with headquarters located on Park Street in Gardiner, Montana — the gateway to the national park headquarters at Mammoth Hot Springs, some five miles up Grand Loop Road.

The Lamar Valley’s historic Buffalo Ranch, in the remote northeast corner of the park, where wolves were first reintroduced in 1995, is the hub for wolf watching in Yellowstone.

But the park’s north entrance is the first step to a winter wonderland with a wild twist. A change is felt simply passing through the historic Roosevelt Arch, most recently featured in the Ken Burns’ documentary, The National Parks: America’s Best Idea.

“Students go to the sites of wolf kills to count scavengers on the kill,” said Chuck Snover with the Yellowstone Association Institute. Finding the hollowed-out carcass of an elk brought down by wolves, then finished up by ravens and other critters, is not an uncommon experience in the company of a naturalist.

“The way it was opened up like a clam shell … that was incredible,” said Andrew Suk, a student warming up at the Lamar Ranger Station after visiting an elk carcass during a week-long program based out of Buffalo Ranch, which is operated by the institute.

Photo: Author

Nathan Varley, who led Suk and his group to view wolves in early December, is co-owner of The Wild Side Wildlife Tours, together with his wife Linda Thurston. Food for the Masses and other programs provide an opportunity for visitors to the park to participate in the science of the park’s wolf recovery project.

“Mainly it’s about learning and trying to view the wolves,” said Varley, 41, who was raised in the park, and has a PhD in wolf ecology. The main winter drama, he said, is watching males trying to assimilate prior to mating season.

Despite the remoteness, short days, and inhospitable weather of the Lamar Valley in winter, even visitors from the concrete jungle will find an unexpected coziness with the experience of a guided winter safari tour — especially if one is wearing heavily insulated clothing.

More than wolves

Aside from the black wolves of the Druid pack, there is also the possibility of spotting bighorn sheep. What is almost assured, even on the snowiest day, is a good look at the herds of elk and bison ranging in the valleys and volcanic plateaus of the park.

Photo: exquisitur

But don’t forget binoculars. The action is fleeting, and proper etiquette for those without a spotting scope is to wait, as patiently as possible, for a more prepared visitor to offer use of his or her equipment.

It’s also possible to pop into the park for a solo winter wildlife glimpse — on snowshoes or cross-country skis, for example. But whatever your means of conveyance, considering the drive required to reach Yellowstone, it’s worth committing a few days to the experience.

Practicalities

Gardiner is 56 miles south of Livingston on Interstate 90, 77 miles from Bozeman and 129 miles from Billings.

Tours can be arranged through various guide services in the area, but the easiest way to get the low-down on wolves and other wildlife is to make a stop at the Yellowstone Association Institute headquarters by the Roosevelt Arch in Gardiner, five miles from Yellowstone National Park Headquarters at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Be sure to fortify beforehand with a meal at the Town Café, to the left of the t-intersection where State Highway 89 meets Park Street. (The Yellowstone Association and the Roosevelt Arch are to the right.)

The café is a popular local watering hole and a good place to bend the ear of a naturalist who might help enrich your visit. Afterwards, when you’re ready to brag about wolf sightings, try the Rusty Nail at the Best Western in Gardiner.

If winter driving doesn’t suit, grab a couple of friends and take the Greyhound to Livingston. The trip to the Lamar Valley is accessible even for bus travelers. Amazing Taxi owner, Carrie Pintar, can take up to seven passengers and is willing to negotiate a round-trip shuttle price to Gardiner or Mammoth. Her number is 406-223-5344.

Community Connection

Matador’s Montana resource page is a key stop for travelers planning a winter trip to the Big Sky State. You can also get answers to specific questions by contacting our knowledgeable Montana destination experts, just one of many features that make the Matador community such a vibrant place.

Photo: Landii

Getting There

Getting to Plitvice (pronounced plit-veet-seh) is pretty easy. Just jump into a car and follow the road signs. The other option is to take the bus. However, the lakes are in the middle of the run, so while the bus will drop you off, full buses won’t always stop on the way back.

Photo: arny978

Tip: Rentals are available at local airports. Hit the tourist office for more information on tourist taxis and tour buses.

Tickets and Routes

There are two entry points to the park. Both come with parking facilities, a money exchange center, and a ticketing office. High season tickets are priced at 110 Kuna (15 Euros) for adults and 55 Kuna (7.5 Euros) for kids.

The park also offers a number of hiking routes: the shortest one runs through the park within ninety minutes while the longest takes about 6-8 hours.

The Regenerating Karstic Basin

Plitvice is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Its unique features — the natural barriers, pools, cascades, caves, and crags — are a result of thousands of years of interaction between water and the dolomite rock and limestone that form the lake’s continuously evolving Karstic basin; come back in a few hundred years and chances are you won’t recognize the place.

The Upper & Lower Lakes

The Upper Lakes are formed on a lush dolomite valley. They’re surrounded by dense forests, and trails run through giant fir, beech, and spruce trees. A system of wooden walkways, stairways, and dirt trails lead you along the water, past waterfalls and cascades.

Photo: 29cm

Expect to see all different shades of blue and green; the position of the sun dictates the ever-changing hues.

The Lower Lakes are shallower and are formed on limestone beds. Along the edges, white limestone walls rise up; red smoke bush grows along the stone in patches and caves break through at regular intervals.

From the wooden walkways, you can stare right down at the lake’s floor, tracking every pebble and fish. At times they’ll stare back at you.

Tip: Many people toss coins into the water for luck. Don’t — it disrupts the ecosystem.

Local Wildlife

The Plitvice Lakes are home to many rare and endangered animals and plant life, from unusual flowers and butterflies to rare birds and small cats. It’s said the endangered European brown bear is a resident too.

Photo: arny978

That said, the closest I’ve come to seeing a mid-sized animal here was a giant Labrador, on a leash, pouncing at a duck floating a little too close to the trail (the duck got away — the dog got drenched).

Rest Up and Have a Picnic

A large picnic area is spread out along the edge of Lake Kozjak, the big lake separating the two parts of the park.

The break is perfectly timed too; it shows up just as hikers are beginning to tire and complain.

Okay, that’s just me. But the spread — grilled sausages, burgers, fries, homemade bread — helps power the remainder of the hike.

Hotels and Camps

If you want spend a few days here, there are hotels within the park limits and camping grounds beyond.

Photo: Darij & Ana

You can’t tell now but during the Balkan conflict of the early ’90s these facilities were used as barracks.

The entire region suffered great damage. A major clean-up operation and stringent environmental laws since the war have allowed the park and park facilities to return to their former glory.

Tip: Rooms for rent open up during the summer in the surrounding villages.

Last on the itinerary, stop at one of the wooden strukli (strudel) stalls at the park entrance on the way back. Take a minute to reflect over a slice (apple, cheese, and something red, either berries or plum) before hitting the road.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

What can I say? We obviously like lakes and national parks. Check ‘em out:

Introducing Lake Tourism

From Packed to Deserted: U.S. National Parks by Visitor Numbers

Seven Best National Parks for Visiting Old Growth Forests

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which despite being the most visited, still reserves space for the soloist. / Photo: Kat Martin

The mission of the U.S. National Park Service is to safeguard America’s special places “so that all may experience our heritage.” Some of that heritage is experienced more than the rest.

The LA Times Travel section has lists of the country’s most- and least-trafficked parks, using 2009 visitor numbers through the month of August. Here’s how the rankings fall:

The Packed

1. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, TN/NC

Easy access from the Mid-Atlantic, Southeast, and Midwest, plus a well-maintained system of roads that makes it possible to get a “park experience” without straying 100 meters from your vehicle, equaled 6.4 million visitors in the first eight months of 2009.

Of course, as with any national park, it’s also gorgeous. If you’re thinking of checking it out but are worried about getting caught in the mob, I offer some tips on my personal blog in the post Cracking the Shell: How to Enjoy Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Photo: eva101

2. Grand Canyon National Park, AZ

The attraction here is obvious, and more than 3 million people thought it was worth the journey earlier this year.

That might sound like a lot, but the canyon is 277 miles long, and there are lots of trails down into its 6,000ft mouth — plenty of opportunities to lose the crowds.

3. Yosemite National Park, CA

Yosemite is one of the world’s richest national parks, a great place to get close to the edge, and has some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, earning it the list’s #3 spot.

Make sure to click over to MatadorTV for the travel video Road Trip America: Yosemite with Joshywashington.

The Deserted

1. Kobuk Valley National Park, AK

Kobuk, the size of Delaware and sitting just inside the Arctic Circle, has no designated roads, trails, or campgrounds. Through August, only 1,250 people had visited for the year, mostly hardcore backcountry-ists and local hunters.

The park is famous for its caribou herds, as well as — incongruously — the Great Kobuk Sand Dunes.

2. National Park of American Samoa, American Samoa

Simple isolation accounts for this island park’s low visitor numbers (2,400 during the period in question). No doubt its reefs, beaches, and mountainous forests would draw many more were they closer to “home.”

The park was hit hard by the tsunami that killed over 100 on the Samoan islands in late September.

6. Isle Royale National Park, MI

Photo: Ben+Sam

The list returns to Alaska for the next three entries — Isle Royale is the first to appear from the continental U.S.

Again, isolation is the word on this system of islands stuck in the middle of Lake Superior between the skinny tip of Minnesota, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, and a scantly populated region of Ontario.

Access is by boat or seaplane, and over eight months only 12,600 people opted to visit this remote wilderness.

Community Connection

Find out which of these parks would make good stopovers along Matador’s Top 7 Summer Road Trips in the US / Canada.

Photo: mason bryant

When people talk about the tallest trees on the planet, Sequoia sempervirens is what they’re referring to.

Commonly called coast redwoods, these giants are known to reach 379 feet tall (115.5 meters; in theory, they could grow as tall as 425′), with trunk diameters of up to 26 feet (8 meters). Some standing today sprouted before the birth of Christ.

Though once occupying a much larger range, they’re now confined to a narrow strip of America’s Pacific Northwest. Lucky for amateur tree-lovers, a large selection of serious coast redwoods is easily accessible to hikers (and, in some cases, drivers).

But the real titans remain hidden within forests of fog and van-sized poison oak vines, the secret of their locations safeguarded by a small band of die-hard forest explorers. Not only that, but more are being discovered each year.

What follows is a summary of the info that’s out there.

Redwoods for Mortals

Redwood hunters should head to the northernmost coast of California. Here, close to 65 square miles of old-growth forest is protected by the Redwood National and State Parks system. There are also big trees in southern Oregon’s Siskiyou National Forest and in reserves near the Bay Area.

Redwood groves are year-round destinations; in fact, they can be at their most majestic in winter, with a lusher look and smaller crowds. Just make sure to check park websites for the latest on opening hours and services, as many California state parks have been burned by budget cuts.

Here’s a rundown of the best groves to seek out, listed in order of difficulty:

Stout Grove panorama / Photo: M. D. Vaden of Oregon

Avenue of the Giants
Location: Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Length: 30-35 miles

This 30-mile section of old Highway 101 offers an effortless option for seeing big trees. If the landscape looks familiar, it’s probably because scenes of the Ewok moon of Endor from Return of the Jedi were filmed here.

A four-mile detour down Mattole Road (where the highway crosses Bull Creek) will take you to more groves and a short hiking trail.

Stout Grove
Location: Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park
Trail length: 0.6 mile (loop)

The individual trees here may not be record breakers, but the collective aesthetic of the grove makes it one of the better known.

Montgomery Grove
Location: Montgomery Woods State Natural Reserve
Trail length: 2 miles (loop)

At less than five square miles, this is a tiny reserve, but it’s pretty much all old growth. Its sole trail loops through some serious groves.

One of the tallest trees in the world lives here — off-trail and unadvertised, of course.

Homestead and Big Tree Loop
Location: Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Trail length: 2.4 miles (loop)

This is one of the hikes accessible from Mattole Road off Avenue of the Giants. Both trails in the loop pass through old growth.

Near Rhododendron Trail, Prairie Creek
Photo: M. D. Vaden of Oregon

Brown Creek Trail
Location: Prairie Creek Redwood State Park
Trail length: 3.5 miles (loop)

The Brown Creek walk accesses some super thick groves and can easily be linked with the more backcountry-ish Rhododendron Trail.

Tall Trees Grove
Location: Redwood National Park
Trail length: 3.9 miles (one way)

Tall Trees Grove is home to the Libbey Tree, which at almost 363 feet was once the tallest on record. And unlike most other trees with this distinction, Libbey is open for viewing by the general public.

Of course, this makes the grove a huge draw, and a complicated system of permits and cryptic driving directions has been implemented to limit visitor numbers. Read more here.

Boy Scout Tree Trail
Location: Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park
Trail length: 5 miles (one way)

This one is remarkable for its abundance of unadulterated old growth, which also encompasses the drive to the trailhead.

Miners’ Ridge and James Irvine Loop Trail
Location: Prairie Creek Redwood State Park
Trail length: 11 miles (loop)

This trail combo is your best option for a full-day redwood trek. It takes in several diverse ecosystems, including an undeveloped beach.

* For additional details and maps of these and other redwood trails, check out the website redwoodhikes.com — solid.

Redwoods for Superheroes (or Naturalists in the Know)

The locations of the tallest trees and most impressive groves are kept secret to protect the redwoods, their ecosystem, and inexperienced visitors alike.

In the words of Richard Preston, author of The Wild Trees:

…the truth of the matter is that redwood rainforest is exceedingly difficult to move through, physically. You get out in there, and it takes a physically fit person up to 12 hours to move two miles. You’re belly crawling, you’re crawling through thorns, your skin gets all bloody, you can’t see anything. It’s absolutely thick.

And then you come across these piles of redwood trunks that have fallen down like pick-up-sticks. These are trunks that are anywhere from eight to 12 feet in diameter piled up, and…you get a wall of wood that may be 30 feet tall. And as you climb over it, if you slip down into a crack, you can fall into the pile — 30 feet — and break your leg and never be heard from again.

Source: NPR

There’s also the fact that redwood country is bear and mountain lion country, too.

And on top of all that, trees are always growing and new groves are discovered frequently, so the official ranking of biggest and baddest is in constant flux.

Here are the most famous of the hidden titans.

Grove of Titans
Photo: M. D. Vaden of Oregon

Grove of Titans
Location: Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park

Discovered in 1998, this grove is said to have the biggest average tree size of any so far found. Its most famous resident is Lost Monarch, the most massive coast redwood known with a height of 320′ and a diameter of 26′.

According to Richard Preston, the grove lies at “the bottom of a hidden notch-like valley near a glade.”

Mario Vaden says, “Grove of Titans is across the water from the campground, on the west side of the Smith River,” and that it “extends through the confluence of valleys among flat, slopes and mounds.”

Atlas Grove
Location: Prairie Creek Redwood State Park

Knowledge of Atlas Grove dates to at least 1991. Iluvatar, currently the third-largest coast redwood by volume, is found here.

A careful study known as the Atlas Project was carried out recently in a portion of the grove to learn more about these giant trees and their habitat.

Hyperion: the tallest tree on Earth
Location: Redwood National Park

The current record holder goes by the name Hyperion and reaches a height of 379.1 feet. Standing at a remote, undisclosed location in Redwood National Park, it was found and measured just three years ago.

What descriptions there are of its position are quite vague: “in the southern section of the park,” “on a slope above a creek,” “too far from any trail to visit.” And capped off with, “Everyone who knows anything about this tree is sworn to secrecy.”

For an engaging account of one team’s search, check out Tom Clynes’ “Slippery Slope: In search of Humboldt’s giant Hyperion redwood.”

* Special thanks to Mario Vaden for allowing use of his photos here.

Community Connection

Make sure not to miss the companion Photo Essay: GIANT Redwoods, the Tallest Living Things on Our Planet

Have you hunted hidden redwoods? Stumbled on the location of Grove of Titans, Atlas Grove, or Hyperion? Trips wants to hear from you in the comments.

