1. Coast redwoods don’t get as wide as their cousins the giant sequoia, but 26-foot diameters can hardly be considered second rate.
Photo: M. D. Vaden of Oregon

2. Where redwoods leave the sequoias behind is height. These are the tallest trees on the planet, with the highest so far measured reaching 379.1 feet. That’s over 70 feet taller than the Statue of Liberty, taking into account pedestal and foundation.
Photo: lunaport

3. And, stats aside, they’re just awesome to look at.
Photo: mason bryant

4. “Cathedral trees” sprout from a shared base, like these in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.
Photo: rachel_thecat

5. The canopy of a redwood grove, out of sight of both earth and sky, has been described as an “unexplored ecosystem.”
Photo: *~Dawn~*

6. The locations of the most serious trees and groves are kept secret, to protect both the redwoods and inexperienced hikers who might otherwise seek them out. This is one such tree, Screaming Titans, in the Grove of Titans, Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park.
Photo: H Dragon

7. A stitch job from the Grove of Titans.
Photo: H Dragon

8. Dwarfed by nature.
Photo: Shayan (USA)

9. A stout trunk from Jedediah Smith.
Photo: joannapoe

10. We treat our redwoods better today than they did in the 1930s. Still, if you ever wanted to drive through a tree, here ya go.
Photos: lostintheredwoods (left), nagobe (right)

11. A shot aptly titled, “give up, we have you surrounded.”
Photo: adrian207

12. There’s no doubt that trees bigger than today’s record holders were logged over the last century+. It’s not clear whether this was a coast redwood or giant sequoia, only that it was ginormous (note the team of horses on top).
Photo: David C. Foster

Community Connection

Get an image of redwood stealth camping in David Miller’s 11 tracks, 3 interludes, and how they define a road / surf trip from Seattle to San Francisco.

Photo: Lets Bike It

This past August, Trips introduced the World’s Best Stargazing Destinations. Included in the list was Scotland, which Matador contributor Bob Riel noted has some of the darkest skies in Europe.

Now, the International Dark-Sky Association has named Galloway Forest Park as one of only a handful of locations on Earth that deserve it’s “dark skies park” designation. Out of a 24-point darkness rating system (24 being on the level of a photographer’s dark room), Galloway got a 23.

The park also scored points for its accessible location. It may be far from any light-polluting population center, but that doesn’t mean it’s ultra-remote. According to The Guardian’s coverage of the story, Galloway is easily visited from northern England, southern Scotland, and by ferry from Northern Ireland.

For more details, such as how to plan your own Scottish stargazing trip, visit the website of Dark Sky Scotland.

Community Connection

While you’re in the land of the kilt, make sure to check out Scotland’s Carbonated Cult: Irn-Bru.

Photo: Cessna 206

Trips has already introduced you to America’s Most Dangerous Neighborhoods, rankings that were based on crime statistics.

Sometimes, though, people don’t need to go out of their way to imperil the lives of those around them. Mother Nature’s pretty good at that, too.

Popularmechanics.com takes up the issue with 8 of the Most Dangerous Places (To Live) on the Planet — human habitations facing very real threats from volcanoes, killer storms, desertification, and more.

Here’s what they got:

Photo: ctsnow

Mt. Merapi, Java

This active volcano’s constant smoke belching is a tipoff — it’s averaged 12 eruptions per century over the last 500 years. Still, 200,000 people live within an ominously short four miles of “Fire Mountain.”

And they’re not alone. The article claims as many as 120 million Javanese reside inside the danger zones of the island’s 22 active volcanoes.

Central Africa’s Lake Kivu is on the list as well due to the region’s seismic-volcanic instability that threatens to unleash trillions of cubic feet of poison gases trapped beneath the lakebed.

This phenomenon isn’t confined to Asia, either. For months in 2008-9, southern Chile’s Chaitén volcano blew its top. Residents of nearby Esquel, Argentina, where I volunteered earlier this year, tell of a months-long period of ash-mud raining from the sky and the necessity of HazMat suits whenever stepping outside.

Still, a handful of residents in the town of Chaitén have refused to leave.

Maldives

With an elevation peak of six feet above sea level, the 1,190 islands of the Maldives are demonstrating the effects of climate change today.

The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami rendered 10% of the nation’s land area uninhabitable, and since then local leaders have been hammering out plans to relocate the entire Maldivian population.

The Maldives / Photo: notsogoodphotography

The islands are still considered a beach-bum hot spot, but you’d better hurry if you want to catch a glimpse before they literally vanish.

Grand Cayman

Other potential casualties of global climate change are places already at high risk of violent storms.

That obviously includes the Cayman Islands’ Grand Cayman, otherwise known as the “hurricane capital of the world.”

For proof, you need look no further back than 2004, when Hurricane Ivan destroyed 70% of the buildings on the island and left 40,000 residents with zero power and clean water.

The Haitian city of Gonaïves also makes the list for its recent streak of hurricane bad luck, and Oklahoma’s I-44 “tornado corridor” gets a nod as well.

Verkhoyansk, Siberia

Long-time favorite exile spot for Russian czars and Soviet premiers alike, the Arctic town of Verkhoyansk is officially the world’s coldest, a distinction that carries its own terminology: the “Pole of Cold.”

The record-low temperature was mercuried over 100 years ago (long before meteorologists thought up the concept of wind chill): -90F/-68C.

Photo: Kiwi Mikex

Minqin County, China

Drought, water diversion, and a position directly between the encroaching Tengger and Badain Jaran Deserts likely spells annihilation for this section of China’s Gansu province.

The national government has been making efforts to relocate farmers to greener pastures, but the area’s population is swelling, now at 2+ million.

Have you been to any of these or other “days-are-numbered” destinations? Did you get any insight into why their inhabitants continue to live where they do? Share your stories in the comments.

Community Connection

Here are some more titles for your “most dangerous” fix:

Top 10 Most Dangerous Waves in the World

The World’s Most Dangerous Hike?

Food for Thought – the Most dangerous Cities in the Americas?

11 Most Dangerous Mountains in the World for Climbers

The Best, Strangest, and Most Dangerous Roads in the World

Photo: ricardo.martin

According to the Hotel Rosengarten website, this all-nude hotel in the Black Forest has postponed their opening indefinitely due to lack of investors. And though I haven’t been able to ascertain if the trial for nude flights booked with OssiUrlaub.de was successful or not, I can’t find anywhere to book a seat on one of their planes.

Despite the uncertainty of these two naked ventures, there is one thing for both Germans and naturists to look forward to: the opening next May of an 11-mile hiking trail through the Harz Mountains in northern Germany, catering to those who like to stomp around in the buff.

The nude hiking route will start in the village of Dankerode — at the campsite of Heinz Ludwig, the man responsible for organizing the route — and end at the Wippertal dam. Traditional clothed hikers are welcome on the trail, but there will be clear signage of what they may bump into.

Fair warning.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Gun shy? Read 10 Traveler’s Tips For Rocking a Nudist Beach.

Quidi Vidi Lake / Photo: Matthew McCarthy

Whale sightings

From May to October, the waters of Newfoundland and Labrador teem with the largest population of Humpback whales in the world as they migrate from the Caribbean, feeding on capelin and krill. The Humpback is a baleen whale, meaning they have a thick layer of bristles inside their mouth used to catch food.

Photo: Matthew McCarthy

While Minke, Pilot, Sperm, and even Blue whales are found around Newfoundland, the Humpbacks put on the best show.

Weighing 45 tons, they’re playful and unable to resist a good audience. The giant mammal will often emerge at the sound of an approaching boat, breaching with an impact like a meteor and slapping its tail on the surface.

Other times it’ll flip its tail up like an obscene gesture, indicating it’s diving deeper, and may stay hidden for a while.

You might also see mothers and calves swimming side by side or frolicking in the open sea.

Newfoundland is for the birds

The biggest population of seabirds in North America — 35 million — has chosen Newfoundland as its home. Here, storm-petrels, razorbills, gannets, and even puffins coexist happily.

To see them, head to Bay Bulls, a 25-minute drive from St. John’s on the Irish Loop. Boats launch from here to circle the Gull, Green, Great, and Pee Pee islands, which make up the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve.

260,000 pairs of puffins nest on these islands during the late spring and summer. In fact, 95% of North America’s puffins live around the coast of Newfoundland.

Photo by author

Other than puffins, there are thousands of black-legged kittiwakes and the common murre.

Envisioning it is difficult — listening to the reserve is better.

Approaching the islands by boat, your attention may be focused by the green hills, sharp cliffs, or even Humpback whales passing nearby.

But at some point, you’ll look up to realize the sky is a black mass of movement as the birds hover around the islands like colonies of bats. Once the captain cuts the engine, the pure impact of the noise can be overwhelming.

Just remember not to gaze upward with your mouth open. (Don’t say I didn’t warn you.)

All along the islands, thousands of puffins roost on the rocky shores, and the hills are punctured by holes known as puffin burrows. The birds swoop and dive and skim the top of the water.

Puffins are comical creatures; they’re better swimmers than fliers, with the ability to dive to 200 feet. They mate for life and their awkward, gawky bodies and colourful markings contrast sharply with the other marine birds in the reserve.

Perhaps this is why the puffin has become Newfoundland’s official bird: they’re simply quirky.

Photo by author

Icebergs, straight ahead

The arrival of puffins and Humpbacks also coincides with the appearance of icebergs. Iceberg Alley is the area stretching from the northernmost peninsula of Labrador down to the east coast of Newfoundland.

Here, bergs from Greenland’s 10,000-year-old icecap make their journey and are usually seen during the end of spring, particularly May and June. Their size and shapes vary: tabular, blocky, dome, drydock, wedge, and pinnacle are all words used to describe these masses of ice.

If you want to save some cash and skip the boat tour (see below), icebergs can often be spotted from St. John’s harbour or from the Signal Hill trail. Without leaving the trail, you can get fairly close to a berg when they float near the coast.

Last year, inside the St. John’s Narrows, the biggest iceberg of the season appeared eerily to be suspended in mid air. The horizon disappeared as the misty sea and sky blended into each other, the iceberg floating between.

How to see it all

Photo: Matthew McCarthy

Several boat tours operating during whale season are available from the St. John’s harbour, including Dee Jay Charters and Iceberg Quest.

Both tours offer the chance to see whales and icebergs, but Dee Jay Charters is a less crowded vessel which also journeys around Quidi Vidi Village and Cape Spear, the easternmost point in North America.

In Bay Bulls, boat tours such as Gatherall’s or O’Brien’s combine whale and bird watching. All tours come with good-humoured guides, fiddle music, and sometimes a dinner cruise. Dress warmly as even summers can be frigid in Newfoundland.

Sea kayaking is another option for the adventurous: tour groups like Stan Cook Sea Kayak Adventures get you up close to the Newfoundland coastline and the Humpbacks, if you’re not intimidated by a house-sized mammal belly flopping just ten feet from your paddle.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Matador member Ted Kern has a whale of a story about Swimming with Humpbacks, along with some nice pics.

If you find yourself in St. John’s wondering what to do at night, read Candice’s article at Nights, One Night on George Street — a Newfoundler’s Guide to Getting Smashed in St. John’s.

Everyone loves lakes. / Photo: magical-world

Lakes have a lot to offer: You get all the benefits of a refreshing body of water without having to worry about tides, currents, rapids, great whites, or that scummy coating of salt.

That must have been what the folks at the Brilliant Tips blog were thinking, anyway, when they published a snapshot of 10 Unique and Fascinating Lakes Around the World.

And Trips agrees. It’s time to bigup the world’s lakes, and here are some picks from the Brilliant Tips piece to get us started:

Photo: gramz

Volcanic views

Two from the list fall into this category.

First we have Guatemala’s Lago de Atitlán, with a trio of volcanoes flanking its southern shore. A series of Mayan villages also ring the water.

And then there’s Taal Lake, on the Philippine’s main island of Luzon. An active volcano rises up from an island in the middle of the lake, and within the volcano’s crater is yet another lake, which Wikipedia describes as “the world’s largest lake on an island in a lake on an island.”
Ya follow?

Most flamingos

Tourists aren’t the only ones who can appreciate lakes. There may be as many as one million flamingos in Kenya’s Lake Nakuru at any given time, attracted by the water’s abundant algae.

Photo: caffeinated Kit

The otherworldly

Spotted Lake, in Klikuk, British Columbia, gets its double-take texture from the soup of minerals found in its water and the peculiarities of local evaporation processes.

It’s visible from a pull-off on Highway 3, just a 10-minute drive north of the Washington border — truly an alien landscape.

World’s deepest

That would be Baikal, reaching depths of 1,642 meters (5,400 feet). It’s also the world’s oldest.

The crescent blade of a lake is located in southeastern Russia and is a good choice for breaking up your Trans-Siberian rail journey.

Most floaty

The Dead Sea, on the borders of Jordan, Israel, and the West Bank, is actually a giant salt lake. It also marks the point of lowest elevation on Earth’s surface (422 meters/1,385 feet below sea level).

And people like to float in it.

Photo: auntjojo

Others?

Lake Titicaca would be an obvious addition to the list.

It’s giant, super high (one of the highest navigable in the world), and home to a collection of artificial islands made from reeds that people live on.

Oregon’s Crater Lake is another standout, with its great depth and remarkably clear waters.

Any more? What’s the most memorable lake you’ve visited, and what makes it unique? Let us know in the comments.

Photo: Lee Sie

Community Connection

Like to ride? Matador has put out a Reminder to Australians: National Ride to Work Day is Coming Up!

If you’re looking for American ground to shred, make sure to read Boise For Mountain Bikers.

Winter in the Cairngorms / Photo: Murky1

For its size (on par with Oregon), the United Kingdom is one strikingly diverse nation. From mountains to beaches to rolling plains, its landscapes come in many varieties, one never more than a day’s journey from another.

Britain’s 14 national parks are tasked with showcasing this diversity, as well as protecting it. Recently, the Guardian asked travel industry leaders and outdoors enthusiasts to lay out what makes each of the 14 special. Here are some highlights:

Climbing Peak District / Photo: sharpneil

Brecon Beacons: Features an 8-day trek that takes in a historic church, Iron Age castle, and nature reserve, in addition to the high, angular terrain that dominates this region of Wales.

Peak District: Set square in the heart of England, Peak offers a range of climbing opportunities on its gritstone outcroppings — a type of rock found practically nowhere else on Earth.

Cairngorms: The system’s most extreme park by all counts (biggest, tallest, farthest north) draws mountain bikers looking to take on Scotland’s most epic trails.

Pembrokeshire Coast: Sea kayak is the vessel of choice for exploring this Welsh park and its 250 miles of rocky coast dotted with cliffs, sea caves, and marine wildlife.

Have you visited these or other UK parks? Share your experience in the comments.

Community Connection

For more national park goodness from around the world, check out these Matador posts:

Back to Nature: 13 Of The World’s Richest National Parks

Seven Best National Parks for Visiting Old Growth Forests

Guide to Kenya’s National Parks

All photos by author

Most travelers who make their way to the Australian state of Victoria (most commonly Melbourne) eventually find themselves heading to the Great Ocean Road. It’s a stretch of coastline in Victoria’s south that runs around 155 mi/250 km from Torquay to Warrnambool, and which includes the famous 12 Apostles.

What many visitors don’t bother to do though, is to hike any part of the 56 mi/91 km trail that hugs the coastline and gets you right down to the beaches. This is where Mother Nature is, away from the cars and buses, and into the bush with the kangaroos, wallabies, and echidnas.

Lots of options

You don’t have to hike the whole thing. You don’t even have to hike half of it. There are many points of entry and exit which facilitate short and long day hikes, and which many visitors explore while using a B&B or hotel for accommodation.

Shuttles can be hired to drop you off and pick you up at agreed-upon spots and times, and they’ll even do bag drop-off and food delivery (although, many purist hikers take major exception to this practice). We used GOR Shuttle to get taxied back to our van — I personally recommend them.

Tours are also available, if that’s your cup of tea.

For the overnight hikers

The Great Ocean Walk (GOW) starts at the Apollo Bay Visitor Information Centre and ends 90+ kms later at Glenample — within viewing distance of the 12 Apostles. For the hardest of the hardcore, this is a suggested 7-night, 8-day walk.

All the campsites on the walk are hike-in only. To minimise the environmental impact, Parks Victoria keeps the number of overnight hikers low, so each campsite has only eight spots for pitching a tent.

The campgrounds are very basic and have composting toilets, one or two untreated rainwater tanks, and a small 3-sided shelter. Open fires are not allowed and if the fire hazard is extreme, you may not even be allowed to cook with an open flame.

Pick and choose your itinerary

Overnight hikers can opt to do one-night/two-day hikes, two-night/three-day hikes, and so on. There are many starting and ending points but you must obtain a camping permit before spending the night.

For a detailed list of possible itineraries, read this very helpful PDF of FAQs.

A popular itinerary

Probably the most popular stretch of the walk is from Johanna Beach to the end at Glenample. This takes in roughly half of the trail — but from all accounts this is the better half. It is three nights, so is doable over a long weekend, which explains why it was booked solid when my wife and I tried to reserve sites over the Labour Day long weekend (early March in Australia).

Johanna Beach hike-in campsite

But you’re a traveler, and you don’t even know what a weekend is, right? Perfect. We backed it up for one night (starting Thursday instead of Friday) and found ourselves almost completely alone for the whole walk, sharing each campground with only one other couple.

Johanna Beach to Glenample

If you’re driving in, you have two options: park at Johanna Beach and arrange a shuttle at the end to drive you back to your car, or park at the end and get shuttled to Johanna Beach to begin. The latter is better in my opinion, but we were forced to do the former due to time constraints.

The Johanna Beach hike-in campground is around one kilometer from the carpark, although it is all uphill. This is good though as it puts you at the top of the cliff overlooking Joahanna Beach and the coastline beyond. Brilliant view to wake up to the next morning.

Note: the drive-in campground here is free, so if you want to save yourself one night’s costs, keep this in mind.

The remaining two campsites you would use are Ryan’s Den and Devil’s Kitchen, in that order. The campgrounds are spaced around 9 mi/15 km apart from each other, so it is an honest day’s hike, especially packing full gear (including your trash — carry out what you carry in).

It’s an undulating trail as you follow the topography of fingers of land that reach into the sea. The vegetation is colourful and varied, and you’ll even pass some blackberry bushes — make sure to pause and fill up on some berry goodness.

When sunny, the ocean to your left is a rich blue, reminiscent of the Mediterranean but with the wildness of the Oregon Coast.

Things to consider

*There are some stretches of beach walking (e.g. Milanesia and Wreck Beach) that are inaccessible at high tide. Check tide times before you start, otherwise you will have to take the less scenic high routes.

*You must reserve your campsite at least two weeks in advance, and you are only allowed to stay a single night in each one.

The 12 Apostles come into view

*It pays to reserve early. As we were the first to book, we were awarded with site #8 at each campsite. The sites are numbered 1-8 from the entrance, with 8 being the closest to the cliff’s edge, meaning the best views.

*When planning your itinerary, keep in mind that you are only permitted to walk in one direction: from Apollo Bay to Glenample. Booking campsites in the reverse direction is not allowed.

*As stated previously, each campground has rainwater tanks, but they are untreated. Make sure to pack some sort of filtration system or purification tablets. At the very minimum, if you don’t have these, boil the water for 10 minutes.

*I’m a big fan of telescopic hiking sticks as they help to distribute the weight of your pack to your arms too. They can also be extremely handy on tricky downhill sections. Highly recommended.

*The toilet houses are quite nice and one of them even has an ocean view. Toilet paper is provided, but it probably wouldn’t hurt to bring a bit extra, just in case.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

To read my personal account of the walk, check out 4 Nights on the Great Ocean Walk. If you’re just interested in pictures, pop over to my Flickr set.

Trips co-editor Hal Amen witnesses our changing world while Hiking the Chacaltaya Glacier. If you want to get philosophical about the ethics of hiking, read Nature for Sale: The Growing Trend of Wilderness Consumption.

Photo: Author

All seventeen (or nineteen, depending on classification system) species are native to the Southern Hemisphere. If you’ve always wanted to get a little closer to these wobbly creatures, here’s a quick guide on where to go to get down and dirty (watch your step — that’s guano).

Antarctica

On an Antarctic cruise with no landings, for which you’ll likely pay upwards of $4,000, the adelie, chinstrap, gentoo, king, rockhopper, and macaroni penguins you sight will be just that — sightings. Through binoculars, they’ll look like black dots against the icy background.

If you spring for landings with walks among the penguins, expect to drop up to 10 grand. Encounters will be plentiful, though you still won’t see the emperors of March of the Penguins fame. They’re high atop the ice shelf and far from the average Antarctic tourist’s view.

Photo: Author

Falkland Islands

Though not quite as far afield as Antarctica, the Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) aren’t really on the way to anywhere. That said, if you relish the idea of an up-close visit to a rockhopper colony, Saunders Island in the Falklands is a great place to go.

But the most photographed birds of the Falklands are the king penguins, a smaller version of the emperor, which have a breeding colony at Volunteer Point, a day excursion from Stanley.

Chile

Chile holds several distinct penguin populations, most of which belong to the Magellanic, or jackass (named for the braying sound they make) species.

They live in burrows and peer out — first with one eye, then the other — in areas such as Isla Magdalena, which lies a ferry ride away from the southern city of Punta Arenas, and near Seno Otway, just 70 km from the same city.

Humbolt penguins are found in the north, and their habitat also extends into Peru.

Photo: Author

Argentina

Most of Argentina’s penguin sightings take place near Punta Tombo, 180 km from the nature-rich town of Puerto Madryn. Close to 500,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins return here every year.

They’re rather tame, and may even peck at your feet as you crouch down to get a photo. It goes without saying that you shouldn’t touch or feed them.

Australia

After Uluru, the fairy penguin’s “parade” at nightfall on Phillip Island’s Summerland Beach is Australia’s most visited attraction.

Photo: Strange Ones

Annually, half a million tourists make the journey to witness the 16-inch, 2-pound penguins waddle their way up the beach every night. The island is an easy day trip from Melbourne.

New Zealand

New Zealand is home to a variety of penguin species — the blue, erect-crested, fiordland, rockhopper, snares, and yellow-eyed — but most of them breed on outer islands that are difficult to visit.

However, the Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony is just a 3-hour drive from Christchurch. This is New Zealand’s version of the penguin parade, and is best caught in the day’s dying light.

The shyest and rarest of the New Zealand species, the yellow-eyed penguin can be seen nearby during daylight hours on the Otago coastline, from public hides.

South Africa

The best (though not only) place to see penguins in Africa is in South Africa, within suburban Capetown.

Photo: darkroomillusions

There are African penguin colonies on 24 islands belonging to both South Africa and Namibia, but it’s much easier to stake them out on Capetown’s Boulders Beach.

Kayak trips from the Simon’s Town waterfront to Boulders Beach are also available.

Ecuador

It should come as no surprise that an unexpected ecological penguin niche exists in the Galapagos. Here, you can see the northernmost of all species, the warm-water Galapagos penguin.

A boat trip around/to the Galapagos will run you a few thousand dollars, plus airfare to Ecuador, but you might forget all that as you round Punta Albermarle on Isla Isabella, where the penguins can be seen cooling off with their wings outstretched and sharing rocks with the comically colored piqueros patas azules, or blue-footed boobies as they’re known in English.

Community Connection

For more fun down under, check out the 5 Best Southern Hemisphere Ski Resorts.

Photo: zachd1_618

Community Connection

For more photographic inspiration, click on the “wordless wanderlust” tag below.

Photo above: Vladimír Tóth, Feature photo: gluemoon

Unexpected Effects

As it turns out, there are times when armed conflict benefits the environment. Just look at Korea’s DMZ, where wildlife thrives in the 4km-wide strip of no man’s land that divides the peninsula.

Something similar occurred along the infamous Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified border that cut for thousands of kilometers through Central Europe, demarcating East and West. 1,400 of those kilometers were in Germany.

While armed guards held vigil, nature flourished. In 1989 the border came down, but the ecosystem that had grown up around it remained. It’s now home to 600 of the region’s threatened animal and plant species, from rare mosses to endangered birds and wild cats.

Redefining the Past

The grünes band — or green belt — as of yet isn’t monitored by a single entity. Rather, it’s being managed by groups in charge of the natural preservation of the different regions it passes through.

Photo: Shyald

Guided and solo trekking options are now attracting visitors. Of course, a nice dose of history is mixed in, with sections of fence, watchtowers, and even old East Germany barracks (now converted into tourist accommodations) still standing.

But just as the Iron Curtain extended far beyond the borders of Germany, so too does the vision of the project.

The organization European Green Belt hopes to turn the entire former border route — from the north of Finland to Greece — into one giant nature preserve.

Cyclists are also on the case, working section by section to create the 4,225-mile Iron Curtain Trail. Some segments are already open, as reported recently in The New York Times.

Preservation won’t be easy. Landowners and developers are understandably eager to take advantage of the empty land.

But great potential exists to transform the significance of the Iron Curtain from oppression and conflict to rejuvenation and new beginnings.

Community Connection

Have you been to the Iron Curtain green belt? If so, we’d love to hear about it in the comments.

For other great routes to explore, check out these Trips titles:

Photo Essay: The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail

How To Trek The Inca Trail

A-OK Again on the Kokoda Trail

Great Routes Through the Maya Trail

1. Iceland’s main road (the “1″) is around 800 miles long and circles the entire country. Since there is very little traffic on this island of 300,000 souls, not to mention a distinct lack of vegetation and wildlife, much of the time there’s just the country’s majestic nature — lava fields, glaciers, streams, lakes, and huge lichen-covered mountains — for company.

2. If you’re lucky you might even see the famous Northern Lights (aurora borealis). This photo was taken on a trip around the Snaefellsnes glacier, one of the most stunning areas of Iceland and just a 2-3 hour drive out of Reykjavik.

3. Another scene from Snaefellsnes, this time taken during sunset. Due to its low population, much of Iceland is quintessentially rural, though with a crazy volcanic twist that makes the landscapes highly distinctive and memorable. Ever seen sheep or horses grazing peacefully in a lunar-style lava field? You will here…

4. Speaking of horses, the Icelandic breed is world famous. They’re generally small — pony-sized in fact — and have special gaits. Fun fact: laws prevent animals from being imported to Iceland or returning to the country after they’ve been exported.

5. Another very special (and largely under-acknowledged) area in Iceland are the Westfjords. The oldest part of the island geologically, they’ve developed a unique community. Travel up here can be tough due to the deep, winding fjords. On the upside you’ll often feel like you’re driving through a fairy tale.

6. A great time to visit the Westfjords is in April or May when there’s still a good chance of snow on the mountains, but when the roads are generally clear (they can be closed off during winter). Snow-based activities in the area include ice fishing, snowmobiling, and spontaneous snowman making.

7. The Westfjords region has generally been in decline since WWII and the fall-off of the fishing industries. Yet the tourist infrastructure is excellent and though many residents literally abandoned their houses and moved to Reykjavik for work, many others have kept second homes here.

8. In harsher weather you can see and feel how bleak the Westfjords (and other remote parts of Iceland) can be. Yet even foreboding skies, whiplash winds, and driving rain can’t strip the country of its inherent and often unexpected beauty. The dominant forces of nature are felt everywhere.

9. On the other hand, Iceland is an absolute delight in summer. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not cold during spring, summer, or even (sometimes) autumn. In fact, temperatures are generally at European levels, give or take a few degrees. But don’t forget that the farther north you go, the less nighttime you’re going to get. Akureyri (pictured here from across the fjord), is the second largest city after Reykjavik with 10,000 inhabitants. It’s a popular place due to its exquisite setting, nearby whale-watching tours (in Husavik), and proximity to major natural attractions such as Lake Myvatn.

10. The coastline in Iceland’s north is fascinating with its strange mix of luminous green lichen, steep cliffs, and sky-wide vistas. This shot was taken near Husavik, one of the great whale-watching centers of the world. In the background is Lundey Island, home to a multitude of bird life including puffins, black guillemots, fulmars, and arctic terns.

11. Lake Myvatn, an hour or so from Akureyri, is one of Iceland’s most beautiful and mysterious areas. A mesmerizing array of lava lakes, bubbling geothermal areas, and volcanic craters, it’s unlikely you’ll forget a trip here in a hurry. It really is like paying a visit to the moon (well, presumably. And with a bit more water).

12. To the east of the Myvatn area lies the formidable Hverfjall. A kilometer in circumference, this looming black volcanic crater was formed around 2,500 years ago.

