Photo Essay: The Epic Beauty of the West Coast Trail

07/24/09  Print This Post Print This Post    15 Comments   Popular   Written by Ian MacKenzie
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Prepare to journey the lush, temperate rainforests of Vancouver Island’s mythical trek: the West Coast Trail.

It usually starts out as a boast. Your friend, a drink in hand, will speak of another friend who just returned from the West Coast Trail — a daunting 75km hike along the southern edge of Vancouver Island.

“75km?” you’ll say. “That doesn’t sound too difficult.” To which your friend will reply, “I could totally do it. Easy.”

If you’re like most people, the next time you see your friend you’ll both politely refrain from mentioning the promise again. You’ll think you’re too busy to take 5-7 days to conquer the trail. “Maybe next year,” you’ll think.

But sometimes that promise is kept — as in the case of myself and two other buddies who found ourselves standing on the threshhold of the trail in early July.

We’d just completed our orientiation session, which promised the following: torrential rain, slippery boulders, cougar babies, rickety ladders, cable cars, beaver fever, broken ankles, raging bears, and surging tides.

“You ready?” I ask my friends as we hitch up our bulging packs and steel ourselves to hit the trail.

“Doesn’t matter,” they answer. And we step out onto the beach.

How To Get There

From Vancouver, take a bus or drive to Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. Catch a ferry to Nanaimo and make your way to either Bamfield (northern start) or Port Renfrew (southern start).

Key resources


1. The author sets out on the journey. I wish I could tap this guy on the shoulder and say, “75 km, buddy. Seriously.”

2. Buoys hanging from the trees notify the hikers where to get on and off the beach trail.

3. Sean Aiken snaps a photo of one of the many waterfalls along the coast.

4. At Pachena Lighthouse, a cluster of signs point the distances to various countries around the world.

5. The wreckage of the Varsity, a 1940s fishing vessel, sits rusting in the ocean air.

6. Depending on how close you look, you can find a universe in unexpected places.

7. Sean awaits the ferry at Nitnat Narrows. The crossing is operated by a local First Nations tribe.

8. Sea lions dot the rocks off the coast, barking incessantly. / Photo: Bryan Jackson

9. Along the trail, the constant rain nourishes an innumerable amount of fungi and plantlife.

10. Water doesn’t come easy. All rivers and creeks must be filtered before drinking.

11. If you’re lucky, each night you’ll be greeted with a stunning sunset rarely matched elsewhere. / Photo: Bryan Jackson

12. The author enjoys a campfire and a shot of Fireball whiskey (a crucial addition to any successful wilderness trek).

13. Ben and Sean walk along the rocky shelf at low tide.

14. The stunning beauty of Owen Point resembles a Dr. Seuss storybook.

15. The intrepid hikers pause for a moment of reflection, and a nicely framed photo.

16. Leave nothing but footsteps…take nothing but memories. / Photo: Ben Felch

17. At the end of the trail, our water taxi awaits to whisk us back to the beginning.

Community Connection

Ian isn’t the only Matador editor that’s taken to the trail recently. Over at the Traveler’s Notebook, Josh Johnson shares his experiences day hiking Mt. Rainier in Photo Essay: Day Hike to Camp Muir, Mt. Rainier.

For the lowdown on a different kind of epic trail, check out How To Trek The Inca Trail.


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About the Author

Matador ID: ianmack

Ian MacKenzie is the founder and editor of Brave New Traveler. He is currently editing the One Week Job documentary. Aside from writing, he spends his time exploring the fundamental nature of existence and wishing he did more backpacking.

15 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Eva replied on July 24, 2009

    Great photos, Ian! I’ve been wanting to check out the West Coast Trail for years.

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  • Tim Patterson replied on July 24, 2009

    Gorgeous photos, Ian, looks like an epic trip.

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  • Megan Hill replied on July 24, 2009

    Beautiful photos, Ian. Thanks for sharing your trip with us.

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  • Hal Amen replied on July 24, 2009

    I’d never heard of this hike before, so thanks for the introduction Ian! And in such photo-rific style.

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  • Paul Sullivan replied on July 24, 2009

    Good looking out. Looks like a fantastic hike.

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  • Liv replied on July 24, 2009

    Stunning! Thank you for taking these and for sharing.

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  • Christine replied on July 24, 2009

    Oooh, ooh! I wanna go!

    Is that a pack of cigarettes or a guide book hanging out of your pocket in the water-filter pic, Ian? Hmm, hmm?? ;)
    At first I thought they were Pall Mall’s.

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    • Ian MacKenzie replied to Christine on July 24, 2009

      Ha, no that’s the trail map. I assure you, no cigarettes were consumed by myself on the trip. Whiskey on the other hand…

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  • Carlo Alcos replied on July 24, 2009

    30 years in Vancouver and I never made that hike! Shame on me…and now I just seem to be getting further away from it. Ahhh…one day!

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  • Michelle replied on July 24, 2009

    “Leave nothing but footsteps…take nothing but memories.” LOVE that!

    These are beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

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  • ryan replied on July 25, 2009

    i did this hike in 2003. it was one of the best i’ve ever done. absolutely beautiful place. great photos too.

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  • Rita Weatherbee replied on July 26, 2009

    Enjoyed this photo essay of your hiking adventure. The photos are outstanding. I admire your bravery.

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  • Julien replied on August 14, 2009

    Aaah… these pics bring back good memories :D I did this hike in 2006 and I’ll do it again some time in the future! My friend and I did it during the last possible week in September. Luckily there was sunny weather before we went on the trail and most of all we had only but sunshine during our 5 days on the trail. Plus… we crossed just 15 people during this time. Just perfect :o ))

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  • Andrea Blythe replied on September 3, 2009

    “Depending on how close you look, you can find a universe in unexpected places.” I love that thought, and the picture that goes with it.

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  • bethany replied on September 21, 2009

    very inspiring!

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