Eat, Pray, Love in Morocco

06/10/09  Print This Post Print This Post    9 Comments   Popular   Written by Beebe Bahrami
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Smiling Moroccan

Photo above and feature photo: Gret@Lorenz

A country of four mountain ranges, two long coastlines, and desert, Morocco doesn’t need to try very hard to be diverse in its culinary arts, sacred spots, and romantic settings.
Tasty Cuisine

Rabat and Fez are the best places for serious culinary explorations. While Rabat is the most modern and comfortable Moroccan city, Fez is traditional and fascinating. Both offer perfect moods for culinary adventures and both have attracted some of the best chefs in the country.

Some might argue that Marrakech is also a great culinary destination — and I wouldn’t disagree — but what’s happening in Rabat and Fez goes beyond catering to tourists and is directed at locals as well.

Here are some unique Moroccan culinary experiences worth seeking out:

White truffles

Moroccan spices

Photo: Gret@Lorenz

You can find these for sale along the road from Rabat to Meknes.

Artfully stacked on overturned buckets, they’re sold near oak trees growing in a special soil that stimulates the symbiotic relationship between the truffle and the oak roots.

Argan oil

A specialty of Morocco. It’s a toasty, nutty oil, traditionally derived from a complex process: the undigested pits of the Argan fruit, after being eaten by tree-climbing goats, are picked from the animals’ dung, then cleaned and toasted.

Next, the pits are ground or pressed and the oil is bottled for culinary uses or further processed for cosmetic creams and ointments.

But worry not, today the oil is produced in a more sanitary way. Its taste is a cross between peanut oil and freshly mashed green olives — an absolutely delicious way to dress a salad.

Saffron

Taliouine — south of Marrakech — offers a unique twist to the more commonly available Spanish and Iranian saffrons. The saffron of Taliouine has its own flavor due to southern Morocco’s soil makeup.

Wine

The Meknes Valley yields the finest Moroccan wine, which has come a long way. While wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times, in the past twenty years the industry has begun to make certain vintages that wine lovers the world over would gladly add to their cellars.

A particular favorite of mine is Château Roslane Premier Cru from A.O.C. Les Coteaux de l’Atlas.

Escargot

Steamed and ladled cups of brothy escargot are a fun snack that you will most likely see on the street at night.

People gather around the snail seller’s cart and sip and nibble on these hot little striped-shell delicacies.

Sacred Experiences

The biggest challenge to travel in Morocco is that non-Muslim visitors are not allowed into mosques and shrines, with the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca being the exception.

Yet, the natural beauty of Morocco more than makes up for this and possesses what my Moroccan friend Saadia would call “the Big Waloo” — the Big Nothing — as in total, pure divine presence.

From ocean vista to mountain pass to the Big Waloo of the rosy-orange desert dunes of the south, the natural world’s sacred is open to all. You can take your pick following your own preferences.

For ocean-lovers, explore the Atlantic coast from Asilah to Essaouira.

Sand dunes

Photo: Rosino

If you’re into mountains, anywhere in the interior — from north to south — gives way to great views whose only sign of human habitation comes from the shepherds and their brown-faced sheep, black goats, and sturdy donkeys.

Those who hear the desert’s call should head south to Merzouga and ride on a camel trek into the dunes.

For a rare chance at experiencing Moroccan sacred traditions as a local, come to Fez in June and July for The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music, when sacred spaces otherwise closed to visitors open their doors throughout the city.

Another similar music festival unfolds annually in Essaouira in June: The Gnaoua and World Music Festival.

Romantic Locales

Asilah and Essaouira command a romantic air, with their oceanside settings and well-established art scenes. These are also two cities with an open, international mood that makes them relaxing.

Asilah is smaller and a bit more intimate, while Essaouira has more expansive possibilities. Both have the dramatic backdrop of fortified old towns against the great watery blue of the Atlantic.

Rabat is Morocco’s most mellow and cosmopolitan city, one that invites visitor interaction with the locals. Numerous cafes offer comfortable places for men and women to enjoy a cup of tea or coffee.

Couple in the streets

Photo: Vibragiel

Seaside Rabat’s medieval neighborhood, the walled medina, is a welcoming place to walk, shop, and talk to artisans carving or painting wood or working silver and gold.