13. A wider view of Hverfjall takes in grazing horses, parts of Lake Myvatn, a snow-capped glacier, and the region’s famed geothermal resources, which power the Myvatn Nature Baths — or the northern Blue Lagoon as it’s known. This thoroughly modern spa area (see the building with the blue roof) has mineral-rich geothermal water, a cafeteria, three natural steam baths, and a 5000-sq.-meter geothermal bathing pool maintained at a constant temperature of 38-40ºC. Sploosh.

14. You can also see the bizarre formations created by that geothermal activity up close at Hverarönd, a collection of bubbling sulfuric mud, clay springs, and steaming rocks. Remember what I was saying about the lack of darkness in summer? This photo was taken at 11pm.

Community Connection

While in Iceland, take part in their version of a pub crawl. Find out How to Drink on the Reykjavik Runtur.

Photo above: makelessnoise, Feature photo: NASA, ESA, HEIC, and The Hubble Heritage Team (STScI/AURA)

Chile

Chile’s Atacama Desert mixes high altitude, dry air, and an absence of light pollution — a perfect recipe for some of the world’s best stargazing.

Photo: jovengandalf

The highest desert on Earth is not necessarily an easy place to get to, but if you go you’ll be rewarded with some of the clearest skies on the planet.

The Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca offers public tours.

Or, for a more personal experience, book a room at the Hotel Elqui Domos, where seven geodesic domes feature upstairs bedrooms with detachable roofs so guests can enjoy a stunning view of the heavens from the comfort of their bed.

Hawaii

Hawaii is also a highly regarded destination for viewing the stars. In the middle of the Pacific Ocean, it’s relatively untouched by light pollution. The best spot in the island chain is the volcano of Mauna Kea on the Big Island.

At an altitude of 9,000 feet, it’s home to the Keck Observatory and one of the world’s largest optical telescopes.

Photo: eye of einstein

It’s also the future site of the Thirty-Meter Telescope, which will be the most advanced telescope ever built when finished in 2018.

Hawaii beat out Chile for the honor of hosting this telescope after these two destinations were judged the best stargazing locations on the planet.

Visitors should begin at the Onizuka Visitors Center, which runs free nightly stargazing programs.

Southwestern United States

The Sonoran Desert in the American Southwest has particularly clear skies, and Kitt Peak National Observatory near Tucson houses the world’s largest collection of optical telescopes and offers nightly viewing opportunities.

Other sites in the region that are open to the public include Griffith Observatory in Los Angeles; Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, Arizona; and McDonald Observatory near El Paso, Texas. Or, in New Mexico, you can visit New Mexico Skies, rent a cabin in the Sacramento Mountains, and discover the stars from their mini-observatories.

Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah was the first place to be named an International Dark Sky Park and is considered to have some of the world’s best night views. Rangers lead summertime astronomy workshops.

Photo: photofish12

DIY stargazing is another way to go.

Bryce Canyon in Utah; the Grand Canyon in Arizona; Chaco Culture in New Mexico; and Joshua Tree, Yosemite, and Death Valley in California are all Southwest parks that put on spectacular nighttime shows.

Southern Africa

Many destinations in Africa are excellent for stargazing due to their low population density, low levels of light pollution, and frequent cloudless nights.

South Africa and Namibia have particularly good opportunities for public viewing. The South African Astronomical Observatory offers tours at facilities in Sutherland and Cape Town, while Kruger National Park has astronomy programs for safari tourists.

For a unique lodging experience in Namibia, the Sossusvlei Desert Lodge is not only near the world’s largest sand dunes, but also has its own observatory and astronomers.

Australia and New Zealand

Like Chile, South Africa, and Namibia, Australia’s and New Zealand’s positions in the Southern Hemisphere mean you’ll be able to see stars that aren’t visible in the North, most notably the constellation of the Southern Cross.

An easily accessible destination in Australia is the Sydney Observatory, located near Sydney Harbor.

If you want to escape the city, the Astronomical Society of New South Wales hosts the annual South Pacific Star Party at a 100-acre site three hours from Sydney.

Photo: a4gpa

Or, for a truly spectacular setting in the center of Australia, make your way to Uluru (Ayers Rock) for the Sounds of Silence experience, where you’ll dine in the open air and then listen to an astronomer give you a tour of the southern sky.

New Zealand has several good observatories, including the Auckland Stardome with its 360-degree dome theater. On the South Island, in Lake Tekapo township, the Mount John Observatory offers clear skies and a majestic location in the Southern Alps.

Scotland

If you’re looking for a stargazing destination in Europe, Scotland has some of the darkest skies on the continent. The northern lights are even visible occasionally, a phenomenon that usually requires a trip closer to the Arctic Circle.

An organization called Dark Sky Scotland now promotes dark sky parks in the Scottish Highlands. For organized viewing, you can check out the Royal Observatory in Edinburgh.

Community Connection

Read about Matador managing editor Julie Schwietert’s night out in Shakespeare Under the Stars: A Night at the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival.

For unforgettable Earth-bound vistas, check out Photo Essay: The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth.

Photographer: freewine

Community Connection

Serenity is nice. But if you’re looking for something more adventurous, you probably want to read Take Me to the River: 8 Simple Steps for Getting into White Water Paddling.

Or for something more progressive, you may be interested in Stand-Up Paddling.

1. Angel Falls, Venezuela
Salto Del Ángel, better known to English speakers as Angel Falls, is considered the highest in the world at 979 meters.
Photographer: Inti

2. Seljalandsfoss, Iceland
This picturesque 60m plunge has appeared on the likes of The Amazing Race. Hikers get a kick out of the trail that leads behind the falls.
Photographer: Daníel Örn

3. Victoria Falls, Zambia/Zimbabwe
Victoria forms the “largest sheet of falling water in the world.” Its extent is so great that it helps to have a view from the air (below).
Photographer: Sotti

Photographer: Jean-Louis Vandevivère

4. Bridalveil Fall, USA
One of the most photogenic falls in California’s Yosemite National Park, and that’s saying a lot.
Photographer: CLightPictures

5. Kaieteur Falls, Guyana
Though neither the tallest nor the widest, Kaieteur’s combination of height and volume makes it one of the world’s most powerful falls.
Photographer: madmack66

6. Takakkaw Falls, Canada
Takakkaw is one of the star attractions of British Columbia’s Yoho National Park.
Photographer: Michael Rogers

7. Tad Fane, Laos
Twin chutes of water plummet into a jungle gorge just beyond the balconies of the Tad Fane resort.
Photographer: krisprachant

8. Niagara Falls, USA/Canada
Niagara needs no introduction, but just like Victoria, its true scope can only be appreciated from the air (below).
Photographer: outofthebox27

Photographer: gilesclement

9. Barron Falls, Australia
Only a trickle for much of the year, the Barron Falls roar after a hearty rainy-season downpour.
Photographer: Shek Graham

10. Queulat Glacier waterfall, Chile
Sensitive environmentalists, avert your eyes. This one might as well be taken straight from a climate change poster.
Photographer: betoscopio

11. Iguazu Falls, Argentina/Brazil
There are 275 separate falls along this 2.7km stretch of the Iguazu River. Yeah, they’re awesome. Check out the panorama (below).
Photographer: Luca Galuzzi

Photographer: Martin St-Amant

12. Yinlianzhuitan waterfall, China
Though not as large as the nearby Huangguoshu waterfall, Yinlianzhuitan makes the list for one reason: this sweet pic.
Photographer: WaitinZ

Community Connection

Matador Trips is amassing a collection of some of the most stunning photo essays on the web. Make sure not to miss:

The Most Alien Landscapes on Earth

The Stunning Colors of Glacier National Park

The Spirit of Burma

Papua New Guinea

An Amazon Adventure

Photo: chris runoff

Culinary America

A land of immigrants, Americans learned long ago that the best way to stay in touch with the mother culture — long after the language fell away — was through cooking. This nostalgia and passion are as much a part of traditional recipes as their ingredients.

In addition to using food to remember where we came from, we also use it to express where we want to go. American cuisine is one of diverse experimentation. Here are some favorites:

1. The San Francisco Bay Area is America’s culinary king. From Half Moon Bay to San Francisco and Berkeley to Sonoma and Napa and Marin Counties, this region leads in food and wine that’s locally and organically grown and artistically prepared.

Photo: hillary h

2. For the best traditional cuisine mixed with riotous innovation, New Orleans is the place. This southern city flawlessly combines tradition with experimentation, and its people continue to define the joy of cooking, eating, and sharing a table.

3. Chicago, with its incredibly diverse population — from Eastern and Central Europe, to the circum-Mediterranean, to Latin America, to East Asia — is a foodie heaven.

Here’s a city where you can find the best of the most unknown cuisines, such as a Serbian restaurant serving up traditional dishes that would pass muster back home.

4. Philadelphia is as rich in American food and drink as it is in American history, especially considering its rise in recent years as a major restaurant town.

Freshly feeding this trend is the hinterland of farms, forests, and fields in both Pennsylvania and New Jersey, the presence of European-styled daily markets like the Reading Terminal and Italian Markets, and the growth of urban community gardens.

Philadelphia’s City Tavern served our founding fathers, and it can do the same for you. It’s still as exciting, broad, and spicy as it was in the 18th century, when far-flung ingredients were constantly coming through the city’s active international port on the Delaware River.

Sacred America

In addition to human-built spiritual facilities, some of America’s most sacred sites are found in its varied and vast natural spaces. A handy list of such places is available at Places of Peace and Power. Standouts include:

Photo: R. Doyle Bowman

1. Canyon de Chelly in northeastern Arizona is among the longest continuously inhabited places in North America, to this day managed by the Navajo Nation in collaboration with the National Park Service.

Canyon de Chelly is not only a national monument but also home to a Navajo community.

2. In 1872, Lakota shaman Black Elk identified the center of the universe in the Black Hills of the Dakotas — Okawita Paha, otherwise known as Harney Peak. His Great Vision preserved for us the awareness that this place as an immensely important sacred spot in North America.

While much has changed in the region since then, Harney Peak and the Black Hills continue to possess the power to arrest us, to take us out of our ordinary selves, and to enable us to see our interconnectedness to each other and all life.

3. The Vedanta Temple in Montecito, California, occupies a strong, authentic sacred landscape in the mountains east of Santa Barbara. Throughout the years, the temple has maintained its peaceful atmosphere of meditation and spiritual practice, welcoming all.

Photo: SF Brit

4. Grace Cathedral in San Francisco has an open, spiritually oriented attitude, plus the appeal of an indoor-outdoor labyrinth based on that of France’s Chartres Cathedral.

It’s a terrific setting for a walking meditation, and visitors are respectful of each others’ desire for inner work and silence. More information is available on their website.

Romantic America

Again, from can’t-look-away natural scenery to human-made getaways, America offers countless opportunities for hand-in-hand exploration.

1. Strolling Philadelphia’s expansive colonial neighborhood is like walking in old America and old Europe simultaneously. Filled with over three centuries of history — a marvel of antiquity for most American cities — Old City Philadelphia is full of gardens, walking paths, cobbled streets, old cemeteries, and great cafes and taverns.

2. Driving California’s Highway 1 from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz, you’ll pass through one of North America’s most romantic natural landscapes.

This unique coastal expanse possesses wild vistas and nature parks, intimate towns and beach coves, all along a route where adventure is just around the bend.

3. The French Quarter of New Orleans will always hang onto that worn, Old World romance no matter what comes its way.

Photo: specialkrb

From its colorful ambiance, to its great food and ale, to a sense of community connectedness, this is a great place to go with the one you love, or perhaps to find him or her during an authentic blues set in one of many small, local joints.

4. Another excellent romantic mini-roadtrip runs between the Hudson River Valley of New York and the Berkshires of western Massachusetts. The pace of life here is utterly different than that in the cities just hours away.

From the road you’ll get vistas of mountains, forests, and rivers, while there are plenty of opportunities to stop and savor good local food, go for a romantic hike, and enjoy theater and live music in old-fashioned, small-scale venues.

Community Connection

If you like the Eat, Pray, Love concept, you’ll want to check out Beebe’s guides to Morocco, Portugal, and Spain.

Have your own favorite spot for a culinary, spiritual, or romantic getaway in the U.S.? Share it with Trips readers in the comments.

Photo: Phineas H

The Hume Highway — the inland route between Melbourne and Sydney — is not very exciting. And that’s putting it mildly.

If you’re going to make the trip between these two great Australian cities, take your time and drive the more scenic Sapphire Coast. You won’t be disappointed.

Photo: teknorat

First, find yourself a killer rental deal and escape the city

You can find rentals for as low as $9.99/day with unlimited mileage at RedSpotRentals.

Melbourne’s sprawl takes about an hour to clear. Say goodbye to the crowded suburbs and find yourself amidst grazing land and livestock that outnumber people as you enter the Gippsland plains.

If it’s warm enough, crack open the windows and let the eucalyptus-laden breeze float in.

Lakes’ Entrance

About four hours out of Melbourne, you’ll come upon Lakes’ Entrance. Miles of estuary waterways twist their way to the horizon in either direction, and the whole lot rushes together violently with the tides through a channel you could throw a football across.

The waters churn with the clashing currents, the open ocean beyond full of whitecaps that throw up a grey haze of sea spray. In the distance, if you look hard enough, oil rig platforms can be made out hovering above the hazy ocean like alien spaceships.

Photo: Phillie Casablanca

During the winter months — that’s North American summer, remember — the town is deserted, and you should have no problem finding a cheap room for the night at a clean hostel. There is plenty of boating and fishing to be done here.

Lamb-lover alert: head to the Six Sisters and a Pigeon Café on the town’s main road for a tasty lamburger.

Twofold Bay and Eden

From Lakes’ Entrance, it’s only a few hours before you come over a ridge and are greeted with a panoramic view: Twofold Bay and the hills of Eden. The beer coasters at the local pub proclaim “a drinking town with a fishing problem” and the place smells salty and slightly sour.

Pull into the Killer Whale Museum to search for the skeleton of Old Tom, the orca whose pod hunted with the locals when Eden was a whaling town only two generations ago. (For more on this stranger-than-fiction story, read The Killers of Eden.)

At the wharf, watch the dolphins and seals dive lazily through schools of fish.

On Friday nights the Great Southern Inn holds a meat raffle. Buy tickets to support the local rugby team and to win yourself shrink-wrapped trays full of different meats and cuts from the local butcher to fill your barbecue while on the road.

Eden is more a working town than a tourist destination, with controversial woodchipping taking over from whaling as the area’s primary industry. There are plenty of B&Bs around, and judging by their posted rates, there is clearly a healthy tourism trade here.

Photo: misha.pics.word.

Bermagui and around

Leaving Eden, you’ll only be on the road for a few hours before reaching Bermagui. This town is even smaller. It’s in this region that I could happily spend my days hanging around the forgotten coastal villages with their pungent aromas of ocean and seafood.

The landscape is mixed: craggy cliff faces rise from a frothy ocean on one side and still, flat lakes lie in the shelter of the coastal dunes on the other.

Make sure you catch the legendary sunset with Mount Dromedary providing a dramatic backdrop. Boats stream back into port through the breakwater in the fading light. Keep your eyes open for the resident fairy penguins!

Back in the day, the Bermagui Hotel was a ramshackle pub with plenty of colorful characters swapping fishing tales at the bar. Nowadays, the rooms are painted in peach tones with matching towels and linens; you can even book a room with a spa bath.

There’s also a sushi joint here, right next to the hippie River Rock Café which gives surf lessons and serves up organic coffee and live music.

You could spend weeks exploring these parts — Tathra, Narooma, Lilli Pilli, Bateman’s Bay — take your pick.

Arrival in Sydney

Traffic in Sydney is no fun, even on a Sunday evening. The Harbour Bridge and Opera House are ghostly and spectacular by night, but the roadways, especially in the CBD (Central Business District), can be very confusing.

If you are staying in the city, plan to arrive early enough in the afternoon to give yourself time to settle in and discover a cozy little bistro, pub, or café overlooking the harbour to watch the sun go down.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

You’re gonna need some tunes to bop your head and sing badly to on your trip. Check out the Greatest Roadtrip Soundtrack Ever for some ideas.

This piece on Melbourne has some solid reasons for you to linger a while there, and Australia by the Numbers will give you a different perspective of the land down under.

Hiking in the Diamond Head area of Garibaldi Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada
Photographer: footloosiety

Community Connection

If you’re looking to be inspired by fellow travelers, Matador’s the place for you. Sign up today.

Photo: Larsz / Feature photo: Mike Willis

1. Spearfish Canyon National Scenic Byway

This is a fantastic drive in any season, where you’ll find granite walls specked with Black Hills spruce and aspen, tumbling waterfalls, and rolling creeks cascading over rocky beds.

The hike to Roughlock Falls is the perfect way to connect with nature. In the fall months the reds, oranges, and yellows of the trees, combined with the deep canyon walls and surging falls, provide plenty of visual and aural stimulation.

Photo: allygirl520

2. Deadwood

This restored gold-mining town is a national historic landmark, with architecture dating from the late nineteenth century. Gambling is legal here, so if you enjoy the slots, or just like bantering with witty bartenders, head to one of the numerous casinos.

If history is what you’re after, Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane are buried at the Mount Moriah Cemetery. The Adam’s House Museum provides an educational perspective on Deadwood and the Black Hills.

There are also some great events in town. My favorite, the Deadwood Jam in mid-September, is an eclectic music festival showcasing blues, country, rock ‘n’ roll, and reggae. You can line up lawn chairs at the outdoor venue, crack open some drinks, and enjoy the local company.

3. Mount Rushmore

Visiting Mount Rushmore renews my patriotic spirit no matter how many times I’ve seen it. National pride swells as your eyes wander over the 60ft carvings by Gutzon Borglum and his 400 helpers. The nightly lighting ceremony, accompanied by patriotic music, is a reminder to be thankful for the privileges we enjoy as Americans.

4. Keystone

Two miles from Mount Rushmore, Keystone is an entertaining stop. Dip into the shops and restaurants, fly down the alpine slide, or watch a wood carver transform a tree stump into a proud bald eagle or bulky bison. You can also ride a tram, pan for gold, relax on the verandas, and visit the Presidential Wax Museum.

Big Time Pizza in the Roosevelt Inn has the best pies in the region. Ask for my favorite, the Super Supreme.

5. Hill City

This hospitable town has a quaint Main Street lined with art galleries and shops full of gifts and antiques. Hill City is also home to the 1880 steam train, which winds it’s way from here to Keystone.

Near Rapid City — the gateway to the Black Hills — visit the Circle B Ranch for an authentic western experience. Eat a proper cowboy meal, bob your head to twangy country music, watch a gun fight, and go horseback riding. The Flying T Chuckwagon Supper & Show or the Fort Hays Chuckwagon Supper & Show can also satisfy the little cowboy in you.

6. Crazy Horse Memorial

My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes, also.

- Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear to Korczak Ziolkowski

Photo: Jennifer L. Sovanski

These words set in motion the building of the Crazy Horse Memorial, 17 miles from Mount Rushmore. The head alone is planned to exceed the size of the presidents’ heads by over 20 feet.

Although Mr. Ziolkowski was twice offered $10 million from the U.S. government to fund the project, he declined it on the principle that his broader educational vision would be compromised by federal involvement.

Mr. Ziolkowski died in 1982 but his wife, Ruth, and most of their 10 children have continued the work.

7. Harney Peak

Hiking to the top of Harney Peak — the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains at 7,244 feet — is well worth the sweat. On my first attempt I was unable to make it to the top, despite encouragement from hikers coming down.

However, I vowed to make it the next time — and I did. On a clear day, you have panoramic views of South Dakota, Wyoming, Nebraska, North Dakota, and Montana from the fire lookout tower.

On the way down, this time it was I who encouraged others to keep going.

8. Needles Highway

Located in Custer State Park, the Needles Highway is a road worth traveling for views of the 20-40ft granite spires reaching to the sky, backdropped by thick forest. Drive carefully — the single-lane tunnel is a little harrowing.

9. Caves

There are eight caves to tour in the Black Hills, two being part of national parks and six owned privately. Inside one of the largest cave systems in the world, you can expect to see unique calcite crystals, arranged in a honeycomb-like pattern, embedded in the limestone walls.

As the temperatures in the caves stay consistently in the 50s F, they’re great for cooling off when it’s too hot up top.

Photo: IndigoValley

10. Custer State Park

At 71,000 acres, Custer State Park is a great place for wildlife viewing. You can spot hordes of buffalo grazing on the green grass from Wildlife Loop Road.

Every time I see them, I’m amazed by their size and presence and am reminded of their connection to the Lakota Nation, who relied on buffalo for survival.

I giggle at the wild burros in the park, who stick their snouts into car windows looking for food. Mountain goats, antelope, bighorn sheep, deer, elk, and wild turkeys are other animals you might be able to glimpse during a visit.

Looking for some relaxation? The lakes here are the perfect prescription for stress. Swim or fish, or simply wade around for some therapeutic calming.

More information

Make sure you visit the South Dakota Tourism website for more on the area’s history, events, and things to do.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re looking for more great itineraries and ideas in the States, check out Gateway to Pristine America: 12 Towns on the Edge of Spectacular Wilderness and Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides.

Why not save some money while you’re at it? Have a read of 8 Ways to Save Money on a U.S. Cross-Country Road Trip.

Photo: paleontour

If you’re the kind of traveler that likes to defy danger and the wishes of the local indigenous people, then you’d better get your butt Down Under real soon. If the National Parks and the Anangu people of the Western Desert have their way, it will be illegal to climb this famous Australian landmark.

Photo: rplzzz

Less is still too much

As it is, there are heaps less people making the climb than before. In 1990, three-quarters of visitors reached the 340 meter peak, whereas today that ratio has shrunk to just one-third.

But that still translates to 250 people per day. 250 more than the Parks and the locals would like to see up there.

Besides the cultural sensitivity issues, it’s a dangerous climb. To further deter tourists from attempting it, details of more than 30 deaths await you at the base.

There are also sanitary reasons why you shouldn’t do it. A lack of toilets on the sacred rock mean that some hikers are damaging the local environment as their waste runs down into the waterholes around the rock.

For and against

Not only is the Federal Opposition party opposed, but Prime Minister Kevin Rudd rejects the proposal:

Obviously it’s a question of public safety and managing important parts of our natural landscape…I think it would be very sad if we got to a stage though where Australians and frankly our guests from abroad weren’t able to enjoy that experience…to climb it.

However, there is no shortage of folks who are fully behind the idea of an outright ban, including many tourism operators. Ultimately, the decision may rest with Environment Minister Peter Garrett, the former frontman of politically charged Midnight Oil.

Mr. Garrett has never himself climbed Uluru, instead saying he’s respected the sign at the bottom placed there by the traditional owners, which states “Please don’t climb Uluru.” Although his preference is clear, he wants to make sure the correct decision is made:

There should be a debate amongst the stakeholders: the tourism industry, indigenous people, governments and others.

Stay tuned!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Have you hiked Uluru? Would you do it despite the request from the local aboriginals to refrain?

Share your thoughts below!

Photo: aaronbflickr

Most visitors to northern Chile make a beeline to the small inland town of San Pedro de Atacama and never look back. Yet, the best combination of the region’s two most rewarding natural resources — the desert and the coast — is found a few hundred miles to the southwest.

Natural diversity: from desert, to beaches, to penguins

Pan de Azucar National Park occupies over 43,000 hectares, straddling the border of Chile’s Regions II and III. There’s a thin strip of coastal paradise, flanked by miles and miles of desert stretching away from the shore.

Photo: ^riza^

Beach camping is what’s on tap. Wake up to an ocean sunrise, join the seagulls and sandpipers for a quick dip in the sea, and then relax on the sand.

Once you’ve had your fill of beach soccer, surfing, and sunbathing, take a hike to the top of the Mirador for an excellent view of the stark Atacama landscape. Ask the park rangers for more information on the Mirador walk, along with other hiking opportunities.

And don’t forget the penguins! Boats depart from Caleta for tours around Isla Pan de Azucar. There you’ll see sealions laze and bark and Humboldt penguins chatter amongst themselves on the shore.

How to get there

The park lies 800 km north of Santiago and just 30 km from Chañaral. Renting a car, which can be done in Antofagasta or Copiapó, is the most convenient way to reach Pan de Azucar. Hitchhiking is also possible, helped by the fact that Chile is probably South America’s safest country.

A third option is to take a bus to Chañaral, conveniently located on the Pan-American Highway, and then hop a minibus or collectivo to the park.

Where to stay

The four campgrounds (Caleta Pan de Azucar, Piqueros, Soldado, and Piqueros Norte) sit on long strips of white-sand beach, ten minutes from the park entrance.

Photo: ~chicchun~

Soldado and Piqueros Norte are group areas — Soldado mainly sees families, while Piqueros Norte is where young singles flock.

These two campgrounds are the best; the sites are located farther apart from each other for more privacy, and they offer the best views of the ocean. They come with a canopy, campfire ring, and table and chairs. Nearby are bathrooms and cold-water showers, plus sinks for washing dishes.

Also available are a few “fully equipped” beach cabanas, each sleeping six.

Caleta and Piqueros are less expensive but sites are cramped — your view may very well consist of the back of another tent.

Sign up for a campsite at the administration station, which is open from 8:30-12:30am and 2-6pm.

Costs

Photo: law_keven

Beach cabanas: $20,000-$40,000 CLP per night, depending on the season
Campsite at Piqueros Norte or Soldado: $3500 CLP per person, per night
Campsite at Caleta or Piqueros: $2000 CLP per person, per night
Park entrance fee: $3500 CLP per person ($1500 CLP for children)
Boatride to Isla Pan de Azucar: $5000 CLP per person

Special tip: The budget-conscious can try talking to the rangers about a “servicio.” Depending on their mood, you might be able to convince them to let you pick up litter on the beach or empty the garbage bins in the bathrooms in exchange for a night’s stay.

Additional tips

* Though Caleta has a small store, its prices are exorbitant and its selection meager. Buy food and supplies before arriving. There are also vendors who come through in the afternoon with empanadas and sweets, but you shouldn’t rely on them either.

* Pack a flashlight, matches, a knife, plastic bags for trash, sunblock, and sunglasses. These are must-haves for camping in Pan de Azucar.

* A visit in spring (October, November, and December) will give you a look at the blossoming of exotic desert plants and families of guanacos (related to llamas).

* Despite the ocean’s tempering influence, this is still the desert — it gets cold at night, so bring a good jacket and a hat to stay warm.

*If you love the night sky, you’ll love Pan de Azucar. Pack your star map for some serious star gazing.

Community Connection

Matador is the place to read up on Chile! Relevant titles include:

Destinations

Community Connection to Chile

Chile’s Best Coast Towns (which, incidentally, happens to feature Pan de Azucar)

8 Natural Wonders of Chile

10 Reasons to Base Your Study Abroad Experience in Chile

7 Reasons to Learn Spanish in Chile

What People Are Listening to in Chile

Trekking Torres Del Paines, Patagonia, Chile

1. Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
The largest salt flat in the world reflects the sky during the wet season (above). In the dry winter months, it becomes a mosaic of salt tiles (below).
Photographer: Luca Galuzzi

Photographer: Sergio Pessolano

2. Antarctica
Icebergs drift in dark Antarctic waters.
Photographer: winkyintheuk

3. The Richat Structure, near Ouadane, Mauritania
A circular feature, 50 km across, in the middle of the otherwise featureless Mauritanian Sahara. Picture courtesy of NASA.
Photographer: trodel_wiki

4. Alvord Playa, southeastern Oregon, USA
You might not expect to find a desert in the Pacific Northwest, but this dry lake bed averages only 180 mm of rain a year.
Photographer: rasone

5. Cappadocia, Turkey
Fairy chimneys dominate the landscape between Cavusin and Zelve.
Photographer: Timothy Neesam

6. Socotra Island, Yemen
Socotra’s isolation in the Indian Ocean has given rise to plant life you won’t see anywhere else. Behold the dragon’s blood tree.
Photographer: Sotti

7. Black Rock Desert, Nevada, USA
Best known as the staging grounds for Burning Man, the Black Rock Desert is also home to alien features such as the Fly Geyser.
Photographer: Stephen Oachs

8. Black and White Deserts, Egypt
Egypt’s deserts come in many colors, including Black (above) and White (below).
Photographer: Gekko82

Photographer: tronics

9. Kauai, Hawaii
Seaside lava ledges make for otherworldly experiences on this often-overlooked Hawaiian island.
Photographer: PatrickSmithPhotography

10. Namib Desert, Namibia
Sand rarely gets as red as it does in the deserts of Namibia.
Photographer: Brian Preen

11. Torres del Paine, Chile
The most alien of the 8 Natural Wonders of Chile, Torres del Paine’s mountain spires cut into the blue sky.
Photographer: winkyintheuk

12. Dead Sea, Israel/Jordan
Lowest point on Earth, deepest salt lake in the world, saltier than the ocean…the list of the Dead Sea’s bizarreness is a long one.
Photographer: Pennina Neumann

13. Strokkur Geyser, southwestern Iceland
Visitors to the Strokkur Geyser are rewarded with this display every five minutes or so.
Photographer: exfordy

14. Lake Turkana, Kenya
Lake Turkana lies in Africa’s Great Rift Valley. Its salty waters comprise the world’s largest desert lake.
Photographer: Yannick Garcin

15. Four Corners region, USA
The Colorado Plateau gets funky at the Arizona-Utah border. That’s where you’ll find Vermilion Cliffs National Monument (above) and Monument Valley (below).
Photographer: gregmote

Photographer: Wolfgang Staudt

16. Chocolate Hills, Bohol, Philippines
Over 1,700 naturally formed mounds (covered with chocolate brown grass in the dry season) dot the center of the island of Bohol.
Photographer: Lemuel Montejo

17. The Sahara
The world’s largest hot desert is as big as the entire U.S. Get stranded out here and you’ll wish you really were on an alien world.
Photographer: Jay Brezinsky

“Tunisian Sahara: Desert Stop!”
Photographer: andzer

Community Connection

As most travelers know, you don’t have to be in an alien landscape to experience the surreal. Matador contributing editor Christine Garvin wants to know, What Is Your Most Surreal Travel Experience?