1. Coast redwoods don’t get as wide as their cousins the giant sequoia, but 26-foot diameters can hardly be considered second rate.
Photo: M. D. Vaden of Oregon

2. Where redwoods leave the sequoias behind is height. These are the tallest trees on the planet, with the highest so far measured reaching 379.1 feet. That’s over 70 feet taller than the Statue of Liberty, taking into account pedestal and foundation.
Photo: lunaport

3. And, stats aside, they’re just awesome to look at.
Photo: mason bryant

4. “Cathedral trees” sprout from a shared base, like these in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.
Photo: rachel_thecat

5. The canopy of a redwood grove, out of sight of both earth and sky, has been described as an “unexplored ecosystem.”
Photo: *~Dawn~*

6. The locations of the most serious trees and groves are kept secret, to protect both the redwoods and inexperienced hikers who might otherwise seek them out. This is one such tree, Screaming Titans, in the Grove of Titans, Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park.
Photo: H Dragon

7. A stitch job from the Grove of Titans.
Photo: H Dragon

8. Dwarfed by nature.
Photo: Shayan (USA)

9. A stout trunk from Jedediah Smith.
Photo: joannapoe

10. We treat our redwoods better today than they did in the 1930s. Still, if you ever wanted to drive through a tree, here ya go.
Photos: lostintheredwoods (left), nagobe (right)

11. A shot aptly titled, “give up, we have you surrounded.”
Photo: adrian207

12. There’s no doubt that trees bigger than today’s record holders were logged over the last century+. It’s not clear whether this was a coast redwood or giant sequoia, only that it was ginormous (note the team of horses on top).
Photo: David C. Foster

Community Connection

Get an image of redwood stealth camping in David Miller’s 11 tracks, 3 interludes, and how they define a road / surf trip from Seattle to San Francisco.

Photo: Lets Bike It

This past August, Trips introduced the World’s Best Stargazing Destinations. Included in the list was Scotland, which Matador contributor Bob Riel noted has some of the darkest skies in Europe.

Now, the International Dark-Sky Association has named Galloway Forest Park as one of only a handful of locations on Earth that deserve it’s “dark skies park” designation. Out of a 24-point darkness rating system (24 being on the level of a photographer’s dark room), Galloway got a 23.

The park also scored points for its accessible location. It may be far from any light-polluting population center, but that doesn’t mean it’s ultra-remote. According to The Guardian’s coverage of the story, Galloway is easily visited from northern England, southern Scotland, and by ferry from Northern Ireland.

For more details, such as how to plan your own Scottish stargazing trip, visit the website of Dark Sky Scotland.

Community Connection

While you’re in the land of the kilt, make sure to check out Scotland’s Carbonated Cult: Irn-Bru.

Photo: Cessna 206

Trips has already introduced you to America’s Most Dangerous Neighborhoods, rankings that were based on crime statistics.

Sometimes, though, people don’t need to go out of their way to imperil the lives of those around them. Mother Nature’s pretty good at that, too.

Popularmechanics.com takes up the issue with 8 of the Most Dangerous Places (To Live) on the Planet — human habitations facing very real threats from volcanoes, killer storms, desertification, and more.

Here’s what they got:

Photo: ctsnow

Mt. Merapi, Java

This active volcano’s constant smoke belching is a tipoff — it’s averaged 12 eruptions per century over the last 500 years. Still, 200,000 people live within an ominously short four miles of “Fire Mountain.”

And they’re not alone. The article claims as many as 120 million Javanese reside inside the danger zones of the island’s 22 active volcanoes.

Central Africa’s Lake Kivu is on the list as well due to the region’s seismic-volcanic instability that threatens to unleash trillions of cubic feet of poison gases trapped beneath the lakebed.

This phenomenon isn’t confined to Asia, either. For months in 2008-9, southern Chile’s Chaitén volcano blew its top. Residents of nearby Esquel, Argentina, where I volunteered earlier this year, tell of a months-long period of ash-mud raining from the sky and the necessity of HazMat suits whenever stepping outside.

Still, a handful of residents in the town of Chaitén have refused to leave.

Maldives

With an elevation peak of six feet above sea level, the 1,190 islands of the Maldives are demonstrating the effects of climate change today.

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami rendered 10% of the nation’s land area uninhabitable, and since then local leaders have been hammering out plans to relocate the entire Maldivian population.

The Maldives / Photo: notsogoodphotography

The islands are still considered a beach-bum hot spot, but you’d better hurry if you want to catch a glimpse before they literally vanish.

Grand Cayman

Other potential casualties of global climate change are places already at high risk of violent storms.

That obviously includes the Cayman Islands’ Grand Cayman, otherwise known as the “hurricane capital of the world.”

For proof, you need look no further back than 2004, when Hurricane Ivan destroyed 70% of the buildings on the island and left 40,000 residents with zero power and clean water.

The Haitian city of Gonaïves also makes the list for its recent streak of hurricane bad luck, and Oklahoma’s I-44 “tornado corridor” gets a nod as well.

Verkhoyansk, Siberia

Long-time favorite exile spot for Russian czars and Soviet premiers alike, the Arctic town of Verkhoyansk is officially the world’s coldest, a distinction that carries its own terminology: the “Pole of Cold.”

The record-low temperature was mercuried over 100 years ago (long before meteorologists thought up the concept of wind chill): -90F/-68C.

Photo: Kiwi Mikex

Minqin County, China

Drought, water diversion, and a position directly between the encroaching Tengger and Badain Jaran Deserts likely spells annihilation for this section of China’s Gansu province.

The national government has been making efforts to relocate farmers to greener pastures, but the area’s population is swelling, now at 2+ million.

Have you been to any of these or other “days-are-numbered” destinations? Did you get any insight into why their inhabitants continue to live where they do? Share your stories in the comments.

Community Connection

Here are some more titles for your “most dangerous” fix:

Top 10 Most Dangerous Waves in the World

The World’s Most Dangerous Hike?

Food for Thought – the Most dangerous Cities in the Americas?

11 Most Dangerous Mountains in the World for Climbers

The Best, Strangest, and Most Dangerous Roads in the World

Photo: ricardo.martin

According to the Hotel Rosengarten website, this all-nude hotel in the Black Forest has postponed their opening indefinitely due to lack of investors. And though I haven’t been able to ascertain if the trial for nude flights booked with OssiUrlaub.de was successful or not, I can’t find anywhere to book a seat on one of their planes.

Despite the uncertainty of these two naked ventures, there is one thing for both Germans and naturists to look forward to: the opening next May of an 11-mile hiking trail through the Harz Mountains in northern Germany, catering to those who like to stomp around in the buff.

The nude hiking route will start in the village of Dankerode — at the campsite of Heinz Ludwig, the man responsible for organizing the route — and end at the Wippertal dam. Traditional clothed hikers are welcome on the trail, but there will be clear signage of what they may bump into.

Fair warning.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Gun shy? Read 10 Traveler’s Tips For Rocking a Nudist Beach.

Quidi Vidi Lake / Photo: Matthew McCarthy

Whale sightings

From May to October, the waters of Newfoundland and Labrador teem with the largest population of Humpback whales in the world as they migrate from the Caribbean, feeding on capelin and krill. The Humpback is a baleen whale, meaning they have a thick layer of bristles inside their mouth used to catch food.

Photo: Matthew McCarthy

While Minke, Pilot, Sperm, and even Blue whales are found around Newfoundland, the Humpbacks put on the best show.

Weighing 45 tons, they’re playful and unable to resist a good audience. The giant mammal will often emerge at the sound of an approaching boat, breaching with an impact like a meteor and slapping its tail on the surface.

Other times it’ll flip its tail up like an obscene gesture, indicating it’s diving deeper, and may stay hidden for a while.

You might also see mothers and calves swimming side by side or frolicking in the open sea.

Newfoundland is for the birds

The biggest population of seabirds in North America — 35 million — has chosen Newfoundland as its home. Here, storm-petrels, razorbills, gannets, and even puffins coexist happily.

To see them, head to Bay Bulls, a 25-minute drive from St. John’s on the Irish Loop. Boats launch from here to circle the Gull, Green, Great, and Pee Pee islands, which make up the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve.

260,000 pairs of puffins nest on these islands during the late spring and summer. In fact, 95% of North America’s puffins live around the coast of Newfoundland.

Photo by author

Other than puffins, there are thousands of black-legged kittiwakes and the common murre.

Envisioning it is difficult — listening to the reserve is better.

Approaching the islands by boat, your attention may be focused by the green hills, sharp cliffs, or even Humpback whales passing nearby.

But at some point, you’ll look up to realize the sky is a black mass of movement as the birds hover around the islands like colonies of bats. Once the captain cuts the engine, the pure impact of the noise can be overwhelming.

Just remember not to gaze upward with your mouth open. (Don’t say I didn’t warn you.)

All along the islands, thousands of puffins roost on the rocky shores, and the hills are punctured by holes known as puffin burrows. The birds swoop and dive and skim the top of the water.

Puffins are comical creatures; they’re better swimmers than fliers, with the ability to dive to 200 feet. They mate for life and their awkward, gawky bodies and colourful markings contrast sharply with the other marine birds in the reserve.

Perhaps this is why the puffin has become Newfoundland’s official bird: they’re simply quirky.

Photo by author

Icebergs, straight ahead

The arrival of puffins and Humpbacks also coincides with the appearance of icebergs. Iceberg Alley is the area stretching from the northernmost peninsula of Labrador down to the east coast of Newfoundland.

Here, bergs from Greenland’s 10,000-year-old icecap make their journey and are usually seen during the end of spring, particularly May and June. Their size and shapes vary: tabular, blocky, dome, drydock, wedge, and pinnacle are all words used to describe these masses of ice.

If you want to save some cash and skip the boat tour (see below), icebergs can often be spotted from St. John’s harbour or from the Signal Hill trail. Without leaving the trail, you can get fairly close to a berg when they float near the coast.

Last year, inside the St. John’s Narrows, the biggest iceberg of the season appeared eerily to be suspended in mid air. The horizon disappeared as the misty sea and sky blended into each other, the iceberg floating between.

How to see it all

Photo: Matthew McCarthy

Several boat tours operating during whale season are available from the St. John’s harbour, including Dee Jay Charters and Iceberg Quest.

Both tours offer the chance to see whales and icebergs, but Dee Jay Charters is a less crowded vessel which also journeys around Quidi Vidi Village and Cape Spear, the easternmost point in North America.

In Bay Bulls, boat tours such as Gatherall’s or O’Brien’s combine whale and bird watching. All tours come with good-humoured guides, fiddle music, and sometimes a dinner cruise. Dress warmly as even summers can be frigid in Newfoundland.

Sea kayaking is another option for the adventurous: tour groups like Stan Cook Sea Kayak Adventures get you up close to the Newfoundland coastline and the Humpbacks, if you’re not intimidated by a house-sized mammal belly flopping just ten feet from your paddle.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Matador member Ted Kern has a whale of a story about Swimming with Humpbacks, along with some nice pics.

If you find yourself in St. John’s wondering what to do at night, read Candice’s article at Nights, One Night on George Street — a Newfoundler’s Guide to Getting Smashed in St. John’s.

Everyone loves lakes. / Photo: magical-world

Lakes have a lot to offer: You get all the benefits of a refreshing body of water without having to worry about tides, currents, rapids, great whites, or that scummy coating of salt.

That must have been what the folks at the Brilliant Tips blog were thinking, anyway, when they published a snapshot of 10 Unique and Fascinating Lakes Around the World.

And Trips agrees. It’s time to bigup the world’s lakes, and here are some picks from the Brilliant Tips piece to get us started:

Photo: gramz

Volcanic views

Two from the list fall into this category.

First we have Guatemala’s Lago de Atitlán, with a trio of volcanoes flanking its southern shore. A series of Mayan villages also ring the water.

And then there’s Taal Lake, on the Philippine’s main island of Luzon. An active volcano rises up from an island in the middle of the lake, and within the volcano’s crater is yet another lake, which Wikipedia describes as “the world’s largest lake on an island in a lake on an island.”
Ya follow?

Most flamingos

Tourists aren’t the only ones who can appreciate lakes. There may be as many as one million flamingos in Kenya’s Lake Nakuru at any given time, attracted by the water’s abundant algae.

Photo: caffeinated Kit

The otherworldly

Spotted Lake, in Klikuk, British Columbia, gets its double-take texture from the soup of minerals found in its water and the peculiarities of local evaporation processes.

It’s visible from a pull-off on Highway 3, just a 10-minute drive north of the Washington border — truly an alien landscape.

World’s deepest

That would be Baikal, reaching depths of 1,642 meters (5,400 feet). It’s also the world’s oldest.

The crescent blade of a lake is located in southeastern Russia and is a good choice for breaking up your Trans-Siberian rail journey.

Most floaty

The Dead Sea, on the borders of Jordan, Israel, and the West Bank, is actually a giant salt lake. It also marks the point of lowest elevation on Earth’s surface (422 meters/1,385 feet below sea level).

And people like to float in it.

Photo: auntjojo

Others?

Lake Titicaca would be an obvious addition to the list.

It’s giant, super high (one of the highest navigable in the world), and home to a collection of artificial islands made from reeds that people live on.

Oregon’s Crater Lake is another standout, with its great depth and remarkably clear waters.

Any more? What’s the most memorable lake you’ve visited, and what makes it unique? Let us know in the comments.

Photo: Lee Sie

Community Connection

Like to ride? Matador has put out a Reminder to Australians: National Ride to Work Day is Coming Up!

If you’re looking for American ground to shred, make sure to read Boise For Mountain Bikers.

Winter in the Cairngorms / Photo: Murky1

For its size (on par with Oregon), the United Kingdom is one strikingly diverse nation. From mountains to beaches to rolling plains, its landscapes come in many varieties, one never more than a day’s journey from another.

Britain’s 14 national parks are tasked with showcasing this diversity, as well as protecting it. Recently, the Guardian asked travel industry leaders and outdoors enthusiasts to lay out what makes each of the 14 special. Here are some highlights:

Climbing Peak District / Photo: sharpneil

Brecon Beacons: Features an 8-day trek that takes in a historic church, Iron Age castle, and nature reserve, in addition to the high, angular terrain that dominates this region of Wales.

Peak District: Set square in the heart of England, Peak offers a range of climbing opportunities on its gritstone outcroppings — a type of rock found practically nowhere else on Earth.

Cairngorms: The system’s most extreme park by all counts (biggest, tallest, farthest north) draws mountain bikers looking to take on Scotland’s most epic trails.

Pembrokeshire Coast: Sea kayak is the vessel of choice for exploring this Welsh park and its 250 miles of rocky coast dotted with cliffs, sea caves, and marine wildlife.

Have you visited these or other UK parks? Share your experience in the comments.

Community Connection

For more national park goodness from around the world, check out these Matador posts:

Back to Nature: 13 Of The World’s Richest National Parks

Seven Best National Parks for Visiting Old Growth Forests

Guide to Kenya’s National Parks

All photos by author

Most travelers who make their way to the Australian state of Victoria (most commonly Melbourne) eventually find themselves heading to the Great Ocean Road. It’s a stretch of coastline in Victoria’s south that runs around 155 mi/250 km from Torquay to Warrnambool, and which includes the famous 12 Apostles.

What many visitors don’t bother to do though, is to hike any part of the 56 mi/91 km trail that hugs the coastline and gets you right down to the beaches. This is where Mother Nature is, away from the cars and buses, and into the bush with the kangaroos, wallabies, and echidnas.

Lots of options

You don’t have to hike the whole thing. You don’t even have to hike half of it. There are many points of entry and exit which facilitate short and long day hikes, and which many visitors explore while using a B&B or hotel for accommodation.

Shuttles can be hired to drop you off and pick you up at agreed-upon spots and times, and they’ll even do bag drop-off and food delivery (although, many purist hikers take major exception to this practice). We used GOR Shuttle to get taxied back to our van — I personally recommend them.

Tours are also available, if that’s your cup of tea.

For the overnight hikers

The Great Ocean Walk (GOW) starts at the Apollo Bay Visitor Information Centre and ends 90+ kms later at Glenample — within viewing distance of the 12 Apostles. For the hardest of the hardcore, this is a suggested 7-night, 8-day walk.

All the campsites on the walk are hike-in only. To minimise the environmental impact, Parks Victoria keeps the number of overnight hikers low, so each campsite has only eight spots for pitching a tent.

The campgrounds are very basic and have composting toilets, one or two untreated rainwater tanks, and a small 3-sided shelter. Open fires are not allowed and if the fire hazard is extreme, you may not even be allowed to cook with an open flame.

Pick and choose your itinerary

Overnight hikers can opt to do one-night/two-day hikes, two-night/three-day hikes, and so on. There are many starting and ending points but you must obtain a camping permit before spending the night.

For a detailed list of possible itineraries, read this very helpful PDF of FAQs.

A popular itinerary

Probably the most popular stretch of the walk is from Johanna Beach to the end at Glenample. This takes in roughly half of the trail — but from all accounts this is the better half. It is three nights, so is doable over a long weekend, which explains why it was booked solid when my wife and I tried to reserve sites over the Labour Day long weekend (early March in Australia).

