Photo: Lola Akinmade
Let’s face it: Peru hasn’t done much to make Machu Picchu a budget travel destination.
You’ll drop at least a few hundred on a trek along the Inca Trail. Longer routes can run up to four digits a person, if you book with an agency that actually pays their guides and porters well and cares something for the environment.
Or you have the train. For a seat in the lowest class (Backpacker), British-owned PeruRail charges $50 for the three-hour one-way journey from Poroy (Cuzco). If this is sold out—as it often is in the high season—you’ll need to upgrade to Vistadome class for $70.
And that’s just the transportation. Once you get to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town), you’ll be faced with inflated hostel rates and food prices. And finally, the unavoidable 124 soles (~$40) for entry to the site itself.
Photo: foxtwo
All told, you’re looking at around $200/person as a minimum.
Fortunately, within the last couple years a new option has popped up, one that hasn’t yet made it into most guidebooks: Machu Picchu by car.
By avoiding the overpriced train, this route cuts transportation costs by two thirds.
All-inclusive tours are actually a pretty good deal, while diehard budget travelers can go independently to save even more.
The Tour
This relatively new tour is offered by most agencies clustered around the Plaza de Armas and other tourist areas in Cuzco. Just look for the telltale sign: “Machu Picchu by car.” One online agent even seems to specialize in it.
A good pricing rule to remember: the farther from the plaza you wander, the cheaper the prices you’ll find.
I got mine from an agent on Cuesta San Blas (just below the boutique hotel Casa San Blas) for $115.
All-inclusive is the standard:
* hotel pick-up
* bus or van transport to the hydroelectric station outside Santa Teresa
* tickets for the 45-minute train ride from there to Aguas Calientes
* a night’s accommodation in town
* two full meals plus snacks
* entrance to Machu Picchu
* a two-hour guided tour of the site
Lunch on the last day isn’t provided. Neither are tickets for the shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes to the ruins ($7 one way; many people walk).
Even better, for an additional $10 per person you can add an extra night to the tour. This is highly recommended. The standard 2-day/1-night schedule only allows you five hours at the ruins (6am–11am). Stay another night and you’ll get the entire day at the site.
Not only does this give you the opportunity to spend more time climbing Wayna Picchu, visiting the Inca Bridge, and exploring other remote corners of the ruins, but it also enables you to outlast the thick fog that sometimes blows up in the morning.
Destinations
Tour rates higher than those listed above indicate one of two things:
1. You’ll be staying in more luxurious accommodations in Aguas Calientes and your guide will likely speak more intelligible English, or
2. You’re getting ripped off.
Remember, it pays to haggle and shop around.
One final note: as with most budget travel, you’re sacrificing comfort for cost. The bus ride takes 6 hours, the last 2–3 on dirt roads with some rough spots and a couple cliffside sections that’ll make you regret nabbing the window seat.
If prone to motion sickness, pick up a few Gravol tablets at any pharmacy before heading out.
Go Independent
“More savings!” you say.
Most agencies will happily book you the van ride only, for around 85 soles (~$30) round trip, leaving you to figure out the rest on your own.
If you go this route, here’s how to make sure you stick to the savings:
* Don’t take the $8 train from the hydroelectric station to Aguas Calientes. You can easily walk the tracks in an hour and a half (many people do this).
* If possible, bring all your own food. There are no cheap “local haunts” in Aguas Calientes, and most restaurants will tack a “local tax” ranging anywhere from 10 to 20+ percent onto your bill.
* Camp! Instead of blowing $20 or more on a forgettable hostel bed, pitch a tent ($5 per tent, per night) at the little riverside campground just south of the Puente Ruinas bridges. It’s a 15-minute walk from town, but there’s a little store with necessities on-site.
Plus, you have a great view of Machu Picchu up the mountain (no one back in town does), and you’re in a better position to begin the hour-long climb up the Inca stairs in the early morning to snag a front spot in the entrance line.
The polished Manuel Chávez Ballón Site Museum is also nearby (though unfortunately they’ve started charging admission; 21 soles/11 for students).
Remember that you’ll need to buy your entrance ticket to Machu Picchu at the INC office in Aguas Calientes, as they’re not sold at the site itself.
Follow these tips and you could be looking at a grand total of $80 for your Machu Picchu experience.
Community Connection
Some people are against visiting Machu Picchu, no matter how cheap they can do it. Read why in 9 Places to Experience Now Before They Literally Vanish.
The latest edition of Lonely Planet: Peru was published too long ago to have info on the Machu Picchu by car tour. On that note, check out Trips’ 9 Ways to Outdo the Guidebooks in Peru.
Plenty of Matador community blogs cover Machu Picchu, Cuzco, and the surrounding region. Find out what local Peruvian farmers think of PeruRail’s train service in Struck by Strike in Peru. Matador member jgbrandt shares A Short Video on Lima, Cuzco, and the Sacred Valley, and you can also read 5 Things You Should Know about the Typical Sacred Valley Tour out of Cuzco.
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17 Comments... join the discussion!
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Great practical and proved tips, not seen on guidebooks!
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Very helpful (and specific!) advice for a location I’ll be visiting in the near-future. Thanks for the heads-up!
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Great advice for a near-future visitor…A friend of mine did the 2-day car tour and had all good things to say (including the heart-stopping cliffsides) except for one: His tour arrived late, it lasted longer than 2 hours, so he only had an hour or so to explore by himself, which i guess according to anyone who has been there is certainly not enough. The extra day option sounds like the thing to do, I’m going to look into that.
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Glad everyone’s enjoyed this. I just did it myself, so you can consider the info up-to-date!
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Hal-
Fantastic, practical, up-to-the minute information. And hey- I like the idea of non-strenuous hiking (wimp, I know!).
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another money saving option is to take a collectivo from cusco to ollantaytambo (no more than $15), spend the night in olla (a must do for anyone going to peru anyways, by far the highlight of peru for me) for $5pp (i recomonded hostal chaska wasi, the owner is incredible, the hostel more than sufficient, and the view from the roof top hammock the best), and catch the very first train in the morning to MP for $70 RT (537am), spend the day at mp, and take the last train back to olla, spend another $5 on a bed, and enjoy the infinite stars as well as the unbelievable (and cheap!) food
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IT WAS RUBBISH, THE SERVICE WAS abbismle
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I did the 4-day trek. It was several hundred dollars, and definitely not for everyone. On the other hand this is one case where getting there really is half the fun. The nauseating and long bus ride will get you to Machu Picchu. The trail takes you through 4 or 5 other archeological sites, and nothing compares to waking up in the top of the Andes above the clouds. The sense of victory and accomplishment you feel when you reach Machu Picchu on the final day (hours before most of the tour groups) is really something special, and worth every penny if you are able to afford it and physically make the trek.
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Hal,
Thanks for this information. Just wondering what all the rumours are I’ve been hearing about not being able to do Machu Picchu solo anymore? I’ve heard that it is mandatory to use a tour operator now. Are you able to clarify?
Many thanks,
Stephen
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This is great information. I’m just planning my trip starting at Lima. So what is the most economical way to get from Lima to Cuzco?
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i’m far too much of a hippy to even consider going up there by car… the trek is a huge part of the experience. to each his own i suppose.
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