Photo by Jenny Williams
Escape to the most laid-back island in the Caribbean Sea.
My boyfriend and I were walking too fast our first day on Caye Caulker.
“What de hurry, man?” teased a dark-skinned, dreadlocked youth, grinning from the shade of a dive shop. “On de Caulker, you go slow.”
It wasn’t just a suggestion, as we soon learned: “Go Slow” is the formal motto of the island. With the aid of swaying hammocks, cheap rum, and the sparkling green-blue waters of the Caribbean Sea, it’s not hard to see why.
Blissed-Out Belize
photo by Jenny Williams
Geographically, Belize and its islands belong to Central America, but Belizean people, music, and food are more closely aligned with the Caribbean than with neighboring Mexico or Guatemala.
English and Creole are the two lingua francas, and Belizean people claim a mixture of cultures as diverse as Mestizo, Maya, Creole, Garifuna, and Mennonite.
In Belize, Caye Caulker is second only to resort-y Ambergris Caye in terms of tourism, but it has retained a small-island vibe that’s second to none in terms of charm.
Except during the Christmas and Easter holidays, crowds are so minimal that it’s not uncommon to be the only guest at your hotel for days at a time.
The town is intimate enough that you’ll soon be on familiar terms with the waitress at your favorite breakfast haunt, and it’s developed enough to support Internet cafes and WiFi hotspots.
The island’s blissfully car-free streets are quiet except for the occasional hum of a golf cart, the leisurely rattle of a bicycle, the faint tune of a Bob Marley track, or the yap-yap of tiny dogs (the Chihuahua-to-person ratio here is off the charts).
Houses are splashed in brash tropical hues, electric yellows and blues and pinks; iguanas sun themselves along the roadsides and pelicans hover overhead.
Slow, Not Lazy
photo by Jenny Williams
Though it’s entirely possible to go so slow that you cease moving altogether except to rouse yourself for BBQ and booze, some of Caye Caulker’s best features do require a little motivation on your part—and they’re well worth it.
If you get bored here, it’s nobody’s fault but your own.
For adventure junkies, kite-boarding and wind-surfing lessons happen just offshore, and you can get your PADI open water certification for as little as $250 (one of the cheapest programs in the world).
Kayaks and fishing poles are available for rent, or you can organize a deep-sea fishing tour with any number of local operators. For nature-lovers, Swallow Caye hosts dozens of native birds, and Caulker conservation celebrity “Chocolate” Heredia runs highly recommended tours to see endangered manatees in nearby mangrove swamps.
Snorkeling at the world’s second-longest barrier reef is Caye Caulker’s main attraction.
The most popular trips include visits to Hol Chan Marine Reserve off Ambergris Caye (presenting up-close-and-personal encounters with sea turtles, Green Moray Eels, Spotted Eagle Rays and more), and Shark-Ray Alley, where you can swim with Nurse Sharks and giant stingrays.
Raggamuffin Tours operates excellent half-day and full-day snorkeling trips (including lunch, a real sailboat, and mixed-en-route rum punch on the ride home).
They also offer three-day sailing adventures from Caye Caulker to Placencia in Southern Belize, during which passengers make camp on uninhabited islands and get the chance to swim in pristine Caribbean waters.
If you’re only interested in white sandy beaches (and the inevitable spring break crowd), look elsewhere; while there are a few scattered swimming areas, most of the shoreline around the town is outfitted with rickety wooden piers to accommodate the many fishing and sailing boats.
Slow Food
photo by Jenny Williams
Meals will be your biggest expense on Caye Caulker, but if you’re willing to splurge, you can get heaping plates of freshly grilled seafood with veggies and other tasty side dishes along the beachfront (up to $10 per person).
Rose’s Café does great grills and sells ice-cold beer to boot. For special occasions, Habanero’s serves outstanding international and Belizean dishes ($15 to $30) in a rustic balcony setting.
Cheaper options include the Sandbox for burgers ($3.50) and Syd’s for Mexican fare ($2 burritos). A must for the budget-conscious, Glenda’s Bakery and Cafe serves delicious cinnamon rolls (25 cents) and scrumptious burritos ($1.50) out of a cozy blue house away from the main drag.
Slow Dancing
photo by Jenny Williams
The Lazy Lizard—right on the Split, where you can drink a beer while dipping your toes in the water—boasts sweet sunset views and great people-watching.
The cheapest mixed drinks, including the infamous Panty Ripper (pineapple juice and coconut rum), are made with Belizean rum and go half-price ($1.50) during happy hour.