For more photo-inspired gawking (with a bit of vertigo tossed in), check out Photo Essay: 13 Places to Get Close to the EDGE.

1.A view from the “Going to the Sun” road. Photo by .Bala.

2.Bits of glacier dotting the mountains. Photo by fddi1.

3.Birthplace of the watershed. Photo by fddi1.

4.The path to Hidden Lake at Logan Pass. Photo by fddi1.

5.Bear in early summer. Feature photo and photo above by Gregg Treinish.

6.Sunset over Glacier National Park. Photo by backpackphotography.

7.A cloudy day at Glacier. Photo by mtsrs.

8.A mountain goat lingering in the shadows. Photo by Gregg Treinish.

9.A lone house in the wilderness. Photo by .Bala.

10.Bluebird day at Glacier. Photo by celebdu.

11.Upper headwaters in Glacier. Photo by celebdu.

12.Lake Josephine. Photo by Navin75.

13.Grinnell Lake. Photo by Navin75.

Community Connection

Interested in visiting Glacier or elsewhere in Montana? Matador has put together one of the most comprehensive resources for Big Sky you’ll find anywhere, including locals’ recommendations for trails, rivers, mountains, restaurants, and bars.

All photos by author

Montana’s Beartooth Scenic Highway (Hwy 212) winds its way over the spine of the Rocky Mountains at 10,970 feet, linking Red Lodge to Cooke City at Yellowstone National Park’s Northeast Entrance. But this byway is more than tight switchbacks and sharp, snowy granite mountains.

Here are six ways to explore this route’s unique terrain and local culture:

1. Spring Skiing on Beartooth Pass

For expert skiers and snowboarders wanting to get a few more turns this summer: bring your skis or board. The couloirs at Beartooth Pass are skiable or ridable until early July and sometimes later, and there’s chairlift access until July 4.

Beartooth Pass has been a historic late-season training area. In 1966, the U.S. Olympic team used the bowl just below the road’s highpoint for training, leaving their equipment behind for the public.

There are plenty of other places along the highway where late-season snowfields are accessible if you don’t mind hiking or hitching rides with tourists traveling up the highway. There is no terrain there for beginners, however. Everything is steep and avalanches are common, especially in the non-lift-accessed areas.

2. National Ski Jouring Finals, Red Lodge

Ski Jouring is like water skiing on snow, where the skier is pulled by sled dogs or horses. Competitors weave through an obstacle course of slalom gates and jumps, sometimes reaching 25 mph. The second day of the Finals includes a big air competition with jumps lofting skiers up to 60 feet.

3. Ride at the Bear Tooth Rally

2009’s Bear Tooth Rally runs from July 17-19. Thousands of riders will be converging on Red Lodge for a series of events including a ride from Red Lodge up and through Beartooth Pass into Cooke City, then looping back to Red Lodge along the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway. It’s a round trip of approximately 120 miles, covered in a single day.

There’s also a ‘poker ride’ up the pass, and the Iron Horse Rodeo, where bikers show off their skills piloting their 700 lb steeds on loose dirt around a series of barrels.

4. Snowmobiling in Cooke City

Sledding in this Beartooth region is world class; just ask the development teams of both Arctic Cat and Yamaha. Both companies use the area as testing grounds for their newest equipment. Cooke City has one of the longest winter-sports seasons in the lower 48, with plenty of varied terrain.

5. Festivals and events in Red Lodge and Cooke City

Red Lodge and Cooke City both have rich local histories they celebrate each summer. Red Lodge has the infamous Mountain Man Rendezvous, where participants reenact the old days when trappers gathered to trade supplies, gamble, tell tall tales, fight, and get roaring drunk.

In contrast, the Festival of Nations, held the third week in August, is a much tamer but equally interesting festival. It began as a yearly gathering of immigrant laborers, working in mines and on farms, who would show off the dances and cuisine of their homelands.

Be ready to eat worldly food, watch traditionally dressed performers, and participate in various workshops showcasing skills brought from the Old Country.

Cooke City upholds their less eclectic traditions with their Spring Fling celebration, complete with live music, hog roast, and charity auction hocking everything from arts and crafts to snowmobile parts. The Cooke City Fish Fry has been a town-wide shindig since the 1920s, starting as a last hurrah to get people together before the heavy snow plunged the town into isolation.

In the early days, the Fry included boxing, horse racing, and gambling. Though it’s more sedate now, it’s still worth checking out if you’re in the area on the first weekend in August.

Beartooth Falls

6. The Great Outdoors (hiking, fishing, and mountaineering)

While it’s possible to take in the scenery from the road, being truly immersed in the Beartooth Wilderness is what being here is all about. There are over 700 miles of trails in the region, as well 300 lakes, some of them so remote they have yet to be named. The fish here see so few hooks that they grow to. . . mythical proportions.

Beartooth Plateau has the distinction of being the largest true high-elevation plateau in the continental U.S. There are heaps of climbing options with 25 over-12,000ft peaks, including Granite Peak at 12,807 — Montana’s highest.

While the elevation may seems low by western standards, the harsh conditions lead to a treeline that’s thousands of feet lower, exposing the craggy, vertical rock.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Experience Montana this summer! Matador has spent the spring creating a one-stop resource for planning great Montana roadtrips, whether you want to go backpacking, paddling, or just hit up some of the local bars, restaurants, and breweries.

Photo above and feature photo: Gret@Lorenz

Tasty Cuisine

Rabat and Fez are the best places for serious culinary explorations. While Rabat is the most modern and comfortable Moroccan city, Fez is traditional and fascinating. Both offer perfect moods for culinary adventures and both have attracted some of the best chefs in the country.

Some might argue that Marrakech is also a great culinary destination — and I wouldn’t disagree — but what’s happening in Rabat and Fez goes beyond catering to tourists and is directed at locals as well.

Here are some unique Moroccan culinary experiences worth seeking out:

White truffles

Photo: Gret@Lorenz

You can find these for sale along the road from Rabat to Meknes.

Artfully stacked on overturned buckets, they’re sold near oak trees growing in a special soil that stimulates the symbiotic relationship between the truffle and the oak roots.

Argan oil

A specialty of Morocco. It’s a toasty, nutty oil, traditionally derived from a complex process: the undigested pits of the Argan fruit, after being eaten by tree-climbing goats, are picked from the animals’ dung, then cleaned and toasted.

Next, the pits are ground or pressed and the oil is bottled for culinary uses or further processed for cosmetic creams and ointments.

But worry not, today the oil is produced in a more sanitary way. Its taste is a cross between peanut oil and freshly mashed green olives — an absolutely delicious way to dress a salad.

Saffron

Taliouine — south of Marrakech — offers a unique twist to the more commonly available Spanish and Iranian saffrons. The saffron of Taliouine has its own flavor due to southern Morocco’s soil makeup.

Wine

The Meknes Valley yields the finest Moroccan wine, which has come a long way. While wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times, in the past twenty years the industry has begun to make certain vintages that wine lovers the world over would gladly add to their cellars.

Photo: dominikgolenia

A particular favorite of mine is Château Roslane Premier Cru from A.O.C. Les Coteaux de l’Atlas.

Escargot

Steamed and ladled cups of brothy escargot are a fun snack that you will most likely see on the street at night.

People gather around the snail seller’s cart and sip and nibble on these hot little striped-shell delicacies.

Sacred Experiences

The biggest challenge to travel in Morocco is that non-Muslim visitors are not allowed into mosques and shrines, with the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca being the exception.

Yet, the natural beauty of Morocco more than makes up for this and possesses what my Moroccan friend Saadia would call “the Big Waloo” — the Big Nothing — as in total, pure divine presence.

From ocean vista to mountain pass to the Big Waloo of the rosy-orange desert dunes of the south, the natural world’s sacred is open to all. You can take your pick following your own preferences.

For ocean-lovers, explore the Atlantic coast from Asilah to Essaouira.

Photo: Rosino

If you’re into mountains, anywhere in the interior — from north to south — gives way to great views whose only sign of human habitation comes from the shepherds and their brown-faced sheep, black goats, and sturdy donkeys.

Those who hear the desert’s call should head south to Merzouga and ride on a camel trek into the dunes.

For a rare chance at experiencing Moroccan sacred traditions as a local, come to Fez in June and July for The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when sacred spaces otherwise closed to visitors open their doors throughout the city.

Another similar music festival unfolds annually in Essaouira in June: The Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

Romantic Locales

Asilah and Essaouira command a romantic air, with their oceanside settings and well-established art scenes. These are also two cities with an open, international mood that makes them relaxing.

Asilah is smaller and a bit more intimate, while Essaouira has more expansive possibilities. Both have the dramatic backdrop of fortified old towns against the great watery blue of the Atlantic.

Rabat is Morocco’s most mellow and cosmopolitan city, one that invites visitor interaction with the locals. Numerous cafes offer comfortable places for men and women to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee.

Photo: Vibragiel

Seaside Rabat’s medieval neighborhood, the walled medina, is a welcoming place to walk, shop, and talk to artisans carving or painting wood or working silver and gold.

Finally, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital of this part of Africa (and known in Arabic as Walili), is worth a mention.

Its romantic appeal lies in the beautiful Meknes Valley that surrounds it, and in the ancient stones and mosaics of the old city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Other guides in the Eat, Pray, Love series can be found on Portugal and Spain.

Three more articles that will satiate your food, spirit, and love needs are The World’s Best Cities for Late Night Food, How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World, and The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France.

Photo: clspeace

The Montana that most folks seek is all about wilderness, western mythology, and epic trout fishing. Even with the arrival of high-end eateries and increasingly expensive accommodations in iconic western American towns like Whitefish and Hamilton, you can still come away after a week or two in Montana with solitary experiences and money left in your billfold. Here’s how.

Photo: .Bala

Transportation

The best way to see Montana is by car.

Yes, there’s Amtrak and airports, but in the planes, trains, and automobiles trifecta, bet on the latter. Gas is a bit cheaper this year and as a rule Montana boasts some of the lowest petrol prices in the US.

The flexibility of your own ride allows for either intense investigation of one portion of the state, or a decent linear sample of Montana’s high mountains and vast prairies.

Lodging

For lodging, I subscribe to a “2/3 camping + 1/3 motel room” formula on a summer road trip, ideal in a place with plentiful outdoor sleeping options.

Besides Glacier National Park, there are nine national forests and several state parks to explore.

One unique lodging alternative involves rental of a historic fire lookout, ranger residence, or bunkhouse. Over 90 are available in the national forests. Cost is around $30.00 per night for four people, with varying levels of modern conveniences and accessibility.

They make excellent base camps for hiking, fishing, berry picking, or simply lying amongst the wildflowers in a nearby meadow (as a botany nerd, that’s where you’ll find me).

Montana is covered with campgrounds: private, public, developed, undeveloped. The latter works well if you are self contained and have no need for running water or flush toilets. They’re also best in terms of budgeting: free of charge.

Fancier campsites will cost no more than $15.00 per night. You can reserve ahead of time, good advice when approaching summer tourist hot spots. I tend to take my chances and have no qualms following an obscure Forest Service road a few miles to some unknown place. The further off the beaten path, the less competition for camping space and more opportunity for Montana-style peace and quiet.

Travelers needing a proper mattress, lights, and hot water, will find them in every town offering the typical low/moderate/high range of lodging options. I go low end to kick the dirt off, catch an installment of SportsCenter and regroup. A complimentary breakfast is always a plus.

Summer is high season and hotels/motels close to Glacier and Yellowstone will be spendy and without vacancies. This is when wandering far afield may prove scenically and financially beneficial.

Photo: Eric_Ulmer

In 2008, a friend and I stayed in an obscure fly-to resort for small plane enthusiasts when all the Highway 93 hotels were booked in Hamilton due to a June pow wow.

For $37.50 each we shared a cabin with a gorgeous view of the Bitterroots, the only guests of the chatty Cessna pilot/innkeeper and his wife.

Come day break, we found out we were just up canyon from Triple Creek Ranch, a five-star spot for the Travel and Leisure set starting at $325.00 a night per person. I don’t know what that extra $225.00 would have gotten us exactly, but I don’t think our dogs would have been welcome.

Food

In keeping with a camping/DIY strategy, preparing meals most of the time goes easier on the food budget. There’s not a town in Montana right now without a Saturday farmer’s market. The absence of a sales tax is another money saver. Montana offers morels in the spring, huckleberries in the summer, and trout all year long. You can acquire other foodstuffs on your own or purchase them along the way.

Dine out sparingly, saving up for something spectacular for supper one night and brunch come Sunday. For comprehensive, statewide dining recommendations, check out Munching Montana: A Road Trip Guide to Montana’s Most Unique Local Food.

Getting Priorities Straight

My cash goes to adventures:

Photo: bugeaters

A whitewater plunge in kayak or raft, a knowledgeable fishing guide, or a night’s stay at a hot springs resort with therapeutic waters pumped into my private claw-foot tub. I keep the day-to-day simple, inexpensive, sweet tasting, and scenic.

Not being much of a shopper, my souvenir and gift purchases center on things I can eat, read, or listen to. I’m certain the dozen-plus Matador Montana experts concur and can expand on these suggestions.

These general hints and an Internet click over to Travel Montana should have you cruising the fun and frugal road to my favorite geographical neighbor. See you in the huckleberry patch in a few weeks!

Community Connection

If exploring Big Sky Country sounds good to you, make sure to read up on Bike Touring Montana: Classic Big Sky Rides and 9 Montana Backpacking Trips That Will Blow Your Mind.

Photo above: Seamus Murray, Feature photo: Author

You have to stay close to home this summer. For East Coasters, that often translates to vacation destinations like the Vineyard, Cape, or Hamptons.

Or, you could let I-95 carry you a little farther north for an exploration of Maine’s Mount Desert Island, home of Acadia National Park. Here’s what awaits:

1. World-class scenery

Acadia has preserved two-thirds of Mount Desert Island, regularly ranked among the ten most beautiful islands in the world because of its rocky coastline, glacial lakes, boreal forests, and the only fjord on America’s Atlantic coast.

Add in lighthouses and fishing villages, and you’ll understand its unique appeal to travelers who love both the mountains and the sea.

Photo: Author

2. Maine’s adventure triathlon

Hiking, biking, and kayaking are the trio of Acadia sports that take advantage of the park’s 130 miles of trails and 57 miles of car-free carriage roads.

Rock climbing sites are first-class, including the 110-foot Otter Cliff, where you rappel down over the crashing Atlantic surf and then climb back up.

3. Budget campgrounds

The national park service offers two campgrounds for $10-$20/night. Or, for those not into roughing it, there are other options ranging from 50s-style motels in Bar Harbor to romantic B&Bs all over the island.

If your stay is a week or longer, try negotiating rates on a rental. (Even before the meltdown, an oversupply yielded some flexibility from owners.)

4. Car-free transport

L.L. Bean offers a free, ecofriendly bus service around the island that’ll save you money and make you feel even better for foregoing that cross-hemisphere plane trip this summer. Additionally, an Acadia website lists several options for getting to Bar Harbor without a car.

Photo: Author

5. Tasty microbreweries

Awarding-winning American microbrews are born on this island at Bar Harbor Brewing and Atlantic Brewery. You can skip the tour and just join the generous tastings to do your part to “save the ales.”

6. Maine lobster

The island abounds in lobster pounds featuring mussels, steamers, New England clam chowder, and lobster pulled straight from Maine’s icy waters, which makes it the sweetest, most delicious catch anywhere.

7. Your sister-in-law lies

Nothing’s free. She’ll guilt you into picking up the tab at one of the Vineyard’s $40-entrée restaurants that make you feel just like you’d stayed home anyway.

Community Connection:

For more Maine fun, read about Katahdin: Maine’s Mountain, The Best Hiking Trail in Maine, and Trips’ Green Guide to (the Other) Portland.

Matador members advenjunkie, Laisee, AbbyB, and aya all either hail from Maine or are currently in-state. Get your networking on!

Photo: Bernt Rostad

OK. You’ve decided you want to take the world’s longest and most famous train ride. But aside from playing cards, drinking tea (ahem, vodka), and eating noodles on the train, what are you going to do? Unless you really have to be somewhere, I highly recommend at least a few stops along the journey.

Kizhi Island

Hardly a quick side trip, Kizhi Island — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is a bit off the beaten track. It’s most easily visited from Petrozavodsk, which is an overnight train ride from St. Petersburg. Yes, most people begin their Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow, but I say if you’re going to do it, go all out and start from St. Pete.

Photo: Author

From Petrozavodsk, it’s a quick ferry ride (or snowcat in the winter) to this open-air museum of fantastic wooden architecture.

The Transconfiguration Church, with its 22 domes, is the obvious eye-pleaser. Russia’s oldest wooden church, dating back to the 14th century — the Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus — is also a highlight. It’s crazy to think that these wooden structures use no nails or metal at all.

The reconstructed village of Karelia offers some insight into the traditions and life of peasants in the Karelia region. While there is no overnight accommodation for visitors, there are some residents living on the island.

Kizhi is also accessible as a port of call for cruises between Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Note: Smoking on the island is prohibited!

Suzdal

Photo: Author

You’ll most likely be spending time in Moscow. If you want to get away from the hectic city for a breather, a five-hour bus ride will get you to the little church town of Suzdal. There are more churches than you can shake a stick at, and they are mostly architecturally varied. At one point in time there was one church per every 12 residents.

It’s a beautiful (and I dare say romantic) town to stroll around, with its colourful little houses, green meadows, and peaceful streams. Watch old Ladas sputter past you and chickens peck religiously on front lawns.

Suzdal is part of the Golden Ring, a chain of towns northeast of Moscow. Each one played an important part in Russian history and culture, including a “significant role in the formation of the Russian Orthodox Church,” so you may also want to work more of these into your itinerary.

Krasnoyarsk

Photo: Author

A tick over 4000 kms east of Moscow is the city of Krasnoyarsk. After being on the train for 65 hours you’ll want a chance to give your legs a good, long stretch. This is the perfect place for it.

The Stolby Nature Reserve can be reached by city bus and is home to the famous “pillars.” Scattered throughout the forest are tall and unusually shaped rock structures; they are the object of tradition and folklore to the residents of Krasnoyarsk.

They also make a great base for practicing free climbing — rock climbing without a rope — which we gave a shot on a couple of the smaller rocks. Just be careful; going up is one thing, coming down is a bit tougher.

Olkhon Island

Everyone stops in Irkutsk; it’s just something you do. But not everyone makes the trip to Olkhon Island, a small piece of land in Lake Baikal.

A bus (or van) transports you six hours away from Irkutsk, along both smooth and bumpy roads, and across the water on a small ferry, before unloading you in Kuzhir. Kuzhir is the largest settlement on the island which I heard just got electricity in 2005. Better late than never.

Photo: Cyrille Le Déaut

Nikita’s Homestay is the place to go for accommodation. Try to get into one of the cozy little huts with a wood-burning stove. The costs include all meals, which are wonderful and usually feature the native Baikal fish, omul.

They’ll even pack up your lunch in a take-away bag if you want to go off and explore the island. There are sandy beaches, rolling hills, and taiga to keep you busy. And when you’re out there, stop and listen to the silence. It’s golden.

The only way to shower at Nikita’s is banya style. These are Russian saunas, where you sweat yourself silly for a while, then pour cool water from a barrel over yourself (or your partner) with a big ladle. Soap up, rinse, repeat. This is best done late in the evening because you will want to sleep right after. If only I could build one of these in my flat.

More options

10 minutes outside Omsk / Photo: Bernt Rostad

Of course, there are numerous other stops you can make along the way to break up your trip. If the thought of three days on the train between Moscow and Krasnoyarsk has you feeling claustrophobic already, you may want to consider overnighting at Ekatinerinburg, Omsk, and/or Novosibirsk.

Don’t overstay your visa

Be very careful of your visa situation. A Finnish couple we hosted received their Russian visa, valid for a week. Even though the embassy assured them it was alright before they left, they were detained and extorted for ridiculous sums of money as they tried to exit Russia after their visas expired.

Don’t make the same mistake. Make sure your visa is good for a month and get out of dodge before it expires. It’s not a game worth playing.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Don’t think you can do this independently, with not one single agent’s help? Think again: Why You Should Travel Independently on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

For detailed blog entries about my trip in late 2007, the first post is here.

Photo above: jurvetson, Feature photo: tarotastic

The Kokoda Trail in Papa New Guinea (PNG) has been getting quite a bit of news as of late. Last month, two trekkers died while trying to complete it. Last week, Kovelo villagers, who felt they hadn’t seen the materialization of financial benefits promised by the Australian and PNG governments, blocked the trail. They were demanding $100 from each trekking group to pass.

As reported in this story from the Herald Sun, an agreement was reached which satisfied the villagers, and they have since ended their protest.

Some history about the trail

The Kokoda Trail was made famous during World War II, when the Australian army (the Diggers), eventually aided by the Americans, held off an invading Japanese army. Although the Japanese had the man and weaponry advantage, they weren’t prepared for the harsh conditions along this trail, the only route of escape for them.

In the end, the Japanese lost 13,000 out of 20,000 soldiers (contrast that with 6000 casualties on the Australian side).

An account of the trail as it was during WWII can be found at the Digger History website.

The trail today

Photo: panvorax

These days a number of companies operate trekking excursions on the trail. Local guides and porters can also be hired.

It’s possible to do the trek independently, but parts of the trail are unmarked and with the extreme temperatures that can be experienced there it’s not advisable to go on your own. Depending on your condition, it can take anywhere between five and 12 days.

If you’re a glutton for punishment, there’s the Kokoda Challenge, where teams of four compete to complete the 96 km course within the unbelievable time limit of 39 hours. All I can say is, good luck with that.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

For more treks, make sure to check out these two in Nepal: the Annapurna Sanctuary and the Mt. Kangchenjunga Circuit. Matador editor Tim Patterson also has some great tips for Trekking Central Laos.

Photo above: hermanusbackpackers, Feature photo: Iggy.

“Shark! SHARK! Get down, now!”

We each took a healthy breath and disappeared beneath the Indian Ocean. Two Great Whites sashayed just inches in front of us in rapid succession. Minutes later, another sprinted past in search of a morning snack.

Despite the fact that our guide’s instructions to head into the water when a shark was coming seemed a bit, well, counterintuitive, we’d obeyed without question. After all, we’d paid money to get close to Great Whites…in their natural environment.

Diving with sharks is often considered an extreme adventure activity. But instead I found it to be an educational — and yes, thrilling — way to gain an understanding of the creatures that have stricken fear in millions due to movies like Jaws and media reports of shark attacks.

Great Whites 101

Photo: Erik Charlton

My outing with Shark Lady Adventures (launching from Gansbaai, two hours east of Cape Town) began with an educational lesson about Great Whites. This included what kind of behavior to expect and a discussion about common myths.

Yes, they are carnivores. No, they’re not particularly interested in eating people.

Still, that assurance didn’t do much to ease the tension when our guide offered up this factoid: “Sharks can pick up heart vibrations easily. So if you get scared while you’re out there today, the sharks will know.”

Preparing to Get Intimate

Our boat jetted out to Shark Alley, which boasts the densest population of Great Whites in the world.

We opted for the “breath hold,” at our guide’s suggestion. It’s exactly what you’d expect — you hold your breath, dunk beneath the surface, and view the sharks swimming by — no diving certification necessary. The sharks we saw didn’t hang out in one spot anyway, so SCUBA gear wouldn’t have helped.

After anchoring, the cage was slowly lowered into the water. Our group watched in fascination.

“Does that thing look safe?” someone muttered to no one in particular.

It seemed sturdy, and of course we knew it was designed to protect shark-gazers like us. Still, it was hard not to imagine some minor flaw that would turn us into shark food.

The staff member we’d dubbed the “chum master” set to work creating a lovely chum soup to attract the sharks, while another chopped off a fish head to use as bait.

We slipped into full-body wetsuits, booties, and goggles. Once the bait was cast, the first group of four hopped into the cage — after a final reminder from the guide that we should “keep all of our limbs inside.”

Photo: Deon Maritz

Face to Face with the Ocean’s Top Predator

To save our breath, we were instructed to keep our heads above the surface until the guide gave the signal. It didn’t take long.

“SHARK COMING FROM THE LEFT…WAIT, WAIT…NOW! GO DOWN NOW!”

We gulped a breath and went down. The shark zipped by to say hi, a race of gray a finger’s length from our eyes.

When we came up again, we were all smiles, despite a few initial underwater shrieks. Another shark coasted by just moments later. And then another — this one body-checked the cage while going for the tuna bait. We were treated to a lovely view of his rows of sharp, not-so-pearly whites in the process.

Photo: hermanusbackpackers

It’s fascinating to see how different each animal is, and we soon started to recognize them. You can see their distinctive eyes, how their scars differ. Each one has its own personality.

Everyone had two 30-minute sessions in the cage, although our guides said the time can vary based on a variety of factors. You can also join a trip as a surface viewer, but I strongly suggest getting in the water.

I found it to be more of a fascination sport than an adrenaline one. Sure, it’s a tad scary when that first shark comes at you. But soon you realize the experience is simply about watching these creatures in their natural habitat and the fear dissipates.

Practicalities

The best months for shark sightings are April to August, while early January to mid-March tend to be the worst. When planning a shark diving adventure, keep in mind that inclement weather may prevent the boats from going out, so it’s best to allocate an extra day in case your original outing is postponed.

Most participants either do a day trip to Gansbaai from Cape Town or stay in nearby Hermanus.

Shark Lady Adventures charges R1500 (~$170) per person for the experience. For more information, visit their website. Cage Diver is another option.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Sharks, elephants, and bears, oh my! Find out how to come face to face with these and other perilous species in “8 Trips for Getting Close to the World’s Deadliest Animals.”

For something a bit tamer but equally unforgettable, read the Matador travel article “Diving with Whale Sharks.”

Photos: author

Park up, pour a glass of wine, and enjoy one of nature’s best shows.

Hossegor, France

Hossegor lies at the end of the Côte d’Argent, the longest uninterrupted stretch of sand in Europe — it seems to go on forever in both directions.

The beaches teem with young French and foreign surfers in the summer, capitalizing on the town’s waves and nightlife. The Gulf Stream ensures an unnaturally temperate sea, and thus climate — suited to both beach lazing and wine making — that make Hossegor an unbeatable spot to pull up and watch the sun go down.

Playa America, West Spain

The beach of Playa America sits just north of the border with Portugal. It’s the centrepiece of an authentic Spanish resort, peppered with tapas bars and seafood that makes it from crab-pot to plate within hours. The relaxed feel of the town stretches to the beach, where the long summer days mean extended sun basking.

As the Spanish don’t change their clocks for summertime — and you’re about as west as you get in Europe — afternoon slips into evening and the sun hangs on till eleven in June.

