photo by denisema4, creative commons
Jost Van Dyke is the retreat where Virgin Island locals go to relax completely.
Recently, some friends asked me to recommend a Caribbean island getaway that would put them beyond the reach of the cruise ship crowds while keeping them within their modest budget.
They wanted to go somewhere lesser-known, somewhere that wasn’t arduous to reach but felt like light-years from home—a place where they could wash all the woes of the world away with tropical cocktails, plenty of beach time and a dollop of Caribbean culture.
Without hesitation, I told them to go to…
Jost Van Dyke.
Nestled in the Virgin Island archipelago some 1,100 miles southeast of Miami lies the former Dutch pirate haven of Jost Van Dyke (pronounced “yost”), named after the obscure marauder who used it as a base for his illicit activities.
This eight square-mile island in the British territory has volcanic origins and a rugged landscape graced by some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world. The approximately 150 inhabitants take great pride in keeping their island outside the boundaries of time.
As a Virgin islander myself, I can tell you that Jost Van Dyke (JVD) is the place where those of us who have already escaped the rat-race go when we want to escape completely.
Stress Free Zone
photo by denisema4, creative commons
The relaxation capital of the Caribbean is Ivan’s Stress Free Bar at White Bay.
Imagine a mile of soft, plush, white-sandy beach coupled with electric-blue water.
Tall, svelte palms watch over the paradise like loyal sentinels determined to keep any reality spoilers from robbing you of your timelessness; hammocks sway; a tree-swing dangles; waves gently lap the shore–there are bikinis–and no one is behind the bar.
Wait a minute! No one behind the bar? Now, what’s so stress free about that?
No one is behind the bar because at Ivan’s, you make your own drink and record it in a ledger á la the honor system. There’s no chance of getting stressed out because your drink wasn’t strong enough or the barkeep wouldn’t make eye contact.
Ivan’s Stress Free Bar is a one-of-a-kind hangout. The insides are decorated with seashells as wallpaper and photographs of revelers. Live music can break out anytime.
If you are a Kenny Chesney fan, you’ll be interested to know that this is the famous Ivan Kenny sings about in the song, “Somewhere in the Sun”. In fact, Ivan’s Bar is the setting for Kenny’s video, “No Shoes, No Shirt, No Problems”.
Ivan even offers equipped and bare camping sites, as well as cabins. Up the hill, Ivan has a comfortable guesthouse for rent with A/C. He throws a traditional West Indian BBQ on Thursdays only, but meals can be found down the beach within walking distance.
Beyond The Bar
For travelers who don’t want to drink their entire holiday away, JVD offers plenty to do away from the bar. There’s no shortage of snorkeling and SCUBA opportunities, mountain biking, kayaking, hiking, sailing, bone-fishing, and one should not miss a visit to the natural wonder known as the “Bubbly Pool.”
This is a tidal pool with a narrow opening to the sea that catches any big swell and harnesses its energy through the opening to create a million tiny bubbles that tickle the skin in a whirlpool effect.
In addition to activities on JVD, one could easily visit the numerous enchanting islands that make up the US and British Virgin Islands via the convenient ferry network.
There are camping facilities on Jost Van Dyke, Anegada, Tortola, St. John and St. Croix.
Shelter
Various accommodations await at White Bay from bare campsites to luxury villas on the hillsides.
White Bay Campground (Ivan’s)–Equipped campsites for $35.00 ($25.00 in summer); bare Campsites for $15.00; Cabins for $50.00 to $60.00 ($40.00 – $50.00 in summer). All with shared kitchen and rest room facilities.
Vittles
photo by denisema4, creative commons
White Bay has no shortage of eateries. Several places exist to cater to your savory needs from burgers to four-course dinners.
Expect to pay $6-12 for breakfast and lunch and up to $32 for a four-course candlelit dinner at the Sandcastle Hotel. That is, of course, at the extravagant end of the spectrum.
A short taxi ride away ($10) is Foxy’s Tamarind Bar at Great Harbour where you can find a comparable range of plates as described above.
Nocturnal
It is impossible to know which nights will be lively and which ones mellow here. The best bet is to go on a walkabout beneath the stars and beside the waves and look for the lights and listen for the music.
One thing to count on is the above Foxy’s Tamarind Bar which has a crowded dinner rush and a consistent lively atmosphere, often with live music. You will be more than content no matter what you find; just accept the night for what it is.
Diurnal
With a 1,054-foot peak, numerous hidden coves, coral reefs galore, perennial trade winds and clear water, water all around; there is no shortage of activities to help purge the previous night’s indulgences from your pores.
A couple of adventure companies are there to satisfy your need to explore. Sea and Land Adventure Sports—Located in White Bay, this outfit offers a comprehensive selection of bikes, kayaks, boats and the like.
Jost Van Dyke SCUBA and Eco-Adventure Tours—Located in Great Harbour, this outfitter has a fuller list of options and a website that is worth a look.