Johanna Beach hike-in campsite

But you’re a traveler, and you don’t even know what a weekend is, right? Perfect. We backed it up for one night (starting Thursday instead of Friday) and found ourselves almost completely alone for the whole walk, sharing each campground with only one other couple.

Johanna Beach to Glenample

If you’re driving in, you have two options: park at Johanna Beach and arrange a shuttle at the end to drive you back to your car, or park at the end and get shuttled to Johanna Beach to begin. The latter is better in my opinion, but we were forced to do the former due to time constraints.

The Johanna Beach hike-in campground is around one kilometer from the carpark, although it is all uphill. This is good though as it puts you at the top of the cliff overlooking Joahanna Beach and the coastline beyond. Brilliant view to wake up to the next morning.

Note: the drive-in campground here is free, so if you want to save yourself one night’s costs, keep this in mind.

The remaining two campsites you would use are Ryan’s Den and Devil’s Kitchen, in that order. The campgrounds are spaced around 9 mi/15 km apart from each other, so it is an honest day’s hike, especially packing full gear (including your trash — carry out what you carry in).

It’s an undulating trail as you follow the topography of fingers of land that reach into the sea. The vegetation is colourful and varied, and you’ll even pass some blackberry bushes — make sure to pause and fill up on some berry goodness.

When sunny, the ocean to your left is a rich blue, reminiscent of the Mediterranean but with the wildness of the Oregon Coast.

Things to consider

*There are some stretches of beach walking (e.g. Milanesia and Wreck Beach) that are inaccessible at high tide. Check tide times before you start, otherwise you will have to take the less scenic high routes.

*You must reserve your campsite at least two weeks in advance, and you are only allowed to stay a single night in each one.

The 12 Apostles come into view

*It pays to reserve early. As we were the first to book, we were awarded with site #8 at each campsite. The sites are numbered 1-8 from the entrance, with 8 being the closest to the cliff’s edge, meaning the best views.

*When planning your itinerary, keep in mind that you are only permitted to walk in one direction: from Apollo Bay to Glenample. Booking campsites in the reverse direction is not allowed.

*As stated previously, each campground has rainwater tanks, but they are untreated. Make sure to pack some sort of filtration system or purification tablets. At the very minimum, if you don’t have these, boil the water for 10 minutes.

*I’m a big fan of telescopic hiking sticks as they help to distribute the weight of your pack to your arms too. They can also be extremely handy on tricky downhill sections. Highly recommended.

*The toilet houses are quite nice and one of them even has an ocean view. Toilet paper is provided, but it probably wouldn’t hurt to bring a bit extra, just in case.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

To read my personal account of the walk, check out 4 Nights on the Great Ocean Walk. If you’re just interested in pictures, pop over to my Flickr set.

Trips co-editor Hal Amen witnesses our changing world while Hiking the Chacaltaya Glacier. If you want to get philosophical about the ethics of hiking, read Nature for Sale: The Growing Trend of Wilderness Consumption.

Photo: Author

All seventeen (or nineteen, depending on classification system) species are native to the Southern Hemisphere. If you’ve always wanted to get a little closer to these wobbly creatures, here’s a quick guide on where to go to get down and dirty (watch your step — that’s guano).

Antarctica

On an Antarctic cruise with no landings, for which you’ll likely pay upwards of $4,000, the adelie, chinstrap, gentoo, king, rockhopper, and macaroni penguins you sight will be just that — sightings. Through binoculars, they’ll look like black dots against the icy background.

If you spring for landings with walks among the penguins, expect to drop up to 10 grand. Encounters will be plentiful, though you still won’t see the emperors of March of the Penguins fame. They’re high atop the ice shelf and far from the average Antarctic tourist’s view.

Photo: Author

Falkland Islands

Though not quite as far afield as Antarctica, the Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) aren’t really on the way to anywhere. That said, if you relish the idea of an up-close visit to a rockhopper colony, Saunders Island in the Falklands is a great place to go.

But the most photographed birds of the Falklands are the king penguins, a smaller version of the emperor, which have a breeding colony at Volunteer Point, a day excursion from Stanley.

Chile

Chile holds several distinct penguin populations, most of which belong to the Magellanic, or jackass (named for the braying sound they make) species.

They live in burrows and peer out — first with one eye, then the other — in areas such as Isla Magdalena, which lies a ferry ride away from the southern city of Punta Arenas, and near Seno Otway, just 70 km from the same city.

Humbolt penguins are found in the north, and their habitat also extends into Peru.

Photo: Author

Argentina

Most of Argentina’s penguin sightings take place near Punta Tombo, 180 km from the nature-rich town of Puerto Madryn. Close to 500,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins return here every year.

They’re rather tame, and may even peck at your feet as you crouch down to get a photo. It goes without saying that you shouldn’t touch or feed them.

Australia

After Uluru, the fairy penguin’s “parade” at nightfall on Phillip Island’s Summerland Beach is Australia’s most visited attraction.

Photo: Strange Ones

Annually, half a million tourists make the journey to witness the 16-inch, 2-pound penguins waddle their way up the beach every night. The island is an easy day trip from Melbourne.

New Zealand

New Zealand is home to a variety of penguin species — the blue, erect-crested, fiordland, rockhopper, snares, and yellow-eyed — but most of them breed on outer islands that are difficult to visit.

However, the Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony is just a 3-hour drive from Christchurch. This is New Zealand’s version of the penguin parade, and is best caught in the day’s dying light.

The shyest and rarest of the New Zealand species, the yellow-eyed penguin can be seen nearby during daylight hours on the Otago coastline, from public hides.

South Africa

The best (though not only) place to see penguins in Africa is in South Africa, within suburban Capetown.

Photo: darkroomillusions

There are African penguin colonies on 24 islands belonging to both South Africa and Namibia, but it’s much easier to stake them out on Capetown’s Boulders Beach.

Kayak trips from the Simon’s Town waterfront to Boulders Beach are also available.

Ecuador

It should come as no surprise that an unexpected ecological penguin niche exists in the Galapagos. Here, you can see the northernmost of all species, the warm-water Galapagos penguin.

A boat trip around/to the Galapagos will run you a few thousand dollars, plus airfare to Ecuador, but you might forget all that as you round Punta Albermarle on Isla Isabella, where the penguins can be seen cooling off with their wings outstretched and sharing rocks with the comically colored piqueros patas azules, or blue-footed boobies as they’re known in English.

Community Connection

For more fun down under, check out the 5 Best Southern Hemisphere Ski Resorts.

Photo: zachd1_618

Community Connection

For more photographic inspiration, click on the “wordless wanderlust” tag below.

Photo above: Vladimír Tóth, Feature photo: gluemoon

Unexpected Effects

As it turns out, there are times when armed conflict benefits the environment. Just look at Korea’s DMZ, where wildlife thrives in the 4km-wide strip of no man’s land that divides the peninsula.

Something similar occurred along the infamous Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified border that cut for thousands of kilometers through Central Europe, demarcating East and West. 1,400 of those kilometers were in Germany.

While armed guards held vigil, nature flourished. In 1989 the border came down, but the ecosystem that had grown up around it remained. It’s now home to 600 of the region’s threatened animal and plant species, from rare mosses to endangered birds and wild cats.

Redefining the Past

The grünes band — or green belt — as of yet isn’t monitored by a single entity. Rather, it’s being managed by groups in charge of the natural preservation of the different regions it passes through.

Photo: Shyald

Guided and solo trekking options are now attracting visitors. Of course, a nice dose of history is mixed in, with sections of fence, watchtowers, and even old East Germany barracks (now converted into tourist accommodations) still standing.

But just as the Iron Curtain extended far beyond the borders of Germany, so too does the vision of the project.

The organization European Green Belt hopes to turn the entire former border route — from the north of Finland to Greece — into one giant nature preserve.

Cyclists are also on the case, working section by section to create the 4,225-mile Iron Curtain Trail. Some segments are already open, as reported recently in The New York Times.

Preservation won’t be easy. Landowners and developers are understandably eager to take advantage of the empty land.

But great potential exists to transform the significance of the Iron Curtain from oppression and conflict to rejuvenation and new beginnings.

Community Connection

Have you been to the Iron Curtain green belt? If so, we’d love to hear about it in the comments.

For other great routes to explore, check out these Trips titles:

Photo Essay: The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail

How To Trek The Inca Trail

A-OK Again on the Kokoda Trail

Great Routes Through the Maya Trail

1. Iceland’s main road (the “1″) is around 800 miles long and circles the entire country. Since there is very little traffic on this island of 300,000 souls, not to mention a distinct lack of vegetation and wildlife, much of the time there’s just the country’s majestic nature — lava fields, glaciers, streams, lakes, and huge lichen-covered mountains — for company.

2. If you’re lucky you might even see the famous Northern Lights (aurora borealis). This photo was taken on a trip around the Snaefellsnes glacier, one of the most stunning areas of Iceland and just a 2-3 hour drive out of Reykjavik.

3. Another scene from Snaefellsnes, this time taken during sunset. Due to its low population, much of Iceland is quintessentially rural, though with a crazy volcanic twist that makes the landscapes highly distinctive and memorable. Ever seen sheep or horses grazing peacefully in a lunar-style lava field? You will here…

4. Speaking of horses, the Icelandic breed is world famous. They’re generally small — pony-sized in fact — and have special gaits. Fun fact: laws prevent animals from being imported to Iceland or returning to the country after they’ve been exported.

5. Another very special (and largely under-acknowledged) area in Iceland are the Westfjords. The oldest part of the island geologically, they’ve developed a unique community. Travel up here can be tough due to the deep, winding fjords. On the upside you’ll often feel like you’re driving through a fairy tale.

6. A great time to visit the Westfjords is in April or May when there’s still a good chance of snow on the mountains, but when the roads are generally clear (they can be closed off during winter). Snow-based activities in the area include ice fishing, snowmobiling, and spontaneous snowman making.

7. The Westfjords region has generally been in decline since WWII and the fall-off of the fishing industries. Yet the tourist infrastructure is excellent and though many residents literally abandoned their houses and moved to Reykjavik for work, many others have kept second homes here.

8. In harsher weather you can see and feel how bleak the Westfjords (and other remote parts of Iceland) can be. Yet even foreboding skies, whiplash winds, and driving rain can’t strip the country of its inherent and often unexpected beauty. The dominant forces of nature are felt everywhere.

9. On the other hand, Iceland is an absolute delight in summer. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not cold during spring, summer, or even (sometimes) autumn. In fact, temperatures are generally at European levels, give or take a few degrees. But don’t forget that the farther north you go, the less nighttime you’re going to get. Akureyri (pictured here from across the fjord), is the second largest city after Reykjavik with 10,000 inhabitants. It’s a popular place due to its exquisite setting, nearby whale-watching tours (in Husavik), and proximity to major natural attractions such as Lake Myvatn.

10. The coastline in Iceland’s north is fascinating with its strange mix of luminous green lichen, steep cliffs, and sky-wide vistas. This shot was taken near Husavik, one of the great whale-watching centers of the world. In the background is Lundey Island, home to a multitude of bird life including puffins, black guillemots, fulmars, and arctic terns.

11. Lake Myvatn, an hour or so from Akureyri, is one of Iceland’s most beautiful and mysterious areas. A mesmerizing array of lava lakes, bubbling geothermal areas, and volcanic craters, it’s unlikely you’ll forget a trip here in a hurry. It really is like paying a visit to the moon (well, presumably. And with a bit more water).

12. To the east of the Myvatn area lies the formidable Hverfjall. A kilometer in circumference, this looming black volcanic crater was formed around 2,500 years ago.

13. A wider view of Hverfjall takes in grazing horses, parts of Lake Myvatn, a snow-capped glacier, and the region’s famed geothermal resources, which power the Myvatn Nature Baths — or the northern Blue Lagoon as it’s known. This thoroughly modern spa area (see the building with the blue roof) has mineral-rich geothermal water, a cafeteria, three natural steam baths, and a 5000-sq.-meter geothermal bathing pool maintained at a constant temperature of 38-40ºC. Sploosh.

14. You can also see the bizarre formations created by that geothermal activity up close at Hverarönd, a collection of bubbling sulfuric mud, clay springs, and steaming rocks. Remember what I was saying about the lack of darkness in summer? This photo was taken at 11pm.

Community Connection

While in Iceland, take part in their version of a pub crawl. Find out How to Drink on the Reykjavik Runtur.

Photo above: makelessnoise, Feature photo: NASA, ESA, HEIC, and The Hubble Heritage Team (STScI/AURA)

Chile

Chile’s Atacama Desert mixes high altitude, dry air, and an absence of light pollution — a perfect recipe for some of the world’s best stargazing.

Photo: jovengandalf

The highest desert on Earth is not necessarily an easy place to get to, but if you go you’ll be rewarded with some of the clearest skies on the planet.

The Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca offers public tours.

Or, for a more personal experience, book a room at the Hotel Elqui Domos, where seven geodesic domes feature upstairs bedrooms with detachable roofs so guests can enjoy a stunning view of the heavens from the comfort of their bed.

Hawaii

Hawaii is also a highly regarded destination for viewing the stars. In the middle of the Pacific Ocean, it’s relatively untouched by light pollution. The best spot in the island chain is the volcano of Mauna Kea on the Big Island.

At an altitude of 9,000 feet, it’s home to the Keck Observatory and one of the world’s largest optical telescopes.

Photo: eye of einstein

It’s also the future site of the Thirty-Meter Telescope, which will be the most advanced telescope ever built when finished in 2018.

Hawaii beat out Chile for the honor of hosting this telescope after these two destinations were judged the best stargazing locations on the planet.

Visitors should begin at the Onizuka Visitors Center, which runs free nightly stargazing programs.

Southwestern United States

The Sonoran Desert in the American Southwest has particularly clear skies, and Kitt Peak National Observatory near Tucson houses the world’s largest collection of optical telescopes and offers nightly viewing opportunities.

Other sites in the region that are open to the public include Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles; Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, Arizona; and McDonald Observatory near El Paso, Texas. Or, in New Mexico, you can visit New Mexico Skies, rent a cabin in the Sacramento Mountains, and discover the stars from their mini-observatories.

Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah was the first place to be named an International Dark Sky Park and is considered to have some of the world’s best night views. Rangers lead summertime astronomy workshops.

Photo: photofish12

DIY stargazing is another way to go.

Bryce Canyon in Utah; the Grand Canyon in Arizona; Chaco Culture in New Mexico; and Joshua Tree, Yosemite, and Death Valley in California are all Southwest parks that put on spectacular nighttime shows.

Southern Africa

Many destinations in Africa are excellent for stargazing due to their low population density, low levels of light pollution, and frequent cloudless nights.

South Africa and Namibia have particularly good opportunities for public viewing. The South African Astronomical Observatory offers tours at facilities in Sutherland and Cape Town, while Kruger National Park has astronomy programs for safari tourists.

For a unique lodging experience in Namibia, the Sossusvlei Desert Lodge is not only near the world’s largest sand dunes, but also has its own observatory and astronomers.

Australia and New Zealand

Like Chile, South Africa, and Namibia, Australia’s and New Zealand’s positions in the Southern Hemisphere mean you’ll be able to see stars that aren’t visible in the North, most notably the constellation of the Southern Cross.

An easily accessible destination in Australia is the Sydney Observatory, located near Sydney Harbor.

If you want to escape the city, the Astronomical Society of New South Wales hosts the annual South Pacific Star Party at a 100-acre site three hours from Sydney.

Photo: a4gpa

Or, for a truly spectacular setting in the center of Australia, make your way to Uluru (Ayers Rock) for the Sounds of Silence experience, where you’ll dine in the open air and then listen to an astronomer give you a tour of the southern sky.

New Zealand has several good observatories, including the Auckland Stardome with its 360-degree dome theater. On the South Island, in Lake Tekapo township, the Mount John Observatory offers clear skies and a majestic location in the Southern Alps.

Scotland

If you’re looking for a stargazing destination in Europe, Scotland has some of the darkest skies on the continent. The northern lights are even visible occasionally, a phenomenon that usually requires a trip closer to the Arctic Circle.

An organization called Dark Sky Scotland now promotes dark sky parks in the Scottish Highlands. For organized viewing, you can check out the Royal Observatory in Edinburgh.

Community Connection

Read about Matador managing editor Julie Schwietert’s night out in Shakespeare Under the Stars: A Night at the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival.

