Photo Essay: Peace in the Eyes of Sri Lanka
WITH CONSISTENTLY negative news of protests and the threat of terrorism plaguing Sri Lanka’s capital over the past 25 years, not to mention the 2004 tsunami that hammered the south coast, tourist numbers have been at an all time low. But with the civil war over as of May 2009, and access to the war-torn north increasing, more and more travelers are making the journey.
Sri Lanka’s beaches, tea plantations, and archaeological sites are all good reasons to visit, but it is the gentleness of its people that touched me.
Surfing brings many tourists to Sri Lanka but seems just as popular with the young local population on the south coast around Hikkaduwa and Mirissa. Arugam Bay, on the east coast, is Sri Lanka’s best-known break.
While the beaches may be a tourist playground, for many Sri Lankans they provide a livelihood. This man makes fishing nets using empty coconut shells and rope.
Don’t expect to find a seat on the local buses, but friendly conversation helps pass the hours.
Buddhism is the most prevalent faith in Sri Lanka, at 70% of the population. The Hindu Tamils make up 15%, and Islam and Christianity account for the rest.
With the civil war over as of May 2009, the future of many ethnic Tamils and their role in society is left uncertain.
It is now up to the government to create a stable future for the next generation, and hopefully one without war.
A Tamil lady picking tea flashes a smile despite the tedious manual labour, and often wages far below the country’s minimum.
Sri Lanka has passed Kenya as the world’s second-largest tea exporting nation behind the global leader, India.
Outside of the beach resorts Sri Lanka sees only a trickle of tourists, and a foreigner will always attract attention from local kids excited to converse in English.
Taking the slow train through the lush tea plantations and misty mountains in the hill country is one of the quintessential experiences in Sri Lanka. Without advance reservations, don’t expect a seat.
A Kandyan dancer prepares for an organized show involving drums, costumes, and a fire show. Historically only men participated in this art, but today woman are allowed in most schools across the country.
Fire eating and fire walking are an exciting and intense element of Kandyan cultural performances.
Young monks are found wondering amongst the ruins in Anuradhapura — a popular temple complex located within the country’s “cultural triangle.”
While Sri Lanka’s sites are grand, it’s the warm and genuine people that make this country such a warm place to visit.
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Community Connection
Trips’ 9 Reasons to Visit Sri Lanka in 2009 still apply in the new year.
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20 Comments... join the discussion!
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The more I see and read about Sri Lanka, the more I want to go there. With so many places to choose from, it’s sometimes hard to decide on my next destination. But with a beautiful photo essay like this, it helps narrow it down. I especially like the photo of the kids out the window of the train. Thanks.
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WOW…very impressive work. Love the shot of the woman in the tea field and the kids chasing the train.
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Very cool photo essay!
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Beautiful photo essay. Sri Lanka looks like a wonderful place to visit.
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so nice! love all the smiles
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Thank you for posting. It’s lovely to see all the smiles here. When my husband and I visited in 2002 things were quite tense. You could see the hope in some people’s eyes but not in others, and Sri Lanka is definitely a place that makes you reflect. To see people carrying on with their lives in a situation that many of us can only imagine is humbling. The effects of that trip have lasted within us and we dream of visiting again in these joyful years.
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Good pictures here, but not the “whole pictures” of Sri Lanka.
What about the:
NAZI- CAMPS- RAPES AND KILLING OF INNOCENT PEOPLE?
That is also still a picture of Sri Lanka.
Remember to wipe his eyes when YOU drive past MANNICK FARM and the devastated Tamil areas and orphans.
A large proportion which the government is responsible. A good trip that will have the Sri Lankan government’s coffers to flourish, now that the EU has canceled their trade with them.
Please consider that life is more than a luxury trip.It is a journey which lasts the entire lifetime. Traveling with compassion, heart and good conscience. Or you could choose Sri Lanka, close your eyes and heart of the unpleasant truths and enjoy the holidays.↵ -
Wow, that’s pretty harsh, Peter. And, in my opinion, unjustified. We could have run a photo essay of “the hottest beaches in Sri Lanka” or some such, but Nick and I decided to go with portraits instead, feeling this offered a much more grounded, much more “real” glimpse of the country, even if it is only a glimpse. We’re not advocating luxury vacations to war-torn regions–rather, the aim was to give people a look at a place that doesn’t get a lot of coverage in the mainstream press.
Also, using the term “Nazi” to refer to anything but the German National Socialist party of the 1930s/40s is an instant conversation killer. It totally undermines the rest of your argument.
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Peter-
As Matador’s managing editor, I received Nick’s initial pitch for a photo essay about Sri Lanka. I reviewed many of Nick’s photos and when I passed Nick’s pitch on to Hal, I specifically stated that I was interested in focusing on the people.
None of us at Matador are naive about what’s happening in Sri Lanka. But we choose to tell the stories that are often overlooked, and I think you’ll agree that most stories about Sri Lanka are negative (a fact which we acknowledge in the introduction to this piece). For all of the negative things happening in Sri Lanka, there are positive things happening, too, and it’s important to share them.
I’d like to invite you to contribute your knowledge and opinion more constructively in the future. We’re all for promoting conversation, but when someone launches directly out of the gate with clearly hostile language, it’s obvious that that person isn’t really interested in advancing dialogue, which is a shame. You could have used your knowledge to enlighten other readers. Instead, you used it to distance.