Finally, the Roman ruins of Volubilis, the Roman provincial capital of this part of Africa (and known in Arabic as Walili), is worth a mention.

Its romantic appeal lies in the beautiful Meknes Valley that surrounds it, and in the ancient stones and mosaics of the old city.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Other guides in the Eat, Pray, Love series can be found on Portugal and Spain.

Three more articles that will satiate your food, spirit, and love needs are The World’s Best Cities for Late Night Food, How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World, and The Romantic’s Cheap Guide to Southern France.


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About the Author

Matador ID: beebe

Beebe Bahrami is a widely published freelance writer and cultural anthropologist and a frequent contributor to Matador. Her book, The Spiritual Traveler Spain: A Guide to Sacred Sites and Pilgrim Routes, is available through Amazon.com and other online or an-the-ground booksellers.

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9 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Colin Wright replied on June 10, 2009

    It looks beautiful! Have you found there to be any other religious hang-ups than the ‘no-non-Muslims in the mosque’ rule? I imagine it’s smart to dress conservatively, especially if you are a woman, but I’m wondering if you have any other little tid-bits that might be useful for first time visitors.

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  • Powered by Tofu replied on June 10, 2009

    I loved Morocco! Mint tea would be on my list too. :)

    (Yeah, Colin, it really helped to dress conservatively. The only other religious thing I can think of is in respect to alcohol and Islam. They sell alcohol, but it’s not condoned. So if you’re the kind of person who would be partying it up in Thailand, be a little discreet about your alcohol consumption.)

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  • Kathy replied on June 10, 2009

    Over the past few years I have been to Morocco half a dozen times and find the country and people to be very tourist – foreigner friendly. I have traveled alone and in groups, in the major cities and the Sahara villages and have not experienced any problems. Yes, there are the occasional comments and inappropriate touches in a crowd. Not much worse that you might experience in any crowded situation in the States. Overall, respect the culture, dress a bit on the conservative side and be open to have a wonderful experience learning about the people, culture and history. They are warm, curious and welcoming people.

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  • joshywashington replied on June 10, 2009

    This post has me hungry, ready to book a flight and a little lonely all at the same time…Morocco anyone?

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  • Elvira replied on June 11, 2009

    I would love to travel to Morocco one day. However, I have been told on a several occasions that the airports procedures can spoil the whole experience. While at UK airports you have to pack all liquids (including solid creams and parfumes) in a luggage, at Marrakech you are not allowed to even come into the airport with
    any liquids whatsoever anywhere in your luggage. They apparently open all your bags before the check in. Which means that not only you will say goodbye to all of your own cosmetic posession, but it also means you can’t buy morrocan oils, parfumes, etc. which I’d love to buy if I’d go there.

    So, did few of my friends had a bad luck or is it true for everyone? Some of them managed to bring oils through by paying a bribe, but that is not good for me.

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  • Hal Amen replied on June 11, 2009

    Tentative plans for Morocco next spring. This is a great primer!

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  • brian from nodebtworldtravel.com replied on June 13, 2009

    Elvira not sure what your friends were carrying or what sizes but my friend and I did not experience that at all in Morocco. We passed thru Casablanca onto Marrakesh and never saw that.

    Possible somebody could have been holding your friends up for a bribe.

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  • Beebe Bahrami replied on June 14, 2009

    Hi Colin, There really aren’t any religious “hang-ups” in Morocco. The desire to have no non-Muslims in the mosques is to keep these spaces for serious worship and sanctuary. It also goes back to the French Protectorate period to allow one place where Moroccans could meet without the eyes and ears of the foreign occupation. For the respectful spiritual traveler, though, it is a shame that they cannot enjoy the peace and calm of these places. As for dress, you are correct, indeed both women and men should dress modestly. Moroccan men also do not go around showing a lot of skin.

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  • Dee Andrews replied on November 5, 2009

    I recently returned from a wonderful trip to Morocco with my husband and two daughters, ages 7 and 10. My biggest discovery was that the concerns and fears I had were overly apprehensive. I suppose we all fear the unknown to some degree, and I was happy that I conquered my anxiety and experienced this country firsthand. It was an amazing experience for our family, and I truly felt little anxiety while there. Overwhelmed, yes, but in a sensory way… the food, smells, sounds, colors are brilliant! Go!

    You can see my pictures here: http://travelandtravails.com/traveling-with-kids/morocco-pictures/

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