For unforgettable Earth-bound vistas, check out Photo Essay: The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth.

Photographer: freewine

Community Connection

Serenity is nice. But if you’re looking for something more adventurous, you probably want to read Take Me to the River: 8 Simple Steps for Getting into White Water Paddling.

Or for something more progressive, you may be interested in Stand-Up Paddling.

1. Angel Falls, Venezuela
Salto Del Ángel, better known to English speakers as Angel Falls, is considered the highest in the world at 979 meters.
Photographer: Inti

2. Seljalandsfoss, Iceland
This picturesque 60m plunge has appeared on the likes of The Amazing Race. Hikers get a kick out of the trail that leads behind the falls.
Photographer: Daníel Örn

3. Victoria Falls, Zambia/Zimbabwe
Victoria forms the “largest sheet of falling water in the world.” Its extent is so great that it helps to have a view from the air (below).
Photographer: Sotti

Photographer: Jean-Louis Vandevivère

4. Bridalveil Fall, USA
One of the most photogenic falls in California’s Yosemite National Park, and that’s saying a lot.
Photographer: CLightPictures

5. Kaieteur Falls, Guyana
Though neither the tallest nor the widest, Kaieteur’s combination of height and volume makes it one of the world’s most powerful falls.
Photographer: madmack66

6. Takakkaw Falls, Canada
Takakkaw is one of the star attractions of British Columbia’s Yoho National Park.
Photographer: Michael Rogers

7. Tad Fane, Laos
Twin chutes of water plummet into a jungle gorge just beyond the balconies of the Tad Fane resort.
Photographer: krisprachant

8. Niagara Falls, USA/Canada
Niagara needs no introduction, but just like Victoria, its true scope can only be appreciated from the air (below).
Photographer: outofthebox27

Photographer: gilesclement

9. Barron Falls, Australia
Only a trickle for much of the year, the Barron Falls roar after a hearty rainy-season downpour.
Photographer: Shek Graham

10. Queulat Glacier waterfall, Chile
Sensitive environmentalists, avert your eyes. This one might as well be taken straight from a climate change poster.
Photographer: betoscopio

11. Iguazu Falls, Argentina/Brazil
There are 275 separate falls along this 2.7km stretch of the Iguazu River. Yeah, they’re awesome. Check out the panorama (below).
Photographer: Luca Galuzzi

Photographer: Martin St-Amant

12. Yinlianzhuitan waterfall, China
Though not as large as the nearby Huangguoshu waterfall, Yinlianzhuitan makes the list for one reason: this sweet pic.
Photographer: WaitinZ

Community Connection

Matador Trips is amassing a collection of some of the most stunning photo essays on the web. Make sure not to miss:

The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth

The Stunning Colors of Glacier National Park

The Spirit of Burma

Papua New Guinea

An Amazon Adventure

Photo: chris runoff

Culinary America

A land of immigrants, Americans learned long ago that the best way to stay in touch with the mother culture — long after the language fell away — was through cooking. This nostalgia and passion are as much a part of traditional recipes as their ingredients.

In addition to using food to remember where we came from, we also use it to express where we want to go. American cuisine is one of diverse experimentation. Here are some favorites:

1. The San Francisco Bay Area is America’s culinary king. From Half Moon Bay to San Francisco and Berkeley to Sonoma and Napa and Marin Counties, this region leads in food and wine that’s locally and organically grown and artistically prepared.

Photo: hillary h

2. For the best traditional cuisine mixed with riotous innovation, New Orleans is the place. This southern city flawlessly combines tradition with experimentation, and its people continue to define the joy of cooking, eating, and sharing a table.

3. Chicago, with its incredibly diverse population — from Eastern and Central Europe, to the circum-Mediterranean, to Latin America, to East Asia — is a foodie heaven.

Here’s a city where you can find the best of the most unknown cuisines, such as a Serbian restaurant serving up traditional dishes that would pass muster back home.

4. Philadelphia is as rich in American food and drink as it is in American history, especially considering its rise in recent years as a major restaurant town.

Freshly feeding this trend is the hinterland of farms, forests, and fields in both Pennsylvania and New Jersey, the presence of European-styled daily markets like the Reading Terminal and Italian Markets, and the growth of urban community gardens.

Philadelphia’s City Tavern served our founding fathers, and it can do the same for you. It’s still as exciting, broad, and spicy as it was in the 18th century, when far-flung ingredients were constantly coming through the city’s active international port on the Delaware River.

Sacred America

In addition to human-built spiritual facilities, some of America’s most sacred sites are found in its varied and vast natural spaces. A handy list of such places is available at Places of Peace and Power. Standouts include:

Photo: R. Doyle Bowman

1. Canyon de Chelly in northeastern Arizona is among the longest continuously inhabited places in North America, to this day managed by the Navajo Nation in collaboration with the National Park Service.

Canyon de Chelly is not only a national monument but also home to a Navajo community.

2. In 1872, Lakota shaman Black Elk identified the center of the universe in the Black Hills of the Dakotas — Okawita Paha, otherwise known as Harney Peak. His Great Vision preserved for us the awareness that this place as an immensely important sacred spot in North America.

While much has changed in the region since then, Harney Peak and the Black Hills continue to possess the power to arrest us, to take us out of our ordinary selves, and to enable us to see our interconnectedness to each other and all life.

3. The Vedanta Temple in Montecito, California, occupies a strong, authentic sacred landscape in the mountains east of Santa Barbara. Throughout the years, the temple has maintained its peaceful atmosphere of meditation and spiritual practice, welcoming all.

Photo: SF Brit

4. Grace Cathedral in San Francisco has an open, spiritually oriented attitude, plus the appeal of an indoor-outdoor labyrinth based on that of France’s Chartres Cathedral.

It’s a terrific setting for a walking meditation, and visitors are respectful of each others’ desire for inner work and silence. More information is available on their website.

Romantic America

Again, from can’t-look-away natural scenery to human-made getaways, America offers countless opportunities for hand-in-hand exploration.

1. Strolling Philadelphia’s expansive colonial neighborhood is like walking in old America and old Europe simultaneously. Filled with over three centuries of history — a marvel of antiquity for most American cities — Old City Philadelphia is full of gardens, walking paths, cobbled streets, old cemeteries, and great cafes and taverns.

2. Driving California’s Highway 1 from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz, you’ll pass through one of North America’s most romantic natural landscapes.

This unique coastal expanse possesses wild vistas and nature parks, intimate towns and beach coves, all along a route where adventure is just around the bend.

3. The French Quarter of New Orleans will always hang onto that worn, Old World romance no matter what comes its way.

Photo: specialkrb

From its colorful ambiance, to its great food and ale, to a sense of community connectedness, this is a great place to go with the one you love, or perhaps to find him or her during an authentic blues set in one of many small, local joints.

4. Another excellent romantic mini-roadtrip runs between the Hudson River Valley of New York and the Berkshires of western Massachusetts. The pace of life here is utterly different than that in the cities just hours away.

From the road you’ll get vistas of mountains, forests, and rivers, while there are plenty of opportunities to stop and savor good local food, go for a romantic hike, and enjoy theater and live music in old-fashioned, small-scale venues.

Community Connection

If you like the Eat, Pray, Love concept, you’ll want to check out Beebe’s guides to Morocco, Portugal, and Spain.

Have your own favorite spot for a culinary, spiritual, or romantic getaway in the U.S.? Share it with Trips readers in the comments.

Photo: Phineas H

The Hume Highway — the inland route between Melbourne and Sydney — is not very exciting. And that’s putting it mildly.

If you’re going to make the trip between these two great Australian cities, take your time and drive the more scenic Sapphire Coast. You won’t be disappointed.

Photo: teknorat

First, find yourself a killer rental deal and escape the city

You can find rentals for as low as $9.99/day with unlimited mileage at RedSpotRentals.

Melbourne’s sprawl takes about an hour to clear. Say goodbye to the crowded suburbs and find yourself amidst grazing land and livestock that outnumber people as you enter the Gippsland plains.

If it’s warm enough, crack open the windows and let the eucalyptus-laden breeze float in.

Lakes’ Entrance

About four hours out of Melbourne, you’ll come upon Lakes’ Entrance. Miles of estuary waterways twist their way to the horizon in either direction, and the whole lot rushes together violently with the tides through a channel you could throw a football across.

The waters churn with the clashing currents, the open ocean beyond full of whitecaps that throw up a grey haze of sea spray. In the distance, if you look hard enough, oil rig platforms can be made out hovering above the hazy ocean like alien spaceships.

Photo: Phillie Casablanca

During the winter months — that’s North American summer, remember — the town is deserted, and you should have no problem finding a cheap room for the night at a clean hostel. There is plenty of boating and fishing to be done here.

Lamb-lover alert: head to the Six Sisters and a Pigeon Café on the town’s main road for a tasty lamburger.

Twofold Bay and Eden

From Lakes’ Entrance, it’s only a few hours before you come over a ridge and are greeted with a panoramic view: Twofold Bay and the hills of Eden. The beer coasters at the local pub proclaim “a drinking town with a fishing problem” and the place smells salty and slightly sour.

Pull into the Killer Whale Museum to search for the skeleton of Old Tom, the orca whose pod hunted with the locals when Eden was a whaling town only two generations ago. (For more on this stranger-than-fiction story, read The Killers of Eden.)

At the wharf, watch the dolphins and seals dive lazily through schools of fish.

On Friday nights the Great Southern Inn holds a meat raffle. Buy tickets to support the local rugby team and to win yourself shrink-wrapped trays full of different meats and cuts from the local butcher to fill your barbecue while on the road.

Eden is more a working town than a tourist destination, with controversial woodchipping taking over from whaling as the area’s primary industry. There are plenty of B&Bs around, and judging by their posted rates, there is clearly a healthy tourism trade here.

Photo: misha.pics.word.

Bermagui and around

Leaving Eden, you’ll only be on the road for a few hours before reaching Bermagui. This town is even smaller. It’s in this region that I could happily spend my days hanging around the forgotten coastal villages with their pungent aromas of ocean and seafood.

The landscape is mixed: craggy cliff faces rise from a frothy ocean on one side and still, flat lakes lie in the shelter of the coastal dunes on the other.

Make sure you catch the legendary sunset with Mount Dromedary providing a dramatic backdrop. Boats stream back into port through the breakwater in the fading light. Keep your eyes open for the resident fairy penguins!

Back in the day, the Bermagui Hotel was a ramshackle pub with plenty of colorful characters swapping fishing tales at the bar. Nowadays, the rooms are painted in peach tones with matching towels and linens; you can even book a room with a spa bath.

There’s also a sushi joint here, right next to the hippie River Rock Café which gives surf lessons and serves up organic coffee and live music.

You could spend weeks exploring these parts — Tathra, Narooma, Lilli Pilli, Bateman’s Bay — take your pick.

Arrival in Sydney

Traffic in Sydney is no fun, even on a Sunday evening. The Harbour Bridge and Opera House are ghostly and spectacular by night, but the roadways, especially in the CBD (Central Business District), can be very confusing.

If you are staying in the city, plan to arrive early enough in the afternoon to give yourself time to settle in and discover a cozy little bistro, pub, or café overlooking the harbour to watch the sun go down.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

You’re gonna need some tunes to bop your head and sing badly to on your trip. Check out the Greatest Roadtrip Soundtrack Ever for some ideas.

This piece on Melbourne has some solid reasons for you to linger a while there, and Australia by the Numbers will give you a different perspective of the land down under.

Hiking in the Diamond Head area of Garibaldi Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada
Photographer: footloosiety

Community Connection

If you’re looking to be inspired by fellow travelers, Matador’s the place for you. Sign up today.

Photo: Larsz / Feature photo: Mike Willis

1. Spearfish Canyon National Scenic Byway

This is a fantastic drive in any season, where you’ll find granite walls specked with Black Hills spruce and aspen, tumbling waterfalls, and rolling creeks cascading over rocky beds.

The hike to Roughlock Falls is the perfect way to connect with nature. In the fall months the reds, oranges, and yellows of the trees, combined with the deep canyon walls and surging falls, provide plenty of visual and aural stimulation.

Photo: allygirl520

2. Deadwood

This restored gold-mining town is a national historic landmark, with architecture dating from the late nineteenth century. Gambling is legal here, so if you enjoy the slots, or just like bantering with witty bartenders, head to one of the numerous casinos.

If history is what you’re after, Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane are buried at the Mount Moriah Cemetery. The Adam’s House Museum provides an educational perspective on Deadwood and the Black Hills.

There are also some great events in town. My favorite, the Deadwood Jam in mid-September, is an eclectic music festival showcasing blues, country, rock ‘n’ roll, and reggae. You can line up lawn chairs at the outdoor venue, crack open some drinks, and enjoy the local company.

3. Mount Rushmore

Visiting Mount Rushmore renews my patriotic spirit no matter how many times I’ve seen it. National pride swells as your eyes wander over the 60ft carvings by Gutzon Borglum and his 400 helpers. The nightly lighting ceremony, accompanied by patriotic music, is a reminder to be thankful for the privileges we enjoy as Americans.

4. Keystone

Two miles from Mount Rushmore, Keystone is an entertaining stop. Dip into the shops and restaurants, fly down the alpine slide, or watch a wood carver transform a tree stump into a proud bald eagle or bulky bison. You can also ride a tram, pan for gold, relax on the verandas, and visit the Presidential Wax Museum.

Big Time Pizza in the Roosevelt Inn has the best pies in the region. Ask for my favorite, the Super Supreme.

5. Hill City

This hospitable town has a quaint Main Street lined with art galleries and shops full of gifts and antiques. Hill City is also home to the 1880 steam train, which winds it’s way from here to Keystone.

Near Rapid City — the gateway to the Black Hills — visit the Circle B Ranch for an authentic western experience. Eat a proper cowboy meal, bob your head to twangy country music, watch a gun fight, and go horseback riding. The Flying T Chuckwagon Supper & Show or the Fort Hays Chuckwagon Supper & Show can also satisfy the little cowboy in you.

6. Crazy Horse Memorial

My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes, also.

- Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear to Korczak Ziolkowski

Photo: Jennifer L. Sovanski

These words set in motion the building of the Crazy Horse Memorial, 17 miles from Mount Rushmore. The head alone is planned to exceed the size of the presidents’ heads by over 20 feet.

Although Mr. Ziolkowski was twice offered $10 million from the U.S. government to fund the project, he declined it on the principle that his broader educational vision would be compromised by federal involvement.

Mr. Ziolkowski died in 1982 but his wife, Ruth, and most of their 10 children have continued the work.

7. Harney Peak

Hiking to the top of Harney Peak — the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains at 7,244 feet — is well worth the sweat. On my first attempt I was unable to make it to the top, despite encouragement from hikers coming down.

However, I vowed to make it the next time — and I did. On a clear day, you have panoramic views of South Dakota, Wyoming, Nebraska, North Dakota, and Montana from the fire lookout tower.

On the way down, this time it was I who encouraged others to keep going.

8. Needles Highway

Located in Custer State Park, the Needles Highway is a road worth traveling for views of the 20-40ft granite spires reaching to the sky, backdropped by thick forest. Drive carefully — the single-lane tunnel is a little harrowing.

9. Caves

There are eight caves to tour in the Black Hills, two being part of national parks and six owned privately. Inside one of the largest cave systems in the world, you can expect to see unique calcite crystals, arranged in a honeycomb-like pattern, embedded in the limestone walls.

As the temperatures in the caves stay consistently in the 50s F, they’re great for cooling off when it’s too hot up top.

Photo: IndigoValley

10. Custer State Park

At 71,000 acres, Custer State Park is a great place for wildlife viewing. You can spot hordes of buffalo grazing on the green grass from Wildlife Loop Road.

Every time I see them, I’m amazed by their size and presence and am reminded of their connection to the Lakota Nation, who relied on buffalo for survival.

I giggle at the wild burros in the park, who stick their snouts into car windows looking for food. Mountain goats, antelope, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, and wild turkeys are other animals you might be able to glimpse during a visit.

Looking for some relaxation? The lakes here are the perfect prescription for stress. Swim or fish, or simply wade around for some therapeutic calming.

More information

Make sure you visit the South Dakota Tourism website for more on the area’s history, events, and things to do.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re looking for more great itineraries and ideas in the States, check out Gateway to Pristine America: 12 Towns on the Edge of Spectacular Wilderness and Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides.

Why not save some money while you’re at it? Have a read of 8 Ways to Save Money on a U.S. Cross-Country Road Trip.