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I know that you probably will not allow my comment, but it is written and no one can take from me.
iT is your choice and your responsibility.↵ -
Response above. We don’t censor at Matador.
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I like your enthusiasm Peter and while I agree with Hal and think harsh comments are unjustified, I can agree with your point that this photo essay does not show the human rights atrocities which have occurred in the country. Most westerners I know already attach those kinds of images to Sri Lanka and my purpose for this piece was to showcase a different side than the news likes to portray.
In your final sentence, it seems as if you are suggesting tourists avoid all travel to Sri Lanka because of what has gone on during the end of the civil war? It hasn’t worked for Myanmar/Burma and if this is true, China among others needs to be avoided as well. The truth is, tourism,especially socially conscious backpackers, put money into the local economy and can sometimes create opportunity for those who have none, whether they be Tamil or Sinhalese. I fail to believe the average Sri Lankan deserves to be penalized for actions of their corrupt government.
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These pictures are absolutely breathtaking! Even though all the Polar Bears and people of the north miss you we are very proud of what you are doing!
Can not wait to see your whole portfolio from your trip!!↵ -
Thanks 4 understanding my view. Sri Lanka is a beautiful country- A paradise with evil snakes.
I remember that the country was described as paradise and the place called Adam’s Peak would be the place Adam took off when he was dismissed from the Garden of Eden.
My wish is not to punish the population. They have suffered enough, but the government is criticized in many respects and they are just waiting for tourists to arrive and the money starts to boom in their pockets, and there after, further to buy more military action and keep the Tamil minority in an iron grip. Western countries can not go to war against Sri Lanka. Their only way of showing discontent is by economic sanctions, but it will have no effect if the tourist economy generates high growth.
Will we go on safari to Daffur?
I know it is tempting to take 14 day trip to Sri Lanka, enjoy the stay and come home. Is there anyone who thinks that they are indirectly responsible to subdue and kill a minority population by doing that? Are there bloods on their hands?
I’m not saying that you should do not take a trip to Sri Lanka, but please do not let your good conscience and heart go on holiday to Sri Lanka.The places reserved for tourism, you can not see what is happening or happened. There are beautiful beaches and palm trees. But it is an unfair and false illusion. Serpent (SL government) lies producing this as real Sri Lanka.I want you people to see the whole picture.
You may well enjoy your holiday there, but do not forget that there are places in Sri Lanka, where people right now are kept locked up like animals, actually worse than animals.Thanks.
Sri Lanka is one of the worst corrupt countries in the world and one of the most dangerous places for journalists to be in, also many human rights are violated and Sri Lanka ,also rank as the top candidate in other negative contexts. I would not attach you with links and another to justify my assertions. But you can “google” on human rights in Sri Lanka and you will get a lot of results. It’s really ugly pictures (Channel 4 – which the Sri Lankan military executes young Tamil men with cynicism and cold blood).
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In response to Mr David:
Do we avoid Russian because of Chechenya, India because of Jammu Kashmir/Gujarat, China because of Kashgar/Tibet, Israel because of Palestine and US/UK because of Guantanamo/Iraq/Afghanistan/Pakistan’s Swat Valley/extraordinary rendition?
All of these countries’ governments (probably Mr David’s as well) have violated, have supported, will continue to violate and will continue to support the violations of human rights.
In Sri Lanka’s case, a very ugly civil war with faults on both sides – e.g. the civillian casualties were magnified by the fact that the rebels used civilians as human shields – has just ended. The end of this war for us Sri Lankans means the promise of prosperity and I think most of us – Tamil, Muslim and Sinhalese – are happy that it is over. For us, it is not the war that concerns us but how far and fast we can grow now that it is over.
You can throw around all kinds of words like Nazi and some people, those who see the world as black and white, often do. For the rest of us, the world and Sri Lanka is kind of gray and we understand that the people you hurt by boycotting tourism aren’t the people who can do anything to change the situation.
They can just drive you around the country, show you some of the sights, give you somewhere to sleep and something to eat. Most tourist operators in Sri Lanka are small and medium entrepreneurs; they pay little to no direct taxes as they barely stay above water most months. I’ve lived and worked here on a rural development project from 2004 on and every hotel I visited last year usually just had one or two rooms occupied.
Taking away their meagre earnings isn’t going to affect the ruling elite nor is it going to effect any change. But, like the fat guy who orders a Big Mac and a Diet Coke, you can continue to delude yourself that your internet tough guy pose has made a difference.
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Awesome photos. It’s hard to pick a favorite, but I think I like the fire eating one best!
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Wow, nice pics. Sri Lanka is becoming the cynosure of South Asia.Some of these beaches are ranked in World’s Best Beaches. Sri Lanka as a holiday destination. There are many beaches in Sri Lanka such as Negombo, Hikkaduwa, Galle, Mount Lavinia, Beruwala, Aluthgama Beach playground, Bentota is a ideally romantic beach for honeymooners, Arugam Bay, Nilaveli beach are sun bathing and water sports hub.http://www.travelasia360.net/aquatic-playground-and-romance-in-sand-sri-lanka-beaches.html
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“Living” a Sri Lankan life and immersing yourself in the community with its strong religious ethos can only be achieved by joining a Sri Lankan community. You may wish to admire from the periphery, dip into the life for 1-3 days or feel a part of it for your entire visit.
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I like build friend ship wrih U. pls write to me.
my name is indika atapattu – sri lanaka.hv a good day
bye.↵
