Photo: exfordy
Mary Richardson shares firsthand knowledge on hitching around Southern Africa.
A PEACE CORPS VOLUNTEER in Namibia, I lived in a remote village without any kind of mass transport. Bumming rides was integral to my basic mobility. If I wanted to meet up with a friend or visit the hospital, I had to wave down cars.
Necessity aside, hitchhiking contributed some of the most exciting travel experiences I’ve ever had. Over a period of two years, I successfully hitchhiked through Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa, Mozambique, and Malawi. An adventure that still thrills me to this day.
In that time, I had countless fascinating conversations with the most unlikely people — from a Catholic priest doing AIDS work to an African farmer who was an Olympic cyclist.
I also encountered a range of truly unique situations, like the time a driver stopped and placed a hyena roadkill next to me in the backseat. Another day, I rode in a caravan of U.S. Special Forces taking out landmines.
Many travelers may not be looking for those extremes, but why travel if not to challenge one’s comfort zone and be surprised along the way?
Tricks of the trade
Don’t make a fist and stick out your thumb as it’s done in the States.
At this point, you may be thinking I was lucky. And I agree. Hitchhiking is risky. However, applying a strategy makes a tremendous difference in feeling secure on the road. Use these guidelines for effective hitchhiking in Southern Africa:
1. Start by asking for rides among people staying in your hostel or rest house. Other travelers are probably going somewhere interesting, and this approach is your best bet for getting a direct shot to your next destination.
Photo: gbaku
2. If you can’t arrange a lift, stand at gas stations or public rest areas and observe potential rides as they stop. Politely approach people who seem appropriate and ask for a lift. Offer to pay for the transport.
3. If still out of luck, stand on a main road going out of town in the direction you’d like to travel. You’ll be exposed to a high volume of traffic there and can accept or refuse based on your feeling about the driver.
4. To get a driver’s attention, use the African hitchhike gesture of standing with your hand extended, palm down. Don’t make a fist and stick out your thumb as it’s done in the States.
5. Never accept a ride from a truck overloaded with people in the back.
6. Never believe drivers who say they’ll run an errand and come back to get you. It’s tempting to think you’re locked on, but you should continue to look for a ride.
7. Wear jeans and sturdy shoes.
8. Carry a bottle of water, hat, sunscreen, towel or wrap (for extended periods in the sun), book, and sleeping bag. Although I was never in an emergency situation, the sleeping bag gave me a big sense of security. I was always ready to fend for myself in the event I got stranded somewhere.
9. When a driver stops for you, assess the condition of the vehicle and whether the driver seems under the influence. Usually families with children and cars with multiple passengers are a safe bet.
Photo: geoftheref
10. Request to ride for a short distance first. Get a sense of the driver and overall situation. Don’t commit to a long ride with someone until you feel comfortable.
11. Be prepared to entertain the driver and other passengers with conversation. Often that’s the main reason they pick you up.
12. Be prepared to make stops along the way. Sometimes there’s a cousin who needs visiting or a package to drop off. Roll with it and don’t stress about time.
13. Research guesthouses and camping sites along your route in case you get stuck somewhere overnight.
14. Trust your instincts about a situation and bail if necessary. I often asked to get out earlier than anticipated if something felt “off.” Most of the time, I paid the driver some money when I skipped out early. They didn’t take it personally.
15. Finally, trust other people. Given our indoctrination against trusting strangers, this may perhaps be the hardest tip to adopt. But Africans are some of the warmest and most engaging individuals you’ll come across. What’s more, they’re ready to trust you.
Classic African hitchhikes
Hitchhiking through Southern Africa is popular among travelers due to the open spaces and lack of transportation services. Some of the most common routes include:
- Windhoek, Namibia -> Rundu, Namibia -> Livingstone, Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls)
- Windhoek, Namibia -> Sossuslvei, Namibia -> Fish River Canyon, Namibia
- Windhoek, Namibia -> Keetmanshoop, Namibia -> Cape Town, South Africa
- Windhoek, Namibia -> Maun, Botswana -> Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
- Livingstone, Zimbabwe -> Lupane, Botswana -> Bulawayo, Botswana
- Livingstone, Zimbawe -> Lusaka, Zambia -> Chipata, Zambia -> Lilongwe, Malawi
- Harare, Zimbabwe -> Tete Corridor, Mozambique -> Lilongwe, Malawi
Speaking from experience, it is possible to secure a direct lift between countries, especially if you hit up other foreign travelers. But more likely, you’ll have to break up the trip with overnight stops and different drivers.