Photo: paleontour

If you’re the kind of traveler that likes to defy danger and the wishes of the local indigenous people, then you’d better get your butt Down Under real soon. If the National Parks and the Anangu people of the Western Desert have their way, it will be illegal to climb this famous Australian landmark.

Photo: rplzzz

Less is still too much

As it is, there are heaps less people making the climb than before. In 1990, three-quarters of visitors reached the 340 meter peak, whereas today that ratio has shrunk to just one-third.

But that still translates to 250 people per day. 250 more than the Parks and the locals would like to see up there.

Besides the cultural sensitivity issues, it’s a dangerous climb. To further deter tourists from attempting it, details of more than 30 deaths await you at the base.

There are also sanitary reasons why you shouldn’t do it. A lack of toilets on the sacred rock mean that some hikers are damaging the local environment as their waste runs down into the waterholes around the rock.

For and against

Not only is the Federal Opposition party opposed, but Prime Minister Kevin Rudd rejects the proposal:

Obviously it’s a question of public safety and managing important parts of our natural landscape…I think it would be very sad if we got to a stage though where Australians and frankly our guests from abroad weren’t able to enjoy that experience…to climb it.

However, there is no shortage of folks who are fully behind the idea of an outright ban, including many tourism operators. Ultimately, the decision may rest with Environment Minister Peter Garrett, the former frontman of politically charged Midnight Oil.

Mr. Garrett has never himself climbed Uluru, instead saying he’s respected the sign at the bottom placed there by the traditional owners, which states “Please don’t climb Uluru.” Although his preference is clear, he wants to make sure the correct decision is made:

There should be a debate amongst the stakeholders: the tourism industry, indigenous people, governments and others.

Stay tuned!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Have you hiked Uluru? Would you do it despite the request from the local aboriginals to refrain?

Share your thoughts below!

Photo: aaronbflickr

Most visitors to northern Chile make a beeline to the small inland town of San Pedro de Atacama and never look back. Yet, the best combination of the region’s two most rewarding natural resources — the desert and the coast — is found a few hundred miles to the southwest.

Natural diversity: from desert, to beaches, to penguins

Pan de Azucar National Park occupies over 43,000 hectares, straddling the border of Chile’s Regions II and III. There’s a thin strip of coastal paradise, flanked by miles and miles of desert stretching away from the shore.

Photo: ^riza^

Beach camping is what’s on tap. Wake up to an ocean sunrise, join the seagulls and sandpipers for a quick dip in the sea, and then relax on the sand.

Once you’ve had your fill of beach soccer, surfing, and sunbathing, take a hike to the top of the Mirador for an excellent view of the stark Atacama landscape. Ask the park rangers for more information on the Mirador walk, along with other hiking opportunities.

And don’t forget the penguins! Boats depart from Caleta for tours around Isla Pan de Azucar. There you’ll see sealions laze and bark and Humboldt penguins chatter amongst themselves on the shore.

How to get there

The park lies 800 km north of Santiago and just 30 km from Chañaral. Renting a car, which can be done in Antofagasta or Copiapó, is the most convenient way to reach Pan de Azucar. Hitchhiking is also possible, helped by the fact that Chile is probably South America’s safest country.

A third option is to take a bus to Chañaral, conveniently located on the Pan-American Highway, and then hop a minibus or collectivo to the park.

Where to stay

The four campgrounds (Caleta Pan de Azucar, Piqueros, Soldado, and Piqueros Norte) sit on long strips of white-sand beach, ten minutes from the park entrance.

Photo: ~chicchun~

Soldado and Piqueros Norte are group areas — Soldado mainly sees families, while Piqueros Norte is where young singles flock.

These two campgrounds are the best; the sites are located farther apart from each other for more privacy, and they offer the best views of the ocean. They come with a canopy, campfire ring, and table and chairs. Nearby are bathrooms and cold-water showers, plus sinks for washing dishes.

Also available are a few “fully equipped” beach cabanas, each sleeping six.

Caleta and Piqueros are less expensive but sites are cramped — your view may very well consist of the back of another tent.

Sign up for a campsite at the administration station, which is open from 8:30-12:30am and 2-6pm.

Costs

Photo: law_keven

Beach cabanas: $20,000-$40,000 CLP per night, depending on the season
Campsite at Piqueros Norte or Soldado: $3500 CLP per person, per night
Campsite at Caleta or Piqueros: $2000 CLP per person, per night
Park entrance fee: $3500 CLP per person ($1500 CLP for children)
Boatride to Isla Pan de Azucar: $5000 CLP per person

Special tip: The budget-conscious can try talking to the rangers about a “servicio.” Depending on their mood, you might be able to convince them to let you pick up litter on the beach or empty the garbage bins in the bathrooms in exchange for a night’s stay.

Additional tips

* Though Caleta has a small store, its prices are exorbitant and its selection meager. Buy food and supplies before arriving. There are also vendors who come through in the afternoon with empanadas and sweets, but you shouldn’t rely on them either.

* Pack a flashlight, matches, a knife, plastic bags for trash, sunblock, and sunglasses. These are must-haves for camping in Pan de Azucar.

* A visit in spring (October, November, and December) will give you a look at the blossoming of exotic desert plants and families of guanacos (related to llamas).

* Despite the ocean’s tempering influence, this is still the desert — it gets cold at night, so bring a good jacket and a hat to stay warm.

*If you love the night sky, you’ll love Pan de Azucar. Pack your star map for some serious star gazing.

Community Connection

Matador is the place to read up on Chile! Relevant titles include:

Destinations

Community Connection to Chile

Chile’s Best Coast Towns (which, incidentally, happens to feature Pan de Azucar)

8 Natural Wonders of Chile

10 Reasons to Base Your Study Abroad Experience in Chile

7 Reasons to Learn Spanish in Chile

What People Are Listening to in Chile

Trekking Torres Del Paines, Patagonia, Chile

1.A view from the “Going to the Sun” road. Photo by .Bala.

2.Bits of glacier dotting the mountains. Photo by fddi1.

3.Birthplace of the watershed. Photo by fddi1.

4.The path to Hidden Lake at Logan Pass. Photo by fddi1.

5.Bear in early summer. Feature photo and photo above by Gregg Treinish.

6.Sunset over Glacier National Park. Photo by backpackphotography.

7.A cloudy day at Glacier. Photo by mtsrs.

8.A mountain goat lingering in the shadows. Photo by Gregg Treinish.

9.A lone house in the wilderness. Photo by .Bala.

10.Bluebird day at Glacier. Photo by celebdu.

11.Upper headwaters in Glacier. Photo by celebdu.

12.Lake Josephine. Photo by Navin75.

13.Grinnell Lake. Photo by Navin75.

Community Connection

Interested in visiting Glacier or elsewhere in Montana? Matador has put together one of the most comprehensive resources for Big Sky you’ll find anywhere, including locals’ recommendations for trails, rivers, mountains, restaurants, and bars.

All photos by author

Montana’s Beartooth Scenic Highway (Hwy 212) winds its way over the spine of the Rocky Mountains at 10,970 feet, linking Red Lodge to Cooke City at Yellowstone National Park’s Northeast Entrance. But this byway is more than tight switchbacks and sharp, snowy granite mountains.

Here are six ways to explore this route’s unique terrain and local culture:

1. Spring Skiing on Beartooth Pass

For expert skiers and snowboarders wanting to get a few more turns this summer: bring your skis or board. The couloirs at Beartooth Pass are skiable or ridable until early July and sometimes later, and there’s chairlift access until July 4.

Beartooth Pass has been a historic late-season training area. In 1966, the U.S. Olympic team used the bowl just below the road’s highpoint for training, leaving their equipment behind for the public.

There are plenty of other places along the highway where late-season snowfields are accessible if you don’t mind hiking or hitching rides with tourists traveling up the highway. There is no terrain there for beginners, however. Everything is steep and avalanches are common, especially in the non-lift-accessed areas.

2. National Ski Jouring Finals, Red Lodge

Ski Jouring is like water skiing on snow, where the skier is pulled by sled dogs or horses. Competitors weave through an obstacle course of slalom gates and jumps, sometimes reaching 25 mph. The second day of the Finals includes a big air competition with jumps lofting skiers up to 60 feet.

3. Ride at the Bear Tooth Rally

2009’s Bear Tooth Rally runs from July 17-19. Thousands of riders will be converging on Red Lodge for a series of events including a ride from Red Lodge up and through Beartooth Pass into Cooke City, then looping back to Red Lodge along the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. It’s a round trip of approximately 120 miles, covered in a single day.

There’s also a ‘poker ride’ up the pass, and the Iron Horse Rodeo, where bikers show off their skills piloting their 700 lb steeds on loose dirt around a series of barrels.

4. Snowmobiling in Cooke City

Sledding in this Beartooth region is world class; just ask the development teams of both Arctic Cat and Yamaha. Both companies use the area as testing grounds for their newest equipment. Cooke City has one of the longest winter-sports seasons in the lower 48, with plenty of varied terrain.

5. Festivals and events in Red Lodge and Cooke City

Red Lodge and Cooke City both have rich local histories they celebrate each summer. Red Lodge has the infamous Mountain Man Rendezvous, where participants reenact the old days when trappers gathered to trade supplies, gamble, tell tall tales, fight, and get roaring drunk.

In contrast, the Festival of Nations, held the third week in August, is a much tamer but equally interesting festival. It began as a yearly gathering of immigrant laborers, working in mines and on farms, who would show off the dances and cuisine of their homelands.

Be ready to eat worldly food, watch traditionally dressed performers, and participate in various workshops showcasing skills brought from the Old Country.

Cooke City upholds their less eclectic traditions with their Spring Fling celebration, complete with live music, hog roast, and charity auction hocking everything from arts and crafts to snowmobile parts. The Cooke City Fish Fry has been a town-wide shindig since the 1920s, starting as a last hurrah to get people together before the heavy snow plunged the town into isolation.

In the early days, the Fry included boxing, horse racing, and gambling. Though it’s more sedate now, it’s still worth checking out if you’re in the area on the first weekend in August.

Beartooth Falls

6. The Great Outdoors (hiking, fishing, and mountaineering)

While it’s possible to take in the scenery from the road, being truly immersed in the Beartooth Wilderness is what being here is all about. There are over 700 miles of trails in the region, as well 300 lakes, some of them so remote they have yet to be named. The fish here see so few hooks that they grow to. . . mythical proportions.

Beartooth Plateau has the distinction of being the largest true high-elevation plateau in the continental U.S. There are heaps of climbing options with 25 over-12,000ft peaks, including Granite Peak at 12,807 — Montana’s highest.

While the elevation may seems low by western standards, the harsh conditions lead to a treeline that’s thousands of feet lower, exposing the craggy, vertical rock.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Experience Montana this summer! Matador has spent the spring creating a one-stop resource for planning great Montana roadtrips, whether you want to go backpacking, paddling, or just hit up some of the local bars, restaurants, and breweries.

Photo above and feature photo: Gret@Lorenz

Tasty Cuisine

Rabat and Fez are the best places for serious culinary explorations. While Rabat is the most modern and comfortable Moroccan city, Fez is traditional and fascinating. Both offer perfect moods for culinary adventures and both have attracted some of the best chefs in the country.

Some might argue that Marrakech is also a great culinary destination — and I wouldn’t disagree — but what’s happening in Rabat and Fez goes beyond catering to tourists and is directed at locals as well.

Here are some unique Moroccan culinary experiences worth seeking out:

White truffles

Photo: Gret@Lorenz

You can find these for sale along the road from Rabat to Meknes.

Artfully stacked on overturned buckets, they’re sold near oak trees growing in a special soil that stimulates the symbiotic relationship between the truffle and the oak roots.

Argan oil

A specialty of Morocco. It’s a toasty, nutty oil, traditionally derived from a complex process: the undigested pits of the Argan fruit, after being eaten by tree-climbing goats, are picked from the animals’ dung, then cleaned and toasted.

Next, the pits are ground or pressed and the oil is bottled for culinary uses or further processed for cosmetic creams and ointments.

But worry not, today the oil is produced in a more sanitary way. Its taste is a cross between peanut oil and freshly mashed green olives — an absolutely delicious way to dress a salad.

Saffron

Taliouine — south of Marrakech — offers a unique twist to the more commonly available Spanish and Iranian saffrons. The saffron of Taliouine has its own flavor due to southern Morocco’s soil makeup.

Wine

The Meknes Valley yields the finest Moroccan wine, which has come a long way. While wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times, in the past twenty years the industry has begun to make certain vintages that wine lovers the world over would gladly add to their cellars.

Photo: dominikgolenia

A particular favorite of mine is Château Roslane Premier Cru from A.O.C. Les Coteaux de l’Atlas.

Escargot

Steamed and ladled cups of brothy escargot are a fun snack that you will most likely see on the street at night.

People gather around the snail seller’s cart and sip and nibble on these hot little striped-shell delicacies.

Sacred Experiences

The biggest challenge to travel in Morocco is that non-Muslim visitors are not allowed into mosques and shrines, with the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca being the exception.

Yet, the natural beauty of Morocco more than makes up for this and possesses what my Moroccan friend Saadia would call “the Big Waloo” — the Big Nothing — as in total, pure divine presence.

From ocean vista to mountain pass to the Big Waloo of the rosy-orange desert dunes of the south, the natural world’s sacred is open to all. You can take your pick following your own preferences.

For ocean-lovers, explore the Atlantic coast from Asilah to Essaouira.

Photo: Rosino

If you’re into mountains, anywhere in the interior — from north to south — gives way to great views whose only sign of human habitation comes from the shepherds and their brown-faced sheep, black goats, and sturdy donkeys.

Those who hear the desert’s call should head south to Merzouga and ride on a camel trek into the dunes.

For a rare chance at experiencing Moroccan sacred traditions as a local, come to Fez in June and July for The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when sacred spaces otherwise closed to visitors open their doors throughout the city.

Another similar music festival unfolds annually in Essaouira in June: The Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

Romantic Locales

Asilah and Essaouira command a romantic air, with their oceanside settings and well-established art scenes. These are also two cities with an open, international mood that makes them relaxing.

Asilah is smaller and a bit more intimate, while Essaouira has more expansive possibilities. Both have the dramatic backdrop of fortified old towns against the great watery blue of the Atlantic.

Rabat is Morocco’s most mellow and cosmopolitan city, one that invites visitor interaction with the locals. Numerous cafes offer comfortable places for men and women to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee.

Photo: Vibragiel

Seaside Rabat’s medieval neighborhood, the walled medina, is a welcoming place to walk, shop, and talk to artisans carving or painting wood or working silver and gold.

Finally, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital of this part of Africa (and known in Arabic as Walili), is worth a mention.

Its romantic appeal lies in the beautiful Meknes Valley that surrounds it, and in the ancient stones and mosaics of the old city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Other guides in the Eat, Pray, Love series can be found on Portugal and Spain.

Three more articles that will satiate your food, spirit, and love needs are The World’s Best Cities for Late Night Food, How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World, and The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France.

Photo: clspeace

The Montana that most folks seek is all about wilderness, western mythology, and epic trout fishing. Even with the arrival of high-end eateries and increasingly expensive accommodations in iconic western American towns like Whitefish and Hamilton, you can still come away after a week or two in Montana with solitary experiences and money left in your billfold. Here’s how.

Photo: .Bala

Transportation

The best way to see Montana is by car.

Yes, there’s Amtrak and airports, but in the planes, trains, and automobiles trifecta, bet on the latter. Gas is a bit cheaper this year and as a rule Montana boasts some of the lowest petrol prices in the US.

The flexibility of your own ride allows for either intense investigation of one portion of the state, or a decent linear sample of Montana’s high mountains and vast prairies.

Lodging

For lodging, I subscribe to a “2/3 camping + 1/3 motel room” formula on a summer road trip, ideal in a place with plentiful outdoor sleeping options.

Besides Glacier National Park, there are nine national forests and several state parks to explore.

One unique lodging alternative involves rental of a historic fire lookout, ranger residence, or bunkhouse. Over 90 are available in the national forests. Cost is around $30.00 per night for four people, with varying levels of modern conveniences and accessibility.

They make excellent base camps for hiking, fishing, berry picking, or simply lying amongst the wildflowers in a nearby meadow (as a botany nerd, that’s where you’ll find me).

Montana is covered with campgrounds: private, public, developed, undeveloped. The latter works well if you are self contained and have no need for running water or flush toilets. They’re also best in terms of budgeting: free of charge.