Getting In and Out
While JVD feels like a world-away, it’s actually rather accessible without incurring great expense. The regional hub of St. Thomas (STT) is one of the cheapest places to fly into in all of the Caribbean.
My friend flew recently from LAX to STT for under $350 R/T with only one stop on Spirit Airlines.
I have seen fares for under $50 each way from Ft. Lauderdale on this airline. I can hook you up with great fares through my website.
Once on STT, you’re only a ferry ride (or two) away from complete escape. There are two ferry terminals on STT: Charlotte Amalie (CA) is a five-minute cab ride from the airport and Red Hook (RH) is about 30-40 minutes.
Pay attention to where your ferry is going from and to; some of the islands have numerous terminals and going to the wrong one can mean a long (and costly!) cab ride to the part you want to access. Here are ferry schedules throughout the US and British Virgin Islands.
A direct ferry goes from RH to JVD and back on Fridays/Saturdays/Sundays. For all other travel days (or if those times don’t work), it is best to go from CA to West End, (WE) Tortola and then transfer to a ferry to JVD.
And that works going the other way, too. Just check out the ferry link above and work it out. A roundtrip ferry ticket to JVD from STT will cost you between $50-$70 plus a $5 departure tax upon leaving JVD. The journey is 45 – 90 minutes depending on transfers and customs.
One More Thing
Both the US and British Virgin Islands use the US Dollar as their official currency and it is important to note that while Americans don’t need passports to travel to the US Virgin Islands, They DO need one to enter the British Islands. No visa required in either case.
For more information, visit www.jostvandyke.com and www.bviwelcome.com
About the Author
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50 Comments... join the discussion!
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Great article! Jost is definitely everything the author said; it is a marvelous get a way from the craziness of the world. It is so remote yet only a 10 minute boat ride from Tortola and the rest of civilization.
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Great Article. Can't wait to visit JVD again.
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Can't wait to go home to tell my girlfriend about this place. We've been searching for such a jewel of a place for our next vacation. Thanks for the tip!
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Nice article. So often when I have traveled to places like Jamaica I have yearned for a bit more seclusion without having to sacrifice the amenities of adventure. Sounds like JVD has it all and at the ultimate – "go at your pace" style.
I'm gonna start saving dollars now. Thanks for the tip Tony.
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With the insight only a Virgin Islands local could have, and with the generosity to reveal (at least some of) their secrets, Mr. Gatti strikes me as masterful guide to this island. Having been to the island myself some time ago, I can attest to the factual accuracy of Mr. Gatti's prose, the eloquence of which reveals a great deal of what one can expect to experience on Jost Van Dyke. Everything spectacular about Jost Van Dyke rings true in this review: the incredible starry nights; the exquisite water; the remote landscapes; and the tiny community of interesting people and places, some of which are indeed so small and local you have to take care not to miss them entirely! I hope to hear of more grand adventures to be had in the world of Mr. Gatti.
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Great article! Inspires me to visit and camp. If anyone knows of a comprehensive caribbean camping guide or resource, please let me know!
Thanks for the tips.
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Great article! Jost is definitely everything the author said; it is a marvelous get a way from the craziness of the world. It is so remote yet only a 10 minute boat ride from Tortola and the rest of civilization.
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Great article, I'll be looking @ Jost Van Dyke for my next vacation getaway!
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Great Article. Can’t wait to visit JVD again.
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Having traveled to JVD for a New Years Eve celebration, this article makes me want to experience the island on a non-holiday visit. I had no idea I missed so much but thanks for bringing up some great memories!
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Can’t wait to go home to tell my girlfriend about this place. We’ve been searching for such a jewel of a place for our next vacation. Thanks for the tip!
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Reading this article took me right back there under a full moon sitting at the stress free bar with friends and cold libations. Everytime you leave that place you try to figure out how quickly you can get back. Great article. See you at Ivans.
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Nice article. So often when I have traveled to places like Jamaica I have yearned for a bit more seclusion without having to sacrifice the amenities of adventure. Sounds like JVD has it all and at the ultimate – “go at your pace” style.
I’m gonna start saving dollars now. Thanks for the tip Tony.
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With the insight only a Virgin Islands local could have, and with the generosity to reveal (at least some of) their secrets, Mr. Gatti strikes me as masterful guide to this island. Having been to the island myself some time ago, I can attest to the factual accuracy of Mr. Gatti’s prose, the eloquence of which reveals a great deal of what one can expect to experience on Jost Van Dyke. Everything spectacular about Jost Van Dyke rings true in this review: the incredible starry nights; the exquisite water; the remote landscapes; and the tiny community of interesting people and places, some of which are indeed so small and local you have to take care not to miss them entirely! I hope to hear of more grand adventures to be had in the world of Mr. Gatti.