As it finally fades over the horizon, the sky takes on a rose-tinted glow.

Peniche, Portugal

The diverse selection of beaches around the old fishing town of Peniche makes it a perfect destination on any “North-South” European surf trip. Quite often, a “quick stop” becomes a longer stay.

The prime van spot overlooks the reef-break of Lagide; there’s usually a mini-village of 20 to 30 parked vans. You may have to wait an hour for someone to leave so you can snatch a prime front-row seat and watch surfers ride the left-hander.

The car park also has a cold-water shower — a genuine van-life treat — and a 300-degree perspective for sunset viewing as another day fades away.

Conil, South Spain

Almost squeezed through the Strait of Gibraltar by the unremitting Atlantic, Conil desperately hangs on and offers a final sanctuary before the package-holiday-hell that is the Spanish Mediterranean.

Less exposed than its western counterpart, the south coast of the Atlantic is a visually and physically mellower affair.

The historic fishing town of Conil is now a staple for Spanish tourists, and joining the masses for their late-afternoon promenade is an affirming communal experience. The scope of its beach is almost Saharan and the walk to the sea is a long but pleasant one.

The Med does offer Conil something: the sea is much warmer than farther west — you can surf here in boardshorts for much of the year — and on a clear evening you can make out the shores of Tangier and the Atlas Mountains far to the south.

The town itself stretches up behind you in a patchwork of whitewashed houses, providing an excellent screen on which to project the pinks and purples of Europe’s southernmost sunset.

Rioja, Spain

Although not technically on the Atlantic, Rioja is an essential addition given wine’s important role in promoting a full sensory sunset experience.

Rioja is one of Europe’s most celebrated wine regions and, as with its fizzier northern cousin Champagne, provides a promise of some of the best vino around.

Vines drape over the region’s hills and late afternoon provides a deep and vibrant tableau — the sunlight plays on the hills, the wine stimulates your taste buds…and the sunsets: a full-stop falling off the page at the end of another chapter.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Matador also has info on how to camperize your ride, as well as converting it to run for free on vegetable oil. For more interesting discussion on customizing your van, check out this community forum post.

All photos: Carl Montgomery

Near-continuous violence since the Soviets invaded in 1979 has been effective at erasing Afghanistan from most tourists’ maps.

But it seems the government is hoping for a change with the creation last week of the country’s first national park. In addition to attracting visitors, the park should provide vital protection to a region where it’s been lacking in the past.

Band-e-Amir National Park is located in central Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush Mountains and includes five high-altitude lakes. Nearby Bamyan Valley made headlines in 2001 when its massive, 1,500-year-old Buddha statues where dynamited by the Taliban.

The park’s establishment could also tip the scales in the region’s favor regarding its pending candidacy for UNESCO World Heritage status.

Visitors will still have difficulties to contend with — ongoing military actions being the first that comes to mind, as well as a local fishing method utilizing hand grenades. But the park also offers much in the way of pristine nature, according to BBC reporter Alan Johnston:

“In the stillness of the high, thin air, the blue and turquoise waters are often like glass, perfectly reflecting the slopes around them.”

For more on this fresh travel destination, check out the BBC’s take here.

Community Connection:

Alan Johnston isn’t the only one reporting from the ground in Afghanistan. Matador members YoLeven and moshdeh are currently in-country, and they’ve posted a couple killer blogs about their experiences.

Other ideas on travel to protected natural areas, including some as unexpected as this one, can be found in 13 of the World’s Richest National Parks.

Photo above: NeilsPhotography, Feature photo: juanete

Psychedelic desert: the Southwest Circuit

You’re in the middle of Bolivian nowhere.

In front of you is a shallow bowled depression, its center carpeted in a bright green lake filled with flamingos. Over your shoulder rise twin volcanic peaks, capped with ice. Just beyond the next ridge stretches a snow-white salt flat, rippling with heat from the midday sun…

Few travelers to Bolivia miss the “Southwest Circuit.” The Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat, is its star attraction. Standing in the center of its 4,000-square-mile expanse, horizons vanish, leaving nothing but blinding white below and rich, unblemished blue above.

Those lucky enough to visit during the wet summer, when the entire plain is covered in an inches-thick pool of water that reflects the cloudy sky, can convince themselves their Land Cruiser has taken flight.

But the salar fills only one day of the circuit tour. The rest are spent tearing through some of the most inhospitable desert terrain on the planet.

Brilliantly colored chemical lakes, peak after peak of snowy volcanoes, and Andean wildlife (llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, flamingos, and ostrich, for starters) all compete with the salar for your camera’s memory card megabytes.

Photo: zaturno

I doubt anyone regrets the trip—that said, all tours are not created equal.

The salar and deserts of Los Lípez see more visitors every year. Caravans of jeeps depart daily from the town of Uyuni, the traditional starting point. After four days stuck in the middle of the globular tourist amoeba, many are left asking, “Is there a better way to do this?”

The answer is yes.

Turn the tables: start in Tupiza

Your best option for escaping the crowds is to traverse the circuit in reverse. Make the town of Tupiza your point of origin, with a tour that loops through the sights and ends in Uyuni.

Photo: zaturno

In addition to having the Lípez to yourself, you’ll be saving the best for last. Why knock out the salar on the first day, as the typical Uyuni tours do? They also require a long, backtracking drive on the last day.

By ditching the masses, you’ll avoid the sketchier agencies operating out of Uyuni. Companies there pop up and disappear again without notice, making it close to impossible to get reliable recommendations.

For the most part, Tupiza-based agencies are more established. They have a smaller customer base, and therefore more to prove.

Regardless of who you go with, your tour from Tupiza will look something like this:

Day 1

Bust out of town around 9am and drive till sunset through canyon-cut, cactus-covered terrain. Though lacking “big-name” sights, the day exposes you to the desolation of Los Lípez and gives you a glimpse of what life is like for the few communities living here. Other jeeps = scarce to nonexistent.

Day 2

The mountainous, llama-filled desert continues, transforming mile by mile into the surreal vistas that make it onto the postcards. Once you enter Eduardo Avaroa National Wildlife Refuge, it’s on: colored lakes, hot springs, flamingo flocks, geysers, crazy rock formations, and painted volcanoes.

At some point, you’ll hit Laguna Verde and Volcán Licancabur in the country’s southwest corner. From here, you can tack on an extra day and climb the 19,400 ft (5900 m) Licancabur or other peaks. It’s also possible to hop over the border, connecting to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile.

Photo: wili_hybrid

Day 3

After two days of solitude, the Land Cruisers start to multiply around the eerily red Laguna Colorada. Pulling up at the sculpted rocks that surround Árbol de Piedra, only to find them covered with sunburned, North-Faced climbers, comes as quite a shock.

More lakes await, and the end of the day will bring you to the edge of the salar itself.

Day 4

Photo: hillsieboy

This is really a long half day. Wake before dawn to catch the sunrise on the salt.

A visit to the cactus-infested Isla del Pescado is followed by a group photo shoot in the middle of the salar, where the lack of distance perspective makes all kinds of crazy camera illusions possible.

After checking out a hotel made entirely of salt and a stop at a tourist market, you should pull into Uyuni around 1pm.

Practicalities

Tupiza is roughly 11 hours by train from Oruro, and a handful more from La Paz. Hop the train if you can; the buses running the route are old and drafty. Breakdowns are common.

Solo travelers and couples should schedule at least one extra day in Tupiza — longer in the low season — to find a group to hook up with. Standard tours won’t leave with fewer than four passengers; five or six means less legroom but bigger savings.

Photo: Naturaleza

Killing time in town isn’t difficult. This is Butch and Sundance country (the outlaws were gunned down in a village less than an hour away), with scenery rivaling the best of the American West.

Horseback riding, canyon hiking, and rock climbing will keep you occupied till your tour leaves.

Operators running out of Tupiza are scarce compared to the hordes of Uyuni-based agencies. Tupiza Tours is one of the originals and has managed to maintain a solid reputation through the years. Yet even with them, it’s essential to double check the contract—triple check if your group is doing anything other than the standard 4-day tour.

Other options include Valle Hermoso and El Grano de Oro Tours.

One last note: it gets cold in the desert. Damn cold. Accommodations are basic and unheated. Bring a sleeping bag or rent one from your company — even in the summer. During the winter, if you’re lucky your guide will give you a hot water bottle each night to stuff into the bottom of your bag. Yeah…daaaamn cold.

Photo: jaytkendall

Community Connection:

Check out today’s companion post, “Summiting Mount Doom in Bolivia,” for further details on climbing Volcán Licancabur.

For more on Bolivia’s spectacular sights, read about photographer Ron Dubin’s assignment in the country in “Big Bolivian Sunsets.”

If you’re looking to mix a little philanthropy with your visit to the country, Matador member org Sustainable Bolivia offers a range of rewarding volunteer opportunities.

Photo: Winky in the UK

One of the first mentions of a national park came from William Wordsworth in 1810. Looking out over England’s Lake District, he commented that it should be a “national property in which every man has a right and interest who has an eye to perceive and a heart to enjoy.”

It wasn’t until 1872 that Yellowstone — widely considered the world’s first national park — was officially established in the United States. Today, there are an estimated 6,555 national parks worldwide. Here are 13 to get you started.

1. Sagarmatha (Nepal)

Covering 1,148 square kilometers and four climatic zones, the UNESCO-listed Sagarmatha National Park is more than mountain views. The hiking route through the park in the direction of Mount Everest is one of Nepal’s best treks.

Photo: cotaro70s

2. Grand Canyon (USA)

A U.S. classic, Grand Canyon National Park contains one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. Beyond staring wide-eyed from the South Rim and riding a mule to the bottom, the park has plenty of terrain for extended backpacking, cultural exploration, and Colorado River trips.

Photo: B Rosen

3. Sundarbans (India)

The dense mangrove forests of Sundarbans National Park in West Bengal make an ideal home for tigers, among other animals. Floating safaris are the most common activity, but travelers can also visit the animal rehabilitation projects in the area.

Photo: joiseyshowaa

4. Great Barrier Reef (Australia)

Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, another Natural Wonder of the World, has divers polishing their goggles with excitement. Angling is also doable here in the largest reef system on the planet, but be wary of the no-fishing zone that covers one-third of the park.

Photo: Leonard Low

5. Bwindi Impenetrable (Uganda)

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park might not have the friendliest name, but get beyond that and you’ll find one of the most diverse ecosystems in Africa, home to animals like the mountain gorilla. Though the park is remote and permits are required, organized tours offer a chance to see the gorillas and other wildlife.

Photo: Chrissy Olson

6. Manuel Antonio (Costa Rica)

Even though Manuel Antonio National Park is the smallest in Costa Rica, it still receives more than 150,000 visitors every year, making it the second most visited in the country. The setting is unbeatable — visitors can take their pick between beaches and hiking trails.

Photo: Alpha Tango Bravo / Adam Taylor

7. Banff (Canada)

Established in 1885, Banff National Park is Canada’s oldest. Like many of the popular national parks in North America, development hasn’t been held back, but the tourist shops and RV parks can’t take away from the towering mountains. Kick back in a hot spring, paddle across Lake Louise, or hike one of the imposing peaks.

Photo: lazlo-photo

8. Chitwan (Nepal)

Nepal’s oldest national park, Chitwan was established in 1973 and is famous for the Bengal tigers and single-horned Indian rhinoceros that call it home. Elephant and walking safaris allow travelers to view the wildlife.

Photo: wonker

9. Yosemite (USA)

Yosemite National Park receives more than 3.5 million visitors every year, but most stay within the seven-square-mile Yosemite Valley. Once you’ve glimpsed the intimidating mass of El Capitan and Half Dome, escape the crowds and explore one of the park’s wilderness areas.

Photo: Alaskan Dude

10. Gobi Gurvansaikhan (Mongolia)

At over 27,000 square kilometers, Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park is the largest in Mongolia. It contains part of the Gobi Desert, a large area of steppe, and one of the country’s mountain ranges.

Photo: xfce

11. Triglav (Slovenia)

Slovenia’s Triglav National Park protects a variety of terrain, including the peaks and crags of the Julian Alps, lush alpine meadows, and the broad forested valleys of the Soča and Sava rivers. The Triglav itself — Slovenia’s tallest peak — stands near the center of the park.

Photo: 29cm

12. Mikumi (Tanzania)

What would a trip to Africa be without a safari? Tanzania’s Mikumi National Park is one of the country’s lesser-visited parks, meaning fewer crowds and more feasible protection of the animals and environment. Visit in the dry season and you’ll likely have it all to yourself.

Photo: paulshaffner

13. Torres del Paine (Chile)

Torres del Paine National Park, located on the southern tip of Argentina, is a prime spot for climbing and trekking. Though the weather can be severe, the views of the Cordillera del Paine, Fitzroy, and other mountains are unmatched. Travelers can explore the rivers, glaciers, and mountains of the park while staying in basic refugios.

Photo: magical-world

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Of course, these are only drops in the bucket. If old-growth forest is what you’re looking for, check out this post by Ellen Wilson.

Have a read here for some thought-provoking words by Fiona Murray, who wonders if “nature is for sale.”

Photo courtesy of Travel Montana

There’s a scene in A River Runs Through It where Brad Pitt’s character is up to his waist in the middle of the Blackfoot River and yells over the roar of the rapids:

“What are they biting on?”

This beautiful cinematic moment is a summer one. But fly fishing enthusiasts know a seasonal secret: the best time to fish the iconic waters of Big Sky country is spring. Come late March/early April, winter slides off the spine of the Bitterroots as light and warmth entice Skwala stoneflies and March brown drake mayflies out of their casings.

The serious, pleasurable work of catching fish from the end of an elegant cast is about to start.

Photo: Clydehurst

Why Montana?

Besides all the attention the Norman Maclean memoir and the Robert Redford film rendition garnered, Montana has some of the best fly fishing in the world for very practical reasons: its wild fish populations have been protected since 1963 with the passage of the nation’s first stream preservation legislation.

Rather than simply throwing in stockers from hatcheries to please the masses, biologists and natural resource professionals key to the habitat of native cold water fisheries. This helps protect water quality, stream flows, and healthy stream bank vegetation.

It also ensures wily wildness in the fish at the end of your line, fish that spook when your shadow darkens the shore. In a true angler’s opinion, it’s a much more exciting catch than hooking some lunker just out of the Fish and Game truck.

Photo: bugeaters

Montana has also been ahead of the curve in terms of catch and release policy, encouraging the use of barbless hooks for decades. Better to enjoy the thrill of the “get” rather than the taste of the flesh, putting the fish back in the stream and letting them get bigger, perhaps to be caught another day (or not).

Matching the Hatch

For beginners still sorting out their new Orvis purchases, “matching the hatch” is the process of mimicking the entomological cycle of native insects when selecting your artificial fly.

A hatch in full force is an electric event to witness. Nymphs, the insect equivalent of adolescents, morph from teenagers into winged adults instantaneously. The water surface bubbles and boils with feeding trout. Depending on what species is hatching, the ichthyology can get acrobatic.

The initial urge is to tie on your best rendition of a grown-up fly and get in on the action. But before you wet a line, take a deep breath and observe.

Photo: bugeaters

It may not be the flying forms the fish are after. The way the trout moves is an excellent indicator of what’s being eaten and where. Are fish jumping clear out of the water? Caddis emergers are probably making a quick run for the surface.

Small white fish mouths opening and closing below the water so you can see them? Classic surface feeding on small midges. Tails pointed upward towards you? Nymph feast on the riverbed!

Matching the hatch is more than noticing what’s flying around you. What’s underneath a rock may be what you want to tie on your line any given spring day.

Where to Go Before Memorial Day

When it comes to spectacular trout fisheries the “west is best,” meaning the left portion of Montana is where to focus your efforts in the coming months. This includes southern Montana as well.

Memorial Day marks the beginning of summer and the crowds that come with it, so get your license, dust off the tackle box, and head to these Montana waters before school lets out.

Early April: Right now (and I mean right now) the Skwala stoneflies open the surface action on the Bitterroot and Clark Fork Rivers in NW Montana and Rock Creek in SW Montana.

April through mid-May: March Brown and Grey Drake Mayflies are big versions of the genus and make their debut each spring on the Missouri, Bitterroot and Clark Fork Rivers. It’s the season’s first large mayfly hatch. Mercurial weather usually means fishing pressure is fairly light.

Mother’s Day Mayflies: The Yellowstone River rolls through southern Montana to the border with Wyoming and the United States’ first national park. About the time we celebrate our maternal connections, mayflies pop on the surface of one of North America’s premier trout fisheries.

Community Connection:

Matador loves Montana! Check out Travel Montana, a leading Matador partner and terrific source of support in terms of food, lodging, and those all important fly fishing guides and shops.

This year’s snowmelt is pumping up Montana’s rivers right now for both fishing and paddling. If you’re interested in kayaking or floating some of the classic Big Sky runs, as well as additional information and resources for visiting Montanas’ rivers, check out our guide to Boating the Big Sky.

Photo above: sebastian ceriani, Feature photo: Army.mil

Central Laos does not get many travelers, and the tourism office in the provincial capital of Tha Khaek has done a good job of designing treks that alleviate poverty in isolated villages without disrupting local culture.

Travelers get a chance to experience a beautiful part of rural Laos where the locals take pride in hosting foreign guests – a happy balance that does not always exist in more heavily touristed regions of Southeast Asia.

Basics

The 2-day trek costs about $65 per person for a group of at least 3 people — more for couples or single travelers. This is a fair price, and much of the money goes to local villagers who guide groups through the mountains and cook delicious meals.

Travelers start out in Tha Khaek, a medium-sized town on the Mekong River that’s about halfway between Vientiane and Pakse.

There’s a wonderful guesthouse in Tha Khaek called The Travel Lodge that has a range of inexpensive rooms, a good restaurant, and friendly, competent staff. If you’re on your own, this is also a good place to meet other travelers who can join you on the trek.

Destinations

Community Connection to Laos

Phu Hin Bun NPA

The trek explores the Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area, an isolated region of jagged peaks and clear, turquoise streams that looks like a classical Chinese landscape painting. The sheer mountainsides are refuges for several species of endangered primates, and tigers stalk the deepest parts of the jungle.

The villagers who live in the Phu Hin Bun NPA are largely self-sufficient, growing rice, fruit and vegetables, and raising water buffalo, pigs, chickens, and cows. While many treks in Laos visit ethnic minorities, the villagers here are mostly lowland Lao.

Eat, Walk, Swim

I LOVED the food on this trek. Fresh catfish grilled with garlic over a campfire on the banks of a stream was served alongside sticky rice, mountain vegetables, eggplant, and traditional pastes of herbs and chili.

For dinner we ate water buffalo laap, a Lao dish of minced meat with herbs and spices. Vegetarian options were limited but available.

The walks through the forest were broken up by frequent stops at spectacular swimming holes, including a sacred wellspring of turquoise water called Khoun Kong Leng.

Other highlights included a cave that links two valleys by cutting straight through a mountain, and an old temple where the prayer bell was made from the shell of a 500-pound bomb. This bombshell was a poignant reminder of the massive U.S. bombing campaign of rural Laos — a war that the White House kept secret from both Congress and the American people.

Cultural Respect

Visiting this part of Central Laos is a privilege, and travelers should take care to respect Lao customs. Understand that Lao people are extremely non-confrontational and place a premium on smooth social interactions.

Be gentle, kind, patient, and appreciative. Showing any sign of frustration or anger is extremely rude in Laos, so if you don’t like something it’s better just to smile and, if you must, gently inquire about alternatives. The head guide will speak reasonable English, but speak slowly and try to learn some Lao words. Everyone will be thrilled to hear you make the effort.

Photo: Mat Honan

Community Connection:

Other Matador articles on Laos include travel guides to Champasak and Muang Ngoi Neua, and an excellent article that gives the low-down on a unique two-week itinerary in Northern Laos.

You can also read the uncensored version of my San Francisco Chronicle feature on Luang Prabang, the ancient royal capital of Laos. The Matador version is called “Lusty Luang Prabang.”

One final resource is the excellent website Ecotourism Laos.

If you have other helpful links, questions, or advice for travelers, please leave a comment below. For those without a Matador profile, please take a moment to join the community. You won’t regret it!

Photo above: abkfenris, Feature photo: a song under the sugar sugar

Its rough bulk rises from the pine forest, northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail and highest point in Maine at 5,267 feet above sea level.

Mount Katahdin is the centerpiece of Baxter State Park. Governor Percival Baxter created this 150,000-acre tract in 1931 with the intention that it “forever be kept and remain in the Natural Wild State.” In doing so, he gave Katahdin the illustrious title of “mountain of the people of Maine.”

With over 200 miles of trail in the park, summit-bound climbers have options. Cathedral is a fun scramble, but Knife Edge, a razor-thin ridgeline route with thousand-foot drops on either side, earns top props. If you’re all outta juice for the return, the longer but gentler Saddle is a good pick.

Even in summer, Katahdin’s stiff winds and frequent rains can chill. Check current conditions before committing to a climb, pack cold-weather gear, and register at the ranger station before heading up.

Access to Baxter trailheads is limited daily; those serving Katahdin (Roaring Brook, Abol, and Katahdin Stream) are most popular. Maine residents can reserve parking spots in advance, but for everyone else it’s best to camp the night before or arrive wicked early in the morning.

Community Connection:

Got a thing for mountains? Hit up past posts in this series on Quandary Peak and the Zugsptize. For a sweet collection of Matador mountain climbing blogs, visit this page.

Photo above: nophun201, Feature photo: clspeace

Haines, Alaska

There’s no American wilderness more spectacular than that of “the last frontier,” and Haines is an ideal gateway. From the town there is relatively easy access to the Davidson Glacier, and super easy access to the paddling / rafting on the Chilkat River and hiking in the Takshanuk Mountains. In winter, the Chilkat Pass has limitless snowsports options.

Ithaca, NY

Western New York State is vast and overlooked. A great starting point to explore this region is the hilly town of Ithaca, overflowing with all the wining, dining, and partying that defines college culture.

“Ithaca is Gorges,” reads the popular t-shirt sported by Cornell students, referencing the area’s abundance of dramatic landscapes. Hiking, biking, fishing, and cross country skiing—yes, in addition to gorge jumping—are all on offer here by the Finger Lakes.

Photo: nancycallahan

Fayetteville, West Virginia

Fayetteville is nicknamed, “Gateway to the New River Gorge.” This tiny town is famous for its annual Bridge Day, where BASE jumpers from around the world jump off the bridge spanning the New River. Fayetteville has a tight community of paddlers who stoke on the nearly year-round access to the New and Gauley Rivers.

Whitefish, Montana

The Northern Rockies are home to true wilderness, and Whitefish is your #1 gateway. Whatever you’re fired up on—mountain biking, fishing, paddling, camping, skiing—the town has “out your backdoor” access to rivers, lakes, Whitefish Mountain Resort, and Glacier National Park.

Photo: .Bala

Asheville, North Carolina

Though the center of a metropolitan area of nearly 400,000, Asheville retains a small-town feel and represents a great launching point for western North Carolina’s wild spaces.

This college town provides a mix of culture (live music, arts festivals, and watering holes) and nature. The French Broad river flows right through the town, and you can also hop right on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is an hour’s drive to the west.

Marathon, Texas

The tiny dot of Marathon stands out on the big, empty map of west Texas. An old railroad and livestock town, it now features arts and crafts galleries, atmospheric diners, and eccentric lodging options.

Wild is a description that applies to the entire region, but the main draw lies an hour down Highway 385 in Big Bend National Park for desert exploration and climbing.

Photo: (Bill and Mavis) – B&M Photography

Orono, ME

A true college town, Orono packs a lot into a small package. Outdoors shops, pizza joints, and pub life collide in the tiny village center, surrounded by parks, forest, and the sprawling UMO campus.

You can head south for the heavily touristed but stunning coastal scenery of Acadia National Park, but for real wilderness, head towards Baxter State Park and Mount Katahdin.

Salida, Colorado

Sitting right between two great sections of the Arkansas River, Salida is a community of rec-heads. It’s a quick drive from Monarch, one of the state’s best under-the-radar ski areas, and when the snow melts it pumps up the Arkansas, giving paddling and rafting options for the whole family.

There are almost limitless camping and hiking options along the entire Arkansas from Salida to Buena Vista. If you’re in the area this June, make sure to check out the FIBArk boating festival.

Moab, Utah

Moab is unique in the world for the spectacular formations in its high desert terrain. Arches and Canyonlands National Parks are at its doorstep. A mountain biking mecca, two-wheelers come here from around the world for the of the area’s trails, ranging from beginner peddles to the super-intense Slickrock Trail.

Photo: ooOJasonOoo

Truckee, CA

For easy access to the year-round outdoors adventures of the Lake Tahoe region, minus the casino culture of nearby towns, Truckee’s where you want to be.

Whether you’re gearing up for some epic fly fishing or a trek through Eldorado National Forest, Truckee has everything you’ll need in a base of operations.

Port Angeles, Washington

The largest town on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula is also your gateway to one of the Pacific Northwest’s best, but least frequently visited wilderness areas: Olympic National Park. Port Angeles is also one of the few places in the world where you can snowboard and surf in the same day.

Port Angeles is an interesting city as well, with wineries, art galleries, and good camping (Elwha River) as well as hostel accommodations.

Photo: anneh632

Rapid City, South Dakota

Perhaps best known as the gateway to Mount Rushmore, Rapid City also sits at the doorstep of some incredible wild terrain. The Black Hills, home of the highest point east of the Rockies, rise just west of town, while the rugged backcountry and bizarre formations of Badlands National Park lie to the east.

Community Connection:

Good news! America’s wilderness is set to get a little wilder, as explained in the recent Pulse post “President Obama Signs Wilderness Bill.”

To learn more about any of the destinations featured above, why not ask a Matador expert?

Feature photo and photo above by Brian French.

As the last snowstorms leave their mark on the western Montana landscape, thoughts of rivers and boating begin to dominate my mind. Soon the enormous accumulation of snow nestled in the high country will find its way to area creeks and rivers, creating the opportunity for something truly remarkable – exploring the northern Rocky Mountains by boat.

I have been exploring the waters of western Montana for seven years now. I typically paddle well over 100 days in any given year and I try to commit to exploring at least a few new rivers or creeks every season.

I am a kayaker at heart, so I tend to prefer stretches that are a little more difficult in terms of whitewater. There is plenty of difficult water in Montana and plenty of opportunities for first descents. There are also plenty of opportunities for rafters, canoeists, touring kayakers, tubers, and pretty much all manner of folks who enjoy days on the water.

Whether you are looking for a full-on Class V nightmare with arduous portages or a crystal-clear, slow moving mountain stream with fishing that can only be described as “blue ribbon,” Montana has something for everyone.

Following are brief accounts of some of my favorite river trips in the state of Montana. I have included very basic logistics for planning trips on these stretches. For more detailed information on boating opportunities in Montana and the surrounding area, visit my blog, Montana eddy hop.

Have fun out there and remember: safety first!

Middle Fork of the Flathead River, Montana (Wilderness Section)

Photo by Brian French.

Originating in the heart of the Great Bear Wilderness, the Upper Middle Fork flows north through one of the most pristine canyons around and then forms the southern boundary of Glacier National Park.

Needless to say, the scenery on this river is unimaginable, and the water is perhaps the most crystalline blue water in the country. There is also great whitewater on this stretch, and difficulties vary dramatically with flows.

In order to run this stretch, you have to get yourself to Schaffer Meadows, either by plane, backpacking or horse packing. I highly recommend taking the flight from Kalispell with Red Eagle Aviation – although somewhat costly (about $350 per plane, enough for about two people plus gear), the folks who fly you in are super friendly and the flight is out of this world.

The flight to Middle Fork of the Flathead. Photo by Brian French.

You fly over the Flathead Valley, through a notch in the mountain crest, and then through the middle of the Great Bear Wilderness, looking south into the Bob Marshall Wilderness and north into Glacier.

When combined, these wilderness areas comprise the second largest roadless area in the lower 48 – take the flight, it’s worth every penny.

If you haven’t yet made this journey, you should really find a way to do so – the flight into Schaffer and float out on the Middle Fork is an ultra-classic Montana experience.

There’s no other feeling in the world like a multi-day float trip. Middle Fork of the Flathead. Photo by Brian French.

M.F. Flathead logistics: Class IV (IV- at low flows – below 6000 cfs at West Glacier, but solid IV at all others).

The water never really stops moving on this stretch, making it really fun and continuous. Rafters in your crew need to be pretty experienced as the upper part of the stretch can be very tight and technical.

