Machu Picchu, Photo by Richard McColl
Richard McColl has trekked the Inca Trail five times. In this guide, he tells you exactly what you need to know.
The fable of an El Dorado shrouded in early morning mists draws hundreds of Patagonia-clad pilgrims of all shapes, sizes and ages to Machu Picchu every day.
The Inca Trail requires crossing summits of 4200m and descending over unequal Incan paving.
Machu Picchu is the most oversubscribed trek in the Andes and for good reason.
You need a little physical conditioning, the right gear, some enthusiastic guides and the warmness of the solidarity of the other hikers, but with preparation and good humor, the trek to Machu Picchu is one of the most rewarding journeys in the world.
Don’t get me wrong, this trek is not all peaches and cream. The Inca Trail requires crossing summits of 4200m and descending over unequal Incan paving. You would be well advised to hit the gym for at least a few weeks before your trip.
What to Expect
Given the popularity of the Inca Trail, a pathway dating back to the 13th century, the Peruvian authorities have come up with novel ways of trying to spread some of the wealth of tourism to the local highland communities.
Put simply, even on the most no-frills tour you will be waited on hand and foot by obliging and friendly Quechua speaking locals who make up the Peruvian government’s solution to rural poverty and unemployment in the Urubamba valley.
Of the 500 locals permitted onto the trail every day, roughly half of these are working. So, should you sign up with one of the plethora of agencies offering the trip you will find that your guides, porters, chef, assistant chef and others all pretty much match the numbers of foreigners in your group.
“Porters” I hear You Say?!
Yes, ever since 2000 it has been made impossible to do the Inca Trail as a solo traveler. Don’t scoff.
After brushing aside the first day and its mild gradients, by halfway through the second day you will be grateful for your coca leaf chewing, sandal clad friend as you see him sprint into the distance ahead of you with your belongings.
As you fall into camp having bettered “Dead Woman’s Pass” at 4200 meters, and see your tent already set up for you with your sleeping bag laid out and you new best friend offering you a hot beverage, you will bless the Peruvian authorities for this most excellent regulation.
Photo by Richard McColl
Getting here and the Cusco
Generally speaking you need to have booked yourself onto the trek at least three months in advance, otherwise unless you are a lucky solo traveler who manages to sneak onto a last minute space, you will be found wanting and be pushed onto an “alternative” trail such as the Salkantay.
Cusco is everything from a party town to a cultural mecca complete with its ayahuasca toting shamans and baroque Spanish colonial churches.
Your next step after dusting off your hiking boots and outdoors equipment and going for a few runs around the block is to secure those flights to Cusco.
You will start in Cusco, ancient capital of the Incan empire, fondly remembered in “The Motorcycle Diaries” movie when a small indigenous guide, Nestor points out to the Che Guevara character the differences in the building capabilities of the Incans and the Spaniards.
Nestor tells Che that one set of stones was built by the Incas, and the other by the Incapaces.
Cusco is everything from a party town to a cultural mecca complete with its ayahuasca toting shamans and baroque Spanish colonial churches.
The town has something for everyone including many camping shops where you can stock up on last minute supplies.
The Trek Itself
Starting at kilometer 82 in the town of Ollantaytambo on the railway line from Cusco you show your passport and entry ticket for the trail and then you are off. This first day consists of a mere 11km with some rises and some falls, but for the most part is eminently manageable.
Passing the Incan levels and ruins at Llactapata gives you a flavor of the delights in store.
Day Two is the most vividly remembered portion of the trek as no one is quick to dismiss the ascent that takes you to 4200m and Warmiwañusca or Dead Woman’s Pass – so called because the silhouette of the valley resembles that of a naked woman lying on her back. (I have hiked the trail five times and only ever made out the nipple).
At the top of the pass, views of one valley herald furthers views of another and it is hard to imagine the stamina and duress of the Inca chaskis (messengers) who ran the trail delivering urgent messages between the Tambos (rest-points). Perhaps at one time they delivered the news of the arrival of the Spanish.
Dead Woman’s Pass, Photo by Richard McColl
Snap your photos, cheer on the others in your team and those about you and then descend rapidly to get out of the whipping cold winds thrown up at this altitude in the Andes and head down into the verdant cornucopia of the cloud forest.
A cold night beckons 600 meters lower in the Pacamayu campsite and undoubtedly an unfriendly morning on Day Three but the worst is clearly over.
Day Three begins with an hour and a half ascent up through to another pass to Sayaqmarka and while your humor might have reached critical levels you can take some solace in that now that you have completed this, you are well on your way to completing the Inca Trail.
Here the trail hugs the outside of the mountain wall and orchids of varying colors lighten your grey mood.
Just past Wiñay Wayna, where the Incas used extreme engineering to place cultivation terraces up a mountain wall and experiment to see which crop would grow best at which altitude, you will finish the third day and meet up with those trekkers only doing the 1 day course.
You will know who the one-day trekkers are, for being clean shaven and perfume scented is a dead giveaway by this point.
Day Four is not a day’s hike in the slightest. It is a study in human behavior prior to a two hour run to make it to Inti Punku or the Sun Gate.
Guides zealously block others from passing their groups, eager hikers arise well before 5.30am when the checkpoint opens to ensure their place at the front and the feeling is nothing short of competitive.
