Houston Har Gow

05/17/09  Print This Post Print This Post    5 Comments      Written by Valerie Ng
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Man in Asian foods market

Photo: bloomsberries

Valerie Ng explores a side of Houston where the familiar fallbacks of BBQ and Tex-Mex are strangely absent.

Cruising Houston’s Bellaire Blvd, Adriana and I watched as the English and Spanish of storefront signs gave way to Chinese and Vietnamese.

We pulled into one of the shopping centers lining the street, and found ourselves before an imposing Asian supermarket, wedged between a Halal Chinese restaurant and a Korean tofu and barbecue joint.

***

As the fourth largest city in the U.S., Houston enjoys the diversity of its counterparts around the country. In addition to Latino and African-American populations, the city is home to a growing Asian-American community, who began arriving in the 1870s.

Asian child in car

Photo: Shayan (USA)

An original Chinatown was located on Smith Street, near the present-day Alley Theatre, but the city’s growth prevented the neighborhood from expanding.

Today, 9% of Houston’s 2.2 million are Asian American, roughly twice the national average.

Bellaire Blvd lacks the history of the Chinatowns etched into major cities such as San Francisco and New York. Rather, it resembles San Diego’s Convoy St, lined with young businesses that showcase the area’s Asian heritage.

***

Chinese dumplings in steamer baskets

Photo: KaiChanVong

Making our way past Shanghai- and Szechuan-style eateries, we singled out a dim sum restaurant and joined several parties waiting to be seated. The chatter of Cantonese, Mandarin, and even Tagalog filled the close entry room, with not a Texas drawl to be heard.

Glancing over the menu of porridge, dumplings, and rice noodle rolls, I could already imagine the taste of neatly wrapped, translucent har gow, slippery cheung fun, and crisp, deep-fried sesame balls.

In multicultural Houston, there’s much more to the local cuisine than BBQ and Tex-Mex.

Community Connection:

All you Chinatown aficionados out there, how many of Trips’ 8 most colorful Chinatowns have you visited? Share your answer in the comments!

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About the Author

Matador ID: valerie

Valerie Ng is a freelance writer based in Berkeley, CA. When she's not traveling, she looks for ways to experience foreign culture in her backyard. Her writing has appeared in World Hum, The Travel Channel, The Dallas Morning News, Not For Tourists, and TangoDiva.

5 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Tim Patterson replied on May 17, 2009

    Nice post, Valerie! It’s easy to forget how diverse Houston really is.

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  • Hal Amen replied on May 17, 2009

    Likewise. I grew up traveling to Houston a lot to visit my grandmother. Because it was always family time, I never got to go out and appreciate the city’s diversity. I look forward to exploring it further now that I’m “independent.”

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  • Julie replied on May 17, 2009

    These are my favorite types of travel stories–and travel experiences… the ones where you discover people/communities you might not have expected. Thanks, Valerie!

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  • Kai Chan Vong replied on May 17, 2009

    Thanks for using my photo, hope you found it useful and that it helped add something to your blog post :)

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  • Turner replied on May 17, 2009

    I had no idea Houston was 10% Asian… and I thought Austin was diverse. Well done. What did you write for the Dallas Morning News?

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