Fancier campsites will cost no more than $15.00 per night. You can reserve ahead of time, good advice when approaching summer tourist hot spots. I tend to take my chances and have no qualms following an obscure Forest Service road a few miles to some unknown place. The further off the beaten path, the less competition for camping space and more opportunity for Montana-style peace and quiet.

Travelers needing a proper mattress, lights, and hot water, will find them in every town offering the typical low/moderate/high range of lodging options. I go low end to kick the dirt off, catch an installment of SportsCenter and regroup. A complimentary breakfast is always a plus.

Summer is high season and hotels/motels close to Glacier and Yellowstone will be spendy and without vacancies. This is when wandering far afield may prove scenically and financially beneficial.

Photo: Eric_Ulmer

In 2008, a friend and I stayed in an obscure fly-to resort for small plane enthusiasts when all the Highway 93 hotels were booked in Hamilton due to a June pow wow.

For $37.50 each we shared a cabin with a gorgeous view of the Bitterroots, the only guests of the chatty Cessna pilot/innkeeper and his wife.

Come day break, we found out we were just up canyon from Triple Creek Ranch, a five-star spot for the Travel and Leisure set starting at $325.00 a night per person. I don’t know what that extra $225.00 would have gotten us exactly, but I don’t think our dogs would have been welcome.

Food

In keeping with a camping/DIY strategy, preparing meals most of the time goes easier on the food budget. There’s not a town in Montana right now without a Saturday farmer’s market. The absence of a sales tax is another money saver. Montana offers morels in the spring, huckleberries in the summer, and trout all year long. You can acquire other foodstuffs on your own or purchase them along the way.

Dine out sparingly, saving up for something spectacular for supper one night and brunch come Sunday. For comprehensive, statewide dining recommendations, check out Munching Montana: A Road Trip Guide to Montana’s Most Unique Local Food.

Getting Priorities Straight

My cash goes to adventures:

Photo: bugeaters

A whitewater plunge in kayak or raft, a knowledgeable fishing guide, or a night’s stay at a hot springs resort with therapeutic waters pumped into my private claw-foot tub. I keep the day-to-day simple, inexpensive, sweet tasting, and scenic.

Not being much of a shopper, my souvenir and gift purchases center on things I can eat, read, or listen to. I’m certain the dozen-plus Matador Montana experts concur and can expand on these suggestions.

These general hints and an Internet click over to Travel Montana should have you cruising the fun and frugal road to my favorite geographical neighbor. See you in the huckleberry patch in a few weeks!

Community Connection

If exploring Big Sky Country sounds good to you, make sure to read up on Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides and 9 Montana Backpacking Trips That Will Blow Your Mind.

Photo above: Seamus Murray, Feature photo: Author

You have to stay close to home this summer. For East Coasters, that often translates to vacation destinations like the Vineyard, Cape, or Hamptons.

Or, you could let I-95 carry you a little farther north for an exploration of Maine’s Mount Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park. Here’s what awaits:

1. World-class scenery

Acadia has preserved two-thirds of Mount Desert Island, regularly ranked among the ten most beautiful islands in the world because of its rocky coastline, glacial lakes, boreal forests, and the only fjord on America’s Atlantic coast.

Add in lighthouses and fishing villages, and you’ll understand its unique appeal to travelers who love both the mountains and the sea.

Photo: Author

2. Maine’s adventure triathlon

Hiking, biking, and kayaking are the trio of Acadia sports that take advantage of the park’s 130 miles of trails and 57 miles of car-free carriage roads.

Rock climbing sites are first-class, including the 110-foot Otter Cliff, where you rappel down over the crashing Atlantic surf and then climb back up.

3. Budget campgrounds

The national park service offers two campgrounds for $10-$20/night. Or, for those not into roughing it, there are other options ranging from 50s-style motels in Bar Harbor to romantic B&Bs all over the island.

If your stay is a week or longer, try negotiating rates on a rental. (Even before the meltdown, an oversupply yielded some flexibility from owners.)

4. Car-free transport

L.L. Bean offers a free, ecofriendly bus service around the island that’ll save you money and make you feel even better for foregoing that cross-hemisphere plane trip this summer. Additionally, an Acadia website lists several options for getting to Bar Harbor without a car.

Photo: Author

5. Tasty microbreweries

Awarding-winning American microbrews are born on this island at Bar Harbor Brewing and Atlantic Brewery. You can skip the tour and just join the generous tastings to do your part to “save the ales.”

6. Maine lobster

The island abounds in lobster pounds featuring mussels, steamers, New England clam chowder, and lobster pulled straight from Maine’s icy waters, which makes it the sweetest, most delicious catch anywhere.

7. Your sister-in-law lies

Nothing’s free. She’ll guilt you into picking up the tab at one of the Vineyard’s $40-entrée restaurants that make you feel just like you’d stayed home anyway.

Community Connection:

For more Maine fun, read about Katahdin: Maine’s Mountain, The Best Hiking Trail in Maine, and Trips’ Green Guide to (the Other) Portland.

Matador members advenjunkie, Laisee, AbbyB, and aya all either hail from Maine or are currently in-state. Get your networking on!

Photo: Bernt Rostad

OK. You’ve decided you want to take the world’s longest and most famous train ride. But aside from playing cards, drinking tea (ahem, vodka), and eating noodles on the train, what are you going to do? Unless you really have to be somewhere, I highly recommend at least a few stops along the journey.

Kizhi Island

Hardly a quick side trip, Kizhi Island — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is a bit off the beaten track. It’s most easily visited from Petrozavodsk, which is an overnight train ride from St. Petersburg. Yes, most people begin their Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow, but I say if you’re going to do it, go all out and start from St. Pete.

Photo: Author

From Petrozavodsk, it’s a quick ferry ride (or snowcat in the winter) to this open-air museum of fantastic wooden architecture.

The Transconfiguration Church, with its 22 domes, is the obvious eye-pleaser. Russia’s oldest wooden church, dating back to the 14th century — the Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus — is also a highlight. It’s crazy to think that these wooden structures use no nails or metal at all.

The reconstructed village of Karelia offers some insight into the traditions and life of peasants in the Karelia region. While there is no overnight accommodation for visitors, there are some residents living on the island.

Kizhi is also accessible as a port of call for cruises between Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Note: Smoking on the island is prohibited!

Suzdal

Photo: Author

You’ll most likely be spending time in Moscow. If you want to get away from the hectic city for a breather, a five-hour bus ride will get you to the little church town of Suzdal. There are more churches than you can shake a stick at, and they are mostly architecturally varied. At one point in time there was one church per every 12 residents.

It’s a beautiful (and I dare say romantic) town to stroll around, with its colourful little houses, green meadows, and peaceful streams. Watch old Ladas sputter past you and chickens peck religiously on front lawns.

Suzdal is part of the Golden Ring, a chain of towns northeast of Moscow. Each one played an important part in Russian history and culture, including a “significant role in the formation of the Russian Orthodox Church,” so you may also want to work more of these into your itinerary.

Krasnoyarsk

Photo: Author

A tick over 4000 kms east of Moscow is the city of Krasnoyarsk. After being on the train for 65 hours you’ll want a chance to give your legs a good, long stretch. This is the perfect place for it.

The Stolby Nature Reserve can be reached by city bus and is home to the famous “pillars.” Scattered throughout the forest are tall and unusually shaped rock structures; they are the object of tradition and folklore to the residents of Krasnoyarsk.

They also make a great base for practicing free climbing — rock climbing without a rope — which we gave a shot on a couple of the smaller rocks. Just be careful; going up is one thing, coming down is a bit tougher.

Olkhon Island

Everyone stops in Irkutsk; it’s just something you do. But not everyone makes the trip to Olkhon Island, a small piece of land in Lake Baikal.

A bus (or van) transports you six hours away from Irkutsk, along both smooth and bumpy roads, and across the water on a small ferry, before unloading you in Kuzhir. Kuzhir is the largest settlement on the island which I heard just got electricity in 2005. Better late than never.

Photo: Cyrille Le Déaut

Nikita’s Homestay is the place to go for accommodation. Try to get into one of the cozy little huts with a wood-burning stove. The costs include all meals, which are wonderful and usually feature the native Baikal fish, omul.

They’ll even pack up your lunch in a take-away bag if you want to go off and explore the island. There are sandy beaches, rolling hills, and taiga to keep you busy. And when you’re out there, stop and listen to the silence. It’s golden.

The only way to shower at Nikita’s is banya style. These are Russian saunas, where you sweat yourself silly for a while, then pour cool water from a barrel over yourself (or your partner) with a big ladle. Soap up, rinse, repeat. This is best done late in the evening because you will want to sleep right after. If only I could build one of these in my flat.

More options

10 minutes outside Omsk / Photo: Bernt Rostad

Of course, there are numerous other stops you can make along the way to break up your trip. If the thought of three days on the train between Moscow and Krasnoyarsk has you feeling claustrophobic already, you may want to consider overnighting at Ekatinerinburg, Omsk, and/or Novosibirsk.

Don’t overstay your visa

Be very careful of your visa situation. A Finnish couple we hosted received their Russian visa, valid for a week. Even though the embassy assured them it was alright before they left, they were detained and extorted for ridiculous sums of money as they tried to exit Russia after their visas expired.

Don’t make the same mistake. Make sure your visa is good for a month and get out of dodge before it expires. It’s not a game worth playing.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Don’t think you can do this independently, with not one single agent’s help? Think again: Why You Should Travel Independently on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

For detailed blog entries about my trip in late 2007, the first post is here.

Photo above: jurvetson, Feature photo: tarotastic

The Kokoda Trail in Papa New Guinea (PNG) has been getting quite a bit of news as of late. Last month, two trekkers died while trying to complete it. Last week, Kovelo villagers, who felt they hadn’t seen the materialization of financial benefits promised by the Australian and PNG governments, blocked the trail. They were demanding $100 from each trekking group to pass.

As reported in this story from the Herald Sun, an agreement was reached which satisfied the villagers, and they have since ended their protest.

Some history about the trail

The Kokoda Trail was made famous during World War II, when the Australian army (the Diggers), eventually aided by the Americans, held off an invading Japanese army. Although the Japanese had the man and weaponry advantage, they weren’t prepared for the harsh conditions along this trail, the only route of escape for them.

In the end, the Japanese lost 13,000 out of 20,000 soldiers (contrast that with 6000 casualties on the Australian side).

An account of the trail as it was during WWII can be found at the Digger History website.

The trail today

Photo: panvorax

These days a number of companies operate trekking excursions on the trail. Local guides and porters can also be hired.

It’s possible to do the trek independently, but parts of the trail are unmarked and with the extreme temperatures that can be experienced there it’s not advisable to go on your own. Depending on your condition, it can take anywhere between five and 12 days.

If you’re a glutton for punishment, there’s the Kokoda Challenge, where teams of four compete to complete the 96 km course within the unbelievable time limit of 39 hours. All I can say is, good luck with that.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

For more treks, make sure to check out these two in Nepal: the Annapurna Sanctuary and the Mt. Kangchenjunga Circuit. Matador editor Tim Patterson also has some great tips for Trekking Central Laos.

Photo above: hermanusbackpackers, Feature photo: Iggy.

“Shark! SHARK! Get down, now!”

We each took a healthy breath and disappeared beneath the Indian Ocean. Two Great Whites sashayed just inches in front of us in rapid succession. Minutes later, another sprinted past in search of a morning snack.

Despite the fact that our guide’s instructions to head into the water when a shark was coming seemed a bit, well, counterintuitive, we’d obeyed without question. After all, we’d paid money to get close to Great Whites…in their natural environment.

Diving with sharks is often considered an extreme adventure activity. But instead I found it to be an educational — and yes, thrilling — way to gain an understanding of the creatures that have stricken fear in millions due to movies like Jaws and media reports of shark attacks.

Great Whites 101

Photo: Erik Charlton

My outing with Shark Lady Adventures (launching from Gansbaai, two hours east of Cape Town) began with an educational lesson about Great Whites. This included what kind of behavior to expect and a discussion about common myths.

Yes, they are carnivores. No, they’re not particularly interested in eating people.

Still, that assurance didn’t do much to ease the tension when our guide offered up this factoid: “Sharks can pick up heart vibrations easily. So if you get scared while you’re out there today, the sharks will know.”

Preparing to Get Intimate

Our boat jetted out to Shark Alley, which boasts the densest population of Great Whites in the world.

We opted for the “breath hold,” at our guide’s suggestion. It’s exactly what you’d expect — you hold your breath, dunk beneath the surface, and view the sharks swimming by — no diving certification necessary. The sharks we saw didn’t hang out in one spot anyway, so SCUBA gear wouldn’t have helped.

After anchoring, the cage was slowly lowered into the water. Our group watched in fascination.

“Does that thing look safe?” someone muttered to no one in particular.

It seemed sturdy, and of course we knew it was designed to protect shark-gazers like us. Still, it was hard not to imagine some minor flaw that would turn us into shark food.

The staff member we’d dubbed the “chum master” set to work creating a lovely chum soup to attract the sharks, while another chopped off a fish head to use as bait.

We slipped into full-body wetsuits, booties, and goggles. Once the bait was cast, the first group of four hopped into the cage — after a final reminder from the guide that we should “keep all of our limbs inside.”

Photo: Deon Maritz

Face to Face with the Ocean’s Top Predator

To save our breath, we were instructed to keep our heads above the surface until the guide gave the signal. It didn’t take long.

“SHARK COMING FROM THE LEFT…WAIT, WAIT…NOW! GO DOWN NOW!”

We gulped a breath and went down. The shark zipped by to say hi, a race of gray a finger’s length from our eyes.

When we came up again, we were all smiles, despite a few initial underwater shrieks. Another shark coasted by just moments later. And then another — this one body-checked the cage while going for the tuna bait. We were treated to a lovely view of his rows of sharp, not-so-pearly whites in the process.

Photo: hermanusbackpackers

It’s fascinating to see how different each animal is, and we soon started to recognize them. You can see their distinctive eyes, how their scars differ. Each one has its own personality.

Everyone had two 30-minute sessions in the cage, although our guides said the time can vary based on a variety of factors. You can also join a trip as a surface viewer, but I strongly suggest getting in the water.

I found it to be more of a fascination sport than an adrenaline one. Sure, it’s a tad scary when that first shark comes at you. But soon you realize the experience is simply about watching these creatures in their natural habitat and the fear dissipates.

Practicalities

The best months for shark sightings are April to August, while early January to mid-March tend to be the worst. When planning a shark diving adventure, keep in mind that inclement weather may prevent the boats from going out, so it’s best to allocate an extra day in case your original outing is postponed.

Most participants either do a day trip to Gansbaai from Cape Town or stay in nearby Hermanus.

Shark Lady Adventures charges R1500 (~$170) per person for the experience. For more information, visit their website. Cage Diver is another option.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Sharks, elephants, and bears, oh my! Find out how to come face to face with these and other perilous species in “8 Trips for Getting Close to the World’s Deadliest Animals.”

For something a bit tamer but equally unforgettable, read the Matador travel article “Diving with Whale Sharks.”

Photos: author

Park up, pour a glass of wine, and enjoy one of nature’s best shows.

Hossegor, France

Hossegor lies at the end of the Côte d’Argent, the longest uninterrupted stretch of sand in Europe — it seems to go on forever in both directions.

The beaches teem with young French and foreign surfers in the summer, capitalizing on the town’s waves and nightlife. The Gulf Stream ensures an unnaturally temperate sea, and thus climate — suited to both beach lazing and wine making — that make Hossegor an unbeatable spot to pull up and watch the sun go down.

Playa America, West Spain

The beach of Playa America sits just north of the border with Portugal. It’s the centrepiece of an authentic Spanish resort, peppered with tapas bars and seafood that makes it from crab-pot to plate within hours. The relaxed feel of the town stretches to the beach, where the long summer days mean extended sun basking.

As the Spanish don’t change their clocks for summertime — and you’re about as west as you get in Europe — afternoon slips into evening and the sun hangs on till eleven in June.

As it finally fades over the horizon, the sky takes on a rose-tinted glow.

Peniche, Portugal

The diverse selection of beaches around the old fishing town of Peniche makes it a perfect destination on any “North-South” European surf trip. Quite often, a “quick stop” becomes a longer stay.

The prime van spot overlooks the reef-break of Lagide; there’s usually a mini-village of 20 to 30 parked vans. You may have to wait an hour for someone to leave so you can snatch a prime front-row seat and watch surfers ride the left-hander.

The car park also has a cold-water shower — a genuine van-life treat — and a 300-degree perspective for sunset viewing as another day fades away.