The Spruce Park series contains the best and most difficult whitewater, and is towards the end of the trip. The put in is Schaffer Meadows, where the river is but a small mountain stream, and the standard takeout is Bear Creek access east of Essex on U.S. Highway 2.

You can also keep paddling past Bear Creek and take out at Essex in order to pass the Goat Lick – a popular gathering area for mountain goats.

Blackfoot River, Montana

Canoeing the Blackfoot. Photo by Brian French.

The Blackfoot River was the first stretch of water I really got to know in Montana. Made famous by Norman Maclean’s A River Runs Through It, this river is in Missoula’s back yard and is a wonderful place to spend a lazy day on the river.

I personally prefer to canoe the Blackfoot. It has a great, 18-mile Class II stretch of water that is perfectly suited for canoeing. Rafters, kayakers, and even tubers in the summer enjoy this stretch as well.

Just like the majority of other large rivers in Montana, there are numerous potential stretches to run on the Blackfoot, and the majority of the water is Class II or lower.

The fishing on the Blackfoot is outstanding, and I have encountered more wildlife on the Blackfoot than on any river anywhere. Bear, elk, mule and whitetail deer, moose, mountain lion, bald and golden eagle, numerous species of waterfowl, river otter, and countless other critters call the Blackfoot corridor home. Having this river so close is one of my favorite things about living in Missoula.

Blackfoot logistics: Class II (III- at high flows).

Multiple stretches are possible, but the standard put in is located at Roundup off Highway 200 northeast of Missoula. The take out is at Johnsrud Park, or you can easily take out at the Ledge just upstream to avoid the Johnsrud mayhem (take 200 towards Great Falls from Bonner east of Missoula, you can’t miss the Blackfoot corridor).

Roundup to Johnsrud is about 18 miles, or you can easily put in at the Whitaker Bridge to cut the distance in half and access most good whitewater. This river is well worth exploring.

Montana’s Northwest Corner Classic Duo: Kootenai River and Yaak River

Kootenai Falls. Photo by Brian French.

The northwest corner of Montana contains one of the most unique ecosystems and incredible watersheds in the state. The Yaak River corridor is a mini-rainforest that contains a remote canyon with one of the best stretches of whitewater around that rafters and kayakers both enjoy.

The Yaak flows into the Kootenai River, which is a beautiful large volume river that is slow-moving and mellow in all places but Kootenai Falls, an amazing canyon that contains arguably the rowdiest big water in the state of Montana.

With simple, roadside logistics and a wilderness feel, the Yaak River winds its way down a canyon filled with old-growth western cedars and lichen-covered rock formations. The water is continuous, fun Class III/IV with a couple solid Class IV rapids thrown in the mix.

This is a classic Montana adventure that is always worth the drive. You are almost guaranteed to have this stretch to yourself, and there is excellent camping at Yaak Falls – an impressive waterfall that is the put-in for the run.

Stomping at Kootenai Falls. Photo by Brian French.

The Kootenai Falls section of the Kootenai River is less than 30 minutes from the Yaak and is a stomping stretch of Class IV+ big-water that is basically a playboater’s pipedream.

Beginning with a very straightforward 18-foot waterfall, the Kootenai drops more than 100 vertical feet in the next mile, which is a gradient more common of low volume creeks than rivers with over 15,000 cubic feet per second of volume.

Superwave. Photo by Brian French.

This stretch has enormous waves and holes. Right after the falls is Superwave, probably the rowdiest wave in Montana that is truly huge and very intimidating. As is said in the Montana Surf guidebook, the Kootenai River is as close to the Zambezi as you’re going to get in Montana, and is an incredible boating experience.

Yaak River Logistics: Class IV-V.

To find the put-in, look for Yaak River Road west of the town of Troy on U.S. Highway 2. Follow this road up to Yaak Falls campground and put-in at the base of the Falls (you can run the Falls at lower flows, but you better stick your line or you’re slamming directly into a rock wall).

There is a parking area at the Highway 2 bridge over the Yaak, right above the confluence with the Kootenai.

Kootenai River Logistics: Class IV+ (big, pushy water).

Located on U.S. Highway 2 just east of the town of Troy. There is a nice rest area and trail to the river at Kootenai Falls (clearly marked), or paddlers may want to find the road that drops in about a half-mile to the east of the rest area that follows the tracks.

If you park here, it’s a much shorter walk to the river and you can put-in and take about three paddle strokes before getting launched over the Falls…good way to lively up yourself!

Once a paddler you can never look at water the same; you’re always scouting. Photo by Brian French.

Yellowstone River, Montana

The Yellowstone River originates in Yellowstone National Park and is America’s longest free-flowing river. The Yellowstone watershed contains runoff from the Beartooth Mountain Range, which contains Granite Peak, Montana’s highest point at over 12,000 feet.

The Yellowstone River flows through some of the most spectacular scenery in Big Sky country, and has some of the best fishing in the state as well.

From the Paradise Valley north of Gardiner to the confluence with the Missouri River, the Yellowstone has countless stretches of enjoyable water that draw rafters, drift-boaters, kayakers, and canoeists.

Putting on or taking out, a good river trip = joy. Photo by Brian French.

It is hard to imagine a more beautiful river than the Yellowstone – this is the old favorite of many water enthusiasts in the state and for good reason. It is hard to focus on anything but peace and serenity when floating past the cottonwoods and amongst the white pelicans of the Yellowstone River.

Yellowstone River logistics: Countless stretches are possible on this river.

Starting at Gardiner north of Yellowstone Park, the upper Yellowstone generally has more difficult whitewater than the lower reaches. There are two world-class canyons within Yellowstone Park, the Grand Canyon and the Black Canyon, that are fabled to be incredible runs and are unfortunately illegal because of Park Service policies prohibiting paddling in Yellowstone Park.

The middle and lower Yellowstone reaches, from around Livingston down, contain very scenic, mellow stretches with great fishing and amazing playboating features at higher flows. Rafters and drift boaters from all over the country flock to the Yellowstone during the warm months of the year.

Community Connection

Interested in learning more about Montana? Check in with our local Montana experts, including Montana Expert N. Christine Olson, who has put together an Angler’s Guide to Spring Fly Fishing in Montana.

Always been interested in learning how to paddle but never tried? Check out our Step by Step Guide to Getting into Whitewater Paddling. Learn how there is a whole new world out there when you see it from the river.

Photos: author

At 14,265 feet, Quandary is the highest peak in the Tenmile Range. There’s straightforward, all-season access via Highway 9, with the trail head just eight miles south of cushy Breckenridge.

Quandary’s wide, mild East Ridge slopes make for an excellent introduction to hiking above treeline in the summer and backcountry skiing when the snow falls.

Consequently, you’ll never have Quandary Peak to yourself. The weekday I climbed, I set out at a laughable 11:00 AM and passed other hikers—though not frequently, fairly consistently—even on the way down.

But regardless of whether reading this makes you want to book it to Breck or jot a mental note to stay clear, let me assure you the views from the top can be enjoyed by visitors of all levels of expertise.

A word of warning: approaching the summit from directions other than east yields technical slopes. These are prone to avalanches in winter and can be dangerous any time of year. Don’t underestimate.

Community Connection

Planning to hit up Quandary while the snow’s still on the ground? Before you go, brush up on our First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding and 8 Pieces of Gear to Keep You Warm and Safe in the Backcountry.

Photo: *Solar ikon*

Tokyo, Japan

Spring is practically defined by the cherry blossom. Many cities around the globe pride themselves on the beauty of their sakura trees—D.C., Vancouver, and Seoul all hold dedicated festivals—but why not head to the source?

Petals drift down in surreal snowfalls that cover the wide, black paths of Tokyo’s Imperial Palace complex. From here, you can walk along a carpet of softest pink to Yasukuni Shrine, where the combination of spiritual tranquility and seasonal beauty invites visitors to linger longer than they planned.

Of course, the capital is one among hundreds of venues for sakura sightseeing in Japan. The imperial charm of Kyoto’s parks and shrines provide an excellent backdrop for the blossoms, while Nagoya, Kamakura, and Osaka are also popular destinations.

When the flowers appear depends on the latitude, climate, and recent weather of each location. As of now, recommended 2009 viewing times for Tokyo and Kyoto run from the end of March through the first week in April.

Schedules for these and other regions can be found here.

Photo: Zest-pk

Lisse, Holland

The Dutch tulip is another spring specimen of world-class renown.

Amsterdam’s floating flower market of Bloemenmarkt is good for a splash of fragrance and color in any season, and flower history buffs can tour the city’s tulip museum.

But it’s Lisse, a town 40 kilometers southwest of Amsterdam and well-served by public transport, that’s home to the world’s largest flower garden, the Keukenhof.

Open from March 19 to May 21, 2009, the vast grounds of the Keukenhof feature over 7 million flower bulbs, many of them tulips. In addition, boat tours, workshops, and bicycle rentals are available, ensuring an overdose of springtime fun.

The Lake District, England

Photo: ginnerobot

A cradle of bucolic scenery year round, England’s Lake District reveals something special each spring, when daffodils erupt across the hills and dales.

This is where Wordsworth “wandered lonely as a cloud.” If you’re seeking poetic inspiration, or just a pleasant stroll through the golden daffodils, fit Lake District National Park into your itinerary.

The town of Ambleside hosts its Daffodil and Spring Flower Show this March 28 and 29, but the blooms will be going off throughout April as well.

Chappell Hill, TX, USA

Photo: robholland

There’s a species of lupine so beloved by Texans that they named it their state flower back in 1901. Each spring, the bluebonnet carpets the plains and Hill Country of eastern and central Texas.

These blossoms are at their peak in April, and the Chappell Hill Bluebonnet Festival is held mid-month accordingly. Ask the locals and they’ll be happy to tell you this is the only “official” bluebonnet festival in Texas.

Yet, it’s just as easy to spot blue-hued meadows along state highways, thanks to a wildflower seeding project prompted by former First Lady, Lady Bird Johnson.

If the flowers on their own aren’t enough for you, consider an outing along the Texas Bluebonnet Wine Trail. This network of East Texas roads traverses prime bluebonnet country while connecting you to more than half a dozen local wineries.

Photo: g-hat

Perth, Australia

Travel budgets are tight these days. If you simply can’t manage a trip to watch the buds bloom this spring, don’t despair. Keep in mind—one hemisphere’s summer is another’s winter.

When September rolls around, head to Western Australia for a second-chance spring.

Perth is the place to be, where the annual Kings Park Festival lasts all month. Live music, art installations, and cultural performances add to the attraction of the flowers blooming throughout the park and botanical gardens.

For the flower obsessed (there’s one in every group), the tourism board of Western Australia suggests a three-day itinerary heading north out of Perth. Thousands of species bloom in this region of the country, making it the ideal destination for enjoying spring Down Under.

Community Connection

Do you suffer a touch of flora-mania? What are your favorite places to take in spring blooms? Let us know in the comments.

Sakura got a mention in our 8 Cities That Burn Through Your Money, while Amsterdam’s Bloemenmarkt landed among the Top 10 Free Things to Do in Europe. Check out what else made these lists!

Photo: SilentObserver

Whistler Mountain in British Columbia, Canada was named after the whistling sounds made by the marmots who inhabit its slopes. They use this call to warn their fellow brethren of impending danger.

Originally called London Mountain due to the regularly occurring fog and rain, the moniker was changed in 1965 as a promotion to attract more visitors. Good call.

If you’re keen to see these cute, furry animals, visit in the summer and take a walk on one of the numerous hiking trails. You’re bound to spot some marmots darting over the rocks and, if you listen carefully enough, you might just hear how Whistler got its name.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Marmots not turning your crank? How about Black Bears? For a chance to see these and other wildlife in Whistler, take an eco-tour.

1. Mt. Kenya National Park

Home to Africa’s second-highest peak (at just over 17,000 feet), Mt. Kenya National Park is the only place in the world where you can find glaciers on the equator.

Hire a guide and some porters (I climbed with Summit Ventures) and spend 4-7 days exploring one of nature’s most diverse ecosystems. Watch the spectacular sunrise from the peak: on a clear day you can see the peaks of Kilimanjaro and Mt. Meru (Africa’s 3rd highest) in neighboring Tanzania.

Buffalo, lions, leopards, giraffes, and elephants are some of the big game to spot.

Photo by Mara 1

2. Hell’s Gate National Park

Hell’s Gate is one of the only parks in Kenya you can walk or bike through. No walls or car doors separate you from the wild here, and I’ll tell you from experience that there’s nothing like riding a bike a few yards from a mama giraffe galloping with her infant in tow.

The park sits on top of a geothermal spring, and if you hike down into Hell’s Gate Gorge you can boil an egg in the steaming pools that seep from the winding sandstone walls. Stay at Fisherman’s Camp on Lake Naivasha (you can rent bikes here) and watch the hippos meander ashore at dusk, feet from where your tent is pitched.

3. Malindi National Marine Park

Snorkel or scuba with tropical fish and dolphins in the Indian Ocean, among shipwrecks and coral reefs. From October to March, hire a dhow for the afternoon (you can haggle it down to 10,000Ksh for up to 10 people) and go for a swim with the whale shark, the world’s largest living fish species.

4. Masai Mara National Reserve

Destinations

Community Connection to Kenya

In spite of the high tourist traffic, the Masai Mara is still well worth the trip. The Kenyan extension of the Serengeti, Masai Mara offers probably the highest concentration and diversity in big game in East Africa.

Visit between July and October and you stand a good chance to see one of the “7 Wonders of the World,” the annual wildebeest migration across the croc- and hippo-infested Mara River — though be warned that tourist traffic is highest this time of year.

The Big Five– lion, buffalo, elephant, leopard, and black rhino– are all found here, as well as thousands of zebra and wildebeest, prime game for the predators of the park.

5. Lake Nakuru National Park

In perhaps the “greatest bird spectacle on earth,” up to 2 million pink flamingos gather in the shallow waters surrounding the lake.

Photo by Lip Kee

The view from Baboon Cliffs is spectacular, though watch out for the cliffs’ namesake– the baboons aren’t shy, and will steal your lunch right out of your hand.

The park is also home to over 400 migratory bird species, as well as one of the world’s largest population of white and black rhinos. You’re virtually guaranteed a close-up view of the prehistoric beasts. If you come in September you can sign up for Cycle with the Rhinos, a bike race through the park.

6. Nairobi National Park

Though driving through the actual park may not yield the same number of big game sightings you’ll find elsewhere, it is the only natural game protection area neighboring a city. You can see lions, elephants, buffalo, and giraffe against the backdrop of Nairobi’s cosmopolitan skyline.

Although not one of Kenya’s best parks in its own right, I’ve listed this park for two main reasons:

• At the Nairobi Education Centre & Animal Orphanage (not to be confused with Sheldrick’s Elephant Orphanage– see #2), the wardens will let you enter the pen of three full-grown orphaned cheetahs. Like giant house cats, the cheetahs will let you hug and pet them while they purr like roaring engines. It’s also not publicized; you have to request, sometimes beg, to be let in.
• The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust rescues elephants orphaned by poachers, and nurses them back to health for re-release into the wild. While they are staying at the Trust, though, you can visit the orphanage and talk with the wardens while the infant and teen elephants bump up against you and play in the mud. Once you’re hooked, you can adopt an elephant for $50 USD and go back for private visits. The Trust also rescues orphaned black rhinos. Watch out for warthogs if you come on foot– they are ubiquitous, and have a nasty temper.

Photo by Paul Mannix

As of 2007 you have to pay the Nairobi National Park entrance fee in order to visit, so it’s best combined with a game drive through the park. The Lang’ata Giraffe Center is also nearby, where you can feed giraffe by hand (or mouth!) from a raised viewing platform.

For more information, including entry fees, visit the Kenya Wildlife Service website.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Are you planning a trip to Africa? Check out Matador’s Africa destination experts here.

Photo: Christian Nawroth

So much for legacies. Josef Naus, a Bavarian surveyor thought to be the first to climb Germany’s tallest peak in 1820, had the rug pulled out from under him a few years ago when it became evident that locals had actually scaled the Zugspitze, a mountain that straddles the Austria-Germany border, 50 years before him.

Nowadays, reaching the top at 2962 meters above sea level is much easier. You have a few choices: a cog railway from the German tourist town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, or cable cars from the base–one on the Austrian side and one on the German side.

Why not hike it?

Of course, if you want the bragging rights you’d best be climbing it on your own over one or two days. There are numerous routes to the top, a couple on which you can plan an overnight stay in an alpine hut.

Visitors looking for European ski bunnies should schedule in a trip to the Zugspitzplatt in the wintertime, the highest ski resort in Germany.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Inspired to conquer a massive mountain? Check out these eight that David DeFranza says “yes, you can!”

1. Tuvalu

Photo above by mrlins

This Polynesian island nation is only 10 square miles and 4.5 meters above sea level… at its highest point. Tuvalu is the fourth smallest country in the world and is slowly disappearing into the Pacific Ocean. It is poised to be one of the first nations to experience the effects of sea level rise caused by climate change- a real-life Atlantis in the making.

2. The Columbia Glacier, Alaska

Photo above by Wikimedia Commons

The Columbia Glacier in Alaska’s Prince William Sound is one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world. It has been estimated that this 54 km wide chunk of ice may well be transformed into a large fjord within 50 years and perhaps in less than a decade.

3. Rainforests of Papua New Guinea

Photo above by ajvhan

Papua New Guinea is home to the world’s third largest rainforest, with many microclimates and endemic species. Unfortunately, this area is being logged and cleared with little regard for the environmental consequences. Satellite imagery reveals destruction on such a large scale that within 12 years nearly all accessible forest is predicted to be destroyed or degraded.

4. Indo-Pacific Coral Reef

Photo above by kimberlyfaye

The Indo-Pacific contains 75% of the world’s coral reefs and has the greatest coral diversity in the world. An estimated 600 square miles of reef has been disappearing per year since the late 1960s, due to various causes, including deforestation and climate change. See it now before it’s gone.

5.The Maldive Islands

Photo above by Wikimedia Commons

A group of atolls in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives hold the record for being the lowest country, averaging just 1.5 meters above sea level. They are being threatened as the sea level continues to rise as a result of global warming, and may be totally submerged within 50 years.

6. Himalayan Glaciers

Photo above by ilkerender

These glaciers crown the highest mountain range in the world, and are the source of the seven largest rivers in Asia. If you’ve been gearing up to plan your Himalayan glacier trek, you might want to go soon: if the present rate of melting continues, a large number of them may disappear by 2035.

7. Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail

Photo above by kudumomo

The remains of this ancient Incan city are one of the most beautiful and enigmatic sites in the world. The ruins are rapidly being worn down by the thousands of tourists treading across its stones, and this unbridled growth in tourism is irrevocably damaging the site- including the Inca Trail which leads to Machu Picchu itself.

8. The Pyramids of Giza

Photo above by Wikimedia Commons

The Pyramids of Giza and the Great Sphinx are some of the greatest marvels of ancient Egyptian architecture. Yet, unrestricted development and urban sprawl from nearby Cairo threaten the ancient pyramids and the Great Sphinx. Air pollution eats away at the magnificent structures, and sewage from adjacent slums weakens the plateau upon which they stand.

9. Amazon Rainforest

Photo above by vaka0627

The Amazon rainforest alone produces more than 40% of the world’s oxygen and is the largest and most species-rich, diverse ecosystem on earth. It is estimated that the Amazon is vanishing at a rate of 20,000 square miles per year. If nothing is done, the entire Amazon could well be gone within 50 years.

Community Connection

The question remains: How can we visit these places without contributing to the very factors that accelerate their destruction? A good starting point is to find volunteer programs that align you with locals in everything from habitat restoration to education. Another consideration: choose alternatives to flying.

Feature photo by Uninen. Photo above by nattu.

An archipelago is an “expanse of water with many scattered islands,” or a cluster of islands, typically found in the open sea. Although generally the result of volcanic activity, archipelagos are also shaped by other forces of nature, including erosion and rising or falling sea tables; as dynamic land masses, archipelagos tend to offer dramatic scenery.

Here are some of the most amazing examples worldwide:

Tierra del Fuego

Photo by longhorndave.

At the southern end of South America, the last echoes of the Andes Mountains collapse into the sea. Tierra del Fuego, the Land of Fire, is renowned for its snowy peaks rising from turbulent waters above Antarctica. The Patagonian forests are complex and mystical with huge cypress trees and pudu-pudu, a deer that’s only 20 inches tall.

Tristan da Cunha

Photo by brunosan.

The volcanic rocks of Tristan da Cunha are the most remote scraps of land on Earth. The closest land is the island of Saint Helena, where Napoleon was exiled, and that’s still 1,500 miles away. Africa and South America are both 2,000 miles away.

A handful of flightless birds seen nowhere else in the world keep the 250 inhabitants of Tristan da Cunha company while stalwart British fishermen keep a wary eye on the volcano that destroyed their only settlement 70 years ago.

The landscape of the islands is austere. While there are no glaciers, the bare ground of Gough Island—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—seems surreal. What lies behind the high cliffs of the aptly named Inaccessible Island?

The Thousand Islands

Photo by Alberto OG.

In the Saint Lawrence River between New York State and Canada, the Thousand Islands have long been home to the rich and famous; in fact, many of the islands are privately owned. The curiosities inhabitants have left behind make the 1,800+ islands of the archipelago as strange as they are beautiful.

Heart Island supports an actual castle with towers, a yacht house, and a stained glass dome. The crumbling ruins of a Revolution-era fort adorn one island; Yale University’s secret society, Skull and Bones, owns another.

Other islands are so tiny that they can barely support a single house, though all of the islands must be above water 365 days a year and must support at least two trees to be considered part of this archipelago.

Svalbard

Photo by gogoolplex.

Svalbard, meaning “cold edge,” describes a group of islands found halfway between Norway and the North Pole. Though geographically large, the Svalbard has only 2,500 permanent inhabitants.

Local law requires residents and visitors alike to carry hunting rifles outside the settlements at all times—a last-resort defense against the 500 polar bears that roam the islands. Svalbard has no trees, but during the four months of constant daylight, Arctic wildflowers bloom everywhere.

Truly entrepreneurial spirits should know that citizens of countries signatory to the Svalbard Treaty may go to Svalbard without a visa and legally open their own coal mine.

The Artificial Islands

Photo by Pete the painter.

The Dubai harbor has more than doubled its size in five years; massive dredging has created very large and expensive artificial islands off the coast of the city-state whose exploits approach mythic proportions.

Between the three Palm Islands, the vast artificial Waterfront, and the massive archipelago called The World, Dubai’s new land will house over 3 million people when done. The islands already look like nothing else in the world.

The artificial islands are resorts, their beauty entirely artificial and entirely commercial. Whether it is a tremendous waste of resources, or greedy profiteering, or mere vain showmanship, Dubai has done the impossible and made land where there was none.

The Dodecanese

Photo by Michelos.

Many of the world’s most beautiful archipelagos gained their renown for pristine beaches, clear oceans, or stunning terrain. The famous Dodecanese, off the southwest coast of Turkey, have all of these in abundance, but they also bear the stunning marks of 3,000 years of advanced culture.

The islands have been ruled by the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Ottomans, Italians, and — finally — by the Greeks again, and all of these cultures have left their mark with spectacular ruins and structures.

The Colossus of Rhodes, a Wonder of the World, briefly stood guard near (or, more whimsically, over) the most famous island’s harbor. John of Patmos allegedly received the visions which became the Book of Revelation on Patmos. The Knights Hospitaller built a massive Crusader fortress on Rhodes, and churches abound.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Are you a lover of under-visited, isolated islands? Check out Matador contributing editor Tim Patterson’s picks for the Top 6 Most Enchanting Undeveloped Islands in the World. Or, read up on Japan’s often overlooked south, in Shima to Shima: Southern Islands of Japan.

Photo above by bobtravis

While some of the world’s highest and most dangerous mountains lie in the Himalaya, Andes, Karakorum, and other high ranges, climbers hoping for big adventure need look no further than the United States.

Here are six American mountains to climb for big adventure:

1. Mount Washington, NH

New Hampshire’s highest point may only reach an elevation of 6,288 feet, but it is home to some of the world’s worst weather. In fact, the highest wind gust ever recorded on Earth’s surface, an incredible 231 mph blast, occurred on the summit of Mount Washington.

Its close proximity to the coast makes Mount Washington’s weather changeable and unpredictable. This is especially true in the winter, when temperatures frequently approach -40 degrees Fahrenheit and even exceed -100 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chill.

In both winter and summer, climbers can choose to reach the summit via a strenuous hike or a technical alpine route. If you visit on one of the 110 average days per year in which wind gusts exceed hurricane force levels, an adventure is guaranteed.

You can read more about climbing Mount Washington in the Boston Globe and the Mount Washington Observatory forums.

Photo above by masterjack.roger

2. Mount Katahdin, ME

At 5,267 feet, Mount Katahdin, the highest mountain in Maine, is lower than Mount Washington. Still, the airy views from the “Knife Edge” trail, which narrows to only two feet in width in some places and is flanked by thousand foot drops on either side, makes climbing Katahdin one of the most unique experiences in the Eastern United States.

For more information on the various routes up Katahdin, check out the Katahdin Regional Wiki.

Photo above by mandj98

3. Mount Rainier, WA

14,411 foot-high Mount Rainier is visible from Seattle, but climbing it is no easy undertaking. It requires travel on the largest glacier in the Lower 48 and advanced technical knowledge.

Still, there is probably no better place in America to get a “big mountain” experience with such a short approach.

For more information on climbing Mount Rainier, try the National Park Service trail descriptions or the Summit Post.

Photo above by david.evenson

4. Longs Peak, CO

The only “fourteener” in Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak is an iconic mountain and considered to be the most difficult 3rd class fourteener in Colorado.

Though it’s officially non-technical in the summer, the popular Keyhole Route still offers steep rock scrambles and lots of exposure. When combined with the intense physical demands of the route, these features make Longs Peak an excellent objective for those looking for a mountain adventure.

If you want to plan an ascent of Longs Peak, the best first place to go is Paul Nesbit’s Longs Peak: Its Story and a Climbing Guide.

Photo above by glennwilliamspdx

5. Mount Shasta, CA

Considered one of the best treks in California, Mount Shasta is also one of America’s most adventurous mountain destinations. Popular routes to the 14,179 foot summit rise more that 7,000 feet from the trailhead and traverse rock moraine, snowfields, and glacial features.

For a classic account of adventure on Mount Shasta, read John Muir’s essay “Snow-storm on Mount Shasta.”

Photo above by exfordy

6. Mount Haleakala, HI

Forming more than 75% of the island of Maui, Haleakala is one of the best places to explore Hawaii’s unique volcanic landscape.

Though the summit is accessible by road and home to astrological observatories, hiking through the national park puts you in touch with the austere and dramatic terrain and provides an opportunity to get close to an active volcano.

Like Mount Kea, Haleakala is considered a sacred mountain by native Hawaiians. Also like Mount Kea, its summit is considered one of the best places on earth for viewing the cosmos.

Spending the night on Mount Haleakala is the perfect opportunity to sit back in a sleeping bag, sip some tea, and dream of all the adventures waiting for you under that star-studded mantle.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more big-time adventures, check out the Top 15 Adventure Towns Worldwide, or learn about 7 Classic Adventure Spots in Asia.

Photo by Josh Sommers. Feature photo by Larry Miller.

Covering up to 25,000 square miles of Californian terrain, the Mojave and the Colorado deserts present a rich diversity in landscape, ecology, and climate, and provide an important preservation of natural and human history. The following are some of the most spectacular of the national and state parks.

Joshua Tree National Park

Popular for its Joshua tree forests and climbable hills of bare boulders, Joshua Tree National Park has a uniquely alien and prehistoric landscape.

Slow growers, Joshua trees can live up to several hundred years with some making it to a thousand. Photo by Tobias.

Arch Rock. Photo by Yogi.

Sometimes after particularly wet winters desert dandelions grow. Photo by Dawn Endico.

Death Valley National Park

Its rich geologic and cultural history, and extreme environment and isolation (having some of the clearest skies in North America for stargazing) make Death Valley an attractive destination for nature lovers.

A sliding rock making its way across Racetrack Playa. Photo by Mike.

Badwater, the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level. Photo by PhillipC.

Zabriskie Point. Photo by Larry Miller.

Red Rock Canyon State Park

The result of erosion exposing the colorful sandstone stratas and creating hoodoos and other dramatic rock formations, Red Rock Canyon State Park has served as the backdrop of many films, including Jurassic Park.

