Photo Essay: Cycling Cuba

02/26/10  Print This Post Print This Post    17 Comments   Popular   Written by Carlo Alcos
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In his triumphant return, Trips’ co-editor Carlo Alcos shares some shots from his five week cycling tour of Cuba.

Cuba is bigger than I thought. And five weeks isn’t all that long. Still, with a combination of long distance bus rides and cycling days (105 km was our longest) we managed to get a fairly deep look at the enigmatic and contradictory nation.

It was a challenging country to choose for our first ever cycle tour. We encountered mountainous terrain, pothole-riddled roads, and diesel fume-spewing trucks. But I don’t think there is any other way to really see Cuba.

Disappearing road to Vinales

1. The road disappears on our ride to Viñales in the Pinar del Rio province. Most roads in Cuba are in disrepair; many coastal roads sustain damage from past hurricanes. This is not a country you want to bring your $3000 road bike to.

Mogotes in Vinales

2. Mogotes (limestone protrusions, similar to those in Vietnam’s Halong Bay) in the Viñales valley dominate the landscape.

Resting on the coast

3. Giving the bikes a rest (OK, us too) during the most beautiful stretch of cycling in Cuba — between Manzanillo and Santiago de Cuba on the south coast.

Tandem cyclists on broken road

4. Hurricane Dennis in 2005 left this coastal road the worse for wear. Apparently, no attempts to repair it have been made. At some parts the road simply disappears and turns to dirt; a few collapsed bridges make some crossings a bit sketchy. Here, an Austrian couple on a tandem bike we met and cycled with negotiates the crumbling path.

Cigar rolling in San Diego de los Banos

5. In San Diego de los Baños we were ushered into Pedro’s “workshop” where he showed us how to roll a cigar. He then hustled us to buy a pack of these “homemade” cigars. Even though it was most likely an elaborate scam, the overall experience was almost worth our foregone euros. Almost.

Cienfuegos socialism propaganda

6. Graffitied propaganda lines a wall in Cienfuegos. There is no shortage of this in Cuba.

Church ruins in Trinidad

7. A ruined church facade sits atop a hill in Trinidad. A beautiful spot to watch the sun set over the cobble-stone streets, but is chock full of beggars. These Cubans sitting here asked for coins from our home countries, soap, the clothes off our backs, my wife’s bracelets, and anything else they could think of.

Boy and his dad in Trinidad

8. In Trinidad, a man sits on his door stoop while his son waves to the camera. Door stoop sitting is a common sight everywhere.

Dog behind bars in Trinidad

9. There are bars on all the windows and doors in Trinidad. This pooch was using them to his advantage to catch a cat nap. Or is that dog nap?

Horses in Bayamo

10. We could hear them about 30 seconds before we saw them. As they rounded the corner I took my opportunity to snap a few action photos.

Baseball spectators in Bayamo

11. Baseball is Cuba’s national sport. In Bayamo, these young gentlemen watch the older boys play some fast pitch.

Guitar player in Manzanillo

12. In Manzanillo, a stumbling, drunk, guitar-wielding man steadies himself on a wall while others look on.

Kids on a swing

13. We caught these carefree kids swinging away near the coast. They weren’t camera shy.

Happiest cat in the world

14. The happiest cat in the world? On Cayo Granma in Santiago de Cuba, a local cleans his catch while kitty looks on.

Mojitos in Cuba

15. If you come to Cuba, you WILL have a mojito (or three). This bartender looks particularly pleased with his offering to us.

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Community Connection

Make sure to read Julie Schwietert’s interview with the author of The Handsomest Man in Cuba: An Escapade — the book that kicked off our Cuban adventure — at Freewheeling: Lynette Chiang’s Two Wheel Journey from Cubicle to Cuba.

If you’re planning a trip there — especially if you’re American — read How to Travel To and From Cuba.


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About the Author

Matador ID: vagabonderz

Carlo is a Contributing Editor of Matador Trips, originally hailing from Vancouver, Canada. After a two-year stint in Melbourne, he and his wife are traveling slowly with their Bike Fridays; they don't know when, where, or if the journey will end. Follow him on Twitter and at Vagabonderz.com.

17 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Candice replied on February 26, 2010

    Carlo, I LOVE all these pictures, so much expression! Especially the last one, and the kids swinging…and the cat waiting for fish…and all of them.

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  • Megan Hill replied on February 26, 2010

    Carlo, such beautiful pictures! Looks like a helluva trip!

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  • Paul Sullivan replied on February 26, 2010

    Excellent shots Carlo – working those wide angles nicely. Looks like it was an incredible trip…

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  • Matt Scott replied on February 26, 2010

    Great pics. Must have been a very cool trip, thanks for sharing.

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  • Carlo Alcos replied on February 26, 2010

    Thanks all. Paul, that wide angle seems to be stuck on my camera! I love it.

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  • joshua johnson replied on February 26, 2010

    Amazing Carlo… I am more than a little jealous!!

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  • Marie replied on February 26, 2010

    Great photos, Carlo! The swing one is my favourite, but I love them all. I almost did an Oxfam cycle trip in Cuba many years ago when I was a student but I couldn’t get the funds together to fly from England. It’s so cool to see the cyclist’s perspective so many years later. Oh, what I’ve missed!

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  • Lola replied on February 27, 2010

    Wonderful shots Carlo! I’m totally hooked on wide angle lenses

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  • Julie replied on February 27, 2010

    Carlo-

    I looked at these photos and thought “I’m so grateful he didn’t Photoshop these and make the colors pop.” I hate it when people do that to photos from Cuba.

    I showed Francisco the photos and he said “Tremendas fotos.” He specifically noted that these are “different” from the usual Cuba photos (old cars). We both enjoyed seeing these.

    And now a major Cuba nostalgia attack ensues….

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  • Carlo Alcos replied on February 27, 2010

    Thanks again all, I hear you Julie…the pics are very minimally photoshopped…just a little sharpening and maybe a little brightness adjustment. It was definitely a conscious decision to not use stereotypical shots…although the mojito one is coming close…but I just love the bartender’s expression!

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  • Linda replied on February 27, 2010

    Mmm, mojitos.

    I love that dog!

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  • Adri replied on February 27, 2010

    Great shots Carlo, thank you for sharing! I like #14, wonder how’s the kitty’s face :-)

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    • Carlo Alcos replied to Adri on February 27, 2010

      Just before I snapped the pic he gave the cat some of the fish…I’m sure he was licking his chops. :)

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  • Heather Carreiro replied on March 2, 2010

    Awesome photos – It’s hard to choose a favorite but I just love the man’s expression in #15!

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  • Leighl replied on March 2, 2010

    These are fabulous photos. If forced to choose a favorite, it would be of the kids in action.

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  • Anne replied on March 3, 2010

    These photos are great. I would love to get a drink from that cheery bartender in the last pic.

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  • Nick replied on March 5, 2010

    Welcome back, Carlo! Love these, especially the cat and the carefree kids. Though I think the caption for the cat should read “The most self-disciplined cat in the world.” How could it sit there and just watch… not sure I could! (Though I see from above that she’d already been fed… but even so…)

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