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I guess I´ve found my next travel destiny, it sounds unbelieveably tempting, like a poet talking. and who to follow best than the advice of a pirate of the caribbean?
hoping to be there soon, in a bikini, mixing my own mojito.↵ -
Great article, I’ll be looking @ Jost Van Dyke for my next vacation getaway!
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Great article… was planning next years vacation to Mexico – looks like it might change to JVD. BTW you paint a beautiful picture of the island.
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Mr. Gatti thanks for reminding me how wonderful JVD is , I'll be booking my next trip with you sooner than later !
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When Can I Leave? This place sounds like another world. Your vivid description transported me to a lounge chair on the beach. I think I will get myself a drink now up at Ivan's bar. I will now be calling the wife to make my reservation. Thank You Author for bringing this escape to life for this reader. I will stay tuned to Matador for more of your entries. Roberto
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I guess I´ve found my next travel destiny, it sounds unbelieveably tempting, like a poet talking. and who to follow best than the advice of a pirate of the caribbean?
hoping to be there soon, in a bikini, mixing my own mojito.↵ -
Unfortunately, I'm not planning a trip anytime soon; I just stumbled across this page as I surfed the net. (Since I'm not surfing any waves!) However, I am an Alaskan who is still stuck in the SNoW and this portrayal of heaven on earth has warmed me up! If I ever do get outta here you have conviced me that there are some great spots on this earth that I haven't ever heard of….I will definetly keep you bookmarked! Hope to read more reviews and discover what I've been missing!
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Always good to read your writing Mr. Gatti-mon!
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Great article Tony. Nicely written and an inspiration to do that trip to BVI that I keep putting off.
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Mr. Gatti thanks for reminding me how wonderful JVD is , I’ll be booking my next trip with you sooner than later !
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When Can I Leave? This place sounds like another world. Your vivid description transported me to a lounge chair on the beach. I think I will get myself a drink now up at Ivan’s bar. I will now be calling the wife to make my reservation. Thank You Author for bringing this escape to life for this reader. I will stay tuned to Matador for more of your entries. Roberto
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Unfortunately, I’m not planning a trip anytime soon; I just stumbled across this page as I surfed the net. (Since I’m not surfing any waves!) However, I am an Alaskan who is still stuck in the SNoW and this portrayal of heaven on earth has warmed me up! If I ever do get outta here you have conviced me that there are some great spots on this earth that I haven’t ever heard of….I will definetly keep you bookmarked! Hope to read more reviews and discover what I’ve been missing!
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Great article Tony. Nicely written and an inspiration to do that trip to BVI that I keep putting off.
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Lots of great tips Tony. My fiance and I are looking for just that sort of honeymoon, and I think we'll take your advice on Jost as well as a visit to Ivans!
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Lots of great tips Tony. My fiance and I are looking for just that sort of honeymoon, and I think we’ll take your advice on Jost as well as a visit to Ivans!
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Great Article Tony! Makes me wonder how I've stayed away from the islands so long!
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An excellent piece of travel writing, evocative and inviting. I look forward to reading and learning more.
Well done.↵ -
Great Article Tony! Makes me wonder how I’ve stayed away from the islands so long!
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Tony, cannot wait to sail back to jvd with all my cruzan friends!
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An excellent piece of travel writing, evocative and inviting. I look forward to reading and learning more.
Well done.↵ -
I can see myself now relaxing on the beach and listening to Mitch Hedburg on my iPod. Nice artical.
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I can see myself now relaxing on the beach and listening to Mitch Hedburg on my iPod. Nice artical.
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I'm so glad to have happened upon your article. I always thought of Jost Van Dyke as nothing more than Ivan's. I had no idea the island offered so much while remaining quaint. I hope to experience it all for myself soon! Thank you!!
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I’m so glad to have happened upon your article. I always thought of Jost Van Dyke as nothing more than Ivan’s. I had no idea the island offered so much while remaining quaint. I hope to experience it all for myself soon! Thank you!!
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It is very generous of Tony to share this "best kept secret" of the islands. It really is one of the most amazing places I have been as well.
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It is very generous of Tony to share this “best kept secret” of the islands. It really is one of the most amazing places I have been as well.
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Nice Tony, you really brought me back. And I had no idea about the other activities available on Jost now. The photos are fantastic. I'm coming back soon and Jost is on my itinerary. Thanks!
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Nice Tony, you really brought me back. And I had no idea about the other activities available on Jost now. The photos are fantastic. I’m coming back soon and Jost is on my itinerary. Thanks!
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Bubble pool? What bubble pool? I missed it and now I have to go back. See you in 09!
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I have actually seen that Kenny Chesney video and wondered where that place was. Sounds too good to be true.
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You have painted such a wonderful picture of this idyllic island. Nothing sounds better than mixing up my own drinks on a chill caribbean island. Thanks for the authentic writing.
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I could use a little Island Time right now and this appears to be the perfect place.
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