Red cliffs such as these have helped geologists and paleontologists understand the region’s history for the past 500 million years. Photo by Tobin.

Desert tortoises are endemic to the western part of North America. Photo by Chris Selvig.

Photo by Tom Hilton.

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

The largest state park in California and the second largest in the continental United States, the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park offers a varied sample of the Colorado Desert with broad vistas, dry river beds, and diverse ecology, such as palm groves, iguanas, foxes, golden eagles, roadrunners, and rattlesnakes.

The Borrego Badlands. Photo by Jurek Durczak.

Desert flora looks on as the desert sunrise paints a neon view. Photo by Florian Boyd.

Photo by Florian Boyd.

Mojave National Preserve

Seemingly barren compared to other Californian deserts, many make their way to this newly designated park for its booming sand dunes, volcanic formations, and Joshua tree forests.

Kelso Dunes, famous for “singing” or creating a low rumble when one slides down from the top. Photo by Lin Mei.

Photo by Chuck Abbe.

A chuckwalla soaks in some desert sun. Photo by Chris Selvig.

Photo above by darkroomillusions

There’s no slower, more connected way to travel than trekking. Overcoming obstacles binds walkers together and mobile trail communities flourish. Here are some of the most spectacular treks from around the world.

Kruger National Park — South Africa

Several trails weave through the 20,000 km Kruger National Park in the northeast of South Africa. Combine big cats with giant reptiles and you’ll understand why hiking is tightly controlled. Walking set routes with gun-toting guides will allow you relative safety.

Photo above by jhull

Mt. Kenya National Park — Kenya

As Africa’s second highest peak, Mt. Kenya might be better known as a technical climbing destination. But eight hiking trails also run through the park, each with caretakers and huts. No climbing is required.

Four of the eight walks are staffed and accessible, but the remaining four require special permission from the Kenya Wildlife Service. This is a chance to move from fertile slopes through forest into the rare African alpine environment, then watch the sun rise over Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Photo above by malfageme

Camino de Santiago de Compostela

If there’s one European walk to wander, it’s the rolling Way of St. James, a.k.a. “the Camino.” Pilgrims walk from wherever they want, finishing in Catholicism’s third most holy city (and scoring a free meal in the back of the five-star Parador Restaurant). The most popular route starts in the French Pyrenees, progressing through Pamplona, Burgos, and Lyon, plus countless friendly Spanish villages. Learn 4 Lessons from the Camino.

Photo above by Phillie Casablanca

Inca Trail – Peru

Macchu Pichu is an iconic and powerful image of South America and the once-powerful Inca Empire. What better way to discover it than approaching on a multi-day hike through forest valleys and steep ascents?

Once carefully guarded by Inca checkpoints, the path is now protected by government officials who check passports to ensure regulation numbers are kept and the environment isn’t further endangered. Like many of these treks, it’s imperative to book in advance. If you miss out or are looking for a lesser known alternative, try the Salkantay trail instead.

Photo above by Hiro008

Torres del Paine National Park — Chile

Torres del Paine is home to spectacular multi-day walks through alpine terrain, including the popular four-day “W” track and 9 day circle route. The Patagonia webcam project will have you strapping your boots on before you know what hit you.

Photo above by i am indisposed

Pacific Crest Trail — Mexico, USA, Canada

Approximately 300 hikers a year attempt to through-hike this massive trek, starting in Mexico and hitting Canada before the winter snows make progress impossible. Countless more attempt anything from a day walk to several weeks of camping through harsh desert and snow-flaked mountains. Thank God for those trail angels!

Photo above by Lawlesco

Appalachian Trail — USA

Running some 2,000 miles through 11 states, the Appalachian trail traverses not only the last pockets of wilderness in the Eastern US, but many historic sites and towns along the way. Shelters and a well-developed infrastructure exist along the entire route.

Most surprising is the entire subculture of AT through hikers that spills over into the surrounding towns. Hostels, restaurants, locals–oftentimes it seems like your through-hike (or section hike) is a ticket to this ongoing party.

Photo above by Lucy Crabapple

Annapurna Sanctuary — Nepal

Like most popular routes in Nepal, the Annapurna Sanctuary is a “teahouse trek.” Trails pass through villages, each with its own lodging. Camping gear like heavy sleeping bags, tents, and cook stoves are not required on this trail. As a result, trekkers can get by with fairly light loads. Check here for a complete guide.

Photo above by jenniferphoon

Mt. Fuji — Japan

Forget the expat slogan “Don’t climb Mt. Fuji.” There’s nothing more iconic than watching the sun rise from its slopes, and thousands attempt it each year. It’s not a difficult walk. Visible from parts of Tokyo, Mt. Fuji almost seems to be taunting travelers, challenging them to escape the neon jungle.

Photo above by hadriaswad

Gunung Tahan – Malaysia

When I return to Malaysia, walking Gunung Tahan is high on my list. Malaysia’s highest mountain sits snugly in a forest-clad national park and is surrounded by several trails. The walk to the top takes approximately five days, but is considered the toughest trek in the region with steep climbs and tropical temperatures taking their toll on walkers.

Photo above by Timmy Toucan

Milford Track – New Zealand

You can’t round up the world’s best treks without mentioning the Milford Track deep in the South Island of New Zealand. Described as the finest walk in the world, this strictly-controlled hike is best done in the southern summer as winter rains make it dangerous to attempt.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Keen on doing some serious walking? Check out a few of Matador’s trekking guides: Trekking Torres del Paine, Trekking the Annapurna Sanctuary, Sarawak: Trekking in the Kelabit Highlands or How To Trek the Inca Trail.

GOODS:

Feature photo by Tony. Above photo by Nidcha Injai.

From the early mountaineers who came to the Himalayas, travelers and adventurers have always sought out new places to explore in Asia. The following roundup outlines some of the recent Asian “classics” for ideas and inspiration on your next trip.

1. Paddling / Rafting on the Pai River, Thailand

The Pai River flows 62 miles through various class IV gorges and long stretches of flatwater through a remote, wilderness section of the Mae Hong Son province in Thailand. Season runs June – January. Mulit-day trips are run out of Pai.

2. Kite-surfing on the Filipino Island of Boracay

Bulabog Lagoon stretching over three bays, with an extended shallow and consistent cross-shore winds perfect for both kite-surfing. Various kite-surfing schools offer courses.

Photo by David Eng.

3. Mountain Trekking in Nepal

Among the numerous trekking routes in Nepal, the most popular is the Annapurna Base Camp Trail. Like most popular routes in Nepal, the Annapurna Sanctuary is a “teahouse trek.” Trails pass through villages, each with its own lodging.

4. Caving and Wildlife Viewing in Borneo

The site of continued international caving expeditions, Gunung Mulu National Park contains over 300 km of mapped caves system, including the largest single cave chamber in the world. It has a well established infrastructure and daily tours.

5. Surfing in Okinawa, Japan

Okinawa is well-known among surfers. The ‘Hawaii of the East’ is blessed with white sandy beaches, huge waves, and an established surf culture. You get to enjoy Japanese culture without the hectic rush of Tokyo or other big cities.

The best waves are found at the North of Nago, but beware of the southern end of the harbor, but this is a hollow reef break, not for novice surfers.

Photo by Oscar López.

6. Sandboarding at Mui Ne, Northern Vietnam

Sunrise is a good time to head up into the White Sand dunes. One of the most fun ways to spend a couple hours exploring the dunes: sandboarding. You can rent a board for 100,000 Dong.

7. Trekking and Climbing in Bhutan

With some of the world’s most spectacular landscapes and trekking routes, and a government that measures the country’s progress in GNH, or Gross National Happiness, Bhutan is good to go. Remember that independent traveling is not allowed by the Bhutanese government; you need to arrange your trip through a local travel agency.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Looking for more in depth guides on the places mentioned above?

Check out this Comprehensive guide to trekking Bhutan. Want to check out surf in Japan Hit up our crew here.

If you’re just getting started in adventure sports, check out David Miller’s guide to paddling or N. Chrystine Olson’s beginner’s guide to telemark skiing.

Photo above by Graham King

Whether you seek wilderness adventure, immersion in a unique culture, or a spiritual journey, a trek through Bhutan’s mountains puts you in the heart of this little-known Himalayan Kingdom.

Here are some considerations for first-time trekkers:

The Basics

Trekking in Bhutan involves a multi-day trip, arranged like a camping expedition. This is due to government guidelines and because many areas are remote, devoid of accommodations. It is not uncommon to walk for several days before encountering a village.

A typical day consists of 5 to 7 hours of walking among some of the world’s most pristine natural surroundings, including subtropical jungles, alpine highlands, and snow-capped peaks.

You will be accompanied by a licensed Bhutanese guide, cook, and mules or yaks that carry tents, sleeping bags, cooking equipment, food and other supplies.

In a nation steeped in Mahayana Buddhist traditions, the mountains are sacrosanct, housing deities. As such, you cannot scale peaks higher than 6,000 meters. At 7,570 meters, Gangkhar Puensum, the highest mountain in Bhutan, remains the highest unclimbed peak in the world.

While treks range from easy to strenuous, it helps to be moderately fit. Daily altitude gain is relatively high, so be aware of how best to acclimate your body.

Photo above by jmhullot

When to Go

The best high altitude trekking seasons are in late April, when colorful bursts of wildflowers dot the landscape, or during the pleasant, clear days of October.

Short treks at lower elevations are possible during most months. You can also time your visit to coincide with one of Bhutan’s colorful festivals, getting a glimpse inside the dzongs, or fortress-monasteries, that serve as administrative, religious, and social centers.

Climate varies significantly by region. The north, bordering Tibet, is perennially covered with snow. The central regions enjoy four distinct seasons similar to those of Western Europe, and the subtropical south is hot and humid. Monsoon rains pelt the country from June to September.

Photo above by jmhullot

The Treks

There are more than a dozen treks, ranging in difficulty. Some combine scenery and culture, passing dense pine and oak forests on the mountainside; whitewashed dzongs overlooking valleys; and chortens, squat monuments housing sacred Buddhist relics.

Druk Path is a week-long trek that crosses mountains connecting the valleys of Paro and Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital. The sparsely populated route winds around freshwater lakes, and if your timing is right, dozens of varieties of scented rhododendron bloom in late spring.

Photo above by babasteve

Bumthang Cultural and Gangtey Nature treks are shorter, lasting from two to four days. Gangtey passes through isolated valleys, including the winter home of rare black-necked cranes.

Of the thousand or so trekkers who visit each year, most head for Jhomolhari, the third highest peak in Bhutan and “abode of the Goddess Jhomo.” Following the river, the trek offers some of the best mountain scenery, including highland villages, yak pastures, and a base camp embedded in natural beauty.

Taking two weeks, the Jhomolhari – Laya – Gasa trek is an extension of the above. It weaves through the high Himalayas, leaving the Jhomolhari trail and heading east along the Tibetan border to Laya, and then south to Gasa and its hot springs.

Lunana Snowman is one of the hardest high altitude treks, involving walking and living in remote areas beneath the peaks of 6 mountains, each over 7,000 meters high. The mystical trail crosses nine passes, taking you by villages and nomad groups, and through forests of blue pine, juniper and rhododendron.

Plan Ahead

You cannot visit Bhutan on a whim as the government controls the number of travelers allowed into the country each year. Arrangements must be made through registered Bhutanese tour operators beforehand, and you have the choice of customizing your own trip or joining a pre-planned tour.

Each visitor is required to pay a fee of US $200 per day. This sounds steep, but it includes taxes, accommodations, meals, a licensed guide, camping equipment and haulage for treks. This fee applies across the board, whether or not you go trekking.

The easiest way to get to Bhutan is by air. Druk Air, the national airline, is the only carrier that serves Paro Airport, offering flights from Bangkok, Kathmandu, Delhi and several other South Asian cities.

There are plenty of online resources. For starters, check out Matador editor Tim Patterson’s excellent guide to, and impressions of, Bhutan.

Photo above by Graham King

The Tourism Council of Bhutan also provides handy information, including a list of tour operators (many of whom have their own websites), local news and events, approved treks, and the latest on travel regulations.

And finally, get a copy of seasoned trekker Bart Jordans’s Bhutan: A Trekker’s Guide , including insights on numerous trails, a comprehensive trek grading system, and information on trekking for families with children.

GOODS

From the Atacama Desert of northern Chile–some parts of which have not received rain in 200 or more years– to the massive glaciers of the south, where visitors are likely to experience weather that takes them through four seasons in a single day, Chile delivers on its promise.

Here are 8 natural wonders that should move Chile to the top of your trip list:

Photos: Julie Schwietert (Matador Travel)

1. The sand dunes of the Atacama Desert.

Photo: clearlycool (Flickr creative commons)

2. The massive glaciers of Tierra del Fuego.

Photo: angela7dreams (Flickr creative commons)

3. The 6000 ft. tall granite walls of Torres del Paine.

Photo: winkyintheuk (Flickr creative commons)

4. The penguins of Punta de Arenas.

Photo: Steve Deger (Flickr creative commons)

5. The active Volcán Villarica, just outside of Pucón.

Photo: philliecasablanca (Flickr creative commons)

6. The surreal world of the Atacama Desert.

Photo: magical-world (Flickr creative commons)

7. The pristine beaches of Easter Island.

Photo: magical-world (Flickr creative commons)

8. The quiet bays of Chiloe.

Photo: velazsolano (Flickr creative commons)

Photo: SFmatador (Flickr creative commons)

Community Connection: Have you been to Chile? Thinking about going? Share your favorite natural wonders or questions about Chile below. Read Matador member VickiElizabeth’s blog, “10 Things I Have Learned in Chile.” Check out Matador organization Patagonia Volunteer, which offers numerous opportunities for travelers to volunteer in the Southern Cone.

Feature photo by SparkyLeigh. Photo above by padraic woods.

Some mountains have attained legendary status for their danger and difficulty. Others simply dominate the landscape, commanding the attention of all who pass by. Still other mountains are revered as sacred.

Whether thought to be the homes of gods or the sites of important historical events, these sacred mountains continue to draw pilgrims who often endure extreme hardships to show their devotion.

Even if you are not a member of the faithful, these sacred mountains are unique destinations for your own pilgrimage.

Photo by TCL 1961.

Mount Kailash

Few mountains are as distinctive as Mount Kailash. Rising prominently above the Tibetan Plateau, Kailash is the source of four of Asia’s biggest rivers and is considered sacred by four religions: Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Bon.

Located in western Tibet, Kailash is not the easiest peak to get to; a trip requires numerous permits and either a hired driver or agonizingly slow hitchhiking. Still, joining the thousands of pilgrims who travel to the mountain and make the 32 mile circumnavigation is an incredible experience well worth the effort.

Photo by feligoo.

Mount Sinai

In the Bible, God hands the law to Moses, who is charged with explaining it to the wandering Israelites, on the summit of Mount Sinai. Though the exact location is a matter of heated debate, many have traditionally thought the site to be either Mount Serbal, Mount Catherine, or Mount Sinai itself.

All are relatively close to one another and can be climbed via various hiking trails. Certainly, this would be an interesting, albeit hot, hike for anyone interested in biblical history.

Photo by Flickmor.

Adam’s Peak

Located in central Sri Lanka, Adam’s Peak is considered sacred by Hindus, Buddhists, and Muslims, but is also a minor pilgrimage site for Christians and Jews.

The draw is not the peak itself but an imprint in the summit variously believed to be the footprint of Buddha, Shiva, Adam, and Saint Thomas. The pilgrimage season reaches its peak in April and most ascents take place at night, allowing for sunrise views from the summit.

Photo by backpackphotography.

Devil’s Tower

Situated in the plains of northeastern Wyoming, the monolithic Devil’s Tower looms on the horizon, growing larger as visitors approach. Once at the base, the igneous columns sweep upwards, curving towards the crisp, western sky.

The tower is considered sacred by many Native American tribes, including the Lakota Sioux, Cheyenne and Kiowa. Ceremonies are held in the month of June, celebrating the Tower, during which time climbing is discouraged. If you want to climb to the summit, come prepared with technical gear and expertise as there are no walkable routes.

Photo by Peter Nijenhuis.

Uluru

Commonly called Ayers Rock, Uluru is a large rock formation in central Australia. Technically not a mountain, Uluru consists of the hard, rocky remains of a larger mountain that has eroded away. However, any visitor will tell you that the formation commands the landscape just as a mountain would.

Uluru is sacred to the Aboriginal people who live in the area. It is possible to climb Uluru, via a chain-assisted trail, but climbing is discouraged by Aboriginal people. Enjoying the dramatic colors of the formation at sunset, however, is recommended by everyone.

Photo by Antre.

Mauna Kea

At 13,796 feet, Mauna Kea is the highest peak in Hawaii. Some argue that Mauna Kea is, when the height from base to summit is considered, the tallest mountain on Earth. Either way, the summit of Mauna Kea is one of the best sites in the world for astrological observation.

It is thought that people have been looking at the stars from the peak for centuries and the mountain has important cultural significance to native Hawaiians.

In addition to stargazing, Mauna Kea is a site of prayer, burials, the consecration of children, and other ritual activities. The summit is accessible by trail or by Hawaii Route 200.

Photo by Aaron D. Feen.

China’s Sacred Mountains

If you are looking for sacred mountains, you need go no further than China. The traditional “must visit” mountains include Tai Shan, Hua Shan, Heng Shan, and Song Shan, the Five Great Mountains of Taoism, as well as Wutai Shan, Emei Shan, Jiuhua Shan, and Putuo Shan, the Four Sacred Mountains of Chinese Buddhism.

In addition, there are the Wudang Mountains and Laoshan, the legendary birthplace of Taoism. All of these mountains are serious destinations for Chinese and foreign tourists, featuring well-established infrastructure and sometimes massive crowds. If you are looking for a more relaxed destination in China, check out 8 Places To Experience Unspoiled China.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Fascinated by mountains and the people who climb them? Check out The Explorer’s Club: Travel’s Most Secret Society Revealed, Trekking the Mt. Kanchenjunga Circuit in Nepal, or Trekking the Annapurna Sanctuary in Nepal.

GOODS:

Jon Krakauer’s books about some of the world’s great mountains are classics of the genre. Try Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster, or Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains.

Accidents can occur even at relatively benign roadside crags. Still, there are certain mountains that command respect from even the most experienced climbers, mountains that continue to inspire awe and anxiety decades after their first ascents.

Here are 11 of the world’s most dangerous mountains:

1. Annapurna

Since its first ascent in 1950, Annapurna has been climbed by more than 130 people, but 53 have died trying. This high fatality rate makes Annapurna, the 10th highest mountain in the world, the most statistically dangerous of the 8,000 meter peaks. For more information on getting close to this mountain, check out Trekking the Annapurna Sanctuary in Nepal.

2. K2

The world’s second highest mountain is known among climbers as one of the most technically difficult in the world. Ascents of even the easiest route require crossing a complicated glacier, ascending steep sections of rock, and negotiating a path around a series of ice pillars, called seracs, which are prone to collapse without warning. The technical difficulty of this mountain makes it one of the most committing and dangerous in the world.

Snow wall on Matterhorn. Photo by Ezzzk

3. Nanga Parbat

The world’s ninth highest peak, Nanga Parbat, competes with K2 in terms of technical difficulty. The route of the first ascent follows a narrow ridge to the summit. On the southern side is the largest mountain face on earth, the 15,000 foot Rupal Face. The difficulty of these routes has earned the mountain the nickname “The Man Eater.”

4. Kangchenjunga

When you look at the fatality rates on the world’s most dangerous mountains, you’ll see that most decrease as time goes on. One notable exception is Kangchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world. Death rates have reached as high as 22% in recent years, a reflection of the avalanche and and weather hazards that plague this dangerous mountain.

If you are interested in seeing this mountain up close, Matador Trips has a great reference: Trekking the Mt. Kangchenjunga Circuit in Nepal.

5. The Eiger

The Nordwand, or north face, of this peak in the Swiss Alps is an objective legendary among mountaineers for its danger. Though it was first climbed in 1938, the north face of the Eiger continues to challenge climbers of all abilities with both its technical difficulties and the heavy rockfall that rakes the face.

The difficulty and hazards have earned the Eiger’s north face the nickname Mordwand, or Murder Wall.

Annapurna photo by tboothhk

6. The Matterhorn

This iconic mountain, which looks like a horn rising out of the surrounding valleys, has one of the highest fatality rates of any peak in the Alps. This is caused by a wide range of factors, including technical difficulty, the prevalence of avalanches and rockfall, and severe overcrowding on routes during peak climbing seasons.

7. Mt. Vinson

Mt. Vinson, the highest mountain in Antarctica, is not notable for its height, technical difficulty, or fatality rate. However, the mountain’s isolation, combined with the extreme cold and unpredictable weather on the continent, makes Vinson a very serious undertaking. Even a small accident here could be disastrous.

8. Baintha Brakk

Commonly known as The Ogre, Baintha Brakk is considered one of the most difficult mountains to climb in the world. Though it saw its first ascent in 1971, The Ogre was not summited again until 2001. One of the first ascentionists, Doug Scott, broke both of his legs on the descent, forcing him to crawl through a major storm to the team’s base camp.

This famous epic and more than 20 failed attempts on the peak have earned it a reputation as one of the most dangerous in the world.

Matterhorn photo by AlphaTangoBravo / Adam Baker

9. Mt. Everest

More that 1,500 people have climbed the highest mountain in the world, with as many as 50 people or more reaching the summit on a single day. This congestion, when combined with Everest’s extreme altitude, makes it an undeniably dangerous objective. Whether you plan to summit or not, trekking to Everest’s base camp is one of the 5 Best Treks in Nepal.

10. Denali

Mt. McKinley, also known as Denali, is the highest mountain in North America. Though its altitude is only 20,320 feet, its high latitude means that the atmosphere is far thinner than it would be at the equator. For the many people who climb Denali each year, the altitude, weather, and extreme temperature pose a serious danger.

For these reasons, the success rate on Denali is around 50% and more than 100 climbers have died attempting the summit.

11. Fitz Roy

Cerro Chalten, or Mount Fitz Roy, is the tallest mountain in Patagonia’s Los Glaciares National Park. Fitz Roy’s summit is guarded on all sides by steep rock faces requiring difficult, technical climbing to ascend. Because of this, it was considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world for decades.

Even today, the region’s unpredictable weather and relative isolation makes it extremely dangerous. As a result, Fitz Roy may see only a single ascent in a year: truly the mark of a dangerous, difficult mountain.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you’re even thinking about getting into mountaineering, avalanche safety training is fundamental. Check out Hal Amen’s piece How to Survive an Avalanche.

Nora Dunn and Charlotte are just two of many Matador members that like to climb a mountain every now and then. Join them in the Matador Community today!

Prefer your adrenaline rushes in armchair form? Check out the exploits of the Primal Crew over at Matador Life.

Each of the following cities sees sunshine for no less than 70% of annual daylight hours. But more than that, they provide great opportunities to get out and enjoy it!

Photo by Thomas & Dianne Jones.

Yuma, AZ: 90%

Not only does Yuma receive the most sunshine of any U.S. city, but it’s the Guinness Book of World Records’ pick for the sunniest place on Earth!

The landscape is decidedly desert, but thanks to the Colorado and Gila Rivers, water sports offer a perfect way to beat the heat. Boat rentals are available at some of the nearby lakes, and the Parks and Recreation Office leads canoe and kayak excursions.

Las Vegas, NV: 85%

There’s more to Las Vegas than craps tables and the glittering lights of the strip. The city experiences abundant sunshine and is positioned within the stunning geography of southern Nevada.

Hikers, mountain bikers, and rock climbers head to Red Rock Canyon. Lake Mead is also a short drive away, allowing bathers to stay cool while soaking up the sun, then wrap it up with a tour of the monumental Hoover Dam.

Photo by Flickr Creative Commons.

El Paso, TX: 84%

The past, present, and future of El Paso is inextricably tied to its sister metropolis across the river: Ciudad Juárez. Several festivals throughout the year pay homage to the area’s Hispanic heritage and are a great excuse to get out under sunny skies.

The well-attended Fiesta de las Flores takes place every Labor Day weekend, while the local celebration of Día de los Muertos (late October – early November) emphasizes the cultural connections between El Paso and Juárez. For fans of Mexican cuisine, La Que Buena Gordita Festival couldn’t sound more delicious.

Albuquerque, NM: 76%

Residents of New Mexico’s largest city are renowned for taking advantage of the outdoors. Nestled between the Rio Grande and the Sandia Mountains, Albuquerque offers up every activity imaginable, from golf to hang gliding.

In addition, the city relies on its fair skies to host the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta every October. The nine-day hot air extravaganza is the world’s largest and features around 700 balloons, adding even more color to Southwestern vistas.

Photo by Michelle.

Key West, FL: 76%

Of course, the sun doesn’t only shine in the West. Famous as the haunt of Hemingway and the southernmost city in the continental U.S., Key West mixes year-round mild temperatures with its solar rays.

The ocean dominates outdoor leisure time, whether it’s testing the sand’s softness on one of several beaches or voyaging offshore on a deep-sea fishing excursion. Alternatively, the historic Old Town lends itself perfectly to two-wheeled exploration. Island Bicycles and Eaton Bikes are among the many shops offering rentals.

Lake Charles, LA: 72%

Southwestern Louisiana is often most closely associated with the petrochemical industry, but it’s also home to another of America’s sunniest cities. Lake Charles is a center of Cajun culture, and its dozens of annual fiestas have earned it the nickname, “The Festival Capital of Louisiana.”

Though playing second fiddle to the main event farther east, Lake Charles’ Mardi Gras still draws crowds. Parades, live music, and a gumbo cook-off make for plenty of fun in the sun (with a more family-friendly atmosphere than New Orleans’ celebration). Later in the year, the huge Contraband Days Festival highlights the city’s colorful history.

Photo by Katie Dureault.

Grand Junction, CO: 71%

Another outdoors mecca, Grand Junction is the largest city on Colorado’s Western Slope. Its proximity to the Colorado National Monument (and, farther afield, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park) introduces countless opportunities for whitewater rafting, camping, hiking, biking, and more.

Even winters see a lot of sun, making time spent in the snow that much more enjoyable. Powderhorn Resort, on Grand Mesa, is less than an hour away, while Telluride and Aspen are a three- and four-hour drive, respectively.

Photo by Ron Layters.

Honolulu, HI: 71%

Last but certainly not least, Hawaii’s capital has been a beacon for sun-seekers for centuries. Honolulu’s beach-related activities need no elaboration. Its hiking, both along the coast in places like Diamond Head Crater, and in the tropical mountains of interior Oahu, are less well-known but equally worthy of attention.

And for runners of all stripes, Honolulu hosts the sixth-largest marathon in the world. Around 30,000 athletes hit the streets each year to test their stamina under the Hawaiian sun.

What’s your favorite sunny city, whether in the U.S. or abroad? Share your top picks below!

Practicalities

While the following parks are on opposite corners of the island, driving from one to the other doesn’t take more than a few hours. Renting a car is the way to go due to a distinct lack of public transportation.

Budget accommodation is also difficult to come by. However, in the spirit of immersing yourself in Puerto Rico’s natural wonders, consider pitching a tent. Public campgrounds are widespread, affordable, and well cared for. There are also private campgrounds, although some are open only to RVs.

The Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambientales (Department of Natural Resources and Environment) is in charge of most campgrounds located within parks and reserves. These are cheap, but may require advance reservations.

To camp on the beach, go through Compañia de Parques Nacionales (National Parks Company), which runs several balnearios (seaside camping and recreation complexes) around the island.

Both websites above are in Spanish only. For camping information in English, check out these resources:

You might see safety warnings associated with some campgrounds, but only those closest to San Juan. That said, camping outside of designated areas is not recommended, and wherever you are, it’s never wise to leave valuables in your tent.

If money is less of an issue, numerous hotels and resorts cater to mid-range and luxury budgets. For eco-friendly options, as well as general tips for green travel on the island, check out Julie Schwietert’s Green Guide to Puerto Rico.

With temperature and precipitation relatively constant, the main climate factor to watch for when planning a trip is hurricane season. September and October are the riskiest months to visit, but that being said, the last big hurricane to affect Puerto Rico was in 1998. In addition, your camping options may be more limited outside of the summer months.

El Yunque

While only an hour from downtown San Juan and firmly on the tourist track, the tropical rainforest of El Yunque, also known as the Caribbean National Forest, is a must-see.