Having conducted a thorough survey of Pina Coladas all over the island, I can confidently say that the Sandbox owns the number one spot; other good bets are Happy Lobster, Agave, and I-I.
The latter is also the best-known nightclub on the island, with three stories of solid reggae beats and a breezy rooftop with swings and hammocks; on a busy night, Oceanside Club can also give the ol’ I-I a run for its money.
Slow In Bed
There’s no shortage of clapboard hotels and beachside cabanas on Caye Caulker, though some options are far better than others.
Private cabanas on stilts ($15-25) offer respite from irksome sandflies, and be sure to check a few different rooms in each hotel, as windowless closet-sized holes sometimes cost the same as the ones with a view.
When a short visit turns into a week, and a week turns into months (as it did for me and my boyfriend), furnished apartments are widely available—just ask around.
Arrivals and Departures
Despite countless vows that you’re “leaving tomorrow,” there will actually come a day when it becomes necessary to rejoin the world beyond the Caye.
Ferries ($15 one way, 45 minutes long) run every few hours between Belize City and Caye Caulker, and from Caulker it’s not far to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye.
There’s an airstrip south of the main drag, but flights are pricey; you’re better off flying or busing in and out of Belize City and coming by boat.
For more information, Go Caye Caulker and Cyber Caye Caulker are good places to start, and Toucan Trail provides detailed listings for budget hotels across Belize.
Community Connection!
Matador traveler ameenehan makes some solid suggestions on her Seven Days in Belize trip guide.
I’m also happy to give advice or meet up if any travelers are headed this way—I’m living on Caye Caulker through June 2008, so send me a message through Matador and I’ll hook you up.
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24 Comments... join the discussion!
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You have just decided my next vacation. I’ve heard nothing but good things about Belize being just off the beaten path, and after this I’m sold. Thanks so much for this thorough, well-written piece.
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Hi Jenny,
Not only do I love all aspects of the Caribbean, but Belize is one of my top five favorite places to hang out. My last stay was for three weeks and I almost forgot my name, so understand about SLOW time in Belize. Enjoy your day in Paradise.↵ -
Thanks for your comments about Belize – one of my top five spots in the Caribbean. I was there last month and I can confirm that SLOW is the correct word. When I am there I usually forget my name. I have linked you to my latest blog posting and I am going to follow your adventures and see how things turn out. My objective everytime I get a new passport is to fill up every page with stamps before It needs to get renewed. My guess is you have a few stamps on yours, too. Enjoy your time in Belize.
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Hi Jenny,
Not only do I love all aspects of the Caribbean, but Belize is one of my top five favorite places to hang out. My last stay was for three weeks and I almost forgot my name, so understand about SLOW time in Belize. Enjoy your day in Paradise.↵ -
Thanks for your comments about Belize – one of my top five spots in the Caribbean. I was there last month and I can confirm that SLOW is the correct word. When I am there I usually forget my name. I have linked you to my latest blog posting and I am going to follow your adventures and see how things turn out. My objective everytime I get a new passport is to fill up every page with stamps before It needs to get renewed. My guess is you have a few stamps on yours, too. Enjoy your time in Belize.
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Hey all,
Glad you enjoyed the post!
@Daniel, drop me a line when you plan your trip–even if I'm not in Belize any longer (sigh), I might be able to send more tips your way, about the Cayes or other destinations in the country.
@Jim, sounds like you don't need any lessons in going slow! Thanks for the link, and may your passport pages always stay full…
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Hey all,
Glad you enjoyed the post!
@Daniel, drop me a line when you plan your trip–even if I’m not in Belize any longer (sigh), I might be able to send more tips your way, about the Cayes or other destinations in the country.
@Jim, sounds like you don’t need any lessons in going slow! Thanks for the link, and may your passport pages always stay full…
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Wow, I'm ever so excited about going to Caye Caulker now! Would you mind sharing what place offers open dive certification for 250US? I'll be in Belize from 5/17 to 6/1!! Do you have any tips for a first time solo female traveler?
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Wow, I’m ever so excited about going to Caye Caulker now! Would you mind sharing what place offers open dive certification for 250US? I’ll be in Belize from 5/17 to 6/1!! Do you have any tips for a first time solo female traveler?