Finally, for those still worried about roadkill and bizarre individuals, let me assure you of one thing: You will have plenty of mundane hitchhiking experiences too.
Community Connection
Read about another Matador community member’s thumbing experience in Hitchhiking Down-Under.
Have your own story? Share it in the comments.
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11 Comments... join the discussion!
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Loved this piece! This is how I had to get around in mountain areas in Morocco. There simply is no other way sometimes. I remember having a live sheep in the trunk with my bag….
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This is awesome–giving me some seriously itchy feet. Great job, Mary.
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I don’t think I will be in these situations anytime soon, but you do a good job of romanticizing them for me! What a journey, really cool tips. And nothing better then someone who done it all. I am glad you never had to be stranded, what a crazy adventure (not neccessarily bad) situation to be stranded out in Mozambique.
Sounds like a lot of common sense but when you think about it very helpful and securing! Cool Read.↵ -
nice article mary! i’ve only hitch-hiked once, about 800 metres, but i look forward to future experiences with “roadkill and bizarre individuals”
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Nice blog post!! I’m here in East Africa but mostly hanging out in Nairobi.
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This sounds so awesome!! I would love to do this and I’m currently planning on planning to do this. But is it safe to go to Zimbabwe? I really don’t know but I’ve heard Mugabe isn’t too well disposed to white people….
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Thanks for the article! I’m was equally inspiredby this article as I was when I looked at the bottom of the article to see you’re a woman. My roommate has as equally wild dreams of exploring the world but often times says at the beginning of dreaming about these adventures, “But I’m a girl,” and lets that stop her wonderlust. I don’t refuse that fact as a potential danger, but hitchiking around Southern Africa seems like it takes serious guts for someone from another culture. How did you overcome those fears of traveling around a continent like Africa and the fact that you would be presented with dangers because you’re female? Do you have any advice for my friend? Thanks again Mary!
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Author: jack
Comment: This sounds so awesome!! I would love to do this and I’m currently planning on planning to do this. But is it safe to go to Zimbabwe? I really don’t know but I’ve heard Mugabe isn’t too well disposed to white people….
========Mmm, yeah, and we all know of those hick parts in the great USA (West Virginia, Georgia, Arkansas, Tennessee, Texas, et al) where a black person “might” end up in the wrong backwards town and get tied to the back of a pick up truck like James Byrd and dragged until his limbs are torn apart.
This issue in Zimbabwe is that white minorities instituted apartheid back in the 60s/70s and they took/controlled the majority of the best land. So, what do you expect them to do if the system didn’t distribute the wealth fairly????
OTOH, Byrd’s case is pure racism! Please compare apples to apples.
This does not mean I support Mugabe. He’s gone overboard.↵ -
“How did you overcome those fears of traveling around a continent like Africa and the fact that you would be presented with dangers because you’re female? Do you have any advice for my friend?”
=======My best advice is to trust your guts, learn some street smarts which includes knowing how to perceive scenarios. Having the ability to quickly judge personalities comes in handy too. Some people just read BAD NEWS on their faces or in their demeanor. Whenever I go partying (here or in Canada), I always meet lots of interesting peeps and I’m usually invited to a house after party or other kool events which allows me to network even more. But before I even go anywhere, I’m able to judge people based on their demeanor, and also by observing what they DO and don’t do.
For female travelers, try to befriend other female locals as well as couples/families. By all means visit local campuses and hang around Arts & Crafts bazaars where you’ll meet interesting “artsy” free-spirited peeps.
Visit schools (primary, secondary, etc.) and say hello to the administrators and teachers. Who knows, you might be able to give a show and tell presentation about your travel experiences or about what life is like in your neck of the woods. Furthermore, these kids most likely will have interesting parents with lots of connections who might also have some good advice for you on getting from point A to B.Cheers!
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Wonderful post! Always have a taste for adventure!
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