Photo Essay: Iceland’s Fire and Ice

08/21/09  Print This Post Print This Post    21 Comments   Popular   Written by Paul Sullivan
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Matador editor-at-large Paul Sullivan treats us to some of his landscape shots from the fascinating country of Iceland.
Highway No. 1 - A Road Through Nature

1. Iceland’s main road (the “1″) is around 800 miles long and circles the entire country. Since there is very little traffic on this island of 300,000 souls, not to mention a distinct lack of vegetation and wildlife, much of the time there’s just the country’s majestic nature — lava fields, glaciers, streams, lakes, and huge lichen-covered mountains — for company.

Northern Lights at Snaefellsnes

2. If you’re lucky you might even see the famous Northern Lights (aurora borealis). This photo was taken on a trip around the Snaefellsnes glacier, one of the most stunning areas of Iceland and just a 2-3 hour drive out of Reykjavik.

Mountain and Horses, Snaefellsnes

3. Another scene from Snaefellsnes, this time taken during sunset. Due to its low population, much of Iceland is quintessentially rural, though with a crazy volcanic twist that makes the landscapes highly distinctive and memorable. Ever seen sheep or horses grazing peacefully in a lunar-style lava field? You will here…

Horses

4. Speaking of horses, the Icelandic breed is world famous. They’re generally small — pony-sized in fact — and have special gaits. Fun fact: laws prevent animals from being imported to Iceland or returning to the country after they’ve been exported.

Fjords

5. Another very special (and largely under-acknowledged) area in Iceland are the Westfjords. The oldest part of the island geologically, they’ve developed a unique community. Travel up here can be tough due to the deep, winding fjords. On the upside you’ll often feel like you’re driving through a fairy tale.

More Fjords

6. A great time to visit the Westfjords is in April or May when there’s still a good chance of snow on the mountains, but when the roads are generally clear (they can be closed off during winter). Snow-based activities in the area include ice fishing, snowmobiling, and spontaneous snowman making.

Cracked House

7. The Westfjords region has generally been in decline since WWII and the fall-off of the fishing industries. Yet the tourist infrastructure is excellent and though many residents literally abandoned their houses and moved to Reykjavik for work, many others have kept second homes here.

Grey mountain

8. In harsher weather you can see and feel how bleak the Westfjords (and other remote parts of Iceland) can be. Yet even foreboding skies, whiplash winds, and driving rain can’t strip the country of its inherent and often unexpected beauty. The dominant forces of nature are felt everywhere.

Akureyri & Bluebells

9. On the other hand, Iceland is an absolute delight in summer. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not cold during spring, summer, or even (sometimes) autumn. In fact, temperatures are generally at European levels, give or take a few degrees. But don’t forget that the farther north you go, the less nighttime you’re going to get. Akureyri (pictured here from across the fjord), is the second largest city after Reykjavik with 10,000 inhabitants. It’s a popular place due to its exquisite setting, nearby whale-watching tours (in Husavik), and proximity to major natural attractions such as Lake Myvatn.

Akureyri Coast, Lundey Island

10. The coastline in Iceland’s north is fascinating with its strange mix of luminous green lichen, steep cliffs, and sky-wide vistas. This shot was taken near Husavik, one of the great whale-watching centers of the world. In the background is Lundey Island, home to a multitude of bird life including puffins, black guillemots, fulmars, and arctic terns.

Lake Myvatn

11. Lake Myvatn, an hour or so from Akureyri, is one of Iceland’s most beautiful and mysterious areas. A mesmerizing array of lava lakes, bubbling geothermal areas, and volcanic craters, it’s unlikely you’ll forget a trip here in a hurry. It really is like paying a visit to the moon (well, presumably. And with a bit more water).

Hverjfall Crater

12. To the east of the Myvatn area lies the formidable Hverfjall. A kilometer in circumference, this looming black volcanic crater was formed around 2,500 years ago.

Hverfall Crater 2

13. A wider view of Hverfjall takes in grazing horses, parts of Lake Myvatn, a snow-capped glacier, and the region’s famed geothermal resources, which power the Myvatn Nature Baths — or the northern Blue Lagoon as it’s known. This thoroughly modern spa area (see the building with the blue roof) has mineral-rich geothermal water, a cafeteria, three natural steam baths, and a 5000-sq.-meter geothermal bathing pool maintained at a constant temperature of 38-40ºC. Sploosh.

Hverarönd Geo Thermal Region

14. You can also see the bizarre formations created by that geothermal activity up close at Hverarönd, a collection of bubbling sulfuric mud, clay springs, and steaming rocks. Remember what I was saying about the lack of darkness in summer? This photo was taken at 11pm.