El Yunque contains four distinct forest zones, defined by elevation, each with its own unique mix of flora and fauna.

Most visitors come on package tours, which don’t leave them nearly enough time to explore the area. On your own, however, it’s easy to lose the crowds.

Make sure to take advantage of El Portal Visitors Center on your way into the park. The nominal admission fee gives you access to a plethora of informational displays as well as short paths through the surrounding forest.

The Palo Colorado Visitors Center, near the end of Highway 191, is where most of the main hiking routes begin.

Trails range from easy to intense and a hike will allow you to take in a variety of sights, including waterfalls, swimming holes, lookout towers, and mountain peaks. The Trailwinds and El Toro trails are long enough to stretch into an overnight trek.

Camping in El Yunque is absolutely free, but you’ll need to pick up a permit beforehand at the Catalina Work Center (also on Highway 191). There are no designated sites or facilities beyond the visitor centers, so make sure to pack as much food and water as you’ll need, and be prepared for rain.

Other accommodations, including two balnearios, stretch north of the park from Río Grande to Fajardo. Naguabo, to the south, has a few as well.

Bosque Estatal de Guánica

The most impressive feature of the Guánica Biosphere Reserve is its utterly divergent landscape. Only 35 inches of rain fall on this southwestern strip of coast each year. With your socks still damp from a trek through El Yunque, you might feel as if you’ve been transported to a different continent.

The small ranger station just beyond the park entrance can set you up with a map of the reserve’s short hiking trails. None are too strenuous, but remember to pack plenty of water and sunscreen; the hot sun and arid atmosphere will suck the moisture right out of you.

Lookouts and coastal views are easily accessed from the trails. In addition, keep your eyes peeled for the many rare bird species that frequent this ecosystem. And wherever you hike, you won’t be able to miss the sight (or the name!) of the Spanish dildo cactus.

Along the shore just south of the forest runs scenic Highway 333, passing several pleasant beaches. Here, you’ll also find the posh Copamarina Beach Resort, and passage can be arranged to the two islands just offshore. A couple guesthouses are situated in the nearby town of Guánica.

Bosque Estatal de Guajataca

From rainforest to dry forest to something in between. The tall deciduous trees of the Guajataca Forest Reserve will look more familiar to most North Americans.

What catches the eye here often lies beneath the ground. The area is rich in karst formations, porous limestone that over the millennia has been eroded to form rough cliffs, deep sinkholes, and subterranean passageways.

Trail #1 will lead you to a most impressive example of the phenomenon: la Cueva del Viento. After passing through a hole in the hillside, a damp wooden staircase descends into this expansive and pitch-black cave.

Totally unsupervised, you are free to explore the maze of stalagmites, columns, and tunnels at your own pace. Don’t forget your flashlight!

As there are numerous trails weaving through the forest, it’s best to hike with a map. Unfortunately, at the time of this author’s visit, the ranger station on Highway 446 was closed for renovations. It might be best to stop for information at a DRNA office in San Juan or Aguadilla. The DRNA also runs a campground in the park.

The forest sees few visitors, despite its close proximity to other attractions. Good surfing beaches lie to the northwest; to the southeast sits Lago Guajataca, a recreational lake with several camping and guesthouse options; just beyond that, you’ll find the third-largest cave system in the world at Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy; and who could forget Observatorio de Arecibo, home to the world’s largest radio telescope?

And many more

Don’t stop with these three offerings. The island is packed with parks and reserves, virtually undiscovered by tourists and awaiting explorers in search of a different Puerto Rico. At approximately 100 x 39 miles, this island is highly explorable. And the fact that US citizens don’t need a passport to visit is all the more reason to make plans for a trip to America’s “isle of enchantment.”

Community Connection

Matador writer and editor Julie Schwietert Collazo lived in Puerto Rico for almost three years. Feel free to contact her for trip advice.

Matador member Caribe is from San Juan, and Liesbet is currently exploring Puerto Rico’s coast by boat. Not a Matador member yet? Sign up today!

Your purchases help support Matador.

Photo above by judepics. Photo above by Emma and Michael’s Excellent Adventures.

Imagine doing yoga in the great outdoors, surrounded by some of Spain’s tallest mountains. Imagine clean, pine-scented Alpine air mingling with a sultry sea salt breeze infused with orange blossom each time you inhale.

This heady mix exists in Órgiva, 52 kilometers south of Granada, 29 kilometers north of the Mediterranean coast, and set deep in the Alpujarras mountains of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in southern Spain.

Photo by judepics.

Órgiva is a mountain town that, like its Alpine-Mediterranean air, mixes traditional Andalusian and New Age international cultures. The blend is like green tea and mint, olives and sherry, churros and chocolate.

Best of all, Órgiva is home to one of the most earthy and beautifully offered yoga retreats I’ve encountered in my travels, Yoga Under the Sky.

In the heart of such a diverse, New Age, and organic farming scene and town, Yoga Under the Sky is in the perfect setting to offer organized or tailor-made retreat options for one person, couples, or groups.

Set near the Chico River that flows through town, Yoga Under the Sky offers many modalities of yoga styles and a terrific roster of talented, compassionate, and certified yoga teachers and massage therapists.

You can contact Yoga Under the Sky to arrange for an organized retreat (such retreats are on their website) or to create a retreat of your own that will address your and your partner’s particular needs. The staff also suggest great lodging and dining options.

Essentially, Órgiva is the retreat setting and within it are several rural and village houses for week-long stays as well as several all organic, local produce, and regional wine-serving eateries. The town has a vibrant energy and there is a lot happening any day of the week throughout the year.

Photo by diluvi.

Lodging

My favorite place to stay is Casa Rural Jazmin. Though “casa rural” means “rural house,” it is a lovely old stone farmhouse in town that is surrounded by a garden filled with fruit-bearing trees, such as pomegranate and lemon, and a refreshing swimming pool.

Casa Jazmin has four rooms, each with a private bath. The two proprietors are warm and welcoming and every morning they get up early to create a unique, healthy, and homemade breakfast that is often served in the garden.

Rooms for two people, including that breakfast for two, are between 48-70 euros. Given that you are in the heart of town and everything is central, in spite of the wonderful rural feel of the place, you don’t need your own wheels to get here or to stay here.

It’s an easy downhill saunter to yoga sessions, to the bus stop for buses to Granada, Malaga, Motril, or to other Alpujarran destinations, and shops and markets are all within a few hundred yards away in the town center.

Photo by Joi

Organic Dining Out in Órgiva

For such a small town, Órgiva has terrific dining out options that won’t kill your budget. Here you’ll find places where organic, Slow Food, and Buy Local, Buy Fresh drive the standard meal.

Three favorites are Café Libertad, El Limonero, and Café-Tetería Baraka. The latter is a fun hangout run by local Sufis that offers diverse vegetarian cuisine, a variety of tea, as well as other non-alcoholic beverages, including natural fruit juices and smoothies.

Organic Food Markets in Órgiva

Everyday is market day if you go to the central covered market near the Plaza de la Alpujarra in the heart of town. Therein you’ll find the organic farmers, wine makers, bakers, and cheesemakers.

But the highlight is the weekly open-air market on Thursday mornings, on the long, narrow plaza on the northern end of town (the uphill end, near Casa Jazmin).

It’s a riotous and colorful gathering of farmers, clothes-sellers, and craftspeople. Dogs, guitars, and long-haired and short-haired folks alike mingle and embrace their hybrid traditional and alternative ways of living and eating.

Photo by judepics.

Getting There

Getting to Órgiva is easy.

It is 52 kilometers south of Granada. By car, take the A-44/E-902 south of Granada and after 34 kilometers exit east for Lanjarón. Follow signs to Órgiva. Or, just get on a bus in Granada destined for Órgiva, costing fewer than 5 euros one way.

Alternately, Yoga Under the Sky can arrange for a taxi to pick you up at Granada’s airport and deliver you to Órgiva for 50 euros. While this might sound like a lot, it’s a bargain for a private driver and no car rental. Still, the bus is pretty easy.

Adventures Beyond Yoga

Hiking Options:

Take the local bus from Órgiva to Pampaneira, a twenty-minute ride, and hike from the mountain village of Pampaneira to Bubión and on to Capileira. You can either hike back to Pampaneira for the bus, or take the bus from Capileira to Órgiva. In all places, you will find ample cafes for a tapa and refreshment. Beer or chilled fino sherry are favorites. Drink lots of water, too.

Tibetan Retreat:

Consider a silent meditation retreat at the O Sel Ling Tibetan Buddhist retreat, between Órgiva and Pampaneira. If you go as a couple, you will need to do this stint in separate huts and in silence.

Visit Granada:

Photo by pasotraspaso.

Granada is an easy 45-minute bus ride away from Órgiva, so you can make a fun day-trip to the city and soak up the magical Alhambra fortress-palace complex and hit the streets in the old neighborhood of the Albaicin.

Albaicin is filled with vegetarian and organic restaurants, especially along Calle Nueva Calderería, the center of Granada’s alternative, progressive, New Age, Bohemian scene. A day trip can be a boon if you are traveling during the peak summer season, when finding lodging in Granada can be stressful.

Relax, secure a week or two at the Casa Jazmin in Órgiva, do some yoga, eat locally, and unpack just once in your peaceful mountain retreat.

Community Connection!

The author of this article, Beebe, was recently featured in 50 Inspirational Travelers. If you liked Beebe’s guide to Orgiva Yoga, please be sure to read her surf guide to Asturias, a lovely rural section of the Spanish coast.

Feature photo by ccate. Photo above by DanieVDM.

These towns are the best in the world for adventure!

Photo by LizMarie.

Valdez, Alaska

One of the premier heli-skiing locations in the world, Valdez offers access to the snow-drenched steeps and spines of the Chugach Range.

For mellower adventures, Prince William Sound offers sea kayaking and tours into surrounding glaciers. Check out Points North for heli-skiing packages.

Photo by Michael Scheltgen.

Vancouver, British Columbia

Vancouver’s North Shore invented freeride mountain biking. Huge drops. Crazy, winding wood bridges and planks. Sick jumps. This is the North Shore’s bread and butter.

Haven’t gotten enough? Head two hours north to Whistler and drop into backcountry via helicopter and bike your way out.

When the snow begins to fall, Vancouver offers access to many ski resorts including Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Mt. Seymour, just minutes from downtown, and Whistler, North America’s largest resort, to the north.

Also, check out Matador’s complete guide to heli-skiing in British Colombia.

Photo by woodleywonderworks.

Jackson, Wyoming

Jackson Hole is a name that produces an automatic tingle down the spine of anyone who’s ever ridden planks or boarded down a snow-covered slope.

Jackson is home to some of the most serious riding, both in-bounds and backcountry, in the lower 48. The town is less-known for the multitude of other sports it offers year-round, including mountain biking, backcountry hikes and paragliding.

Jackson is also a jumping off point for Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, offering the most diverse wildlife viewing in the lower 48.

Photo by JasonRogers.

Moab, UT

Moab’s 4 x 4 roads, rock-strewn trails and slickrock have given it the reputation as “Mountain Biking Capital of the World.”

The rugged, high desert is a breeding ground for any off-road adventure—ATVing, dirt biking, buggying, jeeping And the hoodoos rising above the desert floor and canyons that cut through acres of red rock are ideal for climbing and canyoneering.

The Green and Colorado Rivers also offer whitewater excursions. Try a Moab multi-sport package.

Photo by uLe @ Dortmund.

Puerto Escondido, Mexico

Puerto Escondido is famous for its break off Zicatela Beach, dubbed the Mexican Pipeline. It is one of the heaviest barrels on the Pacific Coast, a classic surf destination in Mexico.

In addition, adventure-seekers can enjoy kayaking, scuba diving and eco tours into the surrounding jungles and mountains.

Turrialba, Costa Rica

With a reputation as a whitewater paradise for its local rivers, the Reventazon and Pacuare, Turrialba is also a key hub for multi-day mountain biking, hiking, and backpacking trips.

Mountain bike or raft through lush rainforests and volcanic valleys. If you’re on an adrenaline binge, bike from Turrialba to the Pacific Coast and pick up a board for some of Costa Rica’s world class surfing.

For the foot traveler, summit the Turrialba Volcano or take a look 3000 years in the past at the Guayabo National Monument. Check out costaricaadventures.net.

Photo by sancho_panza.

Arequipa, Peru

With its location in the shadow of 19er volcanic peaks such as El Misti and Chachani, Arequipa is a mountain climber’s dream town.

If climbing mountains isn’t your game, Arequipa also offers whitewater paddling through the depths of the Cotahuasi Canyon, arguably the world’s deepest gorge (over 2 miles) and mountain biking treks from high in the Andes down into the Amazon Jungle.

Check out peruadventures.com for these and other epic options.

Photo by ccate.

Futaleufu, Chile

The small town of Futaleufu in Patagonian Chile accesses the river by the same name–a river many lifelong kayakers consider the most beautiful and challenging in the wold.

This alone would earn it a place on the list, but with access to Andean Peaks and treks through Patagonia, the town is ripe for multi-sport adventures like few other locales in South America. Many companies run trips down the Futaleufu; here’s one: earthriver.com.

Grytviken, South Georgia Island

Antarctica needed to be on this list—the continent possesses elements of frontier and adventure exploration like nowhere else on earth. So although Grytviken is not a traditional town, it earns its rank.

Grytviken offers an historical look back into great Antarctic excursions of the past, housing the gravesite of British explorer Ernest Shackleton, a museum and remnants of an early 20th century whaling colony.

South Georgia is a popular stop on many Antarctic trips and is home to hundreds of thousands of penguins, several species of seal and albatross. Prepare for your Antarctic excursion.

Photo by DanieVDM.

Cape Town, South Africa

Cape Town is revered worldwide for the huge swells off its white-sand beaches. In addition to killer surfing, the waters that surround the city are great for kite surfing and sea kayaking.

If you prefer to stay dry, pick up a sandboard and head out to the white sand dunes of Atlantis, a nature reserve about 40 minutes outside of Cape Town. Or, if you’re tired of just staring at Table Mountain, climb to the top by foot or cable car and repel or mountain bike down.

Check out Cape Town’s Downhill Adventures for these and other packages.

Photo by travellingtamas.

Interlaken, Switzerland

One ski pass for the Jungfrau Top Ski Region will earn you access to over 128 miles of ski trails across 3 resorts, connected to Interlaken by mountain railway.

Not enough? Jump in a helicopter and ride a remote slice of the Alps. Also try ice climbing or glacier treks. Summertime brings sports like mountaineering, bungee jumping from gondolas, sky diving and zorbing—rolling down a hill inside a big plastic ball—to the fray.

Canyons such as Grimsel and Saxeten offer thrilling canyoning—repelling and leaping into canyons— amidst cascading waterfalls.

Find out more on your own: alpinraft.com or swissalpineguides.ch.

Photo by kennymatic.

Voss, Norway

Voss’s setting amidst the peaks and fjords of western Norway has earned it a rep as a world capital for the fringe sport of BASE jumping.

After landing, kayak or raft Class III-V rapids on the Stranda and Randaul Rivers. If you’d prefer running rapids via riverboard, try it out under close professional supervision at Voss Rafting Senter. The Center also offers repelling on the 500-foot Tvinnefossen waterfall and canyoning/cliff jumping options.

Once dry, be sure to try out para-bungee, in which you’re hoisted 600 feet into the air on a giant parasail platform to bungee 300 feet below. Oh, and Voss is also one of Norway’s largest ski towns.

Shegar, Tibet

It would be difficult to complete this list without including the most revered, infamous adventure of them all—Everest. The tiny town of Shegar, Tibet is the last stop on the northern route to Everest Base Camp.

Although Shegar may be a small, one-trick pony; the trick is pretty huge and significant. Himalayan scenery doesn’t hurt either.

Photo by showmeone.

Queenstown, New Zealand

The mountains and waters surrounding Queenstown are home to many classic outdoor sports: whitewater, heli-skiing, climbing, jet boating and mountain biking, to name a few.

Queenstown decided that its natural endowments weren’t enough and helped craft some of the world’s more insane sports. AJ Hackett, one of bungee’s pioneer jumpers and entrepreneurs, founded a bungee operation in Queenstown on the Kawarau Bridge back in the late 80’s.

Since then, bungee jumping has flourished in the city. Apparently, bungee was a little too one dimensional— Queenstown’s 359-foot Shotover Canyon Swing allows you to swing out over the canyon after dropping nearly 200 feet. Pretty sick. Check out Queenstown adventure for more information.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For first-timer recommendations about adventure sports in the great outdoors, check out Dana Ranill’s “A First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding.”

For a classic profile on the pioneers of today’s gravity sports, check out David Miller’s article “Feeling Gravity’s Pull.”

Looking for Outdoor Gear?

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LTD Sock 06 Snowboard Bag – Black
A Team Formica Bottom Sandboard

Feature photo by ah zut. Photo above by ah zut.

Nepal is a country of great diversity. Though small, it contains a wide variety of climates, terrains, cultures, and people. Still, the reason most travelers make the effort to visit Nepal are the Himalaya mountains.

If your goal is to get into the high mountains, there is no better path than the trek into the Annapurna Sanctuary.

Photo by ddefranza.

What to Expect

The Annapurna Sanctuary is a natural amphitheater created by a ring of high mountains. The centerpiece is Annapurna I at 8,091 meters (26,538 feet) which rises out of the glacier that extends from base camp, the trek’s highest point.

The mountain was the first of the 8,000 meter peaks to be climbed. However, this does not mean that it is a simple or safe task. The somber memorial to Anatoli Boukreev, who perished while attempting to summit the mountain in 1997, attests to the danger of ascending the peak. Don’t worry though, the trek does not approach the summit.

Though often added as an extension to the much longer Annapurna Circuit trek, the trip into the sanctuary can be done as an objective unto itself. The trek, which begins in Pokhara, usually takes between eight and ten days. This makes it an excellent option for those on a tight schedule.

Photo by ddefranza.

Getting There and Back Again

The base for the trek is the lake-side town of Pokhara. Smaller and more relaxed than Kathmandu, Pokhara is a great place to prepare for a trek and is an even better place to refresh yourself after one.

Most travelers stay in one of the hotels within the “Lakeside” district. This area is roughly equivalent to Kathmandu’s Thamel, and offers dozens of shops, cafes, guest houses, and guide services. If you are looking for something a bit quieter, the neighboring “Damside” district offers many of the same amenities, with a greatly reduced density.

Travel between Kathmandu and Pokhara is well established and fairly straightforward. Options include a 30 minute flight, usually under $100 USD, or a variety of buses, ranging in price from $2 USD to $10 USD, taking anywhere from five to ten hours.

The trek itself begins from the small town of Nayapul, which is an hour’s bus or taxi ride from Pokhara.

Permits, Porters and Guides

The Annapurna Sanctuary trek is largely contained within the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP), a national park that covers 7,629 square kilometers. Entry into the park requires the purchase of an ACAP Entry Permit. The permit requires an application and two passport photos. It costs about $60 USD and can be obtained in a single day from offices in Kathmandu and Pokhara.

In addition to this permit, all trekkers in Nepal are now required to register for and obtain a card through the Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS). This new card has replaced the controversial TRC permit introduced in 2006 and is available for free through a trekking agency, the Nepal Tourism Board, or the Trekkers Agencies’ Association of Nepal. The card can be issued in either Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Although people still circumvent the system, trekkers are now required to hire at least one Nepali staff member (a porter or guide) per group.

Many independent travelers are initially upset by this proposition. However, almost everyone who finds a knowledgeable guide from a quality company comes away admitting that it improved the overall trekking experience.

One of the best trekking agencies in Nepal is 3 Sisters Adventure Treks. Based in Pokhara, the 3 Sisters provide responsible, well-trained, staff and manage several development projects throughout Nepal that help women and children.

Photo by utrechtman.

What to Pack

Like most popular routes in Nepal, the Annapurna Sanctuary is a “teahouse trek.” Trails pass through villages, each with its own lodging. Camping gear like heavy sleeping bags, tents, and cook stoves are not required on this trail. As a result, trekkers can get by with fairly light loads.

Essential items include a flashlight or headlamp, at least two water bottles, a few changes of socks, several layers of clothing including a down jacket, sweater, and woolen hat and gloves, plus a waterproof / windproof jacket or parka.

While most teahouses provide quilts, it is a good idea to have your own sleeping bag, even if it is only a summer-weight one, as a supplement and in case an overbooked lodge has run out.

Even in the summer, the trek will take you through snow and ice and over some rough terrain. Bring a sturdy pair of boots, broken in before you arrive at the trail-head.

Also recommended is a tested and trusted backpack large enough to carry all of your belongings.

Other items to consider include sunscreen, candy bars, some form of water purification (if you are nervous or have a sensitive stomach), and a pair of sandals or light shoes to wear at the end of the day.

All kinds of mountain gear, of all qualities, can be purchased in either Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Photo by ddefranza.

Dangers and Concerns

The trail into the Annapurna Sanctuary is well traveled and trekkers should not be overly concerned about danger. Rock and icefall is always a concern, especially at higher elevations in the spring.

If you are unsure of your ability to asses the conditions of an alpine environment, hiring an experienced guide is an excellent idea.

Of greater concern to most trekkers will be altitude sickness. One of the Annapurna Sanctuary trek’s greatest appeals–the fact that it quickly gets you into the high mountains–is also one of its greatest drawbacks. Pokhara lies at 941 meters (2,700 feet), while the Annapurna base camp sits at 4130 meters (13,550 feet). Climbing to this altitude in only five or six days is an invitation for altitude sickness.

Trekkers should take care to study the signs and symptoms of altitude sickness before they leave and adjust their pace accordingly once on the trail.

Resources

Photo by dave watts.

A trek in Nepal can be the trip of a lifetime but planning one can be daunting. Fortunately, there are some excellent resources.

One of the best general guides, even when compared to those in print, is available for free at Yetizone. The description of the Annapurna Sanctuary is included with the guide to the greater Annapurna Circuit and begins at day 16b of the itinerary.

Probably the best guidebook in print is Trekking in the Annapurna Region, 4th: Nepal Trekking Guides.

Lonely Planet also publishes Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya which features some excellent topographic maps but gets mixed reviews from trekkers.

The classic is Trekking in Nepal: A Traveler’s Guideby Dr. Stephen Bezruchka.

Both Annapurna: Conquest of the First 8,000-meter Peak by Maurice Herzog and Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineerby Anatoli Boukreev provide excellent reading related to the trek.

Community Connection!

For an overview of classic treks in Nepal, check out 5 Best Treks In Nepal. Hardcore adventurers who want to get way off the tourist trail should read the excellent guide to Trekking The Mt. Kangchenjunga Circuit In Nepal.

Grassroots NGOs that offer volunteer opportunities in Nepal include The Red Panda Project and The Everest Peace Project.

Feature photo by thetravellinged. Photo above by jmhullot.

When you walk the crowded streets of Thamel, Kathmandu you will be bombarded by signs advertising trekking tours, guide companies, and a number of shops selling new and used gear.

Photo by phitar.

And with good reason: the treks in Nepal, which wind through the world’s highest mountains, are unique in the world.

The only problem is picking which one you want to do first.

Here, in no particular order, are five of the best treks in Nepal:

1. The Langtang Region

A trek through the Langtang region will take you to 4,700 meters (15,419 feet) with excellent views of both the Annapurna region to the west and the Makalu region to the east. The trek also passes by Buddhist monasteries and a nature reserve renowned for animal viewing.

Perhaps the best thing about the 14-day trek is that it begins near, or even in, Kathmandu. This makes it very easy to organize and is an excellent option for those pressed for time or looking for an easy introduction to trekking in Nepal.

For more information about trekking in the Langtang region, check out the excellent guide at Yeti Zone.

Photo by judepics.

2. The Mt. Everest Circuit

Nestled in the Khumbu region, home to Sherpa and Tibetan Buddhist cultures, there are many reasons to visit this area of Nepal besides getting a glimpse of Chomolungma, as Everest is known to the people who live around her.

Treks in the Khumbu typically range from 17 to 25 days, depending on the route. Though it was once popular to begin treks into the Khumbu from just outside Kathmandu, heavy Maoist activity in these areas has forced most trekkers to fly to Lukla, which sits at 2,680 meters (9,380 feet).

From Lukla, most trekkers head straight for Namche Bazaar and then on to Gorek Shep, a small town that provides unparalleled views of Mt. Everest. Going all the way to Everest base camp or making the route a loop by visiting the Gokyo Lakes (highly recommended) will both add days to the trip.

For help planning, the Yeti Zone has an excellent description of the Everest Circuit, including the Gokyo Lakes loop.

Photo by Curr_En.

3. The Annapurna Circuit

The major trek in the west of Nepal is the Annapurna circuit. Reaching a height of 5,300 meters (17,388 feet), the circuit traverses the incredible mountains and glaciers of the Annapurna Conservation Area.

The circuit takes between 16 and 20 days from Pokhara, Nepal’s third largest city. Though the elevations are just as high as in Khumbu, the Annapurna Circuit begins near sea level and allows more time for gentle acclimatization.

The Annapurna circuit is popular because it allows trekkers to pass through diverse terrain, from jungle to high alpine, and passes through a region dominated by Tibetan Buddhist culture. At one point, trekkers even have the opportunity to look into the heavily restricted Mustang Region, which extends all the way into Tibet itself.

Yeti Zone also provides an excellent guide to the Annapurna Circuit.

Photo by judepics.

4. The Annapurna Sanctuary

The Annapurna circuit itself does not actually go to the common base camp of Annapurna. It is the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, which also begins from Pokhara, that leads to the base of this impressive 8,091 meter (26,545 feet) mountain.

The trek takes between eight and ten days, round trip from Pokhara, and can be a real trial for the unacclimatized. The base camp, at 4,157 meters (13,638 feet), can also be reached as an extension from the Annapurna Circuit.

At the edge of the base camp is the memorial to Anatoli Boukreev. Boukreev, one of the world’s great mountaineers, was killed in an avalanche on the peak in 1997. For lovers of mountains and mountain lore, the experience is moving, to say the least.

Matador Trips will be publishing a detailed guide of the Annapurna Sanctuary trek later in August.

Photo by judepics.

5. Mt. Kangchenjunga Circuit

If you are looking for something a bit more remote and much less traveled, the trek to the base camp of Mt. Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters, 28,169 feet) may be just the thing.

It is best to plan at least 20 days to reach the base camp of the world’s third highest peak and return. Unlike the other treks on this list, the amenities on the Mt. Kangchenjunga route will be basic. While a tent is not required, expect meals of daal (lentils), rice, chapati (an unleavened bread), and the occasional vegetable curry.

Well off the beaten path, the Kanchenjunga Circuit is a great way to spend time with local Nepali people far away from the hordes of other trekkers who flood more popular treks in peak seasons. For more information on the Mt. Kanchenjunga Circuit, check out Andris Bjornson’s excellent guide at Matador Trips.

Community Connection:

Check out the organizational profiles of Matador members offering volunteering opportunities in Nepal, including The Red Panda Project and The Everest Peace Project. Do you have an organization doing great work around the world? List your organization with Matador today!

Feature photo by REUTERS/Mike Hutchings. Photo above by kanaka

What makes a wave dangerous? Is sheer size an accurate indicator for how hazardous a surf spot is? Read on for our roundup of the top ten most dangerous waves in the world.

1. Cyclops (remote south coast Western Australia)

This ultra square-shaped, below sea level, one-eyed monster tops the list for good reasons. It’s impossible to paddle into on a surfboard and almost unrideable towing behind a jet ski.

If you blow a wave here you’ll be washed straight onto the dry rocks, which is a bummer because the nearest medical help is hours away.

Photo by REUTERS/Mike Hutchings

2. Teahupoo (Tahiti)

The scary thing about Teahupoo (pronounced Cho-poo) is that as the swell gets beyond 10 feet the wave doesn’t so much get taller, it just gets more enormous, often looking like the entire ocean is peeling over with the lip.

Falling off here is almost a guarantee of hitting the razor sharp coral reef below, which wouldn’t be so bad if the locals didn’t insist on using fresh Tahitian lime juice to sterilise the reef cuts. Ouch.

3. Shipsterns (Tasmania, Australia)

Set along a remote length of pristine Tasmanian coastline, you could almost call this area picturesque if the wave itself wasn’t so ugly.

Raw Antarctic swells come out of deep ocean and jack up into a roaring righthander in front of the cliff which gives the spot its name. The uneven reef causes weird steps and bubbles in the wave, which are always a pleasant surprise when you’re still trying to navigate the drop down the face.