Everyone strives for that award winning photo of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate without any day-trippers spoiling the shot.
But you are here!
Machu Picchu has been reached and any feeling of bitterness with those unhelpful souls ahead of you gives way to a certain euphoria. Head now to the ruins, take your tour and quickly scramble to the top of Wayna Picchu (Young Mountain) for breathtaking views from the other side.
You’ll need to hustle as only 400 people per day are permitted up this steep upright promontory and not only are you competing with your fellow four day veterans but also the one dayers and day-trippers!
Community Connection!
Matador member Lola is trekking the Inca Trail right now!
Other Matador members who have made the journey to Machu Picchu include Lyza, who didn’t sign up in time to trek the main trail but wrote a great blog about her time on the “The Inca Jungle Trail“, and Matador founder Ross, who shares the fruit of his trip in the blog “Quick and Dirty Picks for Peru.”
Matador is a community of passionate travelers. Check out the people of Matador and make your own profile today!
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27 Comments... join the discussion!
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Great article and spot on! Especially about the last day being a study in human behavior
It was the experience of a lifetime!
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One day I hope to do this. Thanks for the advice. I’ll keep this all in mind
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Great article and spot on! Especially about the last day being a study in human behavior
It was the experience of a lifetime!
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I've never tried trekking before but the Inca Trail really is challenging me hehe
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I’ve never tried trekking before but the Inca Trail really is challenging me hehe
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Beautiful photographs!
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Beautiful photographs!
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This is one of my dream hikes. Thanks so much for the great post and photos!
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This is one of my dream hikes. Thanks so much for the great post and photos!
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Quality post.
What stuck in my mind the most was… "Day Four is not a day’s hike in the slightest. It is a study in human behavior " – Oh how true that is. Really made me smile.
What about some links as to the best places to book such a trip with ?↵ -
Totally AWESOME. A real experience.
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thanks for great information. one of my friends just went to do the inca trail last saturday and once he gets back i will have some upto date information. i have been looking to do this trek for a while and i think i will plan it out in january or so. i agree with the author that you need to play it at least 3 months in advance but from my recent experience with the tour agency that i will use is that most permits are already gone upto november (4 months) and i think one should book it at least 6 months in advance.
if anyone is interested in travelling there in the near future and if you are from US or CAN (i'm from NYC) feel free to send me an email – c h i h p i h s t e r (AT) g m a i l (dot) c o m
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Quality post.
What stuck in my mind the most was… “Day Four is not a day’s hike in the slightest. It is a study in human behavior ” – Oh how true that is. Really made me smile.
What about some links as to the best places to book such a trip with ?↵ -
Totally AWESOME. A real experience.
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thanks for great information. one of my friends just went to do the inca trail last saturday and once he gets back i will have some upto date information. i have been looking to do this trek for a while and i think i will plan it out in january or so. i agree with the author that you need to play it at least 3 months in advance but from my recent experience with the tour agency that i will use is that most permits are already gone upto november (4+ months) and i think one should book it at least 6 months in advance.
if anyone is interested in travelling there in the near future and if you are from US or CAN (i’m from NYC) feel free to send me an email – c h i h p i h s t e r (AT) g m a i l (dot) c o m
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Man i see your pictures and it reminds me when i was there. If you have not gone there its a must do. Amazing trip i had.
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This sounds awful, I would have loved to do this but being forced to use porters and racing against fellow trekkers? not my idea of fun!
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I did the Inca Trail in November, and it was amazing.
I concur with exercising beforehand. I don’t hike at all, and we signed up for the 3-day hike. It’s the same length but compressed at breakneck pace in three days. I almost died (half-joking). But I’m sure with a little exercise, it would have been a lot easier.
Definitely, one of the most rewarding things I’ve ever done.
I hope to go back again and try the Salcantay trail to Machu Picchu someday
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excellent advice and info, thanks for sharing.
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I’ve enjoyed reading about all your experiences on the Inca Trail. It sounds like an amazing adventure. We are considering the 4-day hike, but are concerned about just how difficult it will be. We are in our mid-50’s and in excellent health. I work out regularly and run a 5K every once in awhile, so not exactly a couch-potato. My husband does not work out but has always been very active (sailing instructor) and has sworn he will get himself ready with a real training routine. We hiked in Patagonia 2 years ago – but never more than a day at a time, and never at these altitudes. We spent a week in Tibet so we do know how we are at 12,500 ft – we didn’t suffer altitude sickness – but again we were not hiking! So, our question is – do you think we are nuts to try this????
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Hey,
Was reading up on the weather on the Inca trail during November and found that November is the beginning of rains. Can anyone tell me if the rains adversely affect mountain/valley views while on the trail? Is the cloud cover dense and constant enough to block views during end of November?
Thanks!
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Hello,
I’ve just got back from the inca trail, and yes the rains will definatley spoil your time. We went in their ‘winter’ – which is the dry season (May) and were in peru to 28 days and it only rained once (including while in the rain forest) . . and that day was the last day of the inca trail !
Tom
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What companies offer three day hikes?
Thanks very much
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Noll, I don’t know for sure, but I think most companies offer a variety of options–if they do one, they’ll do the other. Plus, if you have a big enough group, you could probably dictate whatever length you wanted.
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