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Hi Angela,
Welcome to "da Caulker!" The two dive operators that get consistently good reviews are Belize Diving Services (http://www.belizedivingservice.com/) and Frenchie's (http://www.frenchiesdivingbelize.com/courses.htm)... They offer PADI open water certification for $300/$305–slightly up from the $250 I quoted, but well worth it for the quality of service. There are other operators on the island that you can check out once you're here. As far as I know, it's not necessary to make reservations before you come, especially since the high season is dropping off.
As for being a solo female traveler, there are some great resources on Brave New Traveler (http://www.bravenewtraveler.com/2007/11/30/reflec... and Go Budget Travel (http://gobudgettravel.com/travel-myths/travel-myt... Both of those articles offer links for further reading. The simple advice is: be safe, be smart, and have fun!
I'm unfortunately not going to be around by the time you get here–my schedule has changed and I'm leaving Belize this month (so, so sad). But feel free to get in touch if you have any more questions!
Best,
Jenny↵ -
Hi Angela,
Welcome to “da Caulker!” The two dive operators that get consistently good reviews are Belize Diving Services (http://www.belizedivingservice.com/) and Frenchie’s (http://www.frenchiesdivingbelize.com/courses.htm). They offer PADI open water certification for $300/$305–slightly up from the $250 I quoted, but well worth it for the quality of service. There are other operators on the island that you can check out once you’re here. As far as I know, it’s not necessary to make reservations before you come, especially since the high season is dropping off.
As for being a solo female traveler, there are some great resources on Brave New Traveler (http://www.bravenewtraveler.com/2007/11/30/reflections-from-a-female-solo-traveler/) and Go Budget Travel (http://gobudgettravel.com/travel-myths/travel-myth-im-a-lone-female-i-cant-travel-by-myself). Both of those articles offer links for further reading. The simple advice is: be safe, be smart, and have fun!
I’m unfortunately not going to be around by the time you get here–my schedule has changed and I’m leaving Belize this month (so, so sad). But feel free to get in touch if you have any more questions!
Best,
Jenny↵ -
I loved Caye Caulker when I was in Belize. Days by the split snorkeling, good meals, and nice nights at the bar…I forget the name of the bar but whats the one where you climb up the rickety flights of stairs?
Glad you are having a great time there. I loved it there!
Matt
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I loved Caye Caulker when I was in Belize. Days by the split snorkeling, good meals, and nice nights at the bar…I forget the name of the bar but whats the one where you climb up the rickety flights of stairs?
Glad you are having a great time there. I loved it there!
Matt
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Hi Jenny, I was looking for information about Belize and you gave me the best! I'd like to ask you if you can tell me how's the weather there in January. I'm thinking of being there in that month but I don't know if it's warm enough or not. Sorry for my ignorance!
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Hi Jenny- My husband and I are thinking about moving to Caye Caulker for the majority of the winter. We are kiteboarders and want to be somewhere warm and windy and somewhat undiscovered. I would like to be able to work while I am there. Do you think that is feasible? I am a 26 year old American who speaks Spanish and currently sells insurance but would ideally like to start a property management company. I like cleaning and my husband is a contractor so he could help me with the maintenance stuff. What do you think? I would appreciate any advice. Thanks! Lauren
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Hi Raquel–I haven't been in Belize in January, so I can't speak from firsthand experience, but I'm pretty sure it's the dry season for them, so you'll probably get lots of sun and very little rain. Average temps will be between 70F and 80F, so I you should have no problem being warm enough! Lauren–I did meet lots of expats in the property management business in Belize, so it's definitely possible. On the other hand, because it's already popular among expats, it might be tough to carve out your own niche. You would probably also need a different kind of visa; Escape Artist seems to have some pretty good info on the nitty gritties of living in Belize (even if you'll only be there for a season): http://www.escapeartist.com/Live_In_Belize/ Good luck!
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my daughter and future son-in-law are planning to have their wedding in caye caulker this coming summer. they've been there twice, but his mom and i are going with them in january to start making arrangements…any suggestions? (there'll probably be about 20 people attending the ceremony and we'll stay about a week.) (in addition to the wedding, they've talked about planning fishing and shopping excursions.) thanks for your suggestions!
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Hello Karen, I got married in Belize Feb. 08. Gorgeous place! I strongly recommend Seaside Cabanas for comfort and convenience. Also for thier incredible staff. There’s a wedding coordinater there at the hotel – Efrain Serrano – he’s AWESOME. I would not recommend “Sally” the wedding planner. Where ever you stay and whom ever is putting the wedding together I know it will be beautiful!
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