Photo by jurvetson

4. Dungeons (Cape Town, South Africa)

It’s not that shallow and it doesn’t break in front of any rocks, but it is located off the tip of South Africa in the freezing Southern Ocean in shark infested waters. Dungeons regularly holds waves up to 70 feet, which is why organisers have chosen to hold the annual Big Wave Africa contest here since 1999.

5. Pipeline (Oahu, Hawaii)

The shallow lava reef that shapes Pipe’s famous round tube is actually full of trenches and bumps -meaning a nasty old time for anyone falling out of the lip from 12 feet above. Which happens with surprisingly regularity, even to the experienced locals.

Perhaps almost as dangerous are the insane crowds that flock to Pipe any time it gets good, with fearless Hawaiians competing with pros, wannabes and tourists for the set waves.

Photo by felipeskroski

6. Desert Point (Lombok, Indonesia)

This beautiful lefthander peels over very shallow coral somewhere off the dusty island of Lombok. The wave is less dangerous than the hazards of extreme boredom during flat spells (there’s nothing on land but a few run down losemans), overcrowding, contracting malaria and the fact that medical access is hours away.

7. The Cave (Ericeira, Portugal)

With all the ingredients that a dangerous wave should have, including a shallow reef, urchins and hot-tempered Latino locals, its not surprising The Cave has been described as Europe’s heaviest wave. It was once the preserve of Portugal’s bodyboarding set, but pros like Tiago Pires have been taking it on in recent years – and surviving.

Photo by bevankoopman

8. Lunada Bay (California, USA)

Perhaps one of the best right handers in California, Lunada is a great performance wave at six feet but it also handles swell right up to 20 feet. It’s not an overly dangerous wave in itself, but the locals are another matter.

Visiting surfers have reported slashed tyres, rocks thrown, fist fights and a seemingly disinterested local police force. You’re on your own here.

9. Gringos (Arica, Chile)

Chile has a bunch of waves as equally as heavy and urchin-infested as this one but El Gringo is included in this list because of the damage it did to the pro surfers who surfed it in 2007’s WCT event. There were numerous broken boards, embedded urchin spines and slashed heads. And they surf for a living. Imagine what it’d do to you?

10. Tarqua (Lagos, Nigeria)

The good news is that this beach break located at the entrance to the Lagoon of Iddo in Lagos is often a fun, wedging peak. The bad news is the 60 million litres of raw sewage and tonnes of industrial waste produced by the 8 million inhabitants of Lagos every year that flows out into the ocean. Other hazards include floating carcasses, rubbish and the occasional mugging on the beach.

Community connection

Looking for waves for mere mortals? Check out Spencer Read about searching for surf in Vietnam with Rhys Stacker’s “China Beach and Beyond” article here.

And for an all around great surf story and guide to Central America, check out Spencer Klein’s classic Another End of the Road.

Feature photo by shoothead. Photo above by GeneC55.

Maine’s biggest city may not have made it onto any official “green tourism” maps just yet. But for those seeking to leave no trace, Portland has plenty to offer. From the metropolitan air of Congress Street, to the clean-cut red brick of downtown and the Old Port’s quaint cobblestone…it can all be yours, o green traveler!

Practicalities

For most, a trip to Portland translates to hours on a turnpike clogged with New Englanders headed to “Vacationland” for the weekend. But it doesn’t have to be that way.

Consider the Amtrak Downeaster, connecting Boston to Portland’s Transportation Center. Hail from elsewhere? Why not put together a longer train trip? Check out this page for all the Amtrak travel tips you’ll need.

The CAT pulls into the Portland International Ferry Terminal direct from Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. It has a regular summertime schedule and is a great option if you’re coming from the Maritimes.

And, of course, Portland’s tiny International Jetport is always a last resort.

Hit the Streets!

Once you’ve arrived, the immediate area of interest is compact enough that you won’t need a car for any of it. Put your legs to work and rent a bike at Cycle Mania. Although bicycle lanes are sparse, you shouldn’t have any trouble with the city’s light traffic.

Portland’s METRO bus system can also get you where you need to go. A pass good for 10 rides goes for $11. All buses are equipped with front racks that hold up to two bicycles.

But on a breezy summer’s day, nothing beats your feet for a tour of the town.

The Green (and Blue) Outdoors

As temperatures rise, Portland residents flock outdoors to burn off all the calories accumulated during hibernation. Why not join them?

In the middle of town, tall trees, grassy knolls, sports facilities, and an attractive pond comprise Deering Oaks Park, the perfect place to while away an afternoon. For more of a workout, tackle the trails in the Fore River Sanctuary to the northwest. Though surrounded by sprawl, it’s possible to get lost from the sights and sounds of the modern world here.

Photo above by brentdanley.

A comprehensive listing of Greater Portland’s parks and paths can be found at the website of Portland Trails. If the online maps are too difficult to read, it’s only $4.95 to purchase the real thing.

Of course, the city’s coastal location is the main attraction for summertime visitors, and there are many ways to enjoy the ocean. Yes, swimming is one of them, despite the fact that average water temperatures top out at 62º. Heck, people even surf!

Whether you choose to enter the water or not, sand is essential. Willard Beach in South Portland is the closest, though you’ll probably want to journey a bit farther south to Crescent Beach State Park. Conditions here are nice, but expect crowds, especially on weekends.

Another way to take to the waves is by sea kayak. Headquartered on Peaks Island in Casco Bay, the Maine Island Sea Kayak Company offers tours to destinations near and far, as well as courses from beginner to advanced. H2Outfitters and Maine Kayak run trips starting farther up the coast, so you’ll need a car to get there.

The ferries of Casco Bay Lines make Peaks Island easily accessible from the Old Port. In addition to kayaking, the island has a great perimeter bicycle route, a couple beaches, a handful of restaurants, and a laidback atmosphere.

Arts & Culture

With nearly 400 years of history behind them, Portland’s historic districts deserve a look. Guided walking tours are your perfect low-impact choice and can be arranged at the Convention & Visitors Bureau, the Portland Museum of Art, and the Portland Observatory. Check here for self-guided itineraries.

For something a little more interactive, sign onto a sailing tour. With Maine Sailing Adventures, you’ll learn about local maritime history and witness the beauty of Casco Bay aboard an engineless, 19th-century windjammer replica. Lucky Catch Cruises, though not exactly green, gives you the chance to experience the life of a lobster fisherman.

But there’s more to Portland culture than the salty sea. Its aforementioned art museum is surprisingly chic for a city of its size, and admission is free on Friday evenings from 5 to 9. See the Portland Arts District webpage for a complete listing of museums and galleries. Each month during the First Friday Art Walk, downtown blossoms with exhibits to suit all tastes.

And don’t forget to partake of the obligatory Old Port shopping spree. When you tire of Maine knickknacks and bohemian curios, stop by Fiachre, a bright gardening shop on Fore Street, or Sea Bags, where recycled sails are crafted into attractive handbags. You’ll find this store/workshop on Custom House Wharf, off Commercial Street.

Eat (and Drink) Green

Portland’s surprisingly diverse population is reflected in its eateries. Vietnamese, Dominican, Polish, and Eritrean are among the more unusual offerings.

The aptly named Green Elephant serves up an array of wonderful Asian-inspired entrees, many of them vegan. Pepperclub is another good choice for diners seeking creative vegetarian fare.

Photo above by lumierefl.

If local produce turns you on, make sure to hit up a farmers’ market. There’s one on Wednesdays from 7 AM -2 PM in Monument Square, while Deering Oaks Park hosts another on Saturday mornings. Both run from May through October.

Like most New England cities, Portland has its share of hometown breweries, so drinking local isn’t a problem. A rarer find, though, is Maine Distilleries, which turns Maine potatoes into the award-winning Cold River Vodka. Seek out this non-traditional attraction 15 miles to the north on Route 1.

Stay

Your greenest accommodation option lies south of Portland proper—Cape Elizabeth’s luxurious Inn by the Sea. Maine’s first carbon-neutral resort uses biofuels to heat its buildings and solar to warm its pool.

For a better location (and a lower price tag), check out B&B-style outfits such as the West End Inn and the Wild Iris Inn; the latter appears to be planning some green initiatives.

If you stay long enough to cycle through your suitcase, take your dirties to the good folks at Washboard Eco-Laundry. This environmentally conscious laundromat features energy-efficient machines, solar-heated water, and Earth-friendly services like wet cleaning. Keep clean while you go green!

Feature photo by mikebaird. Photo above by birdfreak.com.

Some locations have just the right balance of climate, topography, and remoteness for attracting amazing avian diversity. Here are our top 10:

1. Amazon Rainforest

The scene evokes classic war imagery. A marching army pillages smaller and weaker communities, sending them fleeing as they get taken out by flying killing machines.

But this isn’t war; this is the ever-fascinating food chain and my favorite natural spectacle. Legions of army ants, one million strong, march across the rainforest floor, devouring every bug in their path. Those lucky enough to escape get swooped up by birds. The aptly-named antbirds descend upon army ant swarms, providing great close-up views for birders.

2. New Guinea

New Guinea is home to my favorite bird species, bowerbirds. Rather than sporting brilliant breeding plumages to attract females, bowerbirds construct elaborate bachelor pads decorated with color-coordinated trinkets from the forest floor.

They paint the walls with chewed berries and line the avenue with parrot feathers, shells, and flowers. With utmost precision, bowerbirds constantly rearrange the décor and strut for the female. This is way more interesting than any TV home makeover show!

3. Veracruz, Mexico

With hundreds of thousands of raptors swarming overhead, the skies of Veracruz are the site of the largest raptor migration in the world. More than 5 million raptors make up the River of Raptors each fall, including most of the world’s population of Broad-winged Hawks, Swainson’s Hawks, and Mississippi Kites.

Models of energy efficiency, raptors often glide on thermals rather than fly and flap. The thermals funnel the concentrated “kettle” of raptors between the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range and the Gulf of Mexico into Veracruz.

4. Aleutian Islands, Alaska

My only chance to see migratory ducks and pelagic birds at home is during winter when they are in their drab non-breeding plumages. But when they migrate to Alaska for the summer, they molt into spectacular breeding colors.

Summer in the Aleutian Islands is the time and place to see birds at their best and the air is filled with the haunting breeding call of the same Common Loons I saw at home in February.

5. Galapagos Islands

Having evolved without predators, the birds of the Galapagos harbor little fear of humans and allow birders to approach them. In fact, the safe environment helped cause the Galapagos Cormorant to lose the ability to fly. Walk the black and white sand beaches in search of the Blue-footed Booby, Magnificent Frigatebird, the courtship ritual of the Waved Albatross, and the world’s northernmost penguin.

Check out the infamous Galapagos finches that helped inspire Darwin’s theory of evolution.

A booby! Photo above by Max xx

6. Southern Texas

With more than 500 bird species, including species found nowhere else in the U.S., such as the Green Jay and Great Kiskadee, the lower Rio Grande Valley attracts birders from all over the world.

The World Birding Center recently opened 10,000 acres of habitat to birders. Two favorites are the Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park and the Great Texas Wildlife Trails.

7. Panama

Situated within the range of both North and South American species, Panama has nearly 1,000 bird species all wrapped up in a small, easy to travel package.

Hike the cloud forests of the Chiriqui Highlands in western Panama in search of the Resplendent Quetzal.

Drive the Pipeline Road along the Panama Canal Watershed where 300 species have been spotted in one day.

Trek into the unspoiled and roadless Darien National Park in eastern Panama to spot the world’s largest population of the wild-looking Harpy Eagle.

8. Southeastern Arizona

Situated at a confluence of mountains, canyons, forests, grasslands, and desert, the Upper San Pedro River Basin is rich in avian diversity. Find the Elegant Trogon at Ramsey Canyon and if you’re lucky, the Eared Trogon.

The Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve is home to the Gray Hawk and Green Kingfisher. Visit during the summer when monsoon rains green the desert and bring a flush of bird activity.

9. Northeastern Minnesota

Birding isn’t just for springtime. Winter brings five species of owl to northeastern Minnesota, including the elusive Snowy Owl.

Birders from around the world flocked to Sax-Zim Bog during the winter of 2004-2005 to witness a record-breaking “irruption” of thousands of Great Gray Owls, the largest North American owl, along with hundreds of Boreal and Northern Hawk Owls. Bring a heavy coat!

10. Serengeti, Africa

Meaning “endless plains” in the Masai language, the Serengeti is home to two endemic bird species, the Grey Breasted Spurfowl and the Fisher’s Lovebird.

The Ngorongoro crater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has 100 bird species not found in the rest of the Serengeti and holds the so-called big five game mammals—elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and buffalo—within its 2000 foot high walls. A blanket of flamingos turns the crater’s soda lakes pink.

Practical Tips

It’s easy to find birding tours of hotspots.

Hawkwatch International provides a Veracruz hawk tour in October.

Many places offer environmentally-friendly lodging that contributes to the local economy by hiring local bird guides. In Ecuador, I stayed at Tandayapa Lodge in the Andes cloud forests and Sacha Lodge in the Amazon Rainforest.

For an alternative to expensive tour guides, use the internet to find a local birder at your destination to be your birdwatching buddy. Or, take a self-guided tour using maps of the Great Texas Wildlife Trails.

Feature photo by Lola Akinmade. Photo above by Lola Akinmade.

Sure, Bermuda is known worldwide for its pristine pink beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters, but did you know that it’s also a spelunker’s paradise?

With a labyrinth of over 150 limestone cave systems boasting pristine azure blue pools and impressive stalactites and stalagmites, Bermuda’s unspoiled beauty may very well lie beneath the ground.

Spelunking, you say?

Spelunking, popularly known as caving, is the increasingly popular recreational sport of exploring caves. It may require you walk, climb or crawl through tight passages, zip or rappel down to different platforms, or even dive underwater.

The recent media resurgence of the Batman franchise has put the spotlight back on caving and more people are becoming recreational spelunkers.

Bermuda has one of the highest concentrations of limestone caves on earth, which have inspired many creative endeavors such as Jim Henson’s “Fraggle Rock” and Shakespeare’s “The Tempest.”

Many of these caves extend all the way down to the sea floor even though you can walk right in. Below are just a few caves you can explore on your next trip to the Island.

Photo above by Lola Akinmade.

1. Admiral’s Cave

Located in Hamilton Parish, Admiral’s Cave is one of the largest caves on the island and was named after a British admiral around 1819. Within the cave are small lakes that are fed from the ocean through underground passageways.

The Smithsonian Museum has discovered fossils here that are a couple hundred thousand years old. Although no longer a show cave with guided tours, you can explore at your own risk with a flashlight!

2. Cathedral Cave

One of the two caves located on the properties of the Grotto Bay resort, Cathedral Cave boasts clear turquoise underground lakes which you can swim in to cool off. Explore this lit cave from viewing platforms. There’s also a launch off spot should you decide to take the plunge.

3. Church Cave

Church Cave is located deep beneath Ship’s Hill on the grounds of the Marriott Castle Harbour Resort in Hamilton Parish. It contains the largest underground lake in Bermuda with an area of 16,146 square feet and a depth of 74 feet.

Photo by gcourbis

Its sister cave, Bitumen Cave, contains the deepest underground lake on the entire island at 84 feet deep.

4. Crystal Caves

One of the most famous and visited caves in Bermuda, Crystal Caves was said to have been discovered by two 12-year old boys, Carl Gibbons and Edgar Hollins, in 1905 when they went looking for their lost cricket ball.

Laced with million year old immaculate white stalagmites and stalactites and crystal clear pools with a visible depth of 55 ft, Crystal Caves provides guided tours and wooden floating pontoon walkways for your exploration.

5. Devil’s Hole

Once a subterranean cave, its roof collapsed, turning the cave into a natural aquarium. Today, it contains sea life such as sharks, 6 foot long Moray eels, and turtles and has been opened to the public since 1843.

Photo by morgansutherland

It earned the moniker “Devil’s Hole” because when its roof collapsed and wind rushed into the cave, it produced an eerie sound that locals referred to as moans of the devil. It is located in Harrington Sound.

6. Fantasy Caves

Fantasy Caves, a sister cave to Crystal Caves, is the more spectacular of the two cave systems with impressive formations. Its walls are lined with mineral deposits that look like frozen waterfalls, and the cave is connected to and fed by the Atlantic Ocean through deep pools with underground pathways.

7. Green Bay Caves

Boasting about 2 km of underground passageways, Green Bay Caves is longest cave systems on the island. It is totally submerged with an average depth of 59 feet below sea level, so you may want to get your scuba diving gear on!

Photo by Lola Akinmade.

8. Leamington Caves

Another impressive and wildly popular limestone cave, Leamington Caves near Harrington Sound boasts crystal formations and underground pools.

9. Prospero’s Cave

The second cave located on the property of Grotto Bay Resort, this cave is chock full of stalagmites and stalactites.

Originally discovered between 1609 and 1610 by Sir George Somers, the cave is also known as Island Cave or Prospero’s Magic Cave.

Named after the famed Shakespearean character from “The Tempest,” Prospero is one of the more spectacular caves and it houses a deep, clear blue lake in addition to a bar and discotheque.

10. Wilkinson Cave

Photo by numb3r

Discovered in 2002 during a quarry blasting operation, Wilkinson Cave is the newest cave to be unearthed on the island. Like the other caves, it is filled with massive stalactites and stalagmites, crystals, an impressive sea level pool as well as underwater sub caves.

It is currently being researched by American Cave Expert and Professor of Marine Biology, Dr. Tom Iliffe, who explored the cave in depth. Wilkinson Cave is years away from becoming a major tourist attraction.

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As with any adventure sport, exploring or diving Bermuda’s caves can be dangerous. It is always best to check with local government and tourism offices to make sure that the caves above are still open for public exploration.

Feature photo by almac. Photo above by Frederick Roeber

Cage Dive in South Africa

Submerse yourself underwater and see what it feels like to watch a Great White Shark look right back at you. The world’s largest predatory fish, Great Whites attack their prey once and then let it bleed to death.

But their “Jaws” reputation is not deserved as they typically only attack humans if they mistake one for a seal.

Peak diving season is April through December at Shark Alley near Gansbaai. By the way—the latest trend is to cage dive with Nile Crocodiles, offered only at the Cango Ranch in Oudtshoorn in the Western Cape.

Camping Safari in Kenya

Photo by James

Walk among Africa’s deadly “Big 5”—elephant, leopard, lion, rhinoceros, and buffalo. Camp at the Selenkay and Kigio Conservation Areas instead of the major national parks because these particular conservation areas support the local Masai community.

Take 4WD vehicles to the famous Amboseli and Nakuru National Parks and the Mara Reserve. Thousands of wildebeest migrate across the savannas from June through September.

Tundra Buggy in Canada

Get within inches of polar bears on frozen tundra aboard the Tundra Buggy . Bears congregate along the Hudson Bay during October and November to hunt for their favorite food, the ringed seal.

Photo by earthnative

Cape Churchill is not accessible by road so you will fly in from Winnipeg and stay at the Tundra Buggy Lodge. You can feel good that the company supported a study to evaluate and help mitigate tourism’s impact upon the bears.

River Cruise in Australia

On a cruise along the Mary River in northern Australia last June, we rode up to dozens of sunbathing saltwater crocodiles. The largest existing reptiles, “salties” are one of the deadliest animals to humans, with several reported fatalities per year.

These crocs are known to eat humans and typically drown prey or clamp down with one ton of pressure per square inch.

Dive the Australian Coast

For the intrepid adventurer who doesn’t need a cage, deadly creatures abound at the Great Barrier Reef . Swim within inches of the venomous stonefish and blue-ringed octopus.

The sting of the box jellyfish kills more humans in Australia than snakes, sharks, and saltwater crocodiles. Stinger season is November through February. Don’t worry if you aren’t a certified diver— introductory dives are available. For visually-challenged folks, prescription goggles are available to accommodate even the worst astigmatism.

Seaplane Safari in Alaska

Photo by carlchapman

Get within 100 feet of a grizzly bear on a seaplane safari around the glaciers and volcanoes of Alaska. In July, the seaplane takes you to Brooks River Falls in Katmai National Park to watch grizzlies go fishing at the world’s largest salmon run. Grizzly bears are not named for their aggressive nature but for the grizzled appearance of their white-tipped fur.

Paddle in South America

Photo by gerej

On an evening paddle across Pilchicocha’s Lake in the Amazon Rainforest in August, our guide threw his hand into the water with such speed that it made everyone gasp. He had reached for an anaconda swimming in our path!

It was, of course, a juvenile anaconda. An adult anaconda strangles its prey with its more than 30-foot-long and 200-pound body.

Trek in Australia

Get up close to the Guinness Book of Records’ most dangerous bird—the cassowary—on the Wet Tropics Great Walk in Queensland. WWII soldiers fell victim to the dagger-like claws of the six-foot-tall bird.

Watch for the coastal taipan, one of the most venomous snakes in the world, whose penchant for rats brings it into proximity of humans. Visit April to October during the tropical dry season.

Community Connection

Choose your tour wisely. Some companies tranquilize or feed wildlife to guarantee a close encounter while others degrade the habitat. Airboats torpedo through sensitive wetlands and boat propellers can injure animals.

Consider seeing wildlife and traveling through a volunteer program at a wildlife conservancy.

Finally, keep in mind that many animals such as the cassowary and polar bear are endangered or threatened, and that despite their ferocious reputations, they only attack out of self defense. In general, habituating animals to humans through close encounters is often the cause of fatal attacks.

And sadly, as in the case of the Grizzly Man, Timothy Treadwell, the habituated animal is usually destroyed.

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Somewhere between the thick, smoggy excitement of Bangkok and the extravagant white-sand brilliance of the Andaman Coast hide the remnants of one of the world’s oldest rainforests.

Since 1980, Khao Sok National Park has guarded 739 square kilometers of this unique environment, doggedly proving that Southern Thailand is more than beach bungalows and full moon parties.

History and Layout

Nestled within a mountainous region in the southwest of Surat Thani province, Khao Sok’s jungle ecosystem formed as early as 160 million (yes, million!) years ago.

Combining characteristics of both rainforests and tropical evergreen forests, this truly ancient landscape overflows with misty limestone cliffs, waterfalls, and the cries of rare animals.

Khao Sok connects with a handful of other parks and wildlife reserves to total 3,000 square kilometers of protected wilderness.

Interestingly, it was communist insurgents who helped ensure this preservation.

In the 1970s, they set up camp amid the dense jungle and imposing karts of Khao Sok, and in the process of fighting off the Thai Army they also kept out loggers and miners eager to make off with the area’s natural resources.

Conservation unfortunately gave way to modern necessity in 1982 with the construction of the Ratchaprapha Dam. The resultant Chao Lan Reservoir, spanning 165 square kilometers to the north of the park, is now a huge tourism draw, but much of the native wildlife was less than thrilled about it.

Attempts were made to capture and relocate animals in the area, without much success; 52 of the river’s fish species were lost.

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Khao Sok lies off Highway 401, 120 km west of the town of Surat Thani and just 60 km from Takua Pa on the northern Andaman Coast.

From the highway (km 109), a short road winds down to the actual park entrance where admission fees are collected.

It’s along this stretch that you’ll find most of the guesthouses, with the thickest cluster surrounding the bridge over the Sok River. Additional options are sprinkled here and there down other nearby highway turnoffs.

Tigers and bears and…flowers? Oh my!

Left undisturbed by natural and, to some extent, human forces for millions of years, Khao Sok is home to an incredible diversity of plant and animal species.

Elephants, tigers, barking deer, sun bears, and cobras are just a few. Pythons as thick as your thigh have been spotted in the deep jungle.

While you’re certain to see some spectacular wildlife during your stay, keep in mind that most animals stay well away from established trails, and many are nocturnal. Birders will likely have better luck.

But Khao Sok’s most famous resident is much less elusive. Flowers of the genus Rafflesia are the largest in the world and are found in only a scattering of locations around Southeast Asia.

Perched atop some of the park’s high ridges are groupings of one Rafflesia species. They bloom from November to March, giving off an odor of rotting meat to attract flies for pollination. One week after they open, they die.

These flowers are extremely rare and sensitive to disturbance. Remember to keep your distance, no matter how badly you want to get that perfect macro shot.

Rafflesia, Photo by Hal Amen

Exploration

Hiking, whether to see the flowers or simply to take in the diverse sights of the jungle, is a rewarding experience in Khao Sok. The mountainous terrain offers routes of varying lengths and difficulties.

If you prefer to do your trekking on the back of an elephant, that can also be arranged.

The porous limestone underlying the forest gives shape to some impressive caves. Depending on water levels, it’s possible to either walk or swim through some of them.

However, this can be dangerous: in October of 2007, six tourists and their two guides died in a cave during a flash flood. Make sure you have proper gear and that your guides know their stuff.

River tours are another popular activity. Guided kayak, canoe, and raft trips aren’t terribly exhilarating, but you’re sure to spy plenty of mangrove snakes and baby pythons hanging in the branches canopied above you. There’s always a place to take a refreshing dip, as well.

For a true lounging experience, rent a tube and let the river current do its thing. Just don’t try this when the water is low, or you’ll wind up stumbling through ankle-deep pools on foot.

Khao Sok Tree House Resort, Photo by Hal Amen

Various boating excursions are available on the reservoir, where the karst cliffs spike out of the water like knife blades and your chances of seeing wildlife are slightly higher.

The park operates three clusters of floating guesthouses on remote sections of the lake, accessible by motorboat.

Most of these activities require a guide. This goes for hiking as well, as many of the longer trails are unmarked and getting lost would be very bad news indeed.

Numerous operators offer tours, ranging from afternoon outings to multi-day, all-inclusive packages that provide transport from Phuket, Krabi, etc. and allow you to partake of everything listed above.

There are two alternatives when arranging a tour. Your first is to book through one of the big-name companies, either online or at a tourist center on the west coast. Some popular names include Limestone Lake Rainforest Tours, Siam Inter Tour, and, with a focus on canoe/kayak tours, PaddleAsia and Sea Canoe Thailand.

Otherwise, simply book through your guesthouse once you get to the park. Art’s Riverview Lodge and Our Jungle House are used by tour groups and therefore see lot of traffic, but they get mixed reviews.

Better for the independent traveler are any of the places along the road just before the main park entrance, such as Khao Sok Tree House Resort. Each should have similar tour opportunities on tap, as well as an onsite restaurant. Even if yours does meals, Thai Herb Restaurant by the river bridge deserves a visit.

Khao Sok, Photo by Hal Amen

Climate

Khao Sok is the wettest place in the whole country, its berth in the Phuket Mountains square in the sights of both the Indian and Pacific monsoons.

Your best bet for sunny skies is between December and April, though there will still be sporadic showers most days.

Expect your fair share of run-ins with six- and eight-legged creatures. Just remember to keep it in perspective: those huge spiders chilling in your guesthouse bathroom and that leach clamped onto your ankle (don’t freak out, they’re harmless!) are simply testaments to the rainforest’s explosion of life.

Arriving and Departing

Khao Sok is the perfect stopover between Bangkok and the Andaman Coast, and buses and minivans travel direct to the park from both Surat Thani and Phuket.

Public buses connect these two locales as well, and you can arrange for the driver to drop you at the turnoff for the park on Highway 401. This will give you more freedom to survey and choose from the many guesthouses.

Community Connection!

Many Matador members are in Southeast Asia right now!

The intrepid Noellejt wrote some beautiful blogs about her time at the best little cooking school in Thailand.

Voralak is a writer based in Bangkok who wrote about the islands of Trang in southern Thailand in an earlier guide for Matador Trips. Dane, another Bangkok based writer, recently wrote a great article about the luxury of time for Brave New Traveler.

Compash is the founder of a permaculture farm and natural building center near Chiang Mai. Nora Dunn is traveling in Thailand and Malaysia…

Matador is blossoming. Click here to join today.

Machu Picchu, Photo by Richard McColl

The fable of an El Dorado shrouded in early morning mists draws hundreds of Patagonia-clad pilgrims of all shapes, sizes and ages to Machu Picchu every day.

Machu Picchu is the most oversubscribed trek in the Andes and for good reason.

You need a little physical conditioning, the right gear, some enthusiastic guides and the warmness of the solidarity of the other hikers, but with preparation and good humor, the trek to Machu Picchu is one of the most rewarding journeys in the world.

Don’t get me wrong, this trek is not all peaches and cream. The Inca Trail requires crossing summits of 4200m and descending over unequal Incan paving. You would be well advised to hit the gym for at least a few weeks before your trip.</