Conil, South Spain

Almost squeezed through the Strait of Gibraltar by the unremitting Atlantic, Conil desperately hangs on and offers a final sanctuary before the package-holiday-hell that is the Spanish Mediterranean.

Less exposed than its western counterpart, the south coast of the Atlantic is a visually and physically mellower affair.

The historic fishing town of Conil is now a staple for Spanish tourists, and joining the masses for their late-afternoon promenade is an affirming communal experience. The scope of its beach is almost Saharan and the walk to the sea is a long but pleasant one.

The Med does offer Conil something: the sea is much warmer than farther west — you can surf here in boardshorts for much of the year — and on a clear evening you can make out the shores of Tangier and the Atlas Mountains far to the south.

The town itself stretches up behind you in a patchwork of whitewashed houses, providing an excellent screen on which to project the pinks and purples of Europe’s southernmost sunset.

Rioja, Spain

Although not technically on the Atlantic, Rioja is an essential addition given wine’s important role in promoting a full sensory sunset experience.

Rioja is one of Europe’s most celebrated wine regions and, as with its fizzier northern cousin Champagne, provides a promise of some of the best vino around.

Vines drape over the region’s hills and late afternoon provides a deep and vibrant tableau — the sunlight plays on the hills, the wine stimulates your taste buds…and the sunsets: a full-stop falling off the page at the end of another chapter.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Matador also has info on how to camperize your ride, as well as converting it to run for free on vegetable oil. For more interesting discussion on customizing your van, check out this community forum post.

All photos: Carl Montgomery

Near-continuous violence since the Soviets invaded in 1979 has been effective at erasing Afghanistan from most tourists’ maps.

But it seems the government is hoping for a change with the creation last week of the country’s first national park. In addition to attracting visitors, the park should provide vital protection to a region where it’s been lacking in the past.

Band-e-Amir National Park is located in central Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush Mountains and includes five high-altitude lakes. Nearby Bamyan Valley made headlines in 2001 when its massive, 1,500-year-old Buddha statues where dynamited by the Taliban.

The park’s establishment could also tip the scales in the region’s favor regarding its pending candidacy for UNESCO World Heritage status.

Visitors will still have difficulties to contend with — ongoing military actions being the first that comes to mind, as well as a local fishing method utilizing hand grenades. But the park also offers much in the way of pristine nature, according to BBC reporter Alan Johnston:

“In the stillness of the high, thin air, the blue and turquoise waters are often like glass, perfectly reflecting the slopes around them.”

For more on this fresh travel destination, check out the BBC’s take here.

Community Connection:

Alan Johnston isn’t the only one reporting from the ground in Afghanistan. Matador members YoLeven and moshdeh are currently in-country, and they’ve posted a couple killer blogs about their experiences.

Other ideas on travel to protected natural areas, including some as unexpected as this one, can be found in 13 of the World’s Richest National Parks.

Photo above: NeilsPhotography, Feature photo: juanete

Psychedelic desert: the Southwest Circuit

You’re in the middle of Bolivian nowhere.

In front of you is a shallow bowled depression, its center carpeted in a bright green lake filled with flamingos. Over your shoulder rise twin volcanic peaks, capped with ice. Just beyond the next ridge stretches a snow-white salt flat, rippling with heat from the midday sun…

Few travelers to Bolivia miss the “Southwest Circuit.” The Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat, is its star attraction. Standing in the center of its 4,000-square-mile expanse, horizons vanish, leaving nothing but blinding white below and rich, unblemished blue above.

Those lucky enough to visit during the wet summer, when the entire plain is covered in an inches-thick pool of water that reflects the cloudy sky, can convince themselves their Land Cruiser has taken flight.

But the salar fills only one day of the circuit tour. The rest are spent tearing through some of the most inhospitable desert terrain on the planet.

Brilliantly colored chemical lakes, peak after peak of snowy volcanoes, and Andean wildlife (llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, flamingos, and ostrich, for starters) all compete with the salar for your camera’s memory card megabytes.

Photo: zaturno

I doubt anyone regrets the trip—that said, all tours are not created equal.

The salar and deserts of Los Lípez see more visitors every year. Caravans of jeeps depart daily from the town of Uyuni, the traditional starting point. After four days stuck in the middle of the globular tourist amoeba, many are left asking, “Is there a better way to do this?”

The answer is yes.

Turn the tables: start in Tupiza

Your best option for escaping the crowds is to traverse the circuit in reverse. Make the town of Tupiza your point of origin, with a tour that loops through the sights and ends in Uyuni.

Photo: zaturno

In addition to having the Lípez to yourself, you’ll be saving the best for last. Why knock out the salar on the first day, as the typical Uyuni tours do? They also require a long, backtracking drive on the last day.

By ditching the masses, you’ll avoid the sketchier agencies operating out of Uyuni. Companies there pop up and disappear again without notice, making it close to impossible to get reliable recommendations.

For the most part, Tupiza-based agencies are more established. They have a smaller customer base, and therefore more to prove.

Regardless of who you go with, your tour from Tupiza will look something like this:

Day 1

Bust out of town around 9am and drive till sunset through canyon-cut, cactus-covered terrain. Though lacking “big-name” sights, the day exposes you to the desolation of Los Lípez and gives you a glimpse of what life is like for the few communities living here. Other jeeps = scarce to nonexistent.

Day 2

The mountainous, llama-filled desert continues, transforming mile by mile into the surreal vistas that make it onto the postcards. Once you enter Eduardo Avaroa National Wildlife Refuge, it’s on: colored lakes, hot springs, flamingo flocks, geysers, crazy rock formations, and painted volcanoes.

At some point, you’ll hit Laguna Verde and Volcán Licancabur in the country’s southwest corner. From here, you can tack on an extra day and climb the 19,400 ft (5900 m) Licancabur or other peaks. It’s also possible to hop over the border, connecting to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.

Photo: wili_hybrid

Day 3

After two days of solitude, the Land Cruisers start to multiply around the eerily red Laguna Colorada. Pulling up at the sculpted rocks that surround Árbol de Piedra, only to find them covered with sunburned, North-Faced climbers, comes as quite a shock.

More lakes await, and the end of the day will bring you to the edge of the salar itself.

Day 4

Photo: hillsieboy

This is really a long half day. Wake before dawn to catch the sunrise on the salt.

A visit to the cactus-infested Isla del Pescado is followed by a group photo shoot in the middle of the salar, where the lack of distance perspective makes all kinds of crazy camera illusions possible.

After checking out a hotel made entirely of salt and a stop at a tourist market, you should pull into Uyuni around 1pm.

Practicalities

Tupiza is roughly 11 hours by train from Oruro, and a handful more from La Paz. Hop the train if you can; the buses running the route are old and drafty. Breakdowns are common.

Solo travelers and couples should schedule at least one extra day in Tupiza — longer in the low season — to find a group to hook up with. Standard tours won’t leave with fewer than four passengers; five or six means less legroom but bigger savings.

Photo: Naturaleza

Killing time in town isn’t difficult. This is Butch and Sundance country (the outlaws were gunned down in a village less than an hour away), with scenery rivaling the best of the American West.

Horseback riding, canyon hiking, and rock climbing will keep you occupied till your tour leaves.

Operators running out of Tupiza are scarce compared to the hordes of Uyuni-based agencies. Tupiza Tours is one of the originals and has managed to maintain a solid reputation through the years. Yet even with them, it’s essential to double check the contract—triple check if your group is doing anything other than the standard 4-day tour.

Other options include Valle Hermoso and El Grano de Oro Tours.

One last note: it gets cold in the desert. Damn cold. Accommodations are basic and unheated. Bring a sleeping bag or rent one from your company — even in the summer. During the winter, if you’re lucky your guide will give you a hot water bottle each night to stuff into the bottom of your bag. Yeah…daaaamn cold.

Photo: jaytkendall

Community Connection:

Check out today’s companion post, “Summiting Mount Doom in Bolivia,” for further details on climbing Volcán Licancabur.

For more on Bolivia’s spectacular sights, read about photographer Ron Dubin’s assignment in the country in “Big Bolivian Sunsets.”

If you’re looking to mix a little philanthropy with your visit to the country, Matador member org Sustainable Bolivia offers a range of rewarding volunteer opportunities.

Photo: Winky in the UK

One of the first mentions of a national park came from William Wordsworth in 1810. Looking out over England’s Lake District, he commented that it should be a “national property in which every man has a right and interest who has an eye to perceive and a heart to enjoy.”

It wasn’t until 1872 that Yellowstone — widely considered the world’s first national park — was officially established in the United States. Today, there are an estimated 6,555 national parks worldwide. Here are 13 to get you started.

1. Sagarmatha (Nepal)

Covering 1,148 square kilometers and four climatic zones, the UNESCO-listed Sagarmatha National Park is more than mountain views. The hiking route through the park in the direction of Mount Everest is one of Nepal’s best treks.

Photo: cotaro70s

2. Grand Canyon (USA)

A U.S. classic, Grand Canyon National Park contains one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Beyond staring wide-eyed from the South Rim and riding a mule to the bottom, the park has plenty of terrain for extended backpacking, cultural exploration, and Colorado River trips.

Photo: B Rosen

3. Sundarbans (India)

The dense mangrove forests of Sundarbans National Park in West Bengal make an ideal home for tigers, among other animals. Floating safaris are the most common activity, but travelers can also visit the animal rehabilitation projects in the area.

Photo: joiseyshowaa

4. Great Barrier Reef (Australia)

Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, another Natural Wonder of the World, has divers polishing their goggles with excitement. Angling is also doable here in the largest reef system on the planet, but be wary of the no-fishing zone that covers one-third of the park.

Photo: Leonard Low

5. Bwindi Impenetrable (Uganda)

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park might not have the friendliest name, but get beyond that and you’ll find one of the most diverse ecosystems in Africa, home to animals like the mountain gorilla. Though the park is remote and permits are required, organized tours offer a chance to see the gorillas and other wildlife.

Photo: Chrissy Olson

6. Manuel Antonio (Costa Rica)

Even though Manuel Antonio National Park is the smallest in Costa Rica, it still receives more than 150,000 visitors every year, making it the second most visited in the country. The setting is unbeatable — visitors can take their pick between beaches and hiking trails.

Photo: Alpha Tango Bravo / Adam Taylor

7. Banff (Canada)

Established in 1885, Banff National Park is Canada’s oldest. Like many of the popular national parks in North America, development hasn’t been held back, but the tourist shops and RV parks can’t take away from the towering mountains. Kick back in a hot spring, paddle across Lake Louise, or hike one of the imposing peaks.

Photo: lazlo-photo

8. Chitwan (Nepal)

Nepal’s oldest national park, Chitwan was established in 1973 and is famous for the Bengal tigers and single-horned Indian rhinoceros that call it home. Elephant and walking safaris allow travelers to view the wildlife.

Photo: wonker

9. Yosemite (USA)

Yosemite National Park receives more than 3.5 million visitors every year, but most stay within the seven-square-mile Yosemite Valley. Once you’ve glimpsed the intimidating mass of El Capitan and Half Dome, escape the crowds and explore one of the park’s wilderness areas.

Photo: Alaskan Dude

10. Gobi Gurvansaikhan (Mongolia)

At over 27,000 square kilometers, Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park is the largest in Mongolia. It contains part of the Gobi Desert, a large area of steppe, and one of the country’s mountain ranges.

Photo: xfce

11. Triglav (Slovenia)

Slovenia’s Triglav National Park protects a variety of terrain, including the peaks and crags of the Julian Alps, lush alpine meadows, and the broad forested valleys of the Soča and Sava rivers. The Triglav itself — Slovenia’s tallest peak — stands near the center of the park.

Photo: 29cm

12. Mikumi (Tanzania)

What would a trip to Africa be without a safari? Tanzania’s Mikumi National Park is one of the country’s lesser-visited parks, meaning fewer crowds and more feasible protection of the animals and environment. Visit in the dry season and you’ll likely have it all to yourself.

Photo: paulshaffner

13. Torres del Paine (Chile)

Torres del Paine National Park, located on the southern tip of Argentina, is a prime spot for climbing and trekking. Though the weather can be severe, the views of the Cordillera del Paine, Fitzroy, and other mountains are unmatched. Travelers can explore the rivers, glaciers, and mountains of the park while staying in basic refugios.

Photo: magical-world

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Of course, these are only drops in the bucket. If old-growth forest is what you’re looking for, check out this post by Ellen Wilson.

Have a read here for some thought-provoking words by Fiona Murray, who wonders if “nature is for sale.”

Photo courtesy of Travel Montana

There’s a scene in A River Runs Through It where Brad Pitt’s character is up to his waist in the middle of the Blackfoot River and yells over the roar of the rapids:

“What are they biting on?”

This beautiful cinematic moment is a summer one. But fly fishing enthusiasts know a seasonal secret: the best time to fish the iconic waters of Big Sky country is spring. Come late March/early April, winter slides off the spine of the Bitterroots as light and warmth entice Skwala stoneflies and March brown drake mayflies out of their casings.

The serious, pleasurable work of catching fish from the end of an elegant cast is about to start.

Photo: Clydehurst

Why Montana?

Besides all the attention the Norman Maclean memoir and the Robert Redford film rendition garnered, Montana has some of the best fly fishing in the world for very practical reasons: its wild fish populations have been protected since 1963 with the passage of the nation’s first stream preservation legislation.

Rather than simply throwing in stockers from hatcheries to please the masses, biologists and natural resource professionals key to the habitat of native cold water fisheries. This helps protect water quality, stream flows, and healthy stream bank vegetation.

It also ensures wily wildness in the fish at the end of your line, fish that spook when your shadow darkens the shore. In a true angler’s opinion, it’s a much more exciting catch than hooking some lunker just out of the Fish and Game truck.

Photo: bugeaters

Montana has also been ahead of the curve in terms of catch and release policy, encouraging the use of barbless hooks for decades. Better to enjoy the thrill of the “get” rather than the taste of the flesh, putting the fish back in the stream and letting them get bigger, perhaps to be caught another day (or not).

Matching the Hatch

For beginners still sorting out their new Orvis purchases, “matching the hatch” is the process of mimicking the entomological cycle of native insects when selecting your artificial fly.

A hatch in full force is an electric event to witness. Nymphs, the insect equivalent of adolescents, morph from teenagers into winged adults instantaneously. The water surface bubbles and boils with feeding trout. Depending on what species is hatching, the ichthyology can get acrobatic.

The initial urge is to tie on your best rendition of a grown-up fly and get in on the action. But before you wet a line, take a deep breath and observe.

Photo: bugeaters

It may not be the flying forms the fish are after. The way the trout moves is an excellent indicator of what’s being eaten and where. Are fish jumping clear out of the water? Caddis emergers are probably making a quick run for the surface.

Small white fish mouths opening and closing below the water so you can see them? Classic surface feeding on small midges. Tails pointed upward towards you? Nymph feast on the riverbed!

Matching the hatch is more than noticing what’s flying around you. What’s underneath a rock may be what you want to tie on your line any given spring day.

Where to Go Before Memorial Day

When it comes to spectacular trout fisheries the “west is best,” meaning the left portion of Montana is where to focus your efforts in the coming months. This includes southern Montana as well.

Memorial Day marks the beginning of summer and the crowds that come with it, so get your license, dust off the tackle box, and head to these Montana waters before school lets out.

Early April: Right now (and I mean right now) the Skwala stoneflies open the surface action on the Bitterroot and Clark Fork Rivers in NW Montana and Rock Creek in SW Montana.

April through mid-May: March Brown and Grey Drake Mayflies are big versions of the genus and make their debut each spring on the Missouri, Bitterroot and Clark Fork Rivers. It’s the season’s first large mayfly hatch. Mercurial weather usually means fishing pressure is fairly light.

Mother’s Day Mayflies: The Yellowstone River rolls through southern Montana to the border with Wyoming and the United States’ first national park. About the time we celebrate our maternal connections, mayflies pop on the surface of one of North America’s premier trout fisheries.

Community Connection:

Matador loves Montana! Check out Travel Montana, a leading Matador partner and terrific source of support in terms of food, lodging, and those all important fly fishing guides and shops.

This year’s snowmelt is pumping up Montana’s rivers right now for both fishing and paddling. If you’re interested in kayaking or floating some of the classic Big Sky runs, as well as additional information and resources for visiting Montanas’ rivers, check out our guide to Boating the Big Sky.

