Dubai: A Damning Portrait

11/12/09  Print This Post Print This Post    11 Comments   Popular   Written by Hal Amen
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Dubai construction cranes

Photo above: octal, Feature photo: Joi

Slave labor, oblivious expats, environmental collapse. Is this the real Dubai?

Slow to the punch, I was recently directed to an article from The Independent published in April of this year: The dark side of Dubai.

It’s the story of a failed experiment in city/utopia building, where the global economic crisis has emptied malls and hotels and halted nearly all construction — this in a city that gave rise to the oft-repeated (and oft-debunked) factoid that it employees a quarter of the world’s construction cranes.

According to the article, Dubai has failed not only economically, but also socially. Emiratis (who make up just 5% of the population) are educated up to the PhD level at no cost, while armies of impoverished foreign laborers live in bondage and lack clean drinking water. Anyone who raises a critical voice is deported (expats), financially ruined (Emiratis), or imprisoned (foreign workers).

Jaw Dropped

It’s a shocking account. And it’s almost too much to believe.

I’ll admit my immediate reaction leaned toward skepticism. Part of it is that — to me — Johann Hari’s writing comes off scripted, the neatly framed and overly witty words of someone who knew what he wanted to write before he stepped off the plane.

And part of it is that I simply hope the picture he paints isn’t accurate.

* A slave labor system where South Asian construction workers and East African housekeepers are lured to Dubai by third-party recruiters, only to have their passports confiscated, promised wages halved or withheld, and every waking hour conscripted.

* A body of expats that delight in the hedonism the socioeconomic order allows them, living with a constant buzz on and complaining that there are too many Indians throwing themselves in front of their SUVs in a last-ditch effort to escape the system.

* An ocean — Dubai’s biggest tourist draw — darkened with raw sewage as the delicate, super-arid environment begins to collapse under the weight of forced modernity.

Please tell me these caricatures were lifted from some sci-fi dystopia, not the streets of reality.

Speak Up

Matador Abroad’s Tim Patterson already put out a call for on-the-ground voices from Dubai. I’d like to renew that invitation — though, if The Independent’s article is any indication, those voices will probably need to be “recently-left-the-ground.”

Have you traveled to or lived in Dubai? How does your experience square with The Independent’s exposé of the city’s “dark side“?

Speak up in the comments, or email me directly at hal[at]matadornetwork[dot]com to discuss telling your story in a Trips feature.


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About the Author

Matador ID: halamen

Freelance writer and Trips co-editor Hal Amen is currently in the midst of a volunteer year in South America. Find tales of this and other adventures on his personal travel blog, WayWorded.

11 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Daniel Nahabedian replied on November 12, 2009

    I have lived in Abu Dhabi for 23 years, and visited Dubai many many times every month..

    I am afraid to say that there is a lot of truth inside this article and that the facade that Dubai built to attract people and claim itself as being a haven for foreigners IS crumbling to show the horrors behind.
    Yes third world workers are lured by companies and have their passports confiscated.. I know it well, I have worked for 5 years in the HR dept of a local company (getting paid 100€ per month, working under the sun, no passport, and holidays only every 24 months)..

    Yes also the expats that live there begin to change into heartless arrogant people that appreciate it (true example) when a shopping mall passes a rule that forbids indians and pakistanis to enter inside their locals.. no entrance to those same people that spent years building it!

    Dubai was a huge mascarade hiding too many problems behind their shiny brand new buildings.

    And yes, I have lived there enough to know about it!

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    • Hal Amen replied to Daniel Nahabedian on November 12, 2009

      This is sweet, Daniel. Thanks for confirming the story with your eyewitness account.

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  • Abbie replied on November 12, 2009

    I had no idea. That’s terrible!

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  • Michelle replied on November 12, 2009

    Wow. I had no idea as well. This is horrible.

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  • Julie replied on November 12, 2009

    Hal-

    Thanks for this piece. I’ve never been there, but there was an excellent long feature in the NYT Magazine about a year ago about this very issue, focusing primarily on the immigrant workers. Reports of passport seizure were rampant, according to the author, as were slave labor wages, no benefits (of course), and what seemed like the impossibility of returning home.

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  • Travelin' Mike replied on November 13, 2009

    I first heard of these stories a couple years ago and now they slowly seem to be getting more frequent. How long is it going to be before this is no longer accepted and someone is held accountable?

    I know I certainly won’t be supporting Dubai by spending my money there…

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  • Baxter replied on November 13, 2009

    It’s true – check out my video ‘I Dubai Declare’ on YouTube to get a peak into what I saw there.

    I Dubai Declare
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXNrxP3thdE

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  • Linda replied on November 13, 2009

    Recently watched a video about a photographer documenting the trafficking of women in Dubai. At the end of her stay, her hotel room is ransacked and most of her film and footage stolen. Her videographer manages to sneak out some tapes (since they are stopped when leaving the country).

    Of course, now I can’t find that link, but I’ll ask my friend to resend it to me if anyone’s interested.

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  • Linda replied on November 14, 2009

    http://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/rough/2007/09/dubai_sex_for_s.html

    It’s about 10 minutes long. I have a hard time committing to anything longer than about 2:44, but this was interesting.

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  • Dijana replied on November 17, 2009

    A cuople a weeks ago i’ve seen a ducumentary on this subject, and i have one thing to say; I will never go to Dubai!!!!. Its sad that even in “modern times” this things still happening in the world, yet we all know about it, but still what can we “ordinary” people do to prevent or to stop it.

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