Community Connection

While in Iceland, take part in their version of a pub crawl. Find out How to Drink on the Reykjavik Runtur.

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About the Author

Paul Sullivan

Paul Sullivan has been a freelance writer and photographer since 2000. Operating primarily in the realm of music, travel, lifestyle, and culture, his work has taken him around the world. His work has appeared in/on the BBC, Dazed and Confused, DrownedInSound, Electronic Beats, The Face, The Guardian, DJ, Intelligent Life, iDJ, fRoots, The Independent, Observer Music Monthly, National Geographic Music, Time Out, Wax Poetics, The Wire, and others. He currently lives in Berlin.

21 Comments... join the discussion!

  • João Almeida replied on August 21, 2009

    Great essay, makes wanna go back to Iceland!

    Iceland is a haven for photographers due to the dramatic landscape and great light throughout the day.

    (and for some shameless self-promotion, my own icelandic set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/t3mujin/sets/72157607556254648/)

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  • Turner replied on August 21, 2009

    Beautiful, Paul.

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  • Megan Hill replied on August 21, 2009

    Amazing! Thanks for fueling some serious wanderlust this morning!

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  • Julie replied on August 21, 2009

    Wow- love the idea of a 800 mile road around the island. And that house is strangely compelling.

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  • Alan replied on August 21, 2009

    Awesome pictures. Iceland is definitely a place I want to visit.

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  • Stephanie replied on August 21, 2009

    Beautiful! I was in Iceland in June, driving the Ring Road and I saw a lot of the places you describe (particularly remember the purple lupines growing everywhere). It was a bit chilly; in the 50’s or 60’s during our stay but the almost 24 hours of sunlight was something to see.

    Thanks for the nostalgia trip…

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  • Tasha replied on August 21, 2009

    Lovely! I spent a month there this summer and it looks like the moon!

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  • Carlo Alcos replied on August 21, 2009

    More fuel for the fire! One day…

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  • Charlane Brady replied on August 21, 2009

    Your shots are amazing…I’ve been living here now for 2 years and you have certainly captured the beauty of Iceland.
    Cheers,
    Charlane

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  • Mikala Taylor replied on August 21, 2009

    Stunning stuff, Paul. I’ve been to Iceland, Reykjavik and mostly around the south, several times. It’s an amazing place, one of my favourites on earth. I look forward to returning and getting to the more remote spots. Beautiful essay, thanks.

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  • Paul Sullivan replied on August 22, 2009

    Thanks for all your comments guys. Glad you liked the shots, but truly if you take a camera to Iceland and travel outside Reykjavik, you can’t fail to stumble across lots of heart-wrenching beauty. Go for it!

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  • Michelle replied on August 22, 2009

    Well…”breathtaking” is no longer a cliché.

    Gorgeous.

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  • Katie Hammel replied on August 22, 2009

    Absolutely stunning photos. I was there in mid-March. It was still in the high 30’s, low 40’s and grey most days but even then the country was just so beautiful. When i came back and friends made jokes about the how there are legends of elves in Iceland, my standard response was that if you had been to Iceland, and seen how amazing this place is, you’d probably believe in magical creatures too!

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  • Albertine Feurer-Young replied on August 23, 2009

    Hello Paul,

    I hope you read these comments. Absolutely stunning pictures. If I may ask, what camera/lenses did you use?

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  • Paul Sullivan replied on August 24, 2009

    Joao – looked through your Flickr set, really great shots, excellent light and composition skills. Congrats, thx for sharing.

    Hi Albertine, I use a Canon 5D with L series lenses, 17-40mm + 24-105mm for most of these I think…

    Katie – the Elf thing cracks me up. You’re right, it suits the country so well :)

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  • viktor replied on August 25, 2009

    hello yeah this place is okay for me hehe i am from iceland so i just know there are many visitors from all around the world who come to iceland and many actors too like gerard butler viggo morthensen harrison ford daniel graig and many others iceland is just so small country 300 000 people live there!

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  • Derek replied on August 31, 2009

    Great photos and commentary. Officially added to my “Places I’ve GOT to go” list. Thanks.

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  • Alexb replied on September 2, 2009

    Amazing photos! How beautiful.

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  • Lola replied on September 4, 2009

    Absolutely stunning photos Paul! Great stuff

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  • Hannah replied on September 4, 2009

    Hey guys any tips on combining Iceland with Norway, my partner and I are doing a RTW trip and will spend a while in UK (as we are from here originally) and quite fancy the trekking in Norway, but it will be april – may time I think. Any tips on airlines? Flight plans leaving from UK – Norway – Iceland – then either back to UK or onto US??

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  • bethany replied on September 21, 2009

    Beautiful and informative!
    you’re pretty cute too :)

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