Photo above: sebastian ceriani, Feature photo: Army.mil

Central Laos does not get many travelers, and the tourism office in the provincial capital of Tha Khaek has done a good job of designing treks that alleviate poverty in isolated villages without disrupting local culture.

Travelers get a chance to experience a beautiful part of rural Laos where the locals take pride in hosting foreign guests – a happy balance that does not always exist in more heavily touristed regions of Southeast Asia.

Basics

The 2-day trek costs about $65 per person for a group of at least 3 people — more for couples or single travelers. This is a fair price, and much of the money goes to local villagers who guide groups through the mountains and cook delicious meals.

Travelers start out in Tha Khaek, a medium-sized town on the Mekong River that’s about halfway between Vientiane and Pakse.

There’s a wonderful guesthouse in Tha Khaek called The Travel Lodge that has a range of inexpensive rooms, a good restaurant, and friendly, competent staff. If you’re on your own, this is also a good place to meet other travelers who can join you on the trek.

Destinations

Community Connection to Laos

Phu Hin Bun NPA

The trek explores the Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area, an isolated region of jagged peaks and clear, turquoise streams that looks like a classical Chinese landscape painting. The sheer mountainsides are refuges for several species of endangered primates, and tigers stalk the deepest parts of the jungle.

The villagers who live in the Phu Hin Bun NPA are largely self-sufficient, growing rice, fruit and vegetables, and raising water buffalo, pigs, chickens, and cows. While many treks in Laos visit ethnic minorities, the villagers here are mostly lowland Lao.

Eat, Walk, Swim

I LOVED the food on this trek. Fresh catfish grilled with garlic over a campfire on the banks of a stream was served alongside sticky rice, mountain vegetables, eggplant, and traditional pastes of herbs and chili.

For dinner we ate water buffalo laap, a Lao dish of minced meat with herbs and spices. Vegetarian options were limited but available.

The walks through the forest were broken up by frequent stops at spectacular swimming holes, including a sacred wellspring of turquoise water called Khoun Kong Leng.

Other highlights included a cave that links two valleys by cutting straight through a mountain, and an old temple where the prayer bell was made from the shell of a 500-pound bomb. This bombshell was a poignant reminder of the massive U.S. bombing campaign of rural Laos — a war that the White House kept secret from both Congress and the American people.

Cultural Respect

Visiting this part of Central Laos is a privilege, and travelers should take care to respect Lao customs. Understand that Lao people are extremely non-confrontational and place a premium on smooth social interactions.

Be gentle, kind, patient, and appreciative. Showing any sign of frustration or anger is extremely rude in Laos, so if you don’t like something it’s better just to smile and, if you must, gently inquire about alternatives. The head guide will speak reasonable English, but speak slowly and try to learn some Lao words. Everyone will be thrilled to hear you make the effort.

Photo: Mat Honan

Community Connection:

Other Matador articles on Laos include travel guides to Champasak and Muang Ngoi Neua, and an excellent article that gives the low-down on a unique two-week itinerary in Northern Laos.

You can also read the uncensored version of my San Francisco Chronicle feature on Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of Laos. The Matador version is called “Lusty Luang Prabang.”

One final resource is the excellent website Ecotourism Laos.

If you have other helpful links, questions, or advice for travelers, please leave a comment below. For those without a Matador profile, please take a moment to join the community. You won’t regret it!

Photo above: abkfenris, Feature photo: a song under the sugar sugar

Its rough bulk rises from the pine forest, northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail and highest point in Maine at 5,267 feet above sea level.

Mount Katahdin is the centerpiece of Baxter State Park. Governor Percival Baxter created this 150,000-acre tract in 1931 with the intention that it “forever be kept and remain in the Natural Wild State.” In doing so, he gave Katahdin the illustrious title of “mountain of the people of Maine.”

With over 200 miles of trail in the park, summit-bound climbers have options. Cathedral is a fun scramble, but Knife Edge, a razor-thin ridgeline route with thousand-foot drops on either side, earns top props. If you’re all outta juice for the return, the longer but gentler Saddle is a good pick.

Even in summer, Katahdin’s stiff winds and frequent rains can chill. Check current conditions before committing to a climb, pack cold-weather gear, and register at the ranger station before heading up.

Access to Baxter trailheads is limited daily; those serving Katahdin (Roaring Brook, Abol, and Katahdin Stream) are most popular. Maine residents can reserve parking spots in advance, but for everyone else it’s best to camp the night before or arrive wicked early in the morning.

Community Connection:

Got a thing for mountains? Hit up past posts in this series on Quandary Peak and the Zugsptize. For a sweet collection of Matador mountain climbing blogs, visit this page.

Photo above: nophun201, Feature photo: clspeace

Haines, Alaska

There’s no American wilderness more spectacular than that of “the last frontier,” and Haines is an ideal gateway. From the town there is relatively easy access to the Davidson Glacier, and super easy access to the paddling / rafting on the Chilkat River and hiking in the Takshanuk Mountains. In winter, the Chilkat Pass has limitless snowsports options.

Ithaca, NY

Western New York State is vast and overlooked. A great starting point to explore this region is the hilly town of Ithaca, overflowing with all the wining, dining, and partying that defines college culture.

“Ithaca is Gorges,” reads the popular t-shirt sported by Cornell students, referencing the area’s abundance of dramatic landscapes. Hiking, biking, fishing, and cross country skiing—yes, in addition to gorge jumping—are all on offer here by the Finger Lakes.

Photo: nancycallahan

Fayetteville, West Virginia

Fayetteville is nicknamed, “Gateway to the New River Gorge.” This tiny town is famous for its annual Bridge Day, where BASE jumpers from around the world jump off the bridge spanning the New River. Fayetteville has a tight community of paddlers who stoke on the nearly year-round access to the New and Gauley Rivers.

Whitefish, Montana

The Northern Rockies are home to true wilderness, and Whitefish is your #1 gateway. Whatever you’re fired up on—mountain biking, fishing, paddling, camping, skiing—the town has “out your backdoor” access to rivers, lakes, Whitefish Mountain Resort, and Glacier National Park.

Photo: .Bala

Asheville, North Carolina

Though the center of a metropolitan area of nearly 400,000, Asheville retains a small-town feel and represents a great launching point for western North Carolina’s wild spaces.

This college town provides a mix of culture (live music, arts festivals, and watering holes) and nature. The French Broad river flows right through the town, and you can also hop right on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is an hour’s drive to the west.

Marathon, Texas

The tiny dot of Marathon stands out on the big, empty map of west Texas. An old railroad and livestock town, it now features arts and crafts galleries, atmospheric diners, and eccentric lodging options.

Wild is a description that applies to the entire region, but the main draw lies an hour down Highway 385 in Big Bend National Park for desert exploration and climbing.

Photo: (Bill and Mavis) – B&M Photography

Orono, ME

A true college town, Orono packs a lot into a small package. Outdoors shops, pizza joints, and pub life collide in the tiny village center, surrounded by parks, forest, and the sprawling UMO campus.

You can head south for the heavily touristed but stunning coastal scenery of Acadia National Park, but for real wilderness, head towards Baxter State Park and Mount Katahdin.

Salida, Colorado

Sitting right between two great sections of the Arkansas River, Salida is a community of rec-heads. It’s a quick drive from Monarch, one of the state’s best under-the-radar ski areas, and when the snow melts it pumps up the Arkansas, giving paddling and rafting options for the whole family.

There are almost limitless camping and hiking options along the entire Arkansas from Salida to Buena Vista. If you’re in the area this June, make sure to check out the FIBArk boating festival.

Moab, Utah

Moab is unique in the world for the spectacular formations in its high desert terrain. Arches and Canyonlands National Parks are at its doorstep. A mountain biking mecca, two-wheelers come here from around the world for the of the area’s trails, ranging from beginner peddles to the super-intense Slickrock Trail.

Photo: ooOJasonOoo

Truckee, CA

For easy access to the year-round outdoors adventures of the Lake Tahoe region, minus the casino culture of nearby towns, Truckee’s where you want to be.

Whether you’re gearing up for some epic fly fishing or a trek through Eldorado National Forest, Truckee has everything you’ll need in a base of operations.

Port Angeles, Washington

The largest town on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula is also your gateway to one of the Pacific Northwest’s best, but least frequently visited wilderness areas: Olympic National Park. Port Angeles is also one of the few places in the world where you can snowboard and surf in the same day.

Port Angeles is an interesting city as well, with wineries, art galleries, and good camping (Elwha River) as well as hostel accommodations.

Photo: anneh632

Rapid City, South Dakota

Perhaps best known as the gateway to Mount Rushmore, Rapid City also sits at the doorstep of some incredible wild terrain. The Black Hills, home of the highest point east of the Rockies, rise just west of town, while the rugged backcountry and bizarre formations of Badlands National Park lie to the east.

Community Connection:

Good news! America’s wilderness is set to get a little wilder, as explained in the recent Pulse post “President Obama Signs Wilderness Bill.”

To learn more about any of the destinations featured above, why not ask a Matador expert?

Feature photo and photo above by Brian French.

As the last snowstorms leave their mark on the western Montana landscape, thoughts of rivers and boating begin to dominate my mind. Soon the enormous accumulation of snow nestled in the high country will find its way to area creeks and rivers, creating the opportunity for something truly remarkable – exploring the northern Rocky Mountains by boat.

I have been exploring the waters of western Montana for seven years now. I typically paddle well over 100 days in any given year and I try to commit to exploring at least a few new rivers or creeks every season.

I am a kayaker at heart, so I tend to prefer stretches that are a little more difficult in terms of whitewater. There is plenty of difficult water in Montana and plenty of opportunities for first descents. There are also plenty of opportunities for rafters, canoeists, touring kayakers, tubers, and pretty much all manner of folks who enjoy days on the water.

Whether you are looking for a full-on Class V nightmare with arduous portages or a crystal-clear, slow moving mountain stream with fishing that can only be described as “blue ribbon,” Montana has something for everyone.

Following are brief accounts of some of my favorite river trips in the state of Montana. I have included very basic logistics for planning trips on these stretches. For more detailed information on boating opportunities in Montana and the surrounding area, visit my blog, Montana eddy hop.

Have fun out there and remember: safety first!

Middle Fork of the Flathead River, Montana (Wilderness Section)

Photo by Brian French.

Originating in the heart of the Great Bear Wilderness, the Upper Middle Fork flows north through one of the most pristine canyons around and then forms the southern boundary of Glacier National Park.

Needless to say, the scenery on this river is unimaginable, and the water is perhaps the most crystalline blue water in the country. There is also great whitewater on this stretch, and difficulties vary dramatically with flows.

In order to run this stretch, you have to get yourself to Schaffer Meadows, either by plane, backpacking or horse packing. I highly recommend taking the flight from Kalispell with Red Eagle Aviation – although somewhat costly (about $350 per plane, enough for about two people plus gear), the folks who fly you in are super friendly and the flight is out of this world.

The flight to Middle Fork of the Flathead. Photo by Brian French.

You fly over the Flathead Valley, through a notch in the mountain crest, and then through the middle of the Great Bear Wilderness, looking south into the Bob Marshall Wilderness and north into Glacier.

When combined, these wilderness areas comprise the second largest roadless area in the lower 48 – take the flight, it’s worth every penny.

If you haven’t yet made this journey, you should really find a way to do so – the flight into Schaffer and float out on the Middle Fork is an ultra-classic Montana experience.

There’s no other feeling in the world like a multi-day float trip. Middle Fork of the Flathead. Photo by Brian French.

M.F. Flathead logistics: Class IV (IV- at low flows – below 6000 cfs at West Glacier, but solid IV at all others).

The water never really stops moving on this stretch, making it really fun and continuous. Rafters in your crew need to be pretty experienced as the upper part of the stretch can be very tight and technical.

The Spruce Park series contains the best and most difficult whitewater, and is towards the end of the trip. The put in is Schaffer Meadows, where the river is but a small mountain stream, and the standard takeout is Bear Creek access east of Essex on U.S. Highway 2.

You can also keep paddling past Bear Creek and take out at Essex in order to pass the Goat Lick – a popular gathering area for mountain goats.

Blackfoot River, Montana

Canoeing the Blackfoot. Photo by Brian French.

The Blackfoot River was the first stretch of water I really got to know in Montana. Made famous by Norman Maclean’s A River Runs Through It, this river is in Missoula’s back yard and is a wonderful place to spend a lazy day on the river.

I personally prefer to canoe the Blackfoot. It has a great, 18-mile Class II stretch of water that is perfectly suited for canoeing. Rafters, kayakers, and even tubers in the summer enjoy this stretch as well.

Just like the majority of other large rivers in Montana, there are numerous potential stretches to run on the Blackfoot, and the majority of the water is Class II or lower.

The fishing on the Blackfoot is outstanding, and I have encountered more wildlife on the Blackfoot than on any river anywhere. Bear, elk, mule and whitetail deer, moose, mountain lion, bald and golden eagle, numerous species of waterfowl, river otter, and countless other critters call the Blackfoot corridor home. Having this river so close is one of my favorite things about living in Missoula.

Blackfoot logistics: Class II (III- at high flows).

Multiple stretches are possible, but the standard put in is located at Roundup off Highway 200 northeast of Missoula. The take out is at Johnsrud Park, or you can easily take out at the Ledge just upstream to avoid the Johnsrud mayhem (take 200 towards Great Falls from Bonner east of Missoula, you can’t miss the Blackfoot corridor).

Roundup to Johnsrud is about 18 miles, or you can easily put in at the Whitaker Bridge to cut the distance in half and access most good whitewater. This river is well worth exploring.

Montana’s Northwest Corner Classic Duo: Kootenai River and Yaak River

Kootenai Falls. Photo by Brian French.

The northwest corner of Montana contains one of the most unique ecosystems and incredible watersheds in the state. The Yaak River corridor is a mini-rainforest that contains a remote canyon with one of the best stretches of whitewater around that rafters and kayakers both enjoy.

The Yaak flows into the Kootenai River, which is a beautiful large volume river that is slow-moving and mellow in all places but Kootenai Falls, an amazing canyon that contains arguably the rowdiest big water in the state of Montana.

With simple, roadside logistics and a wilderness feel, the Yaak River winds its way down a canyon filled with old-growth western cedars and lichen-covered rock formations. The water is continuous, fun Class III/IV with a couple solid Class IV rapids thrown in the mix.

This is a classic Montana adventure that is always worth the drive. You are almost guaranteed to have this stretch to yourself, and there is excellent camping at Yaak Falls – an impressive waterfall that is the put-in for the run.

Stomping at Kootenai Falls. Photo by Brian French.

The Kootenai Falls section of the Kootenai River is less than 30 minutes from the Yaak and is a stomping stretch of Class IV+ big-water that is basically a playboater’s pipedream.

Beginning with a very straightforward 18-foot waterfall, the Kootenai drops more than 100 vertical feet in the next mile, which is a gradient more common of low volume creeks than rivers with over 15,000 cubic feet per second of volume.

Superwave. Photo by Brian French.

This stretch has enormous waves and holes. Right after the falls is Superwave, probably the rowdiest wave in Montana that is truly huge and very intimidating. As is said in the Montana Surf guidebook, the Kootenai River is as close to the Zambezi as you’re going to get in Montana, and is an incredible boating experience.

Yaak River Logistics: Class IV-V.

To find the put-in, look for Yaak River Road west of the town of Troy on U.S. Highway 2. Follow this road up to Yaak Falls campground and put-in at the base of the Falls (you can run the Falls at lower flows, but you better stick your line or you’re slamming directly into a rock wall).

There is a parking area at the Highway 2 bridge over the Yaak, right above the confluence with the Kootenai.

Kootenai River Logistics: Class IV+ (big, pushy water).

Located on U.S. Highway 2 just east of the town of Troy. There is a nice rest area and trail to the river at Kootenai Falls (clearly marked), or paddlers may want to find the road that drops in about a half-mile to the east of the rest area that follows the tracks.

If you park here, it’s a much shorter walk to the river and you can put-in and take about three paddle strokes before getting launched over the Falls…good way to lively up yourself!

Once a paddler you can never look at water the same; you’re always scouting. Photo by Brian French.

Yellowstone River, Montana

The Yellowstone River originates in Yellowstone National Park and is America’s longest free-flowing river. The Yellowstone watershed contains runoff from the Beartooth Mountain Range, which contains Granite Peak, Montana’s highest point at over 12,000 feet.

The Yellowstone River flows through some of the most spectacular scenery in Big Sky country, and has some of the best fishing in the state as well.

From the Paradise Valley north of Gardiner to the confluence